Liquid you should just take the HSF off there and clean/reapply your thermal grease. When you go to reseat the HSF you need to angle the levered hook on there first, so that when you seat it you can force the other side down. I don't think you're going to have any luck trying to latch them now since the HSF is already flat against the CPU die.
Is there something up with 1055t's sensors or is it really eating 141 watts of power according to HWmonitor. I just overclocked the chip to 3.5ghz and checked it out.
Is there something up with 1055t's sensors or is it really eating 141 watts of power according to HWmonitor. I just overclocked the chip to 3.5ghz and checked it out.
For 669.00 am i getting a shit deal with all of this?
My System Details
PROCESSOR & GRAPHICS CARD AMD Phenom II X4 945 + ATI Radeon HD 5450 1GB edit
OPERATING SYSTEM Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English edit
WARRANTY AND SERVICE 1 Yr Ltd Hardware Warranty, InHome Service after Remote Diagnosis edit
MEMORY 6GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz - 4 DIMMS edit
MONITOR No Monitor edit
HARD DRIVE 1TB - 7200RPM, SATA 3.0Gb/s, 16MB Cache edit
OPTICAL DRIVE 16X DVD+/-RW Drive edit
SPEAKERS Dell AX210 Stereo Speakers edit
WIRELESS Dell 1525 Wireless-N PCIe Card edit
KEYBOARD Dell Consumer Multimedia Keyboard edit
MOUSE Dell Laser Mouse edit
SOUND CARD THX® TruStudio PC edit
MODEM No Dial Up Modem Option edit
My Accessories
OFFICE SOFTWARE Microsoft® Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word & Excel w/ ads. No PowerPoint or Outlook edit
SECURITY SOFTWARE McAfee SecurityCenter, 30-Days edit
ALSO INCLUDED WITH YOUR SYSTEM
Studio XPS 7100 Studio XPS 7100 Minitower
Network Card Standard USB 2.0 + 10/100/1000 Ethernet
Adobe Software Adobe® Acrobat® Reader
all i wanna do is be able to run current gen games no lag.
Liquid you should just take the HSF off there and clean/reapply your thermal grease. When you go to reseat the HSF you need to angle the levered hook on there first, so that when you seat it you can force the other side down. I don't think you're going to have any luck trying to latch them now since the HSF is already flat against the CPU die.
Graphics is far too weak. You can get a Dell with an i5 2400 for less than that even. Drop in a lowered power card and you can be alright with medium settings in some games. spend a bit more and you can sub the PSU in a tower and get a better GPU. (Add $200 to comp for a CX430 and a GTX 460)
If you can, I'd suggest you look to build your own and fill out the OP as you'll get a considerably faster computer.
Still getting blue screens with everything at factory clocks. Same error as last time.
Happens more when the ambient temperature is high.
Not sure why though, because all of my components are pretty much room temperature anyway, and I've never blue screened during gaming, even when it's for six to eight hours straight.
Finally installed the Heatsink, although I bent a little metal which shouldn't matter quite a lot. Haha, I never knew a heatsink can be such a pain in the ass.
Hey guys I need some help diagnosing a problem. I built a computer for my friend, a really, really nice one but he has an audio stutter at startup when it plays the startup chime and when playing internet videos like youtube as far as I know it's not an issue for game playing as he has Crysis 2 and it's fine as far as I know. I was looking into this and apparently it could be caused by a wireless networking issue according to some, can anyone think of alternate stuff besides that that I can try? If disabling the wireless NIC doesn't fix it, I think I might install windows on his backup drive and unplug his SSD to see if it's a drive issue.
Finally installed the Heatsink, although I bent a little metal which shouldn't matter quite a lot. Haha, I never knew a heatsink can be such a pain in the ass.
how many Thunderbird cores did you irreparably damage ?
I had a friend who first broke his own Thunderbird core, he could only afford a Duron after that
then he was installing a sink for another friend and his screwdriver got out of the latch while pushing it down, cutting through several layers of the PCB ....
I always plug my dell u2311h, granted I haven't owned any other IPS panels but I love it for the gaming I do on it ( and everything else that comes with an IPS panel ), people talk about lag but playing SSF4 on it I personally feel no difference compared other "lag-free" setups.
