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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86

Pinewood

Member
So is getting a 50k car
not necessarily a X5
considered bad fiscally if you make 50k a year? Like, considering its before tax, youd end up with like 3k monthly. If you downpay like 5-10k you can take the monthly payment down to like 500 depending on the length of the lease and the remaining value.
 

kharma45

Member
Went test driving an E60 530d with a friend yesterday. Surprised how well it holds up inside. Still feels fresh and externally I think it's nicer than the two that have come after. The SAT gearbox is fairly fun.
 

McHuj

Member
Hey guys, need some advice. I'm slowly getting around to purchasing a new car and I'd like to upgrade to a much nicer car that I'll drive for the next 8-10 years. I'm looking specifically at the new A4 and IS200. I test drove both and like both.

The Audi is certainly nicer, but what worries me about the Audi is the long term reliability and cost to maintain it versus a Lexus.
 

matmanx1

Member
So is getting a 50k car
not necessarily a X5
considered bad fiscally if you make 50k a year? Like, considering its before tax, youd end up with like 3k monthly. If you downpay like 5-10k you can take the monthly payment down to like 500 depending on the length of the lease and the remaining value.

Depends on other financial factors like overall debt load. If you have very little other debt / outgoing expenses per month then it is certainly doable. The 2007 Boxster I bought pre-owned cost about 34k (at the time - this was several years back) and that's about what I was making a year. The payments were around $500 a month and it was doable because I didn't have a lot of other expenses.

Hey guys, need some advice. I'm slowly getting around to purchasing a new car and I'd like to upgrade to a much nicer car that I'll drive for the next 8-10 years. I'm looking specifically at the new A4 and IS200. I test drove both and like both.

The Audi is certainly nicer, but what worries me about the Audi is the long term reliability and cost to maintain it versus a Lexus.

For that kind of time frame then I would go with the Lexus. It will almost certainly have a lower cost to own over a 10 year time frame than any German automobile, especially after the warranty expires.
 

boltz

Member
So is getting a 50k car
not necessarily a X5
considered bad fiscally if you make 50k a year? Like, considering its before tax, youd end up with like 3k monthly. If you downpay like 5-10k you can take the monthly payment down to like 500 depending on the length of the lease and the remaining value.

Do you have a monthly budget laid out? You don't want the 500 monthly car payment to take you right to the edge of what you're bringing in every month because you need to also factor in maintenance/insurance costs. And then consider what you could be doing with that $500 instead of putting it into a car payment (eg savings, investments, paying off other debts).

Hey guys, need some advice. I'm slowly getting around to purchasing a new car and I'd like to upgrade to a much nicer car that I'll drive for the next 8-10 years. I'm looking specifically at the new A4 and IS200. I test drove both and like both.

The Audi is certainly nicer, but what worries me about the Audi is the long term reliability and cost to maintain it versus a Lexus.

I also vote the IS200 for long term. Which version were you looking at? Since their turbo engine is relatively new, I would think the V6s would be better for long term reliability.
 
Hey guys, need some advice. I'm slowly getting around to purchasing a new car and I'd like to upgrade to a much nicer car that I'll drive for the next 8-10 years. I'm looking specifically at the new A4 and IS200. I test drove both and like both.

The Audi is certainly nicer, but what worries me about the Audi is the long term reliability and cost to maintain it versus a Lexus.

I would look at the Lexus (Toyota) over the Audi. The operating costs will be lower over time for it.
 

Crayon

Member
Whats the best way to record the exhaust sound?

Smashing through a tunnel with the windows down!

Hey guys, need some advice. I'm slowly getting around to purchasing a new car and I'd like to upgrade to a much nicer car that I'll drive for the next 8-10 years. I'm looking specifically at the new A4 and IS200. I test drove both and like both.

The Audi is certainly nicer, but what worries me about the Audi is the long term reliability and cost to maintain it versus a Lexus.

I'd rather push a Lexus than drive and Audi.
 

McHuj

Member
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll likely make a purchase in the next first half of 2017. If I could combine the two, I'd have a perfect car.

(I'm so very sick of our 10 year old CRV that I inherited from my wife. It's time)
 

Crayon

Member
Some people think I don't like turbos. That's not true. I just don't like dinky turbos.

turbopuppy.jpg

I like the boom boom turbo.


