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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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jarosh

Member
claviertekky said:
Oh yay. A m-ATX PC Case GAFer. Nice.

Definitely the Lian Li if you can afford it. Otherwise, choose the other two.

Not a fan of Thermaltake cases although it's the cheapest one you can purchase. The Silverstone I've not used, but I put it in a dream build as it seemed OK to me.

Just be prepared for those mATX cases, you're going to have remove a few more screws and maybe even cards if you're going to service it.
that's alright. i'm not too scared of putting in some extra work. i considered a mini itx build with a silverstone sg07 at one point! haha:

4qq1S.jpg


yeah... although it does seem like it would be a fun challenge. i mean, they are built to take modern gpus and come with a 650w power supply!

the lian li... yeah, i've heard good things. it's just so FUCKING expensive. it'll cost me twice as much as the silverstone sg02 :/
 

B-Dex

Member
So water cooling yay or nay?

I just realized my current PC is LOUD so i'm kinda thinking i should get something a bit quieter :S
 

jarosh

Member
ok wait wait wait wait wait

3680_99.png


you're meant to put optical drives in sideways...? wtf! who thought that was a good idea? and why doesn't that seem to be bothering anyone? am i missing something? that's the lian li v352 btw. the 354 seems to have fixed that.
 

Eliciel

Member
hey everyone I am just a few steps away from ordering my pc components, but now I have some problems concerning the Antec 902 + scythe mugen 2 rev. b.

There are several articles that say that it only fits if you cut off the fan of the antec 902 a little bit. Has anyone this combo and can tell me if this is correct? Or if it just fits?

Thanks in advance
 
voady said:
hey everyone I am just a few steps away from ordering my pc components, but now I have some problems concerning the Antec 902 + scythe mugen 2 rev. b.

There are several articles that say that it only fits if you cut off the fan of the antec 902 a little bit. Has anyone this combo and can tell me if this is correct? Or if it just fits?

Thanks in advance

I'd get the HAF 912 or 922 instead if you're wanting to use a taller heatsink.
 
B-Dex said:
So water cooling yay or nay?

I just realized my current PC is LOUD so i'm kinda thinking i should get something a bit quieter :S

I don't like the hassle of water cooling. I've done it before, and it's not worth it to me. You CAN buy a lot of quiet components for your computer, and I'm ALL FOR trying to make your computer as silent as possible, but water cooling isn't the way to go.

You should check your PSU, mostly those are the loudest components on any computer. Corsair make some very good quiet PSU's.

The Corsair Water cooling closed system CPU coolers (while expensive) are also VERY good as well, I've owned a H50 and moved onto a H70 and wouldn't mind a H110 but I think it's probably major over kill. It's water cooling without the hassle really... a brilliant solution! Plus you don't need jet engine fans to be running over the radiator to keep it cool... I'll never use a different cooler again.

Then just try and install large and slow 120 or 140mm fans in your case (140 are generally the quietest for airflow ratio) while 120 are the ones that usually fit in the case holes that most people have. If you don't have an open case with a class side, I recommend Noctua fans. They're ugly mofo's (why they made them those crappy colours? WHY?) because even though I have them, I fucking hate them, I have a closed system but whenever I look in side I cringe at the site of them, but they've got oiled bearings and they're truly silent and definitely the way to go.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Moostache said:
THE GOAL:
A PC that will manage to:

1) get me into the new processors (stepping up from an Athlon 64 3400+ - 2.4 GHz, 512 kb L2 cache)
2) run Windows 7 (and Windows 8 soon enough) 64-bit Home Premium edition,
3) manage all HD video input to it (function as a part time HTPC and some video editting)
4) handle gaming at 1680x1050 for Crysis-type graphics (looking to play some BF3 with high details on it in the fall as well),
5) fit into a small form factor / semi-portable LAN case,
6) allow for BD-burning and archiving of photos/videos and movies,
7) and stay under $1,000.

I'm thinking the PSU is likely going to be a possible issue as is the case paired with the HD6850...if so I may have to switch that out but I really like the small height of that box!

