Support NeoGAF

[accx]

I have some weird graphics card problems that I could really use you guys help with.

I haven't played a game in a while, last time was during the Mann VS. Machine update. I got FarCry 3 and started playing it at optimal settings. This produced 2 lockups and a temperature of 74 celsius. I have an i5 2500k stock, GTX 580 stock with the added ASUS cooler fans etc (non ref).

After the hard locks, that didn't produce any errors, I tried a beta driver and I got a Blue screen error. Deleted the driver, used driver sweeper and tried again with the old drivers. To see if it was related to FarCry 3 I booted up Battlefield three which after 1 minute in the game decided to hardlock and I never experienced that before in BF3.

So I'm probably left with some kind of hardware error? What are my options here?

Run memtest and see if that checks out fine.
Run furmark/occt to check gpu. run it for a while and monitor the temperatures. don't let it go past 80 celsius.
Prime 95 only taxes cpu and i've yet to see a cpu fail.
Remove any devices that's not necessary and run benchmarks again to rule out psu.
Format and create a fresh install. Only install drivers and benchmark tools.
Clean fans and change thermal paste (although this is probably not necessary).

(Posted a while back in stupid questions, no help)

One album (and one album only) causes my iPod (4th gen) to freeze and/or really not work at all, forcing a hard reset. This problem has existed on it from iOS 4 to the current day on iOS 6. I've removed the songs, redownloaded new versions of the files from a different source and it still does. It is only this one album, no others. Which sucks, causes it an awesome EP. :/ The only thing I haven't tried is renaming the tags of the songs, to see if its a weird thing like that.

Any help?

Rename tags. It's the first thing you should've tried.
It's likely there's special characters or embedded sections causing it to hang.
Long file names/tags could also be a culprit.
Try encoding into other formats (like mp3 which it should handle perfectly).

Got a question about malwarebytes. Is it supposed to scan the same amount every time assuming nothing was added/removed from the PC? Seems like it's coming up a couple thousand short and I don't recall removing anything. Just want to make sure it's not skipping anything on the full scan for whatever reason.

There's never the same amount of files on your C partition due to Temp files and what not. Scanning your computer (and doing full scans) too often will probably decrease hard drive performance.
Tools that you want to use and probably the only things you'll need:

!!Note!!
You do not (and should not) allow all the programs to install services that run at boot.
Except for an antivirus. You only want to use these every so often, not having them run in the background all the time.
Spybot search and destroy have this teatimer or whatever the fuck it's called that's complete shit. malwarebytes and superantispyware also install some kind of services that you will want to disable in service manager (WIN+R, "services.msc")
Always use Msconfig when removing autostart items. always use services.msc for changing services.
See this site for optimization:
http://www.blackviper.com
You should not really have to scan that often. once every other month if you're paranoid.
Defraggler should probably be run every 3-6th months. It all depends on how much you're reading/writing to the hard drive.
Defraggler should not be used with SSD's (iirc fragmentation doesn't happen on SSD's).
!!Note!!

Malware Bytes Anti Spyware
MSE (or Nod32 if you can afford it). MSE is fantastic though.
CCleaner.
Temp File Cleaner (more aggressive than ccleaner for clearing temp files)
Superantispyware
Spybot - search and destroy
Defraggler.
hijackthis & combofix (this is only for advanced users and only when nothing else works)

 

[NervousXtian]

So I got a whole new PC almost ready to build, parts still trickling in.. but my old PC is a Dell with a 5770.

It's been having issues, and mainly my kids and wife were using it.. but the GPU is being taxed... so I finally checked and it's idling at over 70c and hitting the 90c+ running something as simple as Garry's Mod.

This is way too hot.. could this be the thermal paste has worn out, the heatsink not seated, something simple... or do GPU's go out this way sometimes just by constantly heating up as things go bad?

Ideas?

 

[NervousXtian]

So I got a whole new PC almost ready to build, parts still trickling in.. but my old PC is a Dell with a 5770.

