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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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I was just looking around on Craigslist, and saw someone had put up some really cheap Canon gear from the 70's, and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts. I honestly know nothing about film cameras, but I've been interested in dabbling...

Anyway they're selling an "excellent" condition Canon TLb for $35, and a handful of lens for $20-25 a pop. Is it worth investigating?

Canon TLb 35mm SLR camera body number 151014 purchased new in 1973 $35
Canon Lens FD 50 mm 1:1.8 S.C. with 55mm snap-on lens cover $20
Canon Lens FD 35mm 1:3.5 S.C. with Canon 55mm snap-on lens cover and Canon leather case $20
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 1:3.5 Macro Focusing Auto Zoom Lens w/67mm snap-on lens cap in case $25
 
D

Deleted member 12837

Unconfirmed Member
That's a tough one. High ISO performance is a tad better with M2. Is it worth $150? Depends on your personal taste and how often you shoot in difficult light situations. If you don't need to show your pics at poster size, you probably won't notice the noise too much.

Have a look at Flickr groups with result of the two cameras and decide for yourself, if you want to spend the money.

Some sort of comparison:
Imaging Resource Comparison

Ooh thanks, that link will be helpful. Not sure what is considered "poster size", but I probably wouldn't ever print much larger than 8x10 or maaaybe 16x20.

I was also considering the tiltable LCD, the expandability via a hot shoe, and the NFC/Wi-Fi support (is this gimmicky? am I better off with one of those Eyefi cards?) that the M2 has vs the M1.
 

Ty4on

Member
I was just looking around on Craigslist, and saw someone had put up some really cheap Canon gear from the 70's, and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts. I honestly know nothing about film cameras, but I've been interested in dabbling...

Anyway they're selling an "excellent" condition Canon TLb for $35, and a handful of lens for $20-25 a pop. Is it worth investigating?

Canon TLb 35mm SLR camera body number 151014 purchased new in 1973 $35
Canon Lens FD 50 mm 1:1.8 S.C. with 55mm snap-on lens cover $20
Canon Lens FD 35mm 1:3.5 S.C. with Canon 55mm snap-on lens cover and Canon leather case $20
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 1:3.5 Macro Focusing Auto Zoom Lens w/67mm snap-on lens cap in case $25
You can google old camera gear to find tons of info about it. Butkus has manuals for what seems like ever camera from 100 year old Kodaks to more recent Canon EOS 3.
Keh sells used gear that they rate (according to most people very conservatively, posts online that I've seen tend to be shocked at how good of a shape bargain rated items are in) and you can use them to see what the market value is. Keh should be more expensive because they have a 14-day no questions asked return policy and a 180 day warranty.

A ton of cameras back then were sold with a 50mm f1.8 back then and many opted for a ~70-200 ~f4 that pretended to be macro so those lenses should be cheap. *edit* Apparently the Vivitar had a macro mode and 1/2.2 magnification which isn't too bad, most just focused to 1m had a magnification of 1/3 */edit* I got a Pentax ME with a 50mm f1.7 and 70-210 f4.5 for aprox 60-70$ (550NOK) with a flash and case. Wide angles seem a little rarer, but most them weren't that great either. I couldn't find much about the FD 35mm f3.5, but it doesn't seem as bad as some.

The camera itself is quite ordinary. It was apparently a cheaper model of the TLb and back then more expensive SLRs usually had a top shutter speed of 1/1000 of a second. The camera does has one big flaw though which many 70s cameras had and that is using old 1.35V mercury batteries (PX625) which have been banned. There is no real replacement other than using 1.5V silver oxide/alkaline batteries and compensating the exposure, modifying the camera to expose correctly with 1.5V or jerry rig (or buy modified) 1.35V air zinc hearing aid batteries.
mercury-hearing-aid-wein.jpg

Google all options if you are serious, tons of people are in the same boat as a lot of old cameras used those batteries.