Let it rip GAF...what sins have I committed?
Ditch the Hitachi. Get a Samsung F3 / F4 1 or 2TB
460 1GB + XFX Core 450w
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207012

Bit shorter and better value. I'd get the XFX Core, I might sub that in instead of the cx430w...
ShadiWulf said:
So I'm going to be building a new PC for Phantasy Star Online 2 and Sonic Generations. Also will be doing photoshop and illustrator work.

Here is a build I made. just wanted to see if other people think it's a good build. I'm not going to be building it immediately. Just wanted to plan something out.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=20567147

Country:
USA
Overclocking: No
Budget: Around $700
OP build. i3 2100 is better. F3 1TB is better. If you are able to drop more in the PSU I'd suggest the Antec BP550 or XFX Core 550w.
Soka said:
Switched to Small FTT (instead of Blend) and lowered my VCore to 1.295 and it ran for about 10 hours then BSOD as opposed to ~2 hours with 1.320 V. Starting to think it may be a RAM issue, so I'm running Memtest 86+ right now. 1.5 hours in with no errors. I already ran Windows Memory Diagnostic a few days ago and had no errors, so who knows.

If I get through 12 hours of Memtest 86+ without errors, I'll try Prime95 at 4.4 instead of 4.5 Ghz and bump my VCore to 1.300 using Small FTT testing. I think that might be the sweet spot for me to be 12+ hours Prime95 stable.

As semi-frustrating as this OCing business is, it's a good bit of fun too.
If it failed on Blend it failed on something. As cliche as it is I find Crysis to be a pretty decent overall test.
ColonialRaptor said:
The Corsair Water cooling closed system CPU coolers (while expensive) are also VERY good as well, I've owned a H50 and moved onto a H70 and wouldn't mind a H110 but I think it's probably major over kill. It's water cooling without the hassle really... a brilliant solution! Plus you don't need jet engine fans to be running over the radiator to keep it cool... I'll never use a different cooler again.
I don't like them. You can just get a CM 212+ and two low speed fans that will be as quiet and cool as well. They aren't that good especially for their price.
 

Eliciel

Member
Unknown Soldier said:
I'd get the HAF 912 or 922 instead if you're wanting to use a taller heatsink.

and if I want something more silent? HAF 912 and 922 have several reviews with "No Silent Fan" negatives....

So is there a case for taller heatsink with decent cooling and silence?
 

n0n44m

Member
Soka said:
Switched to Small FTT (instead of Blend) and lowered my VCore to 1.295 and it ran for about 10 hours then BSOD as opposed to ~2 hours with 1.320 V. Starting to think it may be a RAM issue, so I'm running Memtest 86+ right now. 1.5 hours in with no errors. I already ran Windows Memory Diagnostic a few days ago and had no errors, so who knows.

If I get through 12 hours of Memtest 86+ without errors, I'll try Prime95 at 4.4 instead of 4.5 Ghz and bump my VCore to 1.300 using Small FTT testing. I think that might be the sweet spot for me to be 12+ hours Prime95 stable.

As semi-frustrating as this OCing business is, it's a good bit of fun too.

it's not a RAM issue, it's probably the IMC (integrated memory controller) of your CPU that's the weakest link

I think you can increase on of the other voltage options (VPLL or something like that), which might make the IMC more stable. Check a good overclock guide to see which one exactly, I haven't needed it yet myself.
 

Eric WK

Member
So I just placed my orders at Best Buy and Newegg and all of my parts should be here late in the week or early next week at the latest. What's the best/cheapest way to get Windows 7 these days?
 

clav

Member
jarosh said:
ok wait wait wait wait wait

http://cdn5.tweaktown.com/content/3/6/3680_99.png

you're meant to put optical drives in sideways...? wtf! who thought that was a good idea? and why doesn't that seem to be bothering anyone? am i missing something? that's the lian li v352 btw. the 354 seems to have fixed that.
Oh hm. It never occurred to me that people still install internal DVD drives in their PCs.

