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[Rur0ni]

Okay random.

My machine reboots without warning. Nothing in event viewer. It started maybe a week ago, and has gotten progressively worse. It's rebooted maybe ten times this morning. No warning signs from the OS of a crash of any sort, just as if the reset button has been pushed.

Going to do a quick reinstall (but I just did that recently, barely anything installed...). Wonder if it's the mobo...?

 

[SHADES]

Finally got my new rig all put together. Loving the performance so far - such a huge upgrade from my previous pre-built set.

Power supply is a CORSAIR CXM series CX600M 600W.

Nice I have a question though, are those temps under any load or at idle? My 4770 sits at 28' idle and no more than 52' under load (DayZ) GTX 670 at 30' idle and max 64' again DayZ. Just seems a tad high IF at idle(unless it's warm where you are of course?)


Also anyone have any idea' sat what USB device not recognised? I've been getting this error at start up for the last few days but windows recognises all my usb devices and they're all working properly?

Any ideas cause/fix?

 

[Alduin]

Some sort of hardware error then. My guess, and again this is REALLY a guess, is it could be the GPU. If no one else has a better idea, try removing the GPU and installing windows using the integrated GPU and see what happens.

Oh man, thanks for your input but I fixed it! I'm so happy right now!
Apparently, all it took was a BIOS update. It was really outdated (version 1602 instead of the current 2004 version.)

Thanks GAF for being helpful in this thread. Learned a lot by lurking the thread. Wouldn't have accomplished building a PC without you guys!

 

[Woffls]

I have a CoolerMaster V850 and the fan almost never turns on. When it does I can't even hear it, I only know by seeing the fan spinning. It may as well be fanless.

I was half expecting that given the lack of fanless PSUs on the market. I'll just go for one with active cooling and a low db level. I'd get the V650 but I can't seem to find that range in the UK.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Sami+]

Nice I have a question though, are those temps under any load or at idle? My 4770 sits at 28' idle and no more than 52' under load (DayZ) GTX 670 at 30' idle and max 64' again DayZ. Just seems a tad high IF at idle(unless it's warm where you are of course?)

I'm at idle - it's really warm and humid over here though. Florida in the dead of summer, haha. Temperature in my room is somewhere between 85'F and 90'F. Video rendering cranked the i5 up to 73' but a bit of Googling told me that's okay considering how heavy of a load it was.

Edit - Oh, the GTX 760 fell down to 40'. Must've been cooling down since I'd just finished playing Spec Ops a few minutes prior when I took the screenie.

 

[adamantypants]

Okay random.

My machine reboots without warning. Nothing in event viewer. It started maybe a week ago, and has gotten progressively worse. It's rebooted maybe ten times this morning. No warning signs from the OS of a crash of any sort, just as if the reset button has been pushed.

Going to do a quick reinstall (but I just did that recently, barely anything installed...). Wonder if it's the mobo...?

What's your setup? I had the same issue and was convinced it was my PSU when it turned out it was Windows 8.1's shitty hibernation/shut down management.


Edit: Wait, if it constantly shuts down like that it might actually be a faulty PSU. Paperclip test that

 

[mkenyon]

Nice I have a question though, are those temps under any load or at idle? My 4770 sits at 28' idle and no more than 52' under load (DayZ) GTX 670 at 30' idle and max 64' again DayZ. Just seems a tad high IF at idle(unless it's warm where you are of course?)


Also anyone have any idea' sat what USB device not recognised? I've been getting this error at start up for the last few days but windows recognises all my usb devices and they're all working properly?

Any ideas cause/fix?

One of your USB controllers doesn't have the drivers installed. Go to your motherboard manufacturer's website and download all of the relevant USB drivers.

 

[SHADES]

I'm at idle - it's really warm and humid over here though. Florida in the dead of summer, haha. Temperature in my room is somewhere between 85'F and 90'F. Video rendering cranked the i5 up to 73' but a bit of Googling told me that's okay considering how heavy of a load it was.

