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How to Invest for Retirement

That's a good mix, with the only one I'd really question being the total stock market index, which overlaps with the large and small cap. But it's also a way to get midcap exposure. Personally, if it's really a total market index, I'd just go all into that and drop the other two. (The market overall skews large cap.) You've got great fund expenses and selection.

Thanks. I'll have to look into the fund more, but it does seem like it is a total US index and it is rated as essentially large cap overall. Not sure how much stock is put into the Morningstar ratings, but I think the large cap fund has a bit higher rating. I think I would want to keep quite a bit exposure into the small cap fund, though. So if they are that similar, maybe it also makes sense to come out of the total index and put some more of the allocation into the small cap and large cap funds.
 

BumRush

Member
One more question:

I have my money in 3 places right now: banks, 401K and one single brokerage firm. I think the best way to force myself to research and understand the markets is to open my own account with a few thousand dollars to start. Is there a site you recommend? Options House seems to get high reviews but having never heard of them outside of their parent company has me a little hesitant. Thoughts?
 
One more question:

I have my money in 3 places right now: banks, 401K and one single brokerage firm. I think the best way to force myself to research and understand the markets is to open my own account with a few thousand dollars to start. Is there a site you recommend? Options House seems to get high reviews but having never heard of them outside of their parent company has me a little hesitant. Thoughts?

Is your bank married to a brokerage firm? If so, find out if your bank accounts qualify you for special discounts with said affiliated brokerage firm's discount/self-directed platforms.
 

BumRush

Member
Is your bank married to a brokerage firm? If so, find out if your bank accounts qualify you for special discounts with said affiliated brokerage firm's discount/self-directed platforms.

I could use Merrill Edge, but their rules for getting free trades are very restrictive.
 

tokkun

Member
Mostly agree but just want to clarify on this section that you don't want "the tax tail to wag the investing dog". You can't claim foreign tax credits but they're still growing tax free. You definitely need to do actual calculations to see what ends up giving you more money in the end.

They aren't growing tax free. You are paying foreign taxes, it's just taken out of the dividends before they get to you.
 

AntoneM

Member
Just a heads up to fellow federal employees (if there are any here). The Treasury has officially had to start taking money from the TSP G fund (government securities) to cover expenses until the debt ceiling can be raised.

This will not, apparently, affect any investment growth you may have going into the G fund (like, what you are investing will still grow the same and eventually get backfilled) but it's a pretty bullshit thing.

Didn't think any other place on GAF would understand this.

https://www.fedsmith.com/2017/03/21...owing-from-the-g-fund-to-offset-debt-ceiling/
 
There are good Fidelity equivalents for every Vanguard fund from what I've seen. These have 0 transaction fees.

If you're using Vanguard, don't buy Fidelity. If you're using Fidelity, don't buy Vanguard.
Not for state-specific municipal bond funds. Fidelity has funds for states that Vanguard doesn't cover.
 
Just getting started on this today. Used the app Robinhood to buy 1 initial share each of the two vanguard market index funds, although I could only buy the ETF of one of them. Any advice or things to watch out for? Got my VNQI for $53 & the VTI for $121. Will see how they do while I keep putting away each paycycle into my savings, then start moving them over slowly but surely.
 
Just getting started on this today. Used the app Robinhood to buy 1 initial share each of the two vanguard market index funds, although I could only buy the ETF of one of them. Any advice or things to watch out for? Got my VNQI for $53 & the VTI for $121. Will see how they do while I keep putting away each paycycle into my savings, then start moving them over slowly but surely.
Any benefit in buying vanguard's stocks through Robinhood app vs just making an account with them?
 

tokkun

Member
Any benefit in buying vanguard's stocks through Robinhood app vs just making an account with them?

The benefit would be if you want to use their smartphone app or if you are already using Robinhood for trading other stocks and don't want another account to manage.

Vanguard already offers free trades on their ETFs if you have an account, so there is no cost difference. The Vanguard account is also more flexible, because you can buy mutual funds and you can use it for an IRA.
 

Emerson

May contain jokes =>
The benefit would be if you want to use their smartphone app or if you are already using Robinhood for trading other stocks and don't want another account to manage.

