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GAF Photography Thread of 2016

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Fuser

Member
The question is: Is a watermark that actively detracts from the image really the right way to go? I would argue it's not. I would make it way more transparent or smaller than it is, as of right now the first thing my eyes fell on was that watermark. And I found it hard to actually look at the picture without it always being in my view. And that seems a bit counterproductive to what at least I want to do with my pictures.

Aye fair enough, I'll continue to play around with it. Appreciate the feedback. Eventually I'd like a website with my own logo etc, just a place I can say is mine even though nobody will ever go there :p
 

The Chef

Member
Cant believe I've never been in this thread. Subscribed!

Hope its ok to post this here. I posted in the Equipment Megathread but it turns out to not be so mega. Its a ghost town. If someone wouldn't mind checking out my equipment issue and letting me know? Im basically planning on returning it if I cant figure it out.
Thread Post
 
Dat Jesus Christ Pose.
Was in Charlotte Monday for work and took a few pics. Feedback is appreciated as I'm just getting into this stuff.
2016-02-17_06-50-22 by Dr.Horrible33, on Flickr

2016-02-17_06-51-26 by Dr.Horrible33, on Flickr
I like the first one cause of the colors and the light reflecting off of the street, but with the second one I left I'm having a rather hard time trying to figure out what you want me to focus on since a lot of the picture seems to be out of focus. The blue tone is nice at least, if it's just me with that issue I'm sorry. Do you have any programs that would cut back some of the iso noise? I usually tone it down in Lightroom.
 
So, I'm thinking in the next few days I'm going to try and take some photos of my gaming gear, from the controllers to the systems. I'm looking for any ideas of anything specific, if anyone has ideas.
Specifically, I have all Nintendo systems.
 
I like the first one cause of the colors and the light reflecting off of the street, but with the second one I left I'm having a rather hard time trying to figure out what you want me to focus on since a lot of the picture seems to be out of focus. The blue tone is nice at least, if it's just me with that issue I'm sorry. Do you have any programs that would cut back some of the iso noise? I usually tone it down in Lightroom.

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I see what you're saying on the second one. I think it's mostly just the blue tone that I liked with the ice.

I don't currently run anything through lightroom. I'm just trying to take a bunch of pics for the time being before I get into that.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I see what you're saying on the second one. I think it's mostly just the blue tone that I liked with the ice.

I don't currently run anything through lightroom. I'm just trying to take a bunch of pics for the time being before I get into that.
There's no time like the present. Also see if you can find a decent 2.8 wide angle to 50 lens cause it'd help a lot. Kits like that aren't too great for night pics cause you have to crank the iso up a lot. I understand the messing around part though. It's how you learn the limitations of your gear.
 
24979661622_3e4d77f4b0_b.jpg


24730172269_d243a01de2_b.jpg
 
The sharpness on that dogs face, but how narrow is the depth of field? Is it possible to get the whole subject in focus at that aperture?
 
There's no time like the present. Also see if you can find a decent 2.8 wide angle to 50 lens cause it'd help a lot. Kits like that aren't too great for night pics cause you have to crank the iso up a lot. I understand the messing around part though. It's how you learn the limitations of your gear.

Thanks again, I'll have to look into a lens like that at some point. I've only got a 18-55 and 55-210 at the moment.
 
Thanks again, I'll have to look into a lens like that at some point. I've only got a 18-55 and 55-210 at the moment.
You got those with the camera right? Best thing to do is use those to figure out what you like to shoot but after that, it helps to invest in good glass. Though with the A6000, the native lenses are not cheap. That's probably why whenever I look at Sony lenses I'm like "fuck no" when I contemplate getting one of their cameras.
 
You got those with the camera right? Best thing to do is use those to figure out what you like to shoot but after that, it helps to invest in good glass. Though with the A6000, the native lenses are not cheap. That's probably why whenever I look at Sony lenses I'm like "fuck no" when I contemplate getting one of their cameras.

Yep they came with a refurbished bundle. That's pretty much my plan at the moment, keep playing with the lenses, figure out what I like, and then expand from there. As you pointed out, it'll probably be a very expensive expansion, lol. Loving it so far though.
 
Yep they came with a refurbished bundle. That's pretty much my plan at the moment, keep playing with the lenses, figure out what I like, and then expand from there. As you pointed out, it'll probably be a very expensive expansion, lol. Loving it so far though.
Yeah start figuring out which focal lengths you like most. At some point you're going to want either one of these or both of these, cause the picture quality on fast primes like these are great.
Sony 35mm f/1.8 OSS Alpha E-mount Prime Lens
Sony E 50mm f/1.8 OSS Lens
Yeah, it's a 56. On APS-C it's almost equivalent to an 85mm fov on FF.
That's the perfect portrait focal length. I'm eventually getting an 85, that'll be a 127 on my camera, but it's supposed to be an excellent lens though.
 

