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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

GAF, I've been having some game issues. I'm sure you've all been playing a game at some point when your computer suddenly gets hit with a BSOD. Your system locks up, your speakers/headphones get stuck in a 1/10-of-a-second infinite loop, and you need to restart in order to do anything on your machine at all. My first problem is similar, but not identical. I'm playing Red Faction: Guerrilla, and suddenly, out of the blue, my computer locks up. The screen image stops changing and the sound goes into that infinite loop, but five seconds later, it snaps out of it. It's fine. The sound and video go back to normal, and I can keep playing. (Granted, this whole thing usually repeats itself about a minute later, but that's not really important.) I don't get any error messages, nothing shows up in Event Viewer, and I have no way to break down what's actually happened.

My second problem is far less severe, but no less annoying. Imagine, if you will, rolling an egg end-over-end. The bottom of the egg is heavier than the top, so while it takes more time for the bottom to reach the top of its arc, it's faster to roll back down than the other end. It's lopsided. I know this is a weird analogy, but Red Faction: Guerrilla is doing something similar. It's like there's a little crank inside my video card that controls the actual speed at which it displays graphics on the screen, but instead of turning the crank at a nice, even speed, it's almost as if one side is heavier than the other. When I'm driving in-game, it's like it's on a three-second loop: two seconds of normal output, then one second of sped-up output, like it just took a second and a half of visual data and compressed it into one second. It's too smooth to be called hitching, as I'm quite sure it's not the traditional framerate dip problem, but I'm not sure what else this could be.

(My writing's unusually florid today. Sorry.)
 
adg1034 said:
GAF, I've been having some game issues. I'm sure you've all been playing a game at some point when your computer suddenly gets hit with a BSOD. Your system locks up, your speakers/headphones get stuck in a 1/10-of-a-second infinite loop, and you need to restart in order to do anything on your machine at all. My first problem is similar, but not identical. I'm playing Red Faction: Guerrilla, and suddenly, out of the blue, my computer locks up. The screen image stops changing and the sound goes into that infinite loop, but five seconds later, it snaps out of it. It's fine. The sound and video go back to normal, and I can keep playing. (Granted, this whole thing usually repeats itself about a minute later, but that's not really important.) I don't get any error messages, nothing shows up in Event Viewer, and I have no way to break down what's actually happened.

My second problem is far less severe, but no less annoying. Imagine, if you will, rolling an egg end-over-end. The bottom of the egg is heavier than the top, so while it takes more time for the bottom to reach the top of its arc, it's faster to roll back down than the other end. It's lopsided. I know this is a weird analogy, but Red Faction: Guerrilla is doing something similar. It's like there's a little crank inside my video card that controls the actual speed at which it displays graphics on the screen, but instead of turning the crank at a nice, even speed, it's almost as if one side is heavier than the other. When I'm driving in-game, it's like it's on a three-second loop: two seconds of normal output, then one second of sped-up output, like it just took a second and a half of visual data and compressed it into one second. It's too smooth to be called hitching, as I'm quite sure it's not the traditional framerate dip problem, but I'm not sure what else this could be.

(My writing's unusually florid today. Sorry.)

Is your graphics card properly cooled? I had strange things happen to mine when my fan went out in my old PC. Have you tried reinstalling your graphics card drivers? That's the first thing I would have tried.
 
adg1034 said:
GAF, I've been having some game issues. I'm sure you've all been playing a game at some point when your computer suddenly gets hit with a BSOD.

Nope. That really shouldn't be happening, the only time I've ever had a BSOD in the last decade is when I've been trying out a new overclock. It usually means faulty hardware (or drivers, if you're lucky).

As for your Red Faction problem, its a well known issue, the game links its gameplay speed to your framerate, its basically broken at anything above 30fps with no way of capping the framerate.
 
Trojita said:
Is your graphics card properly cooled? I had strange things happen to mine when my fan went out in my old PC. Have you tried reinstalling your graphics card drivers? That's the first thing I would have tried.
Haven't reinstalled the drivers because the installation seemed to go swimmingly the first time, but I'll give that a shot now.

And brain_stew, I sure hope I don't have faulty hardware, seeing as how I built this rig in the last week after my last one completely died on me. I have been having HDD issues, but I've narrowed it down to one specific drive (my Windows install drive, happily enough...) that's going to be replaced in the next couple days. In the meantime, though, I've done everything I can to avoid any problems stemming from this, including moving my swapfile to a different drive. So, we'll see.

