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[TarpitCarnivore]

Pretty much no soft dirt right now. They are just the tires that came with it, and to be honest, they are one of the reasons I went towards a CX bike in the first place. I like the thought that they will help me with grip if I need to go on some grass, or gravel, or whatever really.

But I am open to suggestions! Is there a tire you can recommend?



Oooohhhhhhh! Under the pedal! I had tried to prop it up with my helmet, but I didn't think of under the pedal! Thanks!

There's tons of tires that are gravel specific. You don't need a tire with knobs if you're going to be on grass or dirt so something like the Panaracer Gravel King (32c or smaller) can work. But there are also ones like the Sim Works Homage which have a treading but are far less knobby.

 

[teepo]

you might want to take a look at continental's cyclocross speed, a great all-around threaded tire.

it's what i've been eyeing for my neglected cx bike

 

[Mascot]

Well, I'm not quite sure what my lunchtime fettling did today but the gears ran perfectamundo this evening. The new cassette arrives tomorrow but I think I'll shelve it as there seems to be naff-all wrong with this one after all.

How do you guys store your bikes? Thinking of the best way for then to take up the least amount of space.. 3 bikes small place to put them in.

I've got a wall-mounted bike clamp with a fuck-off wordlock looped through a wall bracket for security. It's also handy for some quick maintenance tasks without having to bust out the mechanic's stand. There's a spare drop-in backplate for it permanently mounted to a wall outside for hosing the bike down after muddy rides. I'm in the middle of reorganising the workshop at the moment so it's a bit of a mess.

 

[RaySpencer]

There's tons of tires that are gravel specific. You don't need a tire with knobs if you're going to be on grass or dirt so something like the Panaracer Gravel King (32c or smaller) can work. But there are also ones like the Sim Works Homage which have a treading but are far less knobby.

Those Gravel Kings scare me, I feel like I would just bin it on some slick grass or something, haha. Maybe eventually though! Sim Works Homage look good though!

you might want to take a look at continental's cyclocross speed, a great all-around threaded tire.

it's what i've been eyeing for my neglected cx bike

Yeah! I was looking at those last night, they look good too.

I could probably go for something like the Sim Works Homage or the continental's cyclocross speed for sure.

I will definitely look at getting some different tires next year when I hopefully should have a better idea on what I plan on using my new bike for.

 

[Mascot]

PT, looks like the 2017 Spectrals are up for sale now on Canyon's site.

 

[thomaser]

How do you guys store your bikes? Thinking of the best way for then to take up the least amount of space.. 3 bikes small place to put them in.

I hang my two bikes from hooks in the ceiling. Simple, cheap, and works well. Frees up a lot of space on the ground in the garage.

 

[Psychotext]

PT, looks like the 2017 Spectrals are up for sale now on Canyon's site.

Awesome, cheers. I shall have look in person on Saturday and get my order in.

Unrelated... just did 2.5 hours on the trainer and feel like complete shit now.

 

[TarpitCarnivore]

Those Gravel Kings scare me, I feel like I would just bin it on some slick grass or something, haha. Maybe eventually though! Sim Works Homage look good though!




Yeah! I was looking at those last night, they look good too.

I could probably go for something like the Sim Works Homage or the continental's cyclocross speed for sure.

I will definitely look at getting some different tires next year when I hopefully should have a better idea on what I plan on using my new bike for.

Should mention those Homage tires are 42. So factor that in when considering them.

I've used those Gravel Kings on all sorts of terrain. They're definitely a bit more slick in the grass and loose dirt. Their 35+ sizes have more bite to them

 

[RaySpencer]

Should mention those Homage tires are 42. So factor that in when considering them.

I've used those Gravel Kings on all sorts of terrain. They're definitely a bit more slick in the grass and loose dirt. Their 35+ sizes have more bite to them

I wont pretend to understand any of the tire size stuff yet. It seems confusing as hell right now.

http://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2016/threshold-a-105/

The Norco site tells me that my bike has:

WTB SX19 Disc 28H - Black w/Orange

Which I assume is like, Brand, then model, then that it has disc brakes and then is 28" ...no idea about the H. haha

then it says:

Schwalbe Racing Ralph 700 x 33c - Folding

Again, brand, model, then I have no idea what those numbers mean, haha. And folding I looked up which means you can fold it, haha.

Honestly the whole spec page makes very little sense to me until I REALLY stare at it, haha.

 

[HTupolev]

I have no idea what those numbers mean

WTB SX19 Disc 28H - Black w/Orange

WTB is the wheel brand.

