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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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TheExodu5

Banned
Smokey said:
Now that I've had my machine for awhile...I think it's time for part 2 of my grand plan for my PC ...a 3D surround setup. I already have one ASUS 3D monitor, and if all goes to plan I should have two more by the beginning of August. I'm thinking I may have screwed myself with the ASUS DCII 580. I need another for SLI, and as we know it's triple slot. Could probabllllly make it work, but I'll have to look into it some more.

The bigger issue seems to be the 1.5GB RAM on the 580s. For a surround setup that's where the RAM really comes in, and I'm worried that's not enough. Actually I know it's not enough looking around various forums yesterday. I saw some Witcher 2 shots on a surround setup and it was amazzzinng. I don't know about selling this ASUS and getting the 3GB 580, as I love this card and it's temps...but if I go through with it that might be what I have to do :/

Yeah you're in a bit of a bad spot if you want to go 3D surround. The triple slot shouldn't be much of an issue...I'm pretty sure you can fit a second one in there (it will just make a few I/O ports less accessible on the motherboard), since you have a big case anyways. The issue, as you've said, is the lack of VRAM. Honestly, I don't feel the GPUs out there are powerful enough to warrant such a setup. It's basically like running 6x 1080p screens. I wouldn't count on getting acceptable performance with The Witcher 2 in surround 3D. Take whatever framerate you're getting now: you should expect to get 2/3 of that in the best case scenario with 2x the GPU power and 3x the pixel count. Considering SLI scaling isn't perfect, you might not even get that. Also, The Witcher 2 still doesn't properly support SLI.

IMO, wait. Wait for new video hardware. Wait for better screen technology. If I were doing surround, I'd definitely want those screens to be IPS due to the viewing angles.

Smokey said:
Why u be trollin me

But really I have this sort of grand vision for what I want to do. I'm about halfway done with this vision. I won't mention what I thought of yesterday out of fear of my PC brothers pointing and laughing lol.

DEM AMBITIONS

I really hate how the green team makes you buy a second card if you want a surround setup. BS.

You should check the NCIX video with surround 3D projectors. Basically, one super wide image with 3x DLP projectors side by side, giving a seemless super widescreen image in 3D, with no ghosting.
 

scogoth

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Yeah you're in a bit of a bad spot if you want to go 3D surround. The triple slot shouldn't be much of an issue...I'm pretty sure you can fit a second one in there (it will just make a few I/O ports less accessible on the motherboard), since you have a big case anyways. The issue, as you've said, is the lack of VRAM. Honestly, I don't feel the GPUs out there are powerful enough to warrant such a setup. It's basically like running 6x 1080p screens. I wouldn't count on getting acceptable performance with The Witcher 2 in surround 3D. Take whatever framerate you're getting now: you should expect to get 2/3 of that in the best case scenario with 2x the GPU power and 3x the pixel count. Considering SLI scaling isn't perfect, you might not even get that. Also, The Witcher 2 still doesn't properly support SLI.

IMO, wait. Wait for new video hardware. Wait for better screen technology. If I were doing surround, I'd definitely want those screens to be IPS due to the viewing angles.

IPS 3D monitors aren't going to happen anytime soon. Ghosting and response times would be major issues with an IPS display. But I agree with the 3D surround analysis, wait. If you're truly serious about it sell the ASUS GPU and pick up 2 Palit 3GB 580s or Gainward 3GB Phantom 580s. That should be enough for awhile but again 3D is at minimum halving your frame rate, probably more. With computational overhead and adding 3D profile problems on top of SLI profile problems 3D is in its infancy right now.
 

jarosh

Member
n0n44m said:
bearing just stopped working probably ... try if you can squirt some oil in it by taking the sticker off that covers the central hub
·feist· said:
Good chance it's a fan bearing issue. The majority of CM's fans are sleeve bearing, which can be problematic. You can try oiling it (just don't use something like WD-40), or, if you can't be bothered, look into getting a replacement.
maybe this is a stupid question but... what kind of oil do i use? and where exactly do i put it once i've removed the sticker? i never had to do this before. i already took the screws off and looked at the thing. there's definitely no damage and nothing wrong with it superficially.