I like the gnar gnar turbo.

 

brau

Member
Quick question for you guys.

I am about to engage in refinancing a car that we are leasing so that we can own it. This will help lower considerably the payments. We already got a quote from our back that is a lot less but we are thinking of taking this to Honda and see if they can do a better deal and even go lower.

So question, does the Honda i go to have an impact on what kind of deal we get? Should i go to different Hondas?

Also, any pointers as to what i should look for?

The bank is giving us a 72 month agreement at 2.49% on the principal. This sound good?

Details. Honda CRV 2014. The car must have after almost 3 years only 20k miles on it. Top condition.
 

matmanx1

Member
Are you in a BMW? I think you can hold your phone up closer to the speakers.

BWAHAHAHAHA! Almost made me spit my coffee all over the screen...

Let me know when you find out haha! I've no idea but even phone clips will do for me, preferably of some drivebys... In a tunnel!



Well I picked up my new car! Very pleased but can't wait until the run-in period is over!



😢

Very sharp. Congrats and enjoy it!
 

Smokey

Member
Quick question for you guys.

I am about to engage in refinancing a car that we are leasing so that we can own it. This will help lower considerably the payments. We already got a quote from our back that is a lot less but we are thinking of taking this to Honda and see if they can do a better deal and even go lower.

So question, does the Honda i go to have an impact on what kind of deal we get? Should i go to different Hondas?

Also, any pointers as to what i should look for?

The bank is giving us a 72 month agreement at 2.49% on the principal. This sound good?

Details. Honda CRV 2014. The car must have after almost 3 years only 20k miles on it. Top condition.

So in the end you will have paid 10 years on this car? 72 months is a very long time as well. Anyway you can lower the term?
 

Browny

Banned
Quick question for you guys.

I am about to engage in refinancing a car that we are leasing so that we can own it. This will help lower considerably the payments. We already got a quote from our back that is a lot less but we are thinking of taking this to Honda and see if they can do a better deal and even go lower.

So question, does the Honda i go to have an impact on what kind of deal we get? Should i go to different Hondas?

Also, any pointers as to what i should look for?

The bank is giving us a 72 month agreement at 2.49% on the principal. This sound good?

Details. Honda CRV 2014. The car must have after almost 3 years only 20k miles on it. Top condition.

A 6 year deal on an already 3 year old car? I wouldn't suggest it. You'll be ending up with a car with very little resale value and probably have paid more in interest than the initial invoice value...
 
Quick question for you guys.

I am about to engage in refinancing a car that we are leasing so that we can own it. This will help lower considerably the payments. We already got a quote from our back that is a lot less but we are thinking of taking this to Honda and see if they can do a better deal and even go lower.

So question, does the Honda i go to have an impact on what kind of deal we get? Should i go to different Hondas?

Also, any pointers as to what i should look for?

The bank is giving us a 72 month agreement at 2.49% on the principal. This sound good?

Details. Honda CRV 2014. The car must have after almost 3 years only 20k miles on it. Top condition.

Is this post lease end buyout or early buyout during the term of the lease? What are the numbers looking like for early buyout price vs paying rest of lease + residual?

Because you are leasing from Honda, the buyout price should be the same at any dealer. The documents you signed at the start of the lease will have the buyout price listed somewhere.
 

Anion

Member
Damn I hate driving this time of the year. Literally drunks driving everywhere. First time I have to drive on New Years Eve and I nearly get rear ended twice. Thankfully shoulders are a thing...
 
Damn I hate driving this time of the year. Literally drunks driving everywhere. First time I have to drive on New Years Eve and I nearly get rear ended twice. Thankfully shoulders are a thing...

Looking at that Manual Driving thread in OT, I am beginning to get scared of driving at any time of the year...
 
Auto-GAF, I need some advice. I'm helping my mom buy a car, and I stumbled across this guy: http://www.kingsautomall.com/used/Toyota/2012-Toyota-Prius-9e9ada2d0a0e0ae8294096d161737e8b.htm

It fits all her specs (Prius, nav system), but that price is sufficiently amazing to make me suspicious as hell. Carfax looks clean, but is there anything else I should look out for? Kind of a newbie at this sorta thing.

