• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

Status
Not open for further replies.
You need to get the Pro version or higher of the Asus motherboard to overclock that 2500k.

this was a review of that motherboard

Pros: Simple setup and configuration, did the automatic OC and was pleasantly surprised. 4.6 right out of the box on air (using a Zelman cooler )... I really like the Bios setup

Cons: None !

Other Thoughts: My setup...
CPU 2500K
GPU XFX 5850
OCZ 600 power
Mem Kingston KHX1600C9D3X1K2 8gb
Zelman 9700

Running smooth at 3.3 (its all I really need).. I had to tweek the memory out of 1333 to 1600. The Bios made this a snap! Thank you Newegg and ASUS. This is really a low cost / high performance motherboard...

so this is not true then?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
this was a review of that motherboard

- snip -

so this is not true then?

The board is fine, it just needs to be P67 or Z68, and not H67/61.

Okay, so I've cleaned the CPU+heatsink, applied new thermal compound (MX-4) and have been running the computer at the BIOS screen for the last 25 minutes.

It is holding the temperature at 74 degrees centigrade, dipping and rising a degree either side then always returning to 74. A massive improvement over 120, obviously, but I understand 74 degrees is the temperature the CPU should be at under load, not idling at the BIOS screen.

I hear talk of a 'breaking in' period - can I expect those temperatures to fall further after time?

If they don't, is such a high temperature cause for alarm still? I appreciate I'll probably have to stress-test the CPU under load first to be entirely sure.

75C in the bios seems extremely unlikely if your CPU cooler is on, even if it's not on well. 120C even more so. Only things I can think of that could cause your problem is either forgetting to take the plastic off the bottom of the heatsink (it's happened to someone here before) or your thermal sensor is messed up. Edit: Or maybe totally messed up use of thermal paste, like using an entire tube all over the CPU, or not using any (which doesn't seem to be the case).

Check the temps with other programs in Windows like HWMonitor and see what you get for your CPU cores and the package.

And to answer your question, break in won't make that big of a difference. Not sure if MX-4 has one or not, but if it does it won't be long and it won't amount to more than a couple degrees.
 

Nemo

Will Eat Your Children
I have a little PSU connector question. I have the 8 pin cable that goes in the mobo where the CPU gets it's juice from I believe, but while the cable goes in without any problems, the shapes don't fit perfectly. For example some of the shapes on the mobo are blocks, but the cable has the rounded block that goes in. Before I turn it on, could this be a problem?
 

scogoth

Member
I have a little PSU connector question. I have the 8 pin cable that goes in the mobo where the CPU gets it's juice from I believe, but while the cable goes in without any problems, the shapes don't fit perfectly. For example some of the shapes on the mobo are blocks, but the cable has the rounded block that goes in. Before I turn it on, could this be a problem?

The shapes should match. Are you sure your not using the PCIe connector by mistake? The CPU cable is usually 4+4 pin and the PCIe is usually 6+2 pins.
 

Suairyu

Banned
75C in the bios seems extremely unlikely if your CPU cooler is on, even if it's not on well. 120C even more so. Only things I can think of that could cause your problem is either forgetting to take the plastic off the bottom of the heatsink (it's happened to someone here before) or your thermal sensor is messed up. Edit: Or maybe totally messed up use of thermal paste, like using an entire tube all over the CPU, or not using any (which doesn't seem to be the case).
It's not a new heatsink - this has been running fine for two and a half years before the problems I experienced last week. I discovered the stock thermal compound was all dried and nasty, which I assumed was the cause of the dangerous heat spikes, so I've made the replacement, but the temp still isn't great, obviously. I'll try HWMonitor now and see what they report.
 
Idk if I should pull the trigger on the SAMSUNG 830 Series F-MZ-7PC064DAM 2.5" 64GB or wait for the 128 gb to come back into stock.

Do a lot of people here run 128 gb? Is it worth it to have room for a couple of games?
 