...although i have to say: i'm quite enjoying this new quietness with the fan turned off. never realized how loud this thing was. i thought it was the cpu cooler that made the most noise (even though i replaced the stock cooler). maybe i'll just ditch the fan altogether. dunno, i'm not doing any gaming on this rig anymore and the i5 is running at stock speed... do i really need that fan?

·feist· said:
I thought the GD05 and GD06 were too wide for your setup? By the way, the new GD07 and GD08 have just debuted, though they're full ATX. There's also a new Lian Li PC-60, but it'll likely be as hard for you to find as the PC-50.

I don't believe you ever commented on the Fractal Design Define Mini and Arc Mini. If you aren't height limited, I still think a mini tower could be the best all around solution for your needs; spacious, compact and good cooling for gaming components. What was the issue with the SilverStone FT03 again?
i was hoping i'd get you to post by mentioning the gd06 :p

and yep, it's true, that whole series is too wide. but i'm also height limited (25 cm tops), which is why i never considered the fractal design ones. the height really isn't an issue with any of the desktop style cases or with the silverstone sg02. i do only have 43 cm of width to spare...

but bear with me, what i'm trying to say is: fuck all that. i'm sick of these half-baked compromises. i've considered and rejected so many near perfect cases because of a few centimetres that i just can't spare. so i'm now thinking of a different solution altogether: i'm about to invest some money in a couple of shelves that will be placed right next to my entertainment setup, so i might just put the new rig in there and run the cables through a hole in the back. that way i don't have to worry too much about width or even height anymore and i can get one of the silverstone gd-series or a mini tower :D
 

Jin34

Member
scogoth said:
IPS 3D monitors aren't going to happen anytime soon. Ghosting and response times would be major issues with an IPS display. But I agree with the 3D surround analysis, wait. If you're truly serious about it sell the ASUS GPU and pick up 2 Palit 3GB 580s or Gainward 3GB Phantom 580s. That should be enough for awhile but again 3D is at minimum halving your frame rate, probably more. With computational overhead and adding 3D profile problems on top of SLI profile problems 3D is in its infancy right now.

23 inch IPS 120Hz 1080p monitor from Mitsubishi announced. Too bad it's Japan only and costs a ton but at least they are starting to be made.
 

Ezahn

Member
Kyaw said:
Overclocking with the Sandybridges are so easy, you might as well OC from the start. If you are not sure, stick with the default cooler and see how much you can OC with them.

Well, if the stock cooler for the i5 2500k is not bad I could try and see how it goes.
It is very difficult/risky to change it later?
 
The anti-LED crowd will be upset when they see that Mitsubishi, Dell, LG, and others are starting to switch their IPS models over to LED backlight.


jarosh said:
maybe this is a stupid question but... what kind of oil do i use? and where exactly do i put it once i've removed the sticker? i never had to do this before. i already took the screws off and looked at the thing. there's definitely no damage and nothing wrong with it superficially.

...although i have to say: i'm quite enjoying this new quietness with the fan turned off. never realized how loud this thing was. i thought it was the cpu cooler that made the most noise (even though i replaced the stock cooler). maybe i'll just ditch the fan altogether. dunno, i'm not doing any gaming on this rig anymore and the i5 is running at stock speed... do i really need that fan?
You may not if your airflow is good enough, and depending on how your case is setup. If it's a PC which stays on very low load for the majority of use, you can go without or run the fan at a low rpm. Monitor your average use temps and see how that goes.

