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[jdforge]

Apple Mobile Device
Bonjour Service
Google Update Service (gupdate)
Google Update Service (gupdatem)
InstallDriver Table Manager
iPod Service
IviRegMgr
MBAMService
MSCSPTISRV
NSUService
PACSPTISVR
Realtek Audio Service
VAIO Media plus Content Importer
VAIO Media plus Digital Media Server
VAIO Media plus Device Searcher
Sony SPTI Service
VAIO Entertainment TV Device Arbitration
VAIO Event Service
VAIO Power Management
VAIO Content Folder Watcher
VAIO Content Metadata Intelligent Anal
VAIO Content Metadata XML Interface
VAIO Entertainment UPnP Client Adapter
VAIO Entertainment Database Service
XAudioService

And yes when in Safe Mode I cannot access Windows Update to view the history...

 

[clav]

Part of me thinks this could be Windows Update related.

Run the command in cmd (start menu -> cmd -> right click -> run as admin).

Paste this action.

dism.exe /image:c:\ /cleanup-image /revertpendingactions

Reboot.

----------------------

All right. Gotta eat. If that didn't help, then try disabling the third party services via msconfig.

 

[jdforge]

Ill try it!

 

[clav]

Ah. Read my updated post. Derped.

 

[jdforge]

Ok, well 3rd party services disabled, back into normal win7 mode and crashed.

I tried pasting the cmd but I got this error...

Error: 87

The /Image option that is specified points to a running Windows installation. To service the running operating system, use the /Online option. For more information, refer to the help by running DISM.exe /Online /?.

The DISM log file can be found at C:\Windows\Logs\DISM\dism.log

 

[owlbeak]

For fuck's sake...HALP.

Okay, so I have a little Toshiba NB505 netbook, today it locked up during use for the first time. I restarted it, it went into windows startup repair (running Windows 7 Ultimate). It said it couldn't repair the problem. It restarted and went into some sort of recovery thing. It has a little white pulsing bar at the bottom of the screen that says "Setup is starting services" and then a box will pop up titled "Install Windows" with the message "Windows could not finish configuring the system. To attempt to resume configuration, restart the computer".

I restart and it just keeps doing that. I tried booting into various safe modes and restoring to a previous good configuration, it just keeps going to this screen. Ran the windows memory test hoping it would put it out of this loop, memory checks out, but it still boots to this screen.

Was going to try to format/reinstall via a USB drive (no optical drive on this thing) but the BIOS doesn't give me an option to set boot from USB. In the boot selection menu I only have my harddrive and LAN, no FDD or USB. The USB disk I have has been created to boot and works on my desktop machine.

Halp.

 

[clav]

Ok, well 3rd party services disabled, back into normal win7 mode and crashed.

I tried pasting the cmd but I got this error...

Error: 87

The /Image option that is specified points to a running Windows installation. To service the running operating system, use the /Online option. For more information, refer to the help by running DISM.exe /Online /?.

The DISM log file can be found at C:\Windows\Logs\DISM\dism.log

Looks like the error code happened from the original code I gave you.

I originally posted D:\ drive. Use the updated code command that I edited to make it C:\

For fuck's sake...HALP.

Okay, so I have a little Toshiba NB505 netbook, today it locked up during use for the first time. I restarted it, it went into windows startup repair (running Windows 7 Ultimate). It said it couldn't repair the problem. It restarted and went into some sort of recovery thing. It has a little white pulsing bar at the bottom of the screen that says "Setup is starting services" and then a box will pop up titled "Install Windows" with the message "Windows could not finish configuring the system. To attempt to resume configuration, restart the computer".

I restart and it just keeps doing that. I tried booting into various safe modes and restoring to a previous good configuration, it just keeps going to this screen. Ran the windows memory test hoping it would put it out of this loop, memory checks out, but it still boots to this screen.

Was going to try to format/reinstall via a USB drive (no optical drive on this thing) but the BIOS doesn't give me an option to set boot from USB. In the boot selection menu I only have my harddrive and LAN, no FDD or USB. The USB disk I have has been created to boot and works on my desktop machine.

Halp.

Some BIOSes mix the USB hard drives and installed hard drives (PATA/SATA) together. Change the boot order priority in the BIOS and make sure the USB is set ahead of the original hard drive.