Edit - Oh, the GTX 760 fell down to 40'. Must've been cooling down since I'd just finished playing Spec Ops a few minutes prior when I took the screenie.

Ah ok, that would be it. Hottest day of the year here so far (UK) iirc it's hit 30' in some areas.

One of your USB controllers doesn't have the drivers installed. Go to your motherboard manufacturer's website and download all of the relevant USB drivers.

I'll give that a go, thank you.

 

[Rur0ni]

What's your setup? I had the same issue and was convinced it was my PSU when it turned out it was Windows 8.1's shitty hibernation/shut down management.


Edit: Wait, if it constantly shuts down like that it might actually be a faulty PSU. Paperclip test that

P9X79 WS, 3930k, GTX 670 SLI, 2x 512 MX100, 64GB DDR3, Corsair AX850 Gold.

I just reinstalled using the built-in reset PC function, no reboots yet (they were practically back to back almost there for a minute). I haven't ran updates yet though, so I'm curious if it's an OS issue when I get fully patched.

What were you saying about the hibernation bit?

Edit: Well that was short lived, rebooted again as I was downloading updates.

 

[Dries]

Once you change the speed, it's no longer on XMP. XMP is there to have the memory set at the factory binned speed/timing. Going outside of that can cause boot issues.

So you're saying I should keep my system memory multiplier at AUTO instead of 1600?

 

[NoRéN]

Need some help. Hopefully I'm just missing something obvious and some fresh minds can resolve the issue.

For the last week I'll have a "no connection detected" message with a red X over my Ethernet symbol despite being connected. Moving the Ethernet cable from one router port to another fixed the issue. Today it stopped working completely. Relevant info(?):

- gigabyte z87x-d3h motherboard
- already tried uninstalling network adapter driver
- wireless working fine (posting from a tablet at the moment)
- new Ethernet cable arriving tomorrow from amazon just in case

Any ideas?

 

[mkenyon]

So you're saying I should keep my system memory multiplier at AUTO instead of 1600?

Yes, with XMP. The 'auto' setting directs the IMC to use what is on the XMP.

 

[LilJoka]

I'm still leery of Crucial drives. My two M4's have both suffered from just disappearing from the system and hanging Windows, requiring a reboot and then the drives not even showing up in the BIOS until I cycle power a couple of times. It only happens every few months, but it is annoying. I thought it was a motherboard issue, but I had it happen on my newly built Z97 system minutes after finishing a windows install, so I think the drives are the most likely culprit at this point.

This is the sole reason I haven't gotten a single larger MX100 to replace my two M4s.

Have you updated the SSD firmware? Ive had great reliability from my Crucial M4's. I know at one point there was some issue that after a certain amount of hours the SSD would just not do anything, but it was fixed with a FW update.

Need some help. Hopefully I'm just missing something obvious and some fresh minds can resolve the issue.

For the last week I'll have a "no connection detected" message with a red X over my Ethernet symbol despite being connected. Moving the Ethernet cable from one router port to another fixed the issue. Today it stopped working completely. Relevant info(?):

- gigabyte z87x-d3h motherboard
- already tried uninstalling network adapter driver
- wireless working fine (posting from a tablet at the moment)
- new Ethernet cable arriving tomorrow from amazon just in case

Any ideas?

Ive had this before this is how i fixed it.

Go to device manager, right click the Ethernet controller causing the problem and click uninstall.
Windows will say, do you want to delete the driver? Say "No" to that.
Then once uninstalled, hit F5 to refresh the Device Manager and itll re install the old NIC driver. Problem should now be solved.

Ive found installing the latest Intel Ethernet driver here helps as board manufacturers always are out of date.
http://www.intel.com/support/network/sb/cs-006120.htm

 

[stang6604]

You can't overclock an I5-3570. It had to be an I5-3570K.

well alright then. guess that answers my question. thanks

 

[teiresias]

Have you updated the SSD firmware? Ive had great reliability from my Crucial M4's. I know at one point there was some issue that after a certain amount of hours the SSD would just not do anything, but it was fixed with a FW update.

