• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

Gaming PC Build help

M

Masta_Killah

Member
After a botched order with ibuypower where Fedex lost the package and ibuy customer service seems to not be taking any phone calls (I have been calling for the last week without ever getting into contact with anyone helpful), I have decided to build my own computer. My budget is <$1000, including monitor, hdd, etc..

So far this is what I've come up with:

case- COOLER MASTER Centurion
$39.99

mobo- GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L
$99.99

cpu- Intel Core 2 Duo E4500
$124.99

gpu- POWERCOLOR X1950PRO256MBAC2 Radeon X1950PRO 256MB
$119.99

psu- Rosewill RP550-2 ATX12V v2.01 550W
$56.99

memory- G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) $44.99

hdd- Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA
$99.99

dvd- LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write Black SATA $32.99

os- Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD
$109.99


monitor- Acer AL2016WBbd Black 20" 5ms DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor
$189.99

*All from Newegg



This is my first build, so I'm not too sure if the parts are compatible or not and whether I have enough connections. What do you guys think? I'm not sure about whether the gpu will work with the mobo, as I haven't read anyone from newegg run it with an ati card. Also, the g skill ram looks to be a great deal, but gigabytes website doesn't show that it's compatible with the mobo. I did a search online and found that a few were running g skills with the mobo. Are the g skills fine, or should I go with another set(cheaper would be better)? The mobo has 4 sata connections, but I'm not sure if I'll need more.


Sorry for the noobish questions, but this will be my first build and I wanted to make sure everything would work together. :D
 
M

Mr. Pointy

Member
It's good. though since you're using Vista, you should probably stretch and get a Radeon HD 3850, since you can exploit DX10.
 
V

Vaporak

Member
I'd either cut some corners somewhere, or wait until you've got $50 more to spend to get a Radeon 3850, it's really not worth buying anything slower than that imo. The difference between a X1950pro and a 3850 is very large, easilly worth the $50.
 
J

JoeMartin

Member
Get a better brand name PSU too. Rosewill makes budget crap.

The PSU is quite literally the most important part of the computer, and if that goes faulty it can take the rest of your computer with it. 550 watts is enough to run that setup, but make sure it has ample power rating on the 12V rail.

You should be looking for no less than a power rating of 50A on your 12V rail. Note that most PSU's these days have multiple 12V rails to split the load. It offers no indication of reliability or performance whether or not it has more rails. If it does have more than one, make sure their collective rating is over 50A.
 
F

Firestorm

Member
zoku88 said:
Listen to him. I get Vista Enterprise (32 or 64) for free through my university :D
Click to expand...

Yeah, my Vista I'm using was free from my uni too. Too bad it's Business and not Ultimate.
 
N

NovemberMike

Member
JoeMartin said:
You should be looking for no less than a power rating of 50A on your 12V rail. Note that most PSU's these days have multiple 12V rails to split the load. It offers no indication of reliability or performance whether or not it has more rails. If it does have more than one, make sure their collective rating is over 50A.
Click to expand...

Um, 1 watt = 1 volt * 1 amp. So 50A of 12v means 600watts.

No.
 
Z

Zaraki_Kenpachi

Member
"It's good. though since you're using Vista, you should probably stretch and get a Radeon HD 3850, since you can exploit DX10."


There's nothing wrong with an x1950 pro if he doesn't want to spend a lot. I would get a better version though, there's a lot of better brands than powercooler and you can find it cheaper too.
 
J

JoeMartin

Member
NovemberMike said:
Um, 1 watt = 1 volt * 1 amp. So 50A of 12v means 600watts.

No.
Click to expand...

Really? That's really weird, because my 550 watt PSU seems to have 4 12V rails @ 18A. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but 18 multiplied 4 times is... ah, yes, 72. So by your calculamations I should have... 864 watts of power!

But I don't. The PSU will only put out 550 watts. The high amps on the 12V rail provide a much more clean, efficient 550 watts than a lower rated rail will. My Seasonic runs generally at about 85% efficiency, the Rosewill he's looking at runs somewhere near 65%.

It's all about headroom when it comes to power.

In synopsis: Yes.
 
