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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

So from a HD4870 to an HD5770. I can't afford the 5800's and I don't think the beast would fit my case. It worth the upgrade cause I want my DX11. :D Also going to have Win7 64bit going and probably adding more ram from 4gig to 8gig.
 
Hey, I currently have a Q6600 at 2.4 and an 8800GT. How much benefit would I see from a new GFX card? Am I going to be bottlenecked by my CPU?
 
Everdred said:
Hey, I currently have a Q6600 at 2.4 and an 8800GT. How much benefit would I see from a new GFX card? Am I going to be bottlenecked by my CPU?

Depends on what resolution you play at and what card you're looking at getting.

With resolutions lower than 1650x1050 generally CPU bottlenecks become an issue. With higher resolutions the bottleneck shifts over to the GPU side of things and any decent quad core should be a match for pretty much any GPU out there bar the 5970 and high end crossfire setups for which you would need higher end quads such as i5/7's or phenom x4/6's.
 
could he use that power supply now with a second 5770 for a bout month untill he can get a new power supply cuz he just told me he cant afford one right now
 
Everdred said:
Hey, I currently have a Q6600 at 2.4 and an 8800GT. How much benefit would I see from a new GFX card? Am I going to be bottlenecked by my CPU?

First off get that Q6600 to 3.0 at least. You won't even have to bump voltages to get it up to 3.0. At stock settings it can be a bit limiting but if you want to put a little effort into overclocking you'll get it to 3.4-3.6.
 
Shambles said:
First off get that Q6600 to 3.0 at least. You won't even have to bump voltages to get it up to 3.0. At stock settings it can be a bit limiting but if you want to put a little effort into overclocking you'll get it to 3.4-3.6.
I would love to get to at least 3.0 but I don't even know where to start. I wish I could just get someone to do it for me.
 
Omiee said:
could he use that power supply now with a second 5770 for a bout month untill he can get a new power supply cuz he just told me he cant afford one right now
It's either going to work or it's not...is he willing to take that risk?
 
CcrooK said:
So from a HD4870 to an HD5770. I can't afford the 5800's and I don't think the beast would fit my case. It worth the upgrade cause I want my DX11. :D Also going to have Win7 64bit going and probably adding more ram from 4gig to 8gig.

4870 to 5770 is not really an improvement :( Is it too late to return? You need to go to SLI/XFire or GTX 470 or 5850 from a 4870 I think.
 
Minsc said:
4870 to 5770 is not really an improvement :( Is it too late to return? You need to go to SLI/XFire or GTX 470 or 5850 from a 4870 I think.

Haven't bought one yet. Just looking at my options for this year. :D
 
CcrooK said:
Haven't bought one yet. Just looking at my options for this year. :D

I bought one 5770 then bought another one a month later. I haven't had a single issue with Crossfire and I get really good performance for the money. My sample size is small, but it ran Metro 2033 well, Dirt 2 and I run Bad Company 2 at 1600 x 900 at max settings in MP. Bad Company 2 is really the only game I play at the moment, but it runs very well.
 
Dumb question...

I want to buy a new hard drive and format it with a free MSDNAA OS image. When I get enough money to buy backup, could I take the new MSDNAA OS formatted hard drive out and stick the old hard drive(retail key) back in and have the old one work as if it was never removed? Buying backup hardware in the near future is a must and I don't care about the contents of this hard drive enough to burn it for immediate transfer.
 
NIGHT- said:
Where is the cheapest place to get Windows 7? And am I better off going with Home or is the extra price for Pro worth it?

I got mine off of Amazon for $250 plus 2 day shipping for about $9. No taxes.
 
CcrooK said:
Haven't bought one yet. Just looking at my options for this year. :D

A 5770 is just a 4870 with added DX11 features, half the memory interface, but with higher clock speeds to make up for it. Don't waste your money, DX11 is hardly worth the upgrade, especially as the best looking DX11 games (metro and BFBC2) even run sub-60fps on my 5870 with everything maxed out.

Just save up for a 5870 or 5850, it seems like prices will actually start falling soon on them as I've been seeing sales on the 5870 for $380 recently.
 
NIGHT- said:
Where is the cheapest place to get Windows 7? And am I better off going with Home or is the extra price for Pro worth it?

I got a Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit key off of ebay a few months ago for $25. Working like a charm so far.
 
TouchMyBox said:
A 5770 is just a 4870 with added DX11 features, half the memory interface, but with higher clock speeds to make up for it. Don't waste your money, DX11 is hardly worth the upgrade, especially as the best looking DX11 games (metro and BFBC2) even run sub-60fps on my 5870 with everything maxed out.

