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[Antiwhippy]

Also you can't really go tube on the go unless you want to go for something ludicrous like the Alo continental dual mono or the analog squared paper stuff.

I kind of like the ludicrousness of the analog squared paper stuff though, as dumb as they are.

 

[Waikis]

I dunno bout Mojo. People keep saying it's X/% of Hugo and I didn't even think the Hugo was all that great. Least Mojo is priced accordingly and is built like a tank. SGS seems to think it's a really great source though, mid centric, and sort of bass lite or something/rolled off. I'm interested in this thing at the moment:

http://www.soekris.dk/dac1101.html

R2R for roughly same price as Mojo.

From what I've read, the Mojo actually has a slightly different sound compared to Hugo. Mojo is slightly darker and the midrange has weight to it, unlike the airy / clinical Hugo.
Seems to align with what I'm hearing with my TH X00.

Would love to try it out with other headphone but sadly I don't have any other dynamic phones. Don't have a mini to RCA either, so I can't test out Mojo's line out.

Happy for a quick meet up if you are ever around in Melb CBD whippy .

 

[Antiwhippy]

Well I'll be going to lygon for an audition, so maybe.

 

[Waikis]

Well I'll be going to lygon for an audition, so maybe.

Haha CAV I'm guessing?
Feel free to PM me anyway if you are keen.

In other news:
"Embrace the bass: Beats headphones are popular for a reason"
http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/27/10840614/beats-by-dre-headphones-bass

/cries

 

[FoxSpirit]

Haha CAV I'm guessing?
Feel free to PM me anyway if you are keen.

In other news:
"Embrace the bass: Beats headphones are popular for a reason"
http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/27/10840614/beats-by-dre-headphones-bass

/cries

Well, it's true that quite a lot of modern music sounds boring on strictly flat phones. But hey, that's why EQ exists. Use that shit.

 

[Tommy DJ]

When EQing speakers, the target curve most people adopt is some manner of the B&K curve, which goes for a downward tilting frequency response. JBL Synthesis and Dirac Live both adopt this as their default configuration. The justification for this curve is that it's what people think sounds best and has been pretty well proven consistently...it's more or less been vindicated by that research Harman did on preferable sound signatures.

So I'm not surprised Vlad came to that conclusion. As for Beats headphones, the old ones were offensive sounding but the new ones honestly sound perfectly fine. But regardless of sound quality of the Beats lineup, there's nothing really wrong with his conclusion. Even high end audiophile headphones have been pushing for better quality bass, as seen in the release of planar magnetic headphones

Expensive sure but I can give you hundreds of god awful sounding "audiophile" speakers and headphones that are not only not only expensive but go cheap on internal and external components critical to good sound.

 

[SolarMystic]

Haha CAV I'm guessing?
Feel free to PM me anyway if you are keen.

In other news:
"Embrace the bass: Beats headphones are popular for a reason"
http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/27/10840614/beats-by-dre-headphones-bass

/cries

Excessively clinical hd650? Neutral X2? Reduced treble in the Thx00? Pm3 neutral and uncolored? They are laid back, so I can see how some would find them boring.

This guy...

 

[Tommy DJ]

I don't think that really detracts from his premise.

Something I've learnt and something I've tried to adopt is not to be a huge dickhead when people can't articulate sound correctly, which is something I'm still guilty of. The guy isn't an audiophile so it's interesting to see how he describes sound based on (often meaningless) audiophile terminology that gets thrown around on Head-Fi.

The HD650 sounding clinical and neutral? He probably means it sounds boring and slow. The reduced treble of the TH-X00? Sure, the bass and midrange is louder than the several peaks of treble that exist. The PM3 being neutral? If you won the planar driver roulette, you'd get one without exaggerated bass like the pair that Tyll had to review.

If people were able to accurately describe sound, then we wouldn't have a need for measurements. Instead, we have people who think the Sennheiser HD800 is neutral and think that silver cable can dramatically reduce the impact on a 6+dB treble peak.

 

[Waikis]

When EQing speakers, the target curve most people adopt is some manner of the B&K curve, which goes for a downward tilting frequency response. JBL Synthesis and Dirac Live both adopt this as their default configuration. The justification for this curve is that it's what people think sounds best and has been pretty well proven consistently...it's more or less been vindicated by that research Harman did on preferable sound signatures.

Isn't that only valid for speakers though? For headphones the general consensus is that you want -2db on bass and treble relative to speaker's target curve.