M

Masta_Killah

Member
I was thinking of upgrading the gpu next year. With the 9 series coming out, the 8 series should be dirt cheap come holiday 08'. I was also going to wait until dx10 ramps up and more games come out for it(pc games aren't aren't released as frequently as console games). The psu was one of the things I was concerned about. Thanks for the input on that. I'll need to change that to something better. Any suggestions? I need something that is budget friendly.
 
Z

Zaraki_Kenpachi

Member
"I was thinking of upgrading the gpu next year. With the 9 series coming out, the 8 series should be dirt cheap come holiday 08'. I was also going to wait until dx10 ramps up and more games come out for it(pc games aren't aren't released as frequently as console games). The psu was one of the things I was concerned about. Thanks for the input on that. I'll need to change that to something better. Any suggestions? I need something that is budget friendly."


Unless you going sli or something(or if rosewill is a worse brand than I know of) you should be fine. You don't need an obnoxiously high wattage psu. And the ampage on the 12v rails is fine too on that psu.
 
J

JoeMartin

Member
I'm not suggesting that he get an obnoxiously high wattage PSU, far from it actually. That would be a waste of money and I'm not about that. What I'm suggesting is that he get the most reliable, solid PSU he can afford in his desired/required wattage range.

I know the PSU seems like an inconsequential part of the machine when you want to put together a gaming rig on a budget, but I can't stress enough how important it is to get a quality power source.

The more amps you have running through your 12V rail the cleaner and more efficient your 550 watts are going to be. Sure a 550 watt PSU with a 12V@38A can technically put out 550 watts of power, but it is going to be DYING if you put it up that high under any remotely stressful load. Then you're just asking to fry your PSU and probably some of your other computer components along with it. The more amps you have running through it the better it will be able to deliver a strong, consistent stream of power to your PC while under load, and that is drastically important to protecting your investment in your PC.
 
N

NovemberMike

Member
JoeMartin said:
Really? That's really weird, because my 550 watt PSU seems to have 4 12V rails @ 18A. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but 18 multiplied 4 times is... ah, yes, 72. So by your calculamations I should have... 864 watts of power!

But I don't. The PSU will only put out 550 watts. The high amps on the 12V rail provide a much more clean, efficient 550 watts than a lower rated rail will. My Seasonic runs generally at about 85% efficiency, the Rosewill he's looking at runs somewhere near 65%.

It's all about headroom when it comes to power.

In synopsis: Yes.
Click to expand...
You have 864 watts of power that could potentially come off your 12v rails, but your powersupply itself is only rated for 550watts. So, for example, you could have all 550 watts going to 12v rails, or have some split up onto the 5v and 3.3v rails.

The important thing with rails is that no individual rail goes over its rated capacity (so for your 12v @ 18A, no rail should have more than 216 watts drawing from it. The more practical requirement is that you don't have any rails under ~16-18 amps (depending on how much you want to put on it).
 
Z

Zaraki_Kenpachi

Member
"I'm not suggesting that he get an obnoxiously high wattage PSU, far from it actually. That would be a waste of money and I'm not about that. What I'm suggesting is that he get the most reliable, solid PSU he can afford in his desired/required wattage range.

I know the PSU seems like an inconsequential part of the machine when you want to put together a gaming rig on a budget, but I can't stress enough how important it is to get a quality power source.

The more amps you have running through your 12V rail the cleaner and more efficient your 550 watts are going to be. Sure a 550 watt PSU with a 12V@38A can technically put out 550 watts of power, but it is going to be DYING if you put it up that high under any remotely stressful load. Then you're just asking to fry your PSU and probably some of your other computer components along with it. The more amps you have running through it the better it will be able to deliver a strong, consistent stream of power to your PC while under load."


No. There is nothing wrong with that power supply unless the brand name is crap. Those specs are more than acceptable. Show me what he's putting in this machine that is requiring a bigger psu.
 
B

BolognaOni

Member
JoeMartin said:
Really? That's really weird, because my 550 watt PSU seems to have 4 12V rails @ 18A. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but 18 multiplied 4 times is... ah, yes, 72. So by your calculamations I should have... 864 watts of power!

But I don't. The PSU will only put out 550 watts. The high amps on the 12V rail provide a much more clean, efficient 550 watts than a lower rated rail will. My Seasonic runs generally at about 85% efficiency, the Rosewill he's looking at runs somewhere near 65%.

It's all about headroom when it comes to power.

In synopsis: Yes.
Click to expand...

It's not logic it's physics. Power=Voltage*Current. By definition. Your PSU cannot actually push 18A on all 12V rails... at least not for very long. More likely this is the peak current that any single rail is able to deliver, but honestly, when it comes to PSU raitings, who knows. Half the time, as far as I can tell, some guy in China just picks a number and sticks it on there. The whole reason for more than one line anyway is just to meet UL requirements (no more than 240VA on any given exposed trace or wire, hence the 18A limit imposed by intel). Frequently they are not even separate sources, they are just run through separate current regulator.

High amperage rating does NOT = clean power, high bandwidth on the voltage control circuit does (note, this little tidbit is usually not listed on box). This was true a while ago, but with new efficiency requirements, passive over design of circuits is thing of the past (at least in good PSUs).

Efficiency is a good thing to look at with power supplies though, right now definately buy something that's rated "E80", meaning it's over 80% efficient, and meets a few other requirements. Basically, this means the PSU is using a more advanced power circuit, and is less likely to be a total piece of crap.

Honestly, you don't need to worry all that much about having tons of headroom, as long as you're getting decent PSU. 500W is plenty to run a single HD, graphics card, etc, unless you're going to do a bunch of overclocking or something like that. Seasonics are great, I've been fine with Enermax as well (their noisetaker series, I think), and am currently running an Antec that came with my case, but it has a noisy inductor, so I can't recommend it, although other people seem to like their other models. Fortron is a great budget option, although I haven't used one in several years... Newegg carries them, I think.
 
J

JoeMartin

Member
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
No. There is nothing wrong with that power supply unless the brand name is crap. Those specs are more than acceptable. Show me what he's putting in this machine that is requiring a bigger psu.
Click to expand...

Okay, did you even read my post? It doesn't sound like it, as I'm not suggesting that he get a bigger PSU. Moreover, your argument is "You're wrong because I said so." Thanks, though.

NovemberMike said:
You have 864 watts of power that could potentially come off your 12v rails, but your powersupply itself is only rated for 550watts. So, for example, you could have all 550 watts going to 12v rails, or have some split up onto the 5v and 3.3v rails.

The important thing with rails is that no individual rail goes over its rated capacity (so for your 12v @ 18A, no rail should have more than 216 watts drawing from it. The more practical requirement is that you don't have any rails under ~16-18 amps (depending on how much you want to put on it).
Click to expand...

Technically, yes my PSU could push 864 watts (not for very long though), but the PSU won't put out more than 550 watts total. Again, the key to reliable, consistent power is headroom. Pushing a power supply to its absolute limit is dangerous. That's when parts start cooking, you clip electrical signals; bad things generally happen.

The difference is that my PSU can safely handle a 550 watt load for an extended period of time while the Rosewill, though technically able to produce 550 watts of power, cannot. Because of its high combined rail amperage, my PSU has a generally cleaner, more efficient (stronger) electrical current being generated, so it does not have to work as hard to produce its rated power.

And that's what is important when it comes to clean power: Headroom. I deal with it all the time, from computers to bass guitar amps. Not necessarily because you want to put all that "extra" power to work, but because you want your power source to not have to work as hard to produce the power you need. It results in cleaner, more efficient, more reliable power, which minimizes the chance of your power supply shorting and taking other electrical components with it.

Headroom, headroom, headroom.
 
B

BolognaOni

Member
JoeMartin said:
The more amps you have running through your 12V rail the cleaner and more efficient your 550 watts are going to be. Sure a 550 watt PSU with a 12V@38A can technically put out 550 watts of power, but it is going to be DYING if you put it up that high under any remotely stressful load. Then you're just asking to fry your PSU and probably some of your other computer components along with it. The more amps you have running through it the better it will be able to deliver a strong, consistent stream of power to your PC while under load, and that is drastically important to protecting your investment in your PC.
Click to expand...

OK, I'm going to bite here, and maybe a few of us can learn something... I'll do my best to put things in layman's terms.

For DC, Power = Voltage * Current. Period. Unless you have a crap ton of harmonics (better how you don't in your computer PSU!).

