Sony X800D well - reviewed, 4k+HDR TV with low input lag

Lets discuss settings. I tried the rtings settings but they look so bland compared to the "standard" mode. Is it just because I am used to the exegerated colors? I would prefer to deactivate all picturr processing options but especially the "color brilliance" setting really makes the colors pop out more.

I recommend RTING's settings. (no need to mess with advanced color calibrations like they do) If you want more pop, I recommend increasing brightness before you start increasing things like color, sharpness, black levels and all that nonsense. I have my brightness at 25 for example. Furthermore, you can set the color temperature to neutral if you want 'cooler' colors.

The worst offender of this TV's standard picture setting is that it's sharpness and color defaults at 60. When 50 is the appropriate setting. You do not want an overly sharp TV when it comes to video games, this only amplifies aliasing issues that games already tend to suffer from.
 
Play around with them a bit. rtings does note that panels will vary and what the lighting conditions of the room are will also influence things.


Both have similar picture quality. The KS8000 has better input lag and local dimming IIRC which was why I was looking at it initially. I ultimately decided on the X800D because it was cheaper.

The X800D also has faster average pixel response times than the KS8000.
 
I bought this TV (43") Friday. I'm coming from the Samsung KU6300 43" (that I just bought a few months ago) and this TV blows that one out of the water. The Triluminous display really makes a difference. This TV is an excellent value IMO.
 
I bought this TV (43") Friday. I'm coming from the Samsung KU6300 43" (that I just bought a few months ago) and this TV blows that one out of the water. The Triluminous display really makes a difference. This TV is an excellent value IMO.

I don't even know what Triluminous is but glad you like it! What are you doing with your KU6300 if I may ask? Going into another room?
 
I don't even know what Triluminous is but glad you like it! What are you doing with your KU6300 if I may ask? Going into another room?

I'm giving it to my parents. They're still using the 720p 32" Samsung (I bought in 2007) I gave them when I upgraded to a Samsung 1080p, but It's now developed a black spot in the top right corner of the screen. It's still watchable, but I figured they could use a new set so they don't have to deal with that.

This will be a massive upgrade for them, lol.

I can definitely tell a difference between the KU6300 and X800D. The Triluminos makes the colors pop much more. Here's a picture comparison slider from Sony's website about with Triluminos and without Triluminos: http://www.sony.com/electronics/4k-hd-triluminos-display-color-tvs

I can confirm that it isn't just some marketing bs, it's real.
 
Sony has always had best in class image processing, colors and motion etc. However this years 2017 Samsung Q7F QLED have achieved almost 99% or more in terms of color and wcg which bests even the OLED. Will be interesting to see the new Sony models.
 
So Ive tried out my ps4 pro and Sky sports on my new 55" Sony

Its looks great. But not knock your socks off great.

There was a football match on yesterday on SKY and I switched between std HD and Ultra numerous times and Im not sure there was much difference

On the Pro I gave Uncharted 4 a shot with HDR on. Again it looks great, but not sure I can tell a significant difference between HD and 4K

Oh well
 
So Ive tried out my ps4 pro and Sky sports on my new 55" Sony

Its looks great. But not knock your socks off great.

There was a football match on yesterday on SKY and I switched between std HD and Ultra numerous times and Im not sure there was much difference

On the Pro I gave Uncharted 4 a shot with HDR on. Again it looks great, but not sure I can tell a significant difference between HD and 4K

Oh well

Well, UC4 is only in 1440p. Give something like this a shot: http://demo-uhd3d.com/fiche.php?cat=uhd&id=145 Make sure to play it through your TV with a USB stick or by casting it to it.
 
So I ordered the silver version of this TV from Simply Electrical and they're being an arse over delivery dates, they said 7 days but now they're saying it will be a few weeks

So the black version is in stock so I said fuck it, I'll take that one, but they're now saying that version has a better screen and the screen is made by Sony whereas the silver one is outsourced and inferior (should have said I'm only talking about the 49 inch versions)

The black is a tenner more expensive and so they're trying to get me to pay more for the black, whereas I wanted to pay the same price as the silver

Are they talking out of their arse? I'm tempted to just cancel my order altogether
 
UK / EU GAF: is this the TV this thread is about:

https://www.johnlewis.com/sony-brav...gclid=CN7ev7-v1NICFQ0UGwodkUYMWA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Seems like the above TV has a power adaptor? I'm not keen on one of those.

Also found a 55" TV:

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/tv-and...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CN_w3Mmv1NICFZQR0wodDfwGYw

Though I don't think it's the same model, doesn't seem to include a power adaptor, just the cable. Any thoughts on this one? Keen to get a 55".
The 55" in your 2nd link is the tv I got last week. I can confirm that it also has a power adapter

It's not really a concern for me though
 
UK / EU GAF: is this the TV this thread is about:

https://www.johnlewis.com/sony-brav...gclid=CN7ev7-v1NICFQ0UGwodkUYMWA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Seems like the above TV has a power adaptor? I'm not keen on one of those.

