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GAF Photography Thread of 2016

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That's what makes me nervous. I have absolutely no idea, which was why I also wanted a lens which could zoom a lot, but I'll have to do with the equipment I have.
I mean are you doing this for a job or just a hobby? Usually stuff like this should, have decent enough lighting. You might just want to crank the shutter speed to where you under expose it a bit, but not too much and try to fix it in post. As long as the features aren't lost is a sea of iso noise you should be okay.
 

Pachimari

Member
I'm doing it as a hobby, but if I am being set up with Miss Universe herself, I don't want to disappoint her or her/my friends.

I'll try keep the ISO as low as possible, and I'll definitely bring my tripod but what does it mean to under expose? Does it mean the photo should be a little brighter than usual, and then I can eventually fix that in post process?
 
I'm doing it as a hobby, but if I am being set up with Miss Universe herself, I don't want to disappoint her or her/my friends.

I'll try keep the ISO as low as possible, and I'll definitely bring my tripod but what does it mean to under expose? Does it mean the photo should be a little brighter than usual, and then I can eventually fix that in post process?
Under expose means the lighting in the exposure is going to be darker, it's the opposite of over exposure. You pretty much get that by either having your aperture too closed off to not allow enough light in or having too high of a shutter speed. With what I'm recommending is the shutter speed being a little too high to allow for you to stop the motion a little better.
 
Howdy, I've been tasked to find a new (professional) video camera for my work place and was hoping maybe someone in this thread would know a good upgrade. Right now I am using a Panasonic AG-HPX170. It is about 7 years old now and I shoot in 1080i. Would definently move up to 1080p or 4k, which ever is the better price. We don't showcase our videos in anything thing that supports 4k, so my exports will be lowered down.

I understand this is a photography thread, but maybe someone here knows what has come out the last few years. Was going to try here before making a new thread.
 

Pachimari

Member
I have a question. I plan on going out at 3 in the morning (in about 4 hours) and I'll be going to the train station. I want to take a photo of a train coming at me but with some kind of blur, so the photo will show movement.

What kind of settings should I practice with here? I can imagine it have to do with the shutter speed. But do I follow my subject (the train) with my camera or do I let it drive past me while it is taking the shot? Should the shutter speed be very fast? But in that case, I won't achieve the movement/motion blur?

Under expose means the lighting in the exposure is going to be darker, it's the opposite of over exposure. You pretty much get that by either having your aperture too closed off to not allow enough light in or having too high of a shutter speed. With what I'm recommending is the shutter speed being a little too high to allow for you to stop the motion a little better.
Now I see it. And then I can always brighten the photos in post process right.
 
I have a question. I plan on going out at 3 in the morning (in about 4 hours) and I'll be going to the train station. I want to take a photo of a train coming at me but with some kind of blur, so the photo will show movement.

What kind of settings should I practice with here? I can imagine it have to do with the shutter speed. But do I follow my subject (the train) with my camera or do I let it drive past me while it is taking the shot? Should the shutter speed be very fast? But in that case, I won't achieve the movement/motion blur?

Tracking the train and getting a usable result is pretty difficult. So what you're going to want to do is snap it coming into the station towards you. Make sure to imagine where you want the train in the frame, and how much you want it to travel during the shot. If you want the shot to last from before it comes into the frame until it's out of frame, or if you want just enough movement to show that there's movement, etc.

From there, think about how far it needs to move to achieve that result, and how long it will take it to cross that distance. A second? Two seconds? Depends on how much travel across the frame you want. That's your shutter speed, and will be your starting point. From there, adjust ISO and aperture so that you have correct exposure (And depth of field -- you may want to tighten the aperture so that you have more in focus, depending on what you're going for), set it on the tripod, and wait.

And don't worry, it's not this crazy hard deal to figure out how long the shutter speed will be -- unless you have a VERY specific shot in mind, as long as you're in the neighborhood you'll get the look you're going for.

