Just got back from my cycling tour of Sicily. It was AWESOME! Sicily is a great place to visit and a fantastic place to bike around in. I found out that I am absolutely terrible at going downhill (everyone in our 32-person group passed me every time), but I'm pretty damn good uphill. And there were lots of hills.
The organizers had prepared really good cycles for us. All kinds of brands. I got a Massi racing cycle with a carbon frame. Following us was a guide and three mechanics. One of the mechanics was the guy who actually designed and built the very same bike I got, which was really cool. He always asked how I liked this and that, if it felt good, and so on, and took great care of it. Now I want a bike like that, but it's a tad too expensive...
Here are the trips we took:
Day 1:
Noto - Pozzallo - Modica. 75,4km (really around 80, since I forgot to start the timer on my Garmin until well underway... oh, and my previous record was 35km).
Easy riding at first on good roads in flat terrain. Then very windy near the coast, but still good roads. Long lunch in Pozzallo. The last part to Modica was brutal. It was on a wide, good road, but it went up, up, up for maybe 20kms. Not steep, but going up all the time. Wasn't as liberal with sunscreen as I should, so I got a nasty sunburn. Modica is spectacular, and they make great chocolate there.
Day 2:
Modica - Marina di Ragusa - Scoglitti - Vittoria. 74,49 km (again forgot to start it until getting out of Modica, so the real number should be around 76).
Downhill trough great scenery all the way to the Mediterranean Sea. The coastal part was windy and very sandy. Many scary, sudden sandbanks out on the road. Stop for ice cream in Marina di Ragusa, then more coastline until lunching in Scoglitti. The last part up to Vittoria went on pretty bad side roads, but still easy. Vittoria didn't look very nice, but we stayed at a fancy spa/resort hotel on the outskirts. Got a massage in the evening.
Day 3:
Part 1: Vittoria - Caltagirone - Mirabella (the Garmin shut off at Mirabella, and I couldn't get it to continue on the same route, so this day has two parts on the map)
Part 2: Mirabella - Piazza Armerina. 51,9+10,55+ maybe 5 lost kilometers in the middle, so around 67 in total.
This day was touted as the hardest, so we were quite nervous. First, lots of up and down in a rural landscape before going through a very desolate, more mountainous region with a few poor towns in between. Then a long climb on a good road up to Caltagirone where we had lunch. After that, loooong and fast downhill sections in scary winds before starting the scenic 10 km climb up to Piazza Armerina. That was really tough, but I got into a great rhythm and surprised everyone (and myself) by just powering up. Finally reaching the top was such a great feeling! And the dinner at Peppito's was amazing, definitely the best of the whole trip.
Day 4:
Piazza Armerina - Sicilia Outlet Village - Assoro - Regalbuto. 94,5 kms.
This was supposed to be a 50 km "rest-day" going straight from Piazza Armerina to Regalbuto. But our guides decided to throw in a surprise, and made it much longer. Also, it started raining and got pretty cold. First, a horribly scary, slippery 20 km downhill section in rain and cold down into a big valley, then another 15 or so km to a place called Sicilia Outlet Village. It's just what it says: a "village" in the middle of nowhere with lots of outlet shops. I bought a Nike neck warmer. Then, we got another surprise: lunch was in Assoro, which is where our guide's family comes from. It lies on top of a mountain. The climb was excruciating. Much steeper and more draining than the one the day before. Quite a few people didn't manage to get up to the town. I did, which I'm really proud of. But it wasn't over yet: to get to the restaurant, which was of course right at the top of the town, there was another, even steeper climb. But it was luckily pretty short. We got around 50 pizzas as a reward. A crowd of young guys gathered outside to gawk at our bikes, and they waited all through or lunch to see who we were when we got out again. I felt like Mark Cavendish or something. Pretty sure they were disappointed. After lunch, a long downhill section into a lush valley, then through a town called Agira which had one or two hard climbs. The weather had cleared, and we got a beautiful, rolling landscape the rest of the way to Regalbuto. Almost, but not quite, 100 km that day. I regret not taking an extra route or two. That night, the hotel was hosting a local party with lots of people from babies to well over 80. All the locals came, and everyone danced to very silly music and had a great time.
Day 5:
Regalbuto - Bronte - Castigliano di Sicilia. 78,7 km.
Started with another long downhill section into the valley at the foot of Mount Etna. A woman in the group fell going down. One of the guys is a doctor (luckily!), and examined her on the spot. He didn't see signs of a concussion, so she didn't have to go to a hospital, but got to ride the support car that day. While the rest of us waited, we stole and ate delicious oranges that hung over the fence. I never knew that freshly picked oranges were that much better than store-bought ones. Continuing, we followed the valley a bit to the north, before we were sent onto a side road that just went up and up and up. Probably the steepest climb on the whole trip. And it was a bad road and a dreary place with angry stray dogs, lots of garbage lying around, dead animals everywhere and so on. Not a nice place. Of course, I got a puncture just where the angry dogs were, but they wandered off and I had to push the bike up and wait a while for a new tire. When we finally got all the way to the top, we reached a highway. It started raining, but we got to a town called Bronte without more trouble, and had some ice cream there. Then, downhill into the valley floor again, following it to a little place where we had lunch. It wasn't very good, to be honest. Then we got a long climb, and got to a high-lying featureless mountain plateau with endless road sections. Lots of wind and rain. Quite miserable, but we got through eventually, and went down into an absolutely delightful valley that felt almost English, with long stone walls following the narrow, winding road. Then a final climb up to Castiglione di Sicilia, which is a small, labyrinthine town that it's impossible to navigate successfully.
Day 6:
Castiglione di Sicilia - Giardini Naxos - Taormina. 30 km.
The last day. We could choose between two routes: one long, grueling climb up the sides of Mount Etna, or a leisurely roll down to the beach. I felt I had proved myself enough, so I chose the easy way. Just rolled all the way down. The weather was great, and the landscape beautiful. Got to Giardini Naxos and was at the beach for three hours before the Etna-climbers showed up. By then, I had visited at least two gelaterias, but I still had room for the big lunch. Lastly, the climb up to Taormina. Just a few weeks ago, I would never even consider cycling up that road. But now it was pretty easy. Hard and tiring, but still easy. Had a few great hours in town before an epic last dinner, then one hour's sleep before taking the bus to Catania airport.
Fantastic trip. I'm so glad I went. It was such a success that we'll try to make it yearly. But in different places. Next year, possibly Sardinia or the Italian Marche-region.