Koriandrr

Member

Wow love the effect of the lens! Did you dodge tool the eyes though? I think it's a bit too much, it burned the colours. When you have that much sharpness, you really don't need the contrast as well. I personally would lower that, but it's up to you what effect you want to achieve :)
 
Wow love the effect of the lens! Did you dodge tool the eyes though? I think it's a bit too much, it burned the colours. When you have that much sharpness, you really don't need the contrast as well. I personally would lower that, but it's up to you what effect you want to achieve :)
Those images weren't great - the originals weren't very well lit and on the cat one the eyes were slightly out of focus. I just wanted to play with the new lens lol.

I also decided to toy around with bunch of random sliders in lightroom. I want to improve on my post-process skills as I'm generally not happy with the results I get. I agree that it's too contrasty. I did dodge the eyes, I also sharpened them and boosted the saturation in that area slightly.

Here's a comparison between a recent edit (hour ago), the one I used last night, and the raw.
 

Koriandrr

Member
Those images weren't great - the originals weren't very well lit and on the cat one the eyes were slightly out of focus. I just wanted to play with the new lens lol.

I also decided to toy around with bunch of random sliders in lightroom. I want to improve on my post-process skills as I'm generally not happy with the results I get. I agree that it's too contrasty. I did dodge the eyes, I also sharpened them and boosted the saturation in that area slightly.

Here's a comparison between a recent edit (hour ago), the one I used last night, and the raw.

When I want to achieve sharpness I usually don't touch the contrast too much, just play around with highlights, shadows and blacks, then add some clarity for that detail pop. If you want extra extra detail pop, which I personally do only on black and white photos, go in photoshop, make a new layer and give it a high pass filter, but don't overdo the details too much, it's pretty strong, then set it on something like soft light or the one before it (can't remember the name I just scroll trough them lol) and then erase or mask out the stuff that you don't want to be overly sharp, like the background. Just leave it on the most focused parts like faces, don't wanna have too much overall detail in portraits.


I'll show a photo I did this way later, need it approved first before I can post online :D
 

Koriandrr

Member
When I want to achieve sharpness I usually don't touch the contrast too much, just play around with highlights, shadows and blacks, then add some clarity for that detail pop. If you want extra extra detail pop, which I personally do only on black and white photos, go in photoshop, make a new layer and give it a high pass filter, but don't overdo the details too much, it's pretty strong, then set it on something like soft light or the one before it (can't remember the name I just scroll trough them lol) and then erase or mask out the stuff that you don't want to be overly sharp, like the background. Just leave it on the most focused parts like faces, don't wanna have too much overall detail in portraits.


I'll show a photo I did this way later, need it approved first before I can post online :D


Aaaand I can finally post it. This is what I meant:

P2180347-1 by Rossi Ivanova, on Flickr


Also here some of my new shots:
 
Hotel is across the street from the Santa Monica Pier. Finally got out early enough to catch a sunset.


Sunset Santa Monica by brerwolfe, on Flickr


Santa Monica Pier - From Above by brerwolfe, on Flickr

Man, I really need to get to the coast. Dallas is awesome and all, but it's such a concrete jungle it's actually a little difficult to do some street photography here. That said, fantastic pics man!

Also, I'm fncking amazed at Rockstar... if you didn't tell me this was the Santa Monica Pier, I would've assumed this was the pier from GTA5. The coaster and the parking lot layout sold it for me lol.
 

SRG01

Member
Does anyone know how to embed 500px photos in BBcode? I'm starting to become more active with photography after taking a bit of a hiatus...
 

brerwolfe

Member
Also, I'm fncking amazed at Rockstar... if you didn't tell me this was the Santa Monica Pier, I would've assumed this was the pier from GTA5. The coaster and the parking lot layout sold it for me lol.
Seriously. Even just driving on the road adjacent to the beach gives GTA V vibes, really surreal.

I was at Wilshire Country Club early in the week to cover an event. Felt like I knew the course already because of the game. Like, really, really wild how spot on Rockstar were.
 
Very cool!

Is that a 4 light high key setup I see? :D

I'ts pretty cool when people confuse this with a 4 light set up because this is so much easier and gives a similar illusion.

I used to do the typical 4 light set up (and a reflector) for beauty shots like this.

KHS3 by Samuel Vasquez, on Flickr

But it was a hassle to set everything up and it was pretty much studio only.

When I found out the technique used below I dropped the 4 light set up immediately in favor of this. It's been my most requested type of shot since then and it's really easy to pull of on location.

S2Square by Samuel Vasquez, on Flickr

For this I use two lights and big reflector like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SSL920/?tag=neogaf0e-20.