EDIT:
Now I see it. And then I can always brighten the photos in post process right.
While this is true, keep in mind it's almost always better, IQ wise, to over expose and bring it down than it is to under expose and bring it up. If you're over exposing by a bit, all you need to worry about is clipping the highlights (where it has too much light and you lose the details), whereas if you underexpose, you have clipping your shadows, AND noise to worry about.
 

Pachimari

Member
I'm imagining the front of the train to be in the foreground of my photo and with some kind of blue from either the front or sides of the train showing movement. I guess the depth of field will help out here as well. I probably need 3-4 seconds to shoot the train coming toward me.

While this is true, keep in mind it's almost always better, IQ wise, to over expose and bring it down than it is to under expose and bring it up. If you're over exposing by a bit, all you need to worry about is clipping the highlights (where it has too much light and you lose the details), whereas if you underexpose, you have clipping your shadows, AND noise to worry about.
I should over expose and then take care of the highlights during post process?
 
I'm imagining the front of the train to be in the foreground of my photo and with some kind of blue from either the front or sides of the train showing movement. I guess the depth of field will help out here as well. I probably need 3-4 seconds to shoot the train coming toward me.


I should over expose and then take care of the highlights during post process?

If all you're going for is a bit of movement just to show it's moving, then 3-4 seconds is excessive, unless you're from a good distance away. I'd say 3-4 seconds, if using a standard focal length, close enough that the train would take up the majority of the frame, would be enough for a lot of trains to move all the way across. I'd do more like 1/3 of a second for that.

You should always *aim* to expose correctly -- and especially to avoid clipping highlights or shadows. But of the two, over exposing a bit is less bad than under exposing. Usually.
 
EDIT:

While this is true, keep in mind it's almost always better, IQ wise, to over expose and bring it down than it is to under expose and bring it up. If you're over exposing by a bit, all you need to worry about is clipping the highlights (where it has too much light and you lose the details), whereas if you underexpose, you have clipping your shadows, AND noise to worry about.
I actually thought it was the opposite. I guess it depends on the situation and lighting conditions.
 
I actually thought it was the opposite. I guess it depends on the situation and lighting conditions.

Pulling up shadows can bring in a lot of noise, depending on how far you're doing it, whereas pulling down highlights will make them less noisy -- assuming you haven't over exposed anything. And while it can be easy to over expose, typically between trying to make sure your shutter speed and ISO aren't too high, I've found that I typically tend to under expose unless I'm half trying to over expose.

It's pretty marginal between the two though. It's not like underexposing is this horrible accident and then over exposing is awesome or anything.
 
Pulling up shadows can bring in a lot of noise, depending on how far you're doing it, whereas pulling down highlights will make them less noisy -- assuming you haven't over exposed anything. And while it can be easy to over expose, typically between trying to make sure your shutter speed and ISO aren't too high, I've found that I typically tend to under expose unless I'm half trying to over expose.

It's pretty marginal between the two though. It's not like underexposing is this horrible accident and then over exposing is awesome or anything.
I think I tend to underexpose more myself, really depends on what I'm doing. If I'm doing street stuff in manual it's a mixed bag, especially if I'm rushing. My model stuff usually might be a hint underexposed depending on what happens. I usually touch shit up in post regardless. It's only really a hassle if I have no control over lighting.
 
Yeah the only time I'm really even worried about under/overexposing by a bit is when I want the end result to be really clean and noise free, but I typically don't worry about it too much.
 

Pachimari

Member
Skyline looked really cool in the mirrors when I was driving home so got the camera out as soon as I got in. I like the colours:

skyline by Andrew Morgans, on Flickr
This made me stop to reflect and take a deep breath to tell myself: "this is the world we live in." It can be so beautiful at times, which is easy to either forget or take for granted. Very nice photo.

And now, I'm a little uncertain about the shutter speed. The higher the number the faster the shutter speed? I need to write this down to always remind myself.
 