Suairyu

Banned
HWMonitor reporting a maximum of 69 degrees centigrade, with it now holding at 58. So the temperature has been slowly falling since entering Windows. I'm not entirely sure why - the CPU fan has been running at 100% speed the entire time. Will keep this up for another 20 minutes just to see what happens, then move onto something more stressful.

What (free option) do people recommend using for a quick-and-dirty stress test of the CPU?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
HWMonitor reporting a maximum of 69 degrees centigrade, with it now holding at 58. So the temperature has been slowly falling since entering Windows. I'm not entirely sure why - the CPU fan has been running at 100% speed the entire time. Will keep this up for another 20 minutes just to see what happens, then move onto something more stressful.

What (free option) do people recommend using for a quick-and-dirty stress test of the CPU?

I use OCCT usually, most people seem to recommend/use the tried and true Prime95.
 
When are the next gen cards coming out? I heard early next year, but do we have any official statement and/or specs for them?

Cuz I am still using this 4850 and waiting patiently to upgrade.
 

Ysiadmihi

Banned
Your motherboard is an AM3 socket. It is not an AM2+ (although it supports it). AM2+ is the old socket that was able to support the Phenom II line if you didn't want to upgrade to an AM3 motherboard. The target socket of the Phenom II product line is AM3, which your motherboard already has.

And you motherboard is the exact same one as mine and the socket in it is an AM3, not an AM2+. So your original post doesn't make much sense (i.e. upgrading a X4 940 BE to another AM3 CPU, since the X4 already is an AM3)? The only other AM3 upgrade would be an X6, which you have had the opportunity to upgrade to in since the CPU got released.

Er, if you click the link in my first post, the page clearly says it is an AM2+ and the same goes for the CPU. The CPU support for the motherboard even says AM3 support was only added in the latest firmware update.
 

MC RaZaR

Neo Member
Idk if I should pull the trigger on the SAMSUNG 830 Series F-MZ-7PC064DAM 2.5" 64GB or wait for the 128 gb to come back into stock.

Do a lot of people here run 128 gb? Is it worth it to have room for a couple of games?

I have a 128 GB. I think its probably better than getting a 64 GB. For me, I don't think it's enough and I don't have that many games installed either. I have most of my stuff on a backup HDD too.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Er, if you click the link in my first post, the page clearly says it is an AM2+ and the same goes for the CPU. The CPU support for the motherboard even says AM3 support was only added in the latest firmware update.
Regardless, there isn't an upgrade path from a 940 unfortunately. At best you could grab a 970 or 1100T and hope to overclock the crap out of it, but the performance difference just isn't going to be worth the cost.

And what am I doing with it - just running it for a while (how long?) and keeping an eye on the HWMonitor numbers?
Yeah, just run that for a while and watch the temps. If it restarts, it's reading temps way too high. Thought it did that at 100C, but you were running at 120, so I dunno.
 

C.Dark.DN

Banned
So the damn capable and budget builds are dual core, and while a lot of games require dual core I see them recommending Quad.

How does performance compare between Dual and Quad in The Witcher 2 and Skyrim?
 

Suairyu

Banned
Yeah, just run that for a while and watch the temps. If it restarts, it's reading temps way too high. Thought it did that at 100C, but you were running at 120, so I dunno.
Was running not even a minute and had a leap up to 100C. I stopped there and shut the PC down.

Thermal compound helped the situation, but not fixed it.

I'm really at a loss as to what to do here.
 

mkenyon

Banned
So the damn capable and budget builds are dual core, and while a lot of games require dual core I see them recommending Quad.

How does performance compare between Dual and Quad in The Witcher 2 and Skyrim?
The i3 has four threads, and does better than similarly priced AMD quads. If you can manage it, the 2500k is certainly worth the boost, but only if you have a GPU that will be able to take advantage of the extra overhead.

Was running not even a minute and had a leap up to 100C. I stopped there and shut the PC down.

Thermal compound helped the situation, but not fixed it.