Computer components want a STEADY voltage- they will draw more or less current depending on how much power they want at a given moment. Under computational loads, they need more power, they draw more current. Voltage is constant, current changes depending on power needs. Having more current rating on a PSU just means it can produce more power.

You can't, as far as I know, buy a PSU with more than 18A per 12V rail rated, at least not if you want to have Intel give it their stamp of approval. You also can't get a UL (safety organization) certification if you put more than 20A on a 12V line, and no UL cert means pretty much no one in the US is going to sell it.

Back in the bad old days of yore, the circuits used to produce voltages for computers were not very "smart", or efficient. So, if you wanted better performance, you just put in a bigger PSU, and if you didn't get close to the rating, you were good, you got cleaner voltages because the system wasn't operating near its limit, and components lasted longer because they weren't being stressed near their capacity.

Enter the 21st century. Power converters get "smarter", they use more active devices, allowing for more precise control of the circuit function. This makes it possible to design a circuit that can operate at rated power like a champ. Why? Because it's actually being controlled, instead of just running free. These PSUs are also much more efficient, because they control more closely the flow of energy in the circuit, and are able to minimize waste.

The end conclusion for a system builder, is that a more modern, more efficient PSU can be pused closer to its ratings without detriment to system performance. In fact, some of these circuits actually run BETTER (peak efficiency, etc) near rated load! So, you don't have to put in twice your peak power draw anymore. Of course, if you want to anyway, they are more than happy to sell you a more expensive PSU...
 
N

NovemberMike

Member
Your power supply can't put out 864 watts because of the stuff behind the rails, not the rails themselves. Efficiency also has nothing to do with the rails* (it occurs on the other side, where the powersupply interacts with the wall). In fact, every independant test I have seen shows that a large single rail is better than multiple smaller rails (which leads to a lower total rail amperage).

As for headroom, Assuming 30 watts for the Mobo, 80 for the CPU, 100 for the Graphics card and 20 each for the Hard Drives, he is still looking at 250watts max usage (and I think I am overestimating here). He has more headroom with a 550 watt PSU than he will ever need.

*Probably not nothing, but I have seen nothing that suggests that any of the rail configurations is more efficient than the others.
 
Z

Zaraki_Kenpachi

Member
"Okay, did you even read my post? It doesn't sound like it, as I'm not suggesting that he get a bigger PSU. Moreover, your argument is "You're wrong because I said so." Thanks, though."


There's nothing wrong with that power supply the specs are fine. It's not an obnoxiously inefficent supply where he has to worry about frying components. You keep stating he needs the most efficent for his costs but there's nothing wrong with that rosewill.

"Headroom, headroom, headroom."


Headroom is produce by getting a bigger psu whether it be amperage wise or wattage wise it's still a bigger psu.
 
M

Masta_Killah

Member
Mad Decent said:
Do not buy from ibuypower... worst reputation in pc gaming.

ibuypower = cyberpower

Same company.

Read these reviews.. its crazy

http://www.epinions.com/Cyberpower_...pinion_list/display_~reviews/pp_~1/pa_~1#list

This one is really bad:
http://www.epinions.com/content_406980824708

STAY AWAY FROM IBUYPOWER AND CYBERPOWER
Click to expand...

When I called, I actually got through with one of the reps(only once after calling for 4 hours straight). I told him that I had a claim number from fedex and that fedex had told me that ibuy would need it. After explaining this to him and ready to give him the claims number, he quickly dodged the question and told me that the cops would be coming to my house and that the cops would be investigating the situation. I thought the story was ridiculous and asked for the reps name, only to get a quick "thank you" and hang up!

Later that week, I called again to try and talk to another rep. This time I was connected to another gentlemen. I gave the same speech and was ready to give the claim number. This time the rep said that they could not look up my info because the "system" was down. Turns out that by system, they actually mean their website, which was also down. Then he said that I should call back later. I asked him when, and he said sometime next week, as they were in the process of moving. I asked where they were moving to and he hung up the phone!

Luckily, I ordered it with an amex and amex is currently investigating it for fraud. Will hopefully get my money back in a week or two, which is what I am going to use for this build.
 
