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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

When i connect my Iphone and my Ipad into my laptop, i can´t see it when i i click on computer besides my C HD, and my external HD. It did not recognized it as an external removable device. Both of them should show up there. But they don´t. I searched google for answers and i got an answer about going to system ---> USB devices and deselect the option, but that´s not working either. What´s the problem?
 

toon_link

Member
So my laptop broke yesterday. When I boot it up I get "Non-system disk or disk error. Replace and strike any key when ready". Just stays on there no matter what. Also makes a constant soft beeping sound. I've written it off as broken beyond conventional repair, but what I was wondering is whether I can access my data somehow so I can recover my saved games and other important data. (But mostly my saved games, hehe)

Normally it runs Win 7 and I can boot into Ubuntu from a USB stick still, if that's at all relevant. My hard drive doesn't show up when I look for it though.

Thanks!
Do you have a disk in the optical drive? Can you get to the BIOS screen, try changing the boot order and put the hdd first.
 
When i connect my Iphone and my Ipad into my laptop, i can´t see it when i i click on computer besides my C HD, and my external HD. It did not recognized it as an external removable device. Both of them should show up there. But they don´t. I searched google for answers and i got an answer about going to system ---> USB devices and deselect the option, but that´s not working either. What´s the problem?

Do other USB devices work? If you're on windows only thing I can think of is that the ports were disabled. Try going into device manager and checking if your USB ports are enabled. Only thing I can think of as I'm not familiar with apple devices.
 
When I plug in via HDMI, my TV doesnt put sound through the optical port to my sound system, this normal?

Samsung DLP TV
New Panasonic Soundbar system.
 
I laugh at the microwave, no longer shall it disrupt my connection because I got a 50ft Ethernet Cable! Heck, I posted this message while someone is microwaving. :p
 

Tamanon

Banned
I laugh at the microwave, no longer shall it disrupt my connection because I got a 50ft Ethernet Cable! Heck, I posted this message while someone is microwaving. :p

Alternatively, you could've switched the frequency your router was using. That usually solves signal issues with microwaves.
 
Guys, I need a little bit of help here.

I haven't played a game on PC since BF2 and I've been wanting to get back into PC gaming for a while but just felt like so much time had gone by and I wouldn't really know where to begin.

Then a few days ago I get a call from a friend of mine who is having a bit of a rough patch and had this old Alienware machine he wanted to get rid off. I said sure why not and gave him $50 for it. It's an 7500 R4 which I knew beforehand is pretty outdated but he's a friend and needed the cash; plus I figured I'd could just use this a starting point and slowly upgrade the components.

Basically I'm wondering what do I need to connect this to my HDTV? My girlfriend and I only really plan to use it for streaming right now. I think it has a GTX 8800 so it's only got 2 DVI ports on the back. My HDTV, however, has none.

I know I can go with some DVI to HDMI cable but I'm pretty sure that won't get me any audio, right? So GAF, what do I need to get this hooked up to my TV?
 

nan0

Member
I know I can go with some DVI to HDMI cable but I'm pretty sure that won't get me any audio, right?

That depends on the graphics card, my AMD HD4850 does relay HDMI audio through DVI via a DVI->HDMI adaptor. I'm afraid you either have to try it out if you have the equipment available (my adaptor was supplied with the card, so it can't be that expensive) or do some research on Google with the exact model of your graphics card. And you probably have to switch the audio output in Windows to HDMI-Out.

Edit: Seems you're out of luck, the GTX 8800 doesn't support HDMI audio via DVI according to this thread. If you only use it for streaming, buying a cheap card who does support it is probably your best bet.
 
Edit: Seems you're out of luck, the GTX 8800 doesn't support HDMI audio via DVI according to this thread. If you only use it for streaming, a cheap card who does support it is probably your best bet.

Yeah I just saw the exact same page. Thanks man. Found that both the cables I need are available at walmart for about $20 all together.
 