You can use lube made for sewing machines, fishing reels, and certain firearm lubricants. I just stick with simple fishing reel oil for the few remaining sleeve fans I have. Like n0n44m said, you can usually access the reservoir beneath the sticker on the fan. CM uses stickers on both ends, so you want the side where the fan wires are.

oil250.jpg


Some CM sleeve models have their reservoirs closed off so you'd have to puncture them.


jarosh said:
i was hoping i'd get you to post by mentioning the gd06 :p

and yep, it's true, that whole series is too wide. but i'm also height limited (25 cm tops), which is why i never considered the fractal design ones. the height really isn't an issue with any of the desktop style cases or with the silverstone sg02. i do only have 43 cm of width to spare...

but bear with me, what i'm trying to say is: fuck all that. i'm sick of these half-baked compromises. i've considered and rejected so many near perfect cases because of a few centimetres that i just can't spare. so i'm now thinking of a different solution altogether: i'm about to invest some money in a couple of shelves that will be placed right next to my entertainment setup, so i might just put the new rig in there and run the cables through a hole in the back. that way i don't have to worry too much about width or even height anymore and i can get one of the silverstone gd-series or a mini tower :D
Like an internet Bat signal.

25 cm would also be an incredibly tight ft for something like an SG02. Making those changes would definitely help open things up a bit. And if you stay with a GD05/06-type o enclosure it just blends in like another A/V component.

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/JimB/SAM_0121.jpg
 
My pc exploded. :( Game was on idle, and next thing I know, I hear what sounds like firecrackers coming from my pc. Next thing I know, system turns off, it sounds like something had burned. My 2 Radeon 6970's were definitely running on the hot side (90+) and my power supply was 950 watts. I'm assuming these two in combination took out my system? In a situation like this, is there any hope that any part of the pc is salvageable?
 

knitoe

Member
nextgeneration said:
My pc exploded. :( Game was on idle, and next thing I know, I hear what sounds like firecrackers coming from my pc. Next thing I know, system turns off, it sounds like something had burned. My 2 Radeon 6970's were definitely running on the hot side (90+) and my power supply was 950 watts. I'm assuming these two in combination took out my system? In a situation like this, is there any hope that any part of the pc is salvageable?
Hard to tell unless you got parts to swap out. Most likely, MB is gone. Try replacing that first and test the other components. Suggest, you order parts from places, like Amazon, that offer full refund for any reason in case the part wasn't damage.
 

Smokey

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Yeah you're in a bit of a bad spot if you want to go 3D surround. The triple slot shouldn't be much of an issue...I'm pretty sure you can fit a second one in there (it will just make a few I/O ports less accessible on the motherboard), since you have a big case anyways. The issue, as you've said, is the lack of VRAM. Honestly, I don't feel the GPUs out there are powerful enough to warrant such a setup. It's basically like running 6x 1080p screens. I wouldn't count on getting acceptable performance with The Witcher 2 in surround 3D. Take whatever framerate you're getting now: you should expect to get 2/3 of that in the best case scenario with 2x the GPU power and 3x the pixel count. Considering SLI scaling isn't perfect, you might not even get that. Also, The Witcher 2 still doesn't properly support SLI.

IMO, wait. Wait for new video hardware. Wait for better screen technology. If I were doing surround, I'd definitely want those screens to be IPS due to the viewing angles.

We shall see. If nothing else I still want to do a Surround setup...I just happen to have a 3d monitor as well. As far as TN vs IPS, I know IPS is superior but I really don't have any complaints with my ASUS panel. I love the 120hz, and with 2ms response time I don't really feel any lag using my consoles or gaming on the PC.

But at the very least I'd have to get another 580 to do 2+ monitors. My goal with getting into this was to have an experience on PC that I could not get on consoles. Surround sound/Eyefinity is apart of that to me. I guess I should get another 580 first and arrange for it to fit in my case first, and then get the monitors. I'll have to make it work as I really do like the ASUS. It's quiet and offers great temps for me.
 

Harpua

Member
Kambing said:
New user here, account just validated! Been lurking for 2 years, lol.

Just wanted to post in this thread to say thank you for all the discussions that have been made in regards to computer building for inexperienced people and also for all the information that was put into the OP. I was able to build my own kick ass computer 1 month ago all thanks to this thead. Best purchase i have ever done in regards to gaming.

Wanted to piggy back on this as I've just been validated as well. Big thanks to all in this thread! Made my choices and building so much easier.
 

jarosh

Member
·feist· said:
Like an internet Bat signal.