N

NovemberMike

Member
BolognaOni said:
You can't, as far as I know, buy a PSU with more than 18A per 12V rail rated, at least not if you want to have Intel give it their stamp of approval. You also can't get a UL (safety organization) certification if you put more than 20A on a 12V line, and no UL cert means pretty much no one in the US is going to sell it.
Click to expand...

+12V@70A

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256022

They still make them all right.
 
B

BolognaOni

Member
JoeMartin said:
The difference is that my PSU can safely handle a 550 watt load for an extended period of time while the Rosewill, though technically able to produce 550 watts of power, cannot. Because of its high combined rail amperage, my PSU has a generally cleaner, more efficient (stronger) electrical current being generated, so it does not have to work as hard to produce its rated power.

And that's what is important when it comes to clean power: Headroom. I deal with it all the time, from computers to bass guitar amps. Not necessarily because you want to put all that "extra" power to work, but because you want your power source to not have to work as hard to produce the power you need. It results in cleaner, more efficient, more reliable power, which minimizes the chance of your power supply shorting and taking other electrical components with it.

Headroom, headroom, headroom.
Click to expand...

First of all, no, your PSU probably cannot put out 864W, at least not for any given amount of time. Your voltages will probably start to collapse as you pull more and more current, and thus the total power output will go down anyway. Each 12V rail is rated at 18A, this means no single rail can source more than 18A, it does not mean all of them can push 18A at the same time.

The circuit in a bass amp and a computer PSU could not be more different. One is linear, the other is switch mode. One has been the same since 1922, the other is much more modern.

And yes, you are correct for the bass amp case, but this does not apply to modern switch mode converters. Apples and oranges.
 
M

Mr. Pointy

Member
^
Don't have an Antec. I have some awesome no name 650W server PSU that, before I replaced them, had a pair of fans that were louder than most jet turbines.
 
J

JoeMartin

Member
NovemberMike said:
+12V@70A

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256022

They still make them all right.
Click to expand...

You can get them as high as 12V@115A. But a 1200 watt PSU is completely excessive unless you're running 8800 Ultra's tri-SLI'd.

BolognaOni said:
First of all, no, your PSU probably cannot put out 864W, at least not for any given amount of time. Your voltages will probably start to collapse as you pull more and more current, and thus the total power output will go down anyway. Each 12V rail is rated at 18A, this means no single rail can source more than 18A, it does not mean all of them can push 18A at the same time.
Click to expand...

I think that's exactly what I said, minus the jargon portion.

BolognaOni said:
The circuit in a bass amp and a computer PSU could not be more different. One is linear, the other is switch mode. One has been the same since 1922, the other is much more modern. And yes, you are correct for the bass amp case, but this does not apply to modern switch mode converters. Apples and oranges.
Click to expand...

I would hardly call a tube amplifier and class D amplifier the same, but I get your point. Still, headroom is headroom when it comes to power, switch based or otherwise. Push ANY power source to its limits and bad things happen. By all means, get the smallest power supply you need, I'm just saying you'll be better off in the long run with some room to spare.
 
D

dark10x

Digital Foundry pixel pusher
I'd actually recommend Vista 64, if you're going Vista already. It really does run faster and has had virtually no compatibility issues. The ONLY issue I've run into with the 30 or so games that I've tested has involved Starforce (older versions of Starforce do not work at all with Vista 64 - as in, Windows will not allow it to install). That's not even necessarily a bad thing, though, now is it?
 
O

Oldschoolgamer

The physical form of blasphemy
Got a question. My rig is probably going to look similar to the OP's, but, I'm going to be going with the 8800GT. What is a good mobo to have? I can find the other parts I want to get, with relative ease, but, I don't want to make a mistake when I buy the stuff. Also, which company should I get it from? EVGA, or someone else?
 
O

-OGz-GLUTEUS_MAXIMUS

Member
I'd up the video card to one with 512 Mb. At 256, you're not going to be able to run many of the newer high-end games at anything better than low-medium settings.
 
Z

Zaraki_Kenpachi

Member
"I'd up the video card to one with 512 Mb. At 256, you're not going to be able to run many of the newer high-end games at anything better than low-medium settings."