Just save up for a 5870 or 5850, it seems like prices will actually start falling soon on them as I've been seeing sales on the 5870 for $380 recently.

Yeah, looking to upgrade and torn between getting a DX11 card now or not. Looking at the DX11 list on wikipedia, nothing I really feel I need. Are there any killer games that will required DX11 to play? Or will most play fine with DX10, just without the DX11 features?

Edit: for example, looking at these two cards, I think I'm leaning more towards the 4850.

 
Mr. Snrub said:
I got a Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit key off of ebay a few months ago for $25. Working like a charm so far.

I'd be wary of anybody selling Windows keys without the box or disc. Most of the time, they're MSDN subscribers and the keys aren't supposed to be resold. While the chances that your key could get revoked are slim, I have heard it happen before.

If you have a .edu e-mail address, you can get a Windows 7 Pro key for $65 from Microsoft's online vendor here.
 
Thanks to Hazaro and others, I'm really digging my PC experience right now (particularly because I'm playing Crysis in holy shit mode).

The only big problem I'm still having is that my desktop is projecting bigger than my physical screen size. Perhaps the outer 5% of the desktop doesn't show up on my screen at all.

With ATIs scaling I option I can see how you can expand the size of the desktop if it doesn't fit the entire screen, but I don't see how you can shrink the size of the desktop. Am I missing something? I'm using the 5850 with catalyst version 10.4, if it helps at all.
 
jlchoi said:
I'd be wary of anybody selling Windows keys without the box or disc. Most of the time, they're MSDN subscribers and the keys aren't supposed to be resold. While the chances that your key could get revoked are slim, I have heard it happen before.

If you have a .edu e-mail address, you can get a Windows 7 Pro key for $65 from Microsoft's online vendor here.

I had an MSDN account and all my keys were deactivated. That sucked.
 
Anyone know what kind of performance gains you can expect to get from overclocking a Radeon 5970? Also, is there really a noticeable difference when it comes to DDR 1333 vs 1600 vs 1800 vs 1866 vs 2000 mhz ram? Also, is it worth it to spend extra money on the more expensive type of ram's, such as corsair dominator or a data gaming series with heatspreader?
 
professor_t said:
With ATIs scaling I option I can see how you can expand the size of the desktop if it doesn't fit the entire screen, but I don't see how you can shrink the size of the desktop. Am I missing something? I'm using the 5850 with catalyst version 10.4, if it helps at all.

Sounds like overscan.. do you have an option on your TV to change the zoom level or anything? Failing that, go into CCC, under 'Desktop and Displays' right-click the monitor icon and select 'Configure.' On the following screen, make sure 'Use centered timings" is selected. I had it set to 'Scale to full panel size' and for whatever reason my screen was rendered like 10 pixels off-center until I changed that. Hopefully it will help you as well.


If THAT doesn't work you might have to lower your resolution and use the scaling options to fill the screen. I would consider that a last resort though.
 
jlchoi said:
I'd be wary of anybody selling Windows keys without the box or disc. Most of the time, they're MSDN subscribers and the keys aren't supposed to be resold. While the chances that your key could get revoked are slim, I have heard it happen before.

If you have a .edu e-mail address, you can get a Windows 7 Pro key for $65 from Microsoft's online vendor here.

I was definitely wary, but decided to gamble with $25 and it's paid off. Getting all my updates, passed validation, etc.
 
Howdy,

Here's my situation. Recently my 360 red ringed so I have no means of modern gaming. I've had my mid range, $500 HP laptop for a year and a half, but I've always wanted to build my own desktop, but never followed through.

My laptop isn't terrible by any means. I think the hard drive is starting to go though, and it's kind of slow, chugs big time when I do anything substantial, and start up shut down are slow, general slowness. It would be awesome to have a sturdy, super fast desktop computer where I can play modern computer games with high settings on a high resolution, and be able to do stuff like light video editing, rip DVD's quickly, and just general multitasking, fast and smoothly. I also really miss having a nice keyboard and mouse.

This is what I've conjured up. I want to know what you guys think about it; comments, if I should go for a different part rather then another, stuff I need that I don't have picked out, etc.