SX19 is the model; or, in particular, SX19 is a WTB rim model.

Disc means it's built for disc brakes.

28H means that the rim has 28 holes. It's basically the spoke count.

Schwalbe Racing Ralph 700 x 33c - Folding

Schwalbe is the tire brand.

Racing Ralph is the model.

700x33c is the tire size. A more precise description would be 700c tire with a width of 33mm.
33mm width is pretty straightforward: it means that the tire will be around 33mm wide when inflated. Mountain bike tires tend to be 40mm+ wide when inflated, road racing bikes these days tend to have 25mm tires.
700c describes the bead diameter of the tire. The "bead" is the thick strip along the two edges of the tire that you seat in the rim's hook. In particular, "700c" refers to a bead diameter of 622mm, and right now it's by far the most common diameter for road bikes. The phrase "29 inch" in mountain biking also means "622mm bead diameter."

"Folding" means that the tire uses an aramid bead, rather than a steel wire. Tires that use steel wire beads can be damaged if you try to fold them tightly, so aramid-bead tires are referred to as "folding". This also saves a bit of weight compared to steel wire beads.

I've used those Gravel Kings on all sorts of terrain. They're definitely a bit more slick in the grass and loose dirt. Their 35+ sizes have more bite to them

Yep, Panaracer actually makes two Gravelking tires: the Gravelking and the Gravelking SK. The non-SK Gravelking is treaded a lot like a road tire but with ultra-fine speckled tread on the centerline, and is unfortunately only available up to 32mm for 700c wheels. The Gravelking SK has more tread for chewing through soft surfaces, and is available in larger sizes.

 

[TarpitCarnivore]

...

Something to add to this great post:

A wider tire (32-42) may have more resistance when going from a dead stop. Nothing that will severely hurt you, but you'll definitely notice a difference in a 32 at 110psi and a 25 at 110psi. And a 42 could feel super heavy by comparison (The WTB horizon is like 1lb total for the two).

However, with a wider tire you can also run a bit lower. A 23-25 may need 110-120psi, but a 32-35 may only need 90-100psi.

I wont even get into tubeless (though I love it).

 

[RaySpencer]

WTB is the wheel brand.

SX19 is the model; or, in particular, SX19 is a WTB rim model.

Disc means it's built for disc brakes.

28H means that the rim has 28 holes. It's basically the spoke count.


Schwalbe is the tire brand.

Racing Ralph is the model.

700x33c is the tire size. A more precise description would be 700c tire with a width of 33mm.
33mm width is pretty straightforward: it means that the tire will be around 33mm wide when inflated. Mountain bike tires tend to be 40mm+ wide when inflated, road racing bikes these days tend to have 25mm tires.
700c describes the bead diameter of the tire. The "bead" is the thick strip along the two edges of the tire that you seat in the rim's hook. In particular, "700c" refers to a bead diameter of 622mm, and right now it's by far the most common diameter for road bikes. The phrase "29 inch" in mountain biking also means "622mm bead diameter."

"Folding" means that the tire uses an aramid bead, rather than a steel wire. Tires that use steel wire beads can be damaged if you try to fold them tightly, so aramid-bead tires are referred to as "folding". This also saves a bit of weight compared to steel wire beads.


Yep, Panaracer actually makes two Gravelking tires: the Gravelking and the Gravelking SK. The non-SK Gravelking is treaded a lot like a road tire but with ultra-fine speckled tread on the centerline, and is unfortunately only available up to 32mm for 700c wheels. The Gravelking SK has more tread for chewing through soft surfaces, and is available in larger sizes.

Something to add to this great post:

A wider tire (32-42) may have more resistance when going from a dead stop. Nothing that will severely hurt you, but you'll definitely notice a difference in a 32 at 110psi and a 25 at 110psi. And a 42 could feel super heavy by comparison (The WTB horizon is like 1lb total for the two).

However, with a wider tire you can also run a bit lower. A 23-25 may need 110-120psi, but a 32-35 may only need 90-100psi.

I wont even get into tubeless (though I love it).

This is all awesome information. Thank you.

So the important thing when looking for new tires is the 700c part, any wheel I get will have to be that right? and then the width I can get some different sizes depending on what type of wheel I want.

Crazy 120psi too. My tires say 50-85, I think they set them up at 85 when I bought it. the guy at the store said he likes running his at 40 for comfort, haha. Road wheels get nuts I guess!

 

[Psychotext]

Ugh, the new bike isn't going to be available until Christmas.

