He shrugs off the timekeeping claims as braggadocio, goes on at length and how it's not convenient as a watch (the only good thing he has to say about it is you can see it in the dark), nitpicks the design of the screen and bezel looking bad in direct light when it's off, says it's slow and that the only truly compelling stuff the device does requires your friends and family to have one too...
this is a really one-sided impression of his review.
his time keeping complaints come down almost solely to people who are regular watch wearers (which is an issue all smart watches will have to compete with, or destroy battery life, or deal with the vast limitations of eInk screens). For non-watch wearers he admitted that the timekeeping annoyances almost certainly won't be there.
his thoughts on the device
It has the finest fit and finish of any Apple product I’ve ever used. It is a wonderfully well-constructed and designed object.
he goes on to say
In bright sunlight and certain severe indoor lighting, you can see the display apart from the surrounding bezel. But in most cases, Apple Watch doesn’t look like a gadget with a display — it looks like a watch with a black face.
he then goes on to talk about the differences between the look of a traditional watch and apple watch, not nitpicking.. nowhere does he say anything remotely close to "the screen and bezel looking bad in direct light when it's off"
he never mentions speed (not sure where you read that), and actually mentioned both the taptic engine AND digital touch as revelations.. only the latter which requires other watch users..
basically his review reads nothing like you described it. his review reads "if you're a regular watch wearer, there are some trade offs here. if you're looking for a smart watch it a great smart watch"