"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Chinner said:
my friennd is asking about PSU cable management. i mean i guess it depends on what case you have and how long the wires are on your PSU.

hes thinking:
coolermaster elite 430
Corsair 650W

what is gafs opinion? yay/nay or any better alternatives? ta.
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The power supply is great but there's no cabling holes in the motherboard tray. If he wants clean wiring then the PSU cables, fan cables, GPU power cables and disk cables will all need to be either behind the tray or crammed into empty expansion bays. It's going to be very tough to get them behind the motherboard tray if the thing has no holes.
 
Sethos said:
Can also recommend the 690 II Advanced. Looks classy, same cable management options and I believe it's cheaper.
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690 II Advanced is about 50% pricier than the 912.

edit: though on that European site, it's only 10~L~ more. Interesting. That's a worthwhile jump up, I'd say.
 
cheers guys, looks like he's going to go with the 690 II Advanced. personally I think the R3 is for the sophisticated user, but each to their own.
 
I held off from buying a sound card because of worries with how compatible it'd be with BF3. There are/were some issues using the Asus soundcards and BC2.
 
So, i ran Prime95 for about 2 1/2 hours without any problem. I did a quick 5 run test with Intel & now aiming for 20 runs on maximum.
capture2hb.jpg
 
TheExodu5 said:
690 II Advanced is about 50% pricier than the 912.

edit: though on that European site, it's only 10~L~ more. Interesting. That's a worthwhile jump up, I'd say.
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Was looking at the 912 for a friend as I saw this.
How is the 690II adv better? it seems to have smaller intake fans and a smaller top fan (faster, more noise).

What does it have to make up for that then?
edit: man the shop thing is actually in the op.
S what you get with such a long op, I read through most of it several times over the months and never got that far down.
 
Citizen K said:
so my asus gtx 580 has not got the little plastic protectors over the pci slot, sli connectors and dvi ports (like i have seen in reviews). i had a slight feeling it was previously opened but does this confirm it? what say ye gaf....
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Citizen K said:
Regarding the graphics card, I suspect it will work cos the unit itself looks good. Its just that the sellotape that encloses the bag was clearly re-sealed and like I said the plastic protectors were missing. I'm gonna get it up and running tomorrow, I might call scan and see if they can send me another one but I dont want to have to send this one and wait for a new one to arrive. I'm hoping they send a new one and take the old one at the same time...
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Looks like I was right to be worried about this :(

The card looked good but I suspected it was open. I've installed it now and intitially it was fine. But when I run a game or benchmark ie when the card starts 'working' there is a high pitched whiny noise. Grrrrrrrr..... Doesnt happen in normal windows conditions/browsing etc.
 
SneakyStephan said:
Was looking at the 912 for a friend as I saw this.
How is the 690II adv better? it seems to have smaller intake fans and a smaller top fan (faster, more noise).

What does it have to make up for that then?
edit: man the shop thing is actually in the op.
S what you get with such a long op, I read through most of it several times over the months and never got that far down.
Click to expand...

Air filters, removable HDD trays. The fans aren't smaller...they're the same size (120mm). The 912 only comes with 2x 120mm fans (one front intake, one rear exhaust), while the CM 690 II Advanced comes with 4 fans (2 front intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top exhaust). The 922, on the other hand, comes with a 200mm intake and 140mm rear exhaust, but it's the same price as the CM 690 II advanced. The 922 is easier to work with, but doesn't have air filters, it's wider and deeper, and the interior isn't black. Personal preference, at that point.
 
MisterNoisy said:
P67 is Socket 1155. You need Socket 1156 for an i5-750.
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Fuck it. I am just going to microcenter and buying the i5-2500 and mobo deal. I'll just use my refurb p55a-ud3 and i5 for my NAS.

is the i5-2500 worth buying still, or should i hold off?
 
The_Inquisitor said:
Fuck it. I am just going to microcenter and buying the i5-2500 and mobo deal. I'll just use my refurb p55a-ud3 and i5 for my NAS.

is the i5-2500 worth buying still, or should i hold off?
Click to expand...

The 2500K is probably the best bang for the buck out there right now, much like the i5-750/760 were about a year ago.
 
The_Inquisitor said:
Fuck it. I am just going to microcenter and buying the i5-2500 and mobo deal. I'll just use my refurb p55a-ud3 and i5 for my NAS.

is the i5-2500 worth buying still, or should i hold off?
Click to expand...

Get the 2500k and yeah it's still worth buying.
 