I'm really at a loss as to what to do here.
Are you certain you installed the heatsink correctly? This is the only thing that seems like it could be causing issues. You use too much thermal paste? Too little? How was it applied? Did you tighten the cooler evenly or ratchet one side down at a time? What kind of cooler is it? Possible that it was fractured while removing it?
 

MC RaZaR

Neo Member
When are the next gen cards coming out? I heard early next year, but do we have any official statement and/or specs for them?

Cuz I am still using this 4850 and waiting patiently to upgrade.

The high end AMD/ATI cards should be launching January 2012 if everything is on schedule. Nvidia cards are set for 2012, but there's not much info as to launch.
 

mkenyon

Banned
The high end AMD/ATI cards should be launching January 2012 if everything is on schedule. Nvidia cards are set for 2012, but there's not much info as to launch.
Last I heard the 78xx cards would be launching late Q1 with 79xx to follow. What's your source for January? This could have effects on me buying a 580 now or waiting.
Mind helping me out here a bit.

Someone recommended replacing my current Motherboard pick, with this ASUS one

Rest of my PC can be seen on the previous page, but I'm just wondering what the deal is. I don't know much about motherboards, but is the ASUS one that much better for gaming?
if you aren't going to ask a lot out of your system, then the prior should do fine. Despite ASRock improving in the past few years, I still couldn't buy one in good conscience. ASUS has earned my loyalty over the years and that difference in price is certainly with the reassurance.

Looking at reviews, th ASRock isn't the best for a high OC if that is important to you.
 
I currently have Senn HD280 PRO's for my PC for gaming but with BF3, I need a mic.

Anyone have experinece with the PC350 and PC360? Are there better options?

Any deals going on for PC350/PC360 for this weekend?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I currently have Senn HD280 PRO's for my PC for gaming but with BF3, I need a mic.

Anyone have experinece with the PC350 and PC360? Are there better options?

Any deals going on for PC350/PC360 for this weekend?
You can just add a clip on mic. PC 350s are amazing though. Been looking for a deal on them myself. Friend upgraded from them to the 360s and said it wasn't worth it.
 
I'm trying to decide between the two Blu-ray burners for sale on Newegg now.

LG WH12LS38 or LiteOn iHBS-112-04.

Does anyone have either of them? What are your thoughts?
 

Suairyu

Banned
Are you certain you installed the heatsink correctly? This is the only thing that seems like it could be causing issues. You use too much thermal paste? Too little? How was it applied? Did you tighten the cooler evenly or ratchet one side down at a time? What kind of cooler is it? Possible that it was fractured while removing it?
Thermal compound was applied as a bb-sized blob.

I'm almost certain the heatsink was applied correctly - when it came to ratchetted the four corner locks in place I did them one at a time at opposing corners (bottom left, then top right, then bottom right, then top left). I gave it a bit of a tug afterwards to see if was snugly secure and the thing didn't budge at all.

Now that it's cooled, I'm going to remove the heatsink and see if the thermal paste failed to spread or something.
 

shintoki

sparkle this bitch
Looking at reviews, th ASRock isn't the best for a high OC if that is important to you.

Okay, if I want to overclock the I5 Sandy Bridge I'm getting. How does one go about that too? It says its simple with the ASUS. What do I have to worry about?

Second, if I do overclock it, the power supply is strong enough still?

zUUvG.jpg


Replace current motherboard for the ASUS and you have my current configure I'm thinking off.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Okay, if I want to overclock the I5 Sandy Bridge I'm getting. How does one go about that too? It says its simple with the ASUS. What do I have to worry about?

Second, if I do overclock it, the power supply is strong enough still?
It's not that it won't, it might just hit a wall. With a 212+, you're probably not looking for something extreme anyway

The PSU will be just fine.

