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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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MaizeRage25 said:
Just pulled the trigger on a T2i. Gotta take lots of pictures of this guy:

Sonogram%252520-%25252010wks.jpg
you're having a gummi bear?
 

Hcoregamer00

The 'H' stands for hentai.
chaostrophy said:
Canon rebates tend to be a good deal, I've bought pretty much all my lenses on rebate.

You know, I didn't think I'd ever get to this point...but right now I have all the lenses I want. There are really no more that I feel I need.

Canon rebates are awesome when they lower the price enough for the right lens. I remember spending $1,300 on the 50L because the winter rebates of last year lowered it by that much. I was on the fence with that lens, but with such a great price (and it was a lens I pined for) I had to get it.

I also bought the 24-70L and 60D on a spring rebate.

In short, I agree with you. Those rebates work well especially when the lower the price enough for what you want.

MaizeRage25 said:
Just pulled the trigger on a T2i. Gotta take lots of pictures of this guy:

Sonogram%252520-%25252010wks.jpg

That is awesome, I also suggest getting a fixed prime lens for the little fellow once he is born.

Can't go wrong with the nifty fifty or the 85 f1.8.
 
Topher said:
I have a T2i, and am going to upgrade to a Sigma 30mm (I think) from the stock 18-55mm can. My question is: why is this fixed focus Sigma considered better than the 18-55? Perhaps a stupid question, but I am a bit of a novice.

Your zoom lens is designed to be a jack-of-all-trades: it has to perform at 18mm, 55mm, and everything in between, so there are lots of trade-offs and compromises that are made in designing the internal lens groupings and mechanical elements. A fixed focal length lens like the Sigma 30 is more of a specialist, it is designed to do one thing (30mm optics) very well and without compromise.
 
Hcoregamer00 said:
That is awesome, I also suggest getting a fixed prime lens for the little fellow once he is born.

Can't go wrong with the nifty fifty or the 85 f1.8.

I was thinking the 50mm/f1.8. Only about $120 and should be pretty good for baby portraits.
 
So I set Auto-ISO Sensitivity to 1600 for when I'm in low light conditions. Is this wise? I have my default ISO setting at 200. The camera should only override when it feels it needs to, right?
 

Flo_Evans

Member
DoctorWho said:
So I set Auto-ISO Sensitivity to 1600 for when I'm in low light conditions. Is this wise? I have my default ISO setting at 200. The camera should only override when it feels it needs to, right?

If you have it on autoISO yes.

It depends on the action though. If shooting handheld and trying to take pictures of people crank it up. You will get more noise, which the camera should (if left default) try and smooth out with some blur. Turn off "high ISO noise reduction" to keep the noise (and detail) intact. Much better to do NR latter after you can see it than the camera doing a blanket blur of the image. If you have a tripod (and nothing is moving) you can leave the iso low and do a long exposure.
 
I figured this would be the best place to ask this, if not, then could someone point me in the right direction?

I'm looking at finally buying a camera after not having one for a couple years now and have no idea where to start. One of my friends suggested this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M8SVBQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20 as something to start out with. Now I'd like something relatively inexpensive, but I also want something halfway decent that I can take good pictures with.

Wouldn't mind getting into photography as a hobby, as I'm looking for a new hobby to get into with my free time.

Any help is appreciated.
 
Flo_Evans said:
If you have it on autoISO yes.

It depends on the action though. If shooting handheld and trying to take pictures of people crank it up. You will get more noise, which the camera should (if left default) try and smooth out with some blur. Turn off "high ISO noise reduction" to keep the noise (and detail) intact. Much better to do NR latter after you can see it than the camera doing a blanket blur of the image. If you have a tripod (and nothing is moving) you can leave the iso low and do a long exposure.

What bugs me is that Auto-ISO doesn't get overridden when I'm using Flash. I imagine that could be a problem.
 
Notrollious said:
I figured this would be the best place to ask this, if not, then could someone point me in the right direction?

I'm looking at finally buying a camera after not having one for a couple years now and have no idea where to start. One of my friends suggested this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M8SVBQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20 as something to start out with. Now I'd like something relatively inexpensive, but I also want something halfway decent that I can take good pictures with.