 

[TarpitCarnivore]

This is all awesome information. Thank you.

So the important thing when looking for new tires is the 700c part, any wheel I get will have to be that right? and then the width I can get some different sizes depending on what type of wheel I want.

Crazy 120psi too. My tires say 50-85, I think they set them up at 85 when I bought it. the guy at the store said he likes running his at 40 for comfort, haha. Road wheels get nuts I guess!

Any site with a filter will automatically show you the correct tires for road or cyclocross applied. There are some road tires that are 650b but it's such a small number.

Tire pressure comes down to width and then weight of the rider. So for me 100-110 was good for 25-28 but once I got up to 32 I was able to go down to 70 if I really wanted to. but with tubeless I can run as low as 40'on dirt.

The one time I rode 32 tubeless at 70 I was puncturing like crazy.

 

[RaySpencer]

Any site with a filter will automatically show you the correct tires for road or cyclocross applied. There are some road tires that are 650b but it's such a small number.

Tire pressure comes down to width and then weight of the rider. So for me 100-110 was good for 25-28 but once I got up to 32 I was able to go down to 70 if I really wanted to. but with tubeless I can run as low as 40'on dirt.

The one time I rode 32 tubeless at 70 I was puncturing like crazy.

Yeah, I guess Im just wondering what my first pick for filtering stuff is.

My main shop I go to around here is awesome, but the site isnt always great. https://www.unitedcycle.com/cycling-components-tires-tubes-tires I can sort by 700c, which should be where Im looking right?

Ahhh ok, all the ranges for the tire will be on the tube or tire anyway though, right? And then after that its just a feel thing.


edit: Tires are so cheap, Im really tempted to just go grab a couple more road based ones, and new tubes. I should get some practice on swapping out tires. haha.

 

[HTupolev]

I can sort by 700c, which should be where Im looking right?

Yes. You'd also be technically capable of getting 29er tires to seat on your rims, although it's likely that most MTB tires are too wide for your bike. Take a look at your bike, see how much clearance there is around the tire, both as it goes through the brakes and wherever it gets near the frame. That should give you an idea of how much bigger you can go.

Crazy 120psi too. My tires say 50-85, I think they set them up at 85 when I bought it. the guy at the store said he likes running his at 40 for comfort, haha.

Lower pressures can also be fast, sometimes. A tire should work as suspension for its bike; if it's so stiff that the surface you're on is transmitting shocks and buzz to the bike and rider, the result is that you'll go slower.
The roughness of mountain biking surfaces makes this very obvious to mountain bikers. It's a big part of why they often run their tires about as flat as they can get away with.

This can even be a problem on "smooth" road surfaces. Here's some test data that Silca made a couple years ago, with a 190-pound bike+rider using good 25mm road tires:

Even the gentle buzz of smooth asphalt was slowing this setup down when pushing above 110PSI!

edit: Tires are so cheap, Im really tempted to just go grab a couple more road based ones, and new tubes. I should get some practice on swapping out tires. haha.

If you can fix a flat, you can change a tire. And you should definitely know how to fix a flat, and carry the appropriate tools.

 

[TarpitCarnivore]

Yeah, I guess Im just wondering what my first pick for filtering stuff is.

My main shop I go to around here is awesome, but the site isnt always great. https://www.unitedcycle.com/cycling-components-tires-tubes-tires I can sort by 700c, which should be where Im looking right?

Ahhh ok, all the ranges for the tire will be on the tube or tire anyway though, right? And then after that its just a feel thing.


edit: Tires are so cheap, Im really tempted to just go grab a couple more road based ones, and new tubes. I should get some practice on swapping out tires. haha.

I would shop on your local site. I would use the manufacturer site for tires they carry (but really they should be able to get you anything). So use the manufacturer site and narrow down a few options. Go in and talk to the store about what you're thinking. They may be able to guide you and help you based on your needs.

OR

You buy a second set of rims and keep two wheel sets. This is my plan for next year. One with 42s for dirt and gravel and one with 28-33s for road and gravel.

 

[RaySpencer]

Yes. You'd also be technically capable of getting 29er tires to seat on your rims, although it's likely that most MTB tires are too wide for your bike. Take a look at your bike, see how much clearance there is around the tire, both as it goes through the brakes and wherever it gets near the frame. That should give you an idea of how much bigger you can go.