The battery only operates the meter though. My moms old Mamiya DSX 1000 (which came with a 55mm and a 80-210 ofc) has a bad connection to the battery so I either use a light meter app on my phone, take a picture on my phone and check the EXIF (needs math, but you get to see a preview of the exposure) or just guesstimate/sunny16. Print film also doesn't mind being over exposed a little.
 
You can google old camera gear to find tons of info about it. Butkus has manuals for what seems like ever camera from 100 year old Kodaks to more recent Canon EOS 3.
Keh sells used gear that they rate (according to most people very conservatively, posts online that I've seen tend to be shocked at how good of a shape bargain rated items are in) and you can use them to see what the market value is. Keh should be more expensive because they have a 14-day no questions asked return policy and a 180 day warranty.

A ton of cameras back then were sold with a 50mm f1.8 back then and many opted for a ~70-200 ~f4 that pretended to be macro so those lenses should be cheap. *edit* Apparently the Vivitar had a macro mode and 1/2.2 magnification which isn't too bad, most just focused to 1m had a magnification of 1/3 */edit* I got a Pentax ME with a 50mm f1.7 and 70-210 f4.5 for aprox 60-70$ (550NOK) with a flash and case. Wide angles seem a little rarer, but most them weren't that great either. I couldn't find much about the FD 35mm f3.5, but it doesn't seem as bad as some.

The camera itself is quite ordinary. It was apparently a cheaper model of the TLb and back then more expensive SLRs usually had a top shutter speed of 1/1000 of a second. The camera does has one big flaw though which many 70s cameras had and that is using old 1.35V mercury batteries (PX625) which have been banned. There is no real replacement other than using 1.5V silver oxide/alkaline batteries and compensating the exposure, modifying the camera to expose correctly with 1.5V or jerry rig (or buy modified) 1.35V air zinc hearing aid batteries.
mercury-hearing-aid-wein.jpg

Google all options if you are serious, tons of people are in the same boat as a lot of old cameras used those batteries.

The battery only operates the meter though. My moms old Mamiya DSX 1000 (which came with a 55mm and a 80-210 ofc) has a bad connection to the battery so I either use a light meter app on my phone, take a picture on my phone and check the EXIF (needs math, but you get to see a preview of the exposure) or just guesstimate/sunny16. Print film also doesn't mind being over exposed a little.

Thanks a lot, this is the kind of post I was looking for! I have some reading to do. Thanks again.
 
Ooh thanks, that link will be helpful. Not sure what is considered "poster size", but I probably wouldn't ever print much larger than 8x10 or maaaybe 16x20.

I was also considering the tiltable LCD, the expandability via a hot shoe, and the NFC/Wi-Fi support (is this gimmicky? am I better off with one of those Eyefi cards?) that the M2 has vs the M1.

A used M1 in good condition will probably give you the best price/performance ratio.

I don't think you would notice any difference in image quality comoared to the M2. The M3 on the other hand has a viewfinder and a brighter (although shorter) lens.
 

Thraktor

Member
OK, did some researching... with what I have in mind, my 10k budget takes me to: three days of rental... :-/

I thought there were cheaper options from Phantom (although I know their high-end cameras go for serious cash), but in that case the Sony FS7 that griffy linked to is probably your best option, and should come in safely under $10,000 once you include lens, QXD card, etc. The 180fps would give you a 6x slow-motion effect at a 30fps playback, or 7.5x at 24fps, which is a reasonably good slow-motion effect.

Of course, "reasonably good" is a relative term, and for shooting hummingbirds it would give you footage like this. Hummingbirds are extremely fast moving animals, though (on average they beat their wings around 50 times per second), so if you wanted extreme slow motion in the range of one beat per second of 30fps footage, you'd need to shoot at 1,500 fps to achieve that, and although cameras like the Phantom Flex can do that, they certainly don't come cheap.
 

hitsugi

Member
Should I go for a used RX1 with EVF for $1400? It has some wear around the barrel, just paint I suppose. Rest of it looks flawless.
 