CPU - Intel Core i7-930 Bloomfield 2.8GHz Quad Core
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115225

Mobo - ASUS P6X58D
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131614

RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 260 Core 216
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130434

PSU - CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006

HDD - SAMSUNG Spinpoint 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

Case - Antec Three Hundred
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042

DVD Burner - ASUS DVD Burner
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

Keyboard - Logitech Comfort Wave 450
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126054

Mouse - Logitech M500
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104328

OS - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754

Monitor - Dell 24"
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/...1070&~ck=bn&~bk=gr:CategoryRec,g:NextStep,rk:

Speakers - Audioengine A2B
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKEFN2/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
nyprimus2 said:
Howdy,

Here's my situation. Recently my 360 red ringed so I have no means of modern gaming. I've had my mid range, $500 HP laptop for a year and a half, but I've always wanted to build my own desktop, but never followed through.

My laptop isn't terrible by any means. I think the hard drive is starting to go though, and it's kind of slow, chugs big time when I do anything substantial, and start up shut down are slow, general slowness. It would be awesome to have a sturdy, super fast desktop computer where I can play modern computer games with high settings on a high resolution, and be able to do stuff like light video editing, rip DVD's quickly, and just general multitasking, fast and smoothly. I also really miss having a nice keyboard and mouse.

This is what I've conjured up. I want to know what you guys think about it; comments, if I should go for a different part rather then another, stuff I need that I don't have picked out, etc.

CPU - Intel Core i7-930 Bloomfield 2.8GHz Quad Core
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115225

Mobo - ASUS P6X58D
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131614

RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277

GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 260 Core 216
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130434

PSU - CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006

HDD - SAMSUNG Spinpoint 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

Case - Antec Three Hundred
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042

DVD Burner - ASUS DVD Burner
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

Keyboard - Logitech Comfort Wave 450
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126054

Mouse - Logitech M500
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104328

OS - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754

Monitor - Dell 24"
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/...1070&~ck=bn&~bk=gr:CategoryRec,g:NextStep,rk:

Speakers - Audioengine A2B
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKEFN2/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'll let someone else handle the rest of the rig for you, but if you're willing to spend $200 on speakers, then do this, the Swan M200mkII. If you don't want to spend $250, then go the other way down to $170 with the Swan D1080mkII 08.
 
nyprimus2 said:


Is this the GAF recommended HDD that's pretty damn fast for it's size and not being an SSD? Thinking of picking one up m'self.


The 4890 benches about 3-5fps better in Crysis than the 260/216.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-4890,2262-7.html

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150438 - 199

Personally I don't know that I'd notice 3-5 fps, but there ya go.
 
Ettenra said:
Is this the GAF recommended HDD that's pretty damn fast for it's size and not being an SSD? Thinking of picking one up m'self.


The 4890 benches about 3-5fps better in Crysis than the 260/216.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-4890,2262-7.html

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150438 - 199

Personally I don't know that I'd notice 3-5 fps, but there ya go.

Yup to the Samsung, it's the non-SSD HDD of choice right now.

As for the GTX 260 in his build, both the GTX 260 and 4890 will be large bottleneck's slowing that system down.

I'd personally go for a GTX 465/470/480 or 5850/5870. A GTX 260 seems too slow. Horrible time to buy it too, when for $50 more you can get a GTX 465 in another week.
 
Ettenra said:
Is this the GAF recommended HDD that's pretty damn fast for it's size and not being an SSD? Thinking of picking one up m'self.

Yeah, the Samsung F3 is pretty much the consensus favorite right now as far as performance and capacity goes.
 
TouchMyBox said:
A 5770 is just a 4870 with added DX11 features, half the memory interface, but with higher clock speeds to make up for it. Don't waste your money, DX11 is hardly worth the upgrade, especially as the best looking DX11 games (metro and BFBC2) even run sub-60fps on my 5870 with everything maxed out.

Just save up for a 5870 or 5850, it seems like prices will actually start falling soon on them as I've been seeing sales on the 5870 for $380 recently.

STALKER CoP benchmark tool, the DX11 was significantly nicer than DX9, DiRT 2 has some nice touches with DX11 effects too. Nothing is ever going to "require it", the only thing that will ever be required is DX10 at some point when games don't support XP's DX9. After DX10, the next required DX will be whatever windows OS ships with a DX that Windows 7 doesn't get (windows 9 with DX13 or 14 I guess, probably 4 or 5 years from now).
 
Anyone know if there's any decent 25" monitors coming out any time soon? I'm getting a new monitor soon-ish to use as a TV/ monitor and it seems like all of the nice new monitors coming out are 23" exclusively. The new Samsung and LG LED monitors, that new Dell IPS that's a really good price, they're all 23". It's going in a small room so I guess that wouldn't be a horrible size, especially when playing PC games or using the computer for other stuff, but I'd like the extra two inches for when watching movies or playing a console from a little further away.
 
