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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
- Thread starter demon
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Well, it came in today!!
Unfortunately I won't really have any time to mess with it for two weeks since I'm going out of town on Sunday and I won't be taking it with me (no bag yet - leaning toward a Domke F-6 - on top of still learning it). I need to find a good grip position for my left hand though, I'm currently at a loss for how to hold it on that side.
Unfortunately I won't really have any time to mess with it for two weeks since I'm going out of town on Sunday and I won't be taking it with me (no bag yet - leaning toward a Domke F-6 - on top of still learning it). I need to find a good grip position for my left hand though, I'm currently at a loss for how to hold it on that side.
Congrats!teiresias said:Well, it came in today!!
Unfortunately I won't really have any time to mess with it for two weeks since I'm going out of town on Sunday and I won't be taking it with me (no bag yet - leaning toward a Domke F-6 - on top of still learning it). I need to find a good grip position for my left hand though, I'm currently at a loss for how to hold it on that side.
Are you a left-hander?
mrkgoo said:
No, right-handed, so I obviously know where my right hand goes, but I just can't figure out what to do with my left hand. I adjust the zoom obviously, but then I feel like I need to lay the zoom lens in my hand for steadiness, but my wrist is screwed up right now, so that's not exactly comfortable. I think once it's better that will be alright though.
I'm more wondering what happens when I put a smaller prime on it - like a 35mm or 50mm - that isn't long enough to just rest in the palm of my left hand.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Try having your left hand be palm side up.teiresias said:
Place the bottom of the camera on base of your palm, cushioned by the meaty parts of your hand.
Your thumb and forefinger will naturally curve up in a U-shape. Use that to adjust zoom and focus.
Rentahamster said:
Yup, I always cradle the camera and base of the lens (depending on how large it is) with my left hand palm up. There is good technique and bad technique, but whatever works for you best is the right one.
A hint: Don't 'press down' on the shutter, squeeze the camera. This can help prevent camera shake at low shutters. I've been refining my technique ever since I started, and I can achieve slightly slower shutterspeeds than recommended on a good day.
Also on this topic, how do you guys shoot portrait orientation? Right hand over head, or under? I used to shoot over, and never thought about it, until I saw an image somewhere that said the better technique is to shoo under, providing more support and less awkwardness. I switched, found this to be true and seldom shoot my old way.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
mrkgoo said:
I shoot with my right hand on top (with the shutter button), left hand supporting the opposite side (or bottom when in Portrait orientation). Its still very awkward, especially with something as small as a Rebel.
A battery grip looks very appealing to me because of this.
Congrats on the purchase! I want one but if I did get it I would do body only, the kit lense doesn't seem that good.teiresias said:Well, it came in today!!
Unfortunately I won't really have any time to mess with it for two weeks since I'm going out of town on Sunday and I won't be taking it with me (no bag yet - leaning toward a Domke F-6 - on top of still learning it). I need to find a good grip position for my left hand though, I'm currently at a loss for how to hold it on that side.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Aaaaand, the D3s is here. New lens, too.
http://nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Digital-SLR/25466/D3S.html
$5,199.95
ISO performance: ISO 12800 as standard, expandable to ISO equivalent of 102400 (Hi 3)
Nikon FX-format CMOS image sensor with 12.1 effective megapixels
Improved D-Movie function including High-Sensitivity Movie mode and flicker reduction function
Nikons Integrated Dust Reduction System including Image Sensor Cleaning function
Incorporates Nikons original EXPEED digital image processing
Active D-Lighting with bracketing for up to 5 frames
Picture Control: Standard, Vivid, Neutral and Monochrome (Landscape and Portrait can be downloaded from Nikon website)
Quick response with approx. 0.12 seconds start-up time and approx. 0.04 seconds shutter-release time lag
9-frames-per-second shooting rate in FX format, 11 fps in DX crop (CIPA Guidelines)
Nikons original Scene Recognition System, utilizing 1,005-pixel RGB sensor, for more accurate autofocus, auto exposure, i-TTL flash control and auto white balance
Multi-CAM 3500FX AF sensor module featuring 51 AF points
Viewfinder with approx. 100% frame coverage and approx. 0.7x magnification in FX format
