Oof! How are you gonna ease that guilt now? Burning matches under the fingernails?
Get well soon mofo - being injured in summer sucks greasy goat balls.
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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
Oof! How are you gonna ease that guilt now? Burning matches under the fingernails?
Damn that is awesome! I love seeing old well maintained bikes like this. Is this a family heirloom or did you find it beat up and clean her up?
Thanks! I bought it off eBay maybe 10 years ago, but I didn't really appreciate it at the time because I was just a kid. Dragged it out of storage and restored the hell out of it. Appears to have been garage kept its entire life b/c there's virtually zero rust. Even had the original redline tires on it.
These Sears Spyders are overshadowed by the coveted Schwinn Stingrays though, sadly.
Can you ride a trainer?
Or a road bike?
I had a Stingray, looked pretty much exactly like this
But it is loooooong gone.
outunderthestars
Banned
Psychotext
Member
I don't think so. The last trainer session I did aggravated it.
I mean, short of doing it no handed as suggested, but I doubt I'd be able to have a meaningful session that way.
Slathered my 'blown' knee in ibuprofen gel last night and went out for a gentle loosener, only intending to ride a mile down to the beach and back. The knee felt okay though so ended up doing 25 miles around the woods, and there doesn't seem to be an adverse reaction today. Woo, as they say, hoo.
Came across a gravity-defying snapped tree, seemingly held up by a sliver of bark. Very odd.
Came across a gravity-defying snapped tree, seemingly held up by a sliver of bark. Very odd.
^ beautiful shot.
Yup. Love how the Stingrays from a certain time period had special names according to their color. 'Apple Krate', 'Lemon Peeler', 'Pea Picker', 'Grape Krate', etc.
I present to you, the Cotton Picker:
Yup. Love how the Stingrays from a certain time period had special names according to their color. 'Apple Krate', 'Lemon Peeler', 'Pea Picker', 'Grape Krate', etc.
I present to you, the Cotton Picker:
frontieruk
Member
LISS is meaningful though, different but no less relevant.
Psychotext
Member
I'd need to do hours of it to gain any benefit. I've been doing serious endurance work for years.
For most people, while cruising along, your knees should have just a slight bend at the bottom of the stroke.
One rough rule of thumb is to sit in the saddle and put a heel down onto a pedal in the six o'clock position; if the heel just barely sits on the pedal when your leg is totally straight, you're probably pretty close to the correct saddle height.
I think I can go up an inch+ then...
I'll bring up seat adjustment as part of the spring tuneup at the local bike shop next time I'm in for a part or tuning.
jakonovski
Member
What works for me as a baseline is measuring your inner leg (stand against a wall, shove a book between your legs and measure from the floor to the top edge of book) and multiplying it by 0.883.
That result then is the distance from the middle of your crank axle to the top of the saddle.
That result then is the distance from the middle of your crank axle to the top of the saddle.
Psychotext
Member
If you have the time to do the measurements, you could give this a try: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp?INT_ID=IB12809
Good morning bike GAF,
I'm looking for some advice on choosing a mountain bike. I am planning on using this bike primarily on the trail system behind my house. The trails going from my yard are full of rocks, roots, and small streams, but once I am past that the main route I will be taking is a packed dirt road.
I mainly want to use this bike as the primary way to get my cardio in before lifting weights, and trail running is no longer a viable option for me. I'm sure there will be instances where I go on longer rides, but those will be few and far between at the moment.
I am having a very difficult time choosing between the following bikes, so I am looking for recommendations on a solid mid level mountain / trail bike.
The only thing I want to make sure it has are hydraulic disk breaks. Here is my short list at the moment:
Specialized Rockhopper
Specialized Rockhopper Sport
Specialized Pitch Sport
Is there one out of that list that stands out? Any other recommendations (I'm not beholden to any particular manufacturer)?
Thank you
I'm looking for some advice on choosing a mountain bike. I am planning on using this bike primarily on the trail system behind my house. The trails going from my yard are full of rocks, roots, and small streams, but once I am past that the main route I will be taking is a packed dirt road.
I mainly want to use this bike as the primary way to get my cardio in before lifting weights, and trail running is no longer a viable option for me. I'm sure there will be instances where I go on longer rides, but those will be few and far between at the moment.
I am having a very difficult time choosing between the following bikes, so I am looking for recommendations on a solid mid level mountain / trail bike.
The only thing I want to make sure it has are hydraulic disk breaks. Here is my short list at the moment:
Specialized Rockhopper
Specialized Rockhopper Sport
Specialized Pitch Sport
Is there one out of that list that stands out? Any other recommendations (I'm not beholden to any particular manufacturer)?
Thank you
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Any one of those will be fine. I've taken road bikes on rocks & roots without any issue.
Psychotext
Member
Cheap bike situation in the US is awful. Of those I'd probably go for the Rockhopper Sport... though I'd arguably consider paying a bit more for something like a Trek Marlin 7 or a Trek X-Caliber 7 / 8.
Internet bikes are solid enough. Get good parts and decent frames. Like stuff from Airborne or Bikesdirect.
Thanks very much, I'll have a look at the Trek's as well. I am OK with spending a bit more if it gets me a bike I will not outgrow soon.
[edit] Thank you very much for recommending the Marlin 7! I'll have a look at it today at a local shop, looks like it might be the one!
Psychotext
Member
This is quite nice for the money:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products...icycles-mtb/fuji-tahoe-275-mountain-bikes.htm
and this on that Airborne site: https://www.airbornebicycles.com/products/seeker
Still though, the choice is so much better in the UK. Not even close.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I think Fuji's offer a better bang for the buck than Trek / Specialized but they're probably harder to find in a shop
any suggestions on where to start in terms of make / model?