A couple options:

1. Get a new video card with a DVI connection. You'll want a better card to play games on anyway.

2. You can use the sound connections on the computer itself, there should be several. Depending on how good you want the sound quality there's the standard analog jack and optical audio connector (square-ish connector next to the other audio jacks).

You're right about the computer being outdated. The first upgrade I would suggest after your video card would be a new motherboard+RAM+CPU. Anything current (even the el-cheapo AMD stuff) would be better.
 
I don't have a SPDIF port on the card unfortunately so I'm just going to have to go with the little package I found on walmart's site for now.

I did some digging and while it's an outdated rig it's apparently capable of running a lot of recent games (Skyrim, Diablo 3, BF3) on medium to high settings, so not bad for $50. Definitely going to upgrade the RAM and CPU soon though.
 
EDIT 4: That didn't work either. I stand before you a broken man.

EDIT 3: Used a couple of driver manager apps and did some more digging. CPUZ lists my mobo as the blissfully vague "alienware" when it's actually a FOXCONN NFORCE 590 SLI. Found some different audio drivers and I'm going to try those now. Please... cross your fingers.

EDIT 2: Well I have tried every single thing I could think to search for with Google. I've installed I don't know how many different realtek drivers. Still no audio and the realtek panel keeps shitting itself and telling me an audio jack has been added/removed every 30 seconds. I looked at alienwares pre-Dell drivers and didn't find any that worked there. The previous owner said that this started when he rolled back from Vista to XP. I really don't want to install Vista but I'm curious that doing so and then installing some of the vista drivers might actually work.

EDIT: Fixed the network adapter but I'm still not getting any sound. Any suggestions?

Well this has gone to hell.

Got back from walmart after work with an HDMI adapter. Hooked it up and it's all good. But I have no sound. Not through the tv, speakers, or headphones.

Checked out Device Manager and saw a yellow question mark and this "Unknown Device - Location 65535 (Internal High Definition Audio Bus)"

Tried to update the drivers for the motherboard and not only do I still not have sound but it's also unable to locate my network adapter now.

Here's some specs if it helps... I'm lost.

Time of this report: 11/4/2012, 23:13:30
Machine name: JUSTIN-7D522DC5
Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 3 (2600.xpsp_sp3_gdr.120504-1619)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: alienware
System Model: alienware
BIOS: Phoenix - AwardBIOS v6.00PG
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6700 @ 2.66GHz (2 CPUs)
Memory: 2046MB RAM
Page File: 1688MB used, 2250MB available
Windows Dir: C:WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.5512 32bit Unicode

Chipset
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Northbridge NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI SPP rev. A2
Southbridge NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI MCP rev. A2
Graphic Interface PCI-Express
PCI-E Link Width x16
PCI-E Max Link Width x16
Memory Type DDR2
Memory Size 2048 MBytes
Channels Dual
Memory Frequency 400.0 MHz (2:3)
CAS# latency (CL) 5.0
RAS# to CAS# delay (tRCD) 5
RAS# Precharge (tRP) 5
Cycle Time (tRAS) 16
Bank Cycle Time (tRC) 21
Command Rate (CR) 2T
 
EDIT 4: That didn't work either. I stand before you a broken man.

EDIT 3: Used a couple of driver manager apps and did some more digging. CPUZ lists my mobo as the blissfully vague "alienware" when it's actually a FOXCONN NFORCE 590 SLI. Found some different audio drivers and I'm going to try those now. Please... cross your fingers.

EDIT 2: Well I have tried every single thing I could think to search for with Google. I've installed I don't know how many different realtek drivers. Still no audio and the realtek panel keeps shitting itself and telling me an audio jack has been added/removed every 30 seconds. I looked at alienwares pre-Dell drivers and didn't find any that worked there. The previous owner said that this started when he rolled back from Vista to XP. I really don't want to install Vista but I'm curious that doing so and then installing some of the vista drivers might actually work.

EDIT: Fixed the network adapter but I'm still not getting any sound. Any suggestions?

Well this has gone to hell.

Got back from walmart after work with an HDMI adapter. Hooked it up and it's all good. But I have no sound. Not through the tv, speakers, or headphones.

