By paint I mean ms paint. I'm looking for a mobile like version.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
By paint I mean ms paint. I'm looking for a mobile like version.
There's a program that basically installs tons of essential programs including drivers and good freeware apps, but I can't remember the fucking name.
It's really useful for getting set up with the necessities on a new computer. Anybody know what I'm talking about?
edit: Derp, found it right after I posted. It was Ninite.
It's really useful for getting set up with the necessities on a new computer. Anybody know what I'm talking about?
edit: Derp, found it right after I posted. It was Ninite.
Has anyone run into the issue of text in Windows 7 suddenly becoming small? I was playing around with DPI and decided to revert back to default settings. Now, I'm running into the issue of menu text being tiny. When I try larger DPI settings, menu text seems to revert back to default settings. It's almost as if parts of the UI have become out of sync. I'm about to do a repair install, but if anyone has a simpler solution...
I've got a problem with the DVD drive in my MacBook Pro (the drive is a piece of shit).
Anyways, I need to reinstall Windows and I can't because the disc won't read the disc (it spits it out when the computer reboots).
I have an external DVD drive and I have rEFlt installed, but when I hit the option to run the windows install off of the external DVD drive, it bypasses it and loads Windows.
This is really pissing me off.
If I can't get it to install off of a USB DVD drive or a flash drive, anyone know how much a replacement DVD drive runs for a MacBook Pro. I believe its a Santa Rosa MBP, I bought it in late 2007. Its got a 2.2ghz Intel Core 2 Duo in it.
Anyways, I need to reinstall Windows and I can't because the disc won't read the disc (it spits it out when the computer reboots).
I have an external DVD drive and I have rEFlt installed, but when I hit the option to run the windows install off of the external DVD drive, it bypasses it and loads Windows.
This is really pissing me off.
If I can't get it to install off of a USB DVD drive or a flash drive, anyone know how much a replacement DVD drive runs for a MacBook Pro. I believe its a Santa Rosa MBP, I bought it in late 2007. Its got a 2.2ghz Intel Core 2 Duo in it.
Okay, so I have a Toshiba Satellite L455D-S5976.
It seems like now, whenever I start it up, it will be fine until a couple dozen minutes in, when I start to hear the HDD get louder and louder, and then the PC's performance will drop, until the sound is really loud and the computer is almost completely unresponsive.
Am I going to need a new HDD, clean my current HDD, or what? What are the risks I should know before I open this thing up? I'm not really hardware savvy at all, so any help is appreciated.
I'm really bummed out, because I've only had this computer for a little over a year, and I'm currently in college, and not making money, but I need a PC....I feel like I'm screwed ):
I appreciate any help from GAF...thanks for reading.
It seems like now, whenever I start it up, it will be fine until a couple dozen minutes in, when I start to hear the HDD get louder and louder, and then the PC's performance will drop, until the sound is really loud and the computer is almost completely unresponsive.
Am I going to need a new HDD, clean my current HDD, or what? What are the risks I should know before I open this thing up? I'm not really hardware savvy at all, so any help is appreciated.
I'm really bummed out, because I've only had this computer for a little over a year, and I'm currently in college, and not making money, but I need a PC....I feel like I'm screwed ):
I appreciate any help from GAF...thanks for reading.
Reposting from the PC building thread:
Is there a program to test the health of SSDs out there? Last morning I tried turning on my PC but was greeted with a screen saying "Error loading operating system". I've never seen an error screen like that before and I have no idea if it's due to failing hardware or what. I installed Windows on an old HDD now and I tried plugging the SSD into an external SATA port but I can't access the drive and it says it needs to be formatted.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. The drive is a 120 GB Intel 510 SSD if that makes any difference.
Is there a program to test the health of SSDs out there? Last morning I tried turning on my PC but was greeted with a screen saying "Error loading operating system". I've never seen an error screen like that before and I have no idea if it's due to failing hardware or what. I installed Windows on an old HDD now and I tried plugging the SSD into an external SATA port but I can't access the drive and it says it needs to be formatted.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. The drive is a 120 GB Intel 510 SSD if that makes any difference.
So of course, I finally get into Neogaf, then I become a full member, and of course my main (and really only) laptop is dead.
What happens is that it will boot, ask me to Enter Windows repair mode or Start Windows as normal. If I start normally, it kicks me back to the previous screen with the two choices I listed. If I choose repair mode, it loads up, then kicks me to a black screen with a mouse cursor. Then nothing loads.