It's been having issues, and mainly my kids and wife were using it.. but the GPU is being taxed... so I finally checked and it's idling at over 70c and hitting the 90c+ running something as simple as Garry's Mod.

This is way too hot.. could this be the thermal paste has worn out, the heatsink not seated, something simple... or do GPU's go out this way sometimes just by constantly heating up as things go bad?

Ideas?

Well, took it all apart, cleaned it better than I did last time as I actually took the heatsink off. Applied new thermal paste, and guess what... idling around 37c and Garry's Mod is sitting at 67c.

Sometimes, I feel so stupid for trying the easy things first.

 

[Mareg]

I seem to be unable to update the display driver on an AMD Trinity APU. The APU is code named A8-5500 and it comes with the display part called HD 7350.

When I start the catalyst display suite, it goes throught all the steps but doesn't seem to detect the display part of the APU. This is driving me absolutly mad.

 

[f0nz0]

Hey guys, need help with my video card/monitor..


So I bought one of the ps3 3d displays on Black Friday (99$ wasn't too bad) to use as a pc monitor/gaming tv..I have an older pc that I built in 2007 with an EVGA 8800gts 640mb card..I had to buy a DVD-hdmi adapted since rue card does not have hdmi out and the monitor doesn't have DVi/VGA inputs..anyway when I plug in the hdmi cord and turn the pc on, the motherboard/bios splash screen comes up, then screen goes black,then the motherboard/bios screen flashes again for a split second then the screen stays black... Basically the pc doesn't seem to boot all the way...the strange thing is that if I wait to plug in the hdmi cord until I think the pc has completely booted up (waiting at windows user splash screen) then I get the monitor to work...

Any ideas?

Specs

Core2 e6400
2gb g skill ram
Win xp
EVGA 8800gts

 

[Combichristoffersen]

Edit: Nvm, I found what I asked for.

 

[conman]

Okay, Tech GAF (PC division), I hope you can help.

I was having some sporadic audio drops from my PC (connected through an Onkyo 509). Everything had been fine on my 5.1 setup, but for some audio sources, I was getting weird drops. So I decided to completely uninstall and reinstall my audio drivers. I've reinstalled everything.

Now, both my onboard audio (Biostar TZ77B) and my ATI HDMI audio driver (for my AMD HD7870) show up fine in my device manager list. That's all good AFAIK.

But the problem is that for some reason now the ATI device isn't showing up when I go to "manage audio devices" section (Windows 7), so I have no way of selecting it to get audio. All that's showing up is "Realtek Digital Output." I used to see two separate options. I'm now stuck with 2-channel audio with no way to change it. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the various ATI HDMI drivers I've gotten from the Realtek site, but to no avail.

Help?

 

[accx]

Okay, Tech GAF (PC division), I hope you can help.

I was having some sporadic audio drops from my PC (connected through an Onkyo 509). Everything had been fine on my 5.1 setup, but for some audio sources, I was getting weird drops. So I decided to completely uninstall and reinstall my audio drivers. I've reinstalled everything.

Now, both my onboard audio (Biostar TZ77B) and my ATI HDMI audio driver (for my AMD HD7870) show up fine in my device manager list. That's all good AFAIK.

But the problem is that for some reason now the ATI device isn't showing up when I go to "manage audio devices" section (Windows 7), so I have no way of selecting it to get audio. All that's showing up is "Realtek Digital Output." I used to see two separate options. I'm now stuck with 2-channel audio with no way to change it. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the various ATI HDMI drivers I've gotten from the Realtek site, but to no avail.

Help?

I would suggest doing a complete uninstall of all ati drivers and realtek drivers (have the latest available before hand). Also have driver sweeper installed.
First, run it through add/remove programs and run the uninstall procedure.
Then, reboot into safe mode (Pressing F8 repeatedly after bios screen and before windows startup).
Run Driver sweeper and select ATI and Realtek and delete everything.
Reboot and install from start.

