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Bicycle age

Mascot

Member
Woah, woah, woah. Just to be clear, no road is ever going to beat bombing down some good singletrack.

Redeemed!

The problem is that where I go to Uni is pretty devoid of mountain biking and I need something to scratch the itch. Also I’m considering biking to campus and that would be a massive pain on my mountain bike.

This is the biggest myth in cycling. Unless every ride is a trans-alpine road TT you can do everything you need on a mountain bike. OK, it won't be quite as easy or quite as fast as on a road bike (assuming you are on paved roads for the whole trip) but you'll still get there, and with the added bonus of getting fitter than on a road bike (because it's harder work, boo hoo) and with a fat wedge of cash in your pocket that you would have stupidly spent on a Jimmy Farthing and can now blow on more important things like hookers and coke. Plus, you'll have more storage space at home and won't hate yourself every time you trip over that silly little skinny bike that Jimmy Savile used to visit kids on.

Edit: no offence.
 

danowat

Banned
The triban 500 SE is actully the first thing I asked about :p



That said the bike you linked is £50 cheaper, is the SE worth the extra £50? The SE has a carbon fork and a Shimano cassette/crankset whereas the standard 500 has a steel fork and a Sunrace cassette.

sorry, I didn't follow the trail :-/

If you can afford the £50, then yes, a carbon fork will take the buzz out of the road surface, and the crank and cassette could arguably last long / shift better.

That said, if you can't afford the £50, I wouldn't get too bent out of shape about it.
 

jem0208

Member
Redeemed!



This is the biggest myth in cycling. Unless every ride is a trans-alpine road TT you can do everything you need on a mountain bike. OK, it won't be quite as easy or quite as fast as on a road bike (assuming you are on paved roads for the whole trip) but you'll still get there, and with the added bonus of getting fitter than on a road bike (because it's harder work, boo hoo) and with a fat wedge of cash in your pocket that you would have stupidly spent on a Jimmy Farthing and can now blow on more important things like hookers and coke. Plus, you'll have more storage space at home and won't hate yourself every time you trip over that silly little skinny bike that Jimmy Savile used to visit kids on.

Edit: no offence.

Oh I know I could do the ride on my mountain bike, I've been riding around on the roads with my chunky-ass mountain bike for years. The thing is that the ride to campus has about 200m of ascent, the majority of which is over only about 2km (the total ride is arpund 5 or 6km)... If I have an 8am lecture I think I'd rather take a road bike, even if I hate myself riding it :p

Also no offence taken at all :)

sorry, I didn't follow the trail :-/

If you can afford the £50, then yes, a carbon fork will take the buzz out of the road surface, and the crank and cassette could arguably last long / shift better.

That said, if you can't afford the £50, I wouldn't get too bent out of shape about it.
It's fine :)

Thanks for the advice, I should be able to afford the extra £50. Although I'm going to have to price up things like shoes etc. first.
 

danowat

Banned
Thanks for the advice, I should be able to afford the extra £50. Although I'm going to have to price up things like shoes etc. first.

Don't listen to the MTB evangelists, the emptiest milk churns make the loudest noise ;)

If you want a road bike, get a road bike.
 

WedgeX

Banned
Downloaded strava finally. My first rides have been...short.

But speedy! Well. On downhills. As expected. 42.5 mph downhill today.
 

Mascot

Member
Honestly the lycra is what has been holding me back from road biking for years.

Why?

bikerfox.jpg
 
I feel like I am missing some sort of weird running joke.

No weird running joke, just a simple experience. A bike with a race geometry will be more nimble and faster from dead stops. A bike designed for touring with touring tires will, in some cases, feel sluggish compared. However once both are moving they'll be fairly equal, pending rider of course.

I was watching some TDF coverage yesterday and Chris Froome's arms are downright creepy. He looks like a malnourished child.

Yeah there has been some back and forth on Froome (schleck looked worse IMO) but weight is weight when you're trying to be the best up a hill
 

Fafnir

Member
How much have you guys spent on a bike fitting? After a month of tinkering around with my saddle and cleats I decided to get one done, but when I called to setup an appointment they quoted me at $350. I was thinking more of the $150 range but the guy was like, "yeah I got this computer here and I only do 3D fittings". I'm thinking about just buying a trainer and continuing to tinker on my own.
 

danowat

Banned
How much have you guys spent on a bike fitting? After a month of tinkering around with my saddle and cleats I decided to get one done, but when I called to setup an appointment they quoted me at $350. I was thinking more of the $150 range but the guy was like, "yeah I got this computer here and I only do 3D fittings". I'm thinking about just buying a trainer and continuing to tinker on my own.
I had one, waste of money (imo of course)
 

Teggy

Member
No weird running joke, just a simple experience. A bike with a race geometry will be more nimble and faster from dead stops. A bike designed for touring with touring tires will, in some cases, feel sluggish compared. However once both are moving they'll be fairly equal, pending rider of course.