I was also considering the tiltable LCD, the expandability via a hot shoe, and the NFC/Wi-Fi support (is this gimmicky? am I better off with one of those Eyefi cards?) that the M2 has vs the M1.

The WiFi in the M2 is reported to be a little awkward (I don't have any experience with that), but I reckon it is a better solution than those darn EyeFi cards. I tried one of them when they were introduced and ran into some annoying problems (lost connections and problems with RAW files iIRC). But maybe the cards' software has improved in the last months and they are flawless now, I just don't know. Overall, I would say the WiFi is not really a reason to spend more money on the M2.
 

Tablo

Member
Should I go for a used RX1 with EVF for $1400? It has some wear around the barrel, just paint I suppose. Rest of it looks flawless.

I honestly don't see the point unless you know you want the uniqueness of the RX1, FF and amazing lens, but slow AF and kinda big.
Something like the X100T has less IQ not being FF, but it's really a lot more practical day to day and usable imo. Or even for way less a Ricoh GR or Nikon Coolpix A.
 

NysGAF

Member
I'm thinking of upgrading and need some advice. I have a Canon XTi that I use pretty much exclusively with a 50mm 1.4. I know it's the photographer as much as the camera, but will my pictures get any better if I upgrade to a Fuji X100S?
 
I'm thinking of upgrading and need some advice. I have a Canon XTi that I use pretty much exclusively with a 50mm 1.4. I know it's the photographer as much as the camera, but will my pictures get any better if I upgrade to a Fuji X100S?

Everybody body has its strengths and weaknesses. Fuji has great image quality but the AF is lacking. Coming from a Canon, it will have a bit of a learning curve. Personally, I would own both the Fuji and Canon simply because I'd want a portable mirrorless body with the capabilities of the Canon at my disposable if need be.

They are both good cameras, but ultimately what makes is a picture great is the person behind it.
 

Tablo

Member
I'm thinking of upgrading and need some advice. I have a Canon XTi that I use pretty much exclusively with a 50mm 1.4. I know it's the photographer as much as the camera, but will my pictures get any better if I upgrade to a Fuji X100S?
The X100S is a good complement to your Canon, but keep in mind the S model is EOL and won't get firmware updates (not that it really needs any it's great as is) unlike the new X100T which I own and has allowed me to make some really great photos, I'm finally getting comfy with it and it's a great tool.
Everybody body has its strengths and weaknesses. Fuji has great image quality but the AF is lacking. Coming from a Canon, it will have a bit of a learning curve. Personally, I would own both the Fuji and Canon simply because I'd want a portable mirrorless body with the capabilities of the Canon at my disposable if need be.

They are both good cameras, but ultimately what makes is a picture great is the person behind it.
+1
 

NysGAF

Member
What I'd love to see is a top-down shot of an X100S next to an SL1 with a 24mm pancake. Who has that combo to show me the size differences?

Edit: Found something similar...

999019.jpg
 

hitsugi

Member
I honestly don't see the point unless you know you want the uniqueness of the RX1, FF and amazing lens, but slow AF and kinda big.
Something like the X100T has less IQ not being FF, but it's really a lot more practical day to day and usable imo. Or even for way less a Ricoh GR or Nikon Coolpix A.

I guess there's just an allure to.. exactly what you described. I like shooting 35mm, have a fucking a6000 so the 35mm equiv lens is $1k (Zeiss) and I don't want to buy it.
 
D

Deleted member 12837

Unconfirmed Member
Are any of the iOS geotagging apps any good? The kind that track your GPS location over time and then can take that data and automatically add geotags to all of the photos you've taken with a different camera?

If not, are there any other good solutions for cameras that don't have built-in GPS?
 

RuGalz

Member
Are any of the iOS geotagging apps any good? The kind that track your GPS location over time and then can take that data and automatically add geotags to all of the photos you've taken with a different camera?

If not, are there any other good solutions for cameras that don't have built-in GPS?