If this does not work. You could try and skip re-installing the realtek drivers after reboot. Windows has its own multi media driver that actually works fine (but without all the bells and whistles).

Hope it works!

 

[conman]

I would suggest doing a complete uninstall of all ati drivers and realtek drivers (have the latest available before hand). Also have driver sweeper installed.
First, run it through add/remove programs and run the uninstall procedure.
Then, reboot into safe mode (Pressing F8 repeatedly after bios screen and before windows startup).
Run Driver sweeper and select ATI and Realtek and delete everything.
Reboot and install from start.

If this does not work. You could try and skip re-installing the realtek drivers after reboot. Windows has its own multi media driver that actually works fine (but without all the bells and whistles).

Hope it works!

Thanks. I'll try that and report back when I get off work.

At this point, I've tried just about every combination of uninstalling and reinstalling my audio drivers (mobo, realtek, amd). But I haven't run any kind of driver cleaner program. All that tinkering might have shaken something loose.

If your suggestion doesn't work, I'm prepared to do a fresh Windows reinstall. And if that doesn't work...

 

[accx]

Thanks. I'll try that and report back when I get off work.

At this point, I've tried just about every combination of uninstalling and reinstalling my audio drivers (mobo, realtek, amd). But I haven't run any kind of driver cleaner program. All that tinkering might have shaken something loose.

If your suggestion doesn't work, I'm prepared to do a fresh Windows reinstall. And if that doesn't work...

The thing is, all that uninstalling from within windows doesn't actually clean out all the driver files. some are still there and installing new drivers on top of them can cause issues. That's why i always opt to going into safe mode and clean them out.
The reason why all the files doesn't get removed is because they're still in use when in windows. In Safe mode, the only drivers that's loaded is just the essentials, meaning a sweeper can clear out the other ones, giving you a clean slate.
It's way easier than just doing a fresh win install.


This is what you want btw:
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/guru3d_driver_sweeper_(no_installer).html

 

[conman]

The thing is, all that uninstalling from within windows doesn't actually clean out all the driver files. some are still there and installing new drivers on top of them can cause issues. That's why i always opt to going into safe mode and clean them out.
The reason why all the files doesn't get removed is because they're still in use when in windows. In Safe mode, the only drivers that's loaded is just the essentials, meaning a sweeper can clear out the other ones, giving you a clean slate.
It's way easier than just doing a fresh win install.


This is what you want btw:
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/guru3d_driver_sweeper_(no_installer).html

Awesome. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes. *fingers crossed*

 

[accx]

Awesome. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes. *fingers crossed*

Yeah, the way you use driver sweeper is just selecting the drivers you want it to scan for (in your case, realtek and ati).
Select ATI, select Realtek, hit Analyze. Let it run (should just be a couple of seconds) and then clean.
And of course, do this in safe mode.

EDIT:
Hm, The version i linked to might just be for display drivers.
I'll see if i can find an updated version of driver sweeper (before it went to shit).
Like i said. You need to have the drivers available. This means that you have to first clean out ati drivers for your graphics card in add/remove programs as well. Not just audio drivers.
And have the new ones available.

EDIT2:
Hope you haven't started the process yet. I linked to something way old.
Gimme a few and i'll hook you up with the right link.

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/driver_sweeper_download.html
This seem to be the latest (3.2.0)

 

[conman]

Yeah, the way you use driver sweeper is just selecting the drivers you want it to scan for (in your case, realtek and ati).
Select ATI, select Realtek, hit Analyze. Let it run (should just be a couple of seconds) and then clean.
And of course, do this in safe mode.

EDIT:
Hm, The version i linked to might just be for display drivers.
I'll see if i can find an updated version of driver sweeper (before it went to shit).
Like i said. You need to have the drivers available. This means that you have to first clean out ati drivers for your graphics card in add/remove programs as well. Not just audio drivers.
And have the new ones available.

EDIT2:
Hope you haven't started the process yet. I linked to something way old.
Gimme a few and i'll hook you up with the right link.

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/driver_sweeper_download.html
This seem to be the latest (3.2.0)

Cool. I won't be home for a couple hours yet.

Also, when you say to "have the drivers available," do you mean downloaded and ready to install? Should I have them on a thumb drive, or is it fine to have them on my HDD? And just to be sure, do I just need the motherboard audio drivers and the amd catalyst stuff? Because I've also gone to the realtek site and tried the ati hdmi audio driver directly. Should I have that driver ready to go, as well? Or should that one be included in either my mobo or the amd set? And does it matter which order I install those?

Probably dumb questions, but I just want to make sure I'm thorough before I have to do anything super drastic. If my mobo had an optical audio connection, I probably would have just done that. Hopefully this works. Thanks again for your help!

 

[accx]

Cool. I won't be home for a couple hours yet.

Also, when you say to "have the drivers available," do you mean downloaded and ready to install? Should I have them on a thumb drive, or is it fine to have them on my HDD? And just to be sure, do I just need the motherboard audio drivers and the amd catalyst stuff? Because I've also gone to the realtek site and tried the ati hdmi audio driver directly. Should I have that driver ready to go, as well? Or should that one be included in either my mobo or the amd set? And does it matter which order I install those?

Probably dumb questions, but I just want to make sure I'm thorough before I have to do anything super drastic. If my mobo had an optical audio connection, I probably would have just done that. Hopefully this works. Thanks again for your help!

Not a stupid question.
As long as you have them available on the harddrive it's fine.
I'm assuming you do not have a onboard graphics card, otherwise it would be preferable to get it from the motherboard manufacturer.
Otherwise:
The ATI driver are available at http://ati.amd.com

I also assume that in this case, the realtek soundcard IS a onboard sound card, and therefore you could either use the one that's available at your motherboard manufacturers website, or the latest that realtek provides, here:
http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/

If you could provide me with some information (doesn't matter if it's rather vague) regarding motherboard and graphics card, i could give you better direct links
I'll monitor the thread for a couple of hours but if you don't see a respond from me or anyone else, you could pm and i'll get back to you later on. It's midnight where i am but will be available for atleast a couple of hours.

EDIT:
You should try and rely on the drivers that ati.amd.com gives you. they include the hdmi audio drivers. From personal experience the realtek drivers are rarely needed, even for the onboard sound card (as windows has it's own generic driver for it that's actually a lot more stable).
The only reason you would have to install drivers for the onboard soundcard (realtek) would be:
1) you get no sound at all from it's output.
2) you need the realtek manager with it's bells and whistles for managing connections.

Realteks audio drivers for onboard sound can work perfectly but can also cause a major hassle. Back when Bad Company 2 released all my BSOD's was directly linked to realtek drivers, for an example.
It's of course purely anecdotal but since windows generic driver for on board sound works fine there's little reason to install them tbh.

EDIT2:
To clarify:
If your computer have a ATI graphics card
http://ati.amd.com
Find the drivers for your graphics card and install after the sweep i mentioned earlier.

If everything works fine with both your onboard soundcard (realtek) and HDMI connection, dance!

If HDMI connection works fine but onboard soundcard gives issues, either resort to getting the latest driver directly from realtek.

If after installing driver directly from realtek doesn't change anything or create other issues, repeat process regarding driver sweeping (although this time you can ignore marking ATI and only select realtek in safe mode)

Then try drivers provided by the motherboard manufacturer.

If problems still persists; dim the lights, turn on some blues and start drinking.

 

[tarheel91]

I've got a Radeon 7950 with the latest driver. It should have Open CL 1.2 support. However, upon opening GPU-Z it tells me it's disabled, and when I try to run Luxmark (Open CL benchmark) the program won't run. I've already tried turning off the integrated graphics and it didn't solve the problem. The general consensus online is it's the integrated graphics drivers messing things up, but I've got integrated graphics turned off. Any ideas on what else I can do?