I've tried messing with everything from the Bios to safe mode, tried calling up Toshiba, nothing worked. Guess I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new HDD...and a copy of Windows 7, since mine came pre-installed...all this happening at a tome where money is tight. Ugh.
What happens is that it will boot, ask me to Enter Windows repair mode or Start Windows as normal. If I start normally, it kicks me back to the previous screen with the two choices I listed. If I choose repair mode, it loads up, then kicks me to a black screen with a mouse cursor. Then nothing loads.
I've tried messing with everything from the Bios to safe mode, tried calling up Toshiba, nothing worked. Guess I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new HDD...and a copy of Windows 7, since mine came pre-installed...all this happening at a tome where money is tight. Ugh.
ChoklitReign
Member
I just wasted 3 hours with a hard drive backup. Here's the situation: I want to sync my music and pictures on my laptop, with a broken screen that makes it unusable without hooking it up to a monitor, to my desktop. I ran W7 backup and connect the external HDD to my desktop, click on restore files, tell it to restore them in my *name* folder, and it does...except it shits ALL 70,000+ in the fucking spot without any folders!! What the flying fuck? Now I have to delete all that garbage.
What the fuck happened? Is it because I use two differently named folders? Should I have restored them somewhere else? Help me out: what's the best way to restore a ton of files the way they are on one computer onto another?
What the fuck happened? Is it because I use two differently named folders? Should I have restored them somewhere else? Help me out: what's the best way to restore a ton of files the way they are on one computer onto another?
Repisted from the stupid questions thread
I don't know what else to do but re-reset this router again. My Brother only gets a LAN connection to the Internet. I've tried unplugging the router, modem, a bunch of network tests. Also, it works fine if he is tethered to the router of which he doesn't want to be. Any ideas?
I don't know what else to do but re-reset this router again. My Brother only gets a LAN connection to the Internet. I've tried unplugging the router, modem, a bunch of network tests. Also, it works fine if he is tethered to the router of which he doesn't want to be. Any ideas?
Nemesis_
Member
Another problem! 
Basically my Firefox randomly started displaying websites without the CSS - so the content would be there but it wouldn't be organised and would be displayed in the system default font. After clearing my cache and "hard" refreshing the pages, this problem disappeared.
However, some websites now display like this and even a refresh and reinstall of my browser won't seem to fix the problem
Click to enlarge
Any ideas Tech Support GAF?
Basically my Firefox randomly started displaying websites without the CSS - so the content would be there but it wouldn't be organised and would be displayed in the system default font. After clearing my cache and "hard" refreshing the pages, this problem disappeared.
However, some websites now display like this and even a refresh and reinstall of my browser won't seem to fix the problem
Click to enlarge
Any ideas Tech Support GAF?
Any recommendations for a hardware firewall that I can use to filter access to one computer on a LAN? Price isn't that much of a factor since it's for work and they'll be happy to pay more for something that works well.
Basically, we have one computer that houses the database for our billing software that is on a completely internal network. We are switching to a web-based version of that software, so that computer will have to get plugged into the internet. The president of the company is EXTREMELY paranoid about security. I want to be able to filter access on just that one computer so that the only internet traffic going in or out of it is to the remote server that will be accessing that database.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Basically, we have one computer that houses the database for our billing software that is on a completely internal network. We are switching to a web-based version of that software, so that computer will have to get plugged into the internet. The president of the company is EXTREMELY paranoid about security. I want to be able to filter access on just that one computer so that the only internet traffic going in or out of it is to the remote server that will be accessing that database.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Sonicwall makes good boxes.
WanderingWind
Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
Well, I got an interesting one. Whenever I open a file or browser my screen flashes black for a second. Every time. Kinda weird, right?
Any clues as to what that might be indicative of?
Any clues as to what that might be indicative of?
Solideliquid
Member
I was thinking of using boot camp on my mid2010 27 inch iMac. Mostly for games, but I need to invest in a full version of Windows 7.
Before I spend the cash, I wanted to ask if newer pc games like Rage can run well on my setup?
Before I spend the cash, I wanted to ask if newer pc games like Rage can run well on my setup?
Windows 7? UAC perhaps?
close to the edge
Member
Hi!