(My point with the first part was that this wasn't a BSOD; it just got right up to the edge, then started working again.)
 
MOTHERBOARD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128397&cm_re=13-128-_-13-128-397-_-Product
Gigabyte, DDR3
$89.99 + 7.56 sh

PROCESSOR:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...674&cm_re=phenom_ii_x4-_-19-103-674-_-Product
Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2ghz
$165.99

RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277
G.Skill 4 gigs DDR3
$93.99

GPU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161317
Radeon HD 5770 1gb
$162.99

DVD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289
Some LITE-ON drive.
$23.99

HD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181
Samsung 500gb 7200rpm sata
$54.99

PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139008
Corsair 400w. Probably need something better?
$49.99

Case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811233058
Simple Gigabyte case.
$29.99 + 14.99 sh

~700 bucks.





Basically just modified the dude earlier with a similar budget.

I have NO clue about what I should be picking, here, in terms of balancing GPU/CPU. Any suggestions?
 
Tain said:
MOTHERBOARD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128397&cm_re=13-128-_-13-128-397-_-Product
Gigabyte, DDR3
$89.99 + 7.56 sh

PROCESSOR:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...674&cm_re=phenom_ii_x4-_-19-103-674-_-Product
Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2ghz
$165.99

RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277
G.Skill 4 gigs DDR3
$93.99

GPU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161317
Radeon HD 5770 1gb
$162.99

DVD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289
Some LITE-ON drive.
$23.99

HD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181
Samsung 500gb 7200rpm sata
$54.99

PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139008
Corsair 400w. Probably need something better?
$49.99

Case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811233058
Simple Gigabyte case.
$29.99 + 14.99 sh

~700 bucks.





Basically just modified the dude earlier with a similar budget.

I have NO clue about what I should be picking, here, in terms of balancing GPU/CPU. Any suggestions?

It looks decent enough but I'd go with full ATX board personally. Something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128392

or this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131603

If you want to save a little cash I'd look into making use of this combo:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.312206

You're really not losing any significant amount of CPU grunt with that (and you can make it all up through OCing anyway) but you're saving a fair amount of cash.
 
This sounds stupid but does anyone here have a login to the ATI Radeon forums on AMDs website? Can you try to login and see if it lets you? http://forums.amd.com/game/categories.cfm?catid=260&forumid=11

Im getting some goofy message that says "You are not authorized to login in to the forums, please correct the error and try again". That sounds like Im banned but what could I have possibly done to get banned from there? Theres no links to talk to a forum manager or anything.
 
brain_stew said:
It looks decent enough but I'd go with full ATX board personally. Something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128392

or this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131603

If you want to save a little cash I'd look into making use of this combo:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.312206

You're really not losing any significant amount of CPU grunt with that (and you can make it all up through OCing anyway) but you're saving a fair amount of cash.

Thanks a ton.
 
Fixed1979 said:
As long as he doesn't go with the 9800 GX2, and he already isn't pushing the limits of what the power supply can do then he should be fine. Both cards are very close in power consumption.

Thanks. His power supply is relatively weak I think (350 watts?). But the 8800GT has been fine with it. He's thinking of going with this version of the 9800GT:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4902101&CatId=3669

The only real difference is that his 8800GT is 512MB and this 9800GT is 1GB. A review mentions that this card works with a weaker power supply so that should be good, but would the difference in memory cause any issues. And/Or should this card be an improvement over his current 8800GT if only slightly?

Thanks again guys/gals!
 
So I'm pretty happy with the temps on my new PC, except the northbridge which seems a little worrying. It's normally around 80C. Is this normal?
 
corn_fest said:
Damn. So what should I look into? I have a couple extra 80mm case fans, or will that not be enough?

Does it have a heatsink on it? If so make sure it's seated properly. If not, you can get some copper heatsinks for pretty cheap that will just stick on. Also, are you sure thats accurate? What are you CPU/ambient case temps? Cause damn, that is hot. At the least get a fan blowing on it and see what that does.
 