Okay guys, I need some advice. Some background first:

So last week my Video Card died on me. If you want details, I posted a thread about it (http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395056). It was a 8800GT. I was completely and totally fine with the performance that it was giving me, and wasn't planning ot upgrade for maybe 2 more years. However, now that I have hit this snagfu, I'm looking for a new card. The thing is, I'm in saving mode currently, and don't really want to spend a too much money on a card.

After doing some research, and checking out some prices, I decided that the two cards that fit my bill were the HD 4850, and the HD 5770.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150482&cm_re=HD_4850-_-14-150-482-_-Product - 4850
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150462&cm_re=5770-_-14-150-462-_-Product - 5770

The price difference is what's killing me. That $50 difference is a big deal, and frankly, I'm not really interested in the DirectX 11 support. My main priority is performance. I just need to know if the difference (in terms of performance) between the 4850 and the 5770 is worth $50.

OR! If there's another card I should consider, please feel free to give me some advice. Thanks! :D
 
datruth29 said:
Okay guys, I need some advice. Some background first:

So last week my Video Card died on me. If you want details, I posted a thread about it (http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395056). It was a 8800GT. I was completely and totally fine with the performance that it was giving me, and wasn't planning ot upgrade for maybe 2 more years. However, now that I have hit this snagfu, I'm looking for a new card. The thing is, I'm in saving mode currently, and don't really want to spend a too much money on a card.

After doing some research, and checking out some prices, I decided that the two cards that fit my bill were the HD 4850, and the HD 5770.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150482&cm_re=HD_4850-_-14-150-482-_-Product - 4850
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150462&cm_re=5770-_-14-150-462-_-Product - 5770

The price difference is what's killing me. That $50 difference is a big deal, and frankly, I'm not really interested in the DirectX 11 support. My main priority is performance. I just need to know if the difference (in terms of performance) between the 4850 and the 5770 is worth $50.

OR! If there's another card I should consider, please feel free to give me some advice. Thanks! :D

Simply put no, performance difference is too low for the $50 to be worth it. See if you can pick up a 4870 instead of the 5770 as it will be faster and cheaper. Right now the 5770 is a terrible investment when you can get the cheaper and faster 4870 or the equally priced and much faster 4890.
 
Okay folks, I'm desperate for some help with overclocking. I really wanna get my CPU up to about 3.8 GHz so I can play games in Dolphin. Here's what I've got...

CPU - Intel Core i7 920 @ 2.67 GHz
RAM - Three 2 GB Sticks from Super Talent (6 gigs total)
Motherboard - ASUS P6X58D Premium (this is a pretty new motherboard and it has lots of built in heatsinks on it, which should probably help, right?)

How can I safely get my CPU up to 3.8 GHz? I really don't wanna risk another total meltdown (which is the reason why I currently have a brand new super expensive motherboard), but I REALLY want to get this to happen! Can you guys help?
 
I have reason to believe my D-Link wireless adapter is not compatible with Win7 64bit or my motherboard, either that or it is faulty. It's having lots of drop outs and now it refuses to connect to the internet at all.
Can anyone recommend a good quality wireless adapter that is certified by MS to work with Win7 and on a P55 motherboard that isn't D-Link? I'm slowly developing a bad track record with their products and I just want to wash my hands of them really.
Before you start, my PC is too far away for an Ethernet connection at the moment.
 
Mr_Brit said:
Simply put no, performance difference is too low for the $50 to be worth it. See if you can pick up a 4870 instead of the 5770 as it will be faster and cheaper. Right now the 5770 is a terrible investment when you can get the cheaper and faster 4870 or the equally priced and much faster 4890.
A checked the prices for each of the cards and such, and it seems the 4850, 4870, and 4890 are separated by $50 each, respectively. I could find a couple of cheap 4890's, but there used, and I'm not to comfortable purchasing used video cards (especially with what happened to mine.....). So then I guess the question is how much of a difference in terms of performance is there between the 3. Ultimately, I'm leaning towards the 4850, mainly because it's cheap, and I'm fine with something that's even a bit better then my old 8800GT.
 
datruth29 said:
A checked the prices for each of the cards and such, and it seems the 4850, 4870, and 4890 are separated by $50 each, respectively. I could find a couple of cheap 4890's, but there used, and I'm not to comfortable purchasing used video cards (especially with what happened to mine.....). So then I guess the question is how much of a difference in terms of performance is there between the 3. Ultimately, I'm leaning towards the 4850, mainly because it's cheap, and I'm fine with something that's even a bit better then my old 8800GT.
All 1GB versions:

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/gaming-graphics-cards-charts-2009-high-quality/compare,1807.html?prod[3660]=on&prod[3664]=on&prod[3670]=on&prod[3633]=on
 
I should be doing hw said:
I have reason to believe my D-Link wireless adapter is not compatible with Win7 64bit or my motherboard, either that or it is faulty. It's having lots of drop outs and now it refuses to connect to the internet at all.
Can anyone recommend a good quality wireless adapter that is certified by MS to work with Win7 and on a P55 motherboard that isn't D-Link? I'm slowly developing a bad track record with their products and I just want to wash my hands of them really.
Before you start, my PC is too far away for an Ethernet connection at the moment.

Have you eliminated your router as a possible problem?

I had a D-Link PCI card before, was junk. Ended up getting a 100ft cable.

Something like this should do ya. I've also used a wireless usb from linksys with no problems, but I've heard that the USB dongles tend to overheat, and obviously the lack of antenna doesn't help the range.
 
datruth29 said:
A checked the prices for each of the cards and such, and it seems the 4850, 4870, and 4890 are separated by $50 each, respectively. I could find a couple of cheap 4890's, but there used, and I'm not to comfortable purchasing used video cards (especially with what happened to mine.....). So then I guess the question is how much of a difference in terms of performance is there between the 3. Ultimately, I'm leaning towards the 4850, mainly because it's cheap, and I'm fine with something that's even a bit better then my old 8800GT.

Biggest jump in performance is between the 4850 to 4870 so the 4870 would be a great choice and it will also outperform the 5770 to boot.
 
autobzooty said:
Okay folks, I'm desperate for some help with overclocking. I really wanna get my CPU up to about 3.8 GHz so I can play games in Dolphin. Here's what I've got...

CPU - Intel Core i7 920 @ 2.67 GHz
RAM - Three 2 GB Sticks from Super Talent (6 gigs total)
Motherboard - ASUS P6X58D Premium (this is a pretty new motherboard and it has lots of built in heatsinks on it, which should probably help, right?)

How can I safely get my CPU up to 3.8 GHz? I really don't wanna risk another total meltdown (which is the reason why I currently have a brand new super expensive motherboard), but I REALLY want to get this to happen! Can you guys help?
If the BIOS is similar on that board to my P6T Deluxe, the settings I posted to you before should work to get your OC to at least 3.7GHz (I told you it was @ 3.5GHz before, but I've been playing with my settings and 3.7- hell, even 3.8- is completely stable on my system). If you're dead set on going to 4.0GHz you may need to knock your vcore voltage up from my 1.22, but that's not a sure thing. My settings may work perfectly well on a 4GHz OC on your system; you'll just need to experiment.

Might note that 3.7 is enough to play my entire library of GC/Wii games on Dolphin no problem (virtually all first-party Nintendo games).

You are going to want an aftermarket heatsink. Prolimatech Megahalem with a couple fans would be great. I use a Noctua NH-U12P with a stock fan as pull and a Scythe Ultra Kaze as a push. Works well, but is very loud. Using the two stock Noctua fans, it was completely silent but temps would be up to 5C warmer.
 
Open Source said:
Have you eliminated your router as a possible problem?
I have for the dropping out issues, because my PC is saying their is no internet connection at all now, whilst my laptop is running on it fine.
I think I'm just going to get a cable soon enough though.
Thanks for the help.
 
Mr_Brit said:
Simply put no, performance difference is too low for the $50 to be worth it. See if you can pick up a 4870 instead of the 5770 as it will be faster and cheaper. Right now the 5770 is a terrible investment when you can get the cheaper and faster 4870 or the equally priced and much faster 4890.

How much do people here think 4870s and 5770s cost?

This is like the third or fourth time I've seen people say the 4870 is cheaper, but everything I check it is the same, and the 5770 has always been priced at $150 or less when I look, so I go in expecting the 4870 to be close to $100 or something.

Right now newegg has a 5770 for $145 after rebate, and it comes with DiRT 2, and they go on sale with rebates for $125 every so often.

Are the 4870s under $100 or something? I checked google's shopping engine and the cheapest reputable 1GB card was $145, but no free game.

Benchmarks show the 5770 keeping up to the 4870 pretty well on average, with a few games it falls to 10-25% slower, but a few games it's faster (sometimes by that same 10-20%).