I'd also like to point out that I can see the package responsible for Open CL upon installation of the driver. It's there, but for some reason it won't work.

 

[conman]

You kick ass, accx. All is working. I'm getting different listed devices from before, but I don't care. I still get the same codecs, 5.1, and same quality output as before. Thanks!

 

[accx]

I've got a Radeon 7950 with the latest driver. It should have Open CL 1.2 support. However, upon opening GPU-Z it tells me it's disabled, and when I try to run Luxmark (Open CL benchmark) the program won't run. I've already tried turning off the integrated graphics and it didn't solve the problem. The general consensus online is it's the integrated graphics drivers messing things up, but I've got integrated graphics turned off. Any ideas on what else I can do?

I'd also like to point out that I can see the package responsible for Open CL upon installation of the driver. It's there, but for some reason it won't work.

Did you turn off the integrated card via bios? If not, try that.
You could also go through the process i posted earlier with totally removing the drivers with driver sweeper in safe mode to get a clean slate.

Try finding information about users that have it working fine and which driver version they're using and try that instead of the latest.

Are there any reason you need Open CL 1.2 to work or does everything works fine except that gpu-z is indicating it's not enabled and Luxmark not starting?
If it's not really something you are gonna use i would suggest leaving it be.

You kick ass, accx. All is working. I'm getting different listed devices from before, but I don't care. I still get the same codecs, 5.1, and same quality output as before. Thanks!

Glad to help! Like i said, if you don't need to fiddle with realteks sound manager for some unknown reason you don't really have to install their drivers (meaning the ones from the mobo manufacturer or realteks own site).
Their drivers are the worst piece of shit i've ever encountered and they can cause BSOD in a lot of games. Mainly games using Punk Buster as a AntiCheat tool when playing online.
ATI's drivers are fine (despite what idiots say on the internet). They only got that reputation because of the 4xxx -series, which had some major issues with quality control.


EDIT:
Yay! Junior status removed <3

 

[SecretMoblin]

Just built my first PC, and most of the annoyances have thankfully been pretty minor. But there are two problems I haven't been able to solve:

-I have two monitors: one a 1366x768 on my desk, connected to the DVI-I via a VGA adapter, and the other my 1080p HDTV, connected via HDMI, which I want to use for gaming/media. I have my desktop extended across both monitors, but when I try to run a game in fullscreen on the TV, it only recognizes 1366x768 as the max resolution. The only workaround I've found is to make the TV my primary monitor; of course, this rearranges the icons on my desktop, changes where programs open, and is generally a hassle. I've scoured the options in both Windows 8 and Catalyst Control Center (I'm running an AMD card), but I can't find a way to make programs recognize the full resolution of the second screen. I'm using the latest drivers and I've rebooted.

In short: is there any way to run programs in full resolution on the second screen without making it my primary monitor? I fear the only solution is getting a proper 1080p monitor for the desk...

-Is there any way to disable the lock screen on vanilla Windows 8? All of the solutions I'm finding involve getting into the Local Group Policy editor, which isn't on my system. Apparently regular versions of 7 didn't include the editor.​

Any help or information to know?

 

[accx]

Just built my first PC, and most of the annoyances have thankfully been pretty minor. But there are two problems I haven't been able to solve:

-I have two monitors: one a 1366x768 on my desk, connected to the DVI-I via a VGA adapter, and the other my 1080p HDTV, connected via HDMI, which I want to use for gaming/media. I have my desktop extended across both monitors, but when I try to run a game in fullscreen on the TV, it only recognizes 1366x768 as the max resolution. The only workaround I've found is to make the TV my primary monitor; of course, this rearranges the icons on my desktop, changes where programs open, and is generally a hassle. I've scoured the options in both Windows 8 and Catalyst Control Center (I'm running an AMD card), but I can't find a way to make programs recognize the full resolution of the second screen. I'm using the latest drivers and I've rebooted.

