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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
Psychotext
Member
Couple of good days of riding, though I don't think I'll ever be returning to Coed Llandegla. For some reason I just don't enjoy the trails there.
jakonovski
Member
Went on a proper ride with the cyclocross bike, I think I'm seeing the light real bright now. It's great switching from asphalt to dirt road to trail, just exploring. I guess you could do that with a mountain bike too, but it doesn't quite have the panache for some reason.
Psychotext
Member
Yes, how will I ever get them to serve me a single origin non fat latte whilst I'm on a mountain bike? 
jakonovski
Member
I could've totally gone for a single origin non fat latte, but instead I had a disgusting energy bar in the backpack and some water.
edit: does it help if there was some muddy trails?
edit: does it help if there was some muddy trails?
GamingOblivion
Banned
Hello everyone!
I really want to get into cycling, but I don't have a road bike. I don't know really much about cycling at all. I want it to be my preferred way of traveling in my town and my way of getting into shape. Does anyone have recommendations for a cheaper starter road bike?
Thank y'all for your time.
I really want to get into cycling, but I don't have a road bike. I don't know really much about cycling at all. I want it to be my preferred way of traveling in my town and my way of getting into shape. Does anyone have recommendations for a cheaper starter road bike?
Thank y'all for your time.
Psychotext
Member
You had a backpack? What sort of mudroadie are you?
@GamingOblivion: I'm sure there will be someone along shortly to advise Might be useful to define cheap for you though.
AstroNut325
Member
I have not ridden a bicycle in 20 years. I never even tried a multi-speed/gear bike. Am I doomed?
Also, is it worth it to get a bike from a major outlet like REI or Sport Chalet? Are there any benefits of getting them from the major outlets? Service/repairs? Training? I have no clue how to operate a multi-speed/gear bike. HELP!
Also, is it worth it to get a bike from a major outlet like REI or Sport Chalet? Are there any benefits of getting them from the major outlets? Service/repairs? Training? I have no clue how to operate a multi-speed/gear bike. HELP!
Psychotext
Member
There's really not a lot that you need to know, modern gear systems are pretty much foolproof once they've been initially adjusted.
jakonovski
Member
That's exactly it. No rules man!
Go ask around in the local bike shops and test ride a few bikes to get a feel for your options. Also, where do you live? There's a gazillion different brands out there, many of them regional.
The 20 years is going to be a bigger challenge than the multi-speed.
Most single-speed bikes are fixed-gear, which means that you can't coast, and that you can brake by pushing back on the pedals. When switching to multi-speed, you can coast, and you'll have to use the brake levers to come to a stop. When people switch between the two types of bike for the first time, this usually takes maybe .5 to 3 seconds to figure out.
Shifting gears on a bike is extremely easy. All the shifters do is yank the chain left or right so that it skips to another cog. There's no clutching or anything, you just tap a paddle or move a lever or something to direct the chain onto a different gear.
The only caveat is that the chain can't skip around unless it's cycling on the gears, so you generally want to be moving the cranks forward during a shift. In other words, you want to shift to a low gear before coming to a stop, because starting again in a high gear is hard, and switching gears while stopped is also hard.
GamingOblivion
Banned
Thanks. I live in Washington, which is a big place for biking I think?
AstroNut325
Member
Perhaps it would be more prudent to get a used bike instead of a new one for practice purposes? Not trying to get into extreme mountain biking. Just want to take a weekend ride with my son. He's going to be 4 in April and I want to start going for a bike ride on the weekends with him.
jakonovski
Member
I'm from Finland, so I've no idea. But I'll make a suggestion because no one else seems to. I do know that brands like Fuji, Scott and Kona offer reasonably priced bikes in the US too. You're probably looking at 700-800 full price for a road bike with quality components. Right now you have a good chance of finding a sale I think.
Stuff like Fuji Sportif 2.3 or Kona Rove AL. They come with Shimano Claris or Sora gears so you get modern gear shifters, but are still very cheap to maintain.
edit: whatever you do, make sure the bike is the right size (ie. buy from a shop with competent salespeople). Don't take the wrong size even if it's the biggest discount in the world.
Christoff Yurievich
Member
What part of WA? Some spots are better than others. For example, I live in SW WA and almost all of my riding is done in the Portland area.
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/10/garmin-varia-radar-review.html
i am all about this despite it -- along with the varia smart light -- being quite awful looking.
i am all about this despite it -- along with the varia smart light -- being quite awful looking.
GamingOblivion
Banned
I just picked this SS fat tire up for cheap to play around with and get better exercise around the power line trails at the house.