25 cm would also be an incredibly tight ft for something like an SG02. Making those changes would definitely help open things up a bit. And if you stay with a GD05/06-type o enclosure it just blends in like another A/V component.

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/JimB/SAM_0121.jpg
it is decided! i will get a silverstone gd05 or gd06! i just took the feet off my ancient yamaha receiver and discovered that i can squeeze it in somewhere else like this. desperate measures, lol. there's plenty of room for a silverstone htpc now!

is that your setup in the pic? looks sweet. gd05, right? i can get the gd06, it's just 50% more expensive. what say you? worth it?



oh and:
·feist· said:
You may not if your airflow is good enough, and depending on how your case is setup. If it's a PC which stays on very low load for the majority of use, you can go without or run the fan at a low rpm. Monitor your average use temps and see how that goes.

You can use lube made for sewing machines, fishing reels, and certain firearm lubricants. I just stick with simple fishing reel oil for the few remaining sleeve fans I have. Like n0n44m said, you can usually access the reservoir beneath the sticker on the fan. CM uses stickers on both ends, so you want the side where the fan wires are.

oil250.jpg


Some CM sleeve models have their reservoirs closed off so you'd have to puncture them.
thanks so much for the advice! will do.

this is embarrassing, what's a good tool to monitor my temps? never actually needed to before :/
 

Smokey

Member
jarosh said:
this is embarrassing, what's a good tool to monitor my temps? never actually needed to before :/

There are no embarassing questions in this thread, if there where I'd be somewhere near the top IMO :p.

Get HWmonitor for your temps.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
·feist· said:
The anti-LED crowd will be upset when they see that Mitsubishi, Dell, LG, and others are starting to switch their IPS models over to LED backlight.

LED is not inherrently bad. The shitty implementation by the cheap TN panel manufactuers is just not very confidence inspiring. Apple does perfectly fine with LED in their mobile displays.

On the other hand, take a look at Samsung LED monitors. Awful. Just awful. The blacks are downright terrible, whites are blinding (unless you lower the brightness to ~0), colors are completely off, and the backlight bleeding is the worst I've ever seen.
 

clav

Member
Hazaro said:
Ya

I just did 4 hours of reading and research today on this.

My suggestions:
$130 Das Keyboard with blues (less with emailed student discount ~$110)
$110 Ducky (sold at Tankguys)
$110 Zowie (Amazon)

All of those are MX blues

The Zowie is not a Cherry MX Blue keyboard (Cherry MX Brown).

I looked at the Black Widow which is $71 for the base version and while I like it and what is offers, the Razer build quality, firmware crap, and 2KRO cap on less used keys (like Z,X,C) makes me feel like it is a cheaper product.

I'll most likely be buying the DAS as soon as I get a respond on the educational discount.

Do you have the bluetooth icon in your taskbar? It should be launching on startup.
If it is gray you need to click it an turn it on if you haven't.
After it is turned on make sure your computer can be discovered and such in the settings.

Fixed.
 
TheExodu5 said:
LED is not inherrently bad. The shitty implementation by the cheap TN panel manufactuers is just not very confidence inspiring. Apple does perfectly fine with LED in their mobile displays.

On the other hand, take a look at Samsung LED monitors. Awful. Just awful. The blacks are downright terrible, whites are blinding (unless you lower the brightness to ~0), colors are completely off, and the backlight bleeding is the worst I've ever seen.
The difference is you actually have knowledge on the subject. There are people with strong pro and anti stances with nearly no reason why.

Agree on poor implementation being one of the biggest issues, though. Cheapness and cost savings just for the sake of having the "LED TV" or LED monitor bullet point. It obviously works, as a lot of buyers seem to think it's a display tech.

I'm just surprised at how much of a step back some companies have taken since it was first used on local-dimmed consumer models.


jarosh said:
it is decided! i will get a silverstone gd05 or gd06! i just took the feet off my ancient yamaha receiver and discovered that i can squeeze it in somewhere else like this. desperate measures, lol. there's plenty of room for a silverstone htpc now!

is that your setup in the pic? looks sweet. gd05, right? i can get the gd06, it's just 50% more expensive. what say you? worth it?
Not my pic up there. The 50% premium is not worth it, with the differences being almost entirely cosmetic (similar to an SG05 vs SG06). Mainly comes down to styling preference.

