-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
weekend_warrior
Banned
Ah, cool. I pinned the new icon, closed the browser and re-opened and it opened on the new pinned icon, didn't open yet another icon, so I deleted the first pin and all seems good now, thanks! Good idea!
Johnny Cage In The Shower
Member
So I am quite certain I fried the HDMI out port on my laptop,
I ran some tests of my own, all signs lead to the HDMI out being fried,
I use my laptop a lot for work and also use the HDMI out, it's an old HP tablet PC, running Windows 7 (64bit) with an on board (intel) AND a dedicated GPU
How expensive and difficult is it to replace one of these babies? it's attached to the motherboard too right?
Can anyone give me some hope? Shed some light on this matter?
Thanks
(Random pic off the net to show the part.)
I ran some tests of my own, all signs lead to the HDMI out being fried,
I use my laptop a lot for work and also use the HDMI out, it's an old HP tablet PC, running Windows 7 (64bit) with an on board (intel) AND a dedicated GPU
How expensive and difficult is it to replace one of these babies? it's attached to the motherboard too right?
Can anyone give me some hope? Shed some light on this matter?
Thanks
(Random pic off the net to show the part.)
ambientmystic
Member
Does your laptop have one of those Windows 7 stickers (COA) with the serial etched into it on its bottom panel? If you have those numbers you can do a clean install of the OS and activate your installation using the key on the sticker.
Legitimate Windows 7 with SP1 ISOs can be obtained here. (It's the Microsoft Digital River installation media, totally legit, and you need to activate it anyway.)
Once you have the ISO, you can use it to make a bootable USB stick Windows installer by using this tool:-
Windows 7 USB DVD Download Tool
A USB stick with a minimum capacity of 4 GB is required.
criesofthepast
Member
Anyone know how to secure erase an SSD for sale? I'm selling my iMac and apparently the disc utility zero erase is NOT intended for SSD's. What should I be doing to securely erase everything before I sell the computer?
It did, but the numbers are so faded that they're unreadable now.
I've got two WiFis at home: One router is 802.11n-only (no dual band mode) for my Macs and iPad, the other one is 802.11g-only (for the computers of my parents and my old iPhone 3GS). They're connected via LAN.
My problem is that applications running on a computer connected to one network don't discover devices from the other network by themselves. For example, iTunes does now show my iPhone, which is connected to the other WiFi. And in the opposite direction, the iPhone does not see my Plex/XBMC servers. Manually entering IPs does not work, though of course I can ping devices.
How exactly do I have to configure the routers? What is the setting I have to look for? UPnP is enabled on both. Do I have to set up port forwarding or something?
My problem is that applications running on a computer connected to one network don't discover devices from the other network by themselves. For example, iTunes does now show my iPhone, which is connected to the other WiFi. And in the opposite direction, the iPhone does not see my Plex/XBMC servers. Manually entering IPs does not work, though of course I can ping devices.
How exactly do I have to configure the routers? What is the setting I have to look for? UPnP is enabled on both. Do I have to set up port forwarding or something?
Try this: http://www.lowlevelformat.info/zero-filling.aspx
I haven't tried since i don't have a SSD. But is the only one i could find
You can secure erase within Linux. It worked great for me. You can google a guide that OCZ has.
EatinOlives
Member
I asked this on gaming side but it's probably better off here:
What's a good way of finding precisely the health of a hard drive? I have my suspicions that one of my hard drives is failing but most all the disk checking programs either tell you "your hard drive is 100% functional" or "it's fucked". No in between. Last time a hard drive of mine failed, every program except for 1 told me there was something wrong even though I knew there was something wrong, and I can't remember which one it was.
What's a good way of finding precisely the health of a hard drive? I have my suspicions that one of my hard drives is failing but most all the disk checking programs either tell you "your hard drive is 100% functional" or "it's fucked". No in between. Last time a hard drive of mine failed, every program except for 1 told me there was something wrong even though I knew there was something wrong, and I can't remember which one it was.
criesofthepast
Member
Thanks guys but I'm on a Mac. If I just add a bunch of dummy data to fill the drive, enable trim, format and re-Install OSX, do you think that would be enough?
Johnny Cage In The Shower
Member
Hey thanks for the reply, I am in Vancouver BC, Canada, honestly 30 to 50 bucks doesn't sound much, considering how much I use(d) the HDMI out on my laptop
But yeah, It sounds like something complicated, and I am too insecure to trust any computer technician here, they could tell me anything and try to rip me off. But if I could fix the issue for under $50, I'll be very happy.