This made me stop to reflect and take a deep breath to tell myself: "this is the world we live in." It can be so beautiful at times, which is easy to either forget or take for granted. Very nice photo.

And now, I'm a little uncertain about the shutter speed. The higher the number the faster the shutter speed? I need to write this down to always remind myself.
With that pic too the a6000 let's you cheat a bit with a hdr feature that lets you take several (3) exposure stops and stiches them together in camera for a better colour range. It's pretty neat.
 

snaffles

Member
This made me stop to reflect and take a deep breath to tell myself: "this is the world we live in." It can be so beautiful at times, which is easy to either forget or take for granted. Very nice photo.

And now, I'm a little uncertain about the shutter speed. The higher the number the faster the shutter speed? I need to write this down to always remind myself.

You are overthinking it. Go down a little early and take some practice shots, see what works and what doesn't. If the picture doesn't turn out great you're in luck as trains tend to arrive at stations pretty regularly so you'll get another shot at it. Just for some perspective, I took 300 photos yesterday when I was out in the yard with my dogs, I kept 16 of them.
 
You are overthinking it. Go down a little early and take some practice shots, see what works and what doesn't. If the picture doesn't turn out great you're in luck as trains tend to arrive at stations pretty regularly so you'll get another shot at it. Just for some perspective, I took 300 photos yesterday when I was out in the yard with my dogs, I kept 16 of them.
At least he's thinking about certain things. When I first started I didn't even know what the exposure meter was and that I should pay attention to it. Everything I shot in the beginning was either badly over or under exposed.
 

NysGAF

Member
These are great, this one is my favourite of the bunch.

Thank you! My wife's aunt and uncle are visiting from Spain for the first time in over 20 years. We don't really expect them back any time soon and we don't have any immediate plans to visit. It's a lot of pressure to get some lasting memory type shots in that sort of situation. There must be a word photographers use for that "once in a lifetime" type shot. Heck, I guess wedding photographers would be the ones to ask about that. How do you guys manage that sort of pressure?
 

Number45

Member
And now, I'm a little uncertain about the shutter speed. The higher the number the faster the shutter speed? I need to write this down to always remind myself.
Just remember that a lot of the time the shutter speed will be displayed as a fraction (beneath 1 second), so it's actually the lower the number the faster the shutter speed.

1 = the shutter is open for 1 second
1/250 = the shutter is open for a 250th of a second

The bottom number is smaller, hence the shutter is open for less time.

Agree with the advice to get out and shoot, but if you want to shoot in manual and actually understand what you're doing an understanding of the exposure triangle is key. I grasped it from a book I read which is actually mostly terrible but the opening chapters did a great job of helping me to understand those elements and the relationship between them. If you Google "understanding the exposure triangle" and do some reading you're sure to find one that makes it click for you - ideally one that will provide practical examples.
 

Pachimari

Member
I have a fantastic book specifically made for the Canon 60D and I just read through the exposure triangle part some days ago. I can tend to have a hard time remembering smaller details though, and I think I might be over thinking it sometimes.

But now that it was mentioned that 1 = 1 second, 1/250 = 250th of a second, I do remember my "teacher" going through that. He also had to explain it to me two-three times.

I remember writing down notes so those should be on the computer over there. Should check it out on Wednesday. I think I have a hard time having a clear picture of the exposure triangle in my head, and thus I might be over thinking it when I actually go and shoot the photos.
 
I have a fantastic book specifically made for the Canon 60D and I just read through the exposure triangle part some days ago. I can tend to have a hard time remembering smaller details though, and I think I might be over thinking it sometimes.

But now that it was mentioned that 1 = 1 second, 1/250 = 250th of a second, I do remember my "teacher" going through that. He also had to explain it to me two-three times.

I remember writing down notes so those should be on the computer over there. Should check it out on Wednesday. I think I have a hard time having a clear picture of the exposure triangle in my head, and thus I might be over thinking it when I actually go and shoot the photos.
It should already be there in the viewfinder.
 