There are guides in the OP for OC'ing.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Under which circumstances would you guys recommend the maximus 4 extreme over the "mainstream" boards like the p8p67 pro or p8z68v-pro?
Now that OCing is done via the cpu multiplier, high-end boards don't seem worth it as much as before.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Under which circumstances would you guys recommend the maximus 4 extreme over the "mainstream" boards like the p8p67 pro or p8z68v-pro?
Now that OCing is done via the cpu multiplier, high-end boards don't seem worth it as much as before.
For multi GPU setups, LN2/water-cooling (closed systems like H100 don't count here), extreme OC'ing, or otherwise intense usage. Gene does all of that as well, but with fewer expansion slots. Voltage regulators and power design are still important for high OC's to be stable.
 

Suairyu

Banned
Now that it's cooled, I'm going to remove the heatsink and see if the thermal paste failed to spread or something.
As far as I can tell, there's a good spread of the paste, so the contact between HSF and CPU should be good.

I'll try again using the 'line' method of application and be extra extra sure when mounting the HSF. Hopefully this was just me being stupid.
 

AgentP

Thinks mods influence posters politics. Promoted to QAnon Editor.
My current plan to upgrade my E8400 HTPC cheap:

1. Buy i3-2100, cheap 1155 MB and 8GB
2. Take the i5-2300 from my kids HP desktop, drop in the i3
3. Put the 1155 MB, i5 and 8GB in my HTPC
4. Sell my old parts to a friend for $100

Try not to spend more than $150.

Sound like a plan?
 

mkenyon

Banned
As far as I can tell, there's a good spread of the paste, so the contact between HSF and CPU should be good.

I'll try again using the 'line' method of application and be extra extra sure when mounting the HSF. Hopefully this was just me being stupid.
If it doesn't work, try out another cooler. If that doesn't work, you might have faulty sensors. Does the heatsink get so hot you can barely touch it when it is under load?
 

shintoki

sparkle this bitch
It's not that it won't, it might just hit a wall. With a 212+, you're probably not looking for something extreme anyway

The PSU will be just fine.

There are guides in the OP for OC'ing.

And the heatsink would be adequate enough to keep the chip cooled? Its the recommended one and says comparability.

Basically, Does the set up look like it will work before I hit purchase? Heh. Decided to go with ASUS just to be on the safe side, for the additional 45$. I am looking to OC, so more of a precaution.

Final question, Galaxy Graphics card okay? Or should I upgrade to maybe like EGVA or another brand with a bit more recognition?
 

TheExodu5

Banned
The 212+ should be able to handle moderate overclocking. 4.6-4.8GHz shouldn't be an issue with a 2500K and 212+.

When mkenyon is saying extreme he most likely means 5.0-5.2GHz and up.
 

Smokey

Member
No you don't.


this was a review of that motherboard

Pros: Simple setup and configuration, did the automatic OC and was pleasantly surprised. 4.6 right out of the box on air (using a Zelman cooler )... I really like the Bios setup

Cons: None !

Other Thoughts: My setup...
CPU 2500K
GPU XFX 5850
OCZ 600 power
Mem Kingston KHX1600C9D3X1K2 8gb
Zelman 9700

Running smooth at 3.3 (its all I really need).. I had to tweek the memory out of 1333 to 1600. The Bios made this a snap! Thank you Newegg and ASUS. This is really a low cost / high performance motherboard...

so this is not true then?


Yes you are correct. That board will work fine. Mistake on my part. I've got the Pro version so that's why that thought came to mind. Forgot that it was still P67 so you're good.
 
Hey guys, how's this set-up look?

Processor
Intel Core i5 (i5-2500K) 3.3GHz Processor 6MB L3 Cache
(Overclocked to 4.5ghz)

CPU Cooler
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 CPU Cooler

Motherboard
GIGABYTE SKT-1155 Z68AP-D3

Graphics Card
Nvidia Geforce GTX 570 1.280GB GDDR5 DX11

Memory
8GB Corsair / Kingston 1600MHZ DDR3

Hard Drive
1TB SATA HDD

Optical Drive
22/24x Samsung/LiteON DVD/RW

Sound Card
High Definition 8 Channel Audio CODEC

Case
Xigmatek Asgard Case - Black

Power Supply
Corsair CMPSU-600CXv2 Builder Series 600W
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Oh okay, does everything else look sound then too?

