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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Hey PCGAF, this is all super new to me so please don't eat me alive.

So my PC is old and I'm long overdue for a new one. I can't play any modern games, I have 1 gig of RAM and I pretty much just use it for internet, downloading and wireless streaming to my consoles. My friend came over the other day to put together a build for me and as it turns out it almost matched the Pre-built "Excellent" build piece for piece. So for the sake of convenience I'm just pretty much going to get that. I know the spreadsheet says it's just a guideline and I should mix and match but I have no idea what I'm doing and I just really don't want to do the work. Guess that's why I've been console gaming this entire time.

So what kind of performance can I except out of the "Excellent" build? I'd like to play most modern games at 1080p 60fps and run Dolphin/PCSX2. I'll fill out the form in the OP just for the sake of it.

Your Current Specs: Irrelevant, OLD, NEEDS REPLACING

Budget:probably $1500 max, Canada. I'm not too worried about prices since I'm so long overdue for a new computer. I live in Vancouver so I could just walk into one of the many NCIX locations around here.

Main Use: Heavy gaming, Wii/PS2 emulation, general all purpose stuff. I'll also be connecting to the internet wirelessly since my current housing setup doesn't give me easy access to the router/modem.

Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Planning to use my 42" HDTV, maybe get a monitor for the desk when I don't feel like sitting on my bed. No current plans to upgrade that since I don't plan to get a new TV for a few years.

List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I'd like to have the option to play most if not all modern games at 1080p 60fps. Mass Effect series, Arkham City, Valve games, Crysis with mods if possible, Witcher 2, Skyrim, Mario Galaxy 1+2. The works.

Are reusing any parts?: My mouse, keyboard, speakers and monitor? Until I can replace them anyways. Nothing from the actual PC. Maybe my HDD until prices go down. Current HDD is 279GB max capacity.

When will you build?: Whenever, rather sooner than later. I guess ASAP but I'm not on a strict schedule.

Will you be overclocking?: My buddy says that if you don't know what you're doing, which I currently don't, then stay away from overclocking. So I guess that's a no. Although I can Google and learn from guides. I don't really even know the benefits of overclocking.


Your help in this matter would be greatly appreciated PCGAF.
 

Petrie

Banned
I'm looking at Newegg's current BF deals right now, do they have better stuff hitting at midnight?

Otherwise, recommendations for a new CPU/Mobo/RAM combo? Keeping my GTX 460 and have a 600W power supply you guys recommended earlier this year, but looking to do a BF upgrade.
 

Hellish

Member
Hey PCGAF, this is all super new to me so please don't eat me alive.

So my PC is old and I'm long overdue for a new one. I can't play any modern games, I have 1 gig of RAM and I pretty much just use it for internet, downloading and wireless streaming to my consoles. My friend came over the other day to put together a build for me and as it turns out it almost matched the Pre-built "Excellent" build piece for piece. So for the sake of convenience I'm just pretty much going to get that. I know the spreadsheet says it's just a guideline and I should mix and match but I have no idea what I'm doing and I just really don't want to do the work. Guess that's why I've been console gaming this entire time.

So what kind of performance can I except out of the "Excellent" build? I'd like to play most modern games at 1080p 60fps and run Dolphin/PCSX2. I'll fill out the form in the OP just for the sake of it.

Your Current Specs: Irrelevant, OLD, NEEDS REPLACING

Budget:probably $1500 max, Canada. I'm not too worried about prices since I'm so long overdue for a new computer. I live in Vancouver so I could just walk into one of the many NCIX locations around here.

Main Use: Heavy gaming, Wii/PS2 emulation, general all purpose stuff. I'll also be connecting to the internet wirelessly since my current housing setup doesn't give me easy access to the router/modem.

Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Planning to use my 42" HDTV, maybe get a monitor for the desk when I don't feel like sitting on my bed. No current plans to upgrade that since I don't plan to get a new TV for a few years.

List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I'd like to have the option to play most if not all modern games at 1080p 60fps. Mass Effect series, Arkham City, Valve games, Crysis with mods if possible, Witcher 2, Skyrim, Mario Galaxy 1+2. The works.