Lower pressures can also be fast, sometimes. A tire should work as suspension for its bike; if it's so stiff that the surface you're on is transmitting shocks and buzz to the bike and rider, the result is that you'll go slower.
The roughness of mountain biking surfaces makes this very obvious to mountain bikers. It's a big part of why they often run their tires about as flat as they can get away with.

This can even be a problem on "smooth" road surfaces. Here's some test data that Silca made a couple years ago, with a 190-pound bike+rider using good 25mm road tires:

Even the gentle buzz of smooth asphalt was slowing this setup down when pushing above 110PSI!


If you can fix a flat, you can change a tire. And you should definitely know how to fix a flat, and carry the appropriate tools.

Thats a cool graph, pretty crazy how it just drops from 110 to 120.

I have fixed flat tires on bikes before, its been a while, but I remember how to do it. haha. I havent gotten around to getting patches or portable pumps, or even a bag to carry that stuff yet though, haha. Im still working on buying everything I need, since I started from nothing.

It seems like I have a little bit more room to go bigger if I want too. Its a little tighter at the back than the front though. Seems like at least 5mm on each side, since these are 33, I could probably squeeze a 45 in there. No idea how a 29" converts into these new size terms I've learned though, haha.


edit:

I would shop on your local site. I would use the manufacturer site for tires they carry (but really they should be able to get you anything). So use the manufacturer site and narrow down a few options. Go in and talk to the store about what you're thinking. They may be able to guide you and help you based on your needs.

OR

You buy a second set of rims and keep two wheel sets. This is my plan for next year. One with 42s for dirt and gravel and one with 28-33s for road and gravel.

Yeah, I would likely ask around at my shop, they are very helpful and honest (it seems anyway).

A second set of rims sounds good too. If I do that though, it will be next year, not right now. haha.

 

[HTupolev]

No idea how a 29" converts into these new size terms I've learned though, haha.

MTB tire widths generally mean the same thing, but are listed in inches. A 29x2" tire is theoretically the same size as a 700x51c tire.

 

[RaySpencer]

MTB tire widths generally mean the same thing, but are listed in inches. A 29x2" tire is theoretically the same size as a 700x51c tire.

Great, haha. So dumb!

I probably wont be going any bigger than what I have on there now, but it good to know that the option might exist!

Thanks!

 

[Mascot]

Ugh, the new bike isn't going to be available until Christmas.

At the earliest, I think. Canyon are launching their 2017 models in the US for the first time, and I can see demand being huge (especially for the Spectral). I'd get your order in ASAP if i was you. Can you order now and cancel/amend if you don't like what you see at Eurobike?

 

[Psychotext]

It seems like I have a little bit more room to go bigger if I want too. Its a little tighter at the back than the front though. Seems like at least 5mm on each side, since these are 33, I could probably squeeze a 45 in there. No idea how a 29" converts into these new size terms I've learned though, haha.

I'd argue probably not much bigger... don't forget, tyres deform when you're actually on them / hitting obstacles. I have a large part rubbed out of my chain stay because I went too close to the tolerance.

At the earliest, I think. Canyon are launching their 2017 models in the US for the first time, and I can see demand being huge (especially for the Spectral). I'd get your order in ASAP if i was you. Can you order now and cancel/amend if you don't like what you see at Eurobike?

Aye. I'll have to check the FAQs.

Edit - Rob Warner vid showing why mountain biking is amazing: https://vimeo.com/182882916 (Mascot and Rob are peas in a pod, though Mascot is a lot skinnier

 

[Psychotext]

Eep... bike ordered.

 

[TarpitCarnivore]

Edit - Rob Warner vid showing why mountain biking is amazing: https://vimeo.com/182882916 (Mascot and Rob are peas in a pod, though Mascot is a lot skinnier

Would love to find trail systems like that by me.

 

[Psychotext]

Would love to find trail systems like that by me.

I'm assuming all of that is in Wales, but I'm not sure of all the trails exactly.

 

[Mascot]

Eep... bike ordered.

My man. That's a serious steed.

I've been looking closely at its baby brother for a while, the (far more modest) Spectral AL7 EX.

2017 Spectral ALs aren't revealed yet (just the CF ones are), but the 2016 is available for around £1800, which is a ridiculous price for the spec. It's only a £200 saving off list though, so waiting for the 2017 one seems sensible (unless there's a huge Brexit price hike, of course).

 

[Mascot]

I'm assuming all of that is in Wales, but I'm not sure of all the trails exactly.

They're the Antur Stiniog and Coed-y-Brenin trail centres in Snowdonia National Park. I'd recognise that long loopy switchback at Coed anywhere.