Vanguard already offers free trades on their ETFs if you have an account, so there is no cost difference. The Vanguard account is also more flexible, because you can buy mutual funds and you can use it for an IRA.

Vanguard also has a mobile app.

If you're just buying Vanguard funds, you should really just make an account with them.
 
Just getting started on this today. Used the app Robinhood to buy 1 initial share each of the two vanguard market index funds, although I could only buy the ETF of one of them. Any advice or things to watch out for? Got my VNQI for $53 & the VTI for $121. Will see how they do while I keep putting away each paycycle into my savings, then start moving them over slowly but surely.

How is RobinHood?
 
The benefit would be if you want to use their smartphone app or if you are already using Robinhood for trading other stocks and don't want another account to manage.

Vanguard already offers free trades on their ETFs if you have an account, so there is no cost difference. The Vanguard account is also more flexible, because you can buy mutual funds and you can use it for an IRA.
Thanks everyone,
 

BumRush

Member
So, I plan on opening up my own account at either Scottrade or Options House.

I'll fund it with $5000 to start and then fund it regularly in perpetuity. How does that work? Can you have money auto-transfer into your account every month? Does it stay in a cash-equivalent account until you choose what funds to purchase? Trying to avoid getting hit with a trade fee every month.

Thanks! You guys are super helpful.

Edit: I researched it...no auto transfer, but no fee or penalty keeping in cash when it moves over.
 
They aren't growing tax free. You are paying foreign taxes, it's just taken out of the dividends before they get to you.

Yes I think that's obvious. Growth is referring to capital gain, dividends are not capital gain.
You pay more on the dividends because you can't claim the tax credit. You pay nothing on the capital gain because it's in a tax shelter vs. being in a taxable account.

The point is that you have to figure out which is more valuable. I don't know all the specifics for the USA. It is very likely in Canada that international equities would be the last thing I would kick out of tax shelters.

I just want to make it clear to people that they really need to think about what is going to be the most efficient placement of assets via math and not just think "I can get tax credits if I move these here so it is better". There are more factors than that at play.
 

AP90

Member
There are good Fidelity equivalents for every Vanguard fund from what I've seen. These have 0 transaction fees.

If you're using Vanguard, don't buy Fidelity. If you're using Fidelity, don't buy Vanguard.

This. There are some decent equivalents that fidelity offers. You can buy vanguard funds with a transaction fee ($75), but it's not really worth Imo.

One thing I hate/dislike about fidelity compared vanguard funds is that the expense fees are definitely higher.

You mean initial investment minimums? I've noticed that they have different classes for each fund. Normal funds might be around 2500, premium may be 10,000, etc.

For my Roth w/fidelity, the minimums I have seen are at $2500, and I believe there are penalties if you move money out of the fund below the required minimum (not 100% sure if it's for every mutual fund or not)

With my Roth, I am investing in
Fncmx, Nasdaq composite(60%) and Fpurx, puritan fund(40%)

And with my 457 at work, I'm able to access the vanguard funds,

So I am in Vpmax, Viiix and Vwenx, and currently have some money set aside in the stable (treasury notes equivalent) fund, for those correction events to reinforce the 3 funds above (30%).
 

fatty

Member
Reading this thread and seeing how helpful it has been motivated me to create a thread on financial freedom and early retirement:

Working toward Financial Freedom

I've included the following videos on investing as I've found them helpful:

Bogleheads® investment philosophy
How The Economic Machine Works by Ray Dalio

If you know of any others, please let me know and I will add them. And if you have anything to share, please do, there has been a lot of great teaching in this thread and I want that to continue.
 
How is RobinHood?

First time doing any sort of investing, honestly, so I have no reference to compare it against, but everything has been VERY hassle-free & intuitive. Finding the things I wanted to buy was super simple, transferring funds between my accounts to my RobinHood account was near instant, the app links articles to any stock I look up that is related to it, and the tracker for my position has been super intuitive.

I understand I should switch to the Vanguard app, but i'll likely just do that once I am in a position to open an IRA with them.
 

Redders

Member
My first post in here after reading this thread recently, so thought I'd jump in.