Checked out Device Manager and saw a yellow question mark and this "Unknown Device - Location 65535 (Internal High Definition Audio Bus)"

Tried to update the drivers for the motherboard and not only do I still not have sound but it's also unable to locate my network adapter now.

Here's some specs if it helps... I'm lost.

Time of this report: 11/4/2012, 23:13:30
Machine name: JUSTIN-7D522DC5
Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 3 (2600.xpsp_sp3_gdr.120504-1619)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: alienware
System Model: alienware
BIOS: Phoenix - AwardBIOS v6.00PG
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6700 @ 2.66GHz (2 CPUs)
Memory: 2046MB RAM
Page File: 1688MB used, 2250MB available
Windows Dir: C:WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.5512 32bit Unicode

Chipset
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Northbridge NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI SPP rev. A2
Southbridge NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI MCP rev. A2
Graphic Interface PCI-Express
PCI-E Link Width x16
PCI-E Max Link Width x16
Memory Type DDR2
Memory Size 2048 MBytes
Channels Dual
Memory Frequency 400.0 MHz (2:3)
CAS# latency (CL) 5.0
RAS# to CAS# delay (tRCD) 5
RAS# Precharge (tRP) 5
Cycle Time (tRAS) 16
Bank Cycle Time (tRC) 21
Command Rate (CR) 2T

Bump for my sanity.
 

accx

Member
Bump for my sanity.


Well for starters, unless CPU-Z is posting the wrong cpu as well, that would not be your motherboard. That Foxconn motherboard should only be for AMD (Socket AM2) CPU's and not for Intel Core 2 Duo (Socket 775).

Are you trying to plug in audio via a front panel or at the back? The front panel might be glitchy.

I would also suggest removing the realtek drivers, run driver sweeper in safe mode and then find out exactly what motherboard you have.


EDIT:
http://support.alienware.com/Support_Pages/Restricted_Pages/driver_downloads_processed.aspx?os=WXP&cat=1&manu=56&item=961

This might be it. It's the same chipset as CPU-Z is reporting.
 
Well for starters, unless CPU-Z is posting the wrong cpu as well, that would not be your motherboard. That Foxconn motherboard should only be for AMD (Socket AM2) CPU's and not for Intel Core 2 Duo (Socket 775).

Are you trying to plug in audio via a front panel or at the back? The front panel might be glitchy.

I would also suggest removing the realtek drivers, run driver sweeper in safe mode and then find out exactly what motherboard you have.


EDIT:
http://support.alienware.com/Support_Pages/Restricted_Pages/driver_downloads_processed.aspx?os=WXP&cat=1&manu=56&item=961

This might be it. It's the same chipset as CPU-Z is reporting.

Well CPUZ just lists the mobo as "Alienware" and nothing else. After searching some more I found a few tech forums where people had similar issues but there didn't seem to be any consensus on how to fix the issue. It was there that I found people claiming the board to be a foxconn which led me down that road.

I just uninstalled the realtek drivers and I'm going to try the one in the link you provided. If this works you are now God.
 
Dammit! Nothing works. I think at this point it's just the board. I'm considering just getting one of those usb external sound cards. I'm putting way too much time and energy into this thing already.
 
On my notebook, this is my Google page.

Jb0AM.jpg


I don't even know if I want to fix it.
 
Ok my sister and her husband are tech illiterate. They got a new monitor for a windows XP PC and were trying to change resolution (in graphics menu) and now their monitor receives no signal at all from their PC. They tried multiple different monitors and none works so it is definitely a PC issue.

Any advice? I am helping them over the phone. They have tried restarting/messing with keyboard etc.
 

accx

Member
Dammit! Nothing works. I think at this point it's just the board. I'm considering just getting one of those usb external sound cards. I'm putting way too much time and energy into this thing already.

Yea that's what i was thinking too. Seeing if it would work in linux would eliminate the "broken hardware"-theory though.