The price isn't as great as it looks considering it has 120,000 miles on it. An average 5 year old car will only have 60,000 miles on it.
 
The price isn't as great as it looks considering it has 120,000 miles on it. An average 5 year old car will only have 60,000 miles on it.

This.

That's 30k miles a year!

It being a Toyota, it probably is fine but that 30k miles year is pretty sketchy. Unless you can get a mechanic, preferably a Prius specialist, to confirm that it still is in good condition, I'd definitely stay away from this.
 

FStop7

Banned
Handbrake at an intersection, neutral is against the law, jesus what do they teach you there?

Oh hi there, sounds like you're shit talking about what I wrote in that thread.. The fact is that people are taught contradictory things about the use of neutral (both when moving and while stopped) not just in a number of states but in different countries, including the U.K., which has a better driver training than any US state.

http://message.snopes.com/showthread.php?t=8804

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/coasting-legality-uk-12786.html

https://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070902165252AA1EmjB

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-hig...-advice-for-all-drivers-and-riders-103-to-158

Rule 122
Coasting. This term describes a vehicle travelling in neutral or with the clutch pressed down. It can reduce driver control because

engine braking is eliminated

vehicle speed downhill will increase quickly

increased use of the footbrake can reduce its effectiveness
steering response will be affected, particularly on bends and corners

it may be more difficult to select the appropriate gear when needed.

Where are you from where you weren't taught about wearing underwear, shaving, or washing your hands?
 

Pinewood

Member
Oh hi there, sounds like you're shit talking about what I wrote in that thread.. The fact is that people are taught contradictory things about the use of neutral (both when moving and while stopped) not just in a number of states but in different countries, including the U.K., which has a better driver training than any US state.

http://message.snopes.com/showthread.php?t=8804

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/coasting-legality-uk-12786.html

https://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070902165252AA1EmjB

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-hig...-advice-for-all-drivers-and-riders-103-to-158



Where are you from where you weren't taught about wearing underwear, shaving, or washing your hands?
This isnt the first time Ive heard that keeping it in neutral is tecnically illegal in the US, which is pretty stupid in a manual car

But taking blanket statements about a thread personally is just unhealthy
 

kharma45

Member
Handbrake at an intersection, neutral is against the law, jesus what do they teach you there?

Handbrake applied when you're stopped is the rules for the UK driving test, and most seem to have missed the point of the thread that the OP is learning to drive in the UK. He can pick up all the shit habits being suggested to him in that thread like coasting around in neutral after he passes, but for now, he has to do it by the book, which few if any are grasping.
 
BWAHAHAHAHA! Almost made me spit my coffee all over the screen...



Very sharp. Congrats and enjoy it!

Congratulations! Lovely.
Thanks guys!
Happy New years auto-gaf!! Be safe ya'll!

Starting the new years right..tomorrow I'll be looking for a tunnel and taking vids for you guys.
Thanks!! I'm very excited to hear more, in fact I'm going to go listen again.
lol, that thread is hilarious. As with most driving related threads in OT
I'm pretty blown away that there are motorists out there doing such things, it's fairly eye opening.
 

Pinewood

Member
Handbrake applied when you're stopped is the rules for the UK driving test, and most seem to have missed the point of the thread that the OP is learning to drive in the UK. He can pick up all the shit habits being suggested to him in that thread like coasting around in neutral after he passes, but for now, he has to do it by the book, which few if any are grasping.
The fact that its by the book doesnt mean it shouldnt be called out, yanking the handbrake at every opportunity is a rather shit habit. If I understood correctly one of those sites recommends putting automatic cars into park while wating behind stoplights beacuse you migth get rear ended.
 

brau

Member
So in the end you will have paid 10 years on this car? 72 months is a very long time as well. Anyway you can lower the term?

I can look into this. But it would probably raise my payment no? We have really high credit too, so what should i be looking for?

A 6 year deal on an already 3 year old car? I wouldn't suggest it. You'll be ending up with a car with very little resale value and probably have paid more in interest than the initial invoice value...

So what would be ideal?