I can't comment on the power supply, but everything else looks great to me. That's an amazing deal on the CM 690 Advanced II case.

edit: looking at some really quick reviews, it seems it's a good PSU. I'd like to know how long the cables are...a lot of manufacturers use annoyingly short cables that can't properly be routed in behind the motherboard tray. Specs are great on it...this is probably one of the better ~500W PSUs out there if the specs are at all accurate. Plenty of juice on the 12V rails. Good reviews on NewEgg.

edit2: get this one instead

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

The Corsair TX650 is known to be a great PSU in its range. It has really long cables as well. It's on sale for $59.99. That's an absolute killer deal.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Hey guys, how's this set-up look?

Where are you getting that from? Looks like something being built for you? If it's not, I'd recommend this PSU since it's the same price after rebate.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

Also wouldn't recommend that cooler. 212+ or A70 would be better options. You're also kind of skimping on the case, I'd recommend checking out the BF deals since there are some really good case ones on Newegg.

Edit: Ha! Linked the same PSU TheExodu5 did.
 

Mulligan

Banned
Trying to OC my GPU but when i get to a certain clock my drivers crash in 3D Mark..

The temps seem to be okay with only reaching a max of 64. Is this a driver error meaning i need to reinstall them or have i OC'd too far? I have a 560ti and i am at 970MHz core clock with 2160MHz memory clock.

Can anyone help?
 

shintoki

sparkle this bitch
I can't comment on the power supply, but everything else looks great to me. That's an amazing deal on the CM 690 Advanced II case.

edit: looking at some really quick reviews, it seems it's a good PSU. I'd like to know how long the cables are...a lot of manufacturers use annoyingly short cables that can't properly be routed in behind the motherboard tray. Specs are great on it...this is probably one of the better ~500W PSUs out there if the specs are at all accurate. Plenty of juice on the 12V rails. Good reviews on NewEgg.

edit2: get this one instead

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

The Corsair TX650 is known to be a great PSU in its range. It has really long cables as well. It's on sale for $59.99. That's an absolute killer deal.
Switched the power supply, but another question.

Are we talking about the heat sink or the motherboard still? Should I get the ASUS posted(It also mentioned that its a tight fit with the 212+ Heatsink. Or is the original motherboard in the current layout good enough?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Drop dropping in to answer real quick. Have a good weekend guys.
My current plan to upgrade my E8400 HTPC cheap:

1. Buy i3-2100, cheap 1155 MB and 8GB
2. Take the i5-2300 from my kids HP desktop, drop in the i3
3. Put the 1155 MB, i5 and 8GB in my HTPC
4. Sell my old parts to a friend for $100

Try not to spend more than $150.

Sound like a plan?
Sounds good.
Can anyone help?
That's it. Card is throwing out errors. Temps don't matter.
Switched the power supply, but another question.

Are we talking about the heat sink or the motherboard still? Should I get the ASUS posted(It also mentioned that its a tight fit with the 212+ Heatsink. Or is the original motherboard in the current layout good enough?
It's all fine, don't worry.
 

Suairyu

Banned
Re-did it, and by the grand power of 'who knows' the temperatures are lower again.

Idle at 55C
Load has maintained a steady 82C for 10 minutes now.

That's still far from ideal, but it seems stable.

Plus:
Does the heatsink get so hot you can barely touch it when it is under load?
No, that's the thing - I can hold my finger against the heatsink indefinitely. It just feels slightly warm, not hot.

edit -
The temperature has since dropped and remained at 76C.
My CPU is being weird.
 

Suairyu

Banned
Aaaand Prime95 off and idles back down to 54C. You know what? Fuck it. If it gets too hot again the safety feature will kick in and switch the damned thing off.

Back to Morrowind.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom