"I Need a New PC!" 2022. The GPU drought continues...

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dorkimoe said:
2 sticks works. Im
Just gonna order 2x16 sticks and sell these. Didn't know it would ever be a problem to use 4 sticks all the same brand
Click to expand...
You would probably be able to get them all running but it may take a bit of effort to read and configure if you're unsure what to do.
Time vs money really.

I suppose there is an outside chance that one of your sticks is faulty. Maybe worth testing with the removed sticks @ XMP just in case.

GymWolf said:
How many chance that games are gonna need more than 16gb of system ram in 5 years from now?

Like does it make sense to buy 32gb if i close everything else when i play and i don't work on pc?
Click to expand...
16GB is likely okay, but requirements will creep over those 5 years. Were it DDR4 I'd go 32GB. You could just get some higher capacity DDR5 down the line if it became a problem? Cheaper by then too.
 
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PhoenixTank said:
You would probably be able to get them all running but it may take a bit of effort to read and configure if you're unsure what to do.
Time vs money really.

I suppose there is an outside chance that one of your sticks is faulty. Maybe worth testing with the removed sticks @ XMP just in case.


16GB is likely okay, but requirements will creep over those 5 years. Were it DDR4 I'd go 32GB. You could just get some higher capacity DDR5 down the line if it became a problem? Cheaper by then too.
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I already bought a ddr5 mobo so ddr4 is not a option anymore.

The question is 16 vs 32.
 
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Anybody got good recommendations for a laptop that can play these games at max settings? Castlevania Lords of shadow 1&2 Batman Arkham Origins RE1&RE0 RE4 HD project.
 
GymWolf said:
I already bought a ddr5 mobo so ddr4 is not a option anymore.

The question is 16 vs 32.
Click to expand...
No, of course - I meant to say that I suspected 2x8GB would be cheaper per GB than 2x16GB with DDR5 this early on... as the opposite seems to be the case on DDR4. However, having a look through a few retailers... there really don't seem to be many 2x8GB DDR5 kits out there, at least where I'm looking. You can probably tell I haven't built a DDR5 system just yet!
1x16GB would be a mistake (won't run as dual channel).
Which 2x8GB kit were you looking at?

This might force the choice for you tbh.
 
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PhoenixTank said:
No, of course - I meant to say that I suspected 2x8GB would be cheaper per GB than 2x16GB with DDR5 this early on... as the opposite seems to be the case on DDR4. However, having a look through a few retailers... there really don't seem to be many 2x8GB DDR5 kits out there, at least where I'm looking. You can probably tell I haven't built a DDR5 system just yet!
1x16GB would be a mistake (won't run as dual channel).
Which 2x8GB kit were you looking at?

This might force the choice for you tbh.
Click to expand...
Like you said, there is no much choice of 2x8 sticks with ddr5, at least on amazon.

The majority are all 16x2.

The one i found at a relatively good price was kingston fury 6000cl 40, 1 8gb stick is 80 euros, so if i buy 2 (2 separated 8gb sticks) is 160 euros.

But 32gb 5600 cl36 are just 40 euros more...

The thing is, 32 could very be overkill just for gaming, even in 5 years from now.
 
Man why are motherboards suddenly 200 euro?! Can someone please just make a basic bitch MB for people who don't overclock and don't need gigabyte WiFi.
 
GymWolf said:
Like you said, there is no much choice of 2x8 sticks with ddr5, at least on amazon.

The majority are all 16x2.

The one i found at a relatively good price was kingston fury 6000cl 40, 1 8gb stick is 80 euros, so if i buy 2 (2 separated 8gb sticks) is 160 euros.

But 32gb 5600 cl36 are just 40 euros more...

The thing is, 32 could very be overkill just for gaming, even in 5 years from now.
Click to expand...
For €40 more, a mere 25%, take the 32GB kit. Bandwidth is a little lower but absolute latency even improves a little versus 6000CL40.

8GB DDR5 modules also apparently use four chips at 16 bit width per rank rather than 8 chips at 8 bit width per rank, which is detrimental to performance on the 8GB sticks.
Mixing two sticks with the same manufacturer & model can be fine, but if they swap vendors between batches you can have problems and no real recourse to return compared with buying a kit of two.