No, I mean you keep saying I have an aluminum bike with race geometry, I keep correcting you saying I have a carbon bike with endurance geometry, but then you come back again saying I have an aluminum bike with race geometry.
 

HTupolev

Member
Sure, but then I paid less than twice as much for my road bike, which is a good 2kg lighter than that one.
Giant Defy (was on offer).
10.6kg of road bike - pedals included - at £300 isn't unreasonable. Even the Defy 1 isn't quite 2kg lighter according to the numbers I'm looking at, and it's normally nearly four times as expensive.

This is something I would do next year and would buy the bike next summer or something. I would like a bike that I could take on trails at some point and this would be a good excuse to do that. But I don't want to wind up with a bike that can do 100 miles on dirt and gravel and steep inclines, but then can't really go on any fun trails. But I also wouldn't want to get a really heavy bike that would be hell to ride for 100 miles. There may not really be a good medium and this might really be a 2 bike solution. But there are so many different bike classes these days, maybe not. I mean, Specialized has these things they call "adventure bikes".
This is why some folks think that randonneuring or light touring bikes should be the main things that new roadies are presented with, rather than pure road racing bikes. Leave much more clearance for wide tires and fenders, include plenty of eyelets and such for mounting things. Performance penalty is tiny even on very smooth roads, and you've got massively more versatility. And if someone wants a more specialized bicycle later - be it a road racing bike or a heavy tourer or a drop-bar bamboo beach cruiser - they can get it when they really want to commit to a riding style.
 
No, I mean you keep saying I have an aluminum bike with race geometry, I keep correcting you saying I have a carbon bike with endurance geometry, but then you come back again saying I have an aluminum bike with race geometry.

Ha, sorry. I hope what I'm saying still makes sense though with regards to geometry, tires, etc. Also carbon can either feel great or more rigid than aluminum.

How much have you guys spent on a bike fitting? After a month of tinkering around with my saddle and cleats I decided to get one done, but when I called to setup an appointment they quoted me at $350. I was thinking more of the $150 range but the guy was like, "yeah I got this computer here and I only do 3D fittings". I'm thinking about just buying a trainer and continuing to tinker on my own.

~$75

Research the store and find out as much as you can. Sounds like they have a Retul set up which is great, but it's one of those things where the tool is only as good as the operator.

Fittings can be such a personal thing and opinions on them can be such wide ranges of the spectrum. Ideally the fitter will account for tons of variables from cleat type to flexibility, but some just go with bare essentials like a plum line.

If you're absolutely in need of one because of pain problems than it can be a very worthwhile investment. If you're just considering it because you're riding more, flexible, etc than just mess with some stuff on your own. If you go this route make sure you're writing down measurements. Last thing you want is to adjust your seat fore/aft and two weeks later forget where it was.

This is why some folks think that randonneuring or light touring bikes should be the main things that new roadies are presented with, rather than pure road racing bikes. Leave much more clearance for wide tires and fenders, include plenty of eyelets and such for mounting things. Performance penalty is tiny even on very smooth roads, and you've got massively more versatility. And if someone wants a more specialized bicycle later - be it a road racing bike or a heavy tourer or a drop-bar bamboo beach cruiser - they can get it when they really want to commit to a riding style.

I really really wish I approached my first bike buy this way. Within two years I wanted a touring/randonneuring set up and I've been so happy since. The flexibility it's providing me is well worth the small performance issues that can crop up.
 

Teggy

Member
This is why some folks think that randonneuring or light touring bikes should be the main things that new roadies are presented with, rather than pure road racing bikes. Leave much more clearance for wide tires and fenders, include plenty of eyelets and such for mounting things. Performance penalty is tiny even on very smooth roads, and you've got massively more versatility. And if someone wants a more specialized bicycle later - be it a road racing bike or a heavy tourer or a drop-bar bamboo beach cruiser - they can get it when they really want to commit to a riding style.