Fëanorian

Neo Member
I'm late to the conversation, but you can definitely achieve some sweet long exposure images with a kit lens. Gotta get creative with what you have and just try and see what works and what doesn't work.

I took these with my kit lens, rather heavy kit lens since it is a 18-200mm.

Noel by abrahamsahuayo, on Flickr
NYC long exposure noise by abrahamsahuayo, on Flickr
subway spring 2 by abrahamsahuayo, on Flickr
Grand Central Station by abrahamsahuayo, on Flickr
farm new by abrahamsahuayo, on Flickr
Water Tower Morning Exposure by abrahamsahuayo, on Flickr
Barn reflection 2.35:1 by abrahamsahuayo, on Flickr

Okay, that last two images were taken with a 35mm 1.8. I will now stop spamming the thread with old images.
 
I'm doing it as a hobby, but if I am being set up with Miss Universe herself, I don't want to disappoint her or her/my friends.

Do you know when/what/where you're shooting exactly?

From doing some small research here at work(coz I clock out in a few mins lol), Pia's only going to be in the Philippines for a few days. One in Manila for the crowning of the new Miss Philippines and the other a potential visit to her hometown in Cagayan among others.

If you're shooting during Miss Philippines, then you won't have to worry about lighting. The lighting inside Araneta should be fine, what'll be bad is your location relative to the contestants.

If you're shooting a side event to Miss PI or even her visit to Cagayan, then you'll be set even with a kit lens. They're going to have a set area for photographers to hang out in and it's usually really up close to the stage.

But if you're just doing this as a hobby, without media credentials or access to the photog area, I think the lighting will still be fine but of course you're gonna need to zoom in and if you've got a 75-300mm lens you'll definitely be fine regardless of which event you'll be shooting.

My advice, like I said earlier, just go out there and shoot. If you're going to worry about all these variables all the way up to the event, NONE of your pictures are gonna turn out good by your own standards and you're not gonna have fun at the event and also at photography. What's important is that you shot pictures outside of pressure and you're going to end up liking your pictures and thereby enjoying everything along with it.
 
Went down to the beach tonight in the freezing cold to snap a few frames away. Despite not doing it very often, casual photography is kind of my happy place. I could spend hours just trying different compositions if my tripod head stick didn't snap off :/

07-Mar-2016-6 by Ben Grady, on Flickr
 

Pachimari

Member
Do you know when/what/where you're shooting exactly?

From doing some small research here at work(coz I clock out in a few mins lol), Pia's only going to be in the Philippines for a few days. One in Manila for the crowning of the new Miss Philippines and the other a potential visit to her hometown in Cagayan among others.

If you're shooting during Miss Philippines, then you won't have to worry about lighting. The lighting inside Araneta should be fine, what'll be bad is your location relative to the contestants.

If you're shooting a side event to Miss PI or even her visit to Cagayan, then you'll be set even with a kit lens. They're going to have a set area for photographers to hang out in and it's usually really up close to the stage.

But if you're just doing this as a hobby, without media credentials or access to the photog area, I think the lighting will still be fine but of course you're gonna need to zoom in and if you've got a 75-300mm lens you'll definitely be fine regardless of which event you'll be shooting.

My advice, like I said earlier, just go out there and shoot. If you're going to worry about all these variables all the way up to the event, NONE of your pictures are gonna turn out good by your own standards and you're not gonna have fun at the event and also at photography. What's important is that you shot pictures outside of pressure and you're going to end up liking your pictures and thereby enjoying everything along with it.
I plan on getting real close to Miss Universe because my contact is good friends with her, and as I am doing a favor for him, he would like to help me out as well. The coronation night is a very nice bonus and I can't wait to enjoy it but my primary reason for being there is to talk with Pia, because it would be nice to know her a little before eventually going for a trip to USA to hang out with her and some other contacts (it's actually one network of people). I do know she's very busy flying back and forth from New York but they're trying to set me up with her, so here's hoping for the best.