Potential extra RAM isn't going to go to waste. If you're not shutting down the PC every time you're done with a session, Windows will load in frequently used files to your RAM, including game files, which makes for faster loads. Persists through sleep etc.
Running 64GB here which is definitely overkill for games.
 
Any recommended tweaks to this build? I get the PSU is overkill, it was just $10 more than a 1K so whatever.

  • CAS: CyberPowerPC HYTE Y60 Dual Chamber Mid-Tower Gaming Case w/ Panoramic View Tempered Glass + 2x120mm Fans (White)
  • CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i9-13900K 8P/16 + 16E 3.00GHz [Turbo 5.7GHz] 36MB Cache LGA1700
  • FAN: CyberPowerPC DEEPCOOL Castle 360EX ARGB 360mm AIO Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate [+20] (3 x Standard 120MM Fans)
  • HDD: 2TB WD BLACK SN850X (PCIe Gen4) NVMe M.2 SSD - Seq R/W: Up to 7300/6600 MB/s, Rnd R/W up to 1200/1100k [+39] (Single Drive)
  • MEMORY: 32GB (16GBx2) DDR5/6000MHz Dual Channel Memory (Team T-Delta RGB)
  • MOTHERBOARD: ASUS PRIME Z790-P WIFI D5 DDR5 ATX w/ Wi-Fi, 2.5GbT LAN, (4)PCIe x16,(1)PCIe x1, (3)M.2, (4)SATA [+6]
  • OS: Windows 11 Home
  • POWERSUPPLY: 1300Watts - High Power 1300W 80+ GOLD Full Modular w/ PCIE 12+4Pins Connector for PCIe 5.0 graphics cards [+10]
  • VIDEO: ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX™ 4080 Edition Gaming 16GB GDDR6X Video Card (Ada Lovelace) [VR Ready] [+20] (Single Card)
 
I don't see any recommendations necessary 😂

Go big with the PSU which you have 👍🏻

How much if you don't mind sharing?
 
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PhoenixTank said:
4080 is getting panned for being horrendous value, especially compared to a 4090 if that matters to you.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I've been holding out for a 4070, but my son just stole my gaming PC.

I don't like tinkering, and getting every component strong in 1-shot is ideal. A 4080 already feels like too much for me, considered dropping to a 3080, but a few hundred saved wasn't enough to convince me to skip the latest series.

Hopefully it'll keep me happy for 5 years like the 1070 it's replacing. Pairing it with an LG 65" C2, first time gaming above 1080p.
 
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sh4mike said:
Yeah, I've been holding out for a 4070, but my son just stole my gaming PC.

I don't like tinkering, so getting every component strong in 1-shot is ideal. Hopefully it'll keep me happy for 5 years like the 1070 it's replacing. Pairing it with an LG 65" C2, first time gaming above 1080p.
Click to expand...
More of a nudge up to a 4090 for 4K if you can stomach the extra, and I can barely believe I'm advocating for that. Cost per frame is pretty much the same at 4K for 4080 and 4090, and you get more VRAM too.
I'd assume a builder website like CPPC would be more likely to have stock than the market at large, but understand if not an option for whatever reason 👍

In fact, if it were it me and there was a $ limit... dropping down to a 13700K/KF looks like it'd get you most of the way to a 4090 in savings. I might be on the wrong base build on their site, though.
 
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PhoenixTank said:
More of a nudge up to a 4090 for 4K if you can stomach the extra, and I can barely believe I'm advocating for that. Cost per frame is pretty much the same at 4K for 4080 and 4090, and you get more VRAM too.
I'd assume a builder website like CPPC would be more likely to have stock than the market at large, but understand if not an option for whatever reason 👍
Click to expand...
If I spent $1500 on a card I'd have to kick my own ass.
 
Apols. My brain didn't see the 8/9 in the cards when I was looking through, thought was 4090. But yeah basically everything PhoenixTank said. Sorry for my shit advice 🙁
 
Nitty_Grimes said:
Apols. My brain didn't see the 8/9 in the cards when I was looking through, thought was 4090. But yeah basically everything PhoenixTank said. Sorry for my shit advice 🙁
Click to expand...
I get what you guys are saying, and did a bit more investigation. I'm seeing a $582 upcharge to swap in a 4090 instead of the 4080 in my config.

