You need to get the Pro version or higher of the Asus motherboard to overclock that 2500k.
No you don't.
You need to get the Pro version or higher of the Asus motherboard to overclock that 2500k.
You need to get the Pro version or higher of the Asus motherboard to overclock that 2500k.
this was a review of that motherboard
- snip -
so this is not true then?
Okay, so I've cleaned the CPU+heatsink, applied new thermal compound (MX-4) and have been running the computer at the BIOS screen for the last 25 minutes.
It is holding the temperature at 74 degrees centigrade, dipping and rising a degree either side then always returning to 74. A massive improvement over 120, obviously, but I understand 74 degrees is the temperature the CPU should be at under load, not idling at the BIOS screen.
I hear talk of a 'breaking in' period - can I expect those temperatures to fall further after time?
If they don't, is such a high temperature cause for alarm still? I appreciate I'll probably have to stress-test the CPU under load first to be entirely sure.
I have a little PSU connector question. I have the 8 pin cable that goes in the mobo where the CPU gets it's juice from I believe, but while the cable goes in without any problems, the shapes don't fit perfectly. For example some of the shapes on the mobo are blocks, but the cable has the rounded block that goes in. Before I turn it on, could this be a problem?
It's not a new heatsink - this has been running fine for two and a half years before the problems I experienced last week. I discovered the stock thermal compound was all dried and nasty, which I assumed was the cause of the dangerous heat spikes, so I've made the replacement, but the temp still isn't great, obviously. I'll try HWMonitor now and see what they report.75C in the bios seems extremely unlikely if your CPU cooler is on, even if it's not on well. 120C even more so. Only things I can think of that could cause your problem is either forgetting to take the plastic off the bottom of the heatsink (it's happened to someone here before) or your thermal sensor is messed up. Edit: Or maybe totally messed up use of thermal paste, like using an entire tube all over the CPU, or not using any (which doesn't seem to be the case).
Haven't bought a monitor in years but this native contrast ratio scares me.
Am I crazy or is this a decent deal?
24" Viewsonic LED Backlit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116479&Tpk=viewsonic vx2453mh-led
HWMonitor reporting a maximum of 69 degrees centigrade, with it now holding at 58. So the temperature has been slowly falling since entering Windows. I'm not entirely sure why - the CPU fan has been running at 100% speed the entire time. Will keep this up for another 20 minutes just to see what happens, then move onto something more stressful.
What (free option) do people recommend using for a quick-and-dirty stress test of the CPU?
Your motherboard is an AM3 socket. It is not an AM2+ (although it supports it). AM2+ is the old socket that was able to support the Phenom II line if you didn't want to upgrade to an AM3 motherboard. The target socket of the Phenom II product line is AM3, which your motherboard already has.
And you motherboard is the exact same one as mine and the socket in it is an AM3, not an AM2+. So your original post doesn't make much sense (i.e. upgrading a X4 940 BE to another AM3 CPU, since the X4 already is an AM3)? The only other AM3 upgrade would be an X6, which you have had the opportunity to upgrade to in since the CPU got released.
And what am I doing with it - just running it for a while (how long?) and keeping an eye on the HWMonitor numbers?I use OCCT usually, most people seem to recommend/use the tried and true Prime95.
Idk if I should pull the trigger on the SAMSUNG 830 Series F-MZ-7PC064DAM 2.5" 64GB or wait for the 128 gb to come back into stock.
Do a lot of people here run 128 gb? Is it worth it to have room for a couple of games?
Regardless, there isn't an upgrade path from a 940 unfortunately. At best you could grab a 970 or 1100T and hope to overclock the crap out of it, but the performance difference just isn't going to be worth the cost.Er, if you click the link in my first post, the page clearly says it is an AM2+ and the same goes for the CPU. The CPU support for the motherboard even says AM3 support was only added in the latest firmware update.
Yeah, just run that for a while and watch the temps. If it restarts, it's reading temps way too high. Thought it did that at 100C, but you were running at 120, so I dunno.And what am I doing with it - just running it for a while (how long?) and keeping an eye on the HWMonitor numbers?
