yesAre you stress testing your proc in prime 95 after you select a multiplier and voltage?
yesAre you stress testing your proc in prime 95 after you select a multiplier and voltage?
All you can really try to do is add more voltage until the crash stops happening. I'd try to stay under 1.1v if possible though.Can anyone help?
I'm looking at Newegg's current BF deals right now, do they have better stuff hitting at midnight?
Otherwise, recommendations for a new CPU/Mobo/RAM combo? Keeping my GTX 460 and have a 600W power supply you guys recommended earlier this year, but looking to do a BF upgrade.
Hey PCGAF, this is all super new to me so please don't eat me alive.
So my PC is old and I'm long overdue for a new one. I can't play any modern games, I have 1 gig of RAM and I pretty much just use it for internet, downloading and wireless streaming to my consoles. My friend came over the other day to put together a build for me and as it turns out it almost matched the Pre-built "Excellent" build piece for piece. So for the sake of convenience I'm just pretty much going to get that. I know the spreadsheet says it's just a guideline and I should mix and match but I have no idea what I'm doing and I just really don't want to do the work. Guess that's why I've been console gaming this entire time.
So what kind of performance can I except out of the "Excellent" build? I'd like to play most modern games at 1080p 60fps and run Dolphin/PCSX2. I'll fill out the form in the OP just for the sake of it.
Your Current Specs: Irrelevant, OLD, NEEDS REPLACING
Budgetrobably $1500 max, Canada. I'm not too worried about prices since I'm so long overdue for a new computer. I live in Vancouver so I could just walk into one of the many NCIX locations around here.
Main Use: Heavy gaming, Wii/PS2 emulation, general all purpose stuff. I'll also be connecting to the internet wirelessly since my current housing setup doesn't give me easy access to the router/modem.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Planning to use my 42" HDTV, maybe get a monitor for the desk when I don't feel like sitting on my bed. No current plans to upgrade that since I don't plan to get a new TV for a few years.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: I'd like to have the option to play most if not all modern games at 1080p 60fps. Mass Effect series, Arkham City, Valve games, Crysis with mods if possible, Witcher 2, Skyrim, Mario Galaxy 1+2. The works.
Are reusing any parts?: My mouse, keyboard, speakers and monitor? Until I can replace them anyways. Nothing from the actual PC. Maybe my HDD until prices go down. Current HDD is 279GB max capacity.
When will you build?: Whenever, rather sooner than later. I guess ASAP but I'm not on a strict schedule.
Will you be overclocking?: My buddy says that if you don't know what you're doing, which I currently don't, then stay away from overclocking. So I guess that's a no. Although I can Google and learn from guides. I don't really even know the benefits of overclocking.
Your help in this matter would be greatly appreciated PCGAF.
If your looking to squeeze a little more performance out of your budget try to pick up a used video card(or 2) there starting to drop hard with the new ones around the corner
Where would you recommend shopping for used?
Thanks but as it's my first big boy PC I'm gonna try to keep it simple. I wouldn't even know what to look for.If your looking to squeeze a little more performance out of your budget try to pick up a used video card(or 2) there starting to drop hard with the new ones around the corner
Shit.
I pulled the trigger this afternoon and didn't realize that Newegg would have a Black Friday special ON TOP of the Black Friday ads from yesterday.
I could've gotten a case and a monitor for a lot cheaper. Anyone know if I can talk to Newegg about it? Would they even have customer service reps working tomorrow?
Dammit.
^^ got a microcenter anywhere nearby?
I'm a bit confused by the ASUS 'Top' versions of graphics cards... I'm looking at the 560 Ti, and they offer what appears to be two versions of the same card, with the same DirectCU II cooler, but one is 830MHz and the other is 900MHz.
Do they really hand-pick the 'good' chips to be clocked higher like this? Would there be any any difference between running the 'Top' card at the default 900MHz and running the cheaper version bumped up by 70MHz? Extra strain or something? I have no idea how this works...