I'm looking for a bit of advice/judgment on my fund choices and any improvements that I could/should make to this. I'll include as much info as I think is needed but ask way if you need any more. This thread does seem US centric but I assume there's some UK folks here but that doesn't really matter.

I'm 24 next month and currently contribute 15% (£250 a month) of my salary into the below with Hargreaves Lansdown externally from my employer who just pay 3% into their fund (Employer doesn't match contributions and fund choices are limited)

Legg Mason IF Royce US Smaller Companies - £47.50 - 0.80% charge - Up 34.97%
Marlborough Special Situations - £37.50 - 0.80% charge - Up 33.06%
Marlborough UK Micro-Cap Growth - £37.50 - 0.75% charge - Up 30.76%
HL Multi-Manager European - £52.50 - 1.46% charge (Ouch) - Up 20.88%
Jupiter Asian Income - £75.00 - 0.69% charge - Up 8.06%

Reason for the current allocation is the Jupiter fund is most recently opened (May 2016) so was trying to rebalance away from being too weighted towards UK as largest amount is in the UK funds. From reading the thread the first thing would be to get an index fund of some sort and get rid of the European fund? Any advice would be great!
 
Legg Mason IF Royce US Smaller Companies - £47.50 - 0.80% charge - Up 34.97%
Marlborough Special Situations - £37.50 - 0.80% charge - Up 33.06%
Marlborough UK Micro-Cap Growth - £37.50 - 0.75% charge - Up 30.76%
HL Multi-Manager European - £52.50 - 1.46% charge (Ouch) - Up 20.88%
Jupiter Asian Income - £75.00 - 0.69% charge - Up 8.06%
All these seem very expensive to me. To compare, I'm also in Europe, and my most expensive fund is 0,40% (the other two being 0,20% and 0,07%). These charges are going to eat up your return over the years, so I'd start looking into cheaper alternatives.

Also, 5 funds seems a bit much. Why the Asian one for example? And why the focus on small companies? I'd pick a Total Market one to follow world trends, a UK one and a US one.
 

Redders

Member
All these seem very expensive to me. To compare, I'm also in Europe, and my most expensive fund is 0,40% (the other two being 0,20% and 0,07%). These charges are going to eat up your return over the years, so I'd start looking into cheaper alternatives.

Also, 5 funds seems a bit much. Why the Asian one for example? And why the focus on small companies? I'd pick a Total Market one to follow world trends, a UK one and a US one.

Yeah just looking I didn't originally think the ones below 1% were too expensive but seeing what you get for the index ones they are.

Asian one, just as my funds were all leant towards western so thought it would be prudent to have a fund aimed at a different region. No real reason for focus on smaller companies those were just funds I chose when looking around, I'm pretty sure a couple were an option at a previous company I worked out when I had a pension there, so just carried on when I transferred the pension.

So as an example it would be worth looking at the below 3 funds and similar? Granted on the 1st 2 I wouldn't be able to buy that many units does that particularly matter?

http://www.hl.co.uk/funds/fund-disc...sults/v/vanguard-us-equity-index-accumulation - US
http://www.hl.co.uk/funds/fund-disc...vanguard-ftse-uk-all-share-index-accumulation - UK
http://www.hl.co.uk/funds/fund-disc...eral-international-index-trust-c-accumulation - International, although this does have 50% invested in the US so not massively international.
 
Yeah just looking I didn't originally think the ones below 1% were too expensive but seeing what you get for the index ones they are.

Asian one, just as my funds were all leant towards western so thought it would be prudent to have a fund aimed at a different region. No real reason for focus on smaller companies those were just funds I chose when looking around, I'm pretty sure a couple were an option at a previous company I worked out when I had a pension there, so just carried on when I transferred the pension.

So as an example it would be worth looking at the below 3 funds and similar? Granted on the 1st 2 I wouldn't be able to buy that many units does that particularly matter?

http://www.hl.co.uk/funds/fund-disc...sults/v/vanguard-us-equity-index-accumulation - US
http://www.hl.co.uk/funds/fund-disc...vanguard-ftse-uk-all-share-index-accumulation - UK
http://www.hl.co.uk/funds/fund-disc...eral-international-index-trust-c-accumulation - International, although this does have 50% invested in the US so not massively international.
With an international fund you are going to have some overlap. 60% overlap between the two is a lot in the US though, so maybe you don't need the US one and can just limit yourself to 2 funds. But maybe someone else can give some better advise here.