When you say squeeze the Yamaha in, I hope you still have enough area around it for exhaust.


jarosh said:
thanks so much for the advice! will do.

this is embarrassing, what's a good tool to monitor my temps? never actually needed to before :/
HWMon, RealTemp, Core Temp, Speccy, etc. There are links in the OP. Some people also like the simplicity of using Windows gadgets to monitor with.
 

dark10x

Digital Foundry pixel pusher
Alright, a buddy of mine wants to buy my i7-930 and GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R mobo to save some cash, and I'm thinking of selling, but I'd like to know what makes the most sense right now.

Obviously, Sandy Bridge chips have hit since I built my rig last year. Does it make sense to jump to one of the more recent i7 chips? Would I even see any significant benefit with a Radeon 5870?

It's a good chance to upgrade, but I'm not really sure it's worth it. Convince me!
 

Arnie

Member
Posting for the new page, didn't get an answer.

Me said:
What thermal paste do people recommend for the 212? I need to order some and I don't know exactly what to choose. Is it also complicated to apply? This will be my first gaming PC I'm building with my brother.
 

clav

Member
Arnie said:
Posting for the new page, didn't get an answer.
I like the Arctic Cooling MX-4 paste or the OCZ Freeze.

There's a picture floating around the internet how to apply it properly.

You basically draw three vertical lines on top of the aluminum ones (parallel) on the base of the heatsink.

I will admit the heatsink itself looks intimidating to mount, but it's actually really easy.
 

Arnie

Member
claviertekky said:
I like the Arctic Cooling MX-4 paste or the OCZ Freeze.

There's a picture floating around the internet how to apply it properly.

You basically draw three vertical lines on top of the aluminum ones (parallel) on the base of the heatsink.

I will admit the heatsink itself looks intimidating to mount, but it's actually really easy.
Thanks a lot I'll order that tonight. I'll check the OP for instructions on how to apply it.
 

Kambing

Member
I would really appreciate if someone could answer my question:

I have a 2500k CPU overclocked to 4.7 ghz, is stable etc etc. When i open CPU-Z, the core speed states 4.7 ghz. But when i do a computer scan on "Can you run it?" or open dolphin, both tell me that my CPU is @ 3.30 ghz. Am i doing something wrong here?
 

n0n44m

Member
RS4- said:
http://i.imgur.com/3NCc2.jpg[IMG]

lol. Yeah, I don't know what to say about that. Video of it here: [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMuYBEfvqUI[/url][/QUOTE]

I do :

" Friends don't let friends buy Thermaltake "

:p
 

Eric WK

Member
Kambing said:
I would really appreciate if someone could answer my question:

I have a 2500k CPU overclocked to 4.7 ghz, is stable etc etc. When i open CPU-Z, the core speed states 4.7 ghz. But when i do a computer scan on "Can you run it?" or open dolphin, both tell me that my CPU is @ 3.30 ghz. Am i doing something wrong here?

I don't know for sure, but it's likely that Can You Run It is literally just reading what components you have and their stock specifications.
 
Kambing said:
I would really appreciate if someone could answer my question:

I have a 2500k CPU overclocked to 4.7 ghz, is stable etc etc. When i open CPU-Z, the core speed states 4.7 ghz. But when i do a computer scan on "Can you run it?" or open dolphin, both tell me that my CPU is @ 3.30 ghz. Am i doing something wrong here?
Sounds like they're reporting the stock frequency by default. Open Windows properties and you should see your 2500K listed with stock frequency, and OC frequency next to it.


dark10x said:
Alright, a buddy of mine wants to buy my i7-930 and GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R mobo to save some cash, and I'm thinking of selling, but I'd like to know what makes the most sense right now.

Obviously, Sandy Bridge chips have hit since I built my rig last year. Does it make sense to jump to one of the more recent i7 chips? Would I even see any significant benefit with a Radeon 5870?