I don't use DVD drives anymore as I have an external USB DVD drive I created from someone who gave me his broken laptop for scrap.

If that's a deal breaker to you, then go with the silverstone then.
 

Tabris

Member
Can someone do me a favor and build an HTPC build with the smallest form factor possible (and sleekest possible), 2TB drive, slim DVD drive (don't need blu ray as I will use PS3), HDMI out, and wireless n/bluetooth/IR receiver? It will also be inside a cabinet so good fan but quiet.

I have no problem building a PC but I'm not sure whether to go with Atom and what will fit into what case so I would love someone with experience with this to set it up.

Here's an idea of the kind of case I like: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811121115
 

ChaoticEko

Neo Member
Eric WK said:
So I just placed my orders at Best Buy and Newegg and all of my parts should be here late in the week or early next week at the latest. What's the best/cheapest way to get Windows 7 these days?


Well, If your in college, you can get it VERY cheap. Like $20 cheap. If your not, find someone who is. Slip them an extra $10. I've gotten quite a few copies that way.
 

man/man

Banned
Eric WK said:
So I just placed my orders at Best Buy and Newegg and all of my parts should be here late in the week or early next week at the latest. What's the best/cheapest way to get Windows 7 these days?


I think you know the answer.
 

Eric WK

Member
ChaoticEko said:
Well, If your in college, you can get it VERY cheap. Like $20 cheap. If your not, find someone who is. Slip them an extra $10. I've gotten quite a few copies that way.

Yeah, I know about the Microsoft Student program. Trying to get random friends to help me. Is it as simple as having them give me the link Microsoft sends them to the store?
 

n0n44m

Member
B-Dex said:
So water cooling yay or nay?

I just realized my current PC is LOUD so i'm kinda thinking i should get something a bit quieter :S

if you have money to blow, are a bit masochistic and love to tinker for hours and read up on what to buy for weeks YAY

else just grab a good CPU heatsink (not those fake closed water kits) with PWM fan(s), quiet (800 rpm max 120/140mm) casefans and aftermarket/non-reference GPU heatsink

*those H50 and so on closed kits' only advantage is that the actual cooler on the socket is quite small, so in a SFF case they might be a better option
 

The Stealth Fox

Junior Member
Weird, so I had to replace my motherboard due to bad lan (an asus m4a88t-m to an msi 880GM-e43), and for some reason my average framerate on the Arma II benchmark dropped 5 fps, even though the cpu, RAM, and GPU have not changed (well, I added a chassis fan also but who cares).

I wonder what's accounting for this. It's silly but I'm just curious...
 

ShadiWulf

Member
Hazaro said:
OP build. i3 2100 is better. F3 1TB is better. If you are able to drop more in the PSU I'd suggest the Antec BP550 or XFX Core 550w.

I did some talking with some friends. Checked out the parts in the OP build, looked at your suggestions, and lots of searching on newegg.

So I made a new build, slipped an i5 in, and managed to keep it around 700 dollars still! 704 dollars to exact.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=16588525

Think that's good? ^_^
 

scogoth

Member
ShadiWulf said:
I did some talking with some friends. Checked out the parts in the OP build, looked at your suggestions, and lots of searching on newegg.

So I made a new build, slipped an i5 in, and managed to keep it around 700 dollars still! 704 dollars to exact.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=16588525

Think that's good? ^_^

If you don't plan on getting an unlocked k series processor in the future you can save some more money by getting a H67 motherboard.
 
n0n44m said:
it's not a RAM issue, it's probably the IMC (integrated memory controller) of your CPU that's the weakest link

I think you can increase on of the other voltage options (VPLL or something like that), which might make the IMC more stable. Check a good overclock guide to see which one exactly, I haven't needed it yet myself.

Well, I went ahead and ran Memtest 86+ just to see what happens. I'm ~6 hours in with no errors, going to let it run another couple hours "just because" at this point. Did some more research and looks like I might want to try an offset voltage of around +0.005. Supposedly, that'll allow my Vcore to down-volt when not under heavy load unlike the fixed 1.32+ I was setting, but I'll just need to monitor my Vcore when testing under Prime95 to make sure it isn't going too high.

