Any opinion on the Dx 40mm Macro lens? I want to take some close up of my newborn daughter. I have a D7000. N
Yeah I have the 35mm Dx 1.8 already.Personally I would pick up the 50mm 1.8 since you can autofocus with it or just save up for the 60mm. It's similar in size, not a pancake like the Canon 40mm and at that focal point for a macro you might cast a shadow on the subject too but that's subjective to how you are using it.
Yeah I have the 35mm Dx 1.8 already.
Any opinion on the Dx 40mm Macro lens? I want to take some close up of my newborn daughter. I have a D7000. N
I guess this thread may be as good a thread as any other to ask, but for learning how to use Lightroom for someone with no prior experience with the software, would this book be a good introduction?
I read that on mutiple reviews. Longer length mire convinient on the macrosOnly negative thing I have read about it is that you have to get very close in for macro shots so you end up casting a shadow over your subject. That was from Ken Rockwell though so I'd take it maybe with a pinch of salt
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/40mm-f28.htm
I read that on mutiple reviews. Longer length mire convinient on the macros
Hmmmm, extension tubesPersonally I would stick with your 35mm DX, there is only 5mm difference in focal length and its got a few extra stops on the lens as well. Not sure what sort of shots your after but the 35mm will work well enough with a set of extension tubes for allot less money than the 40mm.
This was with a 35mm dx and a 12mm tube
Kenko makes amazing and inexpensive extension tubes. I'm almost positive it's the exact same extension tubes as the Canon brand ones. Kind of like how a lot of Nikon's DX Lenses are actually Tamron lenses.So I guess those nikon extension tubes don't work with dx lenses :/
Yes, very much so.Hold on, are you guys telling me my t2i supports magic lantern?
Great lens for the money.Whats the GAF verdict on the Canon EF 100-400mm L?
Took this photography last week with my Canon 60D but I'm just a beginner at photographing but I were quite happy with it:
Though, I should definitely practice more, probably also with the different settings and modes but for now I just wanna take pictures with my 2 lenses and the basic modes. There seems to be a lot of noise around the tiger, in the background.
So I guess those nikon extension tubes don't work with dx lenses :/
I'm not even into the exposing stuff yet, I don't even know how to change the exposure. I'm gonna play with it though.
I've always wondered if anyone shoots with GXR. The idea is neat but I've never seen a person shooting with it -- seems even more scarce than Pentax shooters...
Great lens for the money.
You can get them off ebay with the electric contacts in the tubes pretty cheap. As there is no glass in them I didn't see the need to spend allot of money.
I think it was these ones I got and they work fine with my 35mm dx lens (and all my other DX lenses)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Focu...sion_Tubes&hash=item1c1cd655cb#ht_7017wt_1110
Magnification ratio = (extension tube length +((lens focal length)**2/((subject distance)-(focal length))))/focal length
... or at least that's as close as I can get it from the instructions that came with my Kenco tubes ...
Can't vouch for the maths, but the table derived from it seems to work. Upshot is if you want to do 1:1 macro with a 55-300 lens you'll want to be at the 55mm end and stick 50mm or more of extension tubes behind it. It works for me.
Extension tubes or Bellows: To calculate the effect of a set of tubes you will first need the magnification specifications of the normal lens you will add to the tubes. (Not a macro lens)
Formula: Mm = ((ML x FL)+Ex) / FL
Mm: magnification in macro
ML: magnification of the Lens
FL: focal length of lens
Ex: length of extension tubes
So for the first example we’ll use the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM which has a maximum magnification of 0.15x alone. We will add 62mm of extension tubes to this lens.
1.39 = ((0.15 x 50) + 62) /50 in other words the lens can achieve 1.39x life sized. So you will get a little better than life sized with this setup.
Also I assume the magnification of the lens is calculated at the low end for a zoom? It's 0.28 for the 55-300 dx lens.
Ok guys. I'm now ready to, very sadly, put away my 35mm film cameras ....
Have you looked at the Fujifilm X-Pro1? It's pretty spectacular as a "poor" man's Leica, and it has the lenses you request (35mm f/1.4 and 60mm f/2.4, on an APS-C sensor). Also, there's a 1st party Leica M-adaptor so you can eventually start buying those Leica lenses in anticipation for a future move to a Leica proper.Basically, if I had the money I'd head straight for a leica but alas...
With its rangefinder-inspired looks and prominent manual focus rings on each lens, you might expect the X-Pro1 to be an excellent camera for manual focus work. Unfortunately this isn't the case at all - due to a combination of hardware and firmware issues, manual focus is instead decidedly problematic, to the point of being almost unusable.
Have you looked at the Fujifilm X-Pro1? It's pretty spectacular as a "poor" man's Leica, and it has the lenses you request (35mm f/1.4 and 60mm f/2.4, on an APS-C sensor). Also, there's a 1st party Leica M-adaptor so you can eventually start buying those Leica lenses in anticipation for a future move to a Leica proper.
(I'm usually a Nikon guy when it comes to Reflex)
Ok guys. I'm now ready to, very sadly, put away my 35mm film cameras (well just finding an nice shelve for them, I won't part with my m2 and FM2). Since I don't have a darkroom anymore, I just don't have the will to find the place, time and money to process film...
Question for EOS 7D owners:
Has anyone had luck replacing the standard viewfinder for this camera? I am tired of the issues when shooting manually open above f/2.8 or so. The DoF preview button does not really do anything until almost f/4. I have read that switching out the VF can remedy this. My slowest lens is a 2.8, and when shooting at 1.4 for shallow DoF, it is nearly impossible to get spot-on focus. It's getting increasingly frustrating the more I use it.
My favorite lens is my Zeiss ZE 50mm, but it is manual-only. And frankly, I have had too many poor experiences using the 7D's AF to rely on it much even with my AF lenses.
Using the LCD screen is the easiest way to get focus, but it's not something I can use often in bright sunlight.
One thing that still annoys the piss out of me is that I can get blurry shots -- as in, terrible unfocused unusable disasters of shots -- even when my focus confirmation light is lit up. For a camera that was so praised for its AF system, I have been having a hell of a time getting anything resembling good results from it.
I haven't properly described my problem. It's not that I want the DOF preview to change when used at 1.4. It's that what is shown as in focus through the viewfinder is not what is actually in focus. Until about f/4, the camera does not accurately display DoF. That is, if I am on 1.4, and looking through the viewfinder, I am seeing an image that looks like f/4. It's not until I view the captured image on the LCD that the focus issue is apparent.The DOF preview button engages the aperture blades, so it literally does nothing if you're shooting wide open at 1.4 on a 1.4 lens since the aperture blades are already wide open.
The AF light confirms that it locked focus at one time. If you don't snap the picture at the instant that the light comes on you will probably lose focus when shooting shallow DoF. Tiny movements in your hands will change the focus. It's why people still use the focus beep on DSLRs. Getting sharp focus on a manual lens is not going to be easy at 1.4.
I haven't properly described my problem. It's not that I want the DOF preview to change when used at 1.4. It's that what is shown as in focus through the viewfinder is not what is actually in focus. Until about f/4, the camera does not accurately display DoF. That is, if I am on 1.4, and looking through the viewfinder, I am seeing an image that looks like f/4. It's not until I view the captured image on the LCD that the focus issue is apparent.
Live view works much better, but it is tough to use in sunlight.
As for focus confirmation, I am talking non-moving subject while on a tripod. It locks focus, or focus confirms in the case of MF, yet the image is not properly in focus. It is usually way off. This happens with all my lenses. I get proper focus with my AF lenses perhaps 1/3 of the time.
Have you tried micro adjusting your lenses?Question for EOS 7D owners:
Has anyone had luck replacing the standard viewfinder for this camera? I am tired of the issues when shooting manually open above f/2.8 or so. The DoF preview button does not really do anything until almost f/4. I have read that switching out the VF can remedy this. My slowest lens is a 2.8, and when shooting at 1.4 for shallow DoF, it is nearly impossible to get spot-on focus. It's getting increasingly frustrating the more I use it.
My favorite lens is my Zeiss ZE 50mm, but it is manual-only. And frankly, I have had too many poor experiences using the 7D's AF to rely on it much even with my AF lenses.
Using the LCD screen is the easiest way to get focus, but it's not something I can use often in bright sunlight.
One thing that still annoys the piss out of me is that I can get blurry shots -- as in, terrible unfocused unusable disasters of shots -- even when my focus confirmation light is lit up. For a camera that was so praised for its AF system, I have been having a hell of a time getting anything resembling good results from it.
I have tried micro adjusting without much luck. It seems to be a crap shoot. I don't think it would have any bearing on MF.Have you tried micro adjusting your lenses?
I'm also curious to know if micro adjust works fr manual as in it allows for compensation of the confirm beep to happen at the correct time. Probably nt.
I haven't properly described my problem. It's not that I want the DOF preview to change when used at 1.4. It's that what is shown as in focus through the viewfinder is not what is actually in focus. Until about f/4, the camera does not accurately display DoF. That is, if I am on 1.4, and looking through the viewfinder, I am seeing an image that looks like f/4. It's not until I view the captured image on the LCD that the focus issue is apparent.
(I say 'issue' but am certain it is by design, which is why I ask about swapping viewfinders)
Live view works much better, but it is tough to use in sunlight. Manual focus via live view gives a tack sharp image 100% of the time.
As for focus confirmation, I am talking non-moving subject while on a tripod. It locks focus, or focus confirms in the case of MF, yet the image is not properly in focus. It is usually way off. This happens with all my lenses. I get proper focus with my AF lenses perhaps 1/3 of the time.
The 7D's servo AF should be able to track moving targets, but I have never once had luck with it working. That may be a case of me somehow using it wrong. I've only tried it a few times. But for single shot AF, on a tripod, taking a picture of an orange or something - - that's a function I expect to work without much fuss.
It looks like the 3 E-mount lenses for September are all but confirmed.
http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sr5-new-35mm-f1-8-lens-for-nex-coming/
35mm F1.8
11-18mm pancake
16-50mm pancake (possibly a power zoom)
I'm still a little skeptical that Sony would actually listen to what their consumers want.