You go with the V6 or Minimax?
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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86
- Thread starter AlphaSnake
- Start date
Cool build.
Azzurri
Member
It's the new 3.6 V6
It crazy how much these mid size and full size trucks cost now. I remember like 10 years ago you could get a decently equipped f150 or silverado for about 20k or so. Now, a truck with basically the same stuff as they did 10 years ago it's like 32-35k.
I really like how resale value are on a lot of these trucks too.
killertofu
Member
Wondering if someone could help me with my car situation.
I have an Acura RSX and in November I got a flat. I wanted to get all four tires and Tires Plus called me to tell me that my brake pads were really worn and my rotors were bad so I decided to be good and responsible and get those fixed too.
A few days later I hear squeaking/screeching coming from my car whenever I slow to brake. So I went to Tires Plus and they said they would fix it no charge.
Got the car the next day and still squeaking/screeching. Frustrated, I went to a mechanic at my parents' town during break and had them look at it. I thought the fix couldn't be THAT complicated, maybe throw a few bucks their way.
They charged me $240 for "R&R rotor turned and repair clips and broke hardware"--whatever the fuck that means. I was annoyed because they didn't even tell me what the problem was and fix it and then charged me.
But whatever, I won my work's fantasy football league by pure chance so it didn't phase me that much.
BUT SQUEAKING. STILL SQUEAKING. STILL SCREECHING. They did tell me that if it started squeaking again to come back to them, so I did.
But apparently they found "nothing wrong" and "couldn't hear anything" but ended up just lubing something just in case.
I drive it back to my town and within a day it still makes the damn sound.
I don't really know what to do at this point or who to yell at. Do I keep going back to the mechanic? Do I just yell at them for charging me 240$ and not fixing what I went there to fix?
I have an Acura RSX and in November I got a flat. I wanted to get all four tires and Tires Plus called me to tell me that my brake pads were really worn and my rotors were bad so I decided to be good and responsible and get those fixed too.
A few days later I hear squeaking/screeching coming from my car whenever I slow to brake. So I went to Tires Plus and they said they would fix it no charge.
Got the car the next day and still squeaking/screeching. Frustrated, I went to a mechanic at my parents' town during break and had them look at it. I thought the fix couldn't be THAT complicated, maybe throw a few bucks their way.
They charged me $240 for "R&R rotor turned and repair clips and broke hardware"--whatever the fuck that means. I was annoyed because they didn't even tell me what the problem was and fix it and then charged me.
But whatever, I won my work's fantasy football league by pure chance so it didn't phase me that much.
BUT SQUEAKING. STILL SQUEAKING. STILL SCREECHING. They did tell me that if it started squeaking again to come back to them, so I did.
But apparently they found "nothing wrong" and "couldn't hear anything" but ended up just lubing something just in case.
I drive it back to my town and within a day it still makes the damn sound.
I don't really know what to do at this point or who to yell at. Do I keep going back to the mechanic? Do I just yell at them for charging me 240$ and not fixing what I went there to fix?
Ya, it really is crazy. The HD stuff is even more insane because they're all on ancient platforms that only get revised every 10-15 years. I paid $8k under MSRP on my Ram 2500, and still feel like it was way too much sometimes.
Looking at the Silverado 1500, it's like you can't even get a decent one for less than $50k.
Upside is definitely the resale value, especially on diesel models (except the ecodiesel RAM).
Same thing happens to me on a car that's been left standing long enough to build up a nice layer of oxidization, what I would recommend doing is breaking in both the pads and rotors, find yourself a long quiet road and do around 80kmh then slow down with a firm press of the pedal to around 10kmh, then accelerate back to 80 and repeat around 7 or 8 times, DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP at any point during this process.. anyway after around 4 or 5 stops you may notice smoke coming from your wheels, that's normal, don't be alarmed and continue to the 7 or 8 brakes, when you are done, drive the car around normally for around 15 minutes to let the pads and rotors cool, try your best not to come to a complete stop still during this time.
7-8 times is just a guide though, basically you want to keep going until you feel the brakes fading and stopping power starts to deminish noticably, at that point ease off and go for a cruise to cool it all down.
What it'll do is burn off any contamination or uneven contact on your pads and rotors and transfer a thin layer of pad material to the face of the rotor, after you're done you should notice a faint tint of blue on the rotor (this is a good thing).
It should eliminate the squeeking, but as an added bonus, when rotors have a coating of pad material they brake noticeably better too.
