shindoku21
Member
It's definitely not the mirror. I can see the dirt on the viewfinder mechanism(?). What should I buy to use to clean it or should I just take it to a shop and let them handle it?
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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
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It's definitely not the mirror. I can see the dirt on the viewfinder mechanism(?). What should I buy to use to clean it or should I just take it to a shop and let them handle it?
mclaren777
Member
From what I understand, the coating is what gives the glass its mirror-like properties, and instead of being permanently fixed, it's more of an oil coating that can easily rub off when touched.
for those of you interested in prints and printing.
Can you tell which was printed on my Epson 7900 and which is printed by a professional lab on Kodak Endura paper?
blog post here.
Can you tell which was printed on my Epson 7900 and which is printed by a professional lab on Kodak Endura paper?
blog post here.
POWERSPHERE
Member
I'm thinking about upgrading my 550D to either a 7D or a 5D MkII. i have a tokina 11-16 and a sigma 30mm, so the 5D mightn't be so good for the tokina, but full frame would be nice.
I also mainly shoot video, can the 5D II do 25, 50, 30 & 60 frames yet? And also do 29.97 instead of 30?
I also mainly shoot video, can the 5D II do 25, 50, 30 & 60 frames yet? And also do 29.97 instead of 30?
mclaren777
Member
That depends: have you started using Magic Lantern yet?
anonymous_abc
Member
for those of you interested in prints and printing.
Can you tell which was printed on my Epson 7900 and which is printed by a professional lab on Kodak Endura paper?
blog post here.
that is quite a marked difference...
thanks for pointing it out
The difference is amazing!
Edit: although, it must be said, the battery charge is dropping at an alarming rate I spent 30 minutes playing with menus and I took eight pictures, yet the battery is already down to 88% from a full charge.
Same battery from your t2i? or a new one?
mclaren777
Member
It's a new model that's supposed to be almost 3x longer lasting.
You can use the Tokina as a 15mm-16mm full frame lens. It's still the cheapest 16mm FF lens.
that is quite a marked difference...
thanks for pointing it out
np. When i first printed it I said holy crap its completely different.
mclaren777
Member
You should have seen the shock/disgust on my face when I saw the price of the Epson 7900.
for those of you interested in prints and printing.
Can you tell which was printed on my Epson 7900 and which is printed by a professional lab on Kodak Endura paper?
blog post here.
well damn. I have an epson 9600... love it to death, but I have to suspect something went terribly wrong at the lab.
2400? With rebates etc. Tax write off for me. Plus i get the benefit of having control over my photos from shooting to print, sans film development. I love printing, for me its the penultimate of my photography. My photo looks good 2000 or less px online, who cares? Printed, with a nice frame or presentation is the winner.
depends on print size and paper type. If i were to charge someone for a print I would do $10-13/sq ft based on paper type.
I have that same print from two different labs on the endura paper, looks the same on both. /shrug
TerryLee81
Member
Same here. And that's without the cost of ink and paper.
I would personally go used:
http://www.canonpricewatch.com/product/02699/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-II-price.html
$1600 for one of the best cameras ever made is hard to beat.
Also, as long as the Mark III remains above $3K, it will continue to float the Mark II to around $1.9-2k (new). I really don't see it dropping for another year.
Add it to your cart. The price will instantly drop to $2499
yea. I actually bought it from BH and had it delivered to Houston.
Are you sending them the digital file or are they reproducing it from the negative?
I just wonder what is going wrong in the process for curiosities sake. To me (kind of hard to tell from the pics of prints) it seems like a total loss of resolution. I am not 100% certain how exactly they print digital files like this on photo paper, but I wonder if the projection system can't handle as much res as you are giving them.
Have you ever gotten a medium format neg exposed on photo paper to compare the difference?
edit: googling around, it looks to me like this is what they use? http://www.de-vere.com/products.htm
that right there could be the problem! I am imagining your scans are WAY higher res than 17MP, otherwise why are you wasting your time/money on a medium format?
I send them the resized jpg file, in this case 10x30" @ 300dpi in adobeRGB(another thing, some labs cant/wont take prophoto) that i generate straight from my Tiff. None of the major labs (WHCC, Meridian, Bay photo etc) will do a film print as you describe. I've never had that done.
But the problem isnt just resolution, its color, the color matches whats on my monitor almost exactly when printed on the 7900. The lab print looks faded when held up next to each other.
The only factor that could drop it down is nikon trying to combat 5dmkii sales by releasing the nikon d600 for $1500.
Having the choice between a 4 year old mkii and a brand new d600, and having just bought the former would suck. And d600 looks real everyday.
Also canon may come back with a cheaper full frame sometime after. Buying 5dmkii now seems very rissssky.
hmm by my calculations (ok I loaded a 30"x10" 300dpi jpg into aperture) that is 27mp...
The color saturation could be down to any number of steps, from improper color space matching/conversion to the tech not exposing the paper long enough, to the chemicals being slightly off.
