Use Ccleaner.
More passes the better although that will require time.
One pass is not enough.
Wikipedia said:According to the 2006 NIST Special Publication 800-88 Section 2.3 (p. 6): "Basically the change in track density and the related changes in the storage medium have created a situation where the acts of clearing and purging the media have converged. That is, for ATA disk drives manufactured after 2001 (over 15 GB) clearing by overwriting the media once is adequate to protect the media from both keyboard and laboratory attack."
According to the 2006 CMRR Tutorial on Disk Drive Data Sanitization Document (p. 8): "Secure erase does a single on-track erasure of the data on the disk drive. The U.S. National Security Agency published an Information Assurance Approval of single pass overwrite, after technical testing at CMRR showed that multiple on-track overwrite passes gave no additional erasure." "Secure erase" is a utility built into modern ATA hard drives that overwrites all data on a disk, including remapped (error) sectors.
Further analysis by Wright et al. seems to also indicate that one overwrite is all that is generally required.
Well I checked out my drive again and it's not showing anything to recover this time so I might be good.
I thought one pass was considered sufficient for hard drives?
From Wikipedia:
Can anyone that has a water cooling loop set up take a look at the picture below and let me know your thoughts?
Thank you!
http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh596/Stateless269/xigmatek_rad_flow.jpg
Can anyone that has a water cooling loop set up take a look at the picture below and let me know your thoughts?
Did you tweak anything in CCC? (don't)
don't make it so complex; water temperature hardly changes between components (I think I saw a 2c difference between CPU in and GPU out when running IBT+Furmark...)
so just go for what is the easiest to route the tubing; I guess pump->front rad->top rad->cpu->gpu->res.
As long as you keep the reservoir higher than the pump every kind of loop works though
also the way you've drawn it the bottom gpu won't get flow; i.e. the water will run right through the ports thereby skipping the entire block
also top rad might perform better when switched to intake, but then again it might result in too much overpressure inside the caseI'd leave it on outtake to be sure, even if you lose a couple of degrees C
Have you set your microphone to the front panel in 'recording devices'?haha well, I do have one problem: I got one bad stick of RAM. That's better than four, three, or two, though. Shouldn't be too hard to replace. I'm still unable to get sound to work through the front headphone jack (it only works through my Turtle Beach PX21 USB headset).
Do you have a sound card or on-board audio? Your front panel might have come with two audio connectors (AC'97 an HDAUDIO) and you want to connect the HDAUDIO one to the sound card, or if you don't have one the appropriate motherboard slot. Also, you'll need the correct drivers installed - my Xonar DG wouldn't output sound to the front panel until I'd installed the Xonar software.haha well, I do have one problem: I got one bad stick of RAM. That's better than four, three, or two, though. Shouldn't be too hard to replace. I'm still unable to get sound to work through the front headphone jack (it only works through my Turtle Beach PX21 USB headset).
95CSo how toasty is too toasty for a GPU under load?
Okay, cool. Is there a preferred temp to keep under? I noticed that for short-ish sessions I stay around low-mid 70C but when I have longer play sessions I tend to peak at around 80C. I guess it doesn't help too much that my room tends to be 27-28C (which tbh, kinda makes playing games uncomfortable D
Under 80 is fine under normal use.Okay, cool. Is there a preferred temp to keep under? I noticed that for short-ish sessions I stay around low-mid 70C but when I have longer play sessions I tend to peak at around 80C. I guess it doesn't help too much that my room tends to be 27-28C (which tbh, kinda makes playing games uncomfortable D.
Apoligies in asking this again, but is there anything with these spec's that are worth keeping and using for my next PC..? Or should I just build a whole new PC?
Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) 9950 Quad-Core Processor, AMD64 Family 16 Model 2 Stepping 3
Processor Count: 4
RAM: 4093 Mb
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT, 512 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 953865 MB, Free - 524237 MB;
Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd., GA-MA78G-DS3HP
Appreciate the response, MrBig. Is the ram itself not useful either?
No, it's based on the the old DDR2 standard.
Apoligies in asking this again, but is there anything with these spec's that are worth keeping and using for my next PC..? Or should I just build a whole new PC?
Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) 9950 Quad-Core Processor, AMD64 Family 16 Model 2 Stepping 3
Processor Count: 4
RAM: 4093 Mb
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT, 512 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 953865 MB, Free - 524237 MB;
Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd., GA-MA78G-DS3HP
I recently build a new PC and it runs most games like a charm. However, for certain games I'd like to display the FPS so I can tweak accordingly. I installed Radeon Pro (I have an HD7850 OC) and in the options it says that you can display/toggle an FPS counter, but I simply can't get this to work. Do any of you know what I need to in order to get the fps counter running?
Doesn't the framerate take hit when using FRAPS?Download FRAPS.
Doesn't the framerate take hit when using FRAPS?
Yeah, I posted this over at the Evga Mod Rigs forum and they said the same thing as you have. I just never did water cooling and thought that once it leaves the CPU it would be hot and not benefit the GPU's.
I also noticed that the 2nd cpu the path is wrong...lol
Others have suggested that possibly only one pump wont be enough...what are thoughts on that? If I add a 2nd pump, ideally where would it go?
Great. Just installed it and tried it out.Only when recording.
