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Bicycle age

P

Psychotext

Member
Mission complete. 22 hours and 10 mins or so. Don't feel quite as bad as I thought I might, though I was feeling pretty sick towards the end.

Have pulled or torn the calf muscle in my right leg, but its easing up with the pain killers.

Going to sit here in a daze and try to recover. Will stick the ride online some time later for people to see.
 
M

Mascot

Member
Psychotext said:
Mission complete. 22 hours and 10 mins or so. Don't feel quite as bad as I thought I might, though I was feeling pretty sick towards the end.

Have pulled or torn the calf muscle in my right leg, but its easing up with the pain killers.

Going to sit here in a daze and try to recover. Will stick the ride online some time later for people to see.
Click to expand...

Well done mate! I'm heading out soon for a blast around the woods, but I'm planning on having fun... :p
 
Gray Matter

Gray Matter

Member
Going on what probably will be my last ride of the year, it's getting too cold out now to fully enjoy riding every weekend.

Kudos to the ones who ride during the winter, I for one cannot.
 
T

TarpitCarnivore

Member
Gray Matter said:
Going on what probably will be my last ride of the year, it's getting too cold out now to fully enjoy riding every weekend.

Kudos to the ones who ride during the winter, I for one cannot.
Click to expand...

Layers!

For real though it took me three years of buying stuff to get to a point of being able to handle 20-30. Just slowly buy some stuff and each year try to go a little cooler.

Right now my clothing stable is three glove types, merino base, wind vest, wind jacket, merino arm and leg warmers, three types of cycling caps, three types of booties, leg tights and under armor tops.
 
W

wild wild rice

Member
I could use some advice about winter storage. I keep my bike in the basement and I know I need to keep the tires off the concrete floor for the winter. Problem is I can't really put any hooks up. What are my options? Can I put cardboard or some other material under the tires?
 
J

jakonovski

Member
Man it's getting cold here. Freezing in the mornings last week, gotta motivate myself so I don't start driving to work too much.

In the daytime it's really annoying, every clothing combo seems to be too hot or too cold.
 
T

thomaser

Member
Psychotext said:
Oh... no, apparently I was 21hrs 13 mins. Did myself out of an hour. lol
Click to expand...

How did your Garmin Edge 1000 hold up? It obviously kept going the whole time, but did you do something specific to conserve energy? I would be afraid of running out of battery on such a long ride.
 
J

Joe

Member
I bought a bike in a box/unassembled, a stand, tools, grease, and lube.

I knew 0% about bikes going into this and instead of buying something assembled and tuned at the LBS I wanted to learn how everything works myself.

Assembly was pretty easy, the hardest part was realizing the shifters and levers were on backwards due to transporting.

Brake adjustments was so-so. I didn't know what I was doing but I could learn from YouTube videos. But I ended up getting them where they are supposed to be.

Rear and front derailleur adjustments. Holy shit. It took me about 7-8 hours total. Figuring how the adjustment screws and cable tension worked and how they worked together was the hard part and took the bulk of the time. Fine tuning everything and ironing out the kinks took probably close to 2 hours. I get easily confused when the high gear is the the gear with most resistance, or how loosening a barrel creates more tension. It's like mechanical accounting and I hate accounting. I ended up stripping 1 of the adjustment screws, I hope that's easily replaceable. Gears were a mess out of the box but they shift really, really good now.

Overall, it took me an obscene and embarrassing amount of time but I learned a lot and I'm glad I did it. If I had to do it over again it would take me a fraction of the time, and I would actually know how it's all working and what I'm doing. I can do my own simple tune-ups now.
 
cjp

cjp

Junior Member
Thoughts on this?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...a&categoryId=165710&langId=-1&catalogId=10151

Bottom Bracket: FSA Square Taper - 68mm Shell
Cassette/Freewheel: Shimano HG50 - 11-30t
Chain: KMC Z72
Chainset: FSA Tempo Compact 50/34t - 170mm(S) 175mm(M,L,XL)
Frame: 7005 Triple Butted Alloy with Smooth Welds
Front Brake: Tektro Lyra Mechanical Disc Brakes - 160mm Rotor
Front Hub: 9mm QR - 32 Hole
Front Mech: Shimano Claris - 2 Speed
Gear Shifters: Shimano Claris
Geometry: Cyclocross - Semi Compact
Grips: Gel Bar Tape - Black
Handlebars: 13 RS 400mm(S) 420mm(M,L) 440mm (XL) - 31.8
Headset: FSA Orbit No.10P - 1-1/8" - Semi-Integrated
Pedals: N/A
Rear Brake: Tektro Lyra Mechanical Disc Brakes - 160mm Rotor
Rear Hub: 9mm QR - 32 Hole
Rear Mech: Shimano Claris - 8 Speed - Medium Cage
Rims: 13 RS Alloy Double Wall - 32 Hole
Saddle: 13 RS - Chromoly Rails
Seatpost: 13 RS Alloy - 27.2mm - 350mm with offset
Stem: 13 RS 90mm(S) 100mm(M) 110mm(L) 120mm(XL) - 31.8 with +/-7 degree rise
Type: Cyclocross Bikes
Tyre Size: 700 x 35c
Tyres: Vittoria Adventure Trail II
 