I always plug my dell u2311h, granted I haven't owned any other IPS panels but I love it for the gaming I do on it ( and everything else that comes with an IPS panel ), people talk about lag but playing SSF4 on it I personally feel no difference compared other "lag-free" setups.
that one's shockingly affordable! i can get it for 275 swiss francs. and reviews are really positive. really, that's like the cheapest ips based monitor i've seen around here period. seems like a no-brainer at that price. definitely a major step up from my horrific asus tn panel. thanks for the recommendation!
So just the 120 GB? And it doesn't affect their Force GT? This might explain why all the new SF drives have such a performance delta between 120GB and 240GB versions
Beaner said:
Ok looks relatively simple. Would it be easy to do that last method do you think, in terms of ease of making those lines?
Reading the instructions, CM advises to apply the compound directly to the heatsink. Now I'm paranoid about taking the heatsink off my AMD CPU. The Intel SB seem to have a much easier install and removal
that one's shockingly affordable! i can get it for 275 swiss francs. and reviews are really positive. really, that's like the cheapest ips based monitor i've seen around here period. seems like a no-brainer at that price. definitely a major step up from my horrific asus tn panel. thanks for the recommendation!
Finally got most of everything together, but does anyone here own or use a Cooler Master Elite 430 Black case (ATX/M-ATX/Mid-Tower)? I'm having a difficult time trying to push out the front panels so I can install the Optical Drive >.<
Finally got most of everything together, but does anyone here own or use a Cooler Master Elite 430 Black case (ATX/M-ATX/Mid-Tower)? I'm having a difficult time trying to push out the front panels so I can install the Optical Drive >.<
I've got some questions concerning the power supply, mainboard, cpu cooler and graphic card.
1) mainboard ASRock p67 extreme4 vs. Asus p8p67 pro. I would pay some extra money if the Asus pro is better. Nevertheless, I am also concerned about warranty. So what's your opinion about that?
2) power supply Which one in particularwould you recommend? I found the Seasonic S12 II 520 Bronze ATX12V V2.3. Or maybe Corsair TX 650 W? Or would you recommend sth. else? In general I love silent systems .
3) cpu cooler
the question is: Cooler Master 212+ or Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B. I am maybe going to overclock the i5 2500k to 3,8ghz. But I also love silence. In general I love silent systems....so keep that in mind if possible. Even if you recommend me sth. completely different.
4) graphic card
I just want to know what you think about evga gtx560 ti fpb? Would you buy this one or tend to buy something else? I thought that the warranty (10 years after reg. is really good to have) But what do you think?
I know that I´ve asked questions in this thread and haven´t responded yet (blame E3), but I´ll do so shortly and thanks again.
I´ll continue to bother you until my brother is happy with the pc and my dad won´t kill me for the price (cheapskate, when he goes to fancy restaurants he spends maybe half the price of a decent pc just for food...)
BUT
Emergeny alert! (important bits=bold)
My mother´s pc has been dying over the last few weeks with random shutdowns, not recognizing keyboards and now he won´t go online. That´s a BIG deal for her. Even the network/server IT guy in the family could help via phone conference. My bet is on a dying mobo, thing´s getting old. I made sure she cleans it regularily and the fans are all working and it doesn´t feel hot inside, so it shouldn´t be simple overheating. Still, any ideas?
She´s always wanted a laptop, anyway, and it´s her birthday soon, so I´m looking around amazon.
This Acer TravelMate 5735Z-452G32Mnss with 2 GHz Intel dual core, 2 gig RAM, g/n wifi, Windows 7 and Word/Excel pre-installed looks good enough for a e-mail, browsing and Excel data input machine and gets good customer reviews AND 50 amazon coupon for buying a Win7 notebook as a student.
Is 340 (-50) a good enough price to buy or would you recommend something else? It really just has to do e-mails, websites (with flash) and Excel, heck, she´s not even watching youtube vids or anything. Size should be at least 14" so she can see something
That's a very good list. If your budget is pretty strict that is about all you are going to get. If you can find some way to get a H61/P67 (Look at the OP) motherboard and an intel i3 you'll have an upgrade path and it will probably be slightly better for gaming. It's really for the upgrade path though.