I recently got myself a new microphone (Logitech USB Desktop Microphone). I plugged it in, worked just fine. A few hours later, my mouse and keyboard stopped working (keyboard would flash all 3 lights in random intervals and not respond to user inputs, mouse just didn't move), the USB sound card still worked, but made a sort of cracking sound every few seconds. (same interval as the blinking lights on the keyboard) I then plugged my microphone into a different USB port and same thing happened after a few hours. I then completely unplugged the microphone (!) and it still happened. What the fuck? I googled but found nothing. I just completely uninstalled the drivers but obviously that's not really a great solution as I still want to be able to use it. Any ideas?
I recently got myself a new microphone (Logitech USB Desktop Microphone). I plugged it in, worked just fine. A few hours later, my mouse and keyboard stopped working (keyboard would flash all 3 lights in random intervals and not respond to user inputs, mouse just didn't move), the USB sound card still worked, but made a sort of cracking sound every few seconds. (same interval as the blinking lights on the keyboard) I then plugged my microphone into a different USB port and same thing happened after a few hours. I then completely unplugged the microphone (!) and it still happened. What the fuck? I googled but found nothing. I just completely uninstalled the drivers but obviously that's not really a great solution as I still want to be able to use it. Any ideas?
close to the edge
Member
Windows 8 has no beta version yet, there is only a developer preview version, which is for developers to get a small view of what's to come. Not at all recommended for day to day use.
Linux has become really easy to use. Ubuntu is a great place to start. There's a few caveats: PC games (especially new ones) will often not work. A lot of normal Windows software will work in an emulator though.
WanderingWind
Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
It is Win 7, but I disabled UAC immediately.
RadioHeadAche
Member
Yesterday while browsing the Regular Show wiki looking for a particular gif, I inexplicably got redirected to a strange site. It was really sketchy because all it mentioned was a "Xvid" (or something) codec and a suspicious link to downloading hd videos. Anyway, as soon as I got redirected, it started downloading something without my consent. I was browsing using Google Chrome at the time and the file seemed to be an executable. Chrome then mentioned that such files could be harmful and asked if I wanted to keep or discard it. I hit discard and got out immediately. I ran AVG and I'm running Malwarebytes at the moment. AVG found nothing, nor did any threat warnings appear while on that site.
If I clicked discard, is it possible that whatever was being downloaded is still on my computer, or did Chrome cancel/delete it?
If I clicked discard, is it possible that whatever was being downloaded is still on my computer, or did Chrome cancel/delete it?
Bought a new desktop on Tuesday, every time it boots, the network connection takes ages to connect to the internet. It's connected through cable and is powered by a "Realtek PCIe GBE family Controller" according to the device manager properties.
Basically the computer boots and the network tries to connect but fails for about 5 - 10 minutes and finally connects without a problem. The cable works perfect on my notebook and older desktop, plug it in and it works on the spot.
Any advice? (I tried to update the driver software but it says I'm running the latest driver.)
Basically the computer boots and the network tries to connect but fails for about 5 - 10 minutes and finally connects without a problem. The cable works perfect on my notebook and older desktop, plug it in and it works on the spot.
Any advice? (I tried to update the driver software but it says I'm running the latest driver.)
Is it a laptop? Sounds like it could be some weird faulty behavior of trying to switch to dedicated graphics.
Does anyone in here have any experience with HDDErase?
I'm following this guide: http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?74093-How-to-use-HDDErase but when I get to this screen:
I don't get have the P0 P1 etc. list or anything else beneath it for me. It's just all blank.
Does anyone know why that is?
I'm following this guide: http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?74093-How-to-use-HDDErase but when I get to this screen:
I don't get have the P0 P1 etc. list or anything else beneath it for me. It's just all blank.
Does anyone know why that is?
tanooki141
Member
Hey Gaf, I've got a problem, I have a 2011 MacBook and a 2009 iMac.
We have wireless internet and are getting faster speeds on our iPods than the computers, the internet works fine at times and then will come to halt the next. Any idea what kind of problem this is?
I'll provide other information if its needed, any help would be greatly appreciated.
We have wireless internet and are getting faster speeds on our iPods than the computers, the internet works fine at times and then will come to halt the next. Any idea what kind of problem this is?
I'll provide other information if its needed, any help would be greatly appreciated.
RadioHeadAche
Member
Well, I was just browsing Best Buy.com and somehow got redirected to that fucking site, but this time it had a different url. It downloaded the "xvid" codec again, but Chrome didn't ask me if I wanted to discard it. I had a separate window open asking if I wanted to save it, but I chose cancel instead. I'm currently using the latest version of Chrome.