I don't know if I will be in the photographers area. It's a TV host from the Philippines who are getting me into the event and making sure I have a place there.

I'm relieved to hear, that the lighting conditions would seem to be optimal. :)

Also I have no 300mm lens. Only a 55-200mm. Welp? =/

[edit] I actually just messaged my contact to get clarification if I'll be close to the stage among the photographers or further away.
 

sneaky77

Member
Fëanorian;197825623 said:
I'm late to the conversation, but you can definitely achieve some sweet long exposure images with a kit lens. Gotta get creative with what you have and just try and see what works and what doesn't work.

I took these with my kit lens, rather heavy kit lens since it is a 18-200mm.
.

I really like the watertower one, did you just move the tripod while you were taking it?
 

sneaky77

Member
I have a fantastic book specifically made for the Canon 60D and I just read through the exposure triangle part some days ago. I can tend to have a hard time remembering smaller details though, and I think I might be over thinking it sometimes.

But now that it was mentioned that 1 = 1 second, 1/250 = 250th of a second, I do remember my "teacher" going through that. He also had to explain it to me two-three times.

I remember writing down notes so those should be on the computer over there. Should check it out on Wednesday. I think I have a hard time having a clear picture of the exposure triangle in my head, and thus I might be over thinking it when I actually go and shoot the photos.

In my opinion this is a really decent book to understand a little more. http://www.amazon.com/dp/0817439390/?tag=neogaf0e-20

But I will echo everyone else, shooting makes you better, I would like to think my photography has improved over the years lol.

edit: must be nice to have those kind of contacts lol
 

Pachimari

Member
In my opinion this is a really decent book to understand a little more. http://www.amazon.com/dp/0817439390/?tag=neogaf0e-20

But I will echo everyone else, shooting makes you better, I would like to think my photography has improved over the years lol.

edit: must be nice to have those kind of contacts lol
I'm reading like five different books at the moment (not only about photography lol) and this one you linked seems very interesting and with a good price tag. I might order it this month.
 
In my opinion this is a really decent book to understand a little more. http://www.amazon.com/dp/0817439390/?tag=neogaf0e-20

But I will echo everyone else, shooting makes you better, I would like to think my photography has improved over the years lol.

edit: must be nice to have those kind of contacts lol
Yeah just shooting and analyzing your mistakes and searching for an answer to them helps a lot. I made so many noob errors for the first couple of months and quite honestly still do. Photography is definitely a life long learning experience.
 

Pachimari

Member
It's now 3 in the morning and I'm heading out. There's not a single soul outside. Maybe I can get some good shots along the way as well. It's exciting nonetheless.
 

thespot84

Member
I just signed up for 500px (been on flickr for a bit) and since they have groups I took the liberty of creating a neogaf group:

https://500px.com/groups/neogaf

Feel free to join. It's public and there's not much I can do in the way of moderation so post away! Would be cool to have a pic from here for the cover photo. anyone have suggestions?

It's now 3 in the morning and I'm heading out. There's not a single soul outside. Maybe I can get some good shots along the way as well. It's exciting nonetheless.

Good luck!
 

Pachimari

Member
I just signed up for 500px (been on flickr for a bit) and since they have groups I took the liberty of creating a neogaf group:

https://500px.com/groups/neogaf

Feel free to join. It's public and there's not much I can do in the way of moderation so post away! Would be cool to have a pic from here for the cover photo. anyone have suggestions?



Good luck!
I also just signed up yesterday, thanks for doing this! Will join the group when I get back home. Apparently, I can't log in on the 500px mobile app, because it doesn't allow me to log in with a Google account.
 
I plan on getting real close to Miss Universe because my contact is good friends with her, and as I am doing a favor for him, he would like to help me out as well. The coronation night is a very nice bonus and I can't wait to enjoy it but my primary reason for being there is to talk with Pia, because it would be nice to know her a little before eventually going for a trip to USA to hang out with her and some other contacts (it's actually one network of people). I do know she's very busy flying back and forth from New York but they're trying to set me up with her, so here's hoping for the best.