Also found a 55" TV:

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/tv-and...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CN_w3Mmv1NICFZQR0wodDfwGYw

Though I don't think it's the same model, doesn't seem to include a power adaptor, just the cable. Any thoughts on this one? Keen to get a 55".

Yeah the 43" version has no adaptor, the 49" version has a power adaptor.
 
The 55" in your 2nd link is the tv I got last week. I can confirm that it also has a power adapter

It's not really a concern for me though

Yeah the 43" version has no adaptor, the 49" version has a power adaptor.
Thanks guys. Shame about the power adapter. Are both of these that I linked the model that this thread is referring to?

EDIT: any chance you can take a picture of the power adapter?
 
So I ordered the silver version of this TV from Simply Electrical and they're being an arse over delivery dates, they said 7 days but now they're saying it will be a few weeks

So the black version is in stock so I said fuck it, I'll take that one, but they're now saying that version has a better screen and the screen is made by Sony whereas the silver one is outsourced and inferior (should have said I'm only talking about the 49 inch versions)

The black is a tenner more expensive and so they're trying to get me to pay more for the black, whereas I wanted to pay the same price as the silver

Are they talking out of their arse? I'm tempted to just cancel my order altogether

Yep talking out their arse, the panels in the 49s are the same, only different panel is in a 43.
 
Have contacted PC World/Currys via Twitter but doubt much will be done about it!

oGMyGiK.jpg


Noticed it last night and couldn't stop seeing it in dark scenes
 
anyone good some good settings for using a playstation 2 on this tv?
(connected via component/scart rgb)

it defaults to some god awful settings and seems to switch on every lag inducing thing on the tv.
i tried turning them all off again, but then it looked like ass. :/
 
I had a 3rd party technician come to my house the other day, sent by Sony, to repair my TV because I had a problem with the remote. He initially thought it was the IR receiver and when replacing that didn't work, he replaced the entire board inside the TV.

In the process he obviously reset everything on the TV. Now I'm not sure how much of the picture is determined by the board, but ever since he did this, the picture on the TV when using Expert1 or 2 is ridiculously yellow. Setting it to Warm makes it look a bit better, but still not great. Before the board was replaced, my picture was perfect.

I'll be giving Sony a call tomorrow to complain about this, but is there anything I could try in the meantime? Is this a common or normal thing? It really looks terrible and is hugely distracting for me.
 
I had a 3rd party technician come to my house the other day, sent by Sony, to repair my TV because I had a problem with the remote. He initially thought it was the IR receiver and when replacing that didn't work, he replaced the entire board inside the TV.

In the process he obviously reset everything on the TV. Now I'm not sure how much of the picture is determined by the board, but ever since he did this, the picture on the TV when using Expert1 or 2 is ridiculously yellow. Setting it to Warm makes it look a bit better, but still not great. Before the board was replaced, my picture was perfect.

I'll be giving Sony a call tomorrow to complain about this, but is there anything I could try in the meantime? Is this a common or normal thing? It really looks terrible and is hugely distracting for me.

without having measured data to compare its really difficult to suggest anything.
 
I had a 3rd party technician come to my house the other day, sent by Sony, to repair my TV because I had a problem with the remote. He initially thought it was the IR receiver and when replacing that didn't work, he replaced the entire board inside the TV.

In the process he obviously reset everything on the TV. Now I'm not sure how much of the picture is determined by the board, but ever since he did this, the picture on the TV when using Expert1 or 2 is ridiculously yellow. Setting it to Warm makes it look a bit better, but still not great. Before the board was replaced, my picture was perfect.

I'll be giving Sony a call tomorrow to complain about this, but is there anything I could try in the meantime? Is this a common or normal thing? It really looks terrible and is hugely distracting for me.

try to set all the gamma, r-offset etc, white point values back to their default settings. which i believe are 0 by default (no additions or subtractions)

use the rtings settings page (bottom of the list of pictures) as a guide to where things are in settings....

http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x800d/settings
 
try to set all the gamma, r-offset etc, white point values back to their default settings. which i believe are 0 by default (no additions or subtractions)

use the rtings settings page (bottom of the list of pictures) as a guide to where things are in settings....

http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x800d/settings

That's exactly what I did, heh. I was using the Rtings settings before the "repair" and set everything back to that. The only thing I have different is the brightness. Before it just gave me a perfect picture. Now it looks horrendous.
 
That's exactly what I did, heh. I was using the Rtings settings before the "repair" and set everything back to that. The only thing I have different is the brightness. Before it just gave me a perfect picture. Now it looks horrendous.

sounds like the guy buggered up more than he fixed tbh

there shouldnt be a difference at all if all he did was change a circuit board.
the panel itself is where differences come when calibrating stuff
 
I am talking to a buddy of mine about NieR, and he is telling me that 4King that game with a GTX1080 is quite demanding on ultra settings. But 1440p is a good option. I told him that im pretty sure my TV locks my fps to 30fps every time i try to use this resolution. I looked at the manual online for confirmation, but it didn't really mention anything since its probably not a standard resolution.