Personally I have a Total Market, Euro and S&P 500 one. The Total Market one and S&P 500 has overlap, but I don't mind it that much myself.

The amount you buy is not important, since it is about the growth. Whether you have 10 shares worth $100 or 1 worth $1000 doesn't matter. It's all about the percentages in the end.

But those fees are a lot better, so I'd definitely check out if you can shift to something like that. The difference in the end between funds with a 0.8% and a 0.08% like the one you linked over 30 years, $500 a month contribution is over $90,000.
 

Redders

Member
With an international fund you are going to have some overlap. 60% overlap between the two is a lot in the US though, so maybe you don't need the US one and can just limit yourself to 2 funds. But maybe someone else can give some better advise here.

Personally I have a Total Market, Euro and S&P 500 one. The Total Market one and S&P 500 has overlap, but I don't mind it that much myself.

The amount you buy is not important, since it is about the growth. Whether you have 10 shares worth $100 or 1 worth $1000 doesn't matter. It's all about the percentages in the end.

But those fees are a lot better, so I'd definitely check out if you can shift to something like that. The difference in the end between funds with a 0.8% and a 0.08% like the one you linked over 30 years, $500 a month contribution is over $90,000.

I'm thinking I'll do 3 funds as I would like to have a Euro one, either US, UK and Euro or International, UK and Euro.

I did think that, it just appears better having a larger amount of units

Which is a huge difference, regards to shifting I can set it to sell the one fund and purchase the new fund in one transaction my end and it's normally done in a couple of days so I will have a look over the weekend. Although just looked and my tax relief went in yesterday so not all the units can be sold immediately.

Thank you for your assistance! As above anyone else have any suggestions?
 

BumRush

Member
What ETFs do you guys recommend to diversify a bit with the VTIs and IVVs of the world? Looking for something with a relatively low risk tolerance, but (when possible) not containing the same stocks that S&P 500 funds do.
 
What ETFs do you guys recommend to diversify a bit with the VTIs and IVVs of the world? Looking for something with a relatively low risk tolerance, but (when possible) not containing the same stocks that S&P 500 funds do.

VTI is a total US stock market fund. The way to diversify that is to get outside of the US stock market. That's going to be international, bonds, etc. Look at VXUS and BND.
 

Piecake

Member
Thank you! I have been looking at VXUS but will look at BND as well.

Others differ, but I am personally not a fan of investing with bonds when you are young.

I look at bonds as a hedge. When you are young you do not need a hedge because the best hedge in the world is time. You have plenty of time to invest until you retire so it simply does not matter if the market tanks in 10 years (so long as you don't do something stupid).

Investing in all stocks will likely mean that you will see higher returns. I simply don't see the purpose of bonds besides pyschological reasons until you get to like 10-15 years before retirement.

At that time, you should definitely start thinking of moving some of your account towards bonds because time starts becoming less and less of a hedge.
 
Others differ, but I am personally not a fan of investing with bonds when you are young.

I look at bonds as a hedge. When you are young you do not need a hedge because the best hedge in the world is time. You have plenty of time to invest until you retire so it simply does not matter if the market tanks in 10 years (so long as you don't do something stupid).

Investing in all stocks will likely mean that you will see higher returns. I simply don't see the purpose of bonds besides pyschological reasons until you get to like 10-15 years before retirement.

At that time, you should definitely start thinking of moving some of your account towards bonds because time starts becoming less and less of a hedge.

+1

People may also want to take a look at the 'bond tent' concept. It hasn't been properly studied yet but I'm betting it will be over the coming years.
 

tokkun

Member
Others differ, but I am personally not a fan of investing with bonds when you are young.

I look at bonds as a hedge. When you are young you do not need a hedge because the best hedge in the world is time. You have plenty of time to invest until you retire so it simply does not matter if the market tanks in 10 years (so long as you don't do something stupid).