Has anyone else experienced this?
I'm trying to edit something in Chrome, but am unsure how. I want my default search engine to take me directly to the website I'm typing and not to the google page.
Exaple: When I type 'imdb avatar' in my adressbar I want it automatically to go the IMDb page of avatar and not here. Same for when I type 'neogaf', 'youtube' etc.
I assume I need to edit my search engine somehow, but don't know to what.
Exaple: When I type 'imdb avatar' in my adressbar I want it automatically to go the IMDb page of avatar and not here. Same for when I type 'neogaf', 'youtube' etc.
I assume I need to edit my search engine somehow, but don't know to what.
K so earlier I mentioned my computer was blue screening. I sent it in to a place to get it diagnosed, and they say my Windows 7 got compromised. They are saying $90 to fix it, but I was wondering if there was an easier way to do it. Obviously, without resorting to piracy, but I don't have a Windows 7 disk so I might be forced to bite the bullet.
The disc is just one piece (the easy piece). If you have your valid product key, you can use the appropriate installation version to reinstall the system.
Fallout-NL
Member
Yeah, fixing the problem usually involves formatting everything so that you're left with a nice - clean - blank slate. Just back up the data you want to keep.
Get a USB to SATA adapter, pull the drive from old machine, hook to laptop via adapter and see if you can salvage data that way.
With any luck, it's not corrupt and you can copy to laptop.
That might be worth getting, as I have another (much much older) laptop laying around that won't start up anymore.
Thanks! I'll start looking for someone who has a Windows 7 disk. I probably can't dl one from microsoft.com right?
EDIT - Funny thing to note, the repair shop I went to was asking for $40 to back-up my information, but they sell a USB to SATA adapter for $25.
theignoramus
Member
Gaf, i have an Asus gtx 580 1.5GB and a i7-2600 processor and I'm buying another 580, since a 580 sli kicks the shit out of basically everything, including a single 590. so my question is, do I need to buy the same 1.5 GB model (EVGA or ASUS,does it matter?) for SLI or can I put a GTX580 3GB in sli with a 1.5GB 580?
I'd suggest waiting 3 months for the new nVidia architecture + process jump so you can just upgrade your single card. Dual card has a lot of headache, consumes a ton of power, makes a lot of heat, and you have to deal with support and drivers and micro stuttering. Plus you only have 1.5GB cards (Not worth SLi ing them imo). Just know what you are jumping into when you go SLi or xFire. If you don't have a 80+ Gold 850W PSU or 1000W you'd need to upgrade that as well.
The answer to your question is any brand is fine.
With nVidia I believe you need matching memory (since it is mirrored tmk).
theignoramus
Member
Not a bad idea. I have a 900 PSU power supply, but my motherboard cant do sli, so that's another 200-300 dollars in upgrade fees. at 800 bucks, I may as well wait for the newest nvidia card. I cant think of a single impending release that I wont be able to play on the highest settings with a single 580.
ChubbyHuggs
Member
My fucking keyboard wont let me use the top numbers on the internet, so I can't use symbols. Anyone know how to fix this?
Jzero
Member
laptop?
ChubbyHuggs
Member
Nah, and I've tried different keyboards, too.
Gaf, i have custom PC which is fairly old. Now i had some issues last night where my HDDs were not being detected by the motherboard. The only thing i have done recently is add more RAM.
After a while i got it working, but the POST is slow when it hits my main drive, and for some reason by bios reset to 2002? But i reentered all my settings.
Now when I boot up (after a ~30second wait to detect the main drive), I get to the boot manager screen asking me if I want to boot to Windows 7 or Windows 8 (on a second drive).
Windows 8 works fine.
Windows 7 however just gives me a blank screen. If i select advanced boot options for Windows 7, i get a blank screen.
Now i have no clue what the problem is: a) motherboard, b) hard drive (6-7 years old) or c) windows. (or d) combination of the above).
I have a WHS backup, so i can restore the main drive, or restore to another, so data loss is not an issue.
Does anyone have any ideas? or should i just go ahead and restore the drive bit for bit?
After a while i got it working, but the POST is slow when it hits my main drive, and for some reason by bios reset to 2002? But i reentered all my settings.
Now when I boot up (after a ~30second wait to detect the main drive), I get to the boot manager screen asking me if I want to boot to Windows 7 or Windows 8 (on a second drive).