It's a good chance to upgrade, but I'm not really sure it's worth it. Convince me!
I wouldn't upgrade. I've never been a fan of always upgrading each CPU/GPU generation like some users, unless the differences are pronounced. An overclocked 930 is going to be fast for years of gaming and general use. The only thing I'd possibly consider upgrading to from an OC 930, would be an LGA 2011 SB-E (motherboard features), or LGA 1155 Ivy Bridge (IPC increases, reduced consumption).

A current 2500K/2600K draws less power, is a bit faster clock for clock, and has Quick Sync if your need it. Real world use isn't going to be worth it. See what IB offers, the eventual SB-E shrink, and of course, Haswell.
 
Kambing said:
I would really appreciate if someone could answer my question:

I have a 2500k CPU overclocked to 4.7 ghz, is stable etc etc. When i open CPU-Z, the core speed states 4.7 ghz. But when i do a computer scan on "Can you run it?" or open dolphin, both tell me that my CPU is @ 3.30 ghz. Am i doing something wrong here?

Don't know if this is it, but try opening some applications (like youtube), and see if your ghz jumps up to 4.7.
 

Wazzim

Banned
Kambing said:
I would really appreciate if someone could answer my question:

I have a 2500k CPU overclocked to 4.7 ghz, is stable etc etc. When i open CPU-Z, the core speed states 4.7 ghz. But when i do a computer scan on "Can you run it?" or open dolphin, both tell me that my CPU is @ 3.30 ghz. Am i doing something wrong here?
No, that's normal. Can you run it just looks at the 'identity' of the processor, not the actual clockspeed.
 

Kambing

Member
Eric WK said:
I don't know for sure, but it's likely that Can You Run It is literally just reading what components you have and their stock specifications.

Thanks, i did not know that.

·feist· said:
Sounds like they're reporting the stock frequency by default. Open Windows properties and you should see your 2500K listed with stock frequency, and OC frequency next to it.

Okay i just checked and you are correct, i see my OC frequency next to the stock frequency. Thanks a lot.
 
=0

I just opened my Corsair TX750 V2 Enuthusiast Series power supply, the last piece going into my build, after admiring how amazingly it was packaged and covered with a baggie and foam and such, I saw that every single power cable is attached to it!

I thought it would have detachable power cables like some PSUs do, where I could put only the ones I needed into it. It has SO many cables I do not need that will just clutter up my case and diminish the nice airflow I had going.

Ugh
 

n0n44m

Member
Scuba Steve said:
=0

I just opened my Corsair TX750 V2 Enuthusiast Series power supply, the last piece going into my build, after admiring how amazingly it was packaged and covered with a baggie and foam and such, I saw that every single power cable is attached to it!

I thought it would have detachable power cables like some PSUs do, where I could put only the ones I needed into it. It has SO many cables I do not need that will just clutter up my case and diminish the nice airflow I had going.

Ugh

well that's why it's not under modular power supplies on their website right :p

just use tie-wraps
 

clav

Member
n0n44m said:
well that's why it's not under modular power supplies on their website right :p

just use tie-wraps

Not a fan of zip-ties as when it comes to cutting the cord, you might actually cut the electrical wiring upon accident.
 

RS4-

Member
Scuba Steve said:
=0

I just opened my Corsair TX750 V2 Enuthusiast Series power supply, the last piece going into my build, after admiring how amazingly it was packaged and covered with a baggie and foam and such, I saw that every single power cable is attached to it!

I thought it would have detachable power cables like some PSUs do, where I could put only the ones I needed into it. It has SO many cables I do not need that will just clutter up my case and diminish the nice airflow I had going.

Ugh

Yeah I think only the AX and HX are modular. The former being 100% modular.
 

jarosh

Member
·feist· said:
Not my pic up there. The 50% premium is not worth it, with the differences being almost entirely cosmetic (similar to an SG05 vs SG06). Mainly comes down to styling preference.
welp, here's the most significant difference:

gd05: 2 x usb 2.0 front ports
gd06: 2 x usb 3.0 front ports

what's the verdict on usb 3.0 in the foreseeable future? relevant? i haven't come across any usb 3.0 devices myself just yet.

·feist· said:
When you say squeeze the Yamaha in, I hope you still have enough area around it for exhaust.
oh, no worries there ;)

Smokey said:
There are no embarassing questions in this thread, if there where I'd be somewhere near the top IMO :p.

Get HWmonitor for your temps.
·feist· said:
HWMon, RealTemp, Core Temp, Speccy, etc. There are links in the OP. Some people also like the simplicity of using Windows gadgets to monitor with.
thanks.

well, my i5 750 seems to be doing fine at ~50°C. but my gtx 260 is idling at 75°C! gasp! isn't that a bit high? i doubt a multi-monitor setup with nothing but win7 and a browser running could be that taxing on the gpu...?
 

n0n44m

Member
claviertekky said:
Not a fan of zip-ties as when it comes to cutting the cord, you might actually cut the electrical wiring upon accident.

that's what you got pliers for right? just don't cut at a 90degree angle to the cables
 

clav

Member
jarosh said:
well, my i5 750 seems to be doing fine at ~50°C. but my gtx 260 is idling at 75°C! gasp! isn't that a bit high? i doubt a multi-monitor setup with nothing but win7 and a browser running could be that taxing on the gpu...?
Flash. (Ah Ahhhhhhhh.) Check your browser for Flash animations/videos.

Yeah I would be worried about those temps on idle. My Geforce 9800GT idles at 65 degrees celsius, and I'm worried. I'm too cheap to spend it on aftermarket cooler either.

Just going to ride this card out until it dies.


n0n44m said:
that's what you got pliers for right? just don't cut at a 90degree angle to the cables

Yeah. Some of us are skilled to work around it.

I'm stating for those who are clumsy.
 

ithorien

Member
·feist· said:
The difference is you actually have knowledge on the subject. There are people with strong pro and anti stances with nearly no reason why.

Agree on poor implementation being one of the biggest issues, though. Cheapness and cost savings just for the sake of having the "LED TV" or LED monitor bullet point. It obviously works, as a lot of buyers seem to think it's a display tech.

I'm just surprised at how much of a step back some companies have taken since it was first used on local-dimmed consumer models.

What's baffling to me is how colorblind people are nowadays. The Samsungs and LG I was looking at before settling back on an LCD panel had their yellows quite literally one step away from lime green. Your eyes have to be really screwed.
 

Wallach

Member
Garryk said:
Been thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard. I was about to pull the trigger on a Das keyboard, but Newegg has the Blackwidow Ultimate for $100 today. I read that some people have problems with keys sticking. Any PC-GAFers have experience with either kb?

I'm probably one of the few keyboard nuts on NeoGAF. Personally I'd recommend the Das over the BWU unless you really (really) want backlighting.

You should peruse Geekhack for a while if you're really interested in a mechanical keyboard, honestly. You'll learn a lot and it'll be far easier to make an informed purchase.
 

jarosh

Member
claviertekky said:
Flash. (Ah Ahhhhhhhh.)

Yeah I would be worried about those temps on idle. My Geforce 9800GT idles at 65 degrees celsius, and I'm worried.
it can't be that one busted 120 mm fan in a big cooler master tower, can it? seems insane to me that that would make such a big difference and that the card's own cooling isn't able to maintain a low enough temperature when the thing is basically idling!
 

Arnie

Member
Can somebody tell me what the difference between this and the Arctic Cooling MX-4 is please? I can't seem to find the MX-4 paste from a decent retailer here in the UK. Would this paste do a similar job quality wise?

Also for a first build do you guys recommend an anti static wrist strap?
 

Ezahn

Member
Ezahn said:
Well, if the stock cooler for the i5 2500k is not bad I could try and see how it goes.
It is very difficult/risky to change it later?

I made some searches and it appears that thermal paste can be a problem when changing coolers at Later time... Is that so?
 

clav

Member
Arnie said:
Can somebody tell me what the difference between this and the Arctic Cooling MX-4 is please? I can't seem to find the MX-4 paste from a decent retailer here in the UK. Would this paste do a similar job quality wise?