Anyway, going back to Verve's tale from the ass, there's already a study on listener's preference:

The paper concludes that listener prefers headphones with the most balanced and neutral sound.

 

[Tommy DJ]

I don't think that conclusion is correct. Do you have the whole slide?

From Olive and Welti themselves, we have a recent presentation in November 2015:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u...nd Welti Preferred Bass and Treble Levels.pdf

From the results, it's clear that the preference for downward sloping sound signatures is still preferred. To many people, including many people who work in studios, curves like the B&K target curve is actually considered "neutral". It's also why some people like Bob Katz have shown a strong liking towards Audeze's output.

How you measure and compensate for headphones are different to speakers yes for hundreds of reasons but I do not believe for a second that we have significantly different sound signature preferences between headphone and loudspeakers.

If anything is significantly different, people want to turn the bass up with headphones because they can't emulate the impact of full range speakers or subwoofers. Which basically agrees with the overall gist of The Verge's argument. It also highlights why people in the music production industry may show a liking for Audeze headphones, despite the fact they look rolled off to hell to us.

Note: I think all of these target curves are too bass heavy and roll off too much of the high end but apparently this is what people prefer.

 

[HiResDes]

Excessively clinical hd650? Neutral X2? Reduced treble in the Thx00? Pm3 neutral and uncolored? They are laid back, so I can see how some would find them boring.

This guy...

I was just about to chime in, the weird thing to me is that the Master and Dynamic MH40 sound a lot like the HD650 and yet he realizes that they're actually a bit warm while being pretty much completely off when it comes the HD650's musicality.

 

[SolarMystic]

I don't think that really detracts from his premise.

Something I've learnt and something I've tried to adopt is not to be a huge dickhead when people can't articulate sound correctly, which is something I'm still guilty of. The guy isn't an audiophile so it's interesting to see how he describes sound based on (often meaningless) audiophile terminology that gets thrown around on Head-Fi.

The HD650 sounding clinical and neutral? He probably means it sounds boring and slow. The reduced treble of the TH-X00? Sure, the bass and midrange is louder than the several peaks of treble that exist. The PM3 being neutral? If you won the planar driver roulette, you'd get one without exaggerated bass like the pair that Tyll had to review.

If people were able to accurately describe sound, then we wouldn't have a need for measurements. Instead, we have people who think the Sennheiser HD800 is neutral and think that silver cable can dramatically reduce the impact on a 6+dB treble peak.

I'm not knocking the guy for having his own subjective opinions. Though if we are going to discuss what he wrote, then we should at least recognize that his opinions do not accurately represent a lot of the headphones he is talking about.

For instance, a guy in a hd650 thread was talking about how he found them bright and fatiguing. Now that's fine for him, perhaps he's super treble sensitive, but we shouldn't give recommendations or start using bright and fatiguing as a description of the hd650 sound.

I actually agree with him about the state of mainstream headphones and what the average person wants from a headphone. Though I don't agree that bass is the sweetest part, as most of the music happens in the midrange to my ears.

Why do you call planar drivers a game of roulette? Audeze certainly has driver issues (particularly in their LCD-2 line) but companies like Hifiman and Oppo has great driver support. Oppo in general makes particularly nice headphones. Hifimans are a little more utilitarian in comparison, but still really good. (though cable quality leaves a lot to be desired) I also can't comment on their earlier models.

 

[Tommy DJ]

Again, I'm not really seeing where he's completely wrong in terms of description. If anything, he's writing like a typical person on Head-Fi who is throwing around imprecise adjectives like they do. Which is entirely what I expect from the majority of people who write anything about audio (i.e pretty worthless).

He claims the HD650 sound buttoned up and clinical, whatever the hell that means. But if I give him the benefit of doubt, I think he means that it sounds boring. Compared to the Master and Dynamic MH40 brought up in this thread, the mid-bass hump, pretty large bass distortion and treble roll off of the HD650 can make it sound extremely slow and boring - the MH40 has much much better bass distortion, extension, and linearity.

Yeah sure it not really a precise description of the sound signature, which is why I often listen and correlate to measurements, but I don't think he's wrong if I give the dude he benefit of doubt.

RE: driver roulette. Planar magnetic drivers are often inconsistent in terms of sound signature. Due to the tension and thinness of the planar magnetic driver, it's impossible to get the sheer consistency you can get from dynamic drivers. Hifiman is mostly good with this but their HE-1000 has shown some deviation between samples and so has the Oppo PM-3.

