KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

So there's really never any reason to go with 2160 RGB on the PS4 Pro then? I've been hearing mixed feedback on this.

Not really. RBG is great for 1080p. But anything higher and you start to run into the limitations of HDMI right now. YUV will provide basically the same color and give you a working settings for HDR to be done in actual 10bit instead of 8 ( which isn't HDR ).

You won't notice anything either unless you look at a side/side comparison , and even then, it's so slight. You will get better color range and more colors out of YUV 10bit than you would with RGB 8bit.
 
They cant because everyone's environment is different when it comes to lighting. Movie theaters are usually in a dim environment, but some people dont watch movies at home in the dark.

I set up 2 different settings, one for watching in the dark, and one for watching with ambient light.

The only slider that's needed is a brightness slider. I've mentioned this before in other 4K/HDR threads. It's the only valid "personal preference" or "changes based on environment" setting in TVs.
 
Sharpness is normally something you put to 0 for TV/Movies. But games are rendered a tad differently. If you have sharpness at 0 on a game, you are actually causing a small blur in the small details of textures. You will see this if you go from 0 and slowly slide it up while looking at something like a wall, or rock. You will start to see some parts of the texture you couldn't. But if you go too high, basically at 20 or above, you will start to get the dark tracing lines or other elements being added to the image that only distort the overall PQ. 17 is just where , on my set, I think that it falls in line.

Warm 2 is really the best to use. It's more natural and what all studios/devs really use to go off of for color. And I agree, Warm 1 and Natural do look pretty, but it isn't true. Don't fall for the lies and the pretty bling bling!!! :P

shakey, sharpness 0 is how the image comes out of the console. When you start turning up sharpness, you're introducing artifacts and destroying anti-aliasing.
 
Games , at least so far, have been made with 8bit color scale. We have a few being updated to 10, but not many yet. And since we don't have precise details as to what "pro supported" means, it's hard to tell if they are actually applying 10bit scales or not, or just doing other tricks for an HDR image.

This reddit post sums it up better I think : https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/3vxlyw/8bit_vs_10bit_in_games/

The discussion basically says you don't need 10-bit textures for 10-bit colors, which makes sense. That is what I suspect is happenening, and regardless of that, the color is being sent over mapped onto the BT.2020 color space, but likely not past any REc 709 saturations aside from color brightness.
 
The discussion basically says you don't need 8-bit textures for 10-bit colors, which makes sense. That is what I suspect is happenening, and regardless of that, the color is being sent over mapped onto the BT.2020 color space, but likely not past any REc 709 saturations aside from color brightness.

That's what I'm thinking as well.

Really looking forward to Zero Horizon in hopes that it's done properly for us.

shakey, sharpness 0 is how the image comes out of the console. When you start turning up sharpness, you're introducing artifacts and destroying anti-aliasing.


Sharpness at 0 is what you want for normal tv/movie viewing. But trust me, do what I said in a game, and you will see some details pop out that you couldn't at 0. This isn't anything like 50 sharpness or something, its barely kicking in. 15/100 isn't anything in the long run, but it does add a bit to the image overall. It's all preference really, but I like for my rocks to show their divots and cracks :P
 
Am I doing something wrong on my TV? Uncharted 4 is not allowing me to enable HDR mode, but the TV says it's in HDR+
You have to enable the HDMI port.

HDR+ isn't actually HDR. I play around with sometimes for a laugh, but it's not how you enable HDR.
 
I just realized I forgot all about in game brightness. Maybe that can fix the dimness a bit.

I hate how they always say to set it a certain way so you can barely see an image etc and that shit is never right. Just give you the slider and be done with it.
 
I've decided I'm taking this TV back to best buy. I really like the picture, but the software is soooo shitty.

Every 2 or 3 episodes the amazon prime app gets unresponsive or gives me connectivity errors and I have to unplug the TV to get it to reset.
Audio out over optical is super buggy. It will work fine for a few episodes, then the next episode of the same show no audio. Then I get to keep swapping around audio out settings until it works again.
The failure to turn on panel backlight with HDR game content. I could live this one since I have to turn on/off game mode anyway.

A lot of these problems I could resolve by buying a new 4k compatible receiver and 4k streaming box, but that adds another $500 to the price tag of this TV.

Think I'm going to wait out 4k for awhile longer, HDR looks great but there's not that much stuff for it and while there's a lot more stuff for 4k, 4k doesn't really make things look that much better. Thinking I might get a mid-tier projector in the meantime, I've always a 100 inch screen.
 