How much extra stability can one expect on 28s vs. 25s? I've had my bike
(25s) on some dirt sections and felt really uncomfortable. Supposedly you can get 30s on the Roubaix with the right rims. Clearance would likely be very tight though.
 
How much extra stability can one expect on 28s vs. 25s? I've had my bike
(25s) on some dirt sections and felt really uncomfortable. Supposedly you can get 30s on the Roubaix with the right rims. Clearance would likely be very tight though.

25-28s, not much. Even on 32s it can be a little hairy if I'm going to fast in turns.
 
I was watching some TDF coverage yesterday and Chris Froome's arms are downright creepy. He looks like a malnourished child.
Thanks to a completely failed bulk (back injury), that's pretty much how I'm looking right now. :(

10.6kg of road bike - pedals included - at £300 isn't unreasonable. Even the Defy 1 isn't quite 2kg lighter according to the numbers I'm looking at, and it's normally nearly four times as expensive.

On the scale mine is 8.6kg. Maybe I'm missing a wheel? :p

But as I said, that thing comes well reviewed and recommended (so he should probably go for it)... but that doesn't mean you shouldn't still be aware of the weight of it.
 

phinious

Member
Can I get some advice? I want on upgrade from my hybred sh win . I ride on sidewalks, shitty roads and, gravel sometimes. The bike store is trying to sell me a Giant any road for $1100. Are these worth it for the casual rider? I do about 5 hours per week
 
TarpitCarnivore said:
I really really wish I approached my first bike buy this way. Within two years I wanted a touring/randonneuring set up and I've been so happy since. The flexibility it's providing me is well worth the small performance issues that can crop up.
Oh my yes. My first real bike was a triathlon bike (no I didn't know) and sure asnahit it's a fast one. I have commits on it for five years now and it's not a great bike for commuting, let me tell you. The salsa vaya is much better for that but my wife thinks that because it's heavier it's not what I should be using.

Also: I can get to and from work in the same time in both bikes, whatever that means.
 

jem0208

Member
Can I get some advice? I want on upgrade from my hybred sh win . I ride on sidewalks, shitty roads and, gravel sometimes. The bike store is trying to sell me a Giant any road for $1100. Are these worth it for the casual rider? I do about 5 hours per week

Actually now that I think about it, 5 hours a week isn't that small an amount of time.
 
Giants are good bikes with generally good value. But if that bike is your only exercise, it's worth whatever it takes to keep you riding happily.
 

HTupolev

Member
Can I get some advice? I want on upgrade from my hybred sh win . I ride on sidewalks, shitty roads and, gravel sometimes. The bike store is trying to sell me a Giant any road for $1100. Are these worth it for the casual rider? I do about 5 hours per week
Gear range looks nice, with everything from a low 34-34 granny to a respectable 50-11 high gear (which is useful even bombing hills at 45mph).
The cassette achieves its wide 11-34 range by ditching the ultra-tight spacing on the high gears that comes on most road cassettes these days. If you mostly use the big chainring and switch to the little chainring as a bailout, this will likely be a complete non-issue unless you cruise at 20+mph. If it does wind up bothering you, you can always fiddle with the cassette later.

The stock tires are 32mm, which might not be as wide as what's on your hybrid. Depending on just how bad the bad roads and gravel are, you may find that you want something wider than a 32. But, if you decide you want to go wider, the switch would be very easy: the rims on that bike should be able to comfortably handle tires at least 44mm wide, and the frame supposedly has clearance for 48.

It will be a huge posture change from a Schwinn hybrid. If you're comfortable with the Anyroad, it should be a solid upgrade.

That's a hell of a lot for a bike you're not really using all that much.
Depends on the finances. 5 hours a week isn't a tiny amount of time to put into an activity.

"Is it worth it" discussions on the internet are also generally a total mess, because the people participating vary from folks who would starve to death if they didn't find a $50 bike on craigslist, to millionaires who are barely aware of the $15,000 they dropped on the bike they spend 20 minutes getting coffee on twice a week.
We can usually only hope to weigh pros and cons of the product itself... Deciding final worth-it-ness is something only the buyer can really do.

But as I said, that thing comes well reviewed and recommended (so he should probably go for it)... but that doesn't mean you shouldn't still be aware of the weight of it.
I guess Jem also has a legitimate reason to be a weight weenie here; 200m is a lot of climbing for a short commute. He'll probably have to leave 20 seconds early to make up for those 2kg! Or more if he bottoms out his gearing.

:D
 

jem0208

Member
Depends on the finances. 5 hours a week isn't a tiny amount of time to put into an activity.