I don't know if I will be in the photographers area. It's a TV host from the Philippines who are getting me into the event and making sure I have a place there.

I'm relieved to hear, that the lighting conditions would seem to be optimal. :)

Also I have no 300mm lens. Only a 55-200mm. Welp? =/

[edit] I actually just messaged my contact to get clarification if I'll be close to the stage among the photographers or further away.

Yeah, that's one important thing you need to know. On-location shoots need to be planned correctly, if you know all these variables beforehand, then you can get a better idea of what gear to bring and it'll be successful.

Like right now I'm planning for a shoot tomorrow that I was asked to do right as I was about to leave work, it's just a quick fashion shoot for a company I'm working with and I'm doing a majority of my location scouting through Google maps and Streetview lol. Plus it's supposed to rain like hell tomorrow so I can't really decide on the spot until lunch so I'm also talking with some people to see if I can potentially get a small lighting setup and a simple white backdrop to bring to their office.

Your 55-200mm should be fine actually since you've got an APS-C camera.

And consider me jelly! I'd love to be able to do a shoot with a Miss Universe, especially one from my home country.
 

Pachimari

Member
I'm getting some really bad results with moving cars here in the dark (there are lots of lamps though). I have it at 1"6, f6.3, ISO 200.

Also the whole Miss Universe thing is no sure lock yet. But if I even get inside for the Miss Philippines event and can take some pics of Pia on stage from a distance with zoom, then I think I should be content with what I can get.

Anyway, I'll have photos with me from there no matter what heh.
 

thespot84

Member
I'm getting some really bad results with moving cars here in the dark (there are lots of lamps though). I have it at 1"6, f6.3, ISO 200.

Also the whole Miss Universe thing is no sure lock yet. But if I even get inside for the Miss Philippines event and can take some pics of Pia on stage from a distance with zoom, then I think I should be content with what I can get.

Anyway, I'll have photos with me from there no matter what heh.

Are you trying to get the car to blue or the background?
 

thespot84

Member
Is that 16"? I've not shot that kind of thing before but I would imagine that the light hitting the sensor from the stuff behind the car far outweighs the car itself at that kind of exposure time (ie the car is in a particular spot for .5" while the background is there for 15.5", so you see almost all background and no car). Your light quality is great so you'd have to adjust something if you went down in exposure time, but I would mess with it where the frame has car half the time and background half the time and see if you can notice the car then.

Snowshoed this weekend (mostly hiking on snow...)
P3057617.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr
P3057664.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr


What do you guys prefer among these 4 shots?
P3057733-HDR.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr
P3057687.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr
P3057678-Pano.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr
P3057675-Pano.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr

And between these two?
P3057750-2.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr
P3057750.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr
 

vern

Member

Beautiful place!

Out of the group of 4 I prefer the first one and the last one... with the last one probably being the best except I'm not a huge fan of the vignetting on it. The second is good too but I don't really think foreground is very pleasant to look at. The orange tape fence thing especially kind of distracts me from the beautiful mountain.

Out of the group of two I like the second one, first just feels a little cramped to me compared to the openness of the second.
 

thespot84

Member
Beautiful place!

Out of the group of 4 I prefer the first one and the last one... with the last one probably being the best except I'm not a huge fan of the vignetting on it. The second is good too but I don't really think foreground is very pleasant to look at. The orange tape fence thing especially kind of distracts me from the beautiful mountain.

Out of the group of two I like the second one, first just feels a little cramped to me compared to the openness of the second.

Thanks, always helpful to get another set of eyes on it. With the second one I was going for something that provided a 'road' for the viewer's eye, starting at the foreground in the snow and working out towards the peak, I see what you mean about the fence though. Maybe I'll remove it lol.