I'm definitely not saying you shouldn't buy planar magnetic headphones because shit the HE-6 has some serious bass to die for. But they're definitely nowhere near as consistent and this can result in two experienced listeners with similar tastes voice two quite different opinions.

Audeze has definitely shown driver reliability issues but when people talk about driver roulette with their headphones, they're definitely talking about getting a pair of drivers that are well matched and sound especially good.

 

[andylsun]

2170 yep.

Yeah! Awesome

 

[SolarMystic]

Again, I'm not really seeing where he's completely wrong in terms of description. If anything, he's writing like a typical person on Head-Fi who is throwing around imprecise adjectives like they do. Which is entirely what I expect from the majority of people who write anything about audio (i.e pretty worthless).

He claims the HD650 sound buttoned up and clinical, whatever the hell that means. But if I give him the benefit of doubt, I think he means that it sounds boring. Compared to the Master and Dynamic MH40 brought up in this thread, the mid-bass hump, pretty large bass distortion and treble roll off of the HD650 can make it sound extremely slow and boring - the MH40 has much much better bass distortion, extension, and linearity.

Yeah sure it not really a precise description of the sound signature, which is why I often listen and correlate to measurements, but I don't think he's wrong if I give the dude he benefit of doubt.

RE: driver roulette. Planar magnetic drivers are often inconsistent in terms of sound signature. Due to the tension and thinness of the planar magnetic driver, it's impossible to get the sheer consistency you can get from dynamic drivers. Hifiman is mostly good with this but their HE-1000 has shown some deviation between samples and so has the Oppo PM-3.

I'm definitely not saying you shouldn't buy planar magnetic headphones because shit the HE-6 has some serious bass to die for. But they're definitely nowhere near as consistent and this can result in two experienced listeners with similar tastes voice two quite different opinions.

Audeze has definitely shown driver reliability issues but when people talk about driver roulette with their headphones, they're definitely talking about getting a pair of drivers that are well matched and sound especially good.

This is kind of what I'm saying, I think we are closer to agreement than we are disagreement.

 

[szaromir]

I live in a big city and I am sooo tired of all the noise (traffic when walking and commuting with trams and trains). Would headphones with active noise cancelling help, are they actually effective? If so, are Bose QC25 worth the price since they seem the most popular?

 

[FluxWaveZ]

Hopefully this is the right place to ask; cross-posting from another thread:

I'll need to look more deeply into the thread, but I'm searching for something relatively specific:

- Wireless
- PC compatible
- Not Gold or Pulse
- Has a 3.5mm jack
- ~$100 (extending to $150 max.)

The left side of my Gold headset recently cracked after 1.5 years, making that side uncomfortably loose. Same thing happened with my Pulse headset a while back. I liked them until that point, but I'm not looking to go back because of those problems.

Currently eyeing the Turtle Beach Ear Force Stealth 400.

 

[Antiwhippy]

So before I get a mojo, here's my thoughts on sources so far.

Oppo HA-2 > Fiio X3II =(slightly >) Moto X play > Nexus 6P

Generally closer to each other to the point where I would say it's not worth it unless you're crazy, and it's especially not worth it on the Fiio X3II tier of products (especially seeing that the UI is far worse than a modern smartphone). The nexus 6p I still contend is OK but the more I listen to it the more I'm noticing slightly more interference and distortion that is especially noticeable on the upper mids, giving it a harsher tone and slight grain through the mids.

 

[Mad Max]

Hey everyone. I've had a pair of beyer DT770 pro's for about 4 years and using them for 8hrs a day seems to have taken a toll on them, to the point where they're now held together mostly by glue. So I'm looking to buy a new set of cans thats also a bit of an upgrade, for around €300. I'm mostly satisfied with these headphones, but what always irked me was the recessed midrange and the somewhat excessive treble. I also want some open cans for a change. With this in mind I looked around a bit and it seems that my best options would probably be:

Sennheiser HD650
AKG K712pro
Hifiman 400S (Hard to come by here for less than €400 though)

What do you guys think? For what it's worth I'll be driving them using an O2/ODAC combo, which I think should be sufficient for any of these hps.

 

[SolarMystic]

I've only heard the hd650 from your list, but those will certainly bring out the mids you've been missing.

Though all those are open headphones, while I believe your beyers were closed. These will leak sound and not isolate like your old ones.