Wouldn't mind getting into photography as a hobby, as I'm looking for a new hobby to get into with my free time.

Any help is appreciated.

Im in a similar boat. Id like to pick up a new camera for cheap but thats halfway decent. Any suggestions?
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Any of you guys know of a good program or way to recover data from an SD Card? I went to a event over the weekend and took tons of videos and pictures only to come home and found out my card got corrupted. Some of those pictures were priceless. It really saddens me. I tried everything I knew to get it working. I have the worse luck when it comes to these things.
 
Kadey said:
Any of you guys know of a good program or way to recover data from an SD Card? I went to a event over the weekend and took tons of videos and pictures only to come home and found out my card got corrupted. Some of those pictures were priceless. It really saddens me. I tried everything I knew to get it working. I have the worse luck when it comes to these things.
Try Recuva.
 

Mercutio

Member
I really did like the 7D's body, and the feature set is absolutely amazing. I know a lot people are happy with it, so I don't want to step on any toes. I was using a 17-40L and a 50mm 1.8 II with it; they work very well on 5D with no issue. Though I certainly find myself using the 24-105 L a lot more... the 17-40 is simply a little too wide and short a zoom range to be useful for me on a full frame I think.

Specifically, I found that even with focus confirmation the things I was focusing on weren't in focus or a touch soft when even slightly enlarged. That isn't to say that it was always this way... one out of every ten shots roughly was in proper focus. And that's the really tough thing about the 7D for the two weeks I had one (though a different one per week, due to the returns). When the stars aligned and it worked properly, it was really quite nice.

In retrospect, I think the focusing system on both cameras was probably not aligned correctly; this combined with what can be a soft image in many exposure situations.

Counter to this, without changing the way I shoot and the glass I'm using, I'm able to get results like this with the 5D Mark II:

IMG_1315.JPG


IMG_1106.JPG


IMG_1155.JPG


I've only had it about a week, and I'm still figuring things out, but I'm happy with my messing around and results so far.
 

Mercutio

Member
luoapp said:
Mercutio, did you try 7D's micro-focus adjust function?

I did. It improved things a little but didn't get me all the way there... and I don't feel like I should have to dive into menus every time I attach a new lens.
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
CrudeDiatribe said:
Have used PhotoRec successfully on Mac and Linux computers. There's a version for Windows/DOS as well.

Wow. This really works. To think there are companies out trying to make money off of you by selling programs or having you send your physical media. I tried some of that stuff. Even bought Undelete but none of them really works.
You have no idea how happy I am because of this. Thank you and Jay for helping me out.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Mercutio said:
I did. It improved things a little but didn't get me all the way there... and I don't feel like I should have to dive into menus every time I attach a new lens.
It doesn't save your focus compensation? I feel like I need to benchmark my 7d now. I never had any problems with it, but I haven't used it as much as my nikons.
 

tino

Banned
Notrollious said:
I figured this would be the best place to ask this, if not, then could someone point me in the right direction?

I'm looking at finally buying a camera after not having one for a couple years now and have no idea where to start. One of my friends suggested this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M8SVBQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20 as something to start out with. Now I'd like something relatively inexpensive, but I also want something halfway decent that I can take good pictures with.

Wouldn't mind getting into photography as a hobby, as I'm looking for a new hobby to get into with my free time.

Any help is appreciated.

At that price point, you can't honestly expect a half way decent camera. Unless you are willing to buy a used Fujifilm F200EXR (why Fuji? because they have lower used price.) I can't even recommend an used LX3.
 

Combichristoffersen

Combovers don't work when there is no hair
CrudeDiatribe said:
Have used PhotoRec successfully on Mac and Linux computers. There's a version for Windows/DOS as well.

I recommend PhotoRec too. I used the Windows version just the other day to recover photos from a HD that had, for some reason, suddenly gone from having NTFS partitions to having RAW partitions. It was kinda clunky to use until I got the hang of it, but once I did, it worked like a charm, and I managed to save all the photos.
 
Kadey said:
Thank you and Jay for helping me out.

You're welcome! Discovered it 5-6 years ago when my cousin formatted the family camera at the end of their vacation.