(Both unfortunately a good three hour drive from us, PT).

Did you watch that Wild Wales (or whatever it was called) I mentioned a couple of weeks ago? I think Jones The Bike went through both of these centres on his way up Snowdonia.

Edit: Extreme Wales with Richard Parks.
Because the BBC are more concerned with keeping Jimmy Savile's ghost topped up with fresh toddlers, iPlayer only keeps programmes for a week so if you snoozed and loozed, but here's a bit:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0470cyb

Whole thing might be on YouTube someday.

 

[Psychotext]

Which trail is that on? Because I've done cody to death and I don't recognise that at all.

I thought it could be slipway, on Minotaur, but I don't remember it having that many loops.

Edit - Yeah, it's not a great drive either, goddamn caravans everywhere and like, two sections of dual carriageway. I'm up in that neck of the woods for the BB200 in three weeks.

 

[TarpitCarnivore]

I'm assuming all of that is in Wales, but I'm not sure of all the trails exactly.

The two big spots by me are like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M60ZcohGOf0 and this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_529LgswPE

I'd love to find a wide open trail but i just don't think they exist by me.

 

[Psychotext]

Full thing still seems to be on iPlayer Mascot.

 

[Mascot]

Which trail is that on? Because I've done cody to death and I don't recognise that at all.

I thought it could be slipway, on Minotaur, but I don't remember it having that many loops.

Edit - Yeah, it's not a great drive either, goddamn caravans everywhere and like, two sections of dual carriageway. I'm up in that neck of the woods for the BB200 in three weeks.

Full thing still seems to be on iPlayer Mascot.

Got a link? I could only find eps 2 & 3.

 

[Psychotext]

That's not in the foundry. The wiggly bit there is a basically flat, fairly large pump track.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b07v8n4b/extreme-wales-with-richard-parks-episode-1

Edit - Yeah, it's slipway: https://youtu.be/TeP7K_cPrSI?t=40

Looks very different when professionally shot.

 

[Mascot]

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b07v8n4b/extreme-wales-with-richard-parks-episode-1

The iPlayer website is a shit-show. I've had this issue several times with only certain episodes being visible for no fucking reason. Start spending my money better, you BBC nonce-protectors!

Anyway, it's worth a watch.

Edit: didn't you fancy the greeny-gold 9.0 EX? I think it's pretty funky (but yeah - Stealth FTW)

 

[Psychotext]

No, it's fugly. lol

 

[kottila]

Something to add to this great post:

A wider tire (32-42) may have more resistance when going from a dead stop. Nothing that will severely hurt you, but you'll definitely notice a difference in a 32 at 110psi and a 25 at 110psi. And a 42 could feel super heavy by comparison (The WTB horizon is like 1lb total for the two).

However, with a wider tire you can also run a bit lower. A 23-25 may need 110-120psi, but a 32-35 may only need 90-100psi.

I wont even get into tubeless (though I love it).

Your pressure numbers are quite high (depending on your weight). I run 80-90 on my 25s and would probably be on 60-70 on a 35.

 

[Mascot]

I forgot to mention it here but I bailed on the Cannondale Trigger Carbon Black Inc I was buying. The financial side of the deal was amazing (a ten-month-old £7k bike for £2k) but I was waiting (still am waiting, actually) for official confirmation from Cannondale as to whether the frame warranty was transferrable like the seller said (I've since found out from other sources - it isn't). The seller basically gave me an ultimatum to complete the deal that day (he was in the area and was bringing the bike up) or the deal was off. I don't respond well to stuff like that so took it no further.

I've kind of been torn ever since. Part of me sees it as a missed opportunity to get a great deal on a top-specc'd 11kg full-suss carbon bike, a model (albeit further down the range) I researched well and coveted earlier this year, but part of me knows that owning such a machine with so many proprietary parts could easily turn into an expensive ball-ache. It *seems* Cannondale may have dropped the Trigger from their range for 2017 (along with the Dyad pull shock) so support/spares/repacements could be problematic further down the road. Both the Dyad and the Supermax strut (it's not a fork, and can't be called one..!) would both need instantly servicing at around £300 (although the Supermax has literally just had a recall to swap a part over, which would effectively have involved a free service) and service intervals are very short for both front and rear shocks... but man, the fucking carbon wheels would cost over two grand by themselves. Like I say, I'm still torn about the situation. I mean, look at this fucker and drool at the spec. If it can be carbon, it is carbon.

video

Specification

 

[Psychotext]

2k kinda tells me there was a problem with it. Too good to be true.