Is this post lease end buyout or early buyout during the term of the lease? What are the numbers looking like for early buyout price vs paying rest of lease + residual?

Because you are leasing from Honda, the buyout price should be the same at any dealer. The documents you signed at the start of the lease will have the buyout price listed somewhere.

This is interesting. I'll take a look at the buyout number. When i look at the number what should this tell me? this is the amount that i should be looking to pay? From the initial quote i got from Honda is 20k is the Retail Price, and adding up the amount of money we've payed so far over 3 years is 13k. from the original price of the car which was 31k i think.

The buyout is coming at the end of the lease. Lease ends in April. i mean, we can just drop off the car and be done with it if we wanted and try to find a better deal on a new/used car. What would you guys recommend? The idea was to keep the CRV for its convenience and so far being a reliable car. But also to lower the payment we had by $200. So far, with the bank its lowering it by almost $150.

I guess it would be smarter to close the lease and look for a new car with a better term + apr? We do like the size of the CRV.

Thanks for all the input guys :) sorry im such a noob on this, but i really want to make sure we get a good deal this time around and go into it with all the information possible.
 

kharma45

Member
The fact that its by the book doesnt mean it shouldnt be called out, yanking the handbrake at every opportunity is a rather shit habit. If I understood correctly one of those sites recommends putting automatic cars into park while wating behind stoplights beacuse you migth get rear ended.

Irrelevant. If he wants to pass his test he has to do it. He can learn bad habits later. For now this is what he has to do, that much is incontrovertible. It's a long read but this is from a UK ADI, and you'll see there's a lot of emphasis put on using the handbrake when at a full stop and the rationale behind it http://www.diaryofanadi.co.uk/?p=4700
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Auto-GAF, I need some advice. I'm helping my mom buy a car, and I stumbled across this guy: http://www.kingsautomall.com/used/Toyota/2012-Toyota-Prius-9e9ada2d0a0e0ae8294096d161737e8b.htm

It fits all her specs (Prius, nav system), but that price is sufficiently amazing to make me suspicious as hell. Carfax looks clean, but is there anything else I should look out for? Kind of a newbie at this sorta thing.

While a Prius is an amazing car for what it is, one past 120K miles is something that will require money put into it to keep it running. Batteries fail on these cars around 150K, and they are about $4000 total. How often do you see 1st gen Prius' still on the road, for example? At $10K (7K trade value), it's diminishing returns at that point. Find a lower mileage example.

Don't get me wrong too, they are extremely reliable vehicles, and 150K is very worthy of praise today. But no car is without its quirks.
 
The price isn't as great as it looks considering it has 120,000 miles on it. An average 5 year old car will only have 60,000 miles on it.

This.

That's 30k miles a year!

It being a Toyota, it probably is fine but that 30k miles year is pretty sketchy. Unless you can get a mechanic, preferably a Prius specialist, to confirm that it still is in good condition, I'd definitely stay away from this.

While a Prius is an amazing car for what it is, one past 120K miles is something that will require money put into it to keep it running. Batteries fail on these cars around 150K, and they are about $4000 total. How often do you see 1st gen Prius' still on the road, for example? At $10K (7K trade value), it's diminishing returns at that point. Find a lower mileage example.

Don't get me wrong too, they are extremely reliable vehicles, and 150K is very worthy of praise today. But no car is without its quirks.

Alright, thanks guys. I'll probably go for another vehicle, then.
 
This is interesting. I'll take a look at the buyout number. When i look at the number what should this tell me? this is the amount that i should be looking to pay? From the initial quote i got from Honda is 20k is the Retail Price, and adding up the amount of money we've payed so far over 3 years is 13k. from the original price of the car which was 31k i think.

The buyout is coming at the end of the lease. Lease ends in April. i mean, we can just drop off the car and be done with it if we wanted and try to find a better deal on a new/used car. What would you guys recommend? The idea was to keep the CRV for its convenience and so far being a reliable car. But also to lower the payment we had by $200. So far, with the bank its lowering it by almost $150.

I guess it would be smarter to close the lease and look for a new car with a better term + apr? We do like the size of the CRV.

Thanks for all the input guys :) sorry im such a noob on this, but i really want to make sure we get a good deal this time around and go into it with all the information possible.