If you overclock the X4 to 3.6Ghz or so that will help you out.
Only change I'd do is knock the PSU down to the 600W of that OCZ model to save you $10.
Hey guys, I have a quick question and don't know where else I could ask for a quick response.
I'm looking to buy an external hard drive. The only requirements I have is that I want the hd to be powered by usb since I will be moving it around constantly and that the price is under $90. Let me know if there is a go-to hard drive at this price, thanks.
rawrr 4.0 ghz on my first o.c with my new cpu (x6 1100T) 35 degrees and 1.35 vcore under load....(prime is running 3 hours now), im curious were im gonna hit the wall
Hey guys, I have a quick question and don't know where else I could ask for a quick response.
I'm looking to buy an external hard drive. The only requirements I have is that I want the hd to be powered by usb since I will be moving it around constantly and that the price is under $90. Let me know if there is a go-to hard drive at this price, thanks.
Hey guys, I have a quick question and don't know where else I could ask for a quick response.
I'm looking to buy an external hard drive. The only requirements I have is that I want the hd to be powered by usb since I will be moving it around constantly and that the price is under $90. Let me know if there is a go-to hard drive at this price, thanks.
2. Why is the 2TB Samsung slower than the 1TB? I wouldn't mind the smaller amount of space on the 1TB but it doesn't cost much to step up to the 2TB so I'm a little conflicted here.
3. I may overclock eventually but I have no intention of ever doing SLI or CF. Will the Seasonic M12II 620W provide enough power? Is it worth stepping up to the Seasonic X 660W? What would be the difference?
2. Why is the 2TB Samsung slower than the 1TB? I wouldn't mind the smaller amount of space on the 1TB but it doesn't cost much to step up to the 2TB so I'm a little conflicted here.
3. I may overclock eventually but I have no intention of ever doing SLI or CF. Will the Seasonic M12II 620W provide enough power? Is it worth stepping up to the Seasonic X 660W? What would be the difference?
ALWAYS go with the latter option. Unless a significantly faster card doesn't exist, at which point the hassle of a multi gpu setup is your only option for better performance. But a 460 should still be fine at 1080p, I'd wait a while yet.
I know that I´ve asked questions in this thread and haven´t responded yet (blame E3), but I´ll do so shortly and thanks again.
I´ll continue to bother you until my brother is happy with the pc and my dad won´t kill me for the price (cheapskate, when he goes to fancy restaurants he spends maybe half the price of a decent pc just for food...)
BUT
Emergeny alert! (important bits=bold)
My mother´s pc has been dying over the last few weeks with random shutdowns, not recognizing keyboards and now he won´t go online. That´s a BIG deal for her. Even the network/server IT guy in the family could help via phone conference. My bet is on a dying mobo, thing´s getting old. I made sure she cleans it regularily and the fans are all working and it doesn´t feel hot inside, so it shouldn´t be simple overheating. Still, any ideas?
She´s always wanted a laptop, anyway, and it´s her birthday soon, so I´m looking around amazon.
This Acer TravelMate 5735Z-452G32Mnss with 2 GHz Intel dual core, 2 gig RAM, g/n wifi, Windows 7 and Word/Excel pre-installed looks good enough for a e-mail, browsing and Excel data input machine and gets good customer reviews AND 50 amazon coupon for buying a Win7 notebook as a student.
Is 340 (-50) a good enough price to buy or would you recommend something else? It really just has to do e-mails, websites (with flash) and Excel, heck, she´s not even watching youtube vids or anything. Size should be at least 14" so she can see something
No offense but have you thought of maybe getting a job? It's your fathers money let him spend it how he pleases. He might not have the same values you do.
how many Thunderbird cores did you irreparably damage ?
I had a friend who first broke his own Thunderbird core, he could only afford a Duron after that
then he was installing a sink for another friend and his screwdriver got out of the latch while pushing it down, cutting through several layers of the PCB ....
I will go for stock 6950 and unlock it to 6970 shaders and then overclock with Sapphire Trixx. Advantage being a lower 6950 default vcore of 1.10v and fan profile settings with Trixx. Dont flash with 6970 bios because the vcore becomes 1.175v.