Thanks again for the response.
To start, on both your iPad and iPhone, go to Settings-Wifi and tap the arrow beside the connected wifi network name. Post the IP address, subnet and gateway for each device. That'll give me a basic idea as to how you have the disparate networks configured. Also, how do the wifi routers get Internet access? Are they each plugged in to a separare switch port of your Internet modem/router?
My gut feeling is that it may only require a quick change of your subnetting to get the results you want with the least amount of changes to configs.
Thank you, but in the meantime I've decided to get a new router instead. I'm fed up with my current, shitty setup. I didn't even mention that there's actually a third router involved, acting as a repeater as the signal of one of the others is too weak. I want to have a single, flexible and powerful device and would appreciate some recommendations.
Basically, the only obligatory requirements are:
- 802.11n support with dual-band mode
- Possibility to force specific clients to use the 5GHz bandwidth. This is because my notebook suffers from interferences when using 2.4GHz if Bluetooth is active.
Compatibility with DD-WRT or OpenWRT would be nice, but is no must if the preinstalled firmware is flexible enough for my needs.
Price doesn't really matter, but I'd prefer something less than 150€.
edit: The ASUS RT-N66U sounds great.
Alright so I'm trying to figure out what the hell is up with logitech headsets. The last 2 I have bought (2 different products) have eventually broke to where I only get sound out of the left ear. At first I thought it was my soundcard itself because it's crappy, but my speakers and non-Logitech headphones work fine. This last headset I bought broke within a month, is there some compatibility issue that could be at work here or are the Logitech headsets ass?
Probably the bold part
CrystalDiskInfo is ugly as sin but it works quite well for me.
By chance any suggestion on what brand to go with preferably something on the cheap end.
ambientmystic
Member
Seconded. Great functionality coupled with a rather hideous UI. Freeware.
Hello TechSupportGAF,
I got a question about cookies. Let's say you have two people using the same computer, using the same browser software to access some site which stores separate cookies for the two users. My understanding is that if one the users clears their internet history and cache, they will overwrite both of the sets of data for the two users. Is that right?
And let's say that they're both accessing the same website on the same computer on the same browser, but are doing this under separate Windows user names. Are the cookie settings at that point, independent of each other?
I got a question about cookies. Let's say you have two people using the same computer, using the same browser software to access some site which stores separate cookies for the two users. My understanding is that if one the users clears their internet history and cache, they will overwrite both of the sets of data for the two users. Is that right?
And let's say that they're both accessing the same website on the same computer on the same browser, but are doing this under separate Windows user names. Are the cookie settings at that point, independent of each other?
ambientmystic
Member
AFAIK, Depending on the browser software used, the answer could be yes or no. To both your questions.
For example, Firefox by default holds seperate profiles for each seperate Windows user on the computer that uses Firefox, which contains all the settings, preferences, addons, cookies and other customizations. So, what one user does is completely independent of the other.
If they're both using the same Windows username, then yes, obviously it will overwrite the data. You can still avoid this by making a seperate Firefox profile for the other user sharing your Windows username, and making that user start up Firefox with their own create Firefox profile.
(Multiple Firefox profiles can be created for as many users as you wish, all independent of the other)
The main program files are unaltered, only changed if an upgrade is done either automatically or manually by an administrator (or even a normal user, if you allowed Firefox to install its Update Maintainence Service).
I'm not so familiar with the machinations of IE, Opera or Chrome however.
Thanks for the help, your answer helped clear things up. I'm going to assume that the other modern browsers work similarly to Firefox in that regard.
Take the hard drive out and try plugging it into the new PC?
Is there any kind of external adapter that can read a hard drive and transfer data over usb or something?
Sure, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817821017
Something like that should help, my personal choice is this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156017 since i use it for several types of devices is a great choice
kryptikjoker
Member
I've been having issues recently with my PC connected to my HDTV. Intermittently, without any rhyme or reason, my HDTV will flicker to black, then return to whatever was displayed about 3 seconds later. I tried troubleshooting my RAM by running MemTest, without any issue. I reinstalled Windows 8 and reseated my video card, but this still occurs. Any suggestions as to how to remedy and troubleshot this issue?
ambientmystic
Member
This may sound silly, but have you tried using a different cable to discount the possibility of a faulty cable?
Adobe Soundbooth/Audition experts...
