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Bicycle age

Did you change the gear cable? I normally change the cable when I change my chain, but cable stretch wouldn't explain not getting past 6th.

Are you sure you 'reset' the shifter spring before tightening the cable and re-indexing the gears? It sounds like it's effective operating range is limited.

Another thing to check is that the derailleur isn't fouling the chainstay. I had a similar problem a while ago and it drove me mad until i realised the derailleur had moved and needed a slight rotation to clear the frame. Ditto with the b-tension screw adjustment - check this.

Also, phantom shifts could be wear on the cassette, especially if your chain had stretched a lot and was long overdue for a change. Did you check the chain with a chain checker? Was it over 1% stretched? If so, the cassette is probably worn to suit the old chain, so won't ever mesh with a new chain properly.

Good luck. Gear problems are the worst.

My wife mentioned the cable as well. It's a 2014 bike, would that be necessary?
 
Not getting to high gears (ie. chain having trouble going physically down the cassette) would mean too much cable tension. Or it could be a case of gunk in the cable housing making it stick, which is what happened to me after a year on the cx bike.
 
The bike went from a mechanic to me as the only owners. I've never had a problem with it commuting to work all spring or even traipsing down from Canada. It wasn't until a ride a few weeks ago across some rather large hills that I started having issues. Took the chain off to mess with it, decided to get a new chain instead, and here I am.

What's a b-tension screw? Off to google. Oh, that thing. I've never messed with it on any of my bikes. First time for everything.
 
after 9x4 ftp intervals, finished with 3 x 5 intervals of 40/20 at 135% ftp. good god. forgotten how terrible those were.

first interval- hey, maybe i should bump it up a little
second- well, starting to breathe harder
third- 20 seconds to recover, thats it?
fourth- if i can reach the stupid arrow bump FTP down?
fifth- why does 40 seconds take so long kill me now.
 

Mascot

Member
The bike went from a mechanic to me as the only owners. I've never had a problem with it commuting to work all spring or even traipsing down from Canada. It wasn't until a ride a few weeks ago across some rather large hills that I started having issues. Took the chain off to mess with it, decided to get a new chain instead, and here I am.

What's a b-tension screw? Off to google. Oh, that thing. I've never messed with it on any of my bikes. First time for everything.

Silly question, but are you 100% sure that the new chain has the same number of links as the one it replaced? All new chains have extra links so I assume you chopped it down, but could you have mis-measured or mis-counted the links? Also, I asked before if you reset the shifter before you attached/tightened the cable, as that would limit the range of motion.

Maybe some photos would help?
 
Silly question, but are you 100% sure that the new chain has the same number of links as the one it replaced? All new chains have extra links so I assume you chopped it down, but could you have mis-measured or mis-counted the links? Also, I asked before if you reset the shifter before you attached/tightened the cable, as that would limit the range of motion.

Maybe some photos would help?
Will take some photos a little later, just woke up.

But the links are the same - counted them before I put it on. I reset all of the barrel adjusters, if that's what you mean.

One thing that I'm suspicious of the more I think about it us that there was an unusual amount of rub wear on one side of the pulley wheels. Only one of them, only on one side. I'll take a picture of that as well.
 

HTupolev

Member
But the links are the same - counted them before I put it on. I reset all of the barrel adjusters, if that's what you mean.
I think he means having the shifter in its "smallest sprocket" position when the cable is attached to the derailleur. You likely wouldn't have been able to thread the mechanism otherwise, though, so this would only be an issue if you shifted the shifter after running the cable through it but before securing the cable to the derailleur.
 

Mascot

Member
I think he means having the shifter in its "smallest sprocket" position when the cable is attached to the derailleur. You likely wouldn't have been able to thread the mechanism otherwise, though, so this would only be an issue if you shifted the shifter after running the cable through it but before securing the cable to the derailleur.

Yeah, the bolded/underlined is what I meant by 'resetting the shifter', ie the cable isn't already partially wound up within the shifter before the cable was secured at the derailleur, ie some of the shifter's useful range of motion is already used up, if that makes sense.

In other news, I think it's about time I decommissioned The Beast and stripped all the cables, brakes, derailleurs etc off the LTS, cleaned it all up, stuck the mag wheels on it and hung it in my lounge like the beautiful fucking piece of art that it is. Sounds like the perfect winter project.

gt_zpsxxz2gja8.jpg


(hotlink to Google Images which can be flaky, so let me know if you can see this picture)
 
I wonder if the Jeffsy might be getting a 2017 model soon. All the carbon versions of the 2016 are on sale, and there's a bunch sold out.

...I wouldn't have said so given how long it's been out. Though not having a 12 speed model soon seems like missing a trick.
 

Mascot

Member
I wonder if the Jeffsy might be getting a 2017 model soon. All the carbon versions of the 2016 are on sale, and there's a bunch sold out.

...I wouldn't have said so given how long it's been out. Though not having a 12 speed model soon seems like missing a trick.
Is there a 650b version yet?
 
Well yesterday was busier than I anticipated. I got the pictures and just need to get them off the camera and uploaded.

Things I noticed: the pulley wear is on the inside of the top pulley, and the b screw is definitely too tight as there's about half an inch between the pulley and the cassette.
 