Also for a first build do you guys recommend an anti static wrist strap?
Arctic Silver 5 has been used forever. People adhering to it are not willing to change/learn that newer pastes are better. The silver components also degrade within an year.

While AS claims the compound is not electrically conducive, it says it's capacitive and causes damage when applied incorrectly.

The newer compounds are much safer.

Stick to the MX-4.

As for the anti static wrist strap, you could, but that's nerding it out on another level. For me, I touch a door knob or the casing of the power supply before I work inside a computer.
 

Ryusei

Neo Member
Ok I know I have been in this thread with a few builds and no PC yet. I have encountered some financial obstacles but this week will be the time for me to finalize my purchases. I have to make a few sacrifices in terms of hardware in order meet my deadline this time. I am not the ultra high settings only PC gamer, so average settings are good for me as long as I dont run into a lot of problems. =P


Budget: Less than 900 (USA)
Main Use: Gaming
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Witcher 2, BF3, Skyrim
Are reusing any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX 520W)
When will you build?: less than 1 week
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

This is what I have so far but changes can be made. I like the reviews on the i5-2500k so if I can keep that at least ill be happy. If not, oh well I can upgrade later. And I would like a good graphics card since the previous one (Sapphire 6950) is out of stock. The current balance with all that is 652$

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152173
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320048
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231190
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072

*EDIT*
Considering this as my graphics card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150523&cm_re=6950-_-14-150-523-_-Product
 

ithorien

Member
Ezahn said:
I made some searches and it appears that thermal paste can be a problem when changing coolers at Later time... Is that so?

If you do a good job removing and cleaning with a high purity alcohol (91+ iso) there should be no issues whatsoever.
 

clav

Member
jarosh said:
it can't be that one busted 120 mm fan in a big cooler master tower, can it? seems insane to me that that would make such a big difference and that the card's own cooling isn't able to maintain a low enough temperature when the thing is basically idling!
Dude, a 120mm fan is huge.

Generally the bigger the fan, the more air it can push at a lower rpm speed with the added benefit of quiet performance.
 
Question for some Corsair Obsidian 800d users - the hot swappable drive connections on the inside of the case are only SATA2, correct? So if you want to do SATA3, are those connectors removable? I would imagine they are but I want to make sure before the case arrives.

EDIT: Nevermind. I found the SATA 3 upgrade kit on Corsair's site.
 

Arnie

Member
claviertekky said:
Arctic Silver 5 has been used forever. People adhering to it are not willing to change/learn that newer pastes are better. The silver components also degrade within an year.

While AS claims the compound is not electrically conducive, it says it's capacitive and causes damage when applied incorrectly.

The newer compounds are much safer.

Stick to the MX-4.

As for the anti static wrist strap, you could, but that's nerding it out on another level. For me, I touch a door knob or the casing of the power supply before I work inside a computer.
Cheers bought the MX-4, although the bastard cost me £1.50 in postage, GRRRR.
 
Back to my Corsair TX750, my case has the PSU mount on the bottom. Should I face the fan of my PSU up towards the inside of the case, or towards the vents on the bottom of my case?
 

Movement

Member
Scuba Steve said:
Back to my Corsair TX750, my case has the PSU mount on the bottom. Should I face the fan of my PSU up towards the inside of the case, or towards the vents on the bottom of my case?

You can do either, but I face it up towards the case.
 

jarosh

Member
i oiled the fan and it's working again! in fact, it seems like it's quieter than ever. seems like it needed some lube for a long time ;)

thanks pc-gaf!


claviertekky said:
Dude, a 120mm fan is huge.

Generally the bigger the fan, the more air it can push at a lower rpm speed with the added benefit of quiet performance.
yes, yes, i realize that. but, come on! idling at 75°C! that's insanity. with the fan back on it's idling at 66°C (cpu down to 40°)... definitiely still a bit worried. the good news is that it'll be switched out in a matter of days for a passively cooled budget card anyway :p
 
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