Durable shutter unit proven by 300,000 cycles of testing on fully assembled camera
Intelligent power management that lets you shoot up to approx. 4,200 frames per charge (based on CIPA Standards)
Easy-to-access Live View modes with dedicated button
Quiet Shutter-release mode for nonintrusive shooting
High-definition (approx. 921k-dot), 170˚ viewing angle, 3-in. VGA LCD monitor with tempered glass
http://nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon...AF-S-DX-Micro-NIKKOR-85mm-f%2F3.5G-ED-VR.html
Medium-telephoto 85mm Micro lens (picture angle is equivalent to a focal length of 127.5mm in FX/35mm format)
Closest focusing distance of 0.286 m/0.9 ft. (1:1 life size)
The optical system featuring an ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass element is optimized for DX-format digital SLRs
Vibration Reduction (VR II) enables sharper pictures while shooting at shutter speeds up to four stops slower than would otherwise be possible
Silent Wave Motor (SWM) ensures fast, quiet AF operation
Two focus modes available M/A and M
IF (Internal Focusing) enables focusing without changing the length of lens barrel
The nine-blade rounded diaphragm opening gives out-of-focus elements a more natural appearance
http://nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Digital-SLR/25466/D3S.html
$5,199.95
ISO performance: ISO 12800 as standard, expandable to ISO equivalent of 102400 (Hi 3)
Nikon FX-format CMOS image sensor with 12.1 effective megapixels
Improved D-Movie function including High-Sensitivity Movie mode and flicker reduction function
Nikons Integrated Dust Reduction System including Image Sensor Cleaning function
Incorporates Nikons original EXPEED digital image processing
Active D-Lighting with bracketing for up to 5 frames
Picture Control: Standard, Vivid, Neutral and Monochrome (Landscape and Portrait can be downloaded from Nikon website)
Quick response with approx. 0.12 seconds start-up time and approx. 0.04 seconds shutter-release time lag
9-frames-per-second shooting rate in FX format, 11 fps in DX crop (CIPA Guidelines)
Nikons original Scene Recognition System, utilizing 1,005-pixel RGB sensor, for more accurate autofocus, auto exposure, i-TTL flash control and auto white balance
Multi-CAM 3500FX AF sensor module featuring 51 AF points
Viewfinder with approx. 100% frame coverage and approx. 0.7x magnification in FX format
Durable shutter unit proven by 300,000 cycles of testing on fully assembled camera
Intelligent power management that lets you shoot up to approx. 4,200 frames per charge (based on CIPA Standards)
Easy-to-access Live View modes with dedicated button
Quiet Shutter-release mode for nonintrusive shooting
High-definition (approx. 921k-dot), 170˚ viewing angle, 3-in. VGA LCD monitor with tempered glass
http://nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon...AF-S-DX-Micro-NIKKOR-85mm-f%2F3.5G-ED-VR.html
Medium-telephoto 85mm Micro lens (picture angle is equivalent to a focal length of 127.5mm in FX/35mm format)
Closest focusing distance of 0.286 m/0.9 ft. (1:1 life size)
The optical system featuring an ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass element is optimized for DX-format digital SLRs
Vibration Reduction (VR II) enables sharper pictures while shooting at shutter speeds up to four stops slower than would otherwise be possible
Silent Wave Motor (SWM) ensures fast, quiet AF operation
Two focus modes available M/A and M
IF (Internal Focusing) enables focusing without changing the length of lens barrel
The nine-blade rounded diaphragm opening gives out-of-focus elements a more natural appearance
I'm curious as to what exactly you were expecting in the way of lenses? It's a brand new camera with a new mount that launched with two lenses. However, you can use all 4/3rds lenses with it.Instigator said:
And I dont think i've ever heard any of the non SHG Pro Oly lenses called "bulky" they are generally smaller in every respect to their canon and nikon counterparts. The 50-200 f2.8 is a full pound lighter than the canon equiv. Which I can handhold with my e30 all the way down to 1/100 shutter pretty consistently.
I think your going to be hard pressed to find a smaller DSLR than the 620 with IS built in.
620 + pancake is pocket-able.
Instigator
Banned
Instigator
Banned
captive said:
First of all, I am not of those four-thirds haters. Quite the opposite.
Moreover, I am not a prime lens guy, yet it seems that, for the GF1 and E-P1 to make sense, these cameras need compact primes. It looks like exactly what excites people about those cameras.
On the other hand, I like fast zooms and I am willing to put up with a bit of bulk. The mid-range lens selection with Olympus is very appealing to me (12-60 and 50-200 in particular). but I wouldn't attach them to an E-P1. I'd prefer the balance and the full functionality of an E-620 or E-30 body for those lenses.
And no thanks on the 25mm pancake. Far from Olympus' finest lens!