J

jakonovski

Member
Looks like a perfectly good bike. The components are pretty much the exact same as Kona Rove Al, which I have ridden and had no complaints about.
 
cjp

cjp

Junior Member
jakonovski said:
Looks like a perfectly good bike. The components are pretty much the exact same as Kona Rove Al, which I have ridden and had no complaints about.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I've been to so many bike shops recently and this is the first one that's really stood out to me that hasnt been priced way out of my budget.

I also like the fact that there's two sets of brake levers so that your hands can reach them from any position.
 
T

TarpitCarnivore

Member
Attempt at mountain biking part 2 was a much better success. Riding a Kona Honzo gave me a shit ton more confidence so I'm sure that help. Still learning how to take corners better as well as steeper climbs. I keep forgetting that I need to sometimes rock as I'm climbing. All three of my falls today were a result of ascents with slick roots, loose dirt and quick pitch.
 
Gray Matter

Gray Matter

Member
Continuing about cold weather riding:

I don't think I can do it. Today's ride was a bit chilly in the beginning, granted I wasn't wearing anything made for cold weather riding, only thing I did different was wear a layer underneath my long sleeved jersey. That was good, but I hate the feeling of wearing multiple layers, especially when on my bike.
 
T

TarpitCarnivore

Member
Gray Matter said:
Continuing about cold weather riding:

I don't think I can do it. Today's ride was a bit chilly in the beginning, granted I wasn't wearing anything made for cold weather riding, only thing I did different was wear a layer underneath my long sleeved jersey. That was good, but I hate the feeling of wearing multiple layers, especially when on my bike.
Click to expand...

To get through October and into November look to full finger gloves, a wind jacket with vents, toe covers and a base layer shirt. That should keep you comfortable into the low 50s as long as the sun is out.
 
P

Psychotext

Member
thomaser said:
How did your Garmin Edge 1000 hold up? It obviously kept going the whole time, but did you do something specific to conserve energy? I would be afraid of running out of battery on such a long ride.
Click to expand...

Had to fully charge it twice on the ride (battery pack). No way it would have lasted otherwise.

My backup GPS in my bag (Etrex 30) was at 2/3 bars of battery power 8 hours after the finish. lol
 
T

t-ramp

Member
Utilized a fairly strong west wind today to snag a KOM on Strava. I did 27.8mph over 1.6 miles and only managed 11.7mph going the opposite direction.

Speaking of cold weather riding, I did almost no riding last winter. I did buy a balaclava that I've worn only once, and I'll probably pick up some long cycling pants at some point, so maybe I'll have the gear I need to keep me from freezing. Although I've been awfully lazy recently even when the weather has been nice, so I doubt I'll actually put in decent mileage when the cold hits. Eh.
 
P

Psychotext

Member
That's going to be the key for me this winter, not just doing the trainer time but actually getting out for the technical mileage too. It's too easy to let myself off the hook and then I end up being crap on tough ground for the first half of the year.
 
T

teepo

Member
i highly advocate riding on a singlespeed/fixie during the colder months. the slower pace is perfect, it helps build strength, possibly easier to control and the salt/snow wont eat away at your cables and derailleurs.
 
P

Psychotext

Member
Just on a general note, I can heartily recommend going through the TrainerRoad plan process. Last time around I did sweet spot base, followed by sustained power build, followed by cross country marathon. It was brutal at times, but there's no way in hell I'd have been able to get through the event without the fitness / pain tolerance levels that gave me.

This time I'll be going for three stages of traditional base, sustained power build and cross country marathon. Obviously you can pick your build and speciality phases to match what you do. They have plans for road racing, CX, triathlon, centuries, downhill MTB and plenty more.

/not on commission
 
T

TarpitCarnivore

Member
Psychotext said:
Just on a general note, I can heartily recommend going through the TrainerRoad plan process. Last time around I did sweet spot base, followed by sustained power build, followed by cross country marathon. It was brutal at times, but there's no way in hell I'd have been able to get through the event without the fitness / pain tolerance levels that gave me.

This time I'll be going for three stages of traditional base, sustained power build and cross country marathon. Obviously you can pick your build and speciality phases to match what you do. They have plans for road racing, CX, triathlon, centuries, downhill MTB and plenty more.