 

[Mascot]

2k kinda tells me there was a problem with it. Too good to be true.

I really don't think there was anything wrong it. I spoke with the seller plenty of times, he was the original owner and it was still under warranty, so if there were any problems they'd have been sorted. It was only £2k because I won it at £2k. They aren't the easiest of bikes to sell as the Lefty puts a lot of people off. He was gutted it went so cheaply, which is no doubt why he gave the ultimatum. He's since sold it for more. I'm sure the bike was absolutely fine but I don't know, I had to follow my instinct. There was a lot of shit going on at work around this time too so I had a hard time focussing on it and maybe wasn't thinking straight. I'm still not sure if I dodged a bullet or missed the opportunity of a lifetime lol.

What a fucking bike though.

 

[Psychotext]

Well, had it been sorted it would have definitely been one hell of a deal.

 

[jakonovski]

It's like when buying a car -- never get attached to an individual vehicle.

 

[TarpitCarnivore]

Your pressure numbers are quite high (depending on your weight). I run 80-90 on my 25s and would probably be on 60-70 on a 35.

I go between 165 and 175 but I agree I tend to run a bit on the high end.

 

[Mascot]

Well, had it been sorted it would have definitely been one hell of a deal.

I have to keep reminding myself that I love my Ariel and there's nothing wrong with it. I also quite like having an old bike that I don't mind scratching and bashing.

It's like when buying a car -- never get attached to an individual vehicle.

Very true!

 

[Incognito]

last week of sustained build on trainer raod before recovery week, come on alraedy. did Kern yesterday and temp was 39c. managed to complete 52 minutes, just couldn't do the last two intervals at 120% and 110% ftp. came inside and my fiancee said "you look like shit!" now thats the sign of a good workout!

 

[Psychotext]

You should never get off. If nothing else you should do the final intervals at a reduced power or use it as an opportunity for a longer cooldown. Just stopping is utterly awful for you.

Also, I can't seem to find Kern on the plan. You sure it's that one you did?

I'm in the last week before recovery (week 7) but I'm skipping recovery and going straight into Speciality: Cross-Country Marathon. Last night I did Meteorite (horrible) and tonight I'm doing Juneau.

 

[Incognito]

You should never get off. If nothing else you should do the final intervals at a reduced power or use it as an opportunity for a longer cooldown. Just stopping is utterly awful for you.

Also, I can't seem to find Kern on the plan. You sure it's that one you did?

I'm in the last week before recovery (week 7) but I'm skipping recovery and going straight into Speciality: Cross-Country Marathon. Last night I did Meteorite (horrible) and tonight I'm doing Juneau.

I know, I just couldn't. I was getting down to upper 70s/low 80s cadence wise and had no mental fortitude. I was drenched, the humidity was suffocating, and I switched to recovery mode for the last 10 minutes and just spinned. Sad all around!

And Kern is in general build, not sustained. I'm still in a state of haze! ha.

edit: 4.05 w/kg - nice! my goal is 4 by january. im at 3.7 now.

Kern is 3x14-minute sets of intervals where you'll start with 2 minutes at 115% FTP followed closely by 2.5 minutes at 105% FTP and finally 3 minutes at 95% FTP before stepping back out the same way you stepped in.

Recoveries between intervals are only 30 seconds and the recoveries between sets of intervals are 3 minutes long.

115%, not 120. god. although i've already told myself that vo2 max work will be focus of next training interval. the sustainted stuff i can handle relatively well, i just need to spend more time on v02 and being totally utterlly uncomfortable.

 

[Psychotext]

It should be a bit higher than that, but to be honest I'm a bit of a lardarse right now. I'm hoping to have it at 4.3 for my event in 2.5 weeks time.

 

[Lonely1]

So, I took my action video of me Bicycling around the city (Sorry, not youtube upload). My question is, that it looks like I'm actually going veeery slow, even when my speedometer said I was over 30KMh. Is that a common issue? I'm a total noob when it comes to video recording and photography.

 

[Psychotext]

No, it's very common. It's worse in mountain biking as everything that looks gnar suddenly looks WEAK.

Mount it low to the ground if you want it to look faster. Mount it high if you want a good look at what's going on.

 

[teepo]

there's still sun out! what's wrong with you people!!!

 

[jakonovski]

No there's not! I'm having a crisis because I recently realised I'm working office hours now and that means no daylight outside of working hours from the end of October to the beginning of March.

edit: just means I need more gigantic bike lights.