Umm, sure you can. I've been using a 256mb x1950pro and I've been able to run everything high (except obviously crysis) but I got about 30 in everything since I never felt an dips and some with settings at max. There is a big enough price gap between the 256 and the 512 that he might as well spend a little extra and get an 8800GT if that's the case. He just wants cheap and efficent to last him about a year which is what I did.
 
kbear

kbear

Member
I need some help as well. I just came across the cyberpowerpc site and have configured a system. I don't have a lot of money to spend on this... what do you think? Total comes out to be $574. I'm going to use my 27" Olevia LCD TV as the monitor, 1366x768 native res. Is 8600 GT 512 good enough? I plan on getting good 9 series card around Fall. So this will do till then?


# CAS: ($20 off Mail-in Rebate) Xion III Gaming Mid-Tower 420W Case with Side Window [-3] (SILVER COLOR)
# CS_FAN: Extra Case Cooling Fan [+3] (2 x Fans [+3])
# CPU: (Sckt775)Intel® Core™ 2 Duo E6550 CPU @ 2.33GHz 1333FSB 4MB L2 Cache 64-bit
# CD: 16X DVD ROM [-21] (BLACK COLOR)
# FREEBIE_CU1: FREE Game! Lost Planet: Extreme Condition
# FAN: INTEL LGA775 CERTIFIED CPU FAN & HEATSINK
# HDD: Single Hard Drive (80GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 8MB Cache 7200RPM HDD [-11])
# MOTHERBOARD: MSI G31M-F Intel G31 Chipset LGA775 FSB1333 DDR2 Mainboard
# MEMORY: (Req.DDR2 MainBoard)2GB (2x1GB) PC6400 DDR2/800 Dual Channel Memory (Corsair Value Select or Major Brand)
# NETWORK: ONBOARD 10/100 NETWORK CARD
# OS: NONE - FORMAT HARD DRIVE ONLY
# PRO_WIRING: Professional Wiring for All WIRINGs Inside The System Chasis with High Performance Thermal Compound on CPU [+19]
# POWERSUPPLY: STANDARD CASE POWER SUPPLY
# RUSH: NO; READY TO SHIP IN 5~10 BUSINESS DAYS
# SERVICE: STANDARD WARRANTY: 3-YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS 24/7 LIFE-TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT
# SOUND: 3D WAVE ON-BOARD 5.1 SOUND CARD
# USB: Built-in USB 2.0 Ports
# VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT 512MB 16X PCI Express [+53] (Major Brand Powered by NVIDIA)
# _PRICE: (+574)
 
C

Cheeto

Member
kbear said:
I need some help as well. I just came across the cyberpowerpc site and have configured a system. I don't have a lot of money to spend on this... what do you think? Total comes out to be $574. I'm going to use my 27" Olevia LCD TV as the monitor, 1366x768 native res. Is 8600 GT 512 good enough? I plan on getting good 9 series card around Fall. So this will do till then?
Click to expand...
You'll do pretty well for the time being with that setup. At that res you shouldn't have problems running most games on high, some you might have to dial back a little bit. You'll want to upgrade the GPU and PSU though later.
 
M

Masta_Killah

Member
kbear said:
I need some help as well. I just came across the cyberpowerpc site and have configured a system. I don't have a lot of money to spend on this... what do you think? Total comes out to be $574. I'm going to use my 27" Olevia LCD TV as the monitor, 1366x768 native res. Is 8600 GT 512 good enough? I plan on getting good 9 series card around Fall. So this will do till then?