/not on commission
Click to expand...

Just did my FTP this morning. I didn't following the plans to a T last year, but they were immensely helpful going into March/April. Probably will do a base program for november-december and then something for Jan-Feb. I want to be outside again by March, but we'll see.
 
P

Psychotext

Member
I tend to do them all year round, though I always replace one or two sessions a week with a real ride where possible.

Edit - Just noticed that for the first time ever last week I was top of the GAF Strava group for distance, climbing and longest ride. That'll be the first and last times that a mountain biker ever does that! lol
 
W

Wax Free Vanilla

Member
I thought there was only one type of spoke until I came to replace one this morning and got confronted by this slottage shit:

spokei0s83.jpg


What's the idea behind mixing them?
 
C

Christoff Yurievich

Member
teepo said:
i highly advocate riding on a singlespeed/fixie during the colder months. the slower pace is perfect, it helps build strength, possibly easier to control and the salt/snow wont eat away at your cables and derailleurs.
Click to expand...

I would love to but there's two hills on my commute - both ways, no less - that drove my knees crazy for the short time I had one. It wasn't bad for out and abouts but real commuting was hard.

Also they don't salt here so that's not a problem. There's just a ton of ash from Mt. St. Helens around still so that eats your rims like crazy.

Congrats Psychotext on finishing your ride. I happened to click on the link right when you were resting at one point because the icon didn't move and I watched it for about 15 minutes. I was about to get worried when you started moving again.
 
P

Psychotext

Member
Probably one of my two shop stops. Other than that I didn't really stop. I tend to find if I stop for too long I'll never get started again.

Related, I found out I finished in the top 10 times. Had no idea I had done so well, and I reckon that I could have definitely got top 5. Always next year... lol
 
enoki

enoki

Member
12003188_836864376434684_4663151863706902955_n.jpg


A month ago I finally invested on my first real bike since childhood.. I was riding a rusted Roadmaster for a couple of weeks before this and it's been like switching from riding a sack of rocks to riding butter.

Location is Stones River National Battlefield in Murfreesboro.
 
Y

Yaboosh

Super Sleuth
Contralto said:
Could you tell me why? I'm unfortunately starting from the very bottom of experience.


Correct, it's a Liv bike by Giant.
Click to expand...


For pedaling you want the seat high enough so that when the pedal is at its lowest your knee will only be slightly bent.

With how you seat is relative to the handlebars, it looks really low, which can be good for descents but pedaling becomes way harder.
 
P

Psychotext

Member
dookeh said:
Not slack--female XC.
Click to expand...
So I'm assuming a much shorter top tube? Still looks like a slack head angle though, but I'm guessing that's an optical illusion.

Yaboosh said:
With how you seat is relative to the handlebars, it looks really low, which can be good for descents but pedaling becomes way harder.
Click to expand...

Takes time and confidence though. I run my seat at its limit for XC now, whereas in the past I'd have to have it at least an inch off when it got bumpy. My nephew has to drop his as soon as the ground starts to go downwards. Some people never go for the proper height as they don't like not being able to touch the ground (the way many people are taught to adjust their seat as kids).
 
enoki

enoki

Member
Yaboosh said:
For pedaling you want the seat high enough so that when the pedal is at its lowest your knee will only be slightly bent.

With how you seat is relative to the handlebars, it looks really low, which can be good for descents but pedaling becomes way harder.
Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense, thanks! I've noticed my knees do rise high and pop a lot early on in my rides.

For reference, I am light and have a small frame. I thought this bike might be a little large for me because I had very little standover height even with the seat at it's lowest, but knowing that touching the ground doesn't equate to a good fit is a little relieving.
 
D

Darth Pinche

Member
Yes, as stated, it is more efficient and safer for your knees with more extension. Just experiment. I have found that i like a very tall seat, almost to the limit of the seatpost extension.
 
C

Christoff Yurievich

Member
One (of several) rules of thumb for the seat height is it should be even with your hip bone.

AdjustSeattoHip.jpeg


Which reminds me: I was commuting home yesterday behind someone who thought a BMX bike was adequate for his purposes. His poor knees were pumping up and down like pistons. It was both hilarious and sad at the same time.

And then he turned into the road without looking and was very nearly pancaked. Ugh.
 
D

Darth Pinche

Member
The one that I like is to raise the seat, pedal around and while having the crank arm in line with the seat tube, placing your heel on the pedal. When your at a height that your knee is locked and just resting on the pedal, then your knee will have just the right amount of bend when in a normal pedaling position (ball of foot in the center of the pedal)
This of course is a little old way that does not account for the odd seat angles we have nowawdays of full suspensions, but for a hardtail mountain bike, it still pretty good.
 
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