In short: is there any way to run programs in full resolution on the second screen without making it my primary monitor? I fear the only solution is getting a proper 1080p monitor for the desk...

-Is there any way to disable the lock screen on vanilla Windows 8? All of the solutions I'm finding involve getting into the Local Group Policy editor, which isn't on my system. Apparently regular versions of 7 didn't include the editor.​

Any help or information to know?

Shit, since i removed CCC and atm only using RadeonPro i can't see the different options.
Try fiddling around with the different settings. It should be possible having the resolution on the TV in 1080p while having the monitor in a lower/high resolution. You really need to try out every option available in CCC.
I'm running a laptop with 1080p and desktop monitor in 1680*1050, but can't check it out atm.
I'm also pretty sure you should be able to assign which applications should open were (games open on secondary monitor while regular applications on primary monitor).

I would suggest getting a new monitor as well though only for upgrading and having a higher resolution, but you shouldn't have to in order to get this to work.

 

[SecretMoblin]

Shit, since i removed CCC and atm only using RadeonPro i can't see the different options.
Try fiddling around with the different settings. It should be possible having the resolution on the TV in 1080p while having the monitor in a lower/high resolution. You really need to try out every option available in CCC.
I'm running a laptop with 1080p and desktop monitor in 1680*1050, but can't check it out atm.
I'm also pretty sure you should be able to assign which applications should open were (games open on secondary monitor while regular applications on primary monitor).

I would suggest getting a new monitor as well though only for upgrading and having a higher resolution, but you shouldn't have to in order to get this to work.

Thanks!

I spent some more time in CCC but still haven't stumbled upon a solution. It's odd: it recognizes the two different resolutions and I can drag Chrome onto the second screen, hit maximize, and have it fill the screen at 1080p. But both Steam and games launched from Steam "maximize" to 1366x768 regardless of what I do.

There are scaling options in CCC and there's EyeFinity, but I don't think either of those is what I'm after.

My Googling is failing me. I suppose I'll have to live with switching the primary display until I get a new monitor.

Thanks again!

 

[accx]

Thanks!

I spent some more time in CCC but still haven't stumbled upon a solution. It's odd: it recognizes the two different resolutions and I can drag Chrome onto the second screen, hit maximize, and have it fill the screen at 1080p. But both Steam and games launched from Steam "maximize" to 1366x768 regardless of what I do.

There are scaling options in CCC and there's EyeFinity, but I don't think either of those is what I'm after.

My Googling is failing me. I suppose I'll have to live with switching the primary display until I get a new monitor.

Thanks again!

You could try Ultramon. I'm pretty sure you should be able to do it without it, but Ultramon will probably be the fastest and easiest way to do it.
http://www.realtimesoft.com/ultramon/

 

[SecretMoblin]

You could try Ultramon. I'm pretty sure you should be able to do it without it, but Ultramon will probably be the fastest and easiest way to do it.
http://www.realtimesoft.com/ultramon/

I'll play around with it and try to figure things out before the trial expires.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[XAL]

Chrome question.

Alt+Left Click used to download images (and full sized images off of thumbnails) automatically to the default download folder.

It doesn't work anymore.

I can't seem to find any extensions or fixes for this issue. When I google it, it's as if the problem has been wiped from the internet. I can barely find anyone even asking about the problem (all that pops up are firefox questions on the same problem, but that has an easy fix).

Help please.

 

[StickSoldier]

so just wondering, if I get a new SSD can I do a clean install to it using my old windows license and cd from my laptop?

 

[goldenticket]

so the mic on my iPhone 4s is messed up (my iphone has been though a lot) im trying to hold off in getting a new phone until the next one comes out. so can i buy one of those new apple headphones the earpods that have a mic on them and use that mic for the next few months on phone calls?