Looking for a monitor and have money to spend which of these two should I get? http://bit.ly/tfPlVF or http://bit.ly/se459T
I would like to know this as well.Anybody know a good place to get a computer desk?
Need one with a keyboard tray, enough to fit two monitors and isn't L shaped.
So it's just a load of BS? There must be something to it... I'm guessing the 'Top' version runs cooler at the same clocks, so can potentially be pushed a little further?No. Just buy the cheaper one, ALWAYS.
So it's just a load of BS? There must be something to it... I'm guessing the 'Top' version runs cooler at the same clocks, so can potentially be pushed a little further?
OK, so it looks like Amazon isn't doing shit for the parts I wanted (the Standard build in the spreadsheet) so I'm leaning towards Newegg since it'll save me more money even if I were to use my friend's Amazon employee discount. However, they're out of the RAM on the spreadsheet, but the memory in the next build up is only like 10 bucks more, and it's 4GB more so why the fuck not? It appears to only come in the 1600Mhz variety though, not 1333. I get the case/PSU free with the HDD, they'll both work fine with this build right? Everything checks out and it won't fry itself or anything? It'll all fit in the case?
Here it is:
http://i.imgur.com/7mkpV.png
So the chips in the 'selected' models don't even run any cooler?
http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/NVIDIA_Series/ENGTX560_Ti_DCII2DI1GD5/
http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/NVIDIA_Series/ENGTX560_Ti_DCII_TOP2DI1GD5/
So they're just selling the second one for about £30 more just for people who can't be bothered to overclock the first one?
I have a 5770, starting to show age. I have just always had ATI cards so I am unfamiliar with NVidia numbers.
Is this card significantly better than my 5770?
GV-N56GOC-1GI GeForce GTX 560 OC 1GB PCI-E w/ Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX34482
Just looking for a black friday deal
A few things here:K guys.
Down to the final thing, the GPU. Got the 2500k, the ASUS Gen 3 Z68 board, 8gb of ram, the 212+, 650w PSU, case, HDD and SSD.
But what to do about the GPU? Been leaning 570gtx or mayyyyybe 560ti. Not sure which is the right one to pick up in the 570gtx land. Amazon is preferred over Newegg due to lack of sales tax.
I've also thought about going way under since I'll mostly just be playing SWTOR at first, then going big on the next-gen cards. The issue of course there is I think you need an Ivy Bridge processor to get full use out of PCI3 (which you need to get full use out of the new cards?). not sure I'm up for a processor upgrade in a few months as well, in which case I'd just stick to a GTX570 for a bit.
thoughts?
Ya but.... the one that is already OC'ed from the factory... could potentially OC even higher than the other one? This is the key point that I'm trying to nail down here.... there must be a reason why it's £30 more.Pretty much. 560 Ti OCs pretty well anyway, I'm confident that most cards could hit 900MHz.
Not really a meaningful chance of it OCing higher, no. It's just a marketing gimmick in the vast majority of cases. Not sure if that sort of price difference is the norm for factory OC's over there, but in the States they usually are like $10 more or so, and for older cards it's not rare to find them the same price or even cheaper than stock cards.Ya but.... the one that is already OC'ed from the factory... could potentially OC even higher than the other one? This is the key point that I'm trying to nail down here.... there must be a reason why it's £30 more.
Interesting. Well you seem to know what you're talking about, so I'll go for the cheaper one. Thanks.Not really a meaningful chance of it OCing higher, no. It's just a marketing gimmick in the vast majority of cases. Not sure if that sort of price difference is the norm for factory OC's over there, but in the States they usually are like $10 more or so, and for older cards it's not rare to find them the same price or even cheaper than stock cards.
Without looking at benches, I'd guess somewhere between a 25%-33% performance increase across the board. 560 (non-Ti model) is basically equal to a 6870, which is the successor to the 5770.
A few things here:
1) PCIe 3 doesn't really mean anything because no card is even reaching the limits of PCIe 2, nor will any next-gen card.