Combichristoffersen said:
I recommend PhotoRec too. I used the Windows version just the other day to recover photos from a HD that had, for some reason, suddenly gone from having NTFS partitions to having RAW partitions.

I helped a friend in a far-off city use it to recover an entire HDD on his wife's laptop. He didn't have a USB enclosure or the right cables to plug it into his PC tower, so had him put a live CD of Ubuntu on the laptop and we used Photorec to pull the files off it to a SMB share on his PC.

It was still hairy enough that I think he's looking into backup solutions.

In less stellar HDD rescuing stories, I accidentally started restoring a dead drive to my co-worker's 'C' drive instead of the waiting replacement drive. Block-by-block. Idiot.
 

Mercutio

Member
Flo_Evans said:
It doesn't save your focus compensation? I feel like I need to benchmark my 7d now. I never had any problems with it, but I haven't used it as much as my nikons.

It does save each lens, but the issue was more... having to compensate for every single lens by a significant amount. And even then, still not getting sharp images.

In comparison, the 5DII hasn't required a single tweak with the exact same lenses.

Here's a pretty good example of the issue after tweaking the lens with the otherwise super sharp 50mm. I'm using spot focus here, selecting my point manually as I always do.

This is a hinge I found:
hinge.jpg


Things seem okay when it's at this size, but let's go into the rounded edge of the hinge, which is what I was focusing on.

crop.jpg


Still back focusing significantly... and this is after making pretty major adjustments. On top of that, it's still relatively soft.

I had this issue with every lens, in pretty much every picture. It was a bummer.
 

cbox

Member
I'm finding my 7d to be quite soft in areas too... and I have a 17-55 which is supposed to be incredibly sharp.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
It looks like it focused a few mm behind the end... It also looks like you had the lens wide open, which will never produce the sharpest image. A fast lens is bending a huge amount of light to a relatively small sensor. You need to stop it down to "straighten" the light. At that distance and aperture even just your breathing can move the focal plane.

The focus box in the viewfinder is actually much smaller then the area the AF sees. For critical macro shots like that, manual is the only way to go. A tripod may be required unless you have a very steady hand.

Now I suspect why you find the 5d sharper is a combo of 2 things. 1, it is sharper! 2, by the nature of a crop sensor, a 50mm lens is wider angle on a FF, and easier to hold steady.
 

alphaNoid

Banned
ConvenientBox said:
I'm finding my 7d to be quite soft in areas too... and I have a 17-55 which is supposed to be incredibly sharp.
17-55 and the 24-70 are probably the 2 best options for all around lenses for the 7D, that is IMO. However, even my 7D took some getting used to. I thought my lens was a little soft but it really isn't. The 7D is no 5DMII and a zoom lens is no prime.

If you want uber sharp, you have to sacrifice zoom for a prime. I'm looking at a nifty fifty (50mm 1.4) but may settle for the 85mm 1.8 due to cost.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
I gotta ask at what size are you printing shit out that it is even an issue? 99% of my photos get raped by facebook resizing and .jpg compression. The other 1% get printed at 4x6. And I own a printer that can do 46"x infinity. I don't have enough wall space to hang 500 huge ass prints.

To tell you the truth Mercutio, that hinge photo would of been worse if the focal plane was on the end cap. 7d did you a favor :p
 
tino said:
At that price point, you can't honestly expect a half way decent camera. Unless you are willing to buy a used Fujifilm F200EXR (why Fuji? because they have lower used price.) I can't even recommend an used LX3.

Well that's what he had recommended. I can go to $300. Just wanted to see what would be worth the money I'd spend.
 

Mercutio

Member
I think I did, in retrospect, pick a poor example of the softness issue.

I'll have to go through the photos that came out really poorly tonight when I'm back from work. I picked the hinge as an example because I'd already had it online with a closer shot of problematic areas. Even with the plane of focus in the wrong area, I still feel like the areas that are in focus are incredibly soft even when zooming into the image slightly. And yeah, the hinge is wide open, but I've got so many other images at 2.8 or 4 that were still quite soft in the areas I'd planned to focus on.

