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Dirt Rally |OT| Don’t Cut, Be Brave

GodofWine

Member
Question to XB1 owners (I bought this for my dad's bday..71yrs old and he has a steering wheel, and I don't...)

Do you need an XBL sub to access the daily events? Im guessing yes, but since its not multiplayer, perhaps no...whats the scoop.
 

red731

Member
This game = awesome

And I am saying that as a person who knows that cars usually have four wheels.
I am trying to learn.
 
Anyone care to post his PS4 controls settings? Love the game, but damn it's whooping my ass. Having a hard time getting in the top 5 even :/

Go slower to go faster and turn down your sensitivity.

Its always faster to be cautious and navigate the corner/crest/jump than to haul ass and bin it into a tree.
 
Question to XB1 owners (I bought this for my dad's bday..71yrs old and he has a steering wheel, and I don't...)

Do you need an XBL sub to access the daily events? Im guessing yes, but since its not multiplayer, perhaps no...whats the scoop.

Since it's essentially just leaderboards I'd guess it only needs XBL Silver, ie just a connection and not a subscription.

Not 100% on that since I don't own it on console, someone with the game can correct me though.
 
Just finished building my first proper sim rig and i love this game
That quattro has the turning circle of Jupiter but doing having to do Scandy flicks around every corner is so much fun

What are your settings for the Quattro? Ive tried using it a few times but it just doesnt seem to want to change direction at all. Its an understeering pig, which is disappointing because its my favorite rally car of all time.
 
What are your settings for the Quattro? Ive tried using it a few times but it just doesnt seem to want to change direction at all. Its an understeering pig, which is disappointing because its my favorite rally car of all time.

I have pretty much tried every setup from the steam workshop and nothing has solved the understeer (which is kind of expected since the real car is that way).
You just need to work around it. Brake early and use a lot of lock.Also you need to make the back end step out by doing a scandinavian flick or using the handbrake (which i tend to to use since the real car didn't have one).
Once you learn to control the understeer on the slow corners the car becomes a joy to drive because it is so stable on the fast ones.
 
What a fantastic game. I've only done the first set of races with that 60's Mini, but I had the best time. The sounds coming from the car as it rattles along are great. I really felt like the car was going to shake apart.

Took me a couple races to learn not to floor it all the time. Easing off the gas and taking my time made a huge difference. Felt like I was going too slow but the time saved by not getting penalties every 5 seconds really helped.

Can't wait to see the rest of the game.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
After playing Project Cars, Asseto Corsetta, and GT6 with the T300, Dirt Rally is the only game that actually feels close to what a car should feel like. GT6 is second and Project Cars is by far the worst.

The force feedback in project cars is just bad. Doesn't help there are a billion settings that do who the fuck knows what.
 
I have pretty much tried every setup from the steam workshop and nothing has solved the understeer (which is kind of expected since the real car is that way).
You just need to work around it. Brake early and use a lot of lock.Also you need to make the back end step out by doing a scandinavian flick or using the handbrake (which i tend to to use since the real car didn't have one).
Once you learn to control the understeer on the slow corners the car becomes a joy to drive because it is so stable on the fast ones.

Have you tried

1) brake bias heavy towards the rear to get more turn-in then use the on-power understeer through the corner.
2) setup differential on the rear to lock very early then drift-power-oversteer through the low speed corner (if you play with clutch: engage clutch, throttle blip hard, disengage clutch quite hard. If your using pedals, this might require a heel-and-toe technique at which I personally suck, but even with auto-clutch the basic premise works).

also the usual things to prevent understeer like anti-rollbars (soft front, little stiff back), dampers (soft front, stiff back), camber (high negative camber front, normal back) and toe (2 different methods here, depending on which of the above cornering styles you prefer to setup: 1) normal front, high toe-in back or 2) high toe-in front, little toe-out on the rear).

Also: Does the handbrake really work in a normal way in the group B 4WD cars or does it lock all 4 tyres?
 
