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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86

mhhh i am a bit on the fence. i live in germany, a relative small town with 165.000 souls. My Last ride was a moving couch called Fiat Tempra in 2007. I never drove since back then.

But my job does require a travel from time to time and i am sick of not having this last bit of mobility. Soo. i am looking at a Seat Ibiza or Mazda 2 Nakama. Which would you recommend. want to testdrive both of them in the near future. Or would you guys say a used car is better as a "restart"...

The mazda 2 is a pretty good car. Though you could save money getting something used.

I assume this is just going to be an occasional commuter car right? If it were me I'd get something small and Japanese. Though I don't know what your options are being in Germany.
 

Futaba

Member
I don't know if this is even a good place to ask this but I'm desperate...

I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent that is having stalling/starting problems. It has stalled out on me completely about 5 times while the car was on and I was waiting at a stop light or in a drive-thru. Usually it would turn back on right away or after a few minutes of trying. Now it has trouble cold starting sometimes. It always starts eventually, you just have to give it time.

I took it to a mechanic and they said there are no codes on it, and they can't tell what's wrong unless they can get it to stall themselves. They charged me for it and didn't help me, essentially. The battery is fine. It's not overheating. It happens when it's low or full on gas.

I'm really frustrated because I've found several ideas online of what it could be but I don't want to throw parts at it without knowing what the problem is.

Does anyone have any ideas of where I should start on this? How can I diagnose it without just trying random repairs?

Unfortunately modern cars are more electronically controlled than ever so youre at the mercy of what the sensors can provide to the ecu, hence why the garage you took it to just checked codes then gave up when it turned up nothing, so the best approach is to rule out the cheapest repairs first yourself, however from what you posted id be say that from the sound of it you may find the culprit to be the crankshaft sensor, you could try taking it to a hyundai dealership and ask them if they can check it, so long as your cars under 5 years old since purchased and under 100k, they should test it and replace it for free (if faulty), but you could easilly do it yourself too.

If it's the crankshaft sensor as I suspect then the testing equipment will show the waveforms are way out of whack when the cars rough/stalling, but wouldnt neceserilly throw a code because its still returning a signal to the ecu (even if the signal itself is wrong), the ecu would only throw a code on that sensor if it stopped sending a signal, as such crankshaft sensor is a relatively common fault on these vehicles.

The sensor itself can be bought on ebay for less than $10 (infact i just searched and found plenty with free shipping for $5!) and can easilly be installed yourself with no mechanical background, all you need is a 10mm socket tool to take out the bolt that holds it in then swap with the new one, just remember to disconnect the battery before you start so you dont throw any codes with the ecu.

Sensor on those cars is usually located at the front right of the engine (closest to you on right side if standing at the front of the car) so would be cheap and easy to just replace yourself to rule it out if youre worried about potential garage bills

Since its likely the problem, cheap and possoble to do yourself quite easilly, i would highly recommend giving it a try, worst case scenario is you now have a sensor with more life left in it and you have ruled it out, narrowing down the list if potential issues without some garage charging you out if the ass fir the *sarcasm* super hard job if removing one bolt and swapping a sensor *sarcasm*.

Yes sir, you'll find no love for the average garage mechanics with me.

If you want to try replacing the sensor yourself and need a little help with it shoot me a pm and id be happy to guide you through it.
 

Futaba

Member
Thanks! Based on some cursory searches I found information about the crankshaft position sensor. Sounds like other people with similar issues have solved it with that. I ended up taking the car to the dealership today, it is under 100K miles so I'm hoping I can get work done under warranty.
Nice! If they don't cover it on warranty shoot me a pm on what parts they quote you on needing to be replaced and i'll tell you if theyre trying to gank you on part prices or if its something you could eassily do yourself with basic tools.

If for example it is the sensor and they wont cover under warranty for whatever reason, you'll likely get a quote of a few hundred to fix, which you could fix yourself with a $5 part and a cheap $10 set of sockets!

Count yoursrlf lucky though, when i'm feeling particularly lazy and get quotes for work here in Japan the prices are astronomical.

Got quoted $400 labor for a dot3 flush to dot4 and bleed on brake system, *without* the price of the dot4 fluid or tax factored in.
It seems pretty obvious to me this is one of the reasons why exports of relatively new cars in Japan are so common, only the rich or mechanically minded can afford to do work on cars themselves out here :/

Replaced a leaking radiator for a family friend last month and his mind was blown when all i wanted in return was a cold beer
 
Here's some photos after detailing my R34 GTR M-Spec with newly fited 18 x 10.5" Nismo LMGT4 rims.

fetch


fetch


fetch


fetch


fetch


fetch
 

Evo X

Member
Well snap, I accidentally a whole new car

Went for M140i (pic is M135i but they are identical externally) in grey with red leather, managed to get a ~23% discount on the total OTR price.