 

[HiResDes]

Hey everyone. I've had a pair of beyer DT770 pro's for about 4 years and using them for 8hrs a day seems to have taken a toll on them, to the point where they're now held together mostly by glue. So I'm looking to buy a new set of cans thats also a bit of an upgrade, for around €300. I'm mostly satisfied with these headphones, but what always irked me was the recessed midrange and the somewhat excessive treble. I also want some open cans for a change. With this in mind I looked around a bit and it seems that my best options would probably be:

Sennheiser HD650
AKG K712pro
Hifiman 400S (Hard to come by here for less than €400 though)

What do you guys think? For what it's worth I'll be driving them using an O2/ODAC combo, which I think should be sufficient for any of these hps.

I'd also suggest:

Master Dynamic MH40 (Pretty much exactly what you want, but expensive)
ADL H118 (Would save you a bunch of money and give you what you want in terms of sound signature, though these are closed)
Fidelio X2 (though still slightly V-Shaped in some ways the midrange is a bit fuller than on the DT770 and the treble is definitely not as apparent)
AKG K612 Pro (Definitely a lot less bass, but incredible midrange and good soundstage, treble is still slightly extended but not peaky or sibilant at all...Oh and the price is great)

 

[LQX]

Hopefully this is the right place to ask; cross-posting from another thread:

I know you said wireless but I would seriously consider wired as your money will go further getting a better constructed if not sounding headphone at a similar price point you are willing to pay for wireless.

That said, those headphones you mention seem good and meets all your needs, the upgrade model is just $10 more on Amazon so I would probably go with those. My experience though with Turtle Beach headphones is that they look good in pictures but are rather flimsy with thin plastic.

Logitech has the G933. It's $200 but there is bound to be deal that drops them close to $150 so I would probably keep an eye on that. The G633, which is the same headset but wired is just $120 on Amazon and it is both USB and 3.5mm compatible so you can use it on your PC, consoles and other portable devices.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpelJr7owPI

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0148NPJ78/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[FluxWaveZ]

I know you said wireless but I would seriously consider wired as your money will go further getting a better constructed if not sounding headphone at a similar price point you are willing to pay for wireless.

That said, those headphones you mention seem good and meets all your needs, the upgrade model is just $10 more on Amazon so I would probably go with those. My experience though with Turtle Beach headphones is that they look good in pictures but are rather flimsy with thin plastic.

Logitech has the G933. It's $200 but there is bound to be deal that drops them close to $150 so I would probably keep an eye on that. The G633, which is the same headset but wired is just $120 on Amazon and it is both USB and 3.5mm compatible so you can use it on your PC, consoles and other portable devices.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpelJr7owPI

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0148NPJ78/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Thanks for the advice. I've avoided wired for a bit now because of I've had experience with (cheaper) wired headsets dying on me sooner than I'd like, but I suppose that's probably not an issue with higher end headsets.

Around $150 is probably where it gets too expensive for me since I'm not an audiophile, but I'll have more to choose from now.

 

[Realyn]

Roughly 2 days ago the left side of my DT880s started to black out from time to time. Not like in a case of a broken cable where it's crackling and everything, but completly gone. Thought that a wire came loose and wanted to fix it this weekend. Well, the headphones didn't want to last that long.

Opened them up earlier and I think one pin is broken. The pin of the blue cable is very loose I'm pretty sure that I could pull it out. http://imgur.com/a/B31PY

Is there anything I can do to fix this besides ordering a new driver from Beyer? I haven't soldered before, but I'm sure I could manage some basic stuff.

 

[Blitzhex]

Roughly 2 days ago the left side of my DT880s started to black out from time to time. Not like in a case of a broken cable where it's crackling and everything, but completly gone. Thought that a wire came loose and wanted to fix it this weekend. Well, the headphones didn't want to last that long.

Opened them up earlier and I think one pin is broken. The pin of the blue cable is very loose I'm pretty sure that I could pull it out. http://imgur.com/a/B31PY

Is there anything I can do to fix this besides ordering a new driver from Beyer? I haven't soldered before, but I'm sure I could manage some basic stuff.

I don't know much about that driver design, but an audio shop or some electronics repair shop could solder the wire or replace it if it's frayed for a small fee.

 

[Realyn]

I don't know much about that driver design, but an audio shop or some electronics repair shop could solder the wire or replace it if it's frayed for a small fee.