Investing in all stocks will likely mean that you will see higher returns. I simply don't see the purpose of bonds besides pyschological reasons until you get to like 10-15 years before retirement.

At that time, you should definitely start thinking of moving some of your account towards bonds because time starts becoming less and less of a hedge.

I believe that is all true, but I would caution people against treating "psychological reasons" as an afterthought (or worse, a point of scorn). I'll give you two reasons why:

1. The first is practical: Any one of us can fall victim to our emotions and end up making an error that hurts us more than holding a modest amount of bonds would have. I include myself in that, and I don't think a person is doing themselves any favors by thinking otherwise.

As an analogy, I'm currently dieting to take off a few pounds I gained over the winter. Now in theory, success in dieting is all psychological. I possess all the knowledge I need, it's just a matter of whether I can resist temptations and follow through. In reality, the psychological part is tough, so I employ all sorts of strategies to make it easier: I keep less food around the house, I restrict the hours when I eat, I switch things up occasionally to avoid boredom, and I stick to foods that make me feel full longer. If I were some perfect cogitator, I'd just calculate the minimum amount of calories and nutrients I need each day to function, and just eat that in the cheapest way. However, I have enough experience to recognize my own weaknesses in this regard. I try to design a strategy that is optimal based on my own characteristics, because trying to follow the strategy that is optimal for someone with perfect restraint would ultimately lead to failure.

Investing is not so much different, but due to the fact that we've been in a bull market for many years now, a lot of younger investors have not had a chance to gain experience from a bear market. Hence, it seems to all of us that resisting psychological impulses must be easy, so why not optimize as if such things don't matter. I'm sure there are some people who will find it easy to resist their impulses, but they are probably in the minority. If holding a few bonds helps a person avoid a bigger mistake later (like pulling out of the market following a crash), then it's probably a good thing.

Now, I'm playing devil's advocate here a bit, because I think there are other things people should focus on to mitigate behavioral error before going to bonds - for instance creating simple, hands-off portfolios and reducing consumption of market-related information.

2. The second point is philosophical, and I'll be less long-winded about it: Accumulating wealth through investing is a means to an end, not an end itself. A large part of that end is psychological - the comfort of feeling safe and secure in your ability to provide for yourself. It is logically consistent, then, for someone to adopt an investment strategy that is less volatile if it still keeps them on track to meet their goals while giving them less stress. Optimize for happiness, not account balance.
 

Piecake

Member
I believe that is all true, but I would caution people against treating "psychological reasons" as an afterthought (or worse, a point of scorn). I'll give you two reasons why:

1. The first is practical: Any one of us can fall victim to our emotions and end up making an error that hurts us more than holding a modest amount of bonds would have. I include myself in that, and I don't think a person is doing themselves any favors by thinking otherwise.

As an analogy, I'm currently dieting to take off a few pounds I gained over the winter. Now in theory, success in dieting is all psychological. I possess all the knowledge I need, it's just a matter of whether I can resist temptations and follow through. In reality, the psychological part is tough, so I employ all sorts of strategies to make it easier: I keep less food around the house, I restrict the hours when I eat, I switch things up occasionally to avoid boredom, and I stick to foods that make me feel full longer. If I were some perfect cogitator, I'd just calculate the minimum amount of calories and nutrients I need each day to function, and just eat that in the cheapest way. However, I have enough experience to recognize my own weaknesses in this regard. I try to design a strategy that is optimal based on my own characteristics, because trying to follow the strategy that is optimal for someone with perfect restraint would ultimately lead to failure.

Investing is not so much different, but due to the fact that we've been in a bull market for many years now, a lot of younger investors have not had a chance to gain experience from a bear market. Hence, it seems to all of us that resisting psychological impulses must be easy, so why not optimize as if such things don't matter. I'm sure there are some people who will find it easy to resist their impulses, but they are probably in the minority. If holding a few bonds helps a person avoid a bigger mistake later (like pulling out of the market following a crash), then it's probably a good thing.