The residual/buyout would have already been set at the start of the lease. This is the price at which Honda will sell you the car right now. Unless there's some odd factor, there is no negotiating on that number. What you paid till now does not matter.

What I would suggest you do is put your car details into nadaguides.com and see what it is currently worth. If this number is higher than the buyout, I would suggest buying the car you already have from Honda. (i.e., lease buyout). If the nadaguides.com value is lower than what Honda is asking for, just return the car and buy another one on the used market.
 

brau

Member
The residual/buyout would have already been set at the start of the lease. This is the price at which Honda will sell you the car right now. Unless there's some odd factor, there is no negotiating on that number. What you paid till now does not matter.

What I would suggest you do is put your car details into nadaguides.com and see what it is currently worth. If this number is higher than the buyout, I would suggest buying the car you already have from Honda. (i.e., lease buyout). If the nadaguides.com value is lower than what Honda is asking for, just return the car and buy another one on the used market.

Hey. The buyout value for the car is priced on the lease as you said it would be. Its $18,162.

This is what i got when i went into that website.


We also looked at hondas deals and they have a 2016 CRV for $199 for 36 months at 1.9APR. So maybe that is something we can aim for, since its lower.
 
Hey. The buyout value for the car is priced on the lease as you said it would be. Its $18,162.

This is what i got when i went into that website.



We also looked at hondas deals and they have a 2016 CRV for $199 for 36 months at 1.9APR. So maybe that is something we can aim for, since its lower.

ok, looks like the $199 for 36 months is another lease. So you will be in the same situation again in three years. If you stay on this treadmill of leasing, in the long term, you will be "wasting" the most amount of money.

Based on the value of the car in the market, $18,162 is a good deal! Now it boils down to whether

1) You are happy with the car you have right now (no repairs? no other issues?)

2) Are you willing to pay $1,500 interest over 72 months for a $18,100 loan to keep you payment under $300? Based on what your bank offered you - 2.49% for a used car is not a bad rate but 72 months is a really long time for a car loan. You can play around with these numbers. If you make a $3000 down payment, and change the repayment time to 48 months your monthly payment will be ~$330 but you will only pay $700 interest.
 

No Love

Banned
Oh hi there, sounds like you're shit talking about what I wrote in that thread.. The fact is that people are taught contradictory things about the use of neutral (both when moving and while stopped) not just in a number of states but in different countries, including the U.K., which has a better driver training than any US state.

http://message.snopes.com/showthread.php?t=8804

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/coasting-legality-uk-12786.html

https://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070902165252AA1EmjB

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-hig...-advice-for-all-drivers-and-riders-103-to-158



Where are you from where you weren't taught about wearing underwear, shaving, or washing your hands?

Damn. Firing missles over here. How do you guys so easily find so much ammo in someone's post history?
 

matmanx1

Member
On a side note, looking at the rates brau is getting from his/her bank, I looked up some numbers online.

https://www.edmunds.com/car-loan/how-long-should-my-car-loan-be.html

Yeah and people are paying A LOT more interest than they have to if they are carrying those loans out to term. It's one thing to take out a 6 year loan and pay it off in 3 or 4 years (which gives you the flexibility to make a small monthly payment if you need to) but for me, 4 years is the max I will pay on a car. I took a 4 year note on the MX-5 but am paying well above the monthly payment and will have it paid off at least a year early. That's interest money back in the pocket.
 

ascii42

Member
Yeah and people are paying A LOT more interest than they have to if they are carrying those loans out to term. It's one thing to take out a 6 year loan and pay it off in 3 or 4 years (which gives you the flexibility to make a small monthly payment if you need to) but for me, 4 years is the max I will pay on a car. I took a 4 year note on the MX-5 but am paying well above the monthly payment and will have it paid off at least a year early. That's interest money back in the pocket.

I got a 5 year@1.95% on my ATS. While I paid off the Malibu early (the only other car I've had a loan on), I don't think I'll be paying off the ATS early since the interest rate is lower than my mortgage. Any extra money goes to that instead. Even if I do pay off the mortgage before I've finished making payments on the car, which is likely, I won't feel bad about paying 1.95% interest. I'd rather invest the money elsewhere.
 
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