 

[Jzero]

so the mic on my iPhone 4s is messed up (my iphone has been though a lot) im trying to hold off in getting a new phone until the next one comes out. so can i buy one of those new apple headphones the earpods that have a mic on them and use that mic for the next few months on phone calls?

Yea, you don't even need earpods, you can also use their older headphones with mics on them.

 

[goldenticket]

thanks Jzero! i forgot the old ones had mics on them too. i never took my earbuds out of the package because i dont like how they feel but i dug em up and they work. so you just saved me 30 bucks

 

[n64coder]

so just wondering, if I get a new SSD can I do a clean install to it using my old windows license and cd from my laptop?

Which version of Windows? 7?

Generally, yes. You might run into an activation issue if you have already activated somewhere else.

 

[The Adder]

So I moved into a new place with a new internet connection. I can browse perfectly fine, but I can't do anything that involves interacting with other people's computers on this network. I can't connect to game servers, I can't connect to IRCs. Can't do anything really.

It's not my computer, because when I go anywhere else I can do all of those things, but here at home I can't.

Any clue as to what's up?

 

[nan0]

So I moved into a new place with a new internet connection. I can browse perfectly fine, but I can't do anything that involves interacting with other people's computers on this network. I can't connect to game servers, I can't connect to IRCs. Can't do anything really.

It's not my computer, because when I go anywhere else I can do all of those things, but here at home I can't.

Any clue as to what's up?

Sounds like your router blocks everything but HTTP connections.

 

[rc213]

Hopefully you guys can help me find this. I've been looking for a USB cable for a JVC Hybrid Camcorder GZ-MG155U to download some videos recorded on the HDD. Haven't had any luck so far.

 

[Jzero]

Hopefully you guys can help me find this. I've been looking for a USB cable for a JVC Hybrid Camcorder GZ-MG155U to download some videos recorded on the HDD. Haven't had any luck so far.

http://i.imgur.com/eq3pe.jpg[/im][/quote]
That looks like a 5 pin Mini USB type A.

Edit: According to the [URL="http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/00/91/LYT1668-001C.pdf"]manual[/URL] it accepts Mini USB A or B.

 

[shira]

Do better wifi antennas work? I usually get 2 bars with a basement PC and an upstairs kitchen router.

I have a PCI stock antennae. Wondering if I should upgrade the antennae or go with USB.

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=195213&CatId=374

 

[Jzero]

Do better wifi antennas work? I usually get 2 bars with a basement PC and an upstairs kitchen router.

I have a PCI stock antennae. Wondering if I should upgrade the antennae or go with USB.

http://www.chuckegg.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/08/pci-wifi.jpg[/im]

[url="http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=195213&CatId=374"]http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...5213&CatId=374[/url][/quote]
What router do you have? and what wireless type is it B, G, N ?

 

[shira]

What router do you have? and what wireless type is it B, G, N ?

IDK I'll have to check. (Might take 3-5 days)
How is this important? Thanks

 

[Jzero]

IDK I'll have to check. (Might take 3-5 days)
How is this important? Thanks

The range of the wifi signal your router transmits is the most important thing to know. You don't remember what router you have?

 

[n64coder]

That looks like a 5 pin Mini USB type A.

Edit: According to the manual it is a Mini USB type A. The problem is going to be finding a place to buy it.

Here's one place

I never understood the reason why there are so many different kinds of USB connectors.

 

[Jzero]

Here's one place

I never understood the reason why there are so many different kinds of USB connectors.

So after doing more research i found the exact port on the camera. It's actually a Mini Usb AB port so you can use either the A cable or B cable. Mini-B USB is obviously the cable to get if you don't already have one.

 

[rc213]

Thanks, I have those mini usb that I use to charge my ps3 controllers and they don't fit.