# CAS: ($20 off Mail-in Rebate) Xion III Gaming Mid-Tower 420W Case with Side Window [-3] (SILVER COLOR)
# CS_FAN: Extra Case Cooling Fan [+3] (2 x Fans [+3])
# CPU: (Sckt775)Intel® Core™ 2 Duo E6550 CPU @ 2.33GHz 1333FSB 4MB L2 Cache 64-bit
# CD: 16X DVD ROM [-21] (BLACK COLOR)
# FREEBIE_CU1: FREE Game! Lost Planet: Extreme Condition
# FAN: INTEL LGA775 CERTIFIED CPU FAN & HEATSINK
# HDD: Single Hard Drive (80GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 8MB Cache 7200RPM HDD [-11])
# MOTHERBOARD: MSI G31M-F Intel G31 Chipset LGA775 FSB1333 DDR2 Mainboard
# MEMORY: (Req.DDR2 MainBoard)2GB (2x1GB) PC6400 DDR2/800 Dual Channel Memory (Corsair Value Select or Major Brand)
# NETWORK: ONBOARD 10/100 NETWORK CARD
# OS: NONE - FORMAT HARD DRIVE ONLY
# PRO_WIRING: Professional Wiring for All WIRINGs Inside The System Chasis with High Performance Thermal Compound on CPU [+19]
# POWERSUPPLY: STANDARD CASE POWER SUPPLY
# RUSH: NO; READY TO SHIP IN 5~10 BUSINESS DAYS
# SERVICE: STANDARD WARRANTY: 3-YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS 24/7 LIFE-TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT
# SOUND: 3D WAVE ON-BOARD 5.1 SOUND CARD
# USB: Built-in USB 2.0 Ports
# VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT 512MB 16X PCI Express [+53] (Major Brand Powered by NVIDIA)
# _PRICE: (+574)
Click to expand...


Before you buy from cyber, please read my post and the links on it(#25). Also, cyber and ibuy are basically the same, so beware.
 
kbear

kbear

Member
Masta_Killah said:
Before you buy from cyber, please read my post and the links on it(#25). Also, cyber and ibuy are basically the same, so beware.
Click to expand...
Wow.. I mainly skimmed through this thread and totally missed this. Holy crap... I best find a new option. Any other sites that have similar prices and customization options? other than Dell
 
O

Oldschoolgamer

The physical form of blasphemy
I think I finally got all of the necessary parts. I'll be buying them throughout the month, but, here is what it looks like, so far.

Case: COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-WW Black/Silver Aluminum Bezel, SECC Chassis ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail

HD: Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD5000KSRTL 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - Retail

Monitor: Acer AL2016WCbd Black 20" 2ms(GTG) DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 800:1 - Retail

Graphics Card: EVGA 512-P3-N802-AR GeForce 8800GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail


Speakers (i'll get better ones later): Logitech R-10 4 Watts 2.0 Speakers - Retail

psu: OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI ATX12V 600W Power Supply 100 - 240 V CB/CE/CSA/UL/FCC - Retail

Keyboard/mouse: Microsoft 4GC-00002 Silver/Black 102 Normal Keys Wireless Ergonomics Laser Desktop 4000 Mouse Included - Retail

Media card reader: Rosewill RCR-102 52-in-1 USB 2.0 Black Card Reader - Retail

Memory(might get another stick): CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail

Motherboard: ASUS P5K-E LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor - Retail

OS: Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM

Totaling around: $1,338.89 atm.
 
M

Masta_Killah

Member
kbear said:
Wow.. I mainly skimmed through this thread and totally missed this. Holy crap... I best find a new option. Any other sites that have similar prices and customization options? other than Dell
Click to expand...

Your best bet is to go get the parts yourself. You might be able to actually get a better system for the same exact amount. Check out my op as a starter. The gpu Im getting is rated faster then the 8600gt, is around $120-160(from all indications, the 256MB and 512MB are close to each other performance wise and 512 seems only beneficial if you're running dx10, which these gpu's aren't), and is considered one of the best dx9 cards out there. Also, since you have a monitor, you can ditch the monitor in my op and save an extra $200. The mobo I choose seems to be very noob friendly and is easily overclockable. The cpu I choose is also pretty good at oc'ing and I've read reviewers on newegg pushing the thing to 3.2 or higher on stock cooling,etc.. You also chose to not get an OS, so you can remove that and save another $100. And if you order from newegg, don't live in Calif,NJ., or one other midwest state, you get the items tax free. Also, some of those parts I chose have free shipping and have additional rebates, so that's even more savings.

So far, without the monitor and OS, the total comes out to $729 sh/tax incl (considering you live in Calif.).

Here is a site to see where the gpus stand next to each other. Just make sure to choose the resolution you will most likely be running, and not a res that you'll never use.
http://www23.tomshardware.com/graphics_2007.html

This one is for the cpu's. I don't think the e4500 is there, but read the reviews on them and see how well they perform.
http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html

I also suggest using youtube to see how the gpu stacks up. Not for image quality, but to see what res they are running, what features are enabled, and to see first hand if it stutters or not.
 