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Psycho or any of the knobby tire riders would know better in terms of components (groadie over here).
Psychotext
Member
Look at the models I've suggested for what I'd generally consider reasonable entry level kit. Ideally you'd want an full air fork rather than a coil (not absolute requirement). SRAM X something / Shimano Deore gearing. Shimano Alivio is acceptable as the absolute lowest end.
frontieruk
Member
Crankset / bb? Or do they not vary much?
Psychotext
Member
Same as the gearing in general. SRAM X something or Shimano Deore ideally.
Actual BB not that important. Hollowtech II is popular. Shimano Octolink spline fine too (just about).
Actual BB not that important. Hollowtech II is popular. Shimano Octolink spline fine too (just about).
jakonovski
Member
Single ring cyclocrosser is the best modification ever! It's like a mountain bike and a road bike in one, it's mindboggling.
Actual benefits are 500g less weight, easier shifts, better chainline and best of all a silent drivetrain that needs no adjusting.
There is one con, the low gear is a smidgen too tall. It could be fixed with loads of cash or just getting fitter.
Actual benefits are 500g less weight, easier shifts, better chainline and best of all a silent drivetrain that needs no adjusting.
There is one con, the low gear is a smidgen too tall. It could be fixed with loads of cash or just getting fitter.
Psychotext
Member
500g!
jakonovski
Member
Well, more like 300g now that I put the numbers down.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Rubbing on what? It could be the front derailleur hanger.
Cross chaining is a thing some don't stress over as much but eh.
Psychotext
Member
It should be adjusted, though some road bikes have trim on the front derailleur which basically means they've been designed to rub until you give it a sort of half shift.
Either it should be adjusted or you can figure out if your current adjustment already allows you to deal with it with trim (I'm going to guess no, but it wouldn't hurt to fiddle with it).
Note that riding on big sprockets tends to make a lot of noise regardless, though.
If you want to never ever have adjustment issues with a front shifter, disconnect your shift cable from the brifter and shove something like this on your bars.
Note that riding on big sprockets tends to make a lot of noise regardless, though.
If you want to never ever have adjustment issues with a front shifter, disconnect your shift cable from the brifter and shove something like this on your bars.
I don't know what most people call it but it's what's called the cage in this picture
I think what's happening is as the angle closes as I go into lower gears, the chain starts rubbing on the inside.
Yeah, I think TarpitCarnivore meant cage. If your bike has an FD hanger and the chain is somehow rubbing it, things have gone catastrophically wrong in a way that I can't even begin to visualize.
Probably, that's a pretty typical thing.
There's a bunch of good recommendations from the crew in here, but I'd also look at the Kona Unit since you're interested in fitness.
It's a chromoly frame that is much more compliant than aluminum, and while it is bare bones to start, the frame is solid and you can upgrade it as needed. It's a single speed, so it will give you a great cardio workout.
I've had mine for a few years and love it. I put a derailleur on mine during the summer time and keep it as a single speed in the winter. I use it on easy to moderate trails, and for commuting as well. I'm considering throwing a front fork on it, but I'm enjoying the chromo front fork too much. Maybe in another year or so.
If you're serious about mountain biking, it will be a great place to start as it forces you to pick your lines during climbs and descents, ultimately making you a better rider when you graduate to a hardtail or full suspension.
It might not be up your alley, but I thought I'd throw it out there as a little something different
OK, so I've got some minor bursitis and its appearance just so happens to coincide with me starting to bike again. Part of me thinks it's just from doing a little too much biking without easing back into it, but PT's anti-clipless pedal lectures also have me a little paranoid. I have Shimano 105 SPD-SLs and they have a lot of float, but could they be to blame?
I think I definitely need to either have my cleats adjusted or some inserts because I have been getting cramping on the outside of my foot, but I don't know if that would be related to stress on the knee at all.
I think I definitely need to either have my cleats adjusted or some inserts because I have been getting cramping on the outside of my foot, but I don't know if that would be related to stress on the knee at all.
Psychotext
Member
It's almost certainly too much too soon... but even with that said, you should really consider getting a proper cleat fitting. It shouldn't cost much, and your knees are almost certainly worth it.
Inserts too. I swore by my Specialized BG SLs.
Inserts too. I swore by my Specialized BG SLs.
OK, I should go back in and chat with them about it. they did a basic fitting when I bought my shoes and pedals but nothing elaborate. I actually have Specialized shoes which are supposed to have an insert that is angled a bit higher on the outside but I would definitely be interested in ones that are best for my feet. $30 seems like a good investment if its going to feel good riding.
Psychotext
Member
My 2x10 on the mountain bike is adjusted so that that there's zero rub. I was never able to do it with the 3x9 I used to have, or the 2x10 on my road bike.
Sadly I couldn't go single ring on the rides I do. Would definitely consider it for an enduro bike though.
Sadly I couldn't go single ring on the rides I do. Would definitely consider it for an enduro bike though.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Where is the pain? The point of pain will dictate what you should do with the cleats.
Outside edge of the foot in the arch area. One explanation I read (could be wrong of course) is that the feet are not angled correctly, so the foot tenses up on the right side, cramping the muscle. There are a few other explanations and it seems to be fairly common.
I've had that from hard climbs but it has always been super brief.
One or two days and unlike shin splints doesn't flare up again from repeating the activity.
No, this has been sticking around a bit. Of course I have noticed it doing squats at the gym so I have to be a little careful what I am doing there as well.
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