 

[owlbeak]

Some BIOSes mix the USB hard drives and installed hard drives (PATA/SATA) together. Change the boot order priority in the BIOS and make sure the USB is set ahead of the original hard drive.

That's what I was trying to say, in the boot selection menu of the BIOS I have 3 options, FDD, HDD, and LAN. I put FDD ahead of HDD but it still doesn't do anything, and when I open the boot menu during startup it only gives me the choice of HDD or LAN.

 

[clav]

That's what I was trying to say, in the boot selection menu of the BIOS I have 3 options, FDD, HDD, and LAN. I put FDD ahead of HDD but it still doesn't do anything, and when I open the boot menu during startup it only gives me the choice of HDD or LAN.

There is usually an option in HDD that expands if it detects any other hard drives connected.

What I'm saying is within the priority boot list is another priority list just for which HDD to boot first. Your USB drive will be listed in HDD not FDD.

edit: Looking into your specific model. Seems like the BIOS hides the boot USB option unless the USB is plugged in and then the computer is powered on.

 

[owlbeak]

There is usually an option in HDD that expands if it detects any other hard drives connected.

What I'm saying is within the priority boot list is another priority list just for which HDD to boot first. Your USB drive will be listed in HDD not FDD.

edit: Looking into your specific model. Seems like the BIOS hides the boot USB option unless the USB is plugged in and then the computer is powered on.

I plugged my USB in and then booted up and get nothing. Works on my desktop machine though. Gahhhh

 

[jdforge]

Looks like the error code happened from the original code I gave you.

I originally posted D:\ drive. Use the updated code command that I edited to make it C:\

I'm using the C:\ and getting the same error...

 

[clav]

I'm using the C:\ and getting the same error...

Ah. The command I gave you is for when a user runs a Windows Recovery disk (e.g. Windows 7 Installation disk).

The flag online must be used for a user who is currently running a Windows section to perform dism actions. Got it.

I suppose the only way to use that original command with the /revertpendingactions flag is to grab a Windows 7 installation disk, which I don't know if you have, and use it under that command prompt line in the repair section.

I plugged my USB in and then booted up and get nothing. Works on my desktop machine though. Gahhhh

If you lived in proximity to me, I would be willing to help you out in my free time.

 

[jdforge]

Argh, man I'm sorry but I've another error

Error: 87

An error occurred while processing the command.
Ensure that the command-line arguments are valid. For more information view the log file

 

[clav]

Argh, man I'm sorry but I've another error

Error: 87

An error occurred while processing the command.
Ensure that the command-line arguments are valid. For more information view the log file

Yeah. You can only use the command when you're in Windows 7 recovery disk or installation disk mode.

Well, the only recovery thing you can do is use:

dism /online /cleanup-image /spsuperseded

All this does is remove your backup PreSP1 files for your existing Windows 7 installation, which is not related to your problem.

You can only use the original command if you have a Windows 7 installation disk as then the Windows session would be in offline mode.

Other than that, I don't know what I can tell you aside from a reinstall. I hate bloatware that exists in these retail computers.

 

[owlbeak]

If you lived in proximity to me, I would be willing to help you out in my free time.

Ha! Well thanks for your advice anyway.

Do you know of any way I can get the damn thing to forget about booting up into that system repair thing? Is there a way to reset the CMOS aside from disassembling the housing to get at the mobo?

Edit: I found that by holding 0 while booting it tries to boot from the recovery partition. Trying to do a factory default restore right now. *fingers crossed*

 

[clav]

Ha! Well thanks for your advice anyway.

Do you know of any way I can get the damn thing to forget about booting up into that system repair thing? Is there a way to reset the CMOS aside from disassembling the housing to get at the mobo?

Edit: I found that by holding 0 while booting it tries to boot from the recovery partition. Trying to do a factory default restore right now. *fingers crossed*

Upgrade to the 1.90 BIOS if you get it back in Windows.

Read that the latest update for your netbook fixes a USB Optical drive boot problem, which perhaps will fix your USB disk boot.

 

[strata8]

I think my hard drive might be dying, but I'm not sure. It's a 500GB Hitachi that came with my HP Envy and although it's been working fine for the entire year, over the past few days, my computer has been freezing up completely with the hard drive emitting a continuous clicking pattern, something like 'tick tick-tick-tick tick *pause* tick tick-tick-tick tick *pause*' (one tick, three quick ticks, one tick, pause, repeat), etc

The thing is, it doesn't happen instantly - only after I log on - so it's almost feels like it's getting stuck at a certain section. Sometimes, putting the computer to sleep fixes it for a few minutes, but usually I'll need to hard reset.