One of the lights on the subject pretty much however you want, I usually do butterfly lighting or Rembrandt, and then the second light behind the reflector which you will use as a background(the translucent side). You will get perfectly white backgrounds and some rim lighting on the subjects sides giving the illusion of the 4 light set up.
 
I really like this one. What kind of color light was this? Looks like your light kit is not cheap or light.

Very very cheap actually. Since I usually shoot on location in any condition sometimes things fall and break so I need lights that aren't much of a hassle to replace.

For this specific set up I used two of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXA7N6A/?tag=neogaf0e-20

One with an umbrella and a yellow gel pointed at the subject ( you can actually see the reflection of the umbrella on the mirrors behind the bottles) and another light with a green gel pointed away from the subject and bounced on the wall to give a green tint to background.
 

Koriandrr

Member
I'ts pretty cool when people confuse this with a 4 light set up because this is so much easier and gives a similar illusion.

For this I use two lights and big reflector like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SSL920/?tag=neogaf0e-20.

One of the lights on the subject pretty much however you want, I usually do butterfly lighting or Rembrandt, and then the second light behind the reflector which you will use as a background(the translucent side). You will get perfectly white backgrounds and some rim lighting on the subjects sides giving the illusion of the 4 light set up.

This is genius! I shoot a lot on location as well, so I totally feel you. And will copy you haha!


Very very cheap actually. Since I usually shoot on location in any condition sometimes things fall and break so I need lights that aren't much of a hassle to replace.

For this specific set up I used two of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXA7N6A/?tag=neogaf0e-20

One with an umbrella and a yellow gel pointed at the subject ( you can actually see the reflection of the umbrella on the mirrors behind the bottles) and another light with a green gel pointed away from the subject and bounced on the wall to give a green tint to background.

Knew it! I use the same flashes. Got 2 so far and had to shoot in some extreme weather with my umbrellas, the wind kept blowing them away, they fell more times than I cared to count, but all I kept thinking is I CAN JUST GET A NEW ONE. Also £10 umbrellas for the win. They bent and broke, but got the job done for the shoot, which is what counts. Lesson: always look for stones to put on your light stands lol.
 
Very very cheap actually. Since I usually shoot on location in any condition sometimes things fall and break so I need lights that aren't much of a hassle to replace.

For this specific set up I used two of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXA7N6A/?tag=neogaf0e-20

One with an umbrella and a yellow gel pointed at the subject ( you can actually see the reflection of the umbrella on the mirrors behind the bottles) and another light with a green gel pointed away from the subject and bounced on the wall to give a green tint to background.
Oh shit so all I have to do is buy a second flash, a second light stand and some fucking Gels!!!!? Or can I just use my cheap LED light and a gel for this? My light set up as of now is are these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-VK750-Speedlite-Display-Cameras/dp/B00GE4MNQA/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456099564&sr=1-3&keywords=neewer+flash
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456099591&sr=1-1&keywords=neewer+led
I just recently decided to take them off my camera, though as of now I need to experiment with the set up to get the most use out of the situation.
 
Oh shit so all I have to do is buy a second flash, a second light stand and some fucking Gels!!!!? Or can I just use my cheap LED light and a gel for this? My light set up as of now is are these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-VK750-Speedlite-Display-Cameras/dp/B00GE4MNQA/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456099564&sr=1-3&keywords=neewer+flash
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456099591&sr=1-1&keywords=neewer+led
I just recently decided to take them off my camera, though as of now I need to experiment with the set up to get the most use out of the situation.

Keep in mind, it's fully manual for the Yongnuo, but yes, they are *very* good lights for the price, albeit heavy.

I have the 560 IV, and the 560 TX (it's just a transceiver to remote control it), and it's awesome, though I'm still bad at lighting in general.
 
Keep in mind, it's fully manual for the Yongnuo, but yes, they are *very* good lights for the price, albeit heavy.
My flash is TTL on camera and straight up manual off the thing so it wouldn't be too bad. I'd need a TTL transmitter for off camera but I've been told it's best to have that in manual off camera any way.
 
My flash is TTL on camera and straight up manual off the thing so it wouldn't be too bad. I'd need a TTL transmitter for off camera but I've been told it's best to have that in manual off camera any way.

Cool thing about the Yongnuos, is that the 560TX will sync the settings across any 560III or IV's that you have, and you can even group them to control them all independently. The 560IV is of course a TX built in, but it's quite a bit heavier than the TX itself, so I'd recommend a 560TX and a 560III, and then maybe a IV later on down so you can use it as either or.
 
Some recent stuff:


Hell, MI by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
I had a hard time getting this at a perspective that was pleasing. This is two images merged together to try getting more height out of the scene.


Hell, MI by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr


Untitled by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr


Untitled by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Also bought an intervalometer recently for star pictures but it's been cloudy recently so here's me playing around with it. I'm sure I've posted similar pictures of this interchange in the past.
 
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