Was running not even a minute and had a leap up to 100C. I stopped there and shut the PC down.Yeah, just run that for a while and watch the temps. If it restarts, it's reading temps way too high. Thought it did that at 100C, but you were running at 120, so I dunno.
The i3 has four threads, and does better than similarly priced AMD quads. If you can manage it, the 2500k is certainly worth the boost, but only if you have a GPU that will be able to take advantage of the extra overhead.So the damn capable and budget builds are dual core, and while a lot of games require dual core I see them recommending Quad.
How does performance compare between Dual and Quad in The Witcher 2 and Skyrim?
Are you certain you installed the heatsink correctly? This is the only thing that seems like it could be causing issues. You use too much thermal paste? Too little? How was it applied? Did you tighten the cooler evenly or ratchet one side down at a time? What kind of cooler is it? Possible that it was fractured while removing it?Was running not even a minute and had a leap up to 100C. I stopped there and shut the PC down.
Thermal compound helped the situation, but not fixed it.
I'm really at a loss as to what to do here.
When are the next gen cards coming out? I heard early next year, but do we have any official statement and/or specs for them?
Cuz I am still using this 4850 and waiting patiently to upgrade.
Last I heard the 78xx cards would be launching late Q1 with 79xx to follow. What's your source for January? This could have effects on me buying a 580 now or waiting.The high end AMD/ATI cards should be launching January 2012 if everything is on schedule. Nvidia cards are set for 2012, but there's not much info as to launch.
if you aren't going to ask a lot out of your system, then the prior should do fine. Despite ASRock improving in the past few years, I still couldn't buy one in good conscience. ASUS has earned my loyalty over the years and that difference in price is certainly with the reassurance.Mind helping me out here a bit.
Someone recommended replacing my current Motherboard pick, with this ASUS one
Rest of my PC can be seen on the previous page, but I'm just wondering what the deal is. I don't know much about motherboards, but is the ASUS one that much better for gaming?
You can just add a clip on mic. PC 350s are amazing though. Been looking for a deal on them myself. Friend upgraded from them to the 360s and said it wasn't worth it.I currently have Senn HD280 PRO's for my PC for gaming but with BF3, I need a mic.
Anyone have experinece with the PC350 and PC360? Are there better options?
Any deals going on for PC350/PC360 for this weekend?
Thermal compound was applied as a bb-sized blob.Are you certain you installed the heatsink correctly? This is the only thing that seems like it could be causing issues. You use too much thermal paste? Too little? How was it applied? Did you tighten the cooler evenly or ratchet one side down at a time? What kind of cooler is it? Possible that it was fractured while removing it?
Looking at reviews, th ASRock isn't the best for a high OC if that is important to you.
It's not that it won't, it might just hit a wall. With a 212+, you're probably not looking for something extreme anywayOkay, if I want to overclock the I5 Sandy Bridge I'm getting. How does one go about that too? It says its simple with the ASUS. What do I have to worry about?
Second, if I do overclock it, the power supply is strong enough still?
For multi GPU setups, LN2/water-cooling (closed systems like H100 don't count here), extreme OC'ing, or otherwise intense usage. Gene does all of that as well, but with fewer expansion slots. Voltage regulators and power design are still important for high OC's to be stable.Under which circumstances would you guys recommend the maximus 4 extreme over the "mainstream" boards like the p8p67 pro or p8z68v-pro?
Now that OCing is done via the cpu multiplier, high-end boards don't seem worth it as much as before.
As far as I can tell, there's a good spread of the paste, so the contact between HSF and CPU should be good.Now that it's cooled, I'm going to remove the heatsink and see if the thermal paste failed to spread or something.
If it doesn't work, try out another cooler. If that doesn't work, you might have faulty sensors. Does the heatsink get so hot you can barely touch it when it is under load?As far as I can tell, there's a good spread of the paste, so the contact between HSF and CPU should be good.
I'll try again using the 'line' method of application and be extra extra sure when mounting the HSF. Hopefully this was just me being stupid.
It's not that it won't, it might just hit a wall. With a 212+, you're probably not looking for something extreme anyway
The PSU will be just fine.