 

[RadioHeadAche]

After my laptop chose death, I started using the family one. I started using the guest account and have been out of habit. Recently, I caught a trojan which installs a rogue antivirus program and blocks access to genuine antivirus software. Here's my problem: I'm trying to access the guest account in safe mode to run a scan using malwarebytes, but I get an error message stating "Windows could not connect to the Sens service."
What can I do to fix this?

 

[Sipowicz]

Hi All

I have a problem with my Dell laptop. It seems to be overheating and switching itself off. This happens when it is placed on a flat service and seems to happen most often when it is running a lot of programs.

I'd imagine it's something like the fan because the bottom of the laptop is getting very hot. Is there anything I can do to confirm this? what else could it be?

guys. a bit of help with this please

 

[Jzero]

guys. a bit of help with this please

if it shuts itself off with out the "shutting down" image it's definitely an overheating problem.
You can download speedfan to check out your temperatures and post a screenshot here.

After my laptop chose death, I started using the family one. I started using the guest account and have been out of habit. Recently, I caught a trojan which installs a rogue antivirus program and blocks access to genuine antivirus software. Here's my problem: I'm trying to access the guest account in safe mode to run a scan using malwarebytes, but I get an error message stating "Windows could not connect to the Sens service."
What can I do to fix this?

you can't go on guest account in safe mode. ask someone if you can use their account, it should detect the virus from their account.

 

[Ken]

Hope this isn't too off topic but:

I picked up the Asus O'Play Live HD Media player and brought it with me for someone. Unfortunately, I forgot the remote so it's unusable. Apparently the Logitech Harmony remotes can be configured to work on them? I've never owned a Harmony remote but if anyone uses one for that Asus media player, could they share which model of the Harmony remote is compatible with the Asus, or are all Harmony remotes compatible with everything.

 

[clav]

guys. a bit of help with this please

A computer has a safety feature that it will shut itself down automatically at a certain temperature.

Most likely your laptop rubber pads got lost from use, so now when the laptop sits, the flat surface the vents required for CPU/GPU heat exhaust.

This was a common problem when Pentium 4 powered and AMD Turion laptops were around.

What you can do is buy a laptop cooler like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYTV/?tag=neogaf0e-20 and put it under the laptop.

Hope this isn't too off topic but:

I picked up the Asus O'Play Live HD Media player and brought it with me for someone. Unfortunately, I forgot the remote so it's unusable. Apparently the Logitech Harmony remotes can be configured to work on them? I've never owned a Harmony remote but if anyone uses one for that Asus media player, could they share which model of the Harmony remote is compatible with the Asus, or are all Harmony remotes compatible with everything.

Seems like the Logitech remote still has yet to support these natively. From a quick search, you have to teach the Logitech remote from an existing O'Play remote the commands.

I think my hard drive might be dying, but I'm not sure. It's a 500GB Hitachi that came with my HP Envy and although it's been working fine for the entire year, over the past few days, my computer has been freezing up completely with the hard drive emitting a continuous clicking pattern, something like 'tick tick-tick-tick tick *pause* tick tick-tick-tick tick *pause*' (one tick, three quick ticks, one tick, pause, repeat), etc

The thing is, it doesn't happen instantly - only after I log on - so it's almost feels like it's getting stuck at a certain section. Sometimes, putting the computer to sleep fixes it for a few minutes, but usually I'll need to hard reset.

Usually clicking is involved with the heads reparking themselves. You could do a chkdsk or download a copy of HD Tune and run an error scan.

 

[Akuun]

Small question, though I'm not sure if it's retarded or not:

Which is better? An internal wireless card (like this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320036) or a USB adapter (like this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320040)?

I have a small gaming rig on the second floor of a house where the wireless access point is on the floor below. I'm currently using a USB wireless adapter for it, and the computer is far enough from the access point that putting the wireless adapter on a USB extension cable so that it is about a few feet closer to the access point noticably improves reception. Would replacing the USB wireless adapter with a wireless card help in this situation?

 

[clav]

Small question, though I'm not sure if it's retarded or not:

Which is better? An internal wireless card (like this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320036) or a USB adapter (like this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320040)?