SuperEnemyCrab said:
Does it have a heatsink on it? If so make sure it's seated properly. If not, you can get some copper heatsinks for pretty cheap that will just stick on. Also, are you sure thats accurate? What are you CPU/ambient case temps? Cause damn, that is hot. At the least get a fan blowing on it and see what that does.
Well actually, it turns out it's a pretty common problem on my motherboard, I'm not hitting 100C, which apparently is designed to be the max, so I guess I'll try some fans first.
Other temps:
CPU (core i7 920):
Idle mid 30s
Load high 60s
Motherboard: around 40
 
So im thinking since i built a new pc last semester for school that i would by a new laptop this semester for school. I have a price range of about $600-$900, does anyone have any recommendations? i dont need stuff like a blu ray player or touchscreen i just want a laptop that i can use for school development and also so mobile gaming would be nice. What things should i be looking for?? should i wait on things like SSD's? what kind of processor would be best on laptops?
 
corn_fest said:
Well actually, it turns out it's a pretty common problem on my motherboard, I'm not hitting 100C, which apparently is designed to be the max, so I guess I'll try some fans first.
Other temps:
CPU (core i7 920):
Idle mid 30s
Load high 60s
Motherboard: around 40


Well, as long as it's within the manufacturers specs I guess....

I would apply some quality thermal paste and re-seat the NB heatsink though, would be an easy fix and surely lower temps.
 
SuperEnemyCrab said:
Well, as long as it's within the manufacturers specs I guess....

I would apply some quality thermal paste and re-seat the NB heatsink though, would be an easy fix and surely lower temps.
I have some arctic silver 5, I assume I could use that, right?
 
I have an asus k8v with three slots for ram. which is better? 2 1GB sticks? or 2 1GB stick and a 512MB? They are all DDR400. I've read that when you use all the RAM slots, the speed of the RAM decreases. Anyone with advice? Thanks.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Northbridge at 80C? That seems off. Northbridge usually runs at 40C or so.
My NB on my PC has always been around 70C, but then I am overvolting it.

A tiny fan blowing on it will help. If you want to reseat that is even better.
 
Okay, so I'm getting a massive tax return and will thus order all the parts in 2 weeks or so. *happy dance*

What I'm wondering is whether or not my external hard drive will work since I am running XP on this machine and will run Win7 64bit on the new one. Would I have to reformat it? I was kinda banking on using it to make a painless switch to a new system because it's a 1TB and can hold all my stuff.

Here is my build plan
 
Dice said:
Okay, so I'm getting a massive tax return and will thus order all the parts in 2 weeks or so. *happy dance*

What I'm wondering is whether or not my external hard drive will work since I am running XP on this machine and will run Win7 64bit on the new one. Would I have to reformat it? I was kinda banking on using it to make a painless switch to a new system because it's a 1TB and can hold all my stuff.

Here is my build plan

You really (like really, really) should be going with a core i5-750 with that budget. The X4 965 is really just horrible value, I couldn't recommend it to anyone.

Switch that DVD drive to a SATA model.

If the Samsung F3's come back ins tock get one of them, they're larger capacity, cheaper and faster.

A 750W PSU is pretty major overkill in my book. I'd rather have a ~600w modular unit plus money in my pocket.

Your motherboard will come with a couple of SATA cables.

This RAM is cheaper, so get it instead:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0231277&cm_re=4gb_ddr3-_-20-231-277-_-Product
 
Dice said:
Okay, so I'm getting a massive tax return and will thus order all the parts in 2 weeks or so. *happy dance*

What I'm wondering is whether or not my external hard drive will work since I am running XP on this machine and will run Win7 64bit on the new one. Would I have to reformat it? I was kinda banking on using it to make a painless switch to a new system because it's a 1TB and can hold all my stuff.

Here is my build plan
As brain_stew said, move to an i5-750 + LGA1156 motherboard. Should be about the same cost. Also, why is your HDD so expensive? This 640GB is cheaper after shipping is factored, faster, and has twice the storage: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136320

You're also spending too much on your power supply imo. If you're spending $110, I think you could probably get a 650W modular PSU for that price.

Or just go with this case + PSU for $110: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129024&Tpk=sonata iii
 
Firestorm said:
As brain_stew said, move to an i5-750 + LGA1156 motherboard. Should be about the same cost. Also, why is your HDD so expensive? This 640GB is cheaper after shipping is factored, faster, and has twice the storage: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136320

You're also spending too much on your power supply imo. If you're spending $110, I think you could probably get a 650W modular PSU for that price.

Or just go with this case + PSU for $110: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129024&Tpk=sonata iii

I was gonna suggest that, shaves ~$100 off the budget and in the end you'd not notice the difference anyway.

Edit: Just spotted it but why in the hell are you pay $360 for a 5850 when they're available for $290!? Basically, I'd probably recommend changing every single item specified.