Yeah both of them have long been on the latest firmware. The one thing I haven't done is the whole thing where you boot into the BIOS and have the drives powered for half an hour with the SATA data cable disconnected to see if that clears it up once and for all.

The Samsung 850 series is looking mighty appealing though so I'll probably end up getting a single 512GB of one of those in the future. Right now I'm running a 64GB M4 as my Windows drive and a 256GB M4 as my other apps and games drive.

 

[LilJoka]

well alright then. guess that answers my question. thanks

You can overclock it 4 multipliers above stock. I have my i7 3770 at 4.25Ghz with a small bclk overclock and multiplier at 42.

 

[mkenyon]

You can overclock it 4 multipliers above stock. I have my i7 3770 at 4.25Ghz with a small bclk overclock and multiplier at 42.

Isn't stock 3.4 GHz?

 

[LilJoka]

Isn't stock 3.4 GHz?

Yes, just double checked, it lets me do x42 Multi, so its 3 bins above the highest Turbo clocks, and i can run this as all core turbo speeds.

I believe the baord may have something to do with it, some boards may not let you go as far. Im using the P8Z77I-Deluxe.

 

[LilJoka]

P9X79 WS, 3930k, GTX 670 SLI, 2x 512 MX100, 64GB DDR3, Corsair AX850 Gold.

I just reinstalled using the built-in reset PC function, no reboots yet (they were practically back to back almost there for a minute). I haven't ran updates yet though, so I'm curious if it's an OS issue when I get fully patched.

What were you saying about the hibernation bit?

Edit: Well that was short lived, rebooted again as I was downloading updates.

What is "built in PC reset function"? And what OS?
If you want to eliminate an OS problem do a fresh installation of Windows yourself and not rely on dodgy Windows functions that probably make things worse.

Try single stick of RAM.
Make a Memtest86+ USB and test your RAM.
Try a single GPU.

Alright guys so this is my build:


Just finished assembling everything up (a few hours ago actually) and all that's left was to install Windows. I'm installing Windows with a flash drive and every time after the final process of installing, or when it reboots to complete the installation, I get a BSOD. I tried both Windows 7 as well as Windows 8. Also tried to install Windows on both the HDD and SSD. Same results; BSOD.
Can anyone help? I'm so tired.

Its possible the installer is corrupted, there is a large file called Install.wim (2-3gb) that in my experience can get corrupted when transferring causing all sorts of issues. I would therefore try a different flash drive firstly. Or download Hashtab, and check the file hash of the Install.wim file on the USB drive against the one in the ISO. You can use Winrar to decompress the ISO.

Location is as follows
\sources\install.wim

 

[Thraktor]

All the kit for my build has finally arrived:

It'll be my first proper gaming PC after the best part of a decade gaming on laptops, so I'm really looking forward to putting it together. I won't have time to actually do the build until Sunday, but it's something to look forward to.

One last question for people: I'm currently gaming on a Boot Camp partition on my MacBook Pro, but I want to do a completely fresh install rather than trying to clone everything over. Does anyone have any advice for copying game saves over from one system to another? I don't mind re-downloading my games (I've got 120Mbps broadband), but I want to make sure all my saves are copied over before I delete the Boot Camp partition.

I know anything that supports Steam Cloud will magically transfer saves across, as will uPlay games (I think), but not everything does, and with ~400 games on Steam, plus a bunch from GOG, Origin, etc, I don't necessarily want to go about tracking down the save files for each one. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[crazy monkey]

Hello,

Just a question. My requirement are:

A small form Factor PC

Can play game at 720P 30 fps at medium setting.

( Graphics are not important for me but my laptop on which i play games on 480 p literally turns off when it gets heated after every 20 min.)

Can play 1080p video.

What will be the cost of this? If I built one/ If I buy one prebuilt

I am thinking of doing this under my tv set.

 

[kiyomi]

All the kit for my build has finally arrived:

It'll be my first proper gaming PC after the best part of a decade gaming on laptops, so I'm really looking forward to putting it together. I won't have time to actually do the build until Sunday, but it's something to look forward to.

One last question for people: I'm currently gaming on a Boot Camp partition on my MacBook Pro, but I want to do a completely fresh install rather than trying to clone everything over. Does anyone have any advice for copying game saves over from one system to another? I don't mind re-downloading my games (I've got 120Mbps broadband), but I want to make sure all my saves are copied over before I delete the Boot Camp partition.

I know anything that supports Steam Cloud will magically transfer saves across, as will uPlay games (I think), but not everything does, and with ~400 games on Steam, plus a bunch from GOG, Origin, etc, I don't necessarily want to go about tracking down the save files for each one. Any advice would be appreciated.

Upload them to Dropbox.

 

[K' Dash]

So I just got my new gtx 780, this is my first nvidia card so i have a couple of questions:

Should I uninstall the AMD drivers before switching cards?

Is there a way to remove everything AMD for sure?

 

[The Llama]

Hello,

Just a question. My requirement are:

A small form Factor PC

Can play game at 720P 30 fps at medium setting.

( Graphics are not important for me but my laptop on which i play games on 480 p literally turns off when it gets heated after every 20 min.)

Can play 1080p video.

What will be the cost of this? If I built one/ If I buy one prebuilt

I am thinking of doing this under my tv set.

You can really spend as much or as little as you want. Would be much more helpful for us if you figure out a budget and let us know.

 

[Thraktor]

Hello,

Just a question. My requirement are:

A small form Factor PC

Can play game at 720P 30 fps at medium setting.

( Graphics are not important for me but my laptop on which i play games on 480 p literally turns off when it gets heated after every 20 min.)

Can play 1080p video.

What will be the cost of this? If I built one/ If I buy one prebuilt

I am thinking of doing this under my tv set.

Check out this post on the first page of the thread if you're interested in building your own. The Node 304 is good if you're looking for something to put under your TV (that's where mine's going), and the cheapest build there would just about do what you're asking for $500. That said, moving up to a Core i3 and 260/270/750Ti would give you much better performance for not that much more money.

Upload them to Dropbox.

I'm fine with transferring them over (I'll just do so over my home network), it's more about actually finding them all on the hard-drive. Is there a particular directory where game saves tend to live?

 

[JordanN]

Bumping for a new page.

I should change the budget. I only have $200 to spend on a new GPU and PSU. I can put up with my monitor for now.

Edit: My PC is on its way out. Just had the GPU completely start flickering. I rebooted it and got it working but I fear it's not going to last.

I'm hoping to replace the GPU, PSU.

Specs:
CPU: i7 860
GPU: HD 7770 (dying)
RAM: 12GB
Monitor: Asus Vh236 [(ignore)
PSU: 300 watt (I'm surprised I got away with this)
MOBO: Intel dh55tc

I already got a hard drive, windows 7, PC Case and mouse + keyboard.

Budget: $200 (though I can go a bit more if possible). I'm in Canada.

Other: I mostly do 3D modeling and level design in Unreal Engine 4. Deadline is very urgent, I'm hoping to replace this immediately. I never overclocked.

 

[Thraktor]

Bumping for a new page.

I should change the budget. I only have $200 to spend on a new GPU and PSU. I can put up with my monitor for now.

The Antec VP450's $35 according to the OP, so that and the best GPU you can get for $165. You should be able to get a R9 270 with a decent aftermarket fan for that kind of money, which you could overclock up to match the 270X.

 

[stang6604]

You can overclock it 4 multipliers above stock. I have my i7 3770 at 4.25Ghz with a small bclk overclock and multiplier at 42.

oh ok. i might have to look in to it. what kind of cooling do you have?