Windows 8 works fine.
Windows 7 however just gives me a blank screen. If i select advanced boot options for Windows 7, i get a blank screen.
Now i have no clue what the problem is: a) motherboard, b) hard drive (6-7 years old) or c) windows. (or d) combination of the above).
I have a WHS backup, so i can restore the main drive, or restore to another, so data loss is not an issue.
Does anyone have any ideas? or should i just go ahead and restore the drive bit for bit?
Hi, I just have a technical question, rather than a problem, related to DNS.
Ok, so I know what a DNS is - my understanding is that it's the server that resolves IP addresses from URL lookups by a device.
Now, I have an old modem router (ADLS1), which uses my ISP DNS servers preprogrammed. I get various issues from my devices when using that router. For example, browsers get mixed up with websites, devices have some push services no working (for example Find My Phone). These issues go away when I enter my ISPs DNS addresses directly into the network settings of each device.
So my question is, do I understand correctly on what is happening? I believe my router is old and gets confused/overwhelmed with all the simultaneous lookups, or resolving those push services. By entering it directly into each device network setting, it bypasses the router having to look it up, thus offloading the workload, and not causing problems.
Example: Let's say the service I'm getting issues with is Gaf.com. With default settings, I type in Gaf.com (or otherwise use whatever service) -> My computer sends the url address to my router -> my router looks up the appropriate DNS and forwards the url request -> returning IP address to my computer.
But if I enter the DNS setting directly into my computer: My computer forwards the gaf.com lookup directly to my DNS IP, thus forwarding an actual IP address to my router -> thus my router doesn't need to look up and just points directly to the requested site.
Ok, so I know what a DNS is - my understanding is that it's the server that resolves IP addresses from URL lookups by a device.
Now, I have an old modem router (ADLS1), which uses my ISP DNS servers preprogrammed. I get various issues from my devices when using that router. For example, browsers get mixed up with websites, devices have some push services no working (for example Find My Phone). These issues go away when I enter my ISPs DNS addresses directly into the network settings of each device.
So my question is, do I understand correctly on what is happening? I believe my router is old and gets confused/overwhelmed with all the simultaneous lookups, or resolving those push services. By entering it directly into each device network setting, it bypasses the router having to look it up, thus offloading the workload, and not causing problems.
Example: Let's say the service I'm getting issues with is Gaf.com. With default settings, I type in Gaf.com (or otherwise use whatever service) -> My computer sends the url address to my router -> my router looks up the appropriate DNS and forwards the url request -> returning IP address to my computer.
But if I enter the DNS setting directly into my computer: My computer forwards the gaf.com lookup directly to my DNS IP, thus forwarding an actual IP address to my router -> thus my router doesn't need to look up and just points directly to the requested site.
Motherboard battery might be dead and corrupts the CMOS.
Measure the battery voltage with a multimeter. If it's less than 2.90-2.95 V, then you probably should get it replaced.
I don't use modem router combos as I find them problematic.
You do have the right idea regarding DNS lookups.
Thanks. I guess I'm not really concerned with it being a modem router, as the same thing could happen with a modem + router (you could enter a dns in the actual router part?). My main question was wondering what the real difference in entering a DNS server into my device vs. my router, and why that was solving issues.
I THINK it has to do with offloading the lookup workload from the router, which was not able handle it. But then, at some point the router is still receiving info, be it by itself or from the device, and routing that info back to the device.
But I guess there's a big difference from the computer doing the requests - that is, if I have the DNS server set on the device itself, it transmits IP addresses (as opposed to transmitting URL requests), meaning the router doesn't do any lookups at all? Or in other words, the router only uses its own DNS settings (DHCP?) when a url is requested, as opposed to an IP address?
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
OK so I turned my laptop on this morning and its very slow, typing is especially bad. When I type something it takes a while to actually show up on the screen and when it does it goes slowly, 1 letter at a time and if I use the arrow keys to scroll up and down through a page it takes a while to respond. This is on W7 but when I boot up Ubuntu everything is fine. It works like it used to.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
Working fine now. I found that Apple Push was running at start up. I disabled it and restarted and things are going smooth now.
Jzero
Member
EDIT: i asked a couple of people and they said you can use either a 20 or 24 pin power supply, so you don't have to buy dells power supply which includes both. I had never seen a motherboard like that.