Go slower to go faster and turn down your sensitivity.

Its always faster to be cautious and navigate the corner/crest/jump than to haul ass and bin it into a tree.

Thanks! Gonna try that.

I expected more from you Steve McQueen.

Hahaha...had to think for a few second but yes :)

gif-steve-mcqueen-Favim.com-1743750.gif
 

Watevaman

Member
A wheel makes the game much, much, much, much harder.

I'm gonna disagree here. A wheel requires more finesse per se than a controller but at the same time allows for smoother inputs and better corrections. With a controller, if you land crooked from a jump and try to correct it, you'll likely put your car off track. With a wheel in that same situation, you can smoothly correct your steering and stay on course.
 
Have you tried

1) brake bias heavy towards the rear to get more turn-in then use the on-power understeer through the corner.
2) setup differential on the rear to lock very early then drift-power-oversteer through the low speed corner (if you play with clutch: engage clutch, throttle blip hard, disengage clutch quite hard. If your using pedals, this might require a heel-and-toe technique at which I personally suck, but even with auto-clutch the basic premise works).

also the usual things to prevent understeer like anti-rollbars (soft front, little stiff back), dampers (soft front, stiff back), camber (high negative camber front, normal back) and toe (2 different methods here, depending on which of the above cornering styles you prefer to setup: 1) normal front, high toe-in back or 2) high toe-in front, little toe-out on the rear).

Also: Does the handbrake really work in a normal way in the group B 4WD cars or does it lock all 4 tyres?

Thanks for the suggestions.
The handbrake on the group b cars (unrealistically) works like on modern cars and locks only the rear wheels.
 
After playing Project Cars, Asseto Corsetta, and GT6 with the T300, Dirt Rally is the only game that actually feels close to what a car should feel like. GT6 is second and Project Cars is by far the worst.

Assetto Corsa by far has best car feel, especially with race cars
 

Onemic

Member
I'm gonna disagree here. A wheel requires more finesse per se than a controller but at the same time allows for smoother inputs and better corrections. With a controller, if you land crooked from a jump and try to correct it, you'll likely put your car off track. With a wheel in that same situation, you can smoothly correct your steering and stay on course.

At the same time though, a wheel requires far more dexterity to be able to quickly adjust for turns/oversteer/understeer. I usually end up in 2nd-3rd place in most events with a controller. On my T300 I generally end up 8th or worse. The amount of little adjustments I have to account for is magnified with a wheel 900 degree rotation(depending on the car) and the force feedback.
 

Makikou

Member
I haven't tried Iracings newer tyre models but I'll take your word for it.

Honestly it's all preference unless you've actually driven at a given track, given vehicle with given weather and could compare all 3. (IRL vs. iR vs AC). IMO

Dirt will be an interesting comparison for sure in the long run.

In other news, it might be that we can functionally only list around the best 30-40 drivers on the unified leaderboards. DiRT Rally website's API is a bit weak in this regard and i can only get CSV's out like 1-10, 11-20, 21-30 etc.
 
At the same time though, a wheel requires far more dexterity to be able to quickly adjust for turns/oversteer/understeer. I usually end up in 2nd-3rd place in most events with a controller. On my T300 I generally end up 8th or worse. The amount of little adjustments I have to account for is magnified with a wheel 900 degree rotation(depending on the car) and the force feedback.

Is it possible to turn down the degree of lock?
 

Watevaman

Member
At the same time though, a wheel requires far more dexterity to be able to quickly adjust for turns/oversteer/understeer. I usually end up in 2nd-3rd place in most events with a controller. On my T300 I generally end up 8th or worse. The amount of little adjustments I have to account for is magnified with a wheel 900 degree rotation(depending on the car) and the force feedback.

Well you just gotta put more time in with the wheel and git gud son. (kidding, I'm pretty smooth with the wheel but I'm just shit at the racing part)
 

red731

Member
This game is training my ass through clenching. Oh my god.
Each race is so exhilirating! That feeling when you do good tho!
 