"Is it worth it" discussions on the internet are also generally a total mess, because the people participating vary from folks who would starve to death if they didn't find a $50 bike on craigslist, to millionaires who are barely aware of the $15,000 they dropped on the bike they spend 20 minutes getting coffee on twice a week.
We can usually only hope to weigh pros and cons of the product itself... Deciding final worth-it-ness is something only the buyer can really do.
Yeah as I said in my edit, thinking about it it's actually a pretty reasonable amount of time.

Still, the question about what they're using it for still stands. If all they're planning on doing is popping back and forth to the shops at a leisurely pace they don't really need a $1100 bike, even if they're doing it for 5 hours a week.

Wouldn't want to have to get up early. :D

Exactly. I love my lie ins.

It's University. Being late is expected. Hell, the lecturers are amazed if you roll up before lunch.

I'm not expecting to arrive at any of my morning lectures on time.
 

phinious

Member
Gear range looks nice, with everything from a low 34-34 granny to a respectable 50-11 high gear (which is useful even bombing hills at 45mph).
The cassette achieves its wide 11-34 range by ditching the ultra-tight spacing on the high gears that comes on most road cassettes these days. If you mostly use the big chainring and switch to the little chainring as a bailout, this will likely be a complete non-issue unless you cruise at 20+mph. If it does wind up bothering you, you can always fiddle with the cassette later.

The stock tires are 32mm, which might not be as wide as what's on your hybrid. Depending on just how bad the bad roads and gravel are, you may find that you want something wider than a 32. But, if you decide you want to go wider, the switch would be very easy: the rims on that bike should be able to comfortably handle tires at least 44mm wide, and the frame supposedly has clearance for 48.

It will be a huge posture change from a Schwinn hybrid. If you're comfortable with the Anyroad, it should be a solid upgrade.


Depends on the finances. 5 hours a week isn't a tiny amount of time to put into an activity.

"Is it worth it" discussions on the internet are also generally a total mess, because the people participating vary from folks who would starve to death if they didn't find a $50 bike on craigslist, to millionaires who are barely aware of the $15,000 they dropped on the bike they spend 20 minutes getting coffee on twice a week.
We can usually only hope to weigh pros and cons of the product itself... Deciding final worth-it-ness is something only the buyer can really do.


I guess Jem also has a legitimate reason to be a weight weenie here; 200m is a lot of climbing for a short commute. He'll probably have to leave 20 seconds early to make up for those 2kg! Or more if he bottoms out his gearing.

:D

Great post man. Thanks a ton!
 
You can definitely find suitable bikes for your needs for less. Fairdale and Fuji both have some options that can work.

Especially with it being for uni I'd hate to roll up in a 1100 bike and leave it locked up.
 

HTupolev

Member
Especially with it being for uni I'd hate to roll up in a 1100 bike and leave it locked up.
Jem is buying for uni and has already made the £300 purchase. Phinious is the one looking at the $1100 bike, and hasn't described use other than being a casual rider putting in 5 hours a week on rough road and gravel.
 
Jem is buying for uni and has already made the £300 purchase. Phinious is the one looking at the $1100 bike, and hasn't described use other than being a casual rider putting in 5 hours a week onI'm rough road and gravel.

D'oh, my bad.

I ride 6-8 hours a week and spent around $1100 on my bike so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 

Mascot

Member
Let's not put a £/time ratio on things when I've got a race bike costing many thousands sitting in the garage that I've used once this year!!!

My 15 hour-a-week average was one of the factors I used to self-justify my recent N+1.

I'm also still using a £2k sports bet win from 2002 as a bottomless slush fund. In my mind that money never got spent and it's a great facilitator when I want to spend big, even if in reality it's been blown on big toys many times over. It's an awesome psychological prop..!
 

danowat

Banned
I did toy with the idea of selling it, but I don't need the money, and I would never get what it's worth secondhand, so I'll probably just keep it, despite the fact I don't think I'll ever be able to perform to my peak, which was probably about 2013!
 

Mascot

Member
Hose it down and hang it on the wall in your living room..!

Got a photo of it?

Actually, people: more photos in this thread please.
 

danowat

Banned
Believe it or not, I don't have one just of the bike, only pics I've got of it are with my great carcass on it.

It's spotlessly clean, it's the only bike I keep clean!.

10945687_1538097916479993_8858386337353788491_o_zpsuivi7nhr.jpg
 
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