If you're not looking for any particular outputs there's dirt cheap usb external cards available.
There's a possibility that this would add some interference, depending on what usb port you're using.
If you do get one i would suggest going into bios and disable the on board sound card to avoid any compatibility issues that might arise. Older OS's were notorious for not liking multiple sound cards connected.


Ok my sister and her husband are tech illiterate. They got a new monitor for a windows XP PC and were trying to change resolution (in graphics menu) and now their monitor receives no signal at all from their PC. They tried multiple different monitors and none works so it is definitely a PC issue.

Any advice? I am helping them over the phone. They have tried restarting/messing with keyboard etc.

Are they not getting any kind of input in bios (when you start the computer), or just in windows? If the latter you might suggest getting them to boot into safe mode (Press F8 repeatedly after bios screen) and set a supported resolution there.
Not sure if this would work but it's worth a shot.
 
Do other USB devices work? If you're on windows only thing I can think of is that the ports were disabled. Try going into device manager and checking if your USB ports are enabled. Only thing I can think of as I'm not familiar with apple devices.

Yes. My external HD works. Thanks for the advice. I already tried it, and i checked it again and all the USB drivers are enabled. I´m not sure what ´s the problem.
 
Hey fellas, I'm hoping you can help!

This is for my dad's PC. He was telling me these graphical problems he was having with this desktop PC the other week. Red and green vertical lines and whatnot. It sounded like classic dying graphics chip. Only problem, it was on-board graphics. I got him a cheap PCI card (Radeon HD something) and he installed it. There were some other, odd graphics errors then. The PC then stopped booting and it seems the boot sectors were fucked. I tried all sorts of things to get it working, no dice.

So today I just formatted the fucker. I now have it all installed, it's all working fine, but it looks like this:

http://imageshack.us/a/img9/9991/graphicsd.jpg

As you can see, all the 'Aero'y bits have this odd graphics glitch. The weirest thing to me is that this glitch is being picked up by Print Screen!

But again, this is a brand new card. Anyone got any ideas as to what might be causing it? It's a fresh install, with latest drivers, and new graphics card. What else could it be?! Motherboard, perhaps? I can't imagine it'd be the CPU or RAM.

Any ideas, and I'm all ears!
 
Video card might be overheating, or not getting enough power. Is it loud enough to hear the fans churning?
I can't hear anything. I just switched Aero off and now all is fine, so it's mostly likely related to the 3D'y'ness. It was a very cheap, low end card - HD6450 'Silent - so perhaps it doesn't have a fan? I haven't actually opened the case up to have a look (like I said, my dad installed it and I only got to his house today - I;m just visiting, I don't like here).

Thanks!
 
Having trouble with my netgear router and wireless internet. I can connect fine on wireless fine sometimes but other times it kicks me off every minute saying it timed out. I turned off power saving options off but it didn't work.
 
Having trouble with my netgear router and wireless internet. I can connect fine on wireless fine sometimes but other times it kicks me off every minute saying it timed out. I turned off power saving options off but it didn't work.

Are you connected using a Dynamic IP? Try using Static IP.
 

lingiii

Banned
JUST built a new machine, housed in a Fractal Design Define R4. After much troubs, finally got the front audio panel to interface with my motherboard, then broke the headphone jack.

Are these things standard at all? How do I get a new one? I already went through their site to request help, haven't heard back in over a week.
 

accx

Member
JUST built a new machine, housed in a Fractal Design Define R4. After much troubs, finally got the front audio panel to interface with my motherboard, then broke the headphone jack.

Are these things standard at all? How do I get a new one? I already went through their site to request help, haven't heard back in over a week.

Front panels are not standard. The connector on the motherboard usually are, but not how it's connected to the case. I would suggest trying to email Fractal Design again.
A cheaper option would be to buy an 3,5mm audio cable with male connected to the mic port in the back and female going to the front. It's not ideal but it would work.
Something like this:
http://img.alibaba.com/wsphoto/v0/490555354/9-FT-3-5mm-AUDIO-Male-to-Female-STEREO-Extension-CABLE.jpg

EDIT:
Front panels usually add static most of the time in my experience. My solution should not have that problem, but yeah, you'll have a cable running on the floor to your mic all the time which as i said, might not be ideal.
 

catabarez

Member
Could someone help me out with a problem I am having with a game?