MisterNoisy said:
The 2500K is probably the best bang for the buck out there right now, much like the i5-750/760 were about a year ago.
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K. I hate to fucking be upgrading my cpu after 1 year, but I would rather buy into the new socket now and maybe be able to use my same mobo 3 years down the road.

How often does INTEL cycle their sockets?
 
The_Inquisitor said:
K. I hate to fucking be upgrading my cpu after 1 year, but I would rather buy into the new socket now and maybe be able to use my same mobo 3 years down the road.

How often does INTEL cycle their sockets?
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Very often. Every couple of years seems like.
 
The_Inquisitor said:
K. I hate to fucking be upgrading my cpu after 1 year, but I would rather buy into the new socket now and maybe be able to use my same mobo 3 years down the road.

How often does INTEL cycle their sockets?
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Pretty quickly, actually. Socket 1156 is only about two years old, and 1155/Sandy Bridge came out late last year. On top of that, Socket 2011 is due in the very near future (Q4, I think).
 
MisterNoisy said:
Pretty quickly, actually. Socket 1156 is only about two years old, and 1155/Sandy Bridge came out late last year. On top of that, Socket 2011 is due in the very near future (Q4, I think).
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fucking dammit. Ah well screw it.
 
Who knows, depending on how things shape up for PC games, the current Sandy Bridge stuff might last us a while.

Maybe a few years from now, we'd only have to worry about the PC exclusive stuff that really pushes things; until then, PC games that go multi plat will probably still be held back by current gen consoles.
 
Guys got a random bluescreen, first one since I stabilized my OC several months ago :

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.48
Locale ID: 1033

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: 1a
BCP1: 0000000000041790
BCP2: FFFFFA8003733F50
BCP3: 000000000000FFFF
BCP4: 0000000000000000
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 256_1

Any clue? Hardware? Software?


edit : also I got another question, I think my temps have gotten out of control because I don't remember them being like this, I played starcraft 2 for a long while and the temps peaked at 55 C after a while, is that right? ( noctua dh 14, and OC with 1.28 v )
 
Looks like I don't need a 2500k after all. Stream is 720p 60fps. :)

Errrr....I meant 2600k. The 2500k itself is fine for streaming high quality.
 
So yeah I uninstalled the Raid. Started my PC, things worked fine.

I reinstalled the Raid, start my PC, ...thing work....fine.

I guess I just had to reinstall it?
 
2 trips to Fry's and one trip to Microcenter later, I am the owner of an i5-2500 and a P8P67 mobo.

Going to use my refurb p55a-ud3 and i5-750 for my media pc later this year. Thanks guys
 
Ok this is weird, maybe someone can help.

I mentioned that my graphics card is making a whiny noise before, I thought it was the fan. However I have just tested with GPU-z and when I fire up minecraft the fan speed stays the same. When the 'gpu load' in gpu-z goes up the whiny noise starts. Is this something other than the fan?
 
Question about AA use in game using Nvidia Inspector. As I understand it SGSSAA does something technically to the entire screen that makes everything look wonderful.
Here is what I have for a global profile:

2l95tn5.png



For it to work properly do I just leave SGSSAA as enabled and no AA-Setting, or leave it how it is for correct implementation?
 
Best motherboard to recommend around the $130 - $150 price range? Perhaps a little higher? Hopefully it will be cheaper at Micro Center, I have somebody who is going to pick up some stuff for me there, and my CPU is significantly cheaper there. My total build dropped like $25, so that's a bit more I can play with.

P.S. - CPU is the i5 2500k.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
So yeah I uninstalled the Raid. Started my PC, things worked fine.

I reinstalled the Raid, start my PC, ...thing work....fine.

I guess I just had to reinstall it?
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Don't think you are raiding. Are you just changing from ACHI to Raid in the Bios? Your drives are still running independently. Thus, no data is lost and you can still change back. To actually Raid 0, you also have to go into the Raid setup and set it to combine your HDDs into 1 drive. Doing so you will loose all data and would require to format / fresh install of Windows.
 
Karmum said:
Best motherboard to recommend around the $130 - $150 price range? Perhaps a little higher? Hopefully it will be cheaper at Micro Center, I have somebody who is going to pick up some stuff for me there, and my CPU is significantly cheaper there. My total build dropped like $25, so that's a bit more I can play with.

P.S. - CPU is the i5 2500k.
Click to expand...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229

I wouldn't want any other motherboard in that range. So good. So easy to overclock and do stuff with.
 