I'm not sure about the fat tires yet, it rides about as comfortably as my 26 hardtail with cheap spring fork. It does feel much more stable though.
SS is awesome though, no gears to think about and it really motivates me to ride harder, slacking off on coasts can make the next hill a bitch. I did have an issue on a steep rooty climb at a trail, but I was already beat and just had to take a breather half way up.
I'm not sure about the fat tires yet, it rides about as comfortably as my 26 hardtail with cheap spring fork. It does feel much more stable though.
SS is awesome though, no gears to think about and it really motivates me to ride harder, slacking off on coasts can make the next hill a bitch. I did have an issue on a steep rooty climb at a trail, but I was already beat and just had to take a breather half way up.
Psychotext
Member
Single speed fat bike just seems nuts to me. They're a bastard on climbs at the best of times, let alone with only one gear. I guess you could go really low and then coast all the descents, but I don't know... I'd rather go at least 1x10 given how bombproof that setup is.
I'm in FL so it's flat here, and it's geared low right now, 32x22. I got this to try, and ideally it will be replaced with a 1x10, those just cost a lot still. The cheapest 1x10 conversion I could build came in more than this bike costs, plus it would have been on my 26er.
I really want to try a 27.5+ or 29+ with 1x10...
diablopath
Neo Member
I am a dumb person that has not had to do any maintenance on my bike by myself. That said, I have a question.
I had a little tumble the other day. Only noticeable damage was that it knocked my chain off of the cassette. I just put pulled it back over and went about getting my ass home.
I want to make sure it's on *the right* cog. How do I do this?
I had a little tumble the other day. Only noticeable damage was that it knocked my chain off of the cassette. I just put pulled it back over and went about getting my ass home.
I want to make sure it's on *the right* cog. How do I do this?
Darth Pinche
Member
The drivetrain will self correct. Just pedal around and shift a few times and it should be fine. You probably already did this on the ride home. If things are clicking or skipping though, you may need to adjust the derailleurs or check that the rear d/r hanger is not bent.
Psychotext
Member
Just working out the next stage of my training. By my reckoning I've got about 18 weeks of base training ahead of me...
...I think I'd better find some entertaining things to watch.
...I think I'd better find some entertaining things to watch.
opticalmace
Member
What's base training?
cycling at a moderate pace while watching movies
jakonovski
Member
Just put on those lined bib tights and head for the trails!
Psychotext
Member
Still ultra endurance. Events of at least 8 hours or longer.
Psychotext
Member
Hmm.... that first base session was a lot harder than I expected it to be. Was of the understanding it was generally lower heart rates. Need to investigate that further, don't want to be training incorrectly.
Psychotext
Member
I averaged about 80% max HR, so definitely need to look at roughly where I should be. They have a HR based version of the workout too, so I should be able to see from that.
Edit - Interestingly, one person commented on their ride "Harder than I thought it would be for base mileage." and another "Easy, 120bpm all the way". I can only assume that the latter person hasn't got their FTP right.
Edit 2 - Almost certainly. They've done a total of 6 hours on the trainer. I'm at 12.5 days. lol
Edit - Interestingly, one person commented on their ride "Harder than I thought it would be for base mileage." and another "Easy, 120bpm all the way". I can only assume that the latter person hasn't got their FTP right.
Edit 2 - Almost certainly. They've done a total of 6 hours on the trainer. I'm at 12.5 days. lol
Deciding at 2:00AM to get up at 6:30AM to start a century ride that integrates a 50-mile group ride in the middle? Awesome idea, sort of. Wearing summer clothes despite riding through dense fog on a chilly fall morning? Probably the worst idea ever, but it's got some Rule 5 and Rule 9 going for it.
Integrating 3 lengthy cafe stops into a century ride? NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE
NOPE
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
nope
.
Integrating 3 lengthy cafe stops into a century ride? NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE NOPE
NOPE
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
nope
.
Psychotext
Member
Stops are for the weak. Well, unless you're going for like 8 hours, in which case, go for it.
I'm wrapping up nice and warm today. Have my long sleeve top on for the first time this year.
I'm wrapping up nice and warm today. Have my long sleeve top on for the first time this year.
jakonovski
Member
I caught a cold and can't ride.
And I just got this rad new light to use in the dark. 1200 lumens for 2 hours it claims, should be enough for the local trails.
Currently 9h 20min of daylight and going down, until 5h 49min on winter solstice.
And I just got this rad new light to use in the dark. 1200 lumens for 2 hours it claims, should be enough for the local trails.
Currently 9h 20min of daylight and going down, until 5h 49min on winter solstice.