B&H just put the D90 kit on sale for $994 - nearly $100 less than what I paid :lol oh well. That basically makes the kit lens only $100 given the body only price, but if you already have lenses you like the body only might still be worth it though I suspect you could probably sell the 18-105 kit lens for more than $100.Zyzyxxz said:
I've read good things about the kit lens though so it seems decent, but I'm honestly more interested in getting the 35mm f/1.8 prime and playing with that.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
5,Instigator said:
1
kazhirai.gif
jamesinclair
Banned
My new phone arrived!
How is this relevant you might ask?
Its my new backup camera!
"Boasting an impressive 8.1-megapixel camera and advanced features such as face detection, autofocus, xenon flash and geo-tagging,"
I plan on using it in those concert venues that actually enforce the retarded no camera policy.
How is this relevant you might ask?
Its my new backup camera!
"Boasting an impressive 8.1-megapixel camera and advanced features such as face detection, autofocus, xenon flash and geo-tagging,"
I plan on using it in those concert venues that actually enforce the retarded no camera policy.
I know your not. I was just curious what your reasoning was behind expecting more lenses.Instigator said:First of all, I am not of those four-thirds haters. Quite the opposite.
I also think they need more lenses for M4/3, but it just came out, it takes time to develop lenses.
I would attach them to an Ep1 or GF1 not only for the ridiculous factor, but because they are still great in the IQ department.
No, its not.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
D3s pic @ ISO 102,400. Damn.
I wish I could see it 100%, though.
400 mm
1/500
f2.8
I wish I could see it 100%, though.
400 mm
1/500
f2.8
Borman said:I just want to send a big thanks to Futureman for the lens! Its an amazing little lens, especially for the price.
Used the new lens to take a picture of my old one, amazing what the f1.8 will do
That the one for $20? A steal! A must-have lens for any beginner. Futureman is a saint for for passing it on at such a good price.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Prime lust will corrupt you muahhahahahahahha
But seriously, enjoy the Depth of Field control and being able to shoot in lower light
But seriously, enjoy the Depth of Field control and being able to shoot in lower light
Captain Nemo
Member
borman said:
EF-S 55-250 IS. It was handy when I was at the Treasure Island Music Fest yesterday.
mrkgoo said:
Wow, I wish I got in on that. I still use my kit lens...*slowly walks out of thread*
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
So I've been reading some on different forums, and I've seen quite a bit of a discussion on how to store lenses and bodies. Basically, people debating keeping them in dedicated (and expensive as I know since I've procured some for work to store IC chips in) dry boxes or just sticking them in a drawer with a bunch of dessicant bags or small electric dehumidifiers. Does anyone here go through all of these measures when storing lenses and bodies? It seems like it all would be a tad bit excessive for a non-pro photographer.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
teiresias said:
I put my camera on top of my PC, on the floor of my room or toss it on my bed if I'm really excited about a set of pictures (that I want to post process quickly). Maybe going through those measure squeezes some life out of the body near its end but I'm like... 5,000 to 10,000 shutter actuations in with my feeble Rebel XT and its still chugging away.
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=139&modelid=19584equap said:
Still keen for that 5DmkII, or thinking it won't drop in price? I know the 1D cameras aren't really in the same league, but a 1-year old camera in the face of two new cameras? How long did the 5DmkI hold its price? I guess you also have to keep in mind all the other full-frame competition out there now.Futureman said:
teiresias said:
I just throw my camera anywhere. Sometimes I keep it by my bed when I sleep.
Camera bodies are pretty tough - they will handle outdoors, so why not indoors? Well, unless your place is particularly damp or something, I wouldn't worry too much. Keep it covered from dust where possible.
mrkgoo said:
I'm definitely not getting a 1D IV, just thought it was exciting news to post.
I'm probably going to wait until January to get the 5DII. I'm in a studio lighting class right now and I'd rather not have any amount of time without a camera, as I'd have to sell my 5D and then purchase the 5DII. This will allow me to save a little more until January. I highly doubt there'll be a price drop anytime soon. Canon just announced they are releasing a 2nd firmware update for this thing in the first half of 2010 to add 24p/25p framerate options. With Canon adding value like this I don't see the price changing much... maybe down a few hundred sometime in 2010 but nothing worth waiting for.
I just signed up for Best Buy Reward Zone, hopefully I get a 10% off coupon soon which would net me ~$250 off (which would go straight to an 8 GB UDMA CF card and a 1 TB external HD for working with the huge video files from the 5DII).