I just realized I forgot all about in game brightness. Maybe that can fix the dimness a bit.

I hate how they always say to set it a certain way so you can barely see an image etc and that shit is never right. Just give you the slider and be done with it.

Yes adjusting ingame brightness is key. In deus ex it actually has a different style of slider. Rather than making something barely visible in black its in white.
 
I've decided I'm taking this TV back to best buy. I really like the picture, but the software is soooo shitty.

Every 2 or 3 episodes the amazon prime app gets unresponsive or gives me connectivity errors and I have to unplug the TV to get it to reset.
Audio out over optical is super buggy. It will work fine for a few episodes, then the next episode of the same show no audio. Then I get to keep swapping around audio out settings until it works again.
The failure to turn on panel backlight with HDR game content. I could live this one since I have to turn on/off game mode anyway.

A lot of these problems I could resolve by buying a new 4k compatible receiver and 4k streaming box, but that adds another $500 to the price tag of this TV.

Think I'm going to wait out 4k for awhile longer, HDR looks great but there's not that much stuff for it and while there's a lot more stuff for 4k, 4k doesn't really make things look that much better. Thinking I might get a mid-tier projector in the meantime, I've always a 100 inch screen.

Why not just buy a 4k streaming box & output all audio from the TV via optical? That's my setup and I've never had a single issue or glitch.

EDIT - To be honest, after reading your problems it sounds like you may have a bugged display. I've literally had none of those issues.
 
I've decided I'm taking this TV back to best buy. I really like the picture, but the software is soooo shitty.

Every 2 or 3 episodes the amazon prime app gets unresponsive or gives me connectivity errors and I have to unplug the TV to get it to reset.
Audio out over optical is super buggy. It will work fine for a few episodes, then the next episode of the same show no audio. Then I get to keep swapping around audio out settings until it works again.
The failure to turn on panel backlight with HDR game content. I could live this one since I have to turn on/off game mode anyway.

A lot of these problems I could resolve by buying a new 4k compatible receiver and 4k streaming box, but that adds another $500 to the price tag of this TV.

Think I'm going to wait out 4k for awhile longer, HDR looks great but there's not that much stuff for it and while there's a lot more stuff for 4k, 4k doesn't really make things look that much better. Thinking I might get a mid-tier projector in the meantime, I've always a 100 inch screen.
'

The "Smart" part of the majority of these tv's are typically lacking. Not something I would return a TV over...if I was happy with the picture.
 
I've decided I'm taking this TV back to best buy. I really like the picture, but the software is soooo shitty.

Every 2 or 3 episodes the amazon prime app gets unresponsive or gives me connectivity errors and I have to unplug the TV to get it to reset.
Audio out over optical is super buggy. It will work fine for a few episodes, then the next episode of the same show no audio. Then I get to keep swapping around audio out settings until it works again.
The failure to turn on panel backlight with HDR game content. I could live this one since I have to turn on/off game mode anyway.

A lot of these problems I could resolve by buying a new 4k compatible receiver and 4k streaming box, but that adds another $500 to the price tag of this TV.

Think I'm going to wait out 4k for awhile longer, HDR looks great but there's not that much stuff for it and while there's a lot more stuff for 4k, 4k doesn't really make things look that much better. Thinking I might get a mid-tier projector in the meantime, I've always a 100 inch screen.

i cant upgrade my receiver right now either so i use optical. i havent checked anything out on amazon, but just watched some episodes on netflix. Haven't had any problems with audio dropping out.
 
i cant upgrade my receiver right now either so i use optical. i havent checked anything out on amazon, but just watched some episodes on netflix. Haven't had any problems with audio dropping out.

Amazon hangs sometimes even on my KS9500. It's the app , not the TV.

Next time you get something freezing, try these 2 methods.

1st) Hold the back <-- button for about 10-20 seconds. This will force close the app if it can.

If that doesn't work

2nd) With the TV ON, Hold the power button on the remote for about 20 seconds. This will cause the TV to turn off, then keep holding the button, it will turn back on, displaying the SUHD logo. This is sort of a soft reset for the One Connect Box. It doesn't erase log in info or any settings, but it causes everything to sort of clear it's cache.

You shouldn't ever have to unplug the TV. Sometimes it can get caught up in a process that just makes it hang though. These 2 methods should correct it though.
 
I would invite those advocating settings like DC, color setting not on Warm 2, and high backlight levels to pay attention to just how bright/warm the picture is next time they go to a movie theater. The picture isn't too dark on these sets. You are just used to having a TV improperly calibrated.
 