 

[Hazaro]

vP450 or CX430 plus a 750Ti SC or 265 dunno if amd or not matters for Dev stuff.

 

[NoRéN]

Ive had this before this is how i fixed it.

Go to device manager, right click the Ethernet controller causing the problem and click uninstall.
Windows will say, do you want to delete the driver? Say "No" to that.
Then once uninstalled, hit F5 to refresh the Device Manager and itll re install the old NIC driver. Problem should now be solved.

Ive found installing the latest Intel Ethernet driver here helps as board manufacturers always are out of date.
http://www.intel.com/support/network/sb/cs-006120.htm

Thank you for the response.

Unfortunately, that did not exactly fix the issue. It did however lead me to have the latest drivers installed so that's good.

Here's what did work somehow and I would appreciate it if someone explained to me why and if there are any drawbacks from this fix.

LINK SPEED: I changed the link speed for the ethernet connection from Auto Negotiation to 10Mbps Half Duplex.

What does that mean and how did that fix my issue?

 

[Tablo]

Upload them to OneDrive.

Shameless OneDrive plug xP

 

[Rur0ni]

What is "built in PC reset function"? And what OS?
If you want to eliminate an OS problem do a fresh installation of Windows yourself and not rely on dodgy Windows functions that probably make things worse.

Try single stick of RAM.
Make a Memtest86+ USB and test your RAM.
Try a single GPU.



Its possible the installer is corrupted, there is a large file called Install.wim (2-3gb) that in my experience can get corrupted when transferring causing all sorts of issues. I would therefore try a different flash drive firstly. Or download Hashtab, and check the file hash of the Install.wim file on the USB drive against the one in the ISO. You can use Winrar to decompress the ISO.

Location is as follows
\sources\install.wim

Windows 8.1 U1. FYI: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/restore-refresh-reset-pc

I believe that essentially reapplies the WIM while maintaining licensing information. Works quite handily.

I think corruption would lead to more hard locking or blue screening. I've had nothing of the sort except what is essentially an unexpected reboot.

Rolling back the video driver from the latest nVidia beta to WHQL has seemingly (for now) stabilized things. If this is the culprit, then meh, hopefully the next WHQL doesn't carry what's in the beta to cause such a problem. Else it's as you say (corrupt install, somehow), or a hardware issue.

 

[Thraktor]

Thank you for the response.

Unfortunately, that did not exactly fix the issue. It did however lead me to have the latest drivers installed so that's good.

Here's what did work somehow and I would appreciate it if someone explained to me why and if there are any drawbacks from this fix.

LINK SPEED: I changed the link speed for the ethernet connection from Auto Negotiation to 10Mbps Half Duplex.

What does that mean and how did that fix my issue?

It means you've got a very slow ethernet connection now!

Seriously, though, it seems that your network card and router/switch have had difficulty negotiating the transmit rate (it's likely that your network card is attempting to transmit at a higher rate than the router/switch can accept, or vice versa).

What kind of router/switch do you have it connected to, and what kind of cable are you using to connect it (CAT 5, CAT 5e or CAT 6)?

If it's gigabit ethernet compatible and you've got a CAT6 cable, then you should be able to set it to 1000Mbps full duplex.

If it's gigabit ethernet compatible and you've got a CAT5e cable, then set it to 1000Mbps half duplex.

If it's only 100Mbps compatible and/or you're only using a CAT5 cable, then set it to 100Mbps full duplex.

If you've got the right settings but it's still causing issues, try swapping out the ethernet cable.

 

[NoRéN]

It means you've got a very slow ethernet connection now!

Seriously, though, it seems that your network card and router/switch have had difficulty negotiating the transmit rate (it's likely that your network card is attempting to transmit at a higher rate than the router/switch can accept, or vice versa).

What kind of router/switch do you have it connected to, and what kind of cable are you using to connect it (CAT 5, CAT 5e or CAT 6)?

If it's gigabit ethernet compatible and you've got a CAT6 cable, then you should be able to set it to 1000Mbps full duplex.