XMonkey said:
Hmm. Possibly. True, the 1D and 7D are different beasts entirely, but the competition is much more stiff now. In the past year and a bit, Canon added two new lines to their DSLR range, filling gaps everywhere. The 5DmkII has already seen a drop of $100 in the past week I think (or atleast I heard it's now $2,599).
Anyway, as the megapixel wars draw to a close, a new battle (once in the background) comes into the spotlight - the ISO wars! We're seeing higher and higher iso capabilities as the processors improve. It has been a somewhat of a marketing potion for point and shoots (iso1600!), but they were always crap after iso400. It ink now, there might be a push to improve that and use it as a marketing point.
BronzeWolf
Banned
Will pentax release their K-X already? Damn it, October is almost over :lol
Futureman said:
Yeah, I know - only the most richest of hardcore get into the 1D cameras (or professionals, of course).
That's what makes the 5D series so popular - it's actually within reach of us mere peons.
I'm hoping for a price drop, not because I plan on getting a 5DmkII. I settled for the 7D which was more my price ticket, and also meant I could still use my EF-S lenses - ironically, my main EF-S lens broke recently :/, not sure if I will have Canon repair it, as it has been the 6th time it has been sent in for service, and Canon have refused my wishes for trading it in or something. Anyway, I'm hoping for a price drop in the 5DmkII, because for some reasons, I really want you to get one more affordably.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Studio lighting class? Cool. What kind of lights are you guys using? Do you have any kind of textbook or anything? "Light Science and Magic", or something?Futureman said:
I never took a studio lighting class so I'm kinda curious as to how people formally learn this stuff.
mrkgoo said:
5DII prices are just natural progression you see with other cameras, as stock levels build up and demand levels off.
5DII is really a semi-pro studio camera, and the 7D is the equivalent action sports.
1DMKIV is the pro action camera, so expect a 1DsMKIV soon as the pro studio camera.
It actually improves clarity and separation in the Canon range to have the 7D. I'd personally prefer the 1.6x and fps over the larger sensor in the 5D, so the 7D is more for me, but previously there was no 'semi pro' camera catering to me.
I wonder how that 1D fares with high ISO? Smaller sensor than the 5D, but larger than the 7D, and lower megapixels than both. It is crazy that we're looking at 12800 standard ISO which is crazy compared to film days
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
The samples on Canon's site look pretty good so far.mrklaw said:
http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eosd/samples/eos1dm4/
But like the D3s and all other cameras, the shots on the company's website are always nice. I want to see some samples from some other reviewers.
N2_ said:finally got one
Mine came in last week, but only like one day before I flew down to Florida, so I haven't had a chance to mess with it (didn't bring the camera because I don't have a good bag for carrying it around yet, much less packing it on an airplane).
I like it, and the 1.8 is great, but from the few test shots I took I know I'm going to have to be more conscious of how I'm holding the camera and how I steady it since I definitely could feel the lack of VR in some of the shots (granted these were really dark test shots, probably no conditions I'd regularly be photographing in unless I took it into a really dark bar or restaurant, which is possible I guess, just not the normal use case).
Rentahamster said:
We have a Calumet pack and heads (here's the pack: http://www.4thtimearound.com/photos/caly.jpg), a White Lightning kit (two monoblocks), and another set-up that I haven't used (pack and head like the Calumet). Honestly though I'm trying to use my stuff as much as possible (Alien Bee unit and a Nikon speedlight) as it's what I have and what I'll be using after the class.
The piece of equipment that I REALLY like is the $5,000 printer my school has. Provide your own paper and you can make 17x22 prints for ~$2.50 (just gotta pay for the ink).
I'm in Studio Lighting 2 right now and we have no text book. 1 didn't have anything required either, but our professor suggested a few books. I just recently read McNally's "Hot Shoe Diaries" which is great, and "Light Science and Magic" is on my to-read list.
My school is a small, local film/photo school and the tuition for the class is only $400. I'd definitely look into a class or workshop if you are interested in learning about studio lighting.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Wow, $400, that's not too bad. What I meant was that I've learned about studio lighting, just not in a classroom setting. I'd always wondered if I should look at my local community college or something to see if I should take a class and whether that would help. I just gotta find the time.Futureman said:
I have a set of AlienBees too and think they're really great. I don't have much experience with other brands, though. Do you see any significant advantages the more expensive strobes have over the AlienBees, particularly in color temperature variability due to power level changes?
As for "Light Science and Magic", I highly recommend it. I first heard of that book over at the Strobist website. It's fairly cheap and packed full of all kinds of great info. I'd say it's been the most helpful book I've read so far.
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