J

J-Rzez

Member
Oldschoolgamer said:
I think I finally got all of the necessary parts. I'll be buying them throughout the month, but, here is what it looks like, so far.


Totaling around: $1,338.89 atm.
Click to expand...

I'd up the ante slightly while you're at it and pay the difference to upgrade your vid card there to the EVGA 8800GTS 512mb. I did, and i'm very happy I did. Toms hardware had a decent review on a basic one and so far I love it. It's still a double bay unit, which is nice since it easily pumps the heat out of the back like the older 8800 series. Card runs real cool, real quiet, and it smokes my old 8800 GTS SC 640 in gaming and in video replay.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130312
$330 after rebate.

Also, check this deal on Ram:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820146692

Their ram is very solid, never a single issue, and after rebate it's $88 for 4gb of ram :D
 
kbear

kbear

Member
Masta_Killah said:
Your best bet is to go get the parts yourself. You might be able to actually get a better system for the same exact amount. Check out my op as a starter. The gpu Im getting is rated faster then the 8600gt, is around $120-160(from all indications, the 256MB and 512MB are close to each other performance wise and 512 seems only beneficial if you're running dx10, which these gpu's aren't), and is considered one of the best dx9 cards out there. Also, since you have a monitor, you can ditch the monitor in my op and save an extra $200. The mobo I choose seems to be very noob friendly and is easily overclockable. The cpu I choose is also pretty good at oc'ing and I've read reviewers on newegg pushing the thing to 3.2 or higher on stock cooling,etc.. You also chose to not get an OS, so you can remove that and save another $100. And if you order from newegg, don't live in Calif,NJ., or one other midwest state, you get the items tax free. Also, some of those parts I chose have free shipping and have additional rebates, so that's even more savings.

So far, without the monitor and OS, the total comes out to $729 sh/tax incl (considering you live in Calif.).

Here is a site to see where the gpus stand next to each other. Just make sure to choose the resolution you will most likely be running, and not a res that you'll never use.
http://www23.tomshardware.com/graphics_2007.html

This one is for the cpu's. I don't think the e4500 is there, but read the reviews on them and see how well they perform.
http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html

I also suggest using youtube to see how the gpu stacks up. Not for image quality, but to see what res they are running, what features are enabled, and to see first hand if it stutters or not.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this info. I'm going to take your advice and get one of the top-end DX9 cards like the X1950 PRO you listed. It just makes a lot more sense. Not only are they tried and tested but they're a bargain because DX10 cards are the hot market now. That X1950 blows away the 8600 GT in the FPS calculator.
 
S

SRG01

Member
Normally I'd recommend the x1950 Pro, but with the new cards coming out later this year, it's better to just invest in a Dx10 card, especially with the 38XX series.
 
kbear

kbear

Member
Here's what I'm thinking... similar to the OP's except I have DVD Burner, OS, and monitor. Total is $656.75 shipped!

pclist.jpg
 
D

Davidion

Member
kbear said:
Here's what I'm thinking... similar to the OP's except I have DVD Burner, OS, and monitor. Total is $656.75 shipped!
Click to expand...

1. Case already has a power supply. ;)
2. For that price you can get a 320, look for the Maxtor 300gbs w/ "extra 20g"
3. Spend some more and upgrade to the 3850
4. Get another brand. For that price, Cooler Master works.
5. Looks good
6. I think you can get an Abit ip35-e for cheaper
7. Looks good
8. Looks good

Tweak it a little and you'll have a solid rig at $700. $800 gets you that 8800gt in there which will let you run anything.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

"I Need a New PC!" 2024. 240 Hz OLEDs, PCI-Gen5, Path Tracing & Ray Reconstruction.
8 9 10 11 12
560
32K
3liteDragon replied
  • Locked
"I Need a New PC!" 2023. 6-24 Cores, Frame Generation, Enhanced Ray Tracing & Direct Storage.
36 37 38 39 40
2K
113K
DGrayson replied
Question for people who regularly build PCs
14
1K
JohnnyFootball replied
New pc build, help,advice and alot of noob questions
39
18K
V4skunk replied
How Much It Would Cost To Build A PC As Powerful As The Xbox One X? (2019 edition)
3 4 5 6 7
327
21K
Damian black replied
Top Bottom