I'm getting the itch to brew again and I just got a new grain mill for Christmas that I want to break in. Unfortunately, I just filled the open space in my kegerator last week, so anything I brew is going to just sit in a spare keg conditioning for a while.
With those considerations in mind, looks like it's time for an imperial stout.
There seemed to be a lot more barrel aged things last year as well. I don't think that trend will last though because of the time needed to age the stuff.What's going to be this year's hyped beer style? I guess last year it was Gose and Session IPAs?
I'm with you on the last two, but shandies? Barf.shandys, berliners, and goses
oh my
Thank you. I know so many people that love shandies, but they make me wretch. I have only tried three or so, but that was enough.I'm with you on the last two, but shandies? Barf.
Check out what is sometimes referred to as the Narziss lager method (well detailed here). If you've got reliable temperature control, you can lager pretty quickly. Also, if you're doing it in a keg, you can probably even accelerate it a bit if you've got it on gas, since higher head pressures suppress ester production in yeast.I got a grain mill for Christmas and just picked up a sack of Avangard Pilsner Malt. I've made a few pilsners before that were ok, but want to go from OK to amazing. Time to practice!
Starter is ready and I want to try to go from grain to glass in 8 weeks. My previous pilsners I lagered till I thought they tasted good, but no reason why I shouldn't be able to make a 4.5% Pilsner with 1 month of lagering in a corny keg
I developed a soft spot for Peroni because it was the only beer widely available when I visited Italy last fall.I like peroni but i also drink:
Check out what is sometimes referred to as the Narziss lager method (well detailed here). If you've got reliable temperature control, you can lager pretty quickly. Also, if you're doing it in a keg, you can probably even accelerate it a bit if you've got it on gas, since higher head pressures suppress ester production in yeast.
Plenty of other uses for that malt, too. I've used near a whole sack of pilsner in the last year in Berliners and Belgians, myself.
If you're using an accelerated lager fermentation schedule, your yeast are done by the time you hit the lagering step. At that point you're basically just waiting for chill haze and other cold-coagulating proteins or polyphenols to drop out. My personal experience with lagers is a bit limited, but so long as you're below a temperature to form a haze, the precise number shouldn't matter too much.Thanks. I do use that procedure, as documented in Brewing Classic Styles (pitch below ferementation temp, let rise at 3/4 of the way through feremtation) . I've got a temperature controlled ferementation chamber, but it's also winter here in New England and my basement is at a consistent 48F.
I normally carb up *after* lagering, with the idea that it's easier to transfer from the lagering vessel while the liquid is flat. Should I be carbing up while lagering and then transfer the liquid while it's fizzy?
Also I'm not sure what the best lagering temperature is. I was lagering at 1C, but have now switched to 3C, as I believe that can be quicker (according to BCS), but that goes again the statement that colder is quicker on the above website.
Edit: I love belgiums and plan to brew at least some ales with this as the base malt.
What state are you in?Anyone have some sour recommendations? I was finally introduced to the style of beer in the past couple months and have enjoyed what I've tried, although I haven't had much so far. I'm in the northeast.
What state are you in?
What have you tried so far? Northeast's not a bad place to be, especially if you can get a hold of Allagash's sours
What sours have you tried and what did you like about them? There are some big differences between something like a Flanders Red and a typical American Wild.Anyone have some sour recommendations? I was finally introduced to the style of beer in the past couple months and have enjoyed what I've tried, although I haven't had much so far. I'm in the northeast.
What sours have you tried and what did you like about them? There are some big differences between something like a Flanders Red and a typical American Wild.
Irregardless, get a bottle of Petrus Aged Pale. It should be available pretty much anywhere and it's outstanding.
Look for this - http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/2467/33380/I've tried the Flander's red and American wild, i definitely preferred the red style more although I liked both.
CT NY border, you should be hitting up Deciccos in Brewster, Armonk, or Harrison... or Total Wine in Norwalk
I like peroni but i also drink:
Miller
Carlton draught/mid
And someone told me hansa pilsner is very good but i've never tried it
Excellent! All these recommendations will keep me occupied for a while!
I go to Decicco's in Brewster at least once a weekend. It's the best.
yeah my boy vin there is cool af, and works the bar a lot, also andrew is cool too he is a family member that owns the chain, if you already go to deciccos, you're well on your way, place is probably my favorite place to buy beer ever.
Also they usually have some sour on tap, and if you go on a saturday, definitely hit up OEC on the way back home, even if it's out of the way
Vinny is fucking awesome, always gives great recommendations, don't think I've met Andrew yet though.