I have two tracks. One is the audio from a GTAV trailer. The other is the song that plays in the background of the trailer. Is there a way within Sb/Au to remove the song form the trailer (GTAV audio track)? I figure there's got to be a way for it to recognize the two sounds are the same and the delete the one from the other. Sorry, I do not know how to describe this in technical terms, I do not use the program much.
I have two tracks. One is the audio from a GTAV trailer. The other is the song that plays in the background of the trailer. Is there a way within Sb/Au to remove the song form the trailer (GTAV audio track)? I figure there's got to be a way for it to recognize the two sounds are the same and the delete the one from the other. Sorry, I do not know how to describe this in technical terms, I do not use the program much.
For some reason this started pulling up when I click pictures.
I think it might have happened after my pc had to restart because it encountered a problem.
Any idea what happened or how I could get my pictures back?
Are the pictures still there? The message just looks as if the library shortcut is borked. Deleting the library shortcut and restoring the default libraries should help: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...-working/65a0d619-db60-4309-9d36-7d3584bc811d
Vipershark
Member
I saw a tutorial on YouTube that explained how to do this with Audacity.
Essentially you sync the two music tracks up to the exact same location, then take the instrumental track (or the one that doesnt have the audio that you're trying to isolate) and invert its waveform. In other words, all the highs become lows and vice versa. Then when you play it, the inverted waveforms cancel each other out, leaving you with an acapella.
It's not perfect and there's probably a better way to do it, but it worked well in the video I watched.
So I made a bit of a mistake just now; I tried to move a folder up one directory in Linux terminal and for some reason I typed "sudo mv foldername ../". Where did I just send this folder? My brain for some reason thought that was a good command to type.
EDIT: See now I'm confused, because I created a new folder, performed the same command and it just moved it up one level. The original folder is nowhere to be seen though.
EDIT2: I managed to recover the web style sheet I had in there as the page was still loaded in Firefox on my Windows PC. So no lasting damage done.
EDIT: See now I'm confused, because I created a new folder, performed the same command and it just moved it up one level. The original folder is nowhere to be seen though.
EDIT2: I managed to recover the web style sheet I had in there as the page was still loaded in Firefox on my Windows PC. So no lasting damage done.
ChubbyHuggs
Member
I don't want to make a new thread, because it's not that important. Looking at new PCs for just everyday use, maybe a little bit of Adobe Suite stuff, and I've settled on Gateways.
My question is, is this worth it?
http://us.gateway.com/gw/en/US/content/model/DT.GE3AA.001
My question is, is this worth it?
http://us.gateway.com/gw/en/US/content/model/DT.GE3AA.001
Question for the Excel gurus here:
Let's say I have some text file that I want to import into a spreadsheet. This text file appears in the following format:
Don't about the column headers, those are only there to point that the fields are discrete units; I just want the data from the second line. Note that there is no clear space between the fields, the only spaces occur within the fields. When I copy and paste this into a spreadsheet, Excel is not aware that these are discrete units, they just look like one really long cell. Is there any way I can "tab out" the data, so that it shows up in the proper cells, given that I know where the discrete units begin and end? I'm sure there's an easy way to do this, I just never use Excel and my google-fu sucks right now.
Let's say I have some text file that I want to import into a spreadsheet. This text file appears in the following format:
Code:
NAME STREET ZIP CITY STATE PHONE
JIM SMITH1234 HAPPY VALLEY ST90101SAN FRANCISCOCALIFORNIA5551234Don't about the column headers, those are only there to point that the fields are discrete units; I just want the data from the second line. Note that there is no clear space between the fields, the only spaces occur within the fields. When I copy and paste this into a spreadsheet, Excel is not aware that these are discrete units, they just look like one really long cell. Is there any way I can "tab out" the data, so that it shows up in the proper cells, given that I know where the discrete units begin and end? I'm sure there's an easy way to do this, I just never use Excel and my google-fu sucks right now.
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
I'm looking for a Torx set. Needs to have a T6 and T10. Any cheap and decent recommendations?
About a week or so ago I started getting this error on my prepaid cell phone carrier's page. I've tried different browsers and my phone (using my wifi connection) but nothing changes. Apparently the website works fine for other people so I think it may be related to my ISP or something. Can someone who understands this stuff explain what the error basically is saying and if there is a way to fix the problem? I need to pay my next months cell phone bill in a few days or my service will get cut off.