Kadey said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229

I wouldn't want any other motherboard in that range. So good. So easy to overclock and do stuff with.
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Thanks for the suggestion. A bit bummed out that Micro Center doesn't have it at all, though. Buying all of my parts between Tuesday and Wednesday, and just need to trim my choices for a motherboard. I have this in mind at the moment, but if I can get something better around the price point that also may be at that store, then, well, I'll go for it.
 
knitoe said:
Don't think you are raiding. Are you just changing from ACHI to Raid in the Bios? Your drives are still running independently. Thus, no data is lost and you can still change back. To actually Raid 0, you also have to go into the Raid setup and set it to combine your HDDs into 1 drive. Doing so you will loose all data and would require to format / fresh install of Windows.
Click to expand...

Yeah thats what I did.

But I didn't have to reinstall Windows since I combined two separate HDDs.

To put it simpler, I have a SSD as my main disk drive. It has Windows and all my apps on it.

I brought two of the same HDDs and put them on RAID0.

So my SSD remains untouched, while the two HDDs are united under RAID0.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
Yeah thats what I did.

But I didn't have to reinstall Windows since I combined two separate HDDs.

To put it simpler, I have a SSD as my main disk drive. It has Windows and all my apps on it.

I brought two of the same HDDs and put them on RAID0.

So my SSD remains untouched, while the two HDDs are united under RAID0.
Click to expand...
That explains everything. After you posted you disk management, it only showed 2 storage drives. I also asked how many drives you had and you said 2. You actually have 3 drives, 1 SSD and 2 HDD. With Raid 0 drives, since data is evenly split between them, splitting them up will cause a lost in data.
 
Fuck nevermind, it won't boot into my windows partition.

Please tell me I don't have to re-install windows. I'm running start-up repair atm.

I saw the "starting windows" screen, got a split second BSOD, then my computer went into reboot loop.
 
Making my purchases both Tuesday and Wednesday, and this is what I'm at right now.

CPU: i5 2500k ($189.99)
DVD: LG SuperMulti Drive ($19.96)
GPU: GTX 460 (169.99) - Actually cheaper overall (after factoring in shipping and tax) at Micro Center over Newegg.
PSU: XIGMATEK NRP-PC702 700W ($74.95)
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaw Series 8GB ($49.99)
Motherboard: Haven't locked one in yet.
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB ($59.96)

Total: (with a motherboard I have factored in at the moment): $728.91. Also includes shipping and tax between MC, Newegg and Amazon.

With my computer case it's still under $800, which is what I want. Just need to decide on that motherboard.
 
The_Inquisitor said:
Okay switched to IDE mode and it booted. How come my 5400 RPM drive won't boot w/ AHCI mode? Is it because my hdd isn't capable?
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You running XP? XP doesn't support AHCI, IIRC. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure you need to have installed Windows in AHCI mode for it to work. You can't switch from IDE to AHCI after it's already been installed.
 
TheExodu5 said:
You running XP? XP doesn't support AHCI, IIRC. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure you need to have installed Windows in AHCI mode for it to work. You can't switch from IDE to AHCI after it's already been installed.
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No running 7.


SON OF A FUCKING BITCH. I INSTALLED THE LATEST NVIDIA DRIVERS, AND I AM GETTING NO FUCKING VIDEO AGAIN. WHAT THE FUCKING FUCK.

Please, someone help me. What do I do now?
 
The_Inquisitor said:
Okay switched to IDE mode and it booted. How come my 5400 RPM drive won't boot w/ AHCI mode? Is it because my hdd isn't capable?
Click to expand...

I ran into this problem. I had to insert the AHCI drivers during the windows install to get it to boot.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Air filters, removable HDD trays. The fans aren't smaller...they're the same size (120mm). The 912 only comes with 2x 120mm fans (one front intake, one rear exhaust), while the CM 690 II Advanced comes with 4 fans (2 front intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top exhaust). The 922, on the other hand, comes with a 200mm intake and 140mm rear exhaust, but it's the same price as the CM 690 II advanced. The 922 is easier to work with, but doesn't have air filters, it's wider and deeper, and the interior isn't black. Personal preference, at that point.
Click to expand...

Thanks, the shop I was looking at listed the 912 as having 200mm fans too.
 
The_Inquisitor said:
No running 7.


SON OF A FUCKING BITCH. I INSTALLED THE LATEST NVIDIA DRIVERS, AND I AM GETTING NO FUCKING VIDEO AGAIN. WHAT THE FUCKING FUCK.

Please, someone help me. What do I do now?
Click to expand...

Dont install the latest drivers? I heard they were shit anyways
 
The_Inquisitor said:
You want me to just use the default windows drivers and not even be able to use the correct resolution?
Click to