Anyway enjoy your printer! I always enjoy having as much control over the process as possible. That way there is no question it's done right, and if it looks wrong you can keep tweaking your process until you get it perfect.
Interesting that none of the labs do negative prints anymore. Someone out there has to still do it?
POWERSPHERE
Member
Yeah I use it on my 550D, does MLantern fix the HD out and give you more frame rates on the 5D?
POWERSPHERE
Member
You can use the Tokina as a 15mm-16mm full frame lens. It's still the cheapest 16mm FF lens.
I imagine it'd get pretty barrelly & really vignetted at 11, which could actually be kinda cool for video as an effect.
This may be relevant to your interests:
http://www.dslrfilmnoob.com/2012/08/26/tokina-11-16mm-f2-8-full-frame-camera-wide-angle-fish-eye/
Technosteve
Banned
i can make poster prints with this, what's the maintenance cost on this?
for those of you interested in prints and printing.
Can you tell which was printed on my Epson 7900 and which is printed by a professional lab on Kodak Endura paper?
blog post here.
Interesting stuff, man. Do I see you making fun of Jared Polin in the blog post there too? Ahah.
mclaren777
Member
"Variable frame rates are working (via the advanced menu in Magic Lantern, by default the option is hidden). On my 600D it goes to 35fps in 1080p. The sensor can overheat but you can get some nifty 24p slow mo out of it while it lasts! In tests they've had up to 40fps."
Source
The Sony A99 will completely do away with OVF? Thats kind of crazy.
How much can you make an EVF better than a large OVF anyway? Beside easier to see in low light and maybe real time focus point info?
If Sony is going crazy with the technology, may as well offer 1) eye tracking since Canon is not fucking doing it anymore and 2) make the Sony 3D gaggle into a focus accessory. Separate the control module from the camera body completely.
How much can you make an EVF better than a large OVF anyway? Beside easier to see in low light and maybe real time focus point info?
If Sony is going crazy with the technology, may as well offer 1) eye tracking since Canon is not fucking doing it anymore and 2) make the Sony 3D gaggle into a focus accessory. Separate the control module from the camera body completely.
one of his tags saysken rockwell sucks
oh, did i do that? /oops
Valkyr Junkie
Member
Last year at Photokina a Sony rep basically said Sony was done with traditional SLR (OVF) cameras. I think non-pro SLR bodies themselves are on borrowed time at this point.
radios shipping overview
Member
$300 off on an X-Pro1 and one lens.
New X-Pro1 lenses will have much faster AF because of a new linear motor. I'm guessing there's some kind of internal focusing being used on the new ones.
New X-Pro1 firmware will being faster AF and faster write times.
Kind of tempted by the discount, if they really do manage to tighten up the AF, and especially if the NEX-6 is pokey making it into stores.
New X-Pro1 lenses will have much faster AF because of a new linear motor. I'm guessing there's some kind of internal focusing being used on the new ones.
New X-Pro1 firmware will being faster AF and faster write times.
Kind of tempted by the discount, if they really do manage to tighten up the AF, and especially if the NEX-6 is pokey making it into stores.
After 3 years of shooting with a Canon 18-55mm kit lens i'm looking to upgrade. Next to the kit lens i currently have a 50mm f1.8 and a 55-250mm f4-5.6. I mostly shoot landscapes but like to get a little more into portraits. Since i have a 60D with crop sensor, the 50mm has a little too much zoom.
Which lenses should i look into if i want to upgrade that are not too expensive?
Which lenses should i look into if i want to upgrade that are not too expensive?
50mm is actually kind of short for portraits and the 85mm 1.8 would be ideal. If you mean just general shooting, look into the canon 40mm or sigma 30mm.
I should add just the portraits would be mostly group shots (music awards presentations and stuff like that). Can't seem to fit everyone in well in the limited space available
Maybe 'portraits' isn't a correct description Only with their new lenses though. The new 18-55 specifically.
NathanMcMahon
Banned
Are you looking for a zoom or prime?
Leaning towards a zoom to get a little more flexibility. Main use will still be landscapes, so a somewhat wide angle would be preferable.
You have a 60d, right?
Tokina 11-16mm DO IT.
Also, consider Tamron 17-50mm. I'd suggest Tokina becuase even if you upgrade to Full frame in future, you can still use that lens on a full frame body for some cool fish eye effects. Check the vid I posted above.
Why the Tokina over Sigma 8-16mm?
I've never used sigma, but I think the distortion is more extreme on that?
Tokina also has BOSS build quality. I used it and its nice and metally with just-right heft. Don't know about the sigma (but since I have a 50 mil 1.4, I'd assume it would be very good).
If you want a ultra wide lens that include human in your picture but with unnoticeable distortion without chicken legs that vanish at the edge of the lens, you want to stay with the Tokina 116.
Just search flickr for the Sigma "enter warp speed" distortion, you don't need a chart to see it.
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