Congrats! That's an awesome car and you got a great deal.

Here's some photos after detailing my R34 GTR M-Spec with newly fited 18 x 10.5" Nismo LMGT4 rims.

Now that's a proper GTR. None of that overweight tech laden automatic R35 shit.

Fantastic detail job and pics as always Duracell.
 

Futaba

Member
wBzrbRzh.jpg


Drive 650km on the weekend they said.
It'll be fun they said.

Last 40km at 5km/h because japanese drivers are terrified of the rain, not fun, not fun at all.

At least i'm cooking mexican tonight.
 

Futaba

Member
Assuming thats 225kmh and not some crazy engine swap mph, that's approx 145kmh over the maximum speed limit here :'(

And i've never broken the speed limit here.. Yes mr officer, i've never broke 200 on the tomei at any point, i'm a law obiding citizen that cherishes having 0 points on license..

(Fellow 86/twin owner? nice)
 

OnkelC

Hail to the Chef
Most (if not all) cities offer you an online check if a desired plate combo is available and if so, you can reserve it for 6 months. As of late, you can even take the number plate along with you if you move cities.
 

Futaba

Member
yup.
6A2D80B6-2B8B-4B03-BAAF-5F6E6778CB99.jpg

thinking about swapping it in the near future, though.

Nice motor, sir!
Are those chips in the front bumper lip or reflections? (I'm assuming chips since Toyota/Subaru decided to paint these vehicles with a coating so thin global foundries got jealous)

I've had a few friends move to other vehicles, some to the new miata, others to bigger vehicles, I'm likely just going to keep my 86 as a DD and modify it as I go while working on/owning other vehicles.

Sooner or later going to go with FI / Engine swappage, just depends how long the boxer lasts me
 
I don't know if this is even a good place to ask this but I'm desperate...

I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent that is having stalling/starting problems. It has stalled out on me completely about 5 times while the car was on and I was waiting at a stop light or in a drive-thru. Usually it would turn back on right away or after a few minutes of trying. Now it has trouble cold starting sometimes. It always starts eventually, you just have to give it time.

I took it to a mechanic and they said there are no codes on it, and they can't tell what's wrong unless they can get it to stall themselves. They charged me for it and didn't help me, essentially. The battery is fine. It's not overheating. It happens when it's low or full on gas.

I'm really frustrated because I've found several ideas online of what it could be but I don't want to throw parts at it without knowing what the problem is.

Does anyone have any ideas of where I should start on this? How can I diagnose it without just trying random repairs?

Sounds like you've already got a plan and Futaba gave you help, but in the future you'll want to go to a dealership or manufacturer specific independent shop for intermittent electrical issues on modern cars. The diagnostic hardware and software they have will be able to pinpoint the issue with ease. They'll charge you for that diagnostic (it's expensive to get the licenses for that software), but you'll get an answer.
 

OnkelC

Hail to the Chef
Nice motor, sir!
Are those chips in the front bumper lip or reflections? (I'm assuming chips since Toyota/Subaru decided to paint these vehicles with a coating so thin global foundries got jealous)

I've had a few friends move to other vehicles, some to the new miata, others to bigger vehicles, I'm likely just going to keep my 86 as a DD and modify it as I go while working on/owning other vehicles.

Sooner or later going to go with FI / Engine swappage, just depends how long the boxer lasts me

Just reflections, the paintwork has proven itself quite durable over the last 3-odd years of daily use.

I would leave the engine alone, it fits the car perfectly IMHO. I added most of the TRD catalogue parts to the car by the way, just for the fun of it.

Since said daily use has shifted to more business-related trips and parking situations in inner city environments, I am looking at the current Fiesta ST at the moment. Quite the fun car it is.
 
So I leased my first car 2 weeks ago I got a Ford Mustang and my payments are 367 a month which doesn't seem too high but I feel like I'm having buyers remorse
 

Futaba

Member
I would leave the engine alone, it fits the car perfectly IMHO. I added most of the TRD catalogue parts to the car by the way, just for the fun of it.
Indeed!
However when I bought the car the plan was to use it as a trackable DD, and after several sessions at fuji speedway and tsukuba, as well as.. Lots ot time in the mountains, i need a little more kick than it currently gives, already swapped a bunch of engine parts for forged counterparts, so i'm looling at a moderate level of boost to give it that kick without it causing much more of a risk to engine failure.