Now, I'm playing devil's advocate here a bit, because I think there are other things people should focus on to mitigate behavioral error before going to bonds - for instance creating simple, hands-off portfolios and reducing consumption of market-related information.

2. The second point is philosophical, and I'll be less long-winded about it: Accumulating wealth through investing is a means to an end, not an end itself. A large part of that end is psychological - the comfort of feeling safe and secure in your ability to provide for yourself. It is logically consistent, then, for someone to adopt an investment strategy that is less volatile if it still keeps them on track to meet their goals while giving them less stress. Optimize for happiness, not account balance.

I would agree with that. It is far worse to sell at a really bad time than to have bonds in your portfolio.

Though I do think that saying that bonds are unnecessary at an early age is important. The reason that surrounds bonds being unimportant is also the 'best' mindset for long-term investing because it likely will gain the less returns and will result in a stress-free, hands-off approach.

I didn't mean to imply that the psychological reasons were unimportant or makes people weak if they have trouble with that. I personally don't have a problem with these psychological reasons for investing, but I also do have quite a problem with psychological reasons when it comes to buying and binge-ing on junk food. Usually I am able to avoid buying or eating it for a good several months, but then I go on a 1-2 month binge-athon. We will see if my new psychological trick works! haha

https://www.ted.com/talks/dan_ariely_asks_are_we_in_control_of_our_own_decisions

https://www.ted.com/talks/ruth_chang_how_to_make_hard_choices

My new psychological trick really derives from these two ted talks. Because we really don't have control over a lot of the decisions that we make and simply create a narrative afterwards to craft agency onto our choice means that the story we tell ourselves is extremely extremely powerful.

What most people think of themselves when they go on a diet is that "I know I am a terrible eater and this will suck. Or I have to do a bunch of different things to stop bad self from doing bad things, but if I just stick with this diet things will go better." They don't make it part of their identity. It is something they try to do to change themselves, but if that self-identity never changes then they are likely to go back to where they are before.

I told myself that I am a person who does not buy junk food and does not eat it. I, at my very core, am a person who eats only decently healthy food. If you self-identity gives you no choice and no wiggle room and is infused into your very being then succumbing to temptation seems like it would be very unlikely.

We will see if that works, but so far it is.

I also have a hands-off self-identity when it comes to finance and the stock market. After I knew no bonds and hands off was the approach that led to the 'best' returns and least stress, I internalized it, made it part of myself, and didn't crack when the market tanked (or stress about my own holdings all that much) so I am positive that that self-identity is safe
 

br3wnor

Member
Hi everyone,

Finally dipping into this thread as I'm able to really start thinking about retirement planning.

I'm 31 this year and next month start a state job which has a pension + an (optional) deferred compensation system. The pension contribution is mandatory will be 5.75% of gross salary. My starting compensation is $72,500 with mandatory annual raises. As I (hopefully) get promotions, the yearly bump will increase. After 4 years I get a yearly $2,600 'longevity' bonus, 8 years I think it's $5,200 and after 13? years it's I think $6,800. (I mention these because they're not considered 'salary' but ARE considered 'pensionable')

The pension plan is vesting after 20 years at 35% of the average of your last 5 years of employment. Every year worked over 20 adds 2% to your overall cut. The HOPE is to get 35 years in, retire at 66 w/ a 65% pension. In todays money, the higher ups in this organization are in the $140,000 - $150,000 range, but even if I never make it to a supervisory position I'm looking at the $120's as a top out salary.

I figure 65% (or 55% if I want to retire at 61) of my top salary plus social security would be enough at retirement but I also feel that not putting money into the deferred compensation 401k would be really dumb. I also am not naive and know that pensions (even state ones) eventually will be probably be phased out before I retire and while I hope I'm grandfathered in, I can't rely that it's going to be there when I ultimately retire. Knowing that almost 6% of my salary is already going into the pension plan, should I be aiming to put at least 10% into the 401k as well? My wife also has an investment account that is run by a financial advisor (she got it when she was a teenager as an inheritance) so I'm torn as to how much of my own money I should also be contributing to that, or if that money is better off funneled into the 401k.