Have you tried their magherita pizzas? Ridiculously good.
actually yes once, it's good stuff, but im mainly there to buy drinks, i live in New Haven so no need to travel for pizza![]()
Never thought I would see this here. Must be rough. Can you not get craft beers where you live?
I feel like I've heard sours called "this year's fad" for a few years now. Hopefully American brewers will do a better job with them instead of the hasty cash crab a lot of them seem to be. Breweries dipping their toes into the sour game tend to release disgusting Flanders Reds or insanely unbalanced lactic acid bombs (sup Upland) and just slap the term "lambic" or something on them. My hope is for more berliners/gose/sour saisons in six packs that are cheap and quick to produce and more funky and complex aged stuff for limited pricier releases. Plus more and more breweries are experimenting with spontaneous fermentation which can take years to pay off so hopefully Allagash/Jester King/New Glarus/RR/Casey are paving the way for some even more delicious beer in the future.
There's a very new brewery here in Seattle called Holy Mountain that is focusing on these kinds beers along with lagers. So incredibly psyched with everything I've had so far.
There's a very new brewery here in Seattle called Holy Mountain that is focusing on these kinds beers along with lagers. So incredibly psyched with everything I've had so far.
is this a Jodorowsky reference do you know?
Better drink that Beer Camp quick. Most of the beers in there are pretty hoppy
I continuously recirculate, myself, and I don't have too many issues, but my setup is probably different. I use a RIMS tube with a little ~10 GPM solar pump. I agitate the crap out of my mash by actually sinking the return head right into the grain. So it stays pretty suspended and never really has a chance to compact. I also stick a couple big handfuls of rice hulls in with every mash and line my tun with a voile bag and drain through a bottom-opening manifold, so I'm probably overkilling it with precautions against sticking.Brew day nightmare
New barley crusher
New pils variety
New sparge technique (using a pump)
Stuck sparge from hell with a pils smash. Got about 3 gal out and it stopped. Couldn't get it going quickly and by the time I decided to stir the mash and restart I had too much water in the tun and it was too thin.
I think it was a combination of two things.
Not waiting long enough for the grain bed to settle after mashing out.
Different crush (first home crush) and probably should have had rice hulls on hand.
The good news at $1 per pound for grain is I only wasted $10 today.
Any tips for sparging with a pump? I have the mash tun tap open full to prime the pump (chigger with steel head) and a output valve on slow flow. I only drew off 2 liters for vorloof, and that probably wasnt enough.
The wort was never crystal clear even after 3 gal so I suspect the grain bed never really settled right.
Once it's primed, it shouldn't matter too much where the pump is. Though, make sure you've got your pumphead mounted properly. The outlet should be in the highest position to properly purge the line. Also, check to make sure your cooler bulkhead is good and tight. I had a barely noticeable leak in mine that wasn't enough for me to bother with until I put a pump on it and it started sucking in bubbles.Stainless false bottom in a 10 gal cooler tun. I don't condition the grain and the mill gap is set to whatever it came with. The store I bought it from recommended leaving the gap at what it was set to. The crush looked pretty awesome with a good amount of nice sized husk.
First time using the pump and I used it for vorloof only.
I wonder if I also had problems with the pump location? I started it below the level of the tun to prime it but once flow started, I lifted the pump so it was level with tun. I was also seeing evidence of air getting into the inlet somewhere. Going to check and tighten all my hoses before using again.
Edit: hose clips were screwdriver tight but a box driver managed to get then a lot tighter, hope that will stop air problem.
Once it's primed, it shouldn't matter too much where the pump is. Though, make sure you've got your pumphead mounted properly. The outlet should be in the highest position to properly purge the line. Also, check to make sure your cooler bulkhead is good and tight. I had a barely noticeable leak in mine that wasn't enough for me to bother with until I put a pump on it and it started sucking in bubbles.
I can't imagine that's what's causing your sparge sticking issues, though. For next time, I'd probably just buy a half pound of rice hulls and throw them in there. It's the simplest and cheapest thing you can do.
Just to be clear, this is what I mean about positioning your pump head properly. Having the pump itself below your tun helps with priming and keeps it wet if you do get any air sucking in but shouldn't matter too much overall.Thanks. Getting Rice Hulls today, and will be more careful with my mash out and settling of grain bed. I had my pump flat, but will move it to keep the output at the highest point.
It's been a good learning experience, as it always is whenever you change process or equipment (or both at the same time).
Just to be clear, this is what I mean about positioning your pump head properly. Having the pump itself below your tun helps with priming and keeps it wet if you do get any air sucking in but shouldn't matter too much overall.
Good luck on your next try.