Why not switch to the Asrock Z77 Pro 3 and spend the savings towards an i2500k?Alright guys, i'm on a strict budget and I need absolute maximum value for money build. Since I only use my home PC for banal tasks and some medium-gaming, just need to do 1920x1080 at respectable settings. Here's what i've got, choosing the best price/performance parts I can find:
CPU: i3 2120
GPU: Sapphire 7850 OC
RAM: 8GB Ares 1333
PSU: Corsair CX500
SSD: Sandisk Extreme 120
MOBO: Asrock Z77-Pro4-M (More than I need but I want to keep my options open)
CASE: Fractal Design R3 Mini
My only concern is potential bottlenecks between the CPU and GPU. I'm not willing to pull the trigger on a quad though as its almost double for the 2500k (in high demand) or the 3570k and i'm not going to get double the performance out of it. My other option would be to get a G850 or something and upgrade in a years time, would it hold on a game like D3 however?
Why not switch to the Asrock Z77 Pro 3 and spend the savings towards an i2500k?
I just noticed that I got the Pro 4 and Extreme 4 mixed up.Its not any cheaper in Aus.
Definitely keep the hard drive, at least as a data drive. If I'm reading that right and it's a 1TB with ~500GB free.
I've been having some issues with my HD 7850 after installing the Catalyst 12.4 drivers. First thing I noticed after the install was the known glitch with the driver stating it's still 12.3, however after running the heaven benchmark I noticed flickering on the textures and shadows that I don't remember being there before (on stock settings). Thus I immediately unstalled the drivers and reinstalled the 12.3 version I was using before, however the problems are worryingly persisting.
Is there a chance I missed a step when it came to uninstalling the drivers (just used the uninstall command on the driver file) or am I screwed/have to hope it will be fixed with future drivers?
Whenever I uninstall graphics drivers, I like to use Driver Sweeper to get rid of everything, as uninstalling never usually does this. It might help to uninstall again, reboot and head into Safe Mode and use Driver Sweeper, then reboot again and install your 12.3 drivers. Unfortunately there's not much you might be able to do other than thatAs an update to this here's a video of it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNT9akRx0f0&feature=youtu.be
The quality's pretty terrible as I've never recorded/compressed/uploaded anything before. However you can clearly see some flickering at 10-12 seconds in. Has anybody got any ideas on if there's anything I can do about it?
Whenever I uninstall graphics drivers, I like to use Driver Sweeper to get rid of everything, as uninstalling never usually does this. It might help to uninstall again, reboot and head into Safe Mode and use Driver Sweeper, then reboot again and install your 12.3 drivers. Unfortunately there's not much you might be able to do other than that![]()
Great. Just installed it and tried it out.
As expected, framerate doesn't really reach a stable 60 when playing games such as The Witcher II and Alan Wake with all settings on high. Mostly around the mid 40s and high 50s in those games.
1600x1050. Still need to buy a new monitor so I can play in 1080p. Also haven't bothered fiddling with my i2500k and the OC settings of my HD7850.What resolution ??
It's time for me to build a new pc. I decided on most of the stuff but I am 'stuck' on the CPU & GPU.
My purpose is to just game at 1920x1080 res @ 60fps. I am not interested in multiple monitor setups and that is where my confusion/doubt kicks in when looking at benchmarks and stuff. I can not decide between the GTX 670 or the GTX 680. The chart in the OP doesn't mention the GTX 680 either so I am starting to wonder if it really is worth the extra 100 euro.
SLI/CF is something I am not interested in.
CPU I am 'stuck' on deciding between the I7 3770K 3,5ghz and the I5 3570K 3,5ghz. The difference between those 2 is (again) 100 euro.
Are there any huge benefits over picking those 2 more expensive options or would it be smarter to just keep those 200 euro and spend them on eh.. Well, other things!
For what it is worth - my budget is around 1100 euro. I do not need to buy a new monitor, mouse/keyboard/sound card/OS and stuff so that gives me plenty of spare cash to buy a proper system. My current system is kinda old. E8500, 4gig DDR2 ram, Radeon 4870x2.
I think this is the best place to ask this, but it's specifically an audio question rather than a full PC question.
I have a reasonably powerful laptop which sits downstairs with an HDMI-out for comfy couch gaming. I'd like to figure out how to get 5.1 from it to my amp.
My amp is old, though, and doesn't have any HDMI ins. My original plan was to plug the HDMI into my telly then use the optical out from the TV into the amp, but my TV seems to only want to do stereo passthrough, and as far as I can tell there's no way to force 5.1 passthrough - I can find quite a few responses that suggest that it's not possible with my telly, and rare with televisions in general.
The single cheapest option would be to pick up a 3.5mm optical cable or convertor and use that, but I'm curious about other options - particularly because I'm running out of inputs on my amp.
Any suggestions as to how to get a 5.1 signal from HDMI to my amp without breaking the bank?
There should be an options in the bios to change the ram multiple from 13.33 to 16.Finally assembled my new parts. Was pretty smooth overall, I did add an extra fan to my hyper 212 and 2 front fans for the case.
Now I want to OC my 3570k and somehow figure out a way to get my RAM to 1600 instead of the 1333 that it's currently showing.
Once again thanks to Hazaro, mkenyon and the rest of the people here for helping me figure out the parts&build.
680 is a waste of money, there is hardly any practical difference (a stock Asus DCU2 670 TOP can beat a stock reference 680) between it and the 670, that is why it is not recommended. 3770k is useful for hardware rendering applications, but that's about it at the current point in time; if you're just gaming get a 3570k or a 2500k.