a cyclocross bike is a wise choice.
FWIW, I almost never have my hands on the top of the bars on my road bike. It feels much less controlled than other positions, and I've never wished for brakes there.According to people online it is supposed to be more of a "hybrid" than the regular hybdrids, that is capable of more. The reason I'm not completely sure is the road sitting position when using it mostly in town for commuting.
I also thought all CX bikes had two sets of brakes (in the middle of the handles as well), but I have not seen any bike come this way when looking at them online ( at least not in my price range I guess). Is it hard to add such brakes if the standard brakes are hydraulic disc brakes?
Update: Ended up ordering this bike: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzmXfLweFIU
FWIW, I almost never have my hands on the top of the bars on my road bike. It feels much less controlled than other positions, and I've never wished for brakes there.
a cyclocross bike is a wise choice.
If you are new to biking then your arse will hurt until you battle-harden it over several rides. It's bruising, nothing more. I get the same if I've been off the bike for a few months. A different saddle won't necessarily help.
The 2nd set of brake levers only work with cables not hydraulic lines.I'm not used to road bikes though, never used them, so I was hoping for being able to switch as I felt comfortable between the two styles to ensure I felt safe all the time
For me it's the worst of both worlds- the uncomfortable and unstable riding position of a road bike and the heavy tire drag of an mtb without the ability to properly use your body. But I have a really severe negative reaction to road bike position and geometry.
The 2nd set of brake levers only work with cables not hydraulic lines.
I've never heard of that brand before.
I really hope I won't feel like that :x As I said never tried a road bike before so might regret not going for the hybrid.
Oh so I limited myself by opting for the model with the more expensive breaks? :x
You HAVE to test ride some bikes man, not only is it subjective as hell, your arm atm and torso and leg proportions will have an impact on what makes sense.
The only way for the Yeti to be 2-3lbs lighter is from the build kit. The SC CC frames should be really close in weight. The 429 is a heavier frame, no question there.
The Bronson is really close to the 5010 so something must have been up with the suspension or tire pressure set up to feel so different.
I like the 429 for the trails around me in So Cal. Fast fire road type trails with rough rocky sections and tight switch backs all with loose over hardback dirt.
The Intense Spider 275C is a great bike to try if you can find one.
First tubeless ride with the full susser, with a brand new High Roller II as front tyre. The grip was simply nuts, I ended up feeling so adventurous I almost scared myself.
Haha yes it will. Get a medium sized male serfas gel seat..No need for a racing seat unless you plan on racing.
Haha? What's so funny? The saddle isn't necessarily the problem. I don't know how you can say otherwise with absolute conviction. Have you inspected said saddle and said arse sitting on it?
For me it's the worst of both worlds- the uncomfortable and unstable riding position of a road bike and the heavy tire drag of an mtb without the ability to properly use your body. But I have a really severe negative reaction to road bike position and geometry.
Haha? What's so funny? The saddle isn't necessarily the problem. I don't know how you can say otherwise with absolute conviction. Have you inspected said saddle and said arse sitting on it?
Rather than get sucked into a pointless internet squabble, here's a photo of some bluebells. It was fucking gorgeous in the woods today, and that I can say with absolute conviction.]
Rather than get sucked into a pointless internet squabble, here's a photo of some bluebells. It was fucking gorgeous in the woods today, and that I can say with absolute conviction.
WHat are the accessories that are must buys for a new bike owner? I'm guessing a pump is one of them for example. Waterbottle holder, some tools, mudguards, etc?
Is your setup sufficiently non-integrated that you could shove a friction shifter next to the grip and brake? They're stupidly easy to set up, indexing doesn't fail when it doesn't exist, and you wouldn't sacrifice your gearing.Here's a rant:
Fuck front derailleurs. They're awkward and barely function even at their best. The moment there's dirt they need readjusting. And fuck the bike brand and the bike store. They neglect to put a barrel adjuster onto a cross bike's front derailleur, meaning that you'll have to retighten the cable manually. Which in turn means it frays really fast. Are they purposefully sabotaging their builds to make maintenance hard?
Tldr; I'm getting a narrow wide chainring tomorrow. Fuck gear range, I'd rather die climbing a hill than endlessly fix a rubbing chain.
I was surprised by the difference with the Bronson too, and am willing to chalk some of it up to a setup quirk, even though we set the suspension to the same relative settings as the 5010.
I was surprised by the weight differences too. My budget is ~$5k USD ($6.5K CAD), so I'm comparing the SB5c enduro build you recommended to the Bronson C-S and 5010 C-S which are the comparably priced Santa Cruz equivalents. Even by posted weights on the manufacturer website, the Yeti comes in at around 2.5 lbs lighter which I found quite surprising and noticeable on the climbs.
The Spyder looks super sweet, but I'm not a big fan of the local shop that carries their bikes. They never seem to have them in stock either
Is your setup sufficiently non-integrated that you could shove a friction shifter next to the grip and brake? They're stupidly easy to set up, indexing doesn't fail when it doesn't exist, and you wouldn't sacrifice your gearing.
Are you going to try to fit a wider-range cassette to compensate?100% single ring at this point.
In my experience Shimano road stuff tends to be pretty bulletproof in the face of a lot of fine gritty goop, but I've never seen how it deals with the big clumpy stuff that muddy trails can throw at you. What groupset?I don't know why this bike is so terrible when it comes to maintenance. Perhaps Shimano's road groupsets just can't handle dirt and mud?.
4 days of mountain biking on some of the best trails I've been on in some time...
...bliss.
Now back to reality.
Stuck a 30-mile bike shop A group ride in the middle of a century on Saturday. Ride was structured with a few regroups. I tried hanging with the leaders, but there were moments when that paceline was going 30mph on level ground; I definitely did not take any pulls with them, and I definitely also got dropped multiple times, heheh.Come on, people - more photos!
Come on, people - more photos!
Sold my hardtail last week because I'll never ride it while Black Beauty is just sitting there with her metaphorical tits out. Fuck N+1, it's a daft space-consuming concept. I can only ride one bike at a time.
Any suggestions for a really cheap road bike?
Just moved to SF, and I'm not going to be riding around in my Specialized here since I have a feeling it's going to get stolen if I do so.
Any suggestions for a really cheap road bike?
Just moved to SF, and I'm not going to be riding around in my Specialized here since I have a feeling it's going to get stolen if I do so.
Yeah, I used heat plus pliers plus patience. It doesn't need to be perfect for it to hold the tyre just fine anyway.
Slightly bigger issue if you're running tubeless, obviously.