Let it cool afterwards and take it for a drive, if the car squeeks less but still squeeks do it again and see if it improves any further, it will eventually go. If after this process the squeeks is exactly the same try once more and if it still doesn't improve the squeeks potentially not from your brakes. Normally I would suggest warped rotor, rusted slide pins or stuck pads but seeing as though they're new rotors, they've been machined , new pads and new hardware, that really should not be the case.
Also to be clear, the reason you want to avoid coming to a complete stop during the braking process is because while the pads and rotors are extremely hot, coming to a full stop can leave a pad impression on the rotor, which will compromise pad contact for future use and possibly introduce running noise too.
It's the same reason I've always recommended to friends when going to track days to save their last lap for just cruising and letting everything cool down, if your last lab is just tearing ass around and you pull straight into the paddock and stop, you're messing up your brake system.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Brake squeaking is caused by vibrations, usually between the shim and the pad. Shims are these little metal plates that sit behind the pad - thin little pieces of metal. Did your set of pads come with new shims? Were they greased up with an anti-squeal application?
killertofu
Member
Would this still be an issue if I've been driving it for three months?
No idea. I would assume they would've added that? Or the second mechanic would've known that...
Had to drive into town tonight, work is closed tomorrow duue to flooding (massive rains melting feet of snow), and i took the opportunity to throw the car around a bit in the wet. Just wanted to say "god damn i love my car!". Its got enough guts to scare the shit out of you from time to time, but the awd is good enough that it just grips when you trust it. Such a blast teetering between terror and control. I really need to get into tracking this so i can push it with a purpose rather than just for a stupid adrenaline dump of chaotic slides and donuts.
Pointless post really, but if i cant post this here where can i?
Pointless post really, but if i cant post this here where can i?
Hmm, normally it would have gone on it's own by then, how often has it been driven in those 3 months?, and do you drive it hard?
SliChillax
Member
My brakes also squeak sometimes, only when going slow though. When I'm parking or moving inch by inch in traffic they squeak like 50% of the time. I did put new pads in July but didn't do the proper break in as I wasn't aware that there was a procedure.
brake conditioning I described earlier should help with it, assuming its just pad rub and not a mechanical reason (vibration, lack of grease, brake dust build up around the pad preventing clean movement, pitted/rusty armature pin etc), no harm in trying at the very least.
If it persists then take out the pads (note which side theyre from so they go back in the same way), and take a mild wire brush and brush out all the crap in the brake pad slots, apply some brake grease to where the pad tabs slide, and apply a thin layer on both sides of the metal shim between caliper pot and pad, should be quiet as a mouse after you are done.
If you feel pulsation or abnormal vibration in the brake pedal when stopping, or the car pulls to a particular side, or there is a rhythmic grind when applying the brake, then you likely have either deposit buildup on a portion of the rotor (eg, when cars been standing for some time and rusted everywhere but where the caliper covers), or if it's quite significant, a warped rotor.
If it's slotted/drilled you can still get them machined but you'll have to ask super nicely because most machining shops will default to claiming you cant machine slotted/drilled , mainly because to do it without ruining the bit you have to go much slower, and most shops wont consider it worth their time - if its just a solid rotor then machining is easy/cheap.
really though, most brake noise is down to a part being worn, not properly greased/installed, or oxidization of the rotor surface.
killertofu
Member
I drive it every day. And, I guess? Harder than my old CRV.
SliChillax
Member
That's very helpful, thanks.
hm, it's difficult to say, after everything you've tried and the mileage you've put on it since putting the new pads and rotors on, it should have found its natural seating for the pads by now, still worth doing the brake break-in as i suggested though, but if that doesnt help at all, you'll need to think about inspecting the brakes themselves, i would recommend doing this yourself and insuring they actually did the install properly, theres plenty of videos on youtube that'll get you through it easily, and you wont have to risk being reamed by a greedy garage in future.
Not saying it's definitely the case, but wear parts like filters, pads, rotors, etc are super common items for garages to claim need doing even if they don't.
Anyway back to your issue, give it a shot, if it improves it then awesome, if not we'll go through stuff in more detail and try and pinpoint the culprit
Actually, thinking about it, do you know which brand pads were used for the replacement?, on my old Celica GT4 CS when I used EBC yellowstuff pads, it would squeal like hell no matter how much i tried breaking them in and adjusting stuff. could just be the pad compound? harder compounds (eg, EBC reds) can take up to 1000 miles of driving to break in
Yup. Being plagued by brake squeal, will try the break in.