I use an external GPS logger like AGL 3080 when I'm on extended trips. AGL 3080 is pretty old and there are newer and potentially better choices, but I like it because it has enough space to log a month of data and can recharge the AAA batteries I use with it. Otherwise, I use Google's My Track App to do tracking and then convert it to GPX format afterward to do geotagging. I really don't like using camera's own GPS function even if it has one. Too much battery drain for my liking.
 
Hi guys

I am planning on buying a new Canon Camera.

I currently own non Full frame camera and I am thinking about either buying the 6D or stay with the current format and buy the canon 7D mark II... it seems the 7D mark II is better at everything except it being a cropped sensor.

besides maybe the 6D will get a replacement soon that will boost it up to a 7D mark II ?

Anyone know if there is a camera event soon where they show new up coming cameras ?

Maybe I should wait until the release the new 6D...
 
Hi guys

I am planning on buying a new Canon Camera.

I currently own non Full frame camera and I am thinking about either buying the 6D or stay with the current format and buy the canon 7D mark II... it seems the 7D mark II is better at everything except it being a cropped sensor.

besides maybe the 6D will get a replacement soon that will boost it up to a 7D mark II ?

Anyone know if there is a camera event soon where they show new up coming cameras ?

Maybe I should wait until the release the new 6D...

I think these two cameras are for different users.

What are you shooting? Like if you shoot birds, wildlife, sports etc. a 7D II with its fast AF and reach makes sense.

If you are shooting landscapes or portraits, you will profit more from a FF camera like the 6D.
 
I think these two cameras are for different users.

What are you shooting? Like if you shoot birds, wildlife, sports etc. a 7D II with its fast AF and reach makes sense.

If you are shooting landscapes or portraits, you will profit more from a FF camera like the 6D.

yeah I know I am torn, I need a camera for both..

I will mainly be shooting nature, insects and fly fishing.

I was hoping that there would be a new photo/tech gear event soon and Canon would show the new upcoming 6D version maybe it will have some great AF like the 7D mark II. in that case I would buy that one instead of the 7D mark II.

I would hate it if i bought the 7d mark II now and then in 2 months Canon would come and tell me tehre is a new 6D version available that has a great AF for the same price as a 7D II today
 
yeah I know I am torn, I need a camera for both..

I will mainly be shooting nature, insects and fly fishing.

I was hoping that there would be a new photo/tech gear event soon and Canon would show the new upcoming 6D version maybe it will have some great AF like the 7D mark II. in that case I would buy that one instead of the 7D mark II.

I would hate it if i bought the 7d mark II now and then in 2 months Canon would come and tell me tehre is a new 6D version available that has a great AF for the same price as a 7D II today

Seeing as not even the 5D III has a AF system as good as the one of the 7D II, I doubt they would do that.

Also consider what lenses you currently own and if you could use them on a FF camera.
 
Seeing as not even the 5D III has a AF system as good as the one of the 7D II, I doubt they would do that.

Also consider what lenses you currently own and if you could use them on a FF camera.

yeah, the lenses I own do not work on FF...

So I dont know what I shall do. I guess I just need to find out when the next camera expo is so I will know if I should wait for that or just buy the Canon 7D Mark II now
 

Ether_Snake

安安安安安安安安安安安安安安安
Help!

I got yhe olympus em5 and no wifi icon appears on the touch screen so I can't setup the wifi:(

There is no reference at all to wifi on my cam... Maybe it requires a firmware update?
 
I'm not familiar with recording video, but I'm wondering: What's the difference between a Blackmagic Pocket CC and let's say a GH4 (in terms of video)?

The sensor seems to be smaller in the Blackmagic Pocket. Is it just the ability to record in RAW? Why can't they just add this to the GH4?
 

Sec0nd

Member
Quick audio question.

I've got a simple Rode Videomic to record audio. Lately I've been using it on a Nikon D800e and I've been experiencing some bad audio hiss with it. Turns out that's an issue with the Nikon D800e preamp or whatever. I've been quite successful getting rid of the hiss using Adobe Audition but it's obviously not optimal.

I've got an interview coming up tomorrow so I'm trying to figure out what the best way is to go about the audio. I can either use the Rode on the D800e, experience the hiss but have level control and can control the audio with earbuds. Or use the Rode on my old Canon 600D but have no control over the audio. Or hook the Rode to my cellphone or macbook... I dunno. I suck with audio.

Edit: Whoops, ment to post that in the Filmmaking thread.
 

Ether_Snake

安安安安安安安安安安安安安安安
Help!

I got yhe olympus em5 and no wifi icon appears on the touch screen so I can't setup the wifi:(

There is no reference at all to wifi on my cam... Maybe it requires a firmware update?

Bumped

Any help? Even after the firmware update it still doesn't work:(
 

Ty4on

Member
Bumped

Any help? Even after the firmware update it still doesn't work:(

According to the spec sheet the EM5 is not equipped with WiFi. If you have the EM5 Mark II then that camera has WiFi. (last link has a shorter EM5 spec sheet showing no wifi)

Lack of basic features in any other device like wifi and GPS are quite common in cameras. I think it's partly because the standardized battery tests assume you will use them and give better featured cameras a lower score. I know that's the case with the D5500 which removed GPS and gained a better battery score with identical battery and specs.
 

Ether_Snake

安安安安安安安安安安安安安安安
According to the spec sheet the EM5 is not equipped with WiFi. If you have the EM5 Mark II then that camera has WiFi. (last link has a shorter EM5 spec sheet showing no wifi)

Lack of basic features in any other device like wifi and GPS are quite common in cameras. I think it's partly because the standardized battery tests assume you will use them and give better featured cameras a lower score. I know that's the case with the D5500 which removed GPS and gained a better battery score with identical battery and specs.

I see, I was sure it had it, but I guess not. Ok, not big deal. I love my camera, took my first portrait photos with it and loved the results.

I think I will finally bother to scout around my city this summer. Grab my camera, tripod, and ride around on my back looking for good spots.
 

Aurongel

Member
Hi guys

I am planning on buying a new Canon Camera.

I currently own non Full frame camera and I am thinking about either buying the 6D or stay with the current format and buy the canon 7D mark II... it seems the 7D mark II is better at everything except it being a cropped sensor.

besides maybe the 6D will get a replacement soon that will boost it up to a 7D mark II ?

Anyone know if there is a camera event soon where they show new up coming cameras ?

Maybe I should wait until the release the new 6D...

The 6D stomps the 7DII in dynamic range, low light performance and has GPS if those are things you value or not. From the sounds of things, you could probably fare better with the 7DII's rugged build, class-leading weather sealing, reach, AF performance and speed.

Canon wouldn't release a theoretical 6DII before launching their 5D update. Considering that the 5DIV is rumored for a release at the end of this year, I'd say don't expect a 6D replacement until Q2 2016 at the earliest.
 

Rimshot

Member
What camera bags are the X-T1 owners here using?

I need to get something that's not too big, as I want it inside my regular messenger bag (to not have to go around with two bahs) but that still fits the camera and an extra lens. It seems hard to find something like this for some reason :/
 

RuGalz

Member
What camera bags are the X-T1 owners here using?

I need to get something that's not too big, as I want it inside my regular messenger bag (to not have to go around with two bahs) but that still fits the camera and an extra lens. It seems hard to find something like this for some reason :/

Get an insert that fits inside your messenger bag.
 

Ty4on

Member
Thank you, this was pretty much what I was hoping to find. Hopefully I will find them in Sweden too now that I know the brand and I can see how well they fit :)
Prisjakt works well for me to find obscure stores. It doesn't uncover everything, but unless they don't ship outside the US there should be a Swedish online store with them.

B&H also ship internationally, but then you have to factor in VAT.
 

FStop7

Banned
I just picked up this bag for an upcoming trip to Europe:

http://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/urban-approach-15-backpack.aspx

I'll be taking a Leica body, 2 batteries, charger, 4 lenses, 6 SD cards, Macbook Pro 15 and charger.

My camera kit's small enough to where I can remove the bottom dividers in order to make room for carrying an extra t-shirt, a few energy bars, and an umbrella.

The backpack is not particularly anti-theft or slash proof, but the material is tough and the dividers would definitely slow a would-be slasher down. Most of the time my camera will be on my wrist, anyhow.
 

alterno69

Banned
I got this backpack for when i just need to take one camera+couple of lenses with me.
http://www.benro.com/Products.aspx?cid=217&pid=222&nid=227




I'm undecided if i want to get a 70-200, a 24-70 or the new Phantom 3 in the next couple of weeks lol.

I alreqdy have a 24,35,50 and 85 to go with my D750 and D810 but i tried the VRI version of the 70-200 by Nikon and it was really fun to use, plus i'm working for a local baseball team right now and it's really useful during games.

I already have a Phantom 1 that i really don't use much but being able to monitor what i'm recording would make a huge difference i think.

I'm leaning towards the 70-200 or 24-70(tamron version with IS for video work besides photography)

I know whatever i end up getting i'll miss the other stuff lol, help me decide gaf
 

RayStorm

Member
I'm undecided if i want to get a 70-200, a 24-70 or the new Phantom 3 in the next couple of weeks lol.

I know whatever i end up getting i'll miss the other stuff lol, help me decide gaf

Why not get both: the Tamron 70-200 and Tamron 24-70 for almost the same price as the Nikon 70-200 alone? If I'm not terribly mistaken the Tamron 70-200 is on par with the Nikon equivalent.
 
I'm doing some camera shopping and are these two camera's good?

Cyber-shot Digital Camera W830
DSC-WX350
Panasonic Lumix DMC-SZ10
I'm honestly leaning towards the WX350, but if anybody knows something better or comparable in other brands within these price ranges I wouldn't mind checking them out.

From the cameras you listed, the WX350 surely is the most capable device in terms of picture quality and built in features.
Here is a list of some alternatives, but I strongly advice you to try them out in a shop for yourself if that's possible for you. Handling and operation can be valued quite differently by every individual.
Photographyblog - WX 350 Rivals
 
From the cameras you listed, the WX350 surely is the most capable device in terms of picture quality and built in features.
Here is a list of some alternatives, but I strongly advice you to try them out in a shop for yourself if that's possible for you. Handling and operation can be valued quite differently by every individual.
Photographyblog - WX 350 Rivals
Thanks, I also just started looking at this one as well:
Canon - PowerShot SX520 HS 16.0-Megapixel Digital Camera
 

alterno69

Banned
Why not get both: the Tamron 70-200 and Tamron 24-70 for almost the same price as the Nikon 70-200 alone? If I'm not terribly mistaken the Tamron 70-200 is on par with the Nikon equivalent.

I think that's exactly what i'll do, i expect the Tamron 70-200 to at least be on par with the Nikon VRI version which is the one i've used right?
 
At that price you could get the Panasonic GX7 which has less zoom, but much better image quality, especially in low light.

I have no idea how they handle though.
I'm not spending $800 for a camera. I might as well just stick with that $200 Canon SX 520. I'm honestly just looking for a good affordable camera to take on my dates when we go to a museum or something, nothing hyper fancy within the $200-250 range. And when I checked out the Canon I was pretty impressed with it in person. Nice size, good lens, good weight, seemed user friendly enough as well.
 
So, what's the equipment that people use to get slow, smooth pans from side to side? I wanna say it's like some rail sliding thing or something that they put on a tripod, but I honestly don't know squat about it haha. Can those be had for relatively cheap?

EDIT: Derp rail slider worked.

Now just to find a good new tripod that won't break the bank... That's the hard one.
 

nick nacc

Banned
Man it is hard to get excited for anything but the sony alpha's (for me) right now. I have been shooting gigs with the d7000 for too long and need full frame. Was looking into getting a d610 or possibly a 750, but then I saw some video on using ANY lens on the Alpha. Were talking old Communist lenses here! I went to the camera store and quickly realized its the a7ii or bust since the a7 grip and shutter button is uncomfortable. I still think I will wait it out till the alpha7rii is announced and see. There are still some hesitancy from me switching to wireless:

- I don't like the evf, but I hear you get used to it.
- adaptors make this thing big anyways, (its still smaller than it would be on an slr)
-The finger/thumb dials are stiff feeling, like the thing got soda spilled on it. I wonder if it loosens up.
-Is peaking a viable focusing technique for low light portraits/weddings?
 
Man it is hard to get excited for anything but the sony alpha's (for me) right now. I have been shooting gigs with the d7000 for too long and need full frame. Was looking into getting a d610 or possibly a 750, but then I saw some video on using ANY lens on the Alpha. Were talking old Communist lenses here! I went to the camera store and quickly realized its the a7ii or bust since the a7 grip and shutter button is uncomfortable. I still think I will wait it out till the alpha7rii is announced and see. There are still some hesitancy from me switching to wireless:

- I don't like the evf, but I hear you get used to it.
- adaptors make this thing big anyways, (its still smaller than it would be on an slr)
-The finger/thumb dials are stiff feeling, like the thing got soda spilled on it. I wonder if it loosens up.
-Is peaking a viable focusing technique for low light portraits/weddings?

Yeah, old lenses with adapters rocks with the alphas. I've only got one native e-Mount lens, and four vintage lenses. I will say though, while peaking is nice, you've really got to get a feel for it. If the live view needs to jack the ISO up for you to see, and thus the preview image is noisy, it loses much of its effectiveness, and at the same time it's still not *perfect*. It's great, and it works, but there's a range within it that's still a bit soft. I'd recommend trying to basically learn how to "sweep" the peaking -- so you focus in on the object, and try and go a little bit further than when it starts to peak, to make sure that what you want perfectly in focus, is in focus.

Yeah, adapters will make it huge. The one native lens I have is a 30mm, and that's more or less because I wanted a lens that would actually be nice and tiny. (Mine is APSC of course)

For events? I do some military photography, and when using my vintage lenses, even with peaking I find it VERY easy to accidentally misfocus a shot that only has a few seconds to work with, but I'm also not the most experienced photographer in any way shape or form. I've settled on using my 30mm's autofocus with a manual trigger, so that I can point the camera immediately at what I want focused on, and then adjust the framing without worrying about it focusing on something else. It works very well, at least for me.
 

nick nacc

Banned
Yeah, old lenses with adapters rocks with the alphas. I've only got one native e-Mount lens, and four vintage lenses. I will say though, while peaking is nice, you've really got to get a feel for it. If the live view needs to jack the ISO up for you to see, and thus the preview image is noisy, it loses much of its effectiveness, and at the same time it's still not *perfect*. It's great, and it works, but there's a range within it that's still a bit soft. I'd recommend trying to basically learn how to "sweep" the peaking -- so you focus in on the object, and try and go a little bit further than when it starts to peak, to make sure that what you want perfectly in focus, is in focus.

Yeah, adapters will make it huge. The one native lens I have is a 30mm, and that's more or less because I wanted a lens that would actually be nice and tiny. (Mine is APSC of course)

For events? I do some military photography, and when using my vintage lenses, even with peaking I find it VERY easy to accidentally misfocus a shot that only has a few seconds to work with, but I'm also not the most experienced photographer in any way shape or form. I've settled on using my 30mm's autofocus with a manual trigger, so that I can point the camera immediately at what I want focused on, and then adjust the framing without worrying about it focusing on something else. It works very well, at least for me.

Thanks!
How is the autofocus with one of their dedicated lenses? like the Zeiss ones? Are they up to snuff with an slr like a D610 in terms of autofocusing?
 
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