Use the extra money to buy Intel 160gb ssd. 120gb has a bigger capacity but slower random seek (for OS) than Intel older gen X25M. 160gb is overall better and also lower cost per gb.
I will go for stock 6950 and unlock it to 6970 shaders and then overclock with Sapphire Trixx. Advantage being a lower 6950 default vcore of 1.10v and fan profile settings with Trixx. Dont flash with 6970 bios because the vcore becomes 1.175v.
Use the extra money to buy Intel 160gb ssd. 120gb has a bigger capacity but slower random seek (for OS) than Intel older gen X25M. 160gb is overall better and also lower cost per gb.
The 6950 sounds like a lot of work. Is it really worth the hassle? I'm looking at benchmarks on Anandtech and the GTX 570 consistently outperforms the 6950 1GB though the margin of outperformance is almost negligible in some cases. Not sure what to think here.
So the 320 Series 160GB is the one to go for then? Actually, for the prices here, the 160GB is about the same cost per GB as the 120GB. But since it's faster, I'll go for that then.
I've got some questions concerning the power supply, mainboard, cpu cooler and graphic card.
1) mainboard ASRock p67 extreme4 vs. Asus p8p67 pro. I would pay some extra money if the Asus pro is better. Nevertheless, I am also concerned about warranty. So what's your opinion about that?
2) power supply Which one in particularwould you recommend? I found the Seasonic S12 II 520 Bronze ATX12V V2.3. Or maybe Corsair TX 650 W? Or would you recommend sth. else? In general I love silent systems .
3) cpu cooler
the question is: Cooler Master 212+ or Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B. I am maybe going to overclock the i5 2500k to 3,8ghz. But I also love silence. In general I love silent systems....so keep that in mind if possible. Even if you recommend me sth. completely different.
4) graphic card
I just want to know what you think about evga gtx560 ti fpb? Would you buy this one or tend to buy something else? I thought that the warranty (10 years after reg. is really good to have) But what do you think?
1) If warranty is a major concern, go with the Asus. They're both solid boards though.
2) Both PSUs are solid (as are the brands). Corsair, Antec, and Seasonic are generally well-regarded amongst PSU manufacturers, so nearly anything 80+ certified from them is a plus. If you're looking for silent, you'll need a low temp system, so consider looking at modular power supplies. You'll be able to use less cable = less clutter = better airflow = lower temps.
3) Both solid choices, but I believe the Scythe runs a bit quieter in general. You could probably run a 2500k to 4.0 Ghz on the stock cooler to be honest, but with either of those aftermarket coolers you'll definitely kick 3.8 Ghz's ass.
4) Might want to consider the MSI Twin Frozr 560 Ti (they also sell an overclocked edition and a "gold" edition). Warranty is 3? years I think, but it runs much cooler than competitors 560 Ti boards (and also fairly quietly, I believe) thanks to their cooler design. They also make Twin Frozrs for the 6950 and 570 to name a few.
I have a question about drivers. Asus has chipset drivers that are quit old, but are the most recent ones on their site for my board. AMD has a driver download section, but it doesn't seem to differentiate between different boards. It's just chipset drivers, USB drivers, AHCI drivers, Southbridge drivers.
Never installed a CPU but I'm to assume the CPU fan comes accompanying the actual chip in the packaging? Complete noob, but do motherboards come built with their own sound or do I need to buy a sound card?
Never installed a CPU but I'm to assume the CPU fan comes accompanying the actual chip in the packaging? Complete noob, but do motherboards come built with their own sound or do I need to buy a sound card?
My current Dell E207WFP is several years old but I love it. It goes to 1680x1050. Do higher res monitors provide a noticeably better visual experience? I can sell my current machine for around £350-£400 so it'll go towards directly funding this project. I can't wait to start building it. Will probably be able to get it around October
I'm looking for a wired mouse along the lines of the Logitech Performance Mouse MX for programming. Having at least 2 thumb buttons is really something I'm looking for. And generally just being big (I tend to like Logitech's stuff for that reason).
I'd go with the G500, but a mouse that's not marketed as a gaming mouse might pass on an expense claim with fewer questions.