I just bought Turok (the most recent one) and after installing the game will not start up. Instead I get a window that says "General Protection Fault." I have looked into it and tried running as Admin and disabling all of my startup programs, but it didn't fix anything. Does anyone know how to fix this?
 

AColdDay

Member
Alright, so I bought a new hard drive and got it installed(drive assignment F:) last night. Then I realized that i'm still running vista 32 bit, and I really should upgrade to a 64 bit os.

I have researched, and apparently I can't upgrade vista 32 bit to Win 8 64 bit, so I will need to do a clean install. I haven't put any files on my new hard drive so I was just going to install the new OS there. I HAVE NEVER INSTALLED AN OS.

These things are important to me: 1. I don't want anything to happen to my hard drive that has vista installed. I will cherry pick the files from that hard drive I want to move over later. 2. I want my computer to boot straight to my new OS.

what am I going to have to do to install windows 8 64 bit on my new hard drive? Is there a way to download a client to help me with this, or am I going to have to buy a disk at Best Buy? Do I install the OS in the BIOS?

Thanks in advance, and forgive the dumb questions!
 
These things are important to me: 1. I don't want anything to happen to my hard drive that has vista installed. I will cherry pick the files from that hard drive I want to move over later. 2. I want my computer to boot straight to my new OS.
1. Simple enough. Temporarily disconnect the drive with Vista on it from the computer prior to installing Windows 8. It's unlikely that anything will happen to it even if you don't, since you are given an option of which drive you wish to install the OS on. Better safe than sorry, though.
2. To make sure you get this outcome, you need to put the hard drive with Windows 8 on the lowest number drive connection possible. (number 0 or number 1 on the motherboard) This is recommended practice in the first place, as you will get some installation issues if you being the Installation with a drive not on the lowest number connection.
what am I going to have to do to install windows 8 64 bit on my new hard drive? Is there a way to download a client to help me with this, or am I going to have to buy a disk at Best Buy? Do I install the OS in the BIOS?
OS installations traditionally come on disks, but with a decently new computer (with the ability to boot from a USB port) you could download a client to install from a flash drive. Honestly, just buying a disk is simpler, though. Just pop it in your disk drive, boot from that disk drive, and follow the installation prompt that you are given. It's really quite simple if you aren't doing anything fancy.
 

n64coder

Member
Will I have a dual boot machine after this? Like I could load up my old vista os if I chose to?

I recently put Windows 8 on a laptop that has Windows 7. The installation asks if you want to install to the existing partition and will move c:\windows to c:\windows.old. So you'll have your data intact but be running the new OS.

Or you can install Windows to a new partition and then you can dual-boot. I went with this option. First, I had a single drive (320GB). Windows was able to shrink the partition only by 50GB even though I was only using about 40GB out of the 320GB. If you google for information on how to shrink your partition, it will tell you to do stuff like:

1. Turn off the virtual memory page file
2. Delete all system recovery profiles
3. Turn off hibernation.

By doing the above, I was able to shrink it some more. But to do it further, I had to download a 3rd party defrag/partition tool (PerfectDisk 12.5). It has a 30 day free trial. With that, I was able to really shrink the partition down to 80GB. Then I ran the Windows 8 install and chose the new empty partition.

When my machine boots up, I have a choice between Windows 7 or Windows 8 with the latter being the default. This should also work for Vista and other OSes. The key is that the older OS must be installed first.
 

AColdDay

Member
Alright, so I've managed to wildly screw this up. So I went to Best Buy, and asked for "Windows 8" and I was handed this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008H3SW4I/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Notice that the box doesn't say "Windows 8 Pro UPGRADE", it just says Windows 8 Pro.

So I make sure to unplug my old hard drive before I install the new OS on my new hard drive, just in case I do something stupid. I wouldn't want to lose the 100+ pictures I've taken in the last few months of my new son.