 

[thirty]

Hello tech gaf. I recently bought a lenovo y580 and decided to add a 128g crucial mSATA card to it for faster overall computing. Popped it in and my computer boots way quicker but I can't see the drive. There was one notification when I first booted with it that it'd be used for caching or something but that's it. How do I go about either getting it to appear so I can actually use it for fast storage or completely moving the os to it? If its only a difference of a few seconds more for boot up, not having to totally reinstall the OS would be my first choice as its already cut boot up in half but it can also help games perform better I wouldn't mind having those files reside on the faster drive as well. I've searched Google and every answer looks to be a pain in the ass. Thanks.

 

[t-ramp]

Hello tech gaf. I recently bought a lenovo y580 and decided to add a 128g crucial mSATA card to it for faster overall computing. Popped it in and my computer boots way quicker but I can't see the drive. There was one notification when I first booted with it that it'd be used for caching or something but that's it. How do I go about either getting it to appear so I can actually use it for fast storage or completely moving the os to it? If its only a difference of a few seconds more for boot up, not having to totally reinstall the OS would be my first choice as its already cut boot up in half but it can also help games perform better I wouldn't mind having those files reside on the faster drive as well. I've searched Google and every answer looks to be a pain in the ass. Thanks.

It may be an option in your BIOS or equivalent. If your only option for caching is to use the entire drive it makes sense the drive doesn't show up in the OS.

 

[thirty]

Thanks. I'll mess around in the BIOS tonight. I guess there's also a program called veloSSD that you can try or buy that'll make it show up for storage without jumping thru too many hoops too. know anything about that? I also read that maybe installing windows again to the ssd then changing it to the boot drive could work too and the current main drive would still show up with data untouched.

 

[PGamer]

Crosspost from the PC building thread:

I have an HDD (WD Green) that shows up in Windows when I have it connected to my case's external drive bay but when I have it plugged in internally it doesn't show up in either device manager or disk management. I've tried using multiple ports and multiple SATA cable and that didn't fix anything. Does anyone know what the issue could be here?

 

[accx]

Crosspost from the PC building thread:

I have an HDD (WD Green) that shows up in Windows when I have it connected to my case's external drive bay but when I have it plugged in internally it doesn't show up in either device manager or disk management. I've tried using multiple ports and multiple SATA cable and that didn't fix anything. Does anyone know what the issue could be here?

Does it show up in bios? Check settings there.
You might need to fiddle with sata settings (such as raid/ahci mode).

 

[PGamer]

Does it show up in bios? Check settings there.
You might need to fiddle with sata settings (such as raid/ahci mode).

Yeah it shows up in BIOS. I have my SATA configuration as AHCI and I don't use RAID. It doesn't get listed as a boot option however while my other drives do if that means anything.

 

[NoRéN]

Newly built PC.

CPU running too hot. Advice?

 

[s7evn]

Newly built PC.

CPU running too hot. Advice?

The paste needs to be reapplied or the heatsink isn't doing its job. Definitely try reapplying the thermal paste

 

[NoRéN]

The paste needs to be reapplied or the heatsink isn't doing its job. Definitely try reapplying the thermal paste

I hope it's not the heatsink. It's a hyper 212+.

 

[Dmented]

I hope it's not the heatsink. It's a hyper 212+.

Unless you put on no paste at all, it's either the cooler or something else causing that. That's pretty high especially if that's idle temps.

 

[trilobyte]

Do better wifi antennas work? I usually get 2 bars with a basement PC and an upstairs kitchen router.

I have a PCI stock antennae. Wondering if I should upgrade the antennae or go with USB.

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=195213&CatId=374

A new antenna *might* help. As someone suggested, please link your router when you can

One thing to consider, if there is a plug between your kitchen and basement (stairway perhaps?), is to use a repeater that plugs in the wall:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122422

I would also get items from a local store with liberal return policies. I speak from experience, debugging range issues can be a chore in try/fail. If you have a wireless laptop, you can install this:
http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/

And walk around your house to find dead spots. Perhaps, changing the channel on the router will do the trick.