2) Ivy Bridge will be a minimal upgrade on the CPU side of things, est. 5% performance increase clock for clock, but it will probably have faster stock clocks to make up for that. Most of the improvements will be on the integrated GPU, which doesn't mean anything to you if you're getting a dedicated GPU for a gaming rig.
3) OC'd 2500k will last you quite a while, don't be concerned about that bottlenecking you anytime soon.
Can't really decide for you whether or not you want a next-gen card or not, but 570 vs 560 Ti just depends on what you can afford and/or what deals you find.
Where should I place my sticks for optimal performance and so that the 2GB modules still run in dual channel?
Ok. GTX 570 - which brand / card / cooler do you go with?
SSDs are an area where I don't consider myself particularly knowledgeable, but I think I can answer this anyway.So I'm buying my buddy's pc as he is switching back to apple. It's a pretty solid rig (2600k, 8GB, 2xHD6970) and I want to format it to reinstall win 7 before using.
However, he has a 90GB OCZ Vertex 2 and a 1TB Caviar Black. I was planning on creating a partition for Win 7 on the SSD and installing only some games in the other partition, while using the Caviar Black for the rest that doesn't need that much speed.
I started reading/learning about SSD and I kinda started to worry. Do SSDs have a limited lifetime? Does that means I should not install/uninstall a lot of programs? I also read I shouldn't format the SSD, but how am I going to install Win 7? Finally, am I not supposed to fill up the SSD?
Sorry to bother with that kinda of questions, but I started reading online forums and I wasn't quite understanding.
And PC started rebooting again.
To summarize, I've tried two motherboards and two power supplies, so I doubt they are the issue (unless there was a similar defect in the replacement part).
This is the worst issue I've ever encountered. It's been a month and a half and I still have been unable to diagnose it. Is it possible for RAM to cause hard restarts (no BSOD)? I'm running my RAM at 1033 (down from 1600) now to see if it'll do the trick.
The weird thing: it is not related to the amount of stress my PC is under. I had stress tests running for 12 hours straight earlier this week without any issues. Today, it just reboot while browsing, and then it would reboot constantly unless I were to leave my PC alone for a little bit. That makes it sound heat related.
SHIT MAKES NO SENSE.
Besides my SATA 2 ports dying (which was an Intel issue), no complaints. I thought my motherboard was causing random restarts...but I guess not. Support kind of sucked since it took me 2 weeks to get a replacement motherboard using advanced RMA though.
edit:
http://communities.intel.com/thread/14387
Sounds like RAM might be able to cause hard restarts. I was under the impression I would get blue screens with RAM issues, but I guess that might not always be the case. I really, really hope the RAM is the issue. Otherwise, I'm at a complete loss.
One in A1, the other in B1 (or A2 and B2). That being said, the diagram is a bit confusing. If I understand it right, from left to right: A1 (blue), A2 (grey), B1 (blue), B2 (grey). So you should use the first and third or second and fourth slot respectively.
So I'm buying my buddy's pc as he is switching back to apple. It's a pretty solid rig (2600k, 8GB, 2xHD6970) and I want to format it to reinstall win 7 before using.
However, he has a 90GB OCZ Vertex 2 and a 1TB Caviar Black. I was planning on creating a partition for Win 7 on the SSD and installing only some games in the other partition, while using the Caviar Black for the rest that doesn't need that much speed.
I started reading/learning about SSD and I kinda started to worry. Do SSDs have a limited lifetime? Does that means I should not install/uninstall a lot of programs? I also read I shouldn't format the SSD, but how am I going to install Win 7? Finally, am I not supposed to fill up the SSD?
Sorry to bother with that kinda of questions, but I started reading online forums and I wasn't quite understanding.
Without looking at benches, I'd guess somewhere between a 25%-33% performance increase across the board. 560 (non-Ti model) is basically equal to a 6870, which is the successor to the 5770.