ANYWAYS, so I do a clean install, get everything set up, go through the initial activation blah blah blah, get my bluetooth keyboard and mouse set up and when I click on "SOLVE PC ISSUES", it notifies me that I need to activate Windows 8. I'm thinking "wierd, I thought I already did this during the set-up, but whatever", but when I enter the number this time, I get an error that says "This is only for upgrades, not clean installs"

So now I'm like FUCK, I've got to do this shit all over again, but make sure my original hard drive that has Vista is plugged in and go through the upgrade route. I will probably need to format the new hard drive again too, right?

So here is where my new problem is: I don't have enough SATA power cables to power my old hard drive, my new hard drive and my cd drive. The power supply that comes out of my mother board only has two connectors for SATA stuff (they are like linked together in one bundle of wires). How am I going to do this now?
 

nan0

Member
So here is where my new problem is: I don't have enough SATA power cables to power my old hard drive, my new hard drive and my cd drive. The power supply that comes out of my mother board only has two connectors for SATA stuff (they are like linked together in one bundle of wires). How am I going to do this now?

Does your PSU have a free Molex cable (those used for older IDE drives)? There are cheap adapters from Molex to SATA power. They look like this.

Can't say anything to the upgrade issue though, you may want to ask in the Windows 8 OT, there are surely some folks who know.
 

t-ramp

Member
So here is where my new problem is: I don't have enough SATA power cables to power my old hard drive, my new hard drive and my cd drive. The power supply that comes out of my mother board only has two connectors for SATA stuff (they are like linked together in one bundle of wires). How am I going to do this now?
Try to install Windows 8 over itself.

Also, this article is for Windows 7, but the regedit trick might work for you: http://winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media-128512
 

Derrick01

Banned
Got a question about malwarebytes. Is it supposed to scan the same amount every time assuming nothing was added/removed from the PC? Seems like it's coming up a couple thousand short and I don't recall removing anything. Just want to make sure it's not skipping anything on the full scan for whatever reason.
 

Jzero

Member
Got a question about malwarebytes. Is it supposed to scan the same amount every time assuming nothing was added/removed from the PC? Seems like it's coming up a couple thousand short and I don't recall removing anything. Just want to make sure it's not skipping anything on the full scan for whatever reason.
If you don't want it to skip anything do a full scan. It takes a lot longer though.
 

Derrick01

Banned
If you don't want it to skip anything do a full scan. It takes a lot longer though.

I only ever do full scans. I meant that it usually stops around a certain number and just now I noticed it was a couple thousand less, yeah I'm OCD like that. So I was wondering if it has some kind of smartscan thing where it'll pass over non essential recently scanned stuff because I know Norton does that if a quick scan was recently done.

EDIT: The only thing that I can think of that changed was when Steam had to convert Skyrim to that new format and maybe that freed up some space therefore freeing up the amount MB had to scan. I'm just guessing though.
 

Derrick01

Banned
I'm still having weird things with malwarebytes that I've never had before. Now it seems to skip whole sections when doing a scan (for example it goes from 28k to 30k instantly). Is there any other really good and well known scan program out there? I need to make sure something isn't on my PC and making MB pass over it.
 

SMT

this show is not Breaking Bad why is it not Breaking Bad? it should be Breaking Bad dammit Breaking Bad
Hello, I just bought an AMD3 Phenom II X6 1045T Processor and I was just wondering what a solid motherboard I could get to along with it, any ideas? :)

Thanks
 

Jzero

Member
I'm still having weird things with malwarebytes that I've never had before. Now it seems to skip whole sections when doing a scan (for example it goes from 28k to 30k instantly). Is there any other really good and well known scan program out there? I need to make sure something isn't on my PC and making MB pass over it.
Man you're really paranoid. Anyways you can use the trial for Hitman Pro for a second opinion.

Hello, I just bought an AMD3 Phenom II X6 1045T Processor and I was just wondering what a solid motherboard I could get to along with it, any ideas? :)

Thanks
This would be a better thread to ask for hardware advice
 
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