If i wasnt tracking it or taking it up to the mountains though I doubt i'd be doing anything to the engine beyond standard maintanence, as theres rarely a time under normal road use where I feel its significantly underpowered.

Did you go with the full trd rigidity kit too? I've switched the sway bars but held off on going as far as the full kit thus far, just wondered what your opinion of it was if you did install it.


Spotted this, early this morning during a quick stop for supplies.

REXVlbih.jpg


Not every day you see a Ford Escort RS Cosworth in Japan!
 

OnkelC

Hail to the Chef
I did:

TRD Member Brace Set
TRD Stabilizer Set
TRD Front Strut Tower bar
TRD Light Weight Flywheel
TRD Clutch Cover
TRD Clutch Disc (Sports Facing)
TRD Sports Oil Filter
TRD Oil Filler Cap
TRD Radiator Cap
TRD Steering Wheel
TRD Quick Shift Lever Set (JDM)
TRD Start Button
TRD Door Stabilizers

Hella Supertone Horns
TRD USA Performance Air Intake
Eibach Pro Kit
Bastuck Catback Exhaust w/stock tips

OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +43 (Toyota EU S.E.)
Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/40R18

And the most important tuning part of them all:
TRD Fuel Cap Cover

The car was at the workshop for two days when I had it all fitted. Car felt stiffer by a huge margin after the revamp.
 
I don't know if this is even a good place to ask this but I'm desperate...

I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent that is having stalling/starting problems. It has stalled out on me completely about 5 times while the car was on and I was waiting at a stop light or in a drive-thru. Usually it would turn back on right away or after a few minutes of trying. Now it has trouble cold starting sometimes. It always starts eventually, you just have to give it time.

I took it to a mechanic and they said there are no codes on it, and they can't tell what's wrong unless they can get it to stall themselves. They charged me for it and didn't help me, essentially. The battery is fine. It's not overheating. It happens when it's low or full on gas.

I'm really frustrated because I've found several ideas online of what it could be but I don't want to throw parts at it without knowing what the problem is.

Does anyone have any ideas of where I should start on this? How can I diagnose it without just trying random repairs?

Did you notice while you were at a standstill that the RPMs were dropping?

Like, it's supposed to idle at (for example) around 650rpm, and all of a sudden it dips to 500rpm and then back up to 650?

I had my old mazda protege do this, it was some electrical problem, wasn't too expensive to fix.

Edit: I just re-read my post and realise it doesn't help one bit, sorry about that. At least mine was cheap to fix.
 
Most (if not all) cities offer you an online check if a desired plate combo is available and if so, you can reserve it for 6 months. As of late, you can even take the number plate along with you if you move cities.

Interesting. Kinda makes me wonder how plates work in Germany as I would expect a certain number to be permanently bound to a specific vehicle, but it sounds like that's not how it works.
 

OnkelC

Hail to the Chef
Edit:
car registration in germany is a duty by the city or county the car owner is citizen of.
First one to three letters is the abbreviation for the City or county (e.g "B" for Berlin" "F" for Frankfurt, "M" for Munich and so on), with the larger cities having one letter, medium sized cities and counties having two or three letters.
The following one or two letters as well as the number digits after that are randomized and free to choose if not already taken. Alterantively, one can go for a random number plate.
 

matmanx1

Member
So I leased my first car 2 weeks ago I got a Ford Mustang and my payments are 367 a month which doesn't seem too high but I feel like I'm having buyers remorse

Haven't had a payment in a while? It's always tough to go from no payment to paying for a car, even if it is something that you like.

$367 isn't bad at all though in terms of a monthly payment but that number is always relative to what you can afford and how it effects your budget. What kind of Mustang was it, if I might ask?
 
Haven't had a payment in a while? It's always tough to go from no payment to paying for a car, even if it is something that you like.

$367 isn't bad at all though in terms of a monthly payment but that number is always relative to what you can afford and how it effects your budget. What kind of Mustang was it, if I might ask?
2016 4 cylinder with eco boost not to sure on anything else not a car nerd lol
 

matmanx1

Member
So I picked up the Car and Driver magazine this weekend that had the results of the 10th annual Lightning Lap at Virginia International Raceway.

My takeaway is that American manufacturers have done a great job in the last couple of years of making great performance cars for the money. The writers gave big praise to the 1LE Camaro, the Corvette Grand Sport and the Mustang GT350R (and to a lesser extent, the Focus RS) which put up lap times that were either neck and neck or faster than machines that cost twice as much.