I dunno. The 5D Mark II is probably not the best camera to compare to. I'm simply looking for a leap in image quality from the D200 and GF1 I've previously owned and am comparing directly to: both with wide open lenses of roughly the same focal length left me with sharp and pleasing images. I just don't feel like the 7D was capable of the same, and was very frustrated by it.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Fair enough, I just think to call the 7d "soft" is a little off base. Maybe because I grew up shooting film I have a different tolerance for softness. I am constantly blown away by what modern DSLRs can do.

Of course my d7000 is producing shit like this all the time:



So I feel no need to go full frame. ;)
 

Mercutio

Member
So this is interesting. Here's the data for that hinge shot:


Camera: Canon EOS 7D
Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/5
Focal Length: 50 mm
ISO Speed: 400

That lens is crazy sharp at f/5 on my 5D.
I'm hunting through my files for other examples of softness.
 

Mercutio

Member
Here's one that struck me as kind of funny. And I'm not normally a pixel peeper... I think this is the first time I've ever really cared. For an image as large as the 7D produces, I think this is kind of odd.

IMG_0412.JPG


Now, zooming in on that house to 100%:

IMG_0412_crop.jpg


Maybe it's kind of cruel to go in that far, but I've cut into 5DII and D200 images that were quite similar and they've always been pretty sharp. Here's the info on this one:

Camera: Canon EOS 7D
Exposure: 0.003 sec (1/320)
Aperture: f/5.6
Focal Length: 50 mm
ISO Speed: 400

Then I started hunting around online, and I really started to feel like it was similar to the issues described here:

http://darwinwiggett.wordpress.com/2009/11/11/the-canon-7d/
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
It's pretty unfair to compare cropping into shots from a APS-C sensor to a full frame. The 5D2 not only has more megapixels than the 7D, but also has 2.5x the sensor area. Even a plain old 5D should have more detail in crops than APS-C.

That being said, there's been enough reports of soft images out of the 7D that I do think it's a bigger problem compared to other Canon DSLRs. A proper 7D shouldn't produce photos like the ones you've been posting.
 

Mercutio

Member
Oh sure, no question the 5DII unfair, but my D200 consistently gave me clear and crisp shots in comparison to the 7D, even cropped way down.

orange_bird.JPG


Camera: NIKON D200
Exposure: 0.013 sec (1/80)
Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 200
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Reading about it and seeing examples it does seem like an overly aggressive AA filter. Strong enough that it looks like a haze instead of just smearing of small detail. Some sharpening is required though (when manipulating the RAW image) to clear it up.

With that said photos where most of the image is at Infinity can be quite tricky for most AF systems. It'll focus once and lock and if its off by just a little the whole image becomes out of focus. Your example with the hinge doesn't instill confidence in how the 7D's AF was calibrated, looked to be back focusing a bit (and this can translate to photos that are off at Infinity).

Just out of curiosity here's a shot I know is pretty sharp at Infinity with my Zeiss 50/1.7 stopped down to f/8 (definitely outresolves the sensor which is 8 Mega pixels)...

il06MK.jpg


Exposure: 1/640s
Aperture: f/8
ISO: 100

No RAW sharpening: http://k.min.us/ilwiao.JPG
RAW sharpening +3: http://k.min.us/il04EC.JPG

And here's one that sort of has the same scenario as your lake photo. This was handheld at 1/60s though...

ilwEco.JPG


Exposure: 1/60s
Aperture: f/5.6
ISO: 400

No RAW sharpening: http://k.min.us/il0Uso.JPG
RAW sharpening +3: http://k.min.us/il0W0w.JPG

It looks subtle but I honestly believe when sharpening at the RAW level is applied and used in conjunction with good sharpening actions with Photoshop it can really help with a camera that has a strong AA filter. With that said I think the most offensive thing about the 7D is what it seems to be doing to contrast. It looks to be much less punchy than some other Canon bodies but that doesn't change the fact that I've seen some amazing photos from it (I believe mrkgoo shoots with one, phenomenal Landscape photos from him).
 

Mercutio

Member
It does break my heart to knock the 7D at all. I REALLY liked the body, but then, I like the 5D body just as much.

I know with a lot of work I could get what I wanted out of the RAW files with it, but only after Canon adjusted the focusing system. And really, he hinge was on the first 7D, and the lake house was on the second though; so this is an issue that is relatively widespread.