My impression is that the 4080 value gap is sufficiently understood by the market at this point, and discounts on the 4080 are already happening.

Can I assume the upgrade recommendation disappears at $582?
 
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I'm looking to upgrade my display from a 24' 1080p/60 1ms to a 28' 4K/60 1ms.

I have a guy who's selling his BenQ EL2870U for 140€, it's from February 2021, in perfect shape, with the box and still under warranty for 1 year. Seems like a good price, I was planning on getting an ASUS TUF VG289Q1A which has better image quality apparently because it's an IPS but at 280€, I might just as well go with the BenQ at half the price.

What do you think PCGAF?
 
This is a dumb question , but I just picked up a new gaming laptop and am adding a second ssd but it will not arrive for a couple of weeks.
Is it better to install the second drive before booting it up the first time and doing set up, or does it not matter either way?
 
Ol'Scratch said:
This is a dumb question , but I just picked up a new gaming laptop and am adding a second ssd but it will not arrive for a couple of weeks.
Is it better to install the second drive before booting it up the first time and doing set up, or does it not matter either way?
Click to expand...
Be careful asking that around here you might get laughed at like I did lol!
 
PhoenixTank said:
More of a nudge up to a 4090 for 4K if you can stomach the extra, and I can barely believe I'm advocating for that. Cost per frame is pretty much the same at 4K for 4080 and 4090, and you get more VRAM too.
I'd assume a builder website like CPPC would be more likely to have stock than the market at large, but understand if not an option for whatever reason 👍

In fact, if it were it me and there was a $ limit... dropping down to a 13700K/KF looks like it'd get you most of the way to a 4090 in savings. I might be on the wrong base build on their site, though.
Click to expand...
What is CPPC? I tried to google and found nothing that relates to buying a GPU. Thanks!
 
PhoenixTank said:
CyberPowerPC. Company that offers somewhat customisable PCs that sh4mike was/is using.
Sorry, entirely likely that nobody abbreviates them to that.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I thought someone implied they sell GPU's, but i found nothing on the site. But it did make me wonder if I should of just got a pre-built PC. Trying to ge a 4090 has been really hard and I will have the last parts minus the GPU on Monday.
 
Xyphie said:
I'd upgrade the CPU+Motherboard but keep the RAM.

So your options would be:

Ryzen 5 5600 ($150) + B550 motherboard (~$150) should land around $300 in total. If you want to go more premium go for 5800X3D ($330).

Intel 12600K(F), 13600K(F) + Z690 DDR4 motherboard. ~$450-550 total depending on processor and motherboard choice.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Went with the i5 13600KF + Z690 motherboard (ASUS TUF gaming)
 
I have an i7 9700k with an RTX 3080 and looking possibly to upgrade my mobo and CPU. Is my CPU a bottleneck at this point? What should I upgrade to be snappy for the next 5 years? I can buy whatever. I have no strict budget.
 
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Will a Corsair RM750 (2019) suffice for a Ryzen 5800X3D + ASUS TUF Gaming RX 6800 XT OC and a few 140mm fans, M.2 (x2), etc

I assume this is okay but just double checking.
 
VN1X said:
Will a Corsair RM750 (2019) suffice for a Ryzen 5800X3D + ASUS TUF Gaming RX 6800 XT OC and a few 140mm fans, M.2 (x2), etc

I assume this is okay but just double checking.
Click to expand...
I have exact setup, you'll be more than fine. (Well, not TUF gaming card, but you'll be good)
 
Anyone with a Corsair H150i All in One CPU Cooler and a 13900k give feedback on how it is holding up with a decent overclock?

The last 3 rigs I build have been full on custom water cooled, but looking to save some money this time and looking at an AIO for the CPU. But don't have much experience with AIO coolers.
 
8CQPZDb.jpg

Upgrade Time!
 