Are reusing any parts?: My mouse, keyboard, speakers and monitor? Until I can replace them anyways. Nothing from the actual PC. Maybe my HDD until prices go down. Current HDD is 279GB max capacity.

When will you build?: Whenever, rather sooner than later. I guess ASAP but I'm not on a strict schedule.

Will you be overclocking?: My buddy says that if you don't know what you're doing, which I currently don't, then stay away from overclocking. So I guess that's a no. Although I can Google and learn from guides. I don't really even know the benefits of overclocking.


Your help in this matter would be greatly appreciated PCGAF.


If your looking to squeeze a little more performance out of your budget try to pick up a used video card(or 2) there starting to drop hard with the new ones around the corner
 

Petrie

Banned
If your looking to squeeze a little more performance out of your budget try to pick up a used video card(or 2) there starting to drop hard with the new ones around the corner

Where would you recommend shopping for used?

Man I wish we had more PC centric shops around here. Seeing $150 for an i5 is just depressing, as I'd jump on that in a heartbeat. Looks like I'll keep waiting to upgrade until I can get a CPU/mobo at the price I'm hoping for. Hopefully Newegg comes through later in the holiday season.
 

Hellish

Member
Where would you recommend shopping for used?


Depends where your from
I picked up a MSI GTX 480 on Kijji for $150 (Toronto)
and then another Zotac GTX 480 AMP! Edition for $215 from Hardware Canucks (But was found on a local deals forums called redflagdeals)

So for $365 I have better performance then a GTX 590,

overclock.net's buy & sell
ebay (Know your prices if your going to look for cards but I noticed 480's tend to go for a minimum of $225 and range to $300 evga and the msi lighting tend to go for more)
your local kijji / craigslist
 
Shit.

I pulled the trigger this afternoon and didn't realize that Newegg would have a Black Friday special ON TOP of the Black Friday ads from yesterday.

I could've gotten a case and a monitor for a lot cheaper. Anyone know if I can talk to Newegg about it? Would they even have customer service reps working tomorrow?

Dammit.
 
If your looking to squeeze a little more performance out of your budget try to pick up a used video card(or 2) there starting to drop hard with the new ones around the corner
Thanks but as it's my first big boy PC I'm gonna try to keep it simple. I wouldn't even know what to look for.
 

Niblet

Member
Shit.

I pulled the trigger this afternoon and didn't realize that Newegg would have a Black Friday special ON TOP of the Black Friday ads from yesterday.

I could've gotten a case and a monitor for a lot cheaper. Anyone know if I can talk to Newegg about it? Would they even have customer service reps working tomorrow?

Dammit.

You miss %100 of the shots you don't take. - Wayne Gretsky

(try it. you've nothing to lose)
 

noire

Unconfirmed Member
Well, it has begun....First pc in 7 or so years.

Grabbed the newegg deals for the hard drive, ram, win 7, and optical drive ($170)

Ordered the silverstone dg05 and power supply from amazon for $150.

Now I need to get a CPU, mobo and gpu. Hoping to stay under $300.

This was a lot cheaper when I had parts to bring over from an old pc and questionable morals.
 

Nabs

Member
Only if you're looking for the 2500k ($150). I don't know if they are still doing it, but they used to have nice discounted motherboard and cpu combos. Keep 'em in mind as you look for the rest of your build.
 

Conceptor

Member
Someone talk me out of picking up an impulse SSD (Intel 320 Series GEN3 80GB) for $50 CAD after rebates. It would be my only drive until the prices on regular storage drives go down.
 

cdyhybrid

Member
OK, so it looks like Amazon isn't doing shit for the parts I wanted (the Standard build in the spreadsheet) so I'm leaning towards Newegg since it'll save me more money even if I were to use my friend's Amazon employee discount. However, they're out of the RAM on the spreadsheet, but the memory in the next build up is only like 10 bucks more, and it's 4GB more so why the fuck not? It appears to only come in the 1600Mhz variety though, not 1333. I get the case/PSU free with the HDD, they'll both work fine with this build right? Everything checks out and it won't fry itself or anything? It'll all fit in the case?