I have a small gaming rig on the second floor of a house where the wireless access point is on the floor below. I'm currently using a USB wireless adapter for it, and the computer is far enough from the access point that putting the wireless adapter on a USB extension cable so that it is about a few feet closer to the access point noticably improves reception. Would replacing the USB wireless adapter with a wireless card help in this situation?

I would get an Atheros wifi card over a Ralink one. In other words, I would choose the internal PCI card over USB for the two you mentioned.

Better linux driver support and range.

I will note that some Atheros drivers with Windows 7 require updating as the native Windows 7 drivers may not be able to connect to the AP. Usually what I do is bridge a laptop's wifi or other wireless device (or even direct connect) via Ethernet and update the driver through Windows Update. Generally that fixes the problem. Alternatively, you could download the updated driver before installation and just overwrite the new driver with the old one.

If there's another USB stick or card you want to compare, ask.

edit: Oh, it looks like ASUS may have swapped the former Atheros chipsets with RALink ones for the internal PCI Card for the same model. Yuck.

If I were you, I would purchase a TP-Link card as their internal wireless cards so far have all used Atheros chipsets.

 

[Akuun]

Thanks for the reply. I was giving those links as examples, since I wasn't sure if I was using the right names for the two devices. I'm not specifically considering buying that exact card, though I think I am using that exact asus usb adapter at the moment.

Can you give a more general comparison? Is a wireless card better than a usb adapter in terms of reception? My reasoning is that the wireless card should have better reception than a USB adapter because people add an antenna on the card since they don't have to worry about form factor, but I don't know if the antenna makes up for the fact that the usb adapter can be placed physically closer to the access point due to an extension cable (albeit only several feet closer).

I'm not worried about driver installation because we can just do the solutions you suggested. Linux driver support is a lower priority because the computer currently runs windows 7, though I MAY install linux on it for educational purposes (I don't know linux, and this is a spare computer so it's a good place to play around) in the future.

I'll ask you one question though. Why not purchase a wireless n card? There's absolutely no reason to stick to a wireless g one as they aren't really cheaper at all.

I honestly don't know anything about this. What's the difference between wireless n and wireless g? I'm currently wondering if I should buy a card to replace the USB adapter, so if the USB adapter is better then I won't need to buy a card at all, but this is useful information if I decide to go for a card.

 

[Ken]

Seems like the Logitech remote still has yet to support these natively. From a quick search, you have to teach the Logitech remote from an existing O'Play remote the commands.

Usually clicking is involved with the heads reparking themselves. You could do a chkdsk or download a copy of HD Tune and run an error scan.

Thanks. Do you think are there any other options for getting the media player working, maybe through another brand of universal remotes?

 

[clav]

Thanks for the reply. I was giving those links as examples, since I wasn't sure if I was using the right names for the two devices. I'm not specifically considering buying that exact card, though I think I am using that exact asus usb adapter at the moment.

Can you give a more general comparison? Is a wireless card better than a usb adapter in terms of reception? My reasoning is that the wireless card should have better reception than a USB adapter because people add an antenna on the card since they don't have to worry about form factor, but I don't know if the antenna makes up for the fact that the usb adapter can be placed physically closer to the access point due to an extension cable (albeit only several feet closer).

I'm not worried about driver installation because we can just do the solutions you suggested. Linux driver support is a lower priority because the computer currently runs windows 7, though I MAY install linux on it for educational purposes (I don't know linux, and this is a spare computer so it's a good place to play around) in the future.


I honestly don't know anything about this. What's the difference between wireless n and wireless g? I'm currently wondering if I should buy a card to replace the USB adapter, so if the USB adapter is better then I won't need to buy a card at all, but this is useful information if I decide to go for a card.

Wireless cards in general are usually rated by what type of manufacturer chipset it uses.

In general, the wireless performance seems to be like this:

Intel > Atheros > Broadcom > Realtek > RAlink

This is in terms of reception and my personal experience. Some people may rate this differently.

Side note: For laptops, most AMD computers can't use Intel wireless cards due to proprietary code.

Most wireless cards (if not all) you purchase for a desktop will be of the 2.4 GHz band. New portable devices are now using the new 5.0 GHz band.

If I were to purchase a wireless G card, I would rather find it used although I don't know how g the Canada market is for used computer parts.

As I mentioned before, I'm a fan of the TP-Link cards as the internal ones I've seen for desktop use are Atheros-based.