The job that I'm leaving I deal solely w/ cancer victims and the number 1 type of client I have is someone who didn't plan properly for retirement, gets cancer, can't work in their 50's and is now trying to live solely off of SSDI and their lives are a financial nightmare. That's the biggest thing I want to avoid.
 

Daante

Member
Allocation suggestion for index funds?

Currently running 4 low fee index funds.
Time horizon is +10 years before i will withdraw anything.

1 global/international (65% is US 25% is EU)
1 EU
1 Asia
1 For my home country (Sweden)
 
Should I quit my obsessive research and just put my entire Roth IRA into a single etf like QQQ or MGK?

I would not advise that. QQQ tracks the Nasdaq 100, which is a very select number of large cap stocks, excludes financials, and has a very heavy weight on the largest companies (Apple is nearly 12% of the index). MGK is focused on mega cap growth stocks, so it is missing balance not only with value stocks, but also mid and small cap companies. Neither fund is particularly great for diversification.

VTI - Total US Stock Market
VXUS - Total International Stock Market
Maybe BND - Total US Bond Market.

Blend these. 60/30/10 might be a good starting point, adjust to your liking. (Personal note, I'm much lower on international and don't hold any bonds, but that's me and I'm not you. Vanguard's domestic/international stock split in their target date funds is roughly 60/40, with each adjusted down in line for bond holdings.)
 

Piecake

Member
Allocation suggestion for index funds?

Currently running 4 low fee index funds.
Time horizon is +10 years before i will withdraw anything.

1 global/international (65% is US 25% is EU)
1 EU
1 Asia
1 For my home country (Sweden)

https://personal.vanguard.com/us/funds/snapshot?FundId=0628&FundIntExt=INT#tab=2

I'd use that as your guide if you want to just ride the market.

United States 54.0%
Japan 8.2%
United Kingdom 5.9%
Canada 3.2%
France 2.8%
Germany 2.8%
Switzerland 2.7%
Australia 2.5%
China 2.2%
Korea 1.6%
Taiwan 1.5%
Hong Kong 1.2%
India 1.1%
Netherlands 1.0%
Spain 1.0%
Sweden 1.0%
 

Joe

Member
I would not advise that. QQQ tracks the Nasdaq 100, which is a very select number of large cap stocks, excludes financials, and has a very heavy weight on the largest companies (Apple is nearly 12% of the index). MGK is focused on mega cap growth stocks, so it is missing balance not only with value stocks, but also mid and small cap companies. Neither fund is particularly great for diversification.

VTI - Total US Stock Market
VXUS - Total International Stock Market
Maybe BND - Total US Bond Market.

Blend these. 60/30/10 might be a good starting point, adjust to your liking. (Personal note, I'm much lower on international and don't hold any bonds, but that's me and I'm not you. Vanguard's domestic/international stock split in their target date funds is roughly 60/40, with each adjusted down in line for bond holdings.)
Thanks for the information and talking some sense into me.
 

Joe

Member
After much deliberation I finally used the funds in my Roth IRA to create my portfolio:

IVV - iShares Core S&P 500 ETF (43%)
VBK - Vanguard Small-Cap Growth Index Fund ETF (15%)

EWJ - iShares MSCI Japan ETF (15%)
AAXJ - iShares MSCI All Country Asia ex Japan ETF (7%)
ILF - iShares Latin America 40 ETF (13%)

BOTZ - Global X Robotics & Artificial Intelligence Thematic ETF (7%)

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Based all of my potentials around commission-free etfs at TD Ameritrade (excluding BOTZ).

I think the Japanese market will be a solid buy for the upcoming year. Going with Latin America and Asia ex-Japan over the European Union and United Kingdom is a gamble but I don't think it's crazy and I am ok with the risk.

Robotics and A.I. is something I really wanted to invest in for the long-term and I think BOTZ is a good buy for this. ROBO was another option but I liked the lower expense ratio and greater Japan exposure of BOTZ.

The "set-it-and-forget-it" model of a simple VTI + VXUS portfolio is something I highly considered but I enjoy the research (so far) involved with attempting to follow macroeconomics.