I've currently got an Asus Maximus XII Hero: https://rog.asus.com/us/motherboards/rog-maximus/rog-maximus-xii-hero-wi-fi-model/

"WiFi 6 (AX201)
Onboard WiFi 6 (802.11ax) supports ultrafast wireless-networking speeds, improved capacity and better performance in dense WiFi environments, providing exceptional online gaming experiences. *

Pair your motherboard with ASUS WiFi 6 routers to fully experience the networking potential of WiFi 6. Find out more about ASUS WiFi 6 solutions: https://www.asus.com/wifi6/"

The built-in wifi speeds are fine but the stability when gaming online or watching videos isn't the best. Would an add in card like this:

Amazon.com: TP-Link WiFi 6E AXE5400 PCIe WiFi Card (Archer TXE75E), Tri Band Wireless Adapter with Bluetooth 5.3, WPA3, MU-MIMO, OFDMA, Heat Sink, Low-Profile Bracket, Supports Windows 10, 11 (64bit) : Electronics

Buy TP-Link WiFi 6E AXE5400 PCIe WiFi Card (Archer TXE75E), Tri Band Wireless Adapter with Bluetooth 5.3, WPA3, MU-MIMO, OFDMA, Heat Sink, Low-Profile Bracket, Supports Windows 10, 11 (64bit): Network Cards - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

give better stability when gaming or watching YouTube/Twitch? Or is wifi just crap in general? I can't really use ethernet at the moment.
 
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Celcius said:
I've currently got an Asus Maximus XII Hero: https://rog.asus.com/us/motherboards/rog-maximus/rog-maximus-xii-hero-wi-fi-model/

"WiFi 6 (AX201)
Onboard WiFi 6 (802.11ax) supports ultrafast wireless-networking speeds, improved capacity and better performance in dense WiFi environments, providing exceptional online gaming experiences. *

Pair your motherboard with ASUS WiFi 6 routers to fully experience the networking potential of WiFi 6. Find out more about ASUS WiFi 6 solutions: https://www.asus.com/wifi6/"

The built-in wifi speeds are fine but the stability when gaming online or watching videos isn't the best. Would an add in card like this:

Amazon.com: TP-Link WiFi 6E AXE5400 PCIe WiFi Card (Archer TXE75E), Tri Band Wireless Adapter with Bluetooth 5.3, WPA3, MU-MIMO, OFDMA, Heat Sink, Low-Profile Bracket, Supports Windows 10, 11 (64bit) : Electronics

Buy TP-Link WiFi 6E AXE5400 PCIe WiFi Card (Archer TXE75E), Tri Band Wireless Adapter with Bluetooth 5.3, WPA3, MU-MIMO, OFDMA, Heat Sink, Low-Profile Bracket, Supports Windows 10, 11 (64bit): Network Cards - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

give better stability when gaming or watching YouTube/Twitch? Or is wifi just crap in general? I can't really use ethernet at the moment.
Click to expand...
It'll likely do almost nothing without a router that supports Wifi 6E and apparently running Windows 11 on your PC. Getting on 6GHz with 6e might be useful if your 5Ghz range is already crowded but things like this are a nightmare to diagnose from a distance.
Wifi is kinda eh in most cases and this meme is accurate:
nbxEu2d.png


Are powerline network adapters out of the question?
You'd want to be sure it isn't just flaky internet access rather than Wifi too.
 
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PhoenixTank said:
It'll likely do almost nothing without a router that supports Wifi 6E and apparently running Windows 11 on your PC. Getting on 6GHz with 6e might be useful if your 5Ghz range is already crowded but things like this are a nightmare to diagnose from a distance.
Wifi is kinda eh in most cases and this meme is accurate:
nbxEu2d.png


Are powerline network adapters out of the question?
You'd want to be sure it isn't just flaky internet access rather than Wifi too.
Click to expand...
I can't really use powerline adapters at the moment but it's doing this weird thing where if I'm watching Twitch or Youtube then after a while the network stops sending/receiving and then it just stops playing, but then if I open another tab and start doing stuff or start speedtest then network traffic starts back up and the video starts playing again. Almost like it thinks the PC is idle and then stops traffic or something? Any ideas on how to stop this?
 