Does removing help enough?
P3057687-Edit.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr

Also here is the pano with no vignette:

P3057675-Pano.jpg by adamwolach, on Flickr
 

Koriandrr

Member
Not sure if this is the sort of thing people want to see posted but I did see some milky way shots earlier so I thought people might like these too.

So here's a few astro photos from this season.


NGC7000 (data from Nov.) by Olli Arkko, on Flickr

55 minutes total exposure

Moon mosaic 21-1-2016 by Olli Arkko, on Flickr

mosaic from around 100GB of raw video data

Pleiades (11/10/2015) reprocessed by Olli Arkko, on Flickr

1h 55min total exposure

Rosette Nebula in H-alpha by Olli Arkko, on Flickr

1h 20min total exposure

The Fireworks Galaxy (NGC 6946) and the star cluster NGC 6939 by Olli Arkko, on Flickr

just shy of 3h total exposure

All of these shot with a Nikon D7000 and most of them from extremely heavy light pollution too. Only the pleiades shot is from a half dark sky site type location. Rest of them are backyard shots.

fap fap fap...


I love space porn photos. Please keep posting. This is amazing.
 

Koriandrr

Member
Double post, but I did a cosplay thing again. For anyone who likes Undertale, this is (I'm hoping) hilarious. We did the Mettaton scene from the kitchen. Used loads of props too. This is probably the most elaborate set I've made. We had loads of props, an actual kitchen to work in, which proved slightly difficult, especially after my bed shoot, as it's not all white haha. I do think my lighting could've been better in the end, but I'm happy with the results.

tumblr_o3p1pcOpPy1v72ce8o1_1280.jpg


tumblr_o3p1n2aWLD1v72ce8o1_1280.jpg


tumblr_o3p1g9rxq11v72ce8o1_1280.jpg

Sorry for tumblr links, I haven't uploaded them to flickr yet. Full gallery on my fb.
 
I don't see a problem. How'd you do the background for the last one and did you shoot the second one laying on the ground? That's an interesting angle and background actually.
 

Koriandrr

Member
I don't see a problem. How'd you do the background for the last one and did you shoot the second one laying on the ground? That's an interesting angle and background actually.

That's all photoshop hahah.. You can see more of the normal setup without the over the top photoshop on the fb page link (shameless plug)

So, this is from behind the scenes of the shots from below:

We obviously had a lot of fun. And yes, I was below her haha


P.S.: Excuse my PJs, I never bother with clothes or makeup when I shoot at my place lol
 
That's all photoshop hahah.. You can see more of the normal setup without the over the top photoshop on the fb page link (shameless plug)

So, this is from behind the scenes of the shots from below:


We obviously had a lot of fun. And yes, I was below her haha


P.S.: Excuse my PJs, I never bother with clothes or makeup when I shoot at my place lol
That looked like such a fun shoot, I think one of the shots had less vibrant lighting, but that's about it.
 

Pachimari

Member
Is that 16"? I've not shot that kind of thing before but I would imagine that the light hitting the sensor from the stuff behind the car far outweighs the car itself at that kind of exposure time (ie the car is in a particular spot for .5" while the background is there for 15.5", so you see almost all background and no car). Your light quality is great so you'd have to adjust something if you went down in exposure time, but I would mess with it where the frame has car half the time and background half the time and see if you can notice the car then.

Right, there's no real light lighting the body of the car, so it will naturally disappear.
The photos were shot with different iso's, shutter speed's and aperture's and the car were coming towards me in all of the photos.

Does this mean, that I should try make the shutter speed as fast as possible, for the car not to disappear, and still get the lights? I tried everything from shooting immediately to letting the camera take the shot for 15 seconds.
 

Pachimari

Member
Here's another shot of mine. This was taken a few years back, and on auto unfortunately, as I could have taken down the ISO to 100, but back then I didn't know better. Still, it's one of my best shots of an animal, and next month I expect to share shots of wild snakes as well.


Nature of Beauty by Madridista, on Flickr
 
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