Here it is:

7mkpV.png
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Anybody know a good place to get a computer desk?

Need one with a keyboard tray, enough to fit two monitors and isn't L shaped.
 
I'm a bit confused by the ASUS 'Top' versions of graphics cards... I'm looking at the 560 Ti, and they offer what appears to be two versions of the same card, with the same DirectCU II cooler, but one is 830MHz and the other is 900MHz.

Do they really hand-pick the 'good' chips to be clocked higher like this? Would there be any any difference between running the 'Top' card at the default 900MHz and running the cheaper version bumped up by 70MHz? Extra strain or something? I have no idea how this works...
 
I'm a bit confused by the ASUS 'Top' versions of graphics cards... I'm looking at the 560 Ti, and they offer what appears to be two versions of the same card, with the same DirectCU II cooler, but one is 830MHz and the other is 900MHz.

Do they really hand-pick the 'good' chips to be clocked higher like this? Would there be any any difference between running the 'Top' card at the default 900MHz and running the cheaper version bumped up by 70MHz? Extra strain or something? I have no idea how this works...

No. Just buy the cheaper one, ALWAYS.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
So it's just a load of BS? There must be something to it... I'm guessing the 'Top' version runs cooler at the same clocks, so can potentially be pushed a little further?

There usually isn't any binning with GPUs. Some exceptions (MSI Lightnings maybe?) but the general rule is to just go for whatever is cheaper, because you can usually OC to match factory OCs pretty easily.

Same applies to CPUs usually, but somebody posted that AMD bins their X4 CPUs, which makes sense given that they offer so many Black Edition models.

OK, so it looks like Amazon isn't doing shit for the parts I wanted (the Standard build in the spreadsheet) so I'm leaning towards Newegg since it'll save me more money even if I were to use my friend's Amazon employee discount. However, they're out of the RAM on the spreadsheet, but the memory in the next build up is only like 10 bucks more, and it's 4GB more so why the fuck not? It appears to only come in the 1600Mhz variety though, not 1333. I get the case/PSU free with the HDD, they'll both work fine with this build right? Everything checks out and it won't fry itself or anything? It'll all fit in the case?

Here it is:

http://i.imgur.com/7mkpV.png

Case+PSU is probably free for a reason, you get what you pay for. If you have an HDD you can put in the PC, a 64GB SSD would be a good investment right now since it would cost less than almost any HDD. And you could spend the difference on a half decent case+PSU. The Asgard II+CX430 is a good budget combination, and that PSU is on sale right now for like $17 after rebate.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member

jstevenson

Sailor Stevenson
K guys.

Down to the final thing, the GPU. Got the 2500k, the ASUS Gen 3 Z68 board, 8gb of ram, the 212+, 650w PSU, case, HDD and SSD.

But what to do about the GPU? Been leaning 570gtx or mayyyyybe 560ti. Not sure which is the right one to pick up in the 570gtx land. Amazon is preferred over Newegg due to lack of sales tax.

I've also thought about going way under since I'll mostly just be playing SWTOR at first, then going big on the next-gen cards. The issue of course there is I think you need an Ivy Bridge processor to get full use out of PCI3 (which you need to get full use out of the new cards?). not sure I'm up for a processor upgrade in a few months as well, in which case I'd just stick to a GTX570 for a bit.

thoughts?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I have a 5770, starting to show age. I have just always had ATI cards so I am unfamiliar with NVidia numbers.

Is this card significantly better than my 5770?

GV-N56GOC-1GI GeForce GTX 560 OC 1GB PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX34482

Just looking for a black friday deal

Without looking at benches, I'd guess somewhere between a 25%-33% performance increase across the board. 560 (non-Ti model) is basically equal to a 6870, which is the successor to the 5770.

K guys.

Down to the final thing, the GPU. Got the 2500k, the ASUS Gen 3 Z68 board, 8gb of ram, the 212+, 650w PSU, case, HDD and SSD.

But what to do about the GPU? Been leaning 570gtx or mayyyyybe 560ti. Not sure which is the right one to pick up in the 570gtx land. Amazon is preferred over Newegg due to lack of sales tax.