Looked into stabilizing the IML and it seems I'll need to adjust my VTT to about 1.10-1.20 max, so I may try that option too. Having issues finding a good guide for overclocking the 2500k on an Asrock P67 Pro3... seems like some guides suggest options which don't exist (or have fewer values than listed in guides) in my mobo.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
ShadiWulf said:
I did some talking with some friends. Checked out the parts in the OP build, looked at your suggestions, and lots of searching on newegg.

So I made a new build, slipped an i5 in, and managed to keep it around 700 dollars still! 704 dollars to exact.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=16588525

Think that's good? ^_^
Looks very good sans the GTX 560. You either want a 460 1GB or a 560Ti. You can get an eVGA 560Ti for $190 AR. The 560 is simply a faster 460.
If possible an upgrade to the 2500K will add a lot of longevity to your system (if you choose to overclock 3.4 -> 4.4Ghz).
I'd prefer 1.5V rated instead of 1.5/1.65V
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231438

PSU swap to this XFX Core 550W (I'll sub this in the OP soon) if you don't mind it being not modular. It's a better unit. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013

HDD to the Samsung 1TB (It's $50 on sale)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

Just minor stuff, the build as is now is still good. :)
 

ShadiWulf

Member
Hazaro said:
Looks very good sans the GTX 560. You either want a 460 1GB or a 560Ti. You can get an eVGA 560Ti for $190 AR. The 560 is simply a faster 460.
If possible an upgrade to the 2500K will add a lot of longevity to your system (if you choose to overclock 3.4 -> 4.4Ghz).
I'd prefer 1.5V rated instead of 1.5/1.65V
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231438

PSU swap to this XFX Core 550W (I'll sub this in the OP soon) if you don't mind it being not modular. It's a better unit. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013

HDD to the Samsung 1TB (It's $50 on sale)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

Just minor stuff, the build as is now is still good. :)

I'm just curious, what makes the 460 better then the 560? I wouldn't mind going with the 460 instead, I mean it costs less. I just got a friend who says I should go with the 560.

My friend also recommended I get this board instead http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157251 so I swapped it into my build, what do you think?

I swapped to the RAM and PSU you suggested. I'm just wondering though, what makes that PSU better? I've always heard its best to stick with name brands like Antec when it comes to PSU's.

as for the HDD. I'm fine with the one I got selected for the moment. I don't really use much storage.

Thanks for the feedback!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
ShadiWulf said:
I'm just curious, what makes the 460 better then the 560? I wouldn't mind going with the 460 instead, I mean it costs less. I just got a friend who says I should go with the 560.

My friend also recommended I get this board instead http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157251 so I swapped it into my build, what do you think?

I swapped to the RAM and PSU you suggested. I'm just wondering though, what makes that PSU better? I've always heard its best to stick with name brands like Antec when it comes to PSU's.

as for the HDD. I'm fine with the one I got selected for the moment. I don't really use much storage.

Thanks for the feedback!
The 460 and the 560 are the same card. The 560 is simply clocked higher.
If you overclock the 460 to 560 speeds it will be the same except use slightly more power.

The 560 Ti is a different card with more shaders.

That board is also fine, but you don't have an SSD and you already have a GPU. Since you are saving I don't see a need to spend the extra $10 so you can have video out from your motherboard.

The XFX is based on the tried and true Seasonic (best) S12II platform and is a better build than the Antec.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=225

The Samsung 1TB is $5 more and I believe more reliable. It will certainly be faster and just as quiet as well. Definitely should get that.
 

ShadiWulf

Member
Hazaro said:
The 460 and the 560 are the same card. The 560 is simply clocked higher.
If you overclock the 460 to 560 speeds it will be the same except use slightly more power.

The 560 Ti is a different card with more shaders.