If it's gigabit ethernet compatible and you've got a CAT5e cable, then set it to 1000Mbps half duplex.

If it's only 100Mbps compatible and/or you're only using a CAT5 cable, then set it to 100Mbps full duplex.

If you've got the right settings but it's still causing issues, try swapping out the ethernet cable.

Ok, things are making sense now. here's what i got:

Motorola SURFboard SB6141 Modem

Linksys E2500 Dual band Router

Cheap ethernet cable from amazon

I'm starting to think you may be right on the problem being the ethernet cable. Ordering a replacement now.

Also, while posting, internet connection dropped. Switch Link Speed back to Auto Negotiation and switched ethernet cable and it's working again.

 

[Thraktor]

It's a 100Mbps router, so set it to 100Mbps full duplex and try to make sure you've got a decent cable between it and the PC and you should be fine.

 

[NoRéN]

It's a 100Mbps router, so set it to 100Mbps full duplex and try to make sure you've got a decent cable between it and the PC and you should be fine.

Checking reviews on the cable I have it looks like it was falsely advertised as Cat5e when it wasn't. Right now the link speed is on auto and working so I'll leave it as is and wait for the replacement to arrive. I'll make sure to get a cable with good reviews, Cat5e or Cat6.

 

[KScorp]

I'm going to be building very soon! Here's what I have so far (parts that are yet to be purchased in bold):

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($7.81 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($148.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Already Owned)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($136.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card (Purchased)
Case: Antec P280 ATX Mid Tower Case (Already Owned)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($117.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($21.80 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (32/64-bit) (Purchased)

Main uses will be gaming, emulating, and heavy multitasking.

I have a decent chunk of my budget still remaining for the PC (couple hundred), but I'm not really sure where the money would be best used. I considered getting a supplementary SSD, but 256GB has been enough for my needs. Faster RAM was another possibility, but I can't find any faster sets that don't have a large heat spreader (and I'm not too sure about 1.65v sets either).

If there really isn't any meaningful upgrade besides more SSD space, I'll just get 512GB MX100, partition it for games / other massive programs, and enjoy not having to move things around every now and then.

 

[McBryBry]

Just put up a thread for this, figured I'd post here too. I think this is legit?

http://wccftech.com/nvidia-release-date-gtx-880-gtx-870-october-november/

 

[Hazaro]

Just put up a thread for this, figured I'd post here too. I think this is legit?

http://wccftech.com/nvidia-release-date-gtx-880-gtx-870-october-november/

>WCCF
There's usually _some_ truth in there, somewhere.

At least link the original article

 

[adamantypants]

P9X79 WS, 3930k, GTX 670 SLI, 2x 512 MX100, 64GB DDR3, Corsair AX850 Gold.

I just reinstalled using the built-in reset PC function, no reboots yet (they were practically back to back almost there for a minute). I haven't ran updates yet though, so I'm curious if it's an OS issue when I get fully patched.

What were you saying about the hibernation bit?

Edit: Well that was short lived, rebooted again as I was downloading updates.

To answer your question, I doubt it's the hibernation issue I was having. Basically, Windows wasn't properly saving the state before shutdown so a reboot command/error lingered in the hiberfil.sys causing reboots on my machine.

Like liljoka says, eliminate those variables. If those are all working, I'm willing to bet that it's your PSU. Barring that, double check your mobo for swollen capacitors.

 

[Apath]

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, however I don't think it's worth starting a new thread:

Does anyone have a recommendation for a cheap 22" monitor wall mount? I have an old 22" Asus LCD monitor (purchased in 2008) that I want to put on my wall, and am looking for the cheapest option. I don't need anything fancy, just a mount that is stable and won't drop the monitor.

Looking at reviews on Amazon for $10-$15 mounts, I am a little concerned by the negative reviews so I was hoping someone here could point me in the right direction or give me more trusted feedback.

 

[McBryBry]

>WCCF
There's usually _some_ truth in there, somewhere.