Can anyone confirm this? or am i doing something wrong on my settings?

 
What exactly is the Motionflow setting while in Game Mode? It allows you to customize it. That's unusual cause on Samsung TV's it disables those Motionflow type settings in Game Mode.
 
I'm new to upscaling.
Would 1080p be a better option for pc games than 1440p when you can't run 4k on this tv?
Because of 1:4 nearest neighbor upscaling (i'm just throwing words) and 1440p isn't exactly half of 3840x2160 etc?
 
What exactly is the Motionflow setting while in Game Mode? It allows you to customize it. That's unusual cause on Samsung TV's it disables those Motionflow type settings in Game Mode.

it interpolates frames to give a smoother image

it adds input lag and also flicker.
it also really doesnt do anything on a 60hz native screen. its more for viewing movies at 24hz or for 120hz screens watching 60hz content.

i would avoid it. tv is absolutely fine without it.
 
I'm new to upscaling.
Would 1080p be a better option for pc games than 1440p when you can't run 4k on this tv?
Because of 1:4 nearest neighbor upscaling (i'm just throwing words) and 1440p isn't exactly half of 3840x2160 etc?

someone correct me if i am wrong. But my TV, when i set to 1440p will lock the fps to 30fps. So i never go to 1440p, i rather do ultra 1080p, than compromise and lowere quality at a native 4k. Tho 4k on that display with HDR looks glorious.

Thats my thought. Do you get the same cap on fps when you set it to 1440p? or do you have a good workaround? i wouldn't mind doing 1440p if i didn't have the cap.
 
Unrelated to the screen quality, but does anyone else have problems casting to this TV? On YouTube my iPhone will try to connect for about 10 seconds then give up (around 40% of the time). I can temporarily fix this by disabling/enabling the Google Cast app in the TV settings, but the problem returns after I put it into sleep mode.

Netflix casting straight up never works. The app on my phone connects, which forces me to profile selection on the TV. After selecting a profile the connection to the phone cuts. This cycle restarts if I reconnect.

I've tried connecting the TV to my router through both Wi-Fi and ethernet, but neither helps. I don't have these problems on my Vizio smart TV.
 
someone correct me if i am wrong. But my TV, when i set to 1440p will lock the fps to 30fps. So i never go to 1440p, i rather do ultra 1080p, than compromise and lowere quality at a native 4k. Tho 4k on that display with HDR looks glorious.

Thats my thought. Do you get the same cap on fps when you set it to 1440p? or do you have a good workaround? i wouldn't mind doing 1440p if i didn't have the cap.

I'm trying out some 1440p right now and it works fine at 60hz. The best compromise so far is running 4k and 80% render scaling in games that allow it. 1080p so far looks a lot softer and blurrier than 1440p with TV set to graphics mode and driver set to display and no scaling. So, 1440p upscaling to 4k on this TV looks good so far.
 
I'm trying out some 1440p right now and it works fine at 60hz. The best compromise so far is running 4k and 80% render scaling in games that allow it. 1080p so far looks a lot softer and blurrier than 1440p with TV set to graphics mode and driver set to display and no scaling. So, 1440p upscaling to 4k on this TV looks good so far.

Really? what game are you running? Last game i tried was Dishonored 2. 1440p would lock my fps to 30fps for some reason. am i doing something wrong?
 
Really? what game are you running? Last game i tried was Dishonored 2. 1440p would lock my fps to 30fps for some reason. am i doing something wrong?

Make sure you are using a short length 18gbps HDMI cable. I just tried Deus ex mankind divided, doom and shadow warrior 2.
 
On the issue of HDMI cable lengths; I'm currently thinking about buying a 25 feet HDMI 2.0 cable which is advertised as supporting 18 gbps, and its for connecting my PC to my TV.

Will it work? I've read some comments saying that the longer the cable, the less likely that 4k HDR at 4:4:4 will work. How much of this is true?

I'm thinking of getting this one. I'm not sure if it will work as advertised. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCS0IXR/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
On the issue of HDMI cable lengths; I'm currently thinking about buying a 25 feet HDMI 2.0 cable which is advertised as supporting 18 gbps, and its for connecting my PC to my TV.

Will it work? I've read some comments saying that the longer the cable, the less likely that 4k HDR at 4:4:4 will work. How much of this is true?

I'm thinking of getting this one. I'm not sure if it will work as advertised. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCS0IXR/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I've read on avsforum that they've tested this one to work at full bandwidth https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKGTK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Apart from that active cables might work, but random cables can cut their bandwidth in half past 10 feet.
 
sounds like the guy buggered up more than he fixed tbh

there shouldnt be a difference at all if all he did was change a circuit board.
the panel itself is where differences come when calibrating stuff

Yeah, that's what I figured. Given that the problem only required a new remote, I'm a bit pissed that he opened it up and swapped out the board for something that was simple to check. Oh well, back to not using the thing until they finally get another engineer or whatever out here to fix it.
 
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