I did set-up a few mock portfolios, including a VTI+VXUS version, to track the performances of each variant and if in 6-9 months I find myself trailing behind the more simpler portfolios then I will just go with some sort of ho-hum Vanguard combo and call it a day.

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Thanks to this thread and everyone posting in it I finally set up a retirement account. Seeing this thread consistently pop-up over the past few years really planted the seed in me. Once I realized that my savings account isn't even keeping up with inflation it all started to click and kicked me into overdrive.
 
I think the Japanese market will be a solid buy for the upcoming year. Going with Latin America and Asia (ex-Japan) over European Union and United Kingdom is a gamble but I don't think it's crazy and I am ok with the risk.

The "set-it-and-forget-it" model of a simple VTI + VXUS portfolio is something I highly considered but I enjoy the research (so far) involved with trying to follow macroeconomics.

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BumRush

Member
Thanks in part to this thread I've gotten really serious about where my savings are going.

I read through Bogleheads Retirement guide (amazing book) and created my own portfolio statement that lays out where I will be putting my money. I also created a very detailed budget, which I'm excited about.

On the topic of bonds, any reason I shouldn't put LQD (iShares bond ETF) in my portfolio instead of BND? I plan to put 10% in bonds and the other 90% split (60/30) between VTI and VXUS. Taxable account, by the way.
 
On the topic of bonds, any reason I shouldn't put LQD (iShares bond ETF) in my portfolio instead of BND? I plan to put 10% in bonds and the other 90% split (60/30) between VTI and VXUS. Taxable account, by the way.
Corporate bonds are not typically considered tax-efficient in a taxable account, according to those same Bogleheads. I personally put my bond allocation in my tax-advantaged accounts, like 401k or IRA.

Edit: dividend distributions of LQD actually look similar to VTSAX, so maybe LQD is tax-efficient.
 
Yeah, I get it. I'm ok with it though. I did a lot of research and realize it's still going to be a coin flip at best. The worst case scenario is I inexpensively learn an important lesson but at least I would get the gambling compulsion out of my blood.

Good luck
 

nillapuddin

Member
Okay I'm ready to start investing for real now, some might remember I was looking for some beginning help a few months ago well now I'm ready to take action.

Current situation
25 y/o, engaged, renting condo, 50/50 split life bills with fiance
15k in savings
1k monthly expenses
4k monthly earnings

(expected wedding costs 5K, honeymoon TBD)

I am recently engaged so I was waiting a bit longer to save up to assure we will be good to cover everything and I could have savings incase of work injury (I am a contractor)

For the next 18~ weeks I will continue to make my 1K a week salary, then for a 6 month period I will be freelance (Usually I can make around 2-3k a month freelance) then back on salary again for another 50 work weeks (at an undetermined higher rate) This process will continue for the next 5 years (guaranteed four more 50 week paid salary sequences)

My employer offers an IRA through American Century Investments (at 3% match) so I will fund that, and then I just opened a Vanguard account.


Is it completely subjective what my first Vanguard move is between start a 401k with them personally, or drop a chunk a change into one of the favorite Index Funds?
 

Torquill

Member
On Traditional IRA vs. Roth IRA. If I assume my income now will be identical to my income later, would the tax deferred option be preferable on the basis that I'll have more money in the system benefiting from compound interest?
 

Husker86

Member
On Traditional IRA vs. Roth IRA. If I assume my income now will be identical to my income later, would the tax deferred option be preferable on the basis that I'll have more money in the system benefiting from compound interest?
Only if you invest the money you "saved" on taxes in another account do you for sure come out ahead.

If tax rates are exactly the same on both ends (unlikely due to other sources of income probably), your net take home will be equivalent when withdrawing.

However if you withdraw from the traditional as your only source of income, I think that would come out ahead since your effective tax rate will be lower than the taxes you saved when contributing.

That's why I think having a pool of both is beneficial, because you can take out some from traditional until you hit a higher bracket, then take from Roth after that. Maybe I'm missing something, though. This is assuming taxes will be higher in the future, otherwise the taxes you save at withdraw time are less than the taxes you paid at contribution time with the Roth.

I think having only Roth accounts would be bad if that's your main source of income, because of the progressive tax rate.
 
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