There are guides in the OP for OC'ing.
No you don't.
this was a review of that motherboard
Pros: Simple setup and configuration, did the automatic OC and was pleasantly surprised. 4.6 right out of the box on air (using a Zelman cooler )... I really like the Bios setup
Cons: None !
Other Thoughts: My setup...
CPU 2500K
GPU XFX 5850
OCZ 600 power
Mem Kingston KHX1600C9D3X1K2 8gb
Zelman 9700
Running smooth at 3.3 (its all I really need).. I had to tweek the memory out of 1333 to 1600. The Bios made this a snap! Thank you Newegg and ASUS. This is really a low cost / high performance motherboard...
so this is not true then?
Processor
Intel Core i5 (i5-2500K) 3.3GHz Processor 6MB L3 Cache
(Overclocked to 4.5ghz)
CPU Cooler
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 CPU Cooler
Motherboard
GIGABYTE SKT-1155 Z68AP-D3
Graphics Card
Nvidia Geforce GTX 570 1.280GB GDDR5 DX11
Memory
8GB Corsair / Kingston 1600MHZ DDR3
Hard Drive
1TB SATA HDD
Optical Drive
22/24x Samsung/LiteON DVD/RW
Sound Card
High Definition 8 Channel Audio CODEC
Case
Xigmatek Asgard Case - Black
Power Supply
Corsair CMPSU-600CXv2 Builder Series 600W
The 212+ should be able to handle moderate overclocking. 4.6-4.8GHz shouldn't be an issue with a 2500K and 212+.
When mkenyon is saying extreme he most likely means 5.0-5.2GHz and up.
Oh okay, does everything else look sound then too?
Hey guys, how's this set-up look?
Trying to OC my GPU but when i get to a certain clock my drivers crash in 3D Mark..
The temps seem to be okay with only reaching a max of 64. Is this a driver error meaning i need to reinstall them or have i OC'd too far? I have a 560ti and i am at 970MHz core clock with 2160MHz memory clock.
Switched the power supply, but another question.I can't comment on the power supply, but everything else looks great to me. That's an amazing deal on the CM 690 Advanced II case.
edit: looking at some really quick reviews, it seems it's a good PSU. I'd like to know how long the cables are...a lot of manufacturers use annoyingly short cables that can't properly be routed in behind the motherboard tray. Specs are great on it...this is probably one of the better ~500W PSUs out there if the specs are at all accurate. Plenty of juice on the 12V rails. Good reviews on NewEgg.
edit2: get this one instead
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005
The Corsair TX650 is known to be a great PSU in its range. It has really long cables as well. It's on sale for $59.99. That's an absolute killer deal.
Sounds good.My current plan to upgrade my E8400 HTPC cheap:
1. Buy i3-2100, cheap 1155 MB and 8GB
2. Take the i5-2300 from my kids HP desktop, drop in the i3
3. Put the 1155 MB, i5 and 8GB in my HTPC
4. Sell my old parts to a friend for $100
Try not to spend more than $150.
Sound like a plan?
That's it. Card is throwing out errors. Temps don't matter.Can anyone help?
It's all fine, don't worry.Switched the power supply, but another question.
Are we talking about the heat sink or the motherboard still? Should I get the ASUS posted(It also mentioned that its a tight fit with the 212+ Heatsink. Or is the original motherboard in the current layout good enough?
No, that's the thing - I can hold my finger against the heatsink indefinitely. It just feels slightly warm, not hot.Does the heatsink get so hot you can barely touch it when it is under load?
Last I heard the 78xx cards would be launching late Q1 with 79xx to follow. What's your source for January? This could have effects on me buying a 580 now or waiting.
That is certainly newer than my last bit of info from a rep at PDXLAN. I wonder which will be true. Damn you rumors!Well, I take that back. January isn't official, but rumored.
http://www.guru3d.com/news/amd-radeon-hd-7900-release-dates-and-pricing/
http://wccftech.com/amds-generation-28nm-hd7000-series-southern-islands-graphic-cards-specs-leaked/