That board is also fine, but you don't have an SSD and you already have a GPU. Since you are saving I don't see a need to spend the extra $10 so you can have video out from your motherboard.

The XFX is based on the tried and true Seasonic (best) S12II platform and is a better build than the Antec.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=225

The Samsung 1TB is $5 more and I believe more reliable. It will certainly be faster and just as quiet as well. Definitely should get that.
okay. switched back to the P67 board.

You mentioned something about a GTX 560 Ti for 190 dollars though. I can't find that. Would you mind giving me a link?

Nice to hear that about the XFX PSU, defiantly going with that then.

Thanks for the help! Helps me a lot
 

sestrugen

Member
I want to build a computer strictly for programming purposes (Visual Studio, Eclipse), I want to be able to use 2 monitors and use Windows 7 x64 and Linux(Ubuntu and OpenSUSE). What kind of specs do I need to look for? Quad/Dual core? will 8GB of RAM be enough?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
ShadiWulf said:
okay. switched back to the P67 board.

You mentioned something about a GTX 560 Ti for 190 dollars though. I can't find that. Would you mind giving me a link?

Nice to hear that about the XFX PSU, defiantly going with that then.

Thanks for the help! Helps me a lot
$10 promo is gone so it is $200 AR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130634
sestrugen said:
I want to build a computer strictly for programming purposes (Visual Studio, Eclipse), I want to be able to use 2 monitors and use Windows 7 x64 and Linux(Ubuntu and OpenSUSE). What kind of specs do I need to look for? Quad/Dual core? will 8GB of RAM be enough?
OP build + 2600K + 8GB + XFX Core 550W + GTX 460
It's gaming capable so spend as much as you want on the GPU as you feel comfortable.
An SSD will also be pretty beneficial for working and I suggest an Intel 510 120GB if you can budget it in.
Syphon Filter said:
What headsets are good for gaming? Any recommendations?
I hear the ATH-AD700 recommended, but they lack a level of bass I think. I personally like them and wear them constantly.
 

Eric WK

Member
My final build:

Intel®-Core™ i5-2500K Quad-Core 3.3GHz
MSI-ATX Motherboard 2133MHz (Socket 1155)-P67A-GD65 B3
EVGA-GeForce GTX 570 1.25GB
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Corsair-Professional Series 850-Watt ATX CPU
Western Digital-Caviar Black 1TB
Cooler Master-Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooling Fan with Heat Sink
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner
COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP Black Steel + Plastic and Mesh Bezel ATX Mid Tower

Hope I didn't make any totally dumb decisions there. Everything will hopefully be here by the end of the week, next Monday at the latest. It's going to be my first full build and assuming it posts fine, I think I'll throw The Witcher 2 at it out of the gate.

Thanks for all of the input and work in this thread, guys.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Eric WK said:
My final build:

Hope I didn't make any totally dumb decisions there. Everything will hopefully be here by the end of the week, next Monday at the latest. It's going to be my first full build and assuming it posts fine, I think I'll throw The Witcher 2 at it out of the gate.

Thanks for all of the input and work in this thread, guys.
I think you will enjoy it :)
Don't get frustrated if it doesn't work first boot!

Post pics before and after!
 

RS4-

Member
On the topic of the pricier Corsair water solutions, I'd rather buy one of the air coolers in that price range. Something like a Noctua D14, the Promlimatech Megahalem or a TRUE 120. Noise probably won't be an issue with those mentioned as you'll probably have other components that drown it out (GPU or PSU, or even a really good case).
 
GAF, I need a favour: I want to get back into FFXI/ WoW but don't have a PC at the moment, I was wondering if a small form PC could be used to play these games (mini ITX)? If so, I'd like to do it as cheaply as possible but would preferably run them on max settings, I know these games aren't too demanding but I'm unsure of the capabilities of these types of systems.

I'm fairly knowledgeable about desktops but when it comes to the smaller stuff I have no clue as I've never been interested in them before now.

Thanks!

EDIT: BTW, would a better plan be to simply build a cheap desktop using old tech e.g. Geforce 9800, core 2 duo or quad processor etc. ?
 