------------

As for USB vs. internal, I can't give you an assessment what is better since I haven't used one myself.

USB is definitely convenient and cheaper. When I was looking for a wireless card, I found that most of them used Realtek cards, which tend to be so-so, and these USB wireless sticks would be priced around $5-$10 USD.

What I've heard about USB wireless cards as they tend to become hot, and I think that could pose a problem for wireless performance.

Thanks. Do you think are there any other options for getting the media player working, maybe through another brand of universal remotes?

I have no idea as the info I relayed to you was what I found briefly from searching.

If a store has a nice return policy, I guess you could try using a Logitech harmony remote.

I haven't heard about the ASUS O'Play until you mentioned it today.

 

[Sipowicz]

if it shuts itself off with out the "shutting down" image it's definitely an overheating problem.
You can download speedfan to check out your temperatures and post a screenshot here.

Laptop running as normal

Laptop with a few youtube videos open on a flat surface

Laptop with a few youtube videos open and some movies running in a media player on a flat surface. it eventually got up to about 94 before i took it off the flat surface

what do you reckon? i thought it might be the fan but i dont know how to check its performance or whether it has a problem

 

[Kaladin]

Since my thread is not even getting a look, and I just saw this, figured I'd re-post my HTPC question here.

I'm thinking of setting up a digital cable tuner card on my PC to make it a full HTPC. The PC set-up is:

Intel Core i7 2.8Ghz
ATI Radeon HD5870
8GB RAM
and I'll be dedicating a 2TB HDD to the DVR.

I have the PC hooked up via HDMI to my tv already for a second monitor, and the PC is already hooked into my sound system so that should be ready to go.

My question is, all I should have to do with this set-up, is get the tuner card, a cablecard, set those up and I should be good to go, right?

Also, I'm looking at getting the Ceton InfiniTV 4 USB card for this. Anyone have experience with this, or the PCIe card?

 

[Slayven]

Got an interesting problem. My computer keeps shutting down and giving me a red light as soon as windows starts loading. I can take the HD out and it will stay on fine, and I tried multiple HDs and the problem stays the same. As soon as a HD starts working hard it just turns off.

 

[Jzero]

Laptop running as normal
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n264/johnny__sack/speedfan1.jpg[/IM]

Laptop with a few youtube videos open on a flat surface
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n264/johnny__sack/speedfan2.jpg[/IM]

Laptop with a few youtube videos open and some movies running in a media player on a flat surface. it eventually got up to about 94 before i took it off the flat surface
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n264/johnny__sack/speedfan3.jpg

what do you reckon? i thought it might be the fan but i dont know how to check its performance or whether it has a problem

Holy shit. it's definitely an overheating problem then. Like mentioned a few post above you should definitely buy a laptop cooler with a couple of fans built in or one with a huge fan like this one. you could try cleaning the fan but you would have to crack your laptop open.

 

[clav]

Laptop running as normal
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n264/johnny__sack/speedfan1.jpg

Laptop with a few youtube videos open on a flat surface
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n264/johnny__sack/speedfan2.jpg

Laptop with a few youtube videos open and some movies running in a media player on a flat surface. it eventually got up to about 94 before i took it off the flat surface
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n264/johnny__sack/speedfan3.jpg

what do you reckon? i thought it might be the fan but i dont know how to check its performance or whether it has a problem

As Jzero said, wow.

You know those temperatures are in Celsius?

Is the laptop fan broken?

Either that the thermal paste worn out.

Since my thread is not even getting a look, and I just saw this, figured I'd re-post my HTPC question here.

I'm thinking of setting up a digital cable tuner card on my PC to make it a full HTPC. The PC set-up is:

Intel Core i7 2.8Ghz
ATI Radeon HD5870
8GB RAM
and I'll be dedicating a 2TB HDD to the DVR.

I have the PC hooked up via HDMI to my tv already for a second monitor, and the PC is already hooked into my sound system so that should be ready to go.

My question is, all I should have to do with this set-up, is get the tuner card, a cablecard, set those up and I should be good to go, right?

Also, I'm looking at getting the Ceton InfiniTV 4 USB card for this. Anyone have experience with this, or the PCIe card?

Should be fine. I don't have any experience with tuner cards aside from OTA ATSC signals.

You plan to use Windows Media Center to record?