At least link the original article

I'll make sure to do that next time. I noticed it wasn't English so me, being an ignorant English-only person, ignored it.

 

[Mohasus]

I'm fine with transferring them over (I'll just do so over my home network), it's more about actually finding them all on the hard-drive. Is there a particular directory where game saves tend to live?

Depends on the game. Some save on steam folder but doesn't support cloud.
Other common locations:
My Documents/My Games
My Documents/Saved Games
My Documents/<publisher>/<game name>
My Documents/<game name>

 

[takriel]

So I bought a new PC without much deep knowledge about the subject. I hope it's not a total joke. Please tell me if I could have done something better / didn't need a specific component / could have gotten one for a better price etc. I would like to learn for the future! The PC will mostly be used for gaming and emulating.

Processor: Intel Core i7 4790 up to 4 GHz
Processor cooling: Noctua NH-D15
Working memory: Kingston HyperX Genesis DDR3-2133 16GB (4x4GB)
SSD: Adata XPG SX910 256GB
Harddrive: 2x Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Mainboard: Asus Z97-Deluxe WLAN, Bluetooth
Video card: MSI GTX 770 TF OC 2GB
Sound card: Creative Sound Blaster Audigy RX
Power supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold
Casing: Corsair Obsidian 750D

So what do you think? Is this good enough for today's and future games? Is something missing / too much?

 

[Tommy DJ]

What's the consensus on Crossfire these days? Mostly painless or representative of early 21st century PC gaming?

 

[lexi]

What's the consensus on Crossfire these days? Mostly painless or representative of early 21st century PC gaming?

I've been a huge multi GPU skeptic for years and am loving my Crossfire setup. Not half as many issues as I feared.

 

[Knch]

Processor: Intel Core i7 4790 up to 4 GHz
Processor cooling: Noctua NH-D15
Working memory: Kingston HyperX Genesis DDR3-2133 16GB (4x4GB)
SSD: Adata XPG SX910 256GB
Harddrive: 2x Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Mainboard: Asus Z97-Deluxe WLAN, Bluetooth
Video card: MSI GTX 770 TF OC 2GB
Sound card: Creative Sound Blaster Audigy RX
Power supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold
Casing: Corsair Obsidian 750D

So what do you think? Is this good enough for today's and future games? Is something missing / too much?

More than plenty for today's games and the foreseeable future.

Double check if that cooler will fit, because it is massive! (I managed to get the D14 into my 600T, but only barely (and with plenty of cursing))
If you want 16GB, it's better to get two larger DIMMs than 4 smaller ones. (Mostly a personal opinion)
Look for a Samsung 840 EVO or Crucial MX100 SSD, those should be cheaper.
There are better value GPUs available, a 290 for instance.
You can get away with a less powerful PSU, 600W should give you plenty of margin.

 

[Starbuck2907]

I'm building a media center pc. Thoughts on an internal tuner card that will record multiple over the air HD signals at once? And what is the best software to use?

 

[Thraktor]

Depends on the game. Some save on steam folder but doesn't support cloud.
Other common locations:
My Documents/My Games
My Documents/Saved Games
My Documents/<publisher>/<game name>
My Documents/<game name>

Yeah, that's what I'd figured, I was just hoping someone had figured out a neater way of doing it in some way that makes sure you don't miss anything.

What I might do is just copy my entire SteamApps folder over (which means I won't have to redownload games, either), and my My Documents folder, and then just check each game to make sure the saves have transferred across. Thanks.

 

[LilJoka]

oh ok. i might have to look in to it. what kind of cooling do you have?

Only a Hyper 212 Evo in a Node 304 case. Start with the highest multiplier you can set, and set the Vcore with an offset of 0.005v. Do some Prime95 and reduce the Vcore to the minimum possible whilst maintaining stability.

I'm using 1.05v for 102.5mhz bclk and 42 multiplier. Rest is auto and this is with 2133Mhz ram.