I've also thought about going way under since I'll mostly just be playing SWTOR at first, then going big on the next-gen cards. The issue of course there is I think you need an Ivy Bridge processor to get full use out of PCI3 (which you need to get full use out of the new cards?). not sure I'm up for a processor upgrade in a few months as well, in which case I'd just stick to a GTX570 for a bit.

thoughts?
A few things here:

1) PCIe 3 doesn't really mean anything because no card is even reaching the limits of PCIe 2, nor will any next-gen card.
2) Ivy Bridge will be a minimal upgrade on the CPU side of things, est. 5% performance increase clock for clock, but it will probably have faster stock clocks to make up for that. Most of the improvements will be on the integrated GPU, which doesn't mean anything to you if you're getting a dedicated GPU for a gaming rig.
3) OC'd 2500k will last you quite a while, don't be concerned about that bottlenecking you anytime soon.

Can't really decide for you whether or not you want a next-gen card or not, but 570 vs 560 Ti just depends on what you can afford and/or what deals you find.
 
Pretty much. 560 Ti OCs pretty well anyway, I'm confident that most cards could hit 900MHz.
Ya but.... the one that is already OC'ed from the factory... could potentially OC even higher than the other one? This is the key point that I'm trying to nail down here.... there must be a reason why it's £30 more.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Ya but.... the one that is already OC'ed from the factory... could potentially OC even higher than the other one? This is the key point that I'm trying to nail down here.... there must be a reason why it's £30 more.
Not really a meaningful chance of it OCing higher, no. It's just a marketing gimmick in the vast majority of cases. Not sure if that sort of price difference is the norm for factory OC's over there, but in the States they usually are like $10 more or so, and for older cards it's not rare to find them the same price or even cheaper than stock cards.
 
Not really a meaningful chance of it OCing higher, no. It's just a marketing gimmick in the vast majority of cases. Not sure if that sort of price difference is the norm for factory OC's over there, but in the States they usually are like $10 more or so, and for older cards it's not rare to find them the same price or even cheaper than stock cards.
Interesting. Well you seem to know what you're talking about, so I'll go for the cheaper one. Thanks. :)
 

traveler

Not Wario
Think I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on a new machine and now seems like a good day to do it. I've never built a computer before or even upgraded an existing one, so I'm a total newbie to the process.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: I currently own a 4 year old Dell desktop with an Intel E6000 line dual core, (can't remember the exact model number, but it's 3.2 ghz) a Nvidia 8800GTX, and 4 gb of RAM. The graphics card regularly idles at 90 degrees Celsius under no load at all which makes actual gaming is unplayable, so I'm looking to replace the computer. (I'm going for a new computer as I wanted a better cpu and more ram, and it's a Dell computer, so I was unsure as to whether their parts would be incompatible with others.)

Budget: US. $1000 is the top end of what I'm looking to spend right now.

Main Use: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, 3D work, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback): Gaming is the main use. 1080p would be preferable but not necessary

Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? 1080p or 720p

List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I want to be able to run WoW and Diablo 3 maxed if possible. (I know Blizz games don't scale as well at high specs as they do with low, so this is optional) I have the PS3 version of Skyrim, but I'd like to run it on PC much better. Witcher 2 and BF3 are the two games I've held off playing specifically for this upgrade. I also want to be able to run GW2 well when that hits.

Are reusing any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX 520W): If I knew how, I'd love to use the Blu ray player out of my Dell if possible.

When will you build?: When do you want your computer, do you need it in a week, can you wait a month or two? I would like to take advantage of the sales going on today if the parts on sale would be a good match for the budget of rig I'm looking to get. I don't need the computer itself any time soon, though.

Will you be overclocking?: Not planning on it at the moment, but as I become more familiar with computer tuning and building, I could see myself doing it. Easy or good to OC doesn't need to be a high priority for the parts, though

I'm bringing this up today in the hopes that I can take advantage of any deals going around, so are there specific parts I should pick up today? I see that several of you have mentioned the i5 2500k processor deal as a good one. I'm 2 hours away from my apartment for Thanksgiving, but I'll be heading back up to Atlanta later today where there are 2 microcenters. I dunno if there will still be any in stock by the time I get there, though.
 