I would invite those advocating settings like DC, color setting not on Warm 2, and high backlight levels to pay attention to just how bright/warm the picture is next time they go to a movie theater. The picture isn't too dark on these sets. You are just used to having a TV improperly calibrated.

I will take another look at the warm settings but in tlou and uc4 2 made white look yellow while warm only gave them a slight yellow tinge.

It simply looked wrong on warm2. Can you explain to me why they should yellow because maybe I'm not understanding something

I used a bathroom in the epilogue chapter that really looked better on warm1 and Mt wife completely agreed.


Like is the yellow on the whites a necessary evil for other colors to bet better? What am I missing? Even the ratings guide says drop it down to warm1 if 2 looks off
 
Hmmm. My Black level setting is grayed out and set to auto on my PS4 input. Followed Shakey's settings for everything else and it looks great though.
 
I will take another look at the warm settings but in tlou and uc4 2 made white look yellow while warm only gave them a slight yellow tinge.

It simply looked wrong on warm2. Can you explain to me why they should yellow because maybe I'm not understanding something

I used a bathroom in the epilogue chapter that really looked better on warm1 and Mt wife completely agreed.


Like is the yellow on the whites a necessary evil for other colors to bet better? What am I missing? Even the ratings guide says drop it down to warm1 if 2 looks off

You're probably just not used to watching movies close to 6500 kelvin. Nothing wrong with that. It's your tv, set it up how you want.


But if you want to watch movies with the colors the director intended then you can read this for more info.

https://www.cnet.com/news/what-is-tv-color-temperature-and-why-does-it-matter/

http://www.mastercal.co.nz/ben10.html

https://www.avforums.com/threads/warm-colour-temperature-correct.1738662/
 
You're probably just not used to watching movies close to 6500 kelvin. Nothing wrong with that. It's your tv, set it up how you want.

I'm not talking about movies. Movies I use warm2.

I strictly talking games.

I even just checked out the thread from a month back on color in games and someone commented they use warm1 on ks8000
 
I'm not talking about movies. Movies I use warm2.

I strictly talking games.

I even just checked out the thread from a month back on color in games and someone commented they use warm1 on ks8000

Games are different. Set it up the way you want. The reason why i mentioned movies is because you replied to a post that was talkig about a movie theater.
 
Okay, I see a lot of confusion on here... Let me see if I can help some of yall, with some settings that those of us on AVS Forums have sort of decided seem to be good all around general default settings for HDR Gaming. I'll explain the reasoning behind some of the settings, as to make this as clear as possible....

FIRST - If you have messed with your White Balance or Color Sliders and you didn't have a professional actually do it, reset to default. You can not use other's settings for this, and any changes you've done are probably for the worst. You can only get correct values for these via software and a professional that knows what they are doing so they can measure your ambient light and whats coming off of the TV.

Now, On to the settings ( I have the KS9500, basically the newer model of the KS8000, same settings transfer over ) And this is for Game Mode, Not Movie Mode, So yes, there is a number to Sharpness for a reason that is still beyond my total comprehension. But 0 Sharpness blurs the textures out, and too much causes tracer lines and other distortion effects. There is a happy medium, so look for it between what I listed.

Game Mode: SDR / *HDR settings listed ( You have to manually change the HDR settings until Sammy gives us another save slot under the Game Mode Picture Setting )

Backlight 13 *HDR 20

Brightness 45

Contrast 95 *HDR 100

Sharpness 17 ( anywhere from 10 to 20 is good, but don't go over 20 or you will start to get artifacts and other image distortion )

Color 50

Tint 50/50

Smart LED High

HDMI Black Level Normal ( Put your PS4 RBG Range to Full so you won't crush blacks ) (Auto will not work, and causes signals to get mixed up and blacks to get crushed, must manually set to what I've posted to get accurate blacks.)

Dynamic Contrast Off *HDR Medium

Color Tone Warm 2 ( you can set this to another option if you prefer. You won't be getting more accurate colors though, but this is a preference type of thing as well )

Again, Don't touch White Balance

Gamma 0

Color Space Auto ( Used to have to be Native for HDR to work, but Sammy patched it for Auto to work, so it's best to do Auto for now )


Also, make sure you have your PS4 set to YUV420 so that you can get proper HDR 10bit.

Hiya,
Can you confirm what firmware this was corrected on, just so I know if I have it or not?
 