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Celcius said:
I can't really use powerline adapters at the moment but it's doing this weird thing where if I'm watching Twitch or Youtube then after a while the network stops sending/receiving and then it just stops playing, but then if I open another tab and start doing stuff or start speedtest then network traffic starts back up and the video starts playing again. Almost like it thinks the PC is idle and then stops traffic or something? Any ideas on how to stop this?
Click to expand...
Dodgy Wifi drivers perhaps - install latest from Intel? Maybe a power saving setting for the Wifi - can be checked via the Windows power plan (advanced settings in the old style control panel).
I'd also point suspicion at the router but I can really only guess.
 
My 5-year-old laptop died this week, so I was in a bind and had to make a quick purchase. Ended up going with this:

Amazon.com: Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 Laptop Computer, 15.6" FHD Display 120Hz, AMD Ryzen 5 5600H, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD Storage, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050Ti, Windows 11 Home, TGC Accessories : Electronics

Shop Amazon for Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 Laptop Computer, 15.6" FHD Display 120Hz, AMD Ryzen 5 5600H, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD Storage, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050Ti, Windows 11 Home, TGC Accessories and find millions of items, delivered faster than ever.
www.amazon.com

I only play WoW and older PC games, so I was looking for a sub-$1000 purchase. Lenovo has been a quality brand for me in the past (the laptop that died was a Dell, last time I ever buy their products). Hopefully I made a decent choice - it arrives on Sunday.
 
Is a 6900xt good for 4k60 if i don't care about rtx and i can turn down some settings a notch or 2 like shadows, AA, occlusions, reflections etc.

Like, am i decently set for at least 3 years?

Is ASrock a good brand for amd gpu? There is a 6900xt asrock phantom gaming for 790 euros...

Take into consideration that the lowest priced third party 3090 is like 1200-1300++ euros, (around 1000+ for founders), TI is around 1700 lmao.

What are the games\engines that usually suffer with an amd gpu? I know they have better perf with ubisoft trash and that is not encourging...

I'm worried about ue5 games since they use lumen that is a form of rtx.
 
I'm getting ready to update my setup and I'm just going to build a new PC except for the GPU.

I decided to go for Raptor Lake with DDR5 (not sure if 16gb or 32 gb) together with my current 3070 RTX. I'll be connecting 2 or 3 7200 HDDs, 3 M.2 drives (2 of them NVME), about 4 system 120 mm fans together with air cooling (probably a Hyper 212 with 2 fans).

I'm getting a new PSU as the one I'm currently running will not have enough power for the new set up but I remember hearing about a new PSU standard. While the new ATX standard might not be required for this build, I'll probably keep this set up for the next 4 or 5 years and it will most likely be running a different GPU in a year or two, depending if manufacturers get their shit together regarding price.

I'm thinking 850W PSU should be enough or do you think I should go for 1000W?

What is the recommended PSU to get? Is it really important for it to support the new standard or not really?
 
Guys. Which FRACTAL NORTH will fit better in place of my phanteks p600s ?
White or black? with Glass or mesh ?! I can't decide but it's much smaller than my p600s and I was looking to change some things up for some time
www.fractal-design.com

North

North reimagines the gaming PC, introducing natural materials and bespoke details to make gaming a stylish addition to the living space. Fusing design and airflow engineering, the case features fine-patterned mesh ventilation and an open front with real walnut or oak panels. The design is...
www.fractal-design.com www.fractal-design.com

SUUbmWh.jpg


I know I have black furniture but maybe I will change in the future to something lighter.
Ps5 is white, maybe pc could be too? I like having white accessories like headphones, keyboard, chair (will replace mouse soon too). I always had everything black, so maybe white is a nice change.
Although that black and gold + cherry wood looks great on North... oh man.
And white will probably reflect a bit more in the tv than black case would.

As for Glass vs mesh, it's not really a matter of temp. Reviews show no big difference.
I like how tv reflects in the glass. Also it makes stuff inside harder to see. Glass gets dusty and you can also see dust inside easier. But it's quiet and looks great.
Mesh will obscure insides a bit and I am still somewhat proud of my 3080fe... hard choices :p

Share your opinions! Which color/mesh/glass would be the best visual fit?!
edit: Looking more at it, there is an error in hardwarecanucks review. He put glass from back version onto white version and it's perfect. But in reality, the white version got these ugly white strips on top and bottom of glass and it looks bad.
The white mesh also has visible gaps on top and bottom. So it's either black mesh or black tg
 
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A.Romero said:
I'm getting ready to update my setup and I'm just going to build a new PC except for the GPU.