The custom cooler will come with its own paste applied better than you could ever manage so no real need for the $7 thermal paste either, though its handy to have some I'm never going to be a fan of the premium brands. You'll only ever get 1-2 degrees difference at most, its how well you apply it that matters, so saying that, if you want some spare for later on just get this for $2:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100302
 
Ditch that IDE burner, and pick up a sata one. Another recommendation for the Ripjaws. I picked up the same pair.


Another suggestion would be the Sapphire 5850 with the free PSU.
 
1) Fuck Intel. I don't want to support them as a company. I don't care if I sacrifice some power to leave them, this thing will be like 1000x faster than my current computer anyway.

2) I would rather have a PSU of more than sufficient power running cool and easy than a cheaper one getting into its upper side when I'm beasting a game. Plus the Sonata Elite case has a PSU included. I was going to sell it.

4) Thanks for the heads up on the RAM. Also, my computer is 10yrs old so I only recently learned about SATA. I forgot to update the DVD.

5) The Caviar Blue is supposed to be cooler and quieter than the Caviar Black, but now that I think about it, the other fans in the comp will probably be louder than either. Opting for the black now.

6) I wanted to go with XFX and the other models were sold out when I made this list. I can update to a cheaper one now and overclock myself since that's the only difference.

7) I didn't know the cooler had paste already applied. I was kind of nervous about applying the stuff so I'm glad.

8) Does anyone know about the external HD issue I asked about?
 
I placed my order, here's the parts that will be showing up hopefully this week -

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136284 - 1TB WD HDD

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289 - LiteOn DVDR

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102857 - ATI 5850 GPU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128412 - P55A UD3 Gigabyte mobo

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215 - Core i5 750

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153114 - thermaltake 600w PSU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277 - g.skill ripjaws 4gb

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129066 - antec case

It came to about 950 after tax/shipping unfortunately, but the other discounts on the parts/combo deals really offset that quite a bit. Even got a free new belkin surge protector to go with it. What's everyone think?
 
Dice said:
1) Fuck Intel. I don't want to support them as a company. I don't care if I sacrifice some power to leave them, this thing will be like 1000x faster than my current computer anyway.
If you are really that set on not supporting intel. Why don't you go with the 955 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...74&cm_re=Phenom_II_955-_-19-103-674-_-Product 965 has a really small performance increase over the 955. And you can easily get that small increase on your 955, with a simple overclock.
 
Okay, sounds good. Though overlcocking makes me nervous because I'm new to all this. :(
 
Now that Catalyst 10.1 is around the corner with apparent 3d support (at least for iz3d) could someone please explain to me if there is any use to buy one of the 120hz monitors (e.g. samsung 2233rz)?

I want to be able to game in 3d and have a radeon 5850. On a different issue I'd also use said 120hz screen as my third monitor for eyefinity.

In short, I could get an 2233rz for about 185€ while the next cheapest offer comes to about 250€. Would I gain anything (past, present, future ;) by buying this screen instead of a run of the mill screen?
 
adg1034 said:
GAF, I've been having some game issues. I'm sure you've all been playing a game at some point when your computer suddenly gets hit with a BSOD. Your system locks up, your speakers/headphones get stuck in a 1/10-of-a-second infinite loop, and you need to restart in order to do anything on your machine at all. My first problem is similar, but not identical. I'm playing Red Faction: Guerrilla, and suddenly, out of the blue, my computer locks up. The screen image stops changing and the sound goes into that infinite loop, but five seconds later, it snaps out of it. It's fine. The sound and video go back to normal, and I can keep playing. (Granted, this whole thing usually repeats itself about a minute later, but that's not really important.) I don't get any error messages, nothing shows up in Event Viewer, and I have no way to break down what's actually happened.

My second problem is far less severe, but no less annoying. Imagine, if you will, rolling an egg end-over-end. The bottom of the egg is heavier than the top, so while it takes more time for the bottom to reach the top of its arc, it's faster to roll back down than the other end. It's lopsided. I know this is a weird analogy, but Red Faction: Guerrilla is doing something similar. It's like there's a little crank inside my video card that controls the actual speed at which it displays graphics on the screen, but instead of turning the crank at a nice, even speed, it's almost as if one side is heavier than the other. When I'm driving in-game, it's like it's on a three-second loop: two seconds of normal output, then one second of sped-up output, like it just took a second and a half of visual data and compressed it into one second. It's too smooth to be called hitching, as I'm quite sure it's not the traditional framerate dip problem, but I'm not sure what else this could be.

(My writing's unusually florid today. Sorry.)

What graphics card do you have? This sounds similar to an issue several people (myself included) on the ATI Forums have experienced.
 
adg1034 said:
I'm playing Red Faction: Guerrilla, and suddenly, out of the blue, my computer locks up. The screen image stops changing and the sound goes into that infinite loop, but five seconds later, it snaps out of it. It's fine. The sound and video go back to normal, and I can keep playing. (Granted, this whole thing usually repeats itself about a minute later, but that's not really important.)

Sounds like ATI VPU recovery to me. Basically your video card is intelligent enough to reboot itself if it locks up, allowing you to play on or save and quit.

Can't believe nVidia still does not have this functionality.
 
I keep getting this error with my ATI display driver: "Driver has stopped responding and recovered safely." I'm using an HD5850 in Windows 7 64bit. A quick google search shows that lots of people are having the same problem with ATI drivers in Windows 7 but I haven't seen a solution yet. Is my only option to just wait until ATI releases a new driver and hopefully fixes it?
 
Hellsing321 said:
I keep getting this error with my ATI display driver: "Driver has stopped responding and recovered safely." I'm using an HD5850 in Windows 7 64bit. A quick google search shows that lots of people are having the same problem with ATI drivers in Windows 7 but I haven't seen a solution yet. Is my only option to just wait until ATI releases a new driver and hopefully fixes it?


What version of the drivers are you running? I haven't had that happen, running win 7 64bit and a XFX 5850. Currently I'm running the 10.1 beta's, from guru3d.
 
I really don't understand my CPU.

E6600 overclocked to 3.0GHZ (1.35V)
Zalman 9700LED HSF
Arctic Silver 5

It idles at 56 degrees. Turning the fan speed on the HSF up and down does nearly nothing. Under full Orthos load, it goes up to 64 degrees.

It's idling about 30 degrees too high, and it barely spikes under load.

=\
 
TheExodu5 said:
I really don't understand my CPU.

E6600 overclocked to 3.0GHZ (1.35V)
Zalman 9700LED HSF
Arctic Silver 5

It idles at 56 degrees. Turning the fan speed on the HSF up and down does nearly nothing. Under full Orthos load, it goes up to 64 degrees.

It's idling about 30 degrees too high, and it barely spikes under load.

=\

Are you sure those are the correct temps? Try with the Intel Thermal Analysis Tool..
 
Dice said:
1) Fuck Intel. I don't want to support them as a company. I don't care if I sacrifice some power to leave them, this thing will be like 1000x faster than my current computer anyway.

Fair enough, I think its stupid but its your perrogative. Either way get the 955 instead, you're paying a premium for 5 minutes OCing work with the 965.


2) I would rather have a PSU of more than sufficient power running cool and easy than a cheaper one getting into its upper side when I'm beasting a game. Plus the Sonata Elite case has a PSU included. I was going to sell it.

Your system won't be drawing more than 350w under load, you'd be achieving what you want with a 500-600w PSU. Leaving your PSU too under utilised is actually bad for efficiencey, ideally you'd want to be using around 60% of its capacity, which is what you'd be using with a 500w unit.

4) Thanks for the heads up on the RAM. Also, my computer is 10yrs old so I only recently learned about SATA. I forgot to update the DVD.

5) The Caviar Blue is supposed to be cooler and quieter than the Caviar Black, but now that I think about it, the other fans in the comp will probably be louder than either. Opting for the black now.

6) I wanted to go with XFX and the other models were sold out when I made this list. I can update to a cheaper one now and overclock myself since that's the only difference.

7) I didn't know the cooler had paste already applied. I was kind of nervous about applying the stuff so I'm glad.

8) Does anyone know about the external HD issue I asked about?

I didn't understand quite what you were asking, that's why I didn't answer, you really didn't explain it too well. If its just a media drive, of course it'll work fine, obviously you don't want to be using an external drive for programs and your OS.

Answered.


RayStorm said:
Now that Catalyst 10.1 is around the corner with apparent 3d support (at least for iz3d) could someone please explain to me if there is any use to buy one of the 120hz monitors (e.g. samsung 2233rz)?

I want to be able to game in 3d and have a radeon 5850. On a different issue I'd also use said 120hz screen as my third monitor for eyefinity.