Onemic

Member
Well you just gotta put more time in with the wheel and git gud son. (kidding, I'm pretty smooth with the wheel but I'm just shit at the racing part)

Oh, I'm not complaining. :p It feels way more authentic to me, so I'm Ok with the learning curve.

Is it possible to turn down the degree of lock?

Yep, just change it in the settings. Im a masochist though, so I want it as real as possible, even if I do terrible.
 

Ardenyal

Member
At the same time though, a wheel requires far more dexterity to be able to quickly adjust for turns/oversteer/understeer. I usually end up in 2nd-3rd place in most events with a controller. On my T300 I generally end up 8th or worse. The amount of little adjustments I have to account for is magnified with a wheel 900 degree rotation(depending on the car) and the force feedback.

Set the wheel to 540 degrees of rotation (or less, whichever feels best) which is around what they use in WRC cars.
 
A simple tip, and correct me if I'm wrong as I'm an average driver: in corners always engage the accelerator (slightly) as going through a corner without your foot on the accelerator will cause the car to lose traction.
 

Onemic

Member
Set the wheel to 540 degrees of rotation (or less, whichever feels best) which is around what they use in WRC cars.

I use soft-lock, which is the most authentic to me since it matches (tries to) what each cars actual rotation is. Most of the non WRC cars dont have 540 degree rotation.
 
Can I get some help with hairpins, folks?

For the life of me I can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong: either I come in too fast and suffer from understeer, or I slow down too much and come to a stop. I'm posting semi-ok times in the clubman, so i feel like if i could address this, I'd be a lot better off.

Can someone post sort of the best sequence of commands to get the car to swing out without slowing to a stop?
 
Can I get some help with hairpins, folks?

For the life of me I can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong: either I come in too fast and suffer from understeer, or I slow down too much and come to a stop. I'm posting semi-ok times in the clubman, so i feel like if i could address this, I'd be a lot better off.

Can someone post sort of the best sequence of commands to get the car to swing out without slowing to a stop?
I found that feathering the throttle and brakes helped at least in the early part of the game when I was using the Mini Cooper. By that I mean pumping the gas or brakes rather than just holding them down. On braking it helped keep the wheels from locking up and it helped grip the road when accelerating.

But this is going to vary from car to car, different surfaces, weather conditions, and the way you have each vehicle tuned. But it helped me on gravel and its a method that - at least for me - you'll benefit from when learning to drive in this game.
 
Could you buy one car and complete the whole game?

I'm loving the Renault Alpine, everything else seems too fast!

Would I stand a chance at Clubman and higher?

Should I just grow some balls?
 
Agreed!

Felt like I nailed this stage, went and checked the leaderboards... "30 secs down on 1st*. ;(

Such an intense experience tho, almost forget what it's like to drive in a straight line!


https://youtu.be/OkanvBpdTqo


Great run!


Could you buy one car and complete the whole game?

I'm loving the Renault Alpine, everything else seems too fast!

Would I stand a chance at Clubman and higher?

Should I just grow some balls?

You absolutely could not compete against better cars.

Grow some balls.
 
Depends what you mean by 'complete'.
Interesting question.

What changes as you go Open > Clubman > Professional > Elite > Master?

Length of rally?
Number of stages?
Difficult of AI?

But if you always pick Renault Alpine don't all other cars driven by the AI come from the same class?
 

xrnzaaas

Member
Interesting question.

What changes as you go Open > Clubman > Professional > Elite > Master?

Length of rally?
Number of stages?
Difficult of AI?

But if you always pick Renault Alpine don't all other cars driven by the AI come from the same class?

Yep the AI gets better so it's tougher to finish in the top three. The rallies are also longer but this isn't really noticeable until you've advanced to Professional (this is when you have to finish 8 SS's instead of 6 plus there's plenty of >10km SS's).

You always race with the cars from the same class (in this case - 60s cars). If you're using one of the weaker cars from a certain class it becomes even more difficult to post competetive times.
 
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