I found myself sitting there, looking at my second 7D and its images and then the comment boards where people had sent 3-5 bodies back to Canon for adjustment. Some people eventually got the camera they wanted, but the hassle would have been just too time consuming.

Taking the second 7D back and paying the full frame "tax" and getting a camera that did everything I wanted was totally worth it.
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
Agreed, once you go full-frame it's really hard to go back. Besides the AF, I think I could use the 5D2 forever. I'm consistently amazed by it.
 
After you tried two I can't fault you giving up on the 7D. Canon's QC has always been questionable. I went through three 10Ds before finding a good one and two 40Ds (one of which was just hopeless when it came to AF, much worse than your hinge example). However I got lucky with my 7D and the first one nailed autofocus every time out of the box.

With the right glass, the 7D can be WICKED sharp. It's much better than my 40D ever was. A few examples from my stuff:

Canon 10-22 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beowulf99/4822104377/):
WestcoastWheel1024_6078.jpg


Canon 100-400L (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beowulf99/4895573163/):
Corsair1024_8536.jpg


Canon 100-400L (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beowulf99/5541737671/):
Supermoon917_0318.jpg
 

Mercutio

Member
And the hinge picture is AFTER adjusting the AF.

And your pictures look fantastic... that's exactly the kind of stuff I saw before buying the first 7D. Sharp and colorful, with that Canon "pop" that I wanted while I had Nikon gear. I took a look at the shots mrkgoo took of his cat way early in this thread too. Beautiful, down to every hair.

I'm not sure what is going on at Canon Japan, but it seems like the 7D is kind of a crapshoot. If you get a good one, it's the best damned crop-frame camera around; but if you don't you might be in for a long road.
 

tokkun

Member
^^^ Aren't those images post-processed for higher sharpness, though? The moon picture definitely appears to have had a sharpening filter put on at some point based on the look of the lower edges.

Anyway, it sounds like you're not entirely sure whether the lack of sharpness you saw was due solely to the AF or if there was some other contributor. Isn't there an easy way to determine that by switching to manual focusing?
 

Mercutio

Member
tokkun said:
^^^ Aren't those images post-processed for higher sharpness, though? The moon picture definitely appears to have had a sharpening filter put on at some point based on the look of the lower edges.

Anyway, it sounds like you're not entirely sure whether the lack of sharpness you saw was due solely to the AF or if there was some other contributor. Isn't there an easy way to determine that by switching to manual focusing?


For me, the AF was faulty and MF did a better job, but images still looked soft.

Actually, looking at the ferris wheel picture, what is the main point of focus? The trees to the left and right look a little soft, and there's either very aggressive sharpening around the wheel or really bad compression.
 

Sennorin

Banned
Question: I´ll probably buy the Canon 600D (good choice/bad choice for the price range?), and I often heard people say that the kit lense sucks. If so, what lense would you recommend a photographing beginner? thx
 

cbox

Member
This was literally the first picture I took with my 17-55 with 7d, and the ball with the nifty fifty a bit later on.

4651735028_1dfdb14c85_o.jpg
4940049316_078e89364c_o.jpg


Full 1.0 crop and this is one of the sharpest images I've seen, light is key.
 
Sorry, I didn't mean to imply there was no post-processing on any of those images. I never upload anything without post, I consider it essential on all DSLR shots (probably doesn't need to be as heavy on a good FF like the 5D2 though). My point was just that you can achieve perfectly good final results with the 7D. I'm not trying to say it's better than a 5D2.

The leaves are a bit soft in the wheel shot for two reasons: one, my copy of the 10-22 is abnormally soft at the edges (I should send it in for service really but I use it too much), and two, the FOV stretching effect is occurring on the red leaves at the right as they were quite close to the camera (DOF is likely coming in to play too). The shot is at 13mm.

The moon is heavily sharpened of course, probably over-sharpened, but then it is hundreds of thousands of kilometers away through a whole atmosphere and photographed with consumer equipment by a rank amateur :) But if you'd told me 10 years ago I could take a photo like that I'd have laughed, it's amazing how much flexibility our equipment can give us now.
 
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