You're probably just not used to watching movies close to 6500 kelvin. Nothing wrong with that. It's your tv, set it up how you want.


But if you want to watch movies with the colors the director intended then you can read this for more info.

https://www.cnet.com/news/what-is-tv-color-temperature-and-why-does-it-matter/

http://www.mastercal.co.nz/ben10.html

https://www.avforums.com/threads/warm-colour-temperature-correct.1738662/

Yup the first link center image is how It looks on warm1. Warm2 looks like the top image
 
I will take another look at the warm settings but in tlou and uc4 2 made white look yellow while warm only gave them a slight yellow tinge.

It simply looked wrong on warm2. Can you explain to me why they should yellow because maybe I'm not understanding something

I used a bathroom in the epilogue chapter that really looked better on warm1 and Mt wife completely agreed.


Like is the yellow on the whites a necessary evil for other colors to bet better? What am I missing? Even the ratings guide says drop it down to warm1 if 2 looks off

What you are seeing isn't yellow its how whites look in the real world. Snow, for example, has a yellow tint to it not a white one. White painted rooms err on the yellow side, not blue. The white you may prefer isn't real white. Its white with blue. This is probably because you have gotten used to this on TVs not using Warm2. Its not inaccurate its just your definition of accuracy has been warped.

Cooler temps also look brighter and have more vivid (but saturated and inaccurate) color on display models in very well lit store showrooms. Warm 2 is the closet to the industry standard for color temperature. Content creators use this standard when deciding how things are going to look. Setting to Warm2 is about getting the most realistic image and the image directors/developers intended the viewer to see.

Ultimately do whatever feels best. Its your eyes and your TV. Warm2 vs Warm1 isn't as big of a deal as things like DC, super high brightness that blasts out white levels and gives poor black levels, sharpness that literally adds white lines around everything or interpolation settings that are adding artificial frames to content. If you aren't sure I'd recommend giving Warm2 a real shot. Like use it for a month and see if your perceptions change.
 
At work now. I'm going to do that tmrw.

I'll keep an open mind on warm2 and test it some more when I get home.

I used to be a Cool guy, but when I realized how off it was, I have always set my TVS since to Warm2. You will get used to it after a day or so.


BTW, are you Haines from D1P?
 
I used to be a Cool guy, but when I realized how off it was, I have always set my TVS since to Warm2. You will get used to it after a day or so.


BTW, are you Haines from D1P?

Yeah. I quit going there years ago and jumped here. Still active there? It was a crazy drama fest when I left. People breaking up and dating everyone felt like. I don't even know lol.

Don't be afraid if the warm1 gaming side dreadful. I see you liking it too lol. Jk
 
Okay, I see a lot of confusion on here... Let me see if I can help some of yall, with some settings that those of us on AVS Forums have sort of decided seem to be good all around general default settings for HDR Gaming.
[....]

Ah, bless you. Thank you, shakey.

See, this is what I come to GAF for -- people who know their stuff and can just tell me what to do.

Thanks again. Much appreciated.
 
So how's the viewing angles on the KS8000? I'm really tempted to get the 55" but a video I saw of the viewing angle is kind of scaring me off despite the rave reviews regarding everything else.
 
Dynamic Contrast should absolutely be turned off regardless of HDR or not. Play something like the Last of Us or Uncharted with HDR and get outside somewhere. Look at the sky and crank the Dynamic Contrast. You'll see clouds disappear and an oversaturated picture. You're losing detail and eliminating the entire point of HDR.

Don't be monsters.

As for color and black level, auto is fine for both. Setting your PS4 to Limited or Full will have no effect as long as auto is selected. Limited is the proper setting for even modern TVs while Full should be used for PC monitors.
 
Hi guys i got the tv but my better half has not experienced it, I want justify the price that I payed for this tv, does anyone know show or demo I can show her to wow her, especially in 4k hdr.

Thanks.
 
Dynamic Contrast should absolutely be turned off regardless of HDR or not. Play something like the Last of Us or Uncharted with HDR and get outside somewhere. Look at the sky and crank the Dynamic Contrast. You'll see clouds disappear and an oversaturated picture. You're losing detail and eliminating the entire point of HDR.

Don't be monsters.

As for color and black level, auto is fine for both. Setting your PS4 to Limited or Full will have no effect as long as auto is selected. Limited is the proper setting for even modern TVs while Full should be used for PC monitors.

After trying every setting in the book extensively I endorse this post.

What's your thoughts on color? Warm1 or 2?
 
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