I think I'm really getting into this fatbike thing. Riding feels faster than it is because of all the monster trucking you do. Also you can climb out of the seat a lot because there's grip everywhere. It tires you out a lot faster, but that's another good thing because of the extra exercise.

Already made my first "upgrade" too. The seatpost is a single bolt affair, and this far I haven't found one that doesn't slip eventually, which is exactly what happened today. I put in an old Kona twin bolter, problem solved!
 
Looked through all the 2017 bikes and it's looking like only the Spectral really fits the bill for me. Only other option is spending twice the money on a boutique bike.

Hopefully YT come up with some good 2017 stuff as they're pretty much my last option.
 

Mascot

Member
Looked through all the 2017 bikes and it's looking like only the Spectral really fits the bill for me. Only other option is spending twice the money on a boutique bike.

Hopefully YT come up with some good 2017 stuff as they're pretty much my last option.

Buy the Spectral and if the finish really annoys you then get an opaque wrap when you get it InvisiFramed.

Shocking Neon Pink would suit your general demeanour.
 

Mascot

Member
I can heartily recommend the T-130, PT. You can have a drive of mine if you are down this way. It's a large but has got a dropper so can easily accommodate your stumpy little legs.
:p
 
Not all of us were dropped in Miracle Grow as children. :p

(I'm not even that short, lol)

Unrelated - Had a good day at Bikepark Wales today. Only pushed it to 90-95% as I really couldn't risk wrecking again, but I slowly felt like my mojo was coming back a bit.
 

Addnan

Member
Any chinese cycling shoes? There seems to be everything else for significantly cheaper, wondering if there are any decent road shoes from those chinese websites.
 
I have not. That's completely new to me (I ride in the black mountains a bit, but XC stuff). Looks interesting.

Unrelated, I've finished looking at bikes now, and all the ones in the spec range I'm looking at will knock me back about £5k - £6k. Some of those have a major advantage in that they're frame builds (i.e. I pick all the parts I want), but still, that's a crazy amount of money vs the Canyon (which was already pretty expensive).

Only YT can save me now.
 

Mascot

Member
I have not. That's completely new to me (I ride in the black mountains a bit, but XC stuff). Looks interesting.

Unrelated, I've finished looking at bikes now, and all the ones in the spec range I'm looking at will knock me back about £5k - £6k. Some of those have a major advantage in that they're frame builds (i.e. I pick all the parts I want), but still, that's a crazy amount of money vs the Canyon (which was already pretty expensive).

Only YT can save me now.

There are still some excellent deals on brand new 2016 stock from a whole host of manufacturers. It's the perfect time to buy.
 

Mascot

Member
Had some ideas about mounting The Beast. Basically, it involves stripping all cables and components off so it's back to the nude frame and rear shock, removing the front fork, installing the rear mag wheel to the frame and having the front mag wheel 'floating'. Both wheels would be without tyres. I described what I wanted to my nephew who is apparently a whizz on Photoshop, and here's what he came up with. Only cost me a jumbo bag of Haribo, too. That kid'll be doing CGI in Hollywood this time next week.

GT3_zpsj8wrofui.jpg
 
There are still some excellent deals on brand new 2016 stock from a whole host of manufacturers. It's the perfect time to buy.

As I've said before though, I wont be buying a bike without 1x12, which almost none of the 2016 models have.

I could fit it afterwards... but given the groupset is £1,000 on its own, it would need to be one hell of a deal on the original bike.

Edit - Also, stupid puff roadies.
 

Mascot

Member
As I've said before though, I wont be buying a bike without 1x12, which almost none of the 2016 models have.

I could fit it afterwards... but given the groupset is £1,000 on its own, it would need to be one hell of a deal on the original bike.

This is me in the granny gear of my 1x11. You only think you want 1x12.

giphy.gif
 
There are still some excellent deals on brand new 2016 stock from a whole host of manufacturers. It's the perfect time to buy.

On my ride recently I managed to spin easily spin out a 2x11 in my highest gear, and completely run out of gears at the lowest end (forcing me to get off and walk, which almost never happens).

I don't know how small a chainring you're running, but it would need to be teeny to be able to spin at any sort of decent cadence on the hills I've been hitting recently (which would make it useless for handling the flats without blender legging).

Would be interesting in getting your numbers from here for your highest / lowest: http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches
 

Mascot

Member
On my ride recently I managed to spin easily spin out a 2x11 in my highest gear, and completely run out of gears at the lowest end (forcing me to get off and walk, which almost never happens).

I don't know how small a chainring you're running, but it would need to be teeny to be able to spin at any sort of decent cadence on the hills I've been hitting recently (which would make it useless for handling the flats without blender legging).

Would be interesting in getting your numbers from here for your highest / lowest: http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches

10-42 at the back, 42 at the front (and I'd prefer 44, to be honest - I'm a fucking BEAST), 650b, 2.3" tyres.

Edit: Roadies need a new shrine

Proof:

_91974689_bike.jpg
 
Yeah, unless you dropped your cadence down to like 50 (fuck that, I like my knees), then there's no way you'd get up the sort of hills I've been doing. Decent top end on that range though, can't really argue with that.
 
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