I decided to go for Raptor Lake with DDR5 (not sure if 16gb or 32 gb) together with my current 3070 RTX. I'll be connecting 2 or 3 7200 HDDs, 3 M.2 drives (2 of them NVME), about 4 system 120 mm fans together with air cooling (probably a Hyper 212 with 2 fans).

I'm getting a new PSU as the one I'm currently running will not have enough power for the new set up but I remember hearing about a new PSU standard. While the new ATX standard might not be required for this build, I'll probably keep this set up for the next 4 or 5 years and it will most likely be running a different GPU in a year or two, depending if manufacturers get their shit together regarding price.

I'm thinking 850W PSU should be enough or do you think I should go for 1000W?

What is the recommended PSU to get? Is it really important for it to support the new standard or not really?
Click to expand...
I'd say since you're going DDR5 and you plan to keep your system for about half a decade, I'd say go with 32GB of RAM. 850W PSU should be enough. I think you'll be fine with any of the usual suspects as far as what brand PSU to grab. (BeQuiet, Corsair, Seasonic, etc) I wouldn't worry to much about the new ATX standard. It's nice to have, but if you get a current gen PSU, you'll be fine. Extension cables exist, too.
rofif said:
Guys. Which FRACTAL NORTH will fit better in place of my phanteks p600s ?
White or black? with Glass or mesh ?! I can't decide but it's much smaller than my p600s and I was looking to change some things up for some time
www.fractal-design.com

North

North reimagines the gaming PC, introducing natural materials and bespoke details to make gaming a stylish addition to the living space. Fusing design and airflow engineering, the case features fine-patterned mesh ventilation and an open front with real walnut or oak panels. The design is...
www.fractal-design.com www.fractal-design.com

SUUbmWh.jpg


I know I have black furniture but maybe I will change in the future to something lighter.
Ps5 is white, maybe pc could be too? I like having white accessories like headphones, keyboard, chair (will replace mouse soon too). I always had everything black, so maybe white is a nice change.
Although that black and gold + cherry wood looks great on North... oh man.
And white will probably reflect a bit more in the tv than black case would.

As for Glass vs mesh, it's not really a matter of temp. Reviews show no big difference.
I like how tv reflects in the glass. Also it makes stuff inside harder to see. Glass gets dusty and you can also see dust inside easier. But it's quiet and looks great.
Mesh will obscure insides a bit and I am still somewhat proud of my 3080fe... hard choices :p

Share your opinions! Which color/mesh/glass would be the best visual fit?!
edit: Looking more at it, there is an error in hardwarecanucks review. He put glass from back version onto white version and it's perfect. But in reality, the white version got these ugly white strips on top and bottom of glass and it looks bad.
The white mesh also has visible gaps on top and bottom. So it's either black mesh or black tg
Click to expand...
I'd say go white glass. Think it would compliment your setup well. Every time I see a C1 or C2 (42') I'm like... I need it. But I really, really don't. lol
 
sorry if this is a dumb question but i just got a new PSU today and went to install it but the ATX cable confused me lol.

so on the PSU itself there is two separate "ports" for the ATX 24 pin cable to go into. an 18 pin port on the left and and 10 pin port on the right. both these have a little notch on the TOP for the cable clip to latch onto.

tkPkK4P.jpg


when i took the cable out ready to plug it in i realised the clip on the cable was on the BOTTOM. turning the cable around so the clip was on TOP meant that now the 10 pin cable was on the left and the 18 pin cable on the right so it didn't match with ports. the diagram confirms this is the correct way...

YYitBPq.jpg


i could plug either the 10 or 18 in but leave the other dangling but of course i know both need to go in...

Hb2QyrF.jpg


shit confused me real good lol. i eventually plugged in the 18 pin cable and had to pull the 10 pin part to fit into the PSU port but it feels wrong and the cable looks twisted.

but it works. my PC booted up no problem.

is this normal? or am i being dumb and missing something obvious here? it feels wrong to me because my old PSU cable was perfectly aligned and no pulling or twisting was needed.

thanks!!!
 
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