RAM HELP

I currently have 2 x 2GB 1333Mhz RAM modules
I recently acquired a 4GB 1333Mhz RAM module with the same timings (9-9-9-24)

Ao8Qp.png


These are my motherboard's RAM sockets.

Where should I place my sticks for optimal performance and so that the 2GB modules still run in dual channel?
 

jstevenson

Sailor Stevenson
Without looking at benches, I'd guess somewhere between a 25%-33% performance increase across the board. 560 (non-Ti model) is basically equal to a 6870, which is the successor to the 5770.


A few things here:

1) PCIe 3 doesn't really mean anything because no card is even reaching the limits of PCIe 2, nor will any next-gen card.
2) Ivy Bridge will be a minimal upgrade on the CPU side of things, est. 5% performance increase clock for clock, but it will probably have faster stock clocks to make up for that. Most of the improvements will be on the integrated GPU, which doesn't mean anything to you if you're getting a dedicated GPU for a gaming rig.
3) OC'd 2500k will last you quite a while, don't be concerned about that bottlenecking you anytime soon.

Can't really decide for you whether or not you want a next-gen card or not, but 570 vs 560 Ti just depends on what you can afford and/or what deals you find.

Ok. GTX 570 - which brand / card / cooler do you go with?
 

Rufus

Member
Where should I place my sticks for optimal performance and so that the 2GB modules still run in dual channel?

One in A1, the other in B1 (or A2 and B2). That being said, the diagram is a bit confusing. If I understand it right, from left to right: A1 (blue), A2 (grey), B1 (blue), B2 (grey). So you should use the first and third or second and fourth slot respectively.
 

luiztfc

Member
So I'm buying my buddy's pc as he is switching back to apple. It's a pretty solid rig (2600k, 8GB, 2xHD6970) and I want to format it to reinstall win 7 before using.

However, he has a 90GB OCZ Vertex 2 and a 1TB Caviar Black. I was planning on creating a partition for Win 7 on the SSD and installing only some games in the other partition, while using the Caviar Black for the rest that doesn't need that much speed.

I started reading/learning about SSD and I kinda started to worry. Do SSDs have a limited lifetime? Does that means I should not install/uninstall a lot of programs? I also read I shouldn't format the SSD, but how am I going to install Win 7? Finally, am I not supposed to fill up the SSD?

Sorry to bother with that kinda of questions, but I started reading online forums and I wasn't quite understanding.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Ok. GTX 570 - which brand / card / cooler do you go with?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121432

That's your best bet, especially after the rebate, and it comes with Arkham City for free (which may or may not interest you).

So I'm buying my buddy's pc as he is switching back to apple. It's a pretty solid rig (2600k, 8GB, 2xHD6970) and I want to format it to reinstall win 7 before using.

However, he has a 90GB OCZ Vertex 2 and a 1TB Caviar Black. I was planning on creating a partition for Win 7 on the SSD and installing only some games in the other partition, while using the Caviar Black for the rest that doesn't need that much speed.

I started reading/learning about SSD and I kinda started to worry. Do SSDs have a limited lifetime? Does that means I should not install/uninstall a lot of programs? I also read I shouldn't format the SSD, but how am I going to install Win 7? Finally, am I not supposed to fill up the SSD?

Sorry to bother with that kinda of questions, but I started reading online forums and I wasn't quite understanding.
SSDs are an area where I don't consider myself particularly knowledgeable, but I think I can answer this anyway.

First of all, you don't want to fill up an SSD. Runs faster with about 10%+ free space to work with.

Regarding the lifetime of an SSD, it's not something you should have to worry about as long as you have it set up properly. You do have a limited number of write cycles, but as long as you're using it in AHCI mode it should last longer than you would expect an HDD to (thanks to proper garbage collection/TRIM).

I'd just install Windows, programs you use a whole lot, and programs that have notable performance improvements on the SSD.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
And PC started rebooting again.