No, no, this is a great post. Thumbs up, I approve!
Futaba is spot on with the brake bedding procedure; Stop Tech has almost the same process on their website which I followed when I put in new pads: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in
I know how you feel. The toughest part for me is finding an empty area to hoon around in since it's rare to have a purely open parking lot around here.
I had almost the same issue and ended up taking out the pads to inspect them. Turns out the grease that was used with them had solidified into a gel causing the pads to stick to the caliper pistons. So I cleaned that crap off and put a on thin layer of Permatex brake lube and viola the brake squeal has been gone since.
I know how you feel. The toughest part for me is finding an empty area to hoon around in since it's rare to have a purely open parking lot around here.
I had almost the same issue and ended up taking out the pads to inspect them. Turns out the grease that was used with them had solidified into a gel causing the pads to stick to the caliper pistons. So I cleaned that crap off and put a on thin layer of Permatex brake lube and viola the brake squeal has been gone since.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
This. Anti-squeal turns to this shitty, gummy glue and all it does is prevent appropriate motion of the pads (hopefully) to prevent squeal. The best thing to do is to well lubricate the back of the pads and all retaining hardware with brake lube. This is what I've done with all of my brakes and I never ever have squealing. The one time I used anti-squeal was on a friend's car because he wanted to use it, and it ended up squealing within a few weeks.
Edit: It can also fuck up dust boots on calipers. When I was pulling the old pads off my 911 I could tell someone used anti-squeal as half of the dust boots came off with the pads.
I was not happy about that.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Okay... round two...
I saw that Jalopnik story yesterday about cheap Dodge Challenger Hellcats. Eh, no big deal, I've been keeping up on the 2016 closeout prices, and have seen a small handful under $60K - but that's still outside my budget.
But I went down the rabbit hole, and it seems the dealers are now sometimes, in rare cases, offering strong lease deals.
After some back and forth over email, I've got someone at a nearby dealer to offer a 2016 fully loaded Hellcat, brand new, black on brown,for a lease option that seems VERY good.
I have an appointment tomorrow to go over paperwork and a test drive - haven't driven a manual in ~5 years, so a bit worried about looking like an IDIOT as I pull out. But other than that, really excited and hope it all comes together. Not holding my breath... but I'm hopeful...
I saw that Jalopnik story yesterday about cheap Dodge Challenger Hellcats. Eh, no big deal, I've been keeping up on the 2016 closeout prices, and have seen a small handful under $60K - but that's still outside my budget.
But I went down the rabbit hole, and it seems the dealers are now sometimes, in rare cases, offering strong lease deals.
After some back and forth over email, I've got someone at a nearby dealer to offer a 2016 fully loaded Hellcat, brand new, black on brown,for a lease option that seems VERY good.
I have an appointment tomorrow to go over paperwork and a test drive - haven't driven a manual in ~5 years, so a bit worried about looking like an IDIOT as I pull out. But other than that, really excited and hope it all comes together. Not holding my breath... but I'm hopeful...
Into the Light
Banned
today marks the end of my GT86-age. was fun and awesome
Looks so shiny still. Its hard to give up that handling, and ride height. I wish you happiness.
SliChillax
Member
Man... cheapest Hellcat I could find in Europe right now is a 2015 model with 7k miles and it costs 74,000 euros
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Do it.
Also, driving a car with THAT much power is virtually impossible to stall. Easing off the clutch will basically feel like letting off the brake on any automatic. It'll just start rolling forward, especially with that kind of torque. It'll probably surprise you.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
There was a short while when the Hellcats were hard to find and new, and so dealers were marking them up higher and higher as time went on. The machine is a beast at $60K... but at $80K+, it's a lot less enticing. I honestly though, for a bit, I had lost my chance at ever owning one in the immediate future.
***
As an aside - any tips for someone coming back to a stick for the first time in half a decade? I learned at 13 in my dad's new Corvette (at the time), and then didn't drive another manual until I was ~18/19 - my then-gf's Sentra Spec-V. Haven't touched another since I broke up with her a long time ago.
I imagine getting behind 707 HP is going to be a nightmare. I plan to push in the clutch and row through the gears a few times. Drop in neutral. Start car with brake and clutch engaged. Then just try to find the engagement point on the clutch without using the accelerator a few times. Once I get used to that engagement point, try feathering the gas pedal and hope for the best. That's how I learned a long time ago. Any new assist-features I should be aware of, or fundamental differences in a car with this much torque?