I don't believe that the cable is a problem here. The two "pins"(whatever their name is, where the cables are solded on) are rock solid and don't move, while the right one is very loose and moves around when pushed. Isn't that more likely to be a problem?

 

[Mad Max]

I'd also suggest:

Master Dynamic MH40 (Pretty much exactly what you want, but expensive)
ADL H118 (Would save you a bunch of money and give you what you want in terms of sound signature, though these are closed)
Fidelio X2 (though still slightly V-Shaped in some ways the midrange is a bit fuller than on the DT770 and the treble is definitely not as apparent)
AKG K612 Pro (Definitely a lot less bass, but incredible midrange and good soundstage, treble is still slightly extended but not peaky or sibilant at all...Oh and the price is great)

Thanks for the recommendations. I actually just found a shop close to me that has most of the good beyer, senn and akg stuff in stock and they also seem to have the x2. So I'll go check these out in person during the coming days. The K612 pro seems especially interesting given the good things I read about it combined with its price point.

I don't believe that the cable is a problem here. The two "pins"(whatever their name is, where the cables are solded on) are rock solid and don't move, while the right one is very loose and moves around when pushed. Isn't that more likely to be a problem?

Looks like a pain to solder then, since you probably can't reach the point where it's attached. You could try to measure the resistance using a DMM to figure out when its in the right place (i.e. when the resistance is lowest) and fix it there with some hot glue or w/e.

 

[Realyn]

Looks like a pain to solder then, since you probably can't reach the point where it's attached. You could try to measure the resistance using a DMM to figure out when its in the right place (i.e. when the resistance is lowest) and fix it there with some hot glue or w/e.

Excuse me, I'm a noob when it comes to this. Couldn't I just do what you're suggesting by pluging in the headphones and then move the pin around? Because I tried that to no avail.

What's my best step to eliminate faulty components here? Should I switch the red/blue cables?

 

[Mad Max]

Excuse me, I'm a noob when it comes to this. Couldn't I just do what you're suggesting by pluging in the headphones and then move the pin around? Because I tried that to no avail.

What's my best step to eliminate faulty components here? Should I switch the red/blue cables?

Yeah that's basically the same idea, but if you move around the pin while the headphones are plugged in and short circuit two pins by accident you can damage your amplifier/soundcard. So watch out for that.

But I assume that only the left driver is not working? Because in that case it seems almost certain that that loose pin is causing the problem. The easiest way to test this is by using a multimeter (DMM) that can measure resistance, and measuring the resistance between the contacts of the copper and blue wires, which should be a few hundred ohms at most. (depending on the model of dt880 you have) You can buy a multimeter for about 10 €/$, and they're quite useful for diagnosing broken cables and other electrical equipment. Otherwise desoldering and swapping the red and blue wires as you said should also work in this case, but again don't short them while you have it plugged in.

 

[Realyn]

Yeah that's basically the same idea, but if you move around the pin while the headphones are plugged in and short the red/blue wires to the copper one (ground) by accident you can damage your amplifier/soundcard. So watch out for that.

But I assume that only the left driver is not working? Because in that case it seems almost certain that that loose pin is causing the problem. The easiest way to test this is by using a multimeter (DMM) that can measure resistance, and measuring the resistance between the copper and blue wires, which should be a few hundred ohms at most. (depending on the model of 880dt you have) You can buy a multimeter for about 10 €/$, and they're quite useful for diagnosing broken cables and other electrical equipment. Otherwise desoldering and swapping the red and blue wires as you said should also work in this case, but again don't short circuit them while you have it plugged in.

Yes only the left isn't working.It's a 880pro with 250ohm. Sadly I don't have equipment which makes it a bit hard to find the faulty part. I'll buy a multimeter(and a soldering iron while I'm at it) on monday and then check what to order. Thanks for the help!

 

[Antiwhippy]

Mojo get~

 

[Waikis]

Mojo get~

Ha, so I take it you were impressed by it then?

 

[Antiwhippy]

Well, enough for me to get them.

Like, I'm not super blown away by it like most people seem to be about it, but I think that it's a definite upgrade to the Oppo HA-2. The most immediate improvement I've heard is the articulation between the upper bass to lower mids is better. Tighter mid bass. Feels slightly more open. I hear some sub-lower bass roll off but it's slight, and it's still not a problem with the IEMs I use because it has sub-lower bass for days. Still need a bit more time with it to have a fully formed opinion though.

