Ah, forgot they had a pure track hub on that one.but isn't the Fuji Track a fixed gear only bike?
Although, there's usually nothing particularly catastrophic about sticking a freewheel onto the threading for a fixed cog.
What's a really bad idea is going the other way, since you can't use a lockring on freewheel threads. A fixed cog without a lockring has the potential to unthread when you apply back-pressure, which is obviously a bad situation.
It has to do with how the fork is secured to the bike, and how the stem is secured to the fork.Not sure what a threadless headset is referring to,
There is a "steering tube" connected to the top of the fork, which sits within a bicycle's head tube.
Classically, the outside of the top of the steering tube was threaded. When the fork was in place, and you wanted to secure it to the bike, you screwed a nut onto the threading. Then, if you looked into the top of the head tube through that nut, you saw the inside of the steering tube.
See the bolt on the top of the Feather's stem, pointing into the head tube? It connects to an expander wedge at the bottom of the stem:
That's how the stem is attached to the steering tube: you just shove the bottom of the stem into the steering tube, and turn the bolt the expand the wedge so that the stem is stuck to the inside of the tube.
Modern bikes mostly use threadless forks/headsets/whatever. The outside of the steering tube is completely smooth, and the stem is now a horizontal piece that clamps onto the outside of the steering tube. To set the vertical height of the stem, rather than just loosening the top bolt, setting the stem where you want it, and re-tightening the bolt, you have to put spacers onto the steering tube below where the stem is clamped.
Threadless setups can be made lighter and stiffer than threaded setups with quill stems.