EDIT: Haha - awesome, thank you, Alpha Snake. That's good to know. It's what I was hoping to hear. I still think I'll struggle getting in the groove for the first several miles/lights. I anticipate a lot of jerky shifts.
Grats on the FiST! That thing is a hoot.today marks the end of my GT86-age. was fun and awesome
Awesome!
Hope it works out, that's pretty much the dream car for you.
Ya, to echo Alpha, when I got into my M5, I was really worried as I hadn't driven stick consistently since like 2010. All that torque down low makes it super easy.
Just wear thinnish flexible shoes for a bit while you get the hang of things. It's like riding a bike.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
I remember my 370Z literally having nothing from the clutch (high revving = very low idle torque). It crept up soooooooo slowly and the catch point was probably thinner than paper, it was unbelievably silly and on/off. But yet, I felt like a boss mastering something that difficult, because every other MT after that felt like it required no effort, at all.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Awesome, thank you for the confidence boost and the good wishes, guys. It's weird how after a few years, I'm sitting here just trying to remember if I even remember the motions at all. I'm sure it'll come back to me pretty quick.
Talked to the wife some more tonight, and she's 100% on board. We set a monthly budget a while back, and so long as we keep it under that, she's all-in.
Called the insurance, too - and for the same coverage (pretty much every option with a low deductible), the cost only jumps from $72/month to $103/month. Thought that was very reasonable.
Anyway, here's hoping!
Talked to the wife some more tonight, and she's 100% on board. We set a monthly budget a while back, and so long as we keep it under that, she's all-in.
Called the insurance, too - and for the same coverage (pretty much every option with a low deductible), the cost only jumps from $72/month to $103/month. Thought that was very reasonable.
Anyway, here's hoping!
LOL. I stalled the fuck out of my Hellcat considering it was my first manual ever.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Did you just buy it and hope for the best on your way home?
Honda Element? Rally Quattro 80? Lancia Stratos? Mitsubishi van?
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Well that explains why hahaha
Evo x
I knew it was going to be a "Challenge". I had planned on buying something cheap to learn but the deal just fell into my lap at a time when most dealers were trying to rape their customers. It had every option I wanted and I wanted a manual. Just went for it. Have had zero issues with any manual I've driven since.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Awesome, thanks!
I think I'm just making a mountain out of a molehill since I don't want to look stupid pulling out of the dealer and onto the 4 mile drive to my house. I have no worries about getting into the groove after ~30 minutes.
Ask what the 3rd pedal is for. Then their expectations will be way worse than stalling it once or twice.
So I'm sat in a parking area half way up a mountain, cars stripped out to hell due to being in the middle of modifications (no interior except for driver's seat etc) got semi slicks on because of last night's Tōge and while I'm sat chilling with friends it starts snowing like a bastard, what are my chances of getting back down in snow in a stripped out, on-slicks, 380hp gt86?
Time to find out I guess.
[Edit] Made it and that was insanely fun.
Time to find out I guess.
[Edit] Made it and that was insanely fun.
Dr.Guru of Peru
played the long game
So I'm checking out Audi's webpage, and it looks like they're bringing the S5 Sportback to North America now? Not sure when this was announced, but my interest is piqued. I like the look, but not so sure about removing the DCT and the switch to a turbo charger:
https://www.audiusa.com/models/audi-s5-sportback
SliChillax
Member
The ZF8 speed is a much better transmission. It's extremely reliable, smoother, has an extra gear for highway which means better fuel economy and its very fast. You'd have to drive the dct and 8 speed back to back to tell the difference in shift times and even then it would be hard to tell that the dct is faster.
SliChillax
Member
Good god Camaro ZL1's in Europe are over 95,000 euros, some of them even 100,000 jesus christ
Good job, Audi. I like it.
With the upcoming Panamera wagon launching soon'ish maybe it means that there's a market for upscale "shooting brake" cars after all. (That's my wish, anyway)
YuriLowell
Member
I am highly considering getting a C5 vette for my next daily driver.
Looks like I can squeeze 30mpg out of it.
Looks like I can squeeze 30mpg out of it.
SliChillax
Member
Matt Farrah is selling his, it's one of the best C5's that I've seen and he owned it since 1998.
YuriLowell
Member
Didn't he do that fixed headlight conversion?
Those rims look fantastic!
It already sold.