Straight up hardware question.
I have a Lenovo 3000 N100 (0768-A52) laptop. The tech specs say maximum of 2GB RAM. Is that true? I feel like, back when I was building systems back in the 1990s, there would be cases where companies would say a system supported only a certain value for RAM but it would unofficially support more.
Specs, for your reading:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-63446
Thanks, guys.
I have a Lenovo 3000 N100 (0768-A52) laptop. The tech specs say maximum of 2GB RAM. Is that true? I feel like, back when I was building systems back in the 1990s, there would be cases where companies would say a system supported only a certain value for RAM but it would unofficially support more.
Specs, for your reading:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-63446
Thanks, guys.
ambientmystic
Member
Straight up hardware question.
I have a Lenovo 3000 N100 (0768-A52) laptop. The tech specs say maximum of 2GB RAM. Is that true? I feel like, back when I was building systems back in the 1990s, there would be cases where companies would say a system supported only a certain value for RAM but it would unofficially support more.
Specs, for your reading:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-63446
Thanks, guys.
In this case, it could be a manufacturer's (Lenovo) imposed limitation in the BIOS/hardware.
I just had a look up at crucial.com (RAM experts and manufacturer) for your laptop model and the maximum supported RAM on your system/mobo is 2GB. (in the 2GBx1stick or 1GBx2sticks configurations)
However, Intel states that your laptop's mobo (Intel 945GM chipset ) is capable of supporting 4GB RAM.
So while Lenovo and crucial both say 2 GB RAM, Intel says 4 GB RAM, which supports the initial statement.
so if th motherboard supports it but Lenovo hobbled it, what should I do? Go with 4GB and see if it works?
Thanks a ton for checking. Would not have occurred to me to check the chipset specs.
ambientmystic
Member
Thanks. I may have some in an old laptop I had forgotten about, so it may be simpler than I originally thought!
Kccitystar
Member
Okay so I bought an Intel 180GB SSD for my Windows 8 laptop. It's an HP laptop so it has a bunch of partitions and no recovery discs.
What I want to do is use the SSD as my main drive with Windows 8 and all the apps I use, and keep the 500gb as a spare drive. However, the problem I am dealing with is copying everything over. I dont know how to copy the 500GB drive and its partitions over to the SSD and activate the recovery partition from there to format/install a clean copy of W8. I tried clonezilla for the past few hours and nothing. Given that the drive is smaller than 500GB I expected problems but not of this magnitude
Any help would gladly be appreciated, GAF
What I want to do is use the SSD as my main drive with Windows 8 and all the apps I use, and keep the 500gb as a spare drive. However, the problem I am dealing with is copying everything over. I dont know how to copy the 500GB drive and its partitions over to the SSD and activate the recovery partition from there to format/install a clean copy of W8. I tried clonezilla for the past few hours and nothing. Given that the drive is smaller than 500GB I expected problems but not of this magnitude
Any help would gladly be appreciated, GAF
Is there a way to force an application to ignore Windows' proxy settings?
Here my problem. At work we use a proxy for all work related stuff and general internet use. Everything works fine except for iTunes. Everytime I try to open itunes the app will crash right away. I found out a couple of days ago that if I go in my Internet Options and uncheck the automatic setting box in the proxy settings iTunes will boot fine and work perfectly (even download stuff from the store without issues). The moment I re-enable the proxy iTunes will crash. Obviously I can't really live without the proxy since it's needed for everything else but this is really annoying and I miss my podcasts!
So, is there a way to force a specific app in Windows to ignore the general proxy settings and connect directly to the web?
Here my problem. At work we use a proxy for all work related stuff and general internet use. Everything works fine except for iTunes. Everytime I try to open itunes the app will crash right away. I found out a couple of days ago that if I go in my Internet Options and uncheck the automatic setting box in the proxy settings iTunes will boot fine and work perfectly (even download stuff from the store without issues). The moment I re-enable the proxy iTunes will crash. Obviously I can't really live without the proxy since it's needed for everything else but this is really annoying and I miss my podcasts!
So, is there a way to force a specific app in Windows to ignore the general proxy settings and connect directly to the web?
Kccitystar
Member
Figured out how to migrate everything last night onto the SSD. Feels good man.
BIGWORM
Member
Welcome to the SSD club, man. I just bought an Intel 520 series 120GB Saturday for my rig, and installed Win7 clean on it. Boot up time makes my rig fly out the window, it's so fast.