Got an interesting problem. My computer keeps shutting down and giving me a red light as soon as windows starts loading. I can take the HD out and it will stay on fine, and I tried multiple HDs and the problem stays the same. As soon as a HD starts working hard it just turns off.

What's the mobo on your computer? Could be BIOS related.

 

[Sipowicz]

Holy shit. it's definitely an overheating problem then. Like mentioned a few post above you should definitely buy a laptop cooler with a couple of fans built in or one with a huge fan like this one. you could try cleaning the fan but you would have to crack your laptop open.

As Jzero said, wow.

You know those temperatures are in Celsius?

Is the laptop fan broken?

Either that the thermal paste worn out.

I'd imagine the laptop fan is broken. When i put my hand underneath the laptop I can feel i tiny bit of air coming out of the fan (which seems pretty small anyway). this is not matter how hot it gets although it does seem to make a little more noise when it's very hot.

would you guys reccomentd cracking the laptop open and taking a look at the fan? I can have a look at the thermal paste as well

 

[Jzero]

I'd imagine the laptop fan is broken. When i put my hand underneath the laptop I can feel i tiny bit of air coming out of the fan (which seems pretty small anyway). this is not matter how hot it gets although it does seem to make a little more noise when it's very hot.

would you guys reccomentd cracking the laptop open and taking a look at the fan? I can have a look at the thermal paste as well

of course, if you're not scared that you'll break it then do it. Check your fan for a build up of dust and if there is just clean it up. and it is likely that your thermal paste is dry if your laptop is a little old. I would still get the cooler though.

 

[Shiloa]

I've got a little question. Yesterday a friend's PC died, didn't want to boot at all. Eventually I sorted it out by changing the slot a stick of RAM was in. It works fine now but I was wondering why this was causing it to not even load the BIOS?

 

[Jzero]

I've got a little question. Yesterday a friend's PC died, didn't want to boot at all. Eventually I sorted it out by changing the slot a stick of RAM was in. It works fine now but I was wondering why this was causing it to not even load the BIOS?

The computer needs ram to post and if it has faulty ram it's obviously going to have problems

 

[Shiloa]

The computer needs ram to post and if it has faulty ram it's obviously going to have problems

No, RAM is fine. All I did was move it.

 

[mysticwhip]

OK I got a big problem
After upgrading to windows 7 the battery life on my netbook decreased from about 2 hrs(100%) to 40 minutes(100%).
Googled it and it seems to be a big problem, any help guys?

 

[Slayven]

What's the mobo on your computer? Could be BIOS related.

How do I check the mobo? It's like 5 years old.

 

[Futureman]

Is there a way to turn off window animations in Windows 7?

They just forced us to use this Windows 7 Light Theme at work, and now whenver you minimize or maximize a window, it lags and flashes as the window animates.

edit: found the answer if anyone is interested:

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...-windows/34766898-5abd-4f42-aa2a-c15dbdf08856

 

[mysticwhip]

OK I got a big problem
After upgrading to windows 7 the battery life on my netbook decreased from about 2 hrs(100%) to 40 minutes(100%).
Googled it and it seems to be a big problem, any help guys?

?

 

[Link1110]

I just had a windows 7 pc die and now the hard drive is in an enclosure. I just tried going to the my documents folder, and it says it needs an administrator password to access it from another PC. I'm not at home, so I c an't even attempt that now, but when I ghet home and plugf this thing into my XP computer, is this hjard drive going to work, or is there something else I have to do?

Also related, I had downloaded windows 7 and office 2007 from the official microsoft student proghram, but now I've lost the activation keys for them (but have the backup discs.) Is there any way to get those activation keps off this drive short of throwing it in another computer and booting it up? I also don't have my Hotmail ID or password that I used to login, so there's no other way to get them.

 

[cartoon_soldier]

While I am playing SWTOR, my GPU runs at 70-74C and making a lot of noise it seems.

The thing is the game runs great, I am getting 60-100FPS.

Any way to get the temperature under more control/reduce noise?

 

[clav]

While I am playing SWTOR, my GPU runs at 70-74C and making a lot of noise it seems.

The thing is the game runs great, I am getting 60-100FPS.

Any way to get the temperature under more control/reduce noise?

Install an aftermarket cooler with new thermal paste. What card is it?

Also, do you have space underneath the card to install a bigger cooler?