The 1LE Camaro is an absolutely INSANE value at less than $35k and is a legit track weapon. In the under $35k "cheap" category (called LL1) the Camaro is the fastest car that they have ever tested by about 8 seconds and is quicker than many of the more expensive cars in the LL2 category, including the regular Mustang GT with track pack.

The Mustang does acquit itself nicely though with the GT350R which put in a lap time that was faster than the $130K M4 GTS and just a tick slower than the $100k Cayman GT4.

And of course faster than all of the above while still starting in the $65k range was the Corvette Grand Sport which is, at this point, the best performance car bargain on the planet. It put in lap times which placed it in the same company as the McLaren 570S and the Ferrari 488GTB and those machines cost A LOT more.

I know we talked a little bit about this several pages ago but it is fairly exciting to see what Ford and GM are doing with their performance divisions right now and the results they are having versus some of the worlds best.
 

Smokey

Member
So I picked up the Car and Driver magazine this weekend that had the results of the 10th annual Lightning Lap at Virginia International Raceway.

My takeaway is that American manufacturers have done a great job in the last couple of years of making great performance cars for the money. The writers gave big praise to the 1LE Camaro, the Corvette Grand Sport and the Mustang GT350R (and to a lesser extent, the Focus RS) which put up lap times that were either neck and neck or faster than machines that cost twice as much.

The 1LE Camaro is an absolutely INSANE value at less than $35k and is a legit track weapon. In the under $35k "cheap" category (called LL1) the Camaro is the fastest car that they have ever tested by about 8 seconds and is quicker than many of the more expensive cars in the LL2 category, including the regular Mustang GT with track pack.

The Mustang does acquit itself nicely though with the GT350R which put in a lap time that was faster than the $130K M4 GTS and just a tick slower than the $100k Cayman GT4.

And of course faster than all of the above while still starting in the $65k range was the Corvette Grand Sport which is, at this point, the best performance car bargain on the planet. It put in lap times which placed it in the same company as the McLaren 570S and the Ferrari 488GTB and those machines cost A LOT more.

I know we talked a little bit about this several pages ago but it is fairly exciting to see what Ford and GM are doing with their performance divisions right now and the results they are having versus some of the worlds best.

I need to read up on the Grand Sport. So it technically sits below the Z06? But won't kill you?
 

Smokey

Member
While looking up grand sport , I took a look again at the z06 and it's numbers, engine, etc

my god

They can't possibly go higher in power for the next gen z06...and stay on rwd...can they?
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
While looking up grand sport , I took a look again at the z06 and it's numbers, engine, etc

my god

They can't possibly go higher in power for the next gen z06...and stay on rwd...can they?

This is America bruh. Fuck you and your AWD!

But seriously, who the hell knows.

wlS2yK1.png


wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

I went over my budget. My old man kept hounding me, "you'll regret it forever!"

He's totally right.

A $15K E39 M5? Congrats. But you're so fucked. Better crack open that savings piggy bank. You'll probably start pouring money into this thing sooner than later. I seriously hope you don't, because E39s = bae. But man, that's really cheap.

Post some pics. Mileage. Details. etc
 

mkenyon

Banned
This is America bruh. Fuck you and your AWD!

But seriously, who the hell knows.





A $15K E39 M5? Congrats. But you're so fucked. Better crack open that savings piggy bank. You'll probably start pouring money into this thing sooner than later. I seriously hope you don't, because E39s = bae. But man, that's really cheap.

Post some pics. Mileage. Details. etc
It's been vetted really well through BAT. Tons of discussion and clarification on what has/has not been done. It's in amazing condition right now, the prior owner had this as a really low mileage fun car that he dumped a *ton* of money into.

http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2000-bmw-m5-3/

I appreciate your concern, Alpha's got my back! I'm only going to be putting 2-5k miles on it a year though. Daily driver is still the Ram 2500. This will be for either pleasure, or when I/my wife happen to be out of town and the other one needs a car.

Plus, baby is due in 3 months. I hear that does wonders for your social life!

*edit*

Im pretty sure it being in Montana was part of the reason the auction was so low. Fortunately, it's only a 12 hour drive to Bend. Gonna fly over Monday, drive it back next Tuesday :p

*edit 2*

Smokey, that Grand Sport is the fucking business. Don't let your dreams become dreams.

eUijVS1.jpg
 

Futaba

Member
Anyone here watch B is for Build on youtube?, Dude has spent the past few months bringing back a crash damaged Lotus Evora from the brink, done a pretty awesome job of it so far too
 
Is a C250 Sport around $18-22K worth it? 2013 and 14 so obviously previous gen but they're all "decent mileage" around 30-60K.

Asking coz I might get an opportunity to get one for even cheaper due to certain connections lol.
 
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