Darth Pinche
Member
No, do more mountain biking! I ride year round, even in the rain. On a trail you're usually ina forest anyways and relatively dry.
I take it the Procaliber is on closeout? I thought they were only 29" wheels. You are comparing a racing hardtail to a trail full suspension bike so there is a good difference in personality. If you're riding smoother trails I think the Procaliber is hard to beat. If you want a trail bike a Giant Trance 2 for a few hundred more is a much better bike. Or for $100 more a Giant Anthem 2 gets you better fork and crank.
Correct. And the 15.5 frame for Procaliber has 27.5 wheels. The trails I'll be riding aren't the smoothest - I'm leaning towards the EX 7. Thanks for the info
jakonovski
Member
The bikes are quite different. Procaliber is a light carbon frame XC race hardtail, Fuel EX is an aluminium full suspension all mountain bike. There's like a 3-4kg weight difference between the two and a totally different ride feel. You really need to test ride them both.
edit: for context, I have a lower end Trek hardtail of pretty much the same geometry as the Procaliber, and a Scott all mountain bike much like the Fuel EX. It's really like night and day, you won't be able to know which one you prefer without some time on bike. They'll both go over terrain far beyond your capabilties.
yeah, i'm in the midst of base training too. first time with a power meter, tho and i'm all confused on whether or not to conform to my power zones or hr zones during the first base phase. first session on the trainer my HR was in z2-z3 while my power was in z1. now, my HR tends to run a little high because of the sheer amount of drugs I'm on, but it would seem counterproductive if my HR is running high during base sessions.
i did some searching and friel and the folks at Trainer Road said that during your first base session, you should really only concern yourself with HR zones and ignore power. so that's what i'm doing. i also sent the question into TR so I hope they can discuss more definitively in their next podcast. i'll retest FTP after base 1 and then use power data to gauge efforts from then on, however.
Awesome thanks for the info!
jakonovski
Member
One more thing that might influence your decision: carbon frames can be fragile if you bash them against rocks. Deep dents and scratches can potentially weaken the carbon structure, and manufacturers recommend you replace the frame if that happens. Some have a crash replacement program for a good discount, but it's still an expensive thing. Aluminium on the other hand is more tolerant of abuse and cheaper to replace, if not quite as posh.
Psychotext
Member
I think this is my fourth base session (Actually, more than that I guess, I've done three entire training plans from start to finish). Don't ever recall getting to such high heart rates previously.
I can handle the workouts, but yeah, still not entirely sure if it's doing me as much good as it should be.
i've always assumed you only focus on your heart rate during base building. afterall, it is all about building your aerobic base.
on the topic of your hr zones and power zones not agreeing, i came across this on my research. i too was curious since this will be the first season i'll be training with a power meter on my new smart trainer
http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/12/why-dont-my-power-and-heart-rate-zones-agree.html
i think you're on the right course
just stick with it through the next 12 weeks and you're guaranteed to see your ceiling rise.
Psychotext
Member
I've actually got 16 weeks of it due, but yeah, I guess I don't really have much choice on it one way or another. Think I might take the next FTP test a little easier though, nearly threw up by the end of the last one, and all I could taste was blood.
Unrelated... no ride for me this weekend.
Nephew's run out of brake pads, and money to buy them, and I've got a broken spoke that I've not had time to fix.
Unrelated... no ride for me this weekend.
Nephew's run out of brake pads, and money to buy them, and I've got a broken spoke that I've not had time to fix.
this will probably be my first true base session following the plan to a tee and solely going off HR only. my first base phase in summer '14 was based on exertion and i'm a terrible judge of that. and thinking my aerobic fitness was decent (lolz) i jumped into sweet spot base on trainer road in winter '15 using virtual power. excited to see what a true base phase can yield.
and maybe you're a bit fatigued? i think you said youre gonna be taking the weekend off, maybe add a few extra days?
yeah, that was my thinking too. just three weeks ago i remember hopping on the trainer and trying to keep my hr in zone 1 while doing the base 1 workout and thinking, this can't be an aerobic workout....
from your link, here's friel himself:
so HR it is for initial base phase. i guess its an individual choice on what constitutes an early base period, but i'll probably extend it a few weeks since going in to this base phase i knew my aerobic engine was kinda, uh, lacking. and the initial base training with power only confirmed it. time to fire up nextflix for next few weeks i guess...
btw, what smart trainer did you get? i'm salivating over the Kickr but also know there's some good alternatives, such as tacx's neo. these things, man. pricy!
Psychotext
Member
Stressed more than anything, which is affecting my sleep a bit. Trying to buy a house.
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