I just had a windows 7 pc die and now the hard drive is in an enclosure. I just tried going to the my documents folder, and it says it needs an administrator password to access it from another PC. I'm not at home, so I c an't even attempt that now, but when I ghet home and plugf this thing into my XP computer, is this hjard drive going to work, or is there something else I have to do?

Also related, I had downloaded windows 7 and office 2007 from the official microsoft student proghram, but now I've lost the activation keys for them (but have the backup discs.) Is there any way to get those activation keps off this drive short of throwing it in another computer and booting it up? I also don't have my Hotmail ID or password that I used to login, so there's no other way to get them.

It should work assuming the hard drive isn't mechanically dead.

------

No. You have the responsibility to keep those keys.

How do I check the mobo? It's like 5 years old.

What computer is it? Did you build it yourself or did you buy it from a computer manufacturer?

OK I got a big problem
After upgrading to windows 7 the battery life on my netbook decreased from about 2 hrs(100%) to 40 minutes(100%).
Googled it and it seems to be a big problem, any help guys?

Probably Aero is eating GPU power. You can disable Aero by using Windows 7 Basic or Classic themes.

On newer computers, GPUs are better designed to handle Aero using lower power.

I've got a little question. Yesterday a friend's PC died, didn't want to boot at all. Eventually I sorted it out by changing the slot a stick of RAM was in. It works fine now but I was wondering why this was causing it to not even load the BIOS?

I would test the RAM using the built-in Windows Vista/7 tool called "Windows Memory Diagnostic."

 

[Grimm Fandango]

My internet speed on my desktop has been really shitty these past few days. I've compared speedtest.net results with my iPhone and it's definitely my computer, not my internet. I've restarted the modem and router several times, full scan with MSE twice, used CCleaner, used a restore point and tried to update the wireless card (there was none).

Anything else I can do? Maybe get a dedicated spyware program?

 

[clav]

My internet speed on my desktop has been really shitty these past few days. I've compared speedtest.net results with my iPhone and it's definitely my computer, not my internet. I've restarted the modem and router several times, full scan with MSE twice, used CCleaner, used a restore point and tried to update the wireless card (there was none).

Anything else I can do? Maybe get a dedicated spyware program?

Your wireless card sucks unless you've tried testing this under a Linux Live distro like Ubuntu.

What kind of wireless card is it and what kind of router do you have?

If you can, try the same test over Ethernet to confirm that the wireless card is the culprit.

Also, speedtest.net runs best under Internet Explorer for some odd reasons.

 

[cartoon_soldier]

Install an aftermarket cooler with new thermal paste. What card is it?

Also, do you have space underneath the card to install a bigger cooler?

Its an EVGA Nvidia GTX 460

There is space under the card, so I should look into replacing the cooler or thermal paste? Damn, I am never good at these things. lol.

 

[Grimm Fandango]

Your wireless card sucks unless you've tried testing this under a Linux Live distro like Ubuntu.

What kind of wireless card is it and what kind of router do you have?

If you can, try the same test over Ethernet to confirm that the wireless card is the culprit.

Also, speedtest.net runs best under Internet Explorer for some odd reasons.

Hm the weirdest thing just happened; I tried speedtest in IE and it seemed to fix my issue... so confused. Thanks.

 

[mysticwhip]

Install an aftermarket cooler with new thermal paste.



Probably Aero is eating GPU power. You can disable Aero by using Windows 7 Basic or Classic themes.

On newer computers, GPUs are better designed to handle Aero using lower power.

Would I see an immediate change after switching aero off or would i have to restart and let it charge?

 

[The Albatross]

Bummed. New MacBook Pro, dual booting for work. So Ive got my work user account on here that syncs with all of my network drives at work and so on, which wasn't a problem at all on my previous MBP... This one came with 10.6.8 so I decided to upgrade to 10.7.2 mostly because I was having WiFi problems -- disconnecting every 20 minutes at home -- and so I upgraded, bought Lion, and installed.

Upon trying to get into Lion, and login with my user account, I enter the PW... It then immediately asks me to change my password. Which is weird. But w/e. So I go to change it, figuring, maybe it's some security setting in Lion. Well, nope, no matter what I enter, Lion "shakes" it and doesn't let me progress, acting as if my "new" password is somehow wrong. It's likely related to my username control for logging into my work system, but it's really bad and a pain in the ass. I can get in as the computer's admin, but not as MY account on the machine, it's a shame.

I'd like to go back to Snow Leopard, but now I read that is not possible. What a drag.