In short, I could get an 2233rz for about 185€ while the next cheapest offer comes to about 250€. Would I gain anything (past, present, future ;) by buying this screen instead of a run of the mill screen?

ATI have said nothing about supporting 3D gaming, only 3D BDs.
 
TheExodu5 said:
I really don't understand my CPU.

E6600 overclocked to 3.0GHZ (1.35V)
Zalman 9700LED HSF
Arctic Silver 5

It idles at 56 degrees. Turning the fan speed on the HSF up and down does nearly nothing. Under full Orthos load, it goes up to 64 degrees.

It's idling about 30 degrees too high, and it barely spikes under load.

=\

Idle temperature reading are very rarely accurate, its not what the temp. sensor is designed to measure (it measure distance to TJmax fwiw and temp. programs work out a reading from that). I wouldn't worry, idle temps mean nothing in the grand scheme of things, as long as your load temps are fine (which they are) there's no real issue.
 
TheExodu5 said:
I really don't understand my CPU.

E6600 overclocked to 3.0GHZ (1.35V)
Zalman 9700LED HSF
Arctic Silver 5

It idles at 56 degrees. Turning the fan speed on the HSF up and down does nearly nothing. Under full Orthos load, it goes up to 64 degrees.

It's idling about 30 degrees too high, and it barely spikes under load.

=\
Are you sure the hsf is mounted properly? I've had one of those stupid push pins pop out on me before.
 
Brain stew I'm looking for a £600-£900 PC build for UK, used mostly for gaming and photoshop I'd appreciate if you could make one for me since I have a 4-5 year old pre-built computer which I bought for £400 back in the day when I knew nothing about computers lol or would you suggest I wait till the prices come down later on in the year which I have the option of doing
 
UnblessedSoul said:
Brain stew I'm looking for a £600-£900 PC build for UK, used mostly for gaming and photoshop I'd appreciate if you could make one for me since I have a 4-5 year old pre-built computer which I bought for £400 back in the day when I knew nothing about computers lol or would you suggest I wait till the prices come down later on in the year which I have the option of doing

No reason you can't buy now, go:

i7-860
1156 motherboard
4GB DDR3 (with a possible upgrade to 8GB later on)
5850
1TB Samsung F3
500w+ PSU from a decent brand
Case is personal preference
SATA DVDRW drive, any will do
 
Sapphire HD 5850 1GB GDDR5 - £255.16
Intel Core i7 860 2.8GHz Socket LGA 1156 8MB L3 Cache Retail Boxed Processor - £221.06
Samsung HD103SJ Spinpoint F3 1TB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 32MB Cache - £64.00
Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2 iP55 Socket 1156 8 channel audio mATX Motherboard - £82.02
Kingston 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz/PC3-12800 HyperX Memory Kit CL9 - £100.06
Antec 1200 Full Tower Case + Antec CP 850W Modular PSU - "Exclusive Special Offer Bundle" - £156.51
Samsung SH-S223 22X DVD±RW/RAM/DL Serial ATA Black Bare Drive - £14.04
Total - £922.70
Anything I should change?
 
So apparently there are issues with the Antec 900 and front headphone jack intergerence and I cant find any solutions that dont involved snipping off ground connections and praying.

That means the idea to use my headphones and a clip on mic for communication during online gaming is gone. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good USB headset?
 
Salaadin said:
So apparently there are issues with the Antec 900 and front headphone jack intergerence and I cant find any solutions that dont involved snipping off ground connections and praying.

That means the idea to use my headphones and a clip on mic for communication during online gaming is gone. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good USB headset?


yargh i was just thinking of getting that case because it's onsale today from newegg Xo
 
SuperEnemyCrab said:
What version of the drivers are you running? I haven't had that happen, running win 7 64bit and a XFX 5850. Currently I'm running the 10.1 beta's, from guru3d.
I'm running the latest one on AMDs website. 9.12 I think. Is there a more stable release I could get some where else?
 
sillymonkey321 said:
yargh i was just thinking of getting that case because it's onsale today from newegg Xo

Its a great case and there is a headphone jack on the back so its not like you cant use headphones. Its only an issue if you want to communicate via heaphones/mic using two separate devices instead of just one universal USB headset. It looks like this issue isnt only present in the 900 but in the 300 and 902 as well.

I wish there was a way to trick one of my rear speaker outputs into thinking it was the front. Its not a big deal to use USB though so Ill get over it.


Anyone ever try one of these? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...035&cm_re=usb_to_audio-_-12-186-035-_-Product
 
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