To summarize, I've tried two motherboards and two power supplies, so I doubt they are the issue (unless there was a similar defect in the replacement part).

This is the worst issue I've ever encountered. It's been a month and a half and I still have been unable to diagnose it. Is it possible for RAM to cause hard restarts (no BSOD)? I'm running my RAM at 1033 (down from 1600) now to see if it'll do the trick.

The weird thing: it is not related to the amount of stress my PC is under. I had stress tests running for 12 hours straight earlier this week without any issues. Today, it just reboot while browsing, and then it would reboot constantly unless I were to leave my PC alone for a little bit. That makes it sound heat related.

SHIT MAKES NO SENSE.



Besides my SATA 2 ports dying (which was an Intel issue), no complaints. I thought my motherboard was causing random restarts...but I guess not. Support kind of sucked since it took me 2 weeks to get a replacement motherboard using advanced RMA though.

edit:

http://communities.intel.com/thread/14387

Sounds like RAM might be able to cause hard restarts. I was under the impression I would get blue screens with RAM issues, but I guess that might not always be the case. I really, really hope the RAM is the issue. Otherwise, I'm at a complete loss.

Well, last night I could never get it to boot for more than 5 minutes before shutting off. I tried unplugging all drives and I left the PC on in the BIOS, and it still rebooted, so at least I can rule out the drives. I tried both RAM sticks individually, so I can "probably" rule out the RAM.

Then, I switched the power supply to the CX600 and left it on overnight, and it was fine. Now, does this mean switching the power supply did the trick? Or does it just mean something else in my PC stabilized and stopped causing issues. The fact that this problem can sometimes take a full week before it occurs again makes it impossible to troubleshoot.

I would assume it's the PSU, but then the CX600 rebooted once on me...but this might be because it was not providing adequate power for my GTX 570 and overclocked 2500k. I was really dumb in picking the CX600 over the TX650 as a backup PSU, because it's becoming an unknown variable in the equation.
 
One in A1, the other in B1 (or A2 and B2). That being said, the diagram is a bit confusing. If I understand it right, from left to right: A1 (blue), A2 (grey), B1 (blue), B2 (grey). So you should use the first and third or second and fourth slot respectively.

Diagram is a bit shit. Below it says Channel A is A1 and B1 (a bit of a misnomer I'd say). I should put my 2GB sticks in those slots for dual channel, and I assume the 4GB will be single channel and I can put it anywhere?
 

Mupod

Member
So I'm buying my buddy's pc as he is switching back to apple. It's a pretty solid rig (2600k, 8GB, 2xHD6970) and I want to format it to reinstall win 7 before using.

However, he has a 90GB OCZ Vertex 2 and a 1TB Caviar Black. I was planning on creating a partition for Win 7 on the SSD and installing only some games in the other partition, while using the Caviar Black for the rest that doesn't need that much speed.

I started reading/learning about SSD and I kinda started to worry. Do SSDs have a limited lifetime? Does that means I should not install/uninstall a lot of programs? I also read I shouldn't format the SSD, but how am I going to install Win 7? Finally, am I not supposed to fill up the SSD?

Sorry to bother with that kinda of questions, but I started reading online forums and I wasn't quite understanding.

Don't worry about the write limits too much, the main thing to do is make sure that Windows isn't set to defragment it. Win 7 does this automatically for SSDs though iirc. Formatting and installing windows 7 won't hurt it.
 
Without looking at benches, I'd guess somewhere between a 25%-33% performance increase across the board. 560 (non-Ti model) is basically equal to a 6870, which is the successor to the 5770.

what about the 5970, it says 200 dollars off so I presume it is a good deal. Then again I have been out of the loop for too long.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produc...5&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-14-103-195-_-Homepage2011

I am just looking for the the best video card upgrade from a 5770 for around 250
 
I picked up this ASUS motherboard at microcenter today for $60:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131781

Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it any good? Is that a good deal? I read some comments about some auto-rebooting of the BIOS, is that a common issue, or anything I need to worry about?

I'll be dropping an i5 2500K into it, but I probably won't be doing any extreme OC, though I'd like to at least have OC as an option.
 
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