Also I kind of rationalised it like this. I really want a DAC that has optical, so my options ares to either keep the oppo ha-2 and supplement my desktop experience with maybe a schiit stack, or get the mojo which is kind of an all-in-one solution, and sell off my HA-2 to lower the price.

It probably doesn't make sense but hell I got it anyway!

Also this thing is built like a tank goddamn. I feel like I could pretty much use it for self-defense.

It's pretty thick but it's so compact I kinda use it as a grip for my big ass, slippery phone.

 

[LQX]

Ugh, the Mojo Chord looks like cheap version of Simon Says. Sure it might be the best thing ever but man I could never get myself to spend that much on something that looks like that.

Thanks for the advice. I've avoided wired for a bit now because of I've had experience with (cheaper) wired headsets dying on me sooner than I'd like, but I suppose that's probably not an issue with higher end headsets.

Around $150 is probably where it gets too expensive for me since I'm not an audiophile, but I'll have more to choose from now.

Yeah, I definitely get what you saying in regards to cheap headphones, to me that is the number one reason why paying a little more is worth it in the long term.

If $150 is your limit I would recommend the Sennheiser HD 598. One of the best headphones period.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042A8CW2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

The Sennheiser HD 558, Philips SHP9500 and Sony MDR7506 are cheaper at less than $100. Not sure if you have good sound card but seeing as how you are saving more than $50 on these options an inexpensive DAC/AMP or sound card might be worth it for a cleaner sound though not really needed.

Does having a mic matter? If so I would still take a look at that Logitech G633. I even liked the Logitech G430 which is under $60 but is very comfortable and built well. I've never tried it but The HyperX Cloud II seems to be getting a lot of praise. And your first choice, the Turtle Beach stacks up to those so it still might be your best choice if it is mainly for a console.

 

[Benedict]

Just a feedback regarding Xiaomi Piston Headphones 3rd Generation I bought a couple of months ago at merimobiles.
These are probably the worst in-ears I've ever encountered. The build quality is atrocious.
From the first week the cable started to twirl and twist around itself.
Quickly the fabric shielding the cables started to shrink at "folding-spots, and soon the cable started to pop out at some of these places.




I cut open the little bit of fabric that was left at the worst break-point and this is what happened:

 

[LQX]

Ugh, that is why I absolutely hate fabric sheeting on headphone cables, no matter the quality, because if the cables get twisted underneath it eventually starts protruding and rips the sheeting overtime. It has happened with more than few of my headphones and is happening right now with my current in-ears and I fear it will also happen to my TH-X00.

 

[HiResDes]

Ugh, the Mojo Chord looks like cheap version of Simon Says. Sure it might be the best thing ever but man I could never get myself to spend that much on something that looks like that.




Yeah, I definitely get what you saying in regards to cheap headphones, to me that is the number one reason why paying a little more is worth it in the long term.

If $150 is your limit I would recommend the Sennheiser HD 598. One of the best headphones period.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042A8CW2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

The Sennheiser HD 558, Philips SHP9500 and Sony MDR7506 are cheaper at less than $100. Not sure if you have good sound card but seeing as how you are saving more than $50 on these options an inexpensive DAC/AMP or sound card might be worth it for a cleaner sound though not really needed.

Does having a mic matter? If so I would still take a look at that Logitech G633. I even liked the Logitech G430 which is under $60 but is very comfortable and built well. I've never tried it but The HyperX Cloud II seems to be getting a lot of praise. And your first choice, the Turtle Beach stacks up to those so it still might be your best choice if it is mainly for a console.

Also would recommend these if you want to save some money:

Somic MH463 and then replace pads with Turtle X12

Reviews if you're in doubt

 

[yagal]

Ugh, the Mojo Chord looks like cheap version of Simon Says. Sure it might be the best thing ever but man I could never get myself to spend that much on something that looks like that.

+1

 

[HiResDes]

I don't give a fuck what it looks like when it has that kind of performance and value.

 

[Bloodember]

Just a feedback regarding Xiaomi Piston Headphones 3rd Generation I bought a couple of months ago at merimobiles.
These are probably the worst in-ears I've ever encountered. The build quality is atrocious.
From the first week the cable started to twirl and twist around itself.
Quickly the fabric shielding the cables started to shrink at "folding-spots, and soon the cable started to pop out at some of these places.