Gvaz

Banned
You could play them on medium (at least wow, dunno about ff11) on that cheap tech around the level you're thinking of, but not max, and especially not max if you're raiding.

I have a system twice as good as your suggestion and I can't play on max everything at 1080p during raiding unless you want to get like 15 fps or so.
 

AwesomeSauce

MagsMoonshine
PumpkinPie said:
GAF, I need a favour: I want to get back into FFXI/ WoW but don't have a PC at the moment, I was wondering if a small form PC could be used to play these games (mini ITX)? If so, I'd like to do it as cheaply as possible but would preferably run them on max settings, I know these games aren't too demanding but I'm unsure of the capabilities of these types of systems.

I'm fairly knowledgeable about desktops but when it comes to the smaller stuff I have no clue as I've never been interested in them before now.

Thanks!

EDIT: BTW, would a better plan be to simply build a cheap desktop using old tech e.g. Geforce 9800, core 2 duo or quad processor etc. ?


Unless you already have some of those parts on hand then no, it would cost more since 775 cpus are overpriced.

Look into AMD processors as a starting point if you're looking to build something not too high end but affordable.
 

comrade

Member
Tendo said:
If you don't ever plan to overclock you can save money getting an H67 motherboard. The stock fan is fine running at stock speeds. Also switch that HDD out for a Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB.
 

Smokey

Member
Coldsnap said:
Uhhhh look at my upload when I'm just chilling at my desktop. What should I do??

Untitled-10.png

I just got this after as well. Am I supposed to look the 2nd column for what is currently going on with my machine? What is the first column for (referring to the speeds above the graph)?
 

Tendo

Member
comrade said:
If you don't ever plan to overclock you can save money getting an H67 motherboard. The stock fan is fine running at stock speeds. Also switch that HDD out for a Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB.

Dumb question is dumb - all the H67 boards I see are mini-ATX - will those go into an ATX case?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Tendo said:
Samsung f3 1tb ($50 on newegg)
1) Go with 2400 + h67 board (save $80)
2) Get the ASRock in the OP for the same price.
mandiller said:
What's Computer-GAFs verdict on the Crucial C400 128GB SSD?

seen here: http://www.umart.com.au/pro/products_listnew.phtml?id=10&id2=159&bid=2&sid=75958

I've been looking at either that or an Intel X-25 M SSD.
Only go with a crucial/ocz drive if you are willing to put up with problems. Intel 510 120GB has my vote.
Tendo said:
Dumb question is dumb - all the H67 boards I see are mini-ATX - will those go into an ATX case?
micro atx will fit yes
 

Tendo

Member
EDIT - NVM - just saw the mobo you mentioned. I am trying to keep it all on Amazon but they don't offer it and that is loads cheaper. Thanks!


Also - now that I have a microboard I'd love the idea of a smaller case...the 900 is a beast. How are those Silverstone cases I saw linked above on stock cooling? Would my 260gtx fit?
 

jarosh

Member
anyone have some more thoughts on this:

jarosh said:
so, for weeks (months?) now i have been trying to decide on a good case for my new m-atx build. i think i've finally narrowed it down to these three:

- Lian Li PC-V352
- Silverstone SST-SG02
- Thermaltake LANBox Lite

now, i'd love to get the newer lian li from the same series (v354 i think), but it's just not available here in switzerland. i also would have gotten one of those wide silverstone desktop cases - those really seem to be the best desktop/small form factor cases out there - it's just that they're too damn wide and won't fit on my shelf. so it's gonna be one of the three up there.

what are your thoughts, pc-gaf? could really use some input!
 

mandiller

Member
Hazaro said:
Samsung f3 1tb ($50 on newegg)
Only go with a crucial/ocz drive if you are willing to put up with problems. Intel 510 120GB has my vote.

What problems?

The Intel 510 is even more expensive than the Crucial and I wasn't even going to originally spend the amount needed for the Crucial. Is it worth it?
 
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