I guess I could understand the constant recommending of them if they were actually cheaper, but more often than not they're more expensive or the same price (today and the last time I checked they cost more, when you factor in the free game).
 
Crunched said:
If the BIOS is similar on that board to my P6T Deluxe, the settings I posted to you before should work to get your OC to at least 3.7GHz (I told you it was @ 3.5GHz before, but I've been playing with my settings and 3.7- hell, even 3.8- is completely stable on my system). If you're dead set on going to 4.0GHz you may need to knock your vcore voltage up from my 1.22, but that's not a sure thing. My settings may work perfectly well on a 4GHz OC on your system; you'll just need to experiment.

Might note that 3.7 is enough to play my entire library of GC/Wii games on Dolphin no problem (virtually all first-party Nintendo games).

You are going to want an aftermarket heatsink. Prolimatech Megahalem with a couple fans would be great. I use a Noctua NH-U12P with a stock fan as pull and a Scythe Ultra Kaze as a push. Works well, but is very loud. Using the two stock Noctua fans, it was completely silent but temps would be up to 5C warmer.

Alright, I'll give it a shot tomorrow. But I don't know what you mean when you say that I could try the same settings at 3.7 or 3.8 GHz. What do I actually need to change in order to increase that? I know it has something to do with the BCLK, but could you elaborate on how to do that for me?

Also, do you think I'll really need a new heatsink even with my new motherboard?

Asus_P6X58D_Premium.jpg


^That's my board. I figured the built-in heatsinks would be plenty to keep my CPU cool enough, especially if I turn up my fans to medium or high. (Both my case fans are set to low on factory settings and I've never had a problem.)
 
esc said:
It's either going to work or it's not...is he willing to take that risk?

ok i managed to talk him in to getting a new power supply so he wouldent take a risk by damaging his new graphics card.

so can somebody help me out to choose one from this link to use.

his systeme now is

amd phenom 2 x4
6gb ram
1tb hdd
and one 5770 1gb.

he has a 480 walt now but i was told its good for now but not good enough for 2 graphic cards
so he is gonna get a second 5770 1gb

can someone take a look at this list and choose

https://www.afuture.nl/categorie.php?id=24&kid=25
 
Omiee said:
ok i managed to talk him in to getting a new power supply so he wouldent take a risk by damaging his new graphics card.

so can somebody help me out to choose one from this link to use.

his systeme now is

amd phenom 2 x4
6gb ram
1tb hdd
and one 5770 1gb.

he has a 480 walt now but i was told its good for now but not good enough for 2 graphic cards
so he is gonna get a second 5770 1gb

can someone take a look at this list and choose

https://www.afuture.nl/categorie.php?id=24&kid=25

Either the Corsair 550W or the 650W. I'd suggest the 650 since it'll cover you for everything, even if he wants to add other components such as HDD's in the future. Also PSU's lose power over time so having more overhead will keep it lasting longer and wont stress it as much.
 
So I've just come across this. http://xdevs.com/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.30

Basically, SLI is possible on most motherboards even if your mobo is advertised as only being capable of Crossfire. Done some reading around and it is safe.

Now seriously considering just getting another GTX 260 (providing I can find the super overclock edition from Gigabyte) and going SLI for now. It'll be a lot chepaer than ponying up for a 5970 :lol .
 
autobzooty said:
Alright, I'll give it a shot tomorrow. But I don't know what you mean when you say that I could try the same settings at 3.7 or 3.8 GHz. What do I actually need to change in order to increase that? I know it has something to do with the BCLK, but could you elaborate on how to do that for me?

Also, do you think I'll really need a new heatsink even with my new motherboard?



^That's my board. I figured the built-in heatsinks would be plenty to keep my CPU cool enough, especially if I turn up my fans to medium or high. (Both my case fans are set to low on factory settings and I've never had a problem.)

I have the same board (Sexy board but expensive) and an i7-930 @ 4ghz using the following settings

AI overclocker tuner = manual
CPU ratio 21
BCLk 191
CPU volts 1.30v
QPI/Dram 1.30v
everything else Auto

Prime95 stabe for 12+ hours with temps of about 66c using the fan the other poster suggested

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...014&cm_re=noctua_120mm-_-35-608-014-_-Product

You will need a good fan like this to keep the CPU cool. I only difference between your CPU and mine is your CPU ratio maxes at 20 so your settings are going to look like this for 3.8ghz.

CPU ratio 20
BCLK 190
 
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