I cut open the little bit of fabric that was left at the worst break-point and this is what happened:

Are you sure they're real? There are fake ones. There are 2 sets in my house and neither are coming apart.

 

[disastermouse]

Hey everyone. I've had a pair of beyer DT770 pro's for about 4 years and using them for 8hrs a day seems to have taken a toll on them, to the point where they're now held together mostly by glue. So I'm looking to buy a new set of cans thats also a bit of an upgrade, for around €300. I'm mostly satisfied with these headphones, but what always irked me was the recessed midrange and the somewhat excessive treble. I also want some open cans for a change. With this in mind I looked around a bit and it seems that my best options would probably be:

Sennheiser HD650
AKG K712pro
Hifiman 400S (Hard to come by here for less than €400 though)

What do you guys think? For what it's worth I'll be driving them using an O2/ODAC combo, which I think should be sufficient for any of these hps.

O2 won't drive the HD650s very well. Probably not the HE-400 either, unless you get the HE-400S.

 

[Antiwhippy]

Ugh, the Mojo Chord looks like cheap version of Simon Says. Sure it might be the best thing ever but man I could never get myself to spend that much on something that looks like that.

It looks better in person, but that might be the AUD$899 talking.

But yeah, kinda wish chord would drop the whole light balls thing, if only to make the thing slimmer.

 

[Dynamite Ringo Matsuri]

It's not even that, it's just that the lights are god damned confusing as shit. I had the Hugo for a few months and I couldn't tell you what any of those fucking lights meant. And now the Mojo's got even more lights? Just ugh.

 

[Antiwhippy]

Nah, it's actually not that complicated, if only because they bothered to label it this time. 1 power on/off button, one volume down button and one volume up button.

Like, do you really need light balls for that chord? Goddamn.

 

[Tommy DJ]

O2 won't drive the HD650s very well. Probably not the HE-400 either, unless you get the HE-400S.

The O2 drives the HD650 fine just like how Schiit's low end is perfectly fine for the HD650. The fundamental problem with the O2 is that the high gain at 6.5x will clip most DAC inputs, which is obviously bad for anything, so you want to buy an O2 with lowered high gain to use with a desktop DAC.

If you've been reading Changstar/Superbestaudiofriends, they've got a really strange beef with nwavguy related to the people who proclaim that the O2/ODAC are the be all and end all of all DAC and amplifier products. I don't think it's anywhere near as bad as they claim the products to be.

The problem with the O2 and ODAC in this day and age is that it's basically more expensive than the base Schiit Magni 2 and Modi 2 so...

 

[LQX]

O2 won't drive the HD650s very well. Probably not the HE-400 either, unless you get the HE-400S.

I have disagree with this. My O2+ODAC was able to drive the HD650 and HD600 with no issues. I know many say you need a tube amp to get the best out of those headphones but found the O2+ODAC and also the Asgard 2 was able to stand up to them. Never tried the HE-400 or S but the O2+ODAC is more than enough for the 400i.

 

[Antiwhippy]

Yes, optical works flawlessly! Being able to use my headphones with my ps3 makes the mojo worth it.

Question for optical though. You know those plastic nubs that covers the toslink connectors? Do I need to keep them on when they're not plugged in?

 

[Waikis]

Yes, optical works flawlessly! Being able to use my headphones with my ps3 makes the mojo worth it.

Question for optical though. You know those plastic nubs that covers the toslink connectors? Do I need to keep them on when they're not plugged in?

Helps keep the dust out I guess.

It's not even that, it's just that the lights are god damned confusing as shit. I had the Hugo for a few months and I couldn't tell you what any of those fucking lights meant. And now the Mojo's got even more lights? Just ugh.

Don't know how it was with Hugo but at least with Mojo, the colour for volume and input follows the wave length colour spectrum (Red to Violet). Still not the most user friendly design of course.

 

[Benedict]

Are you sure they're real? There are fake ones. There are 2 sets in my house and neither are coming apart.

According to Merimobiles website they are real.
And the company seem to have good reviews.
Here are some more pictures on the packaging and headset.
Edit: When doing a quick view on some fakes vs real comparisons it seems mine are real.

 

[DagsJT]

O2 won't drive the HD650s very well. Probably not the HE-400 either, unless you get the HE-400S.

I'm currently borrowing a friends O2 and it's driving my HD650's very well. My friend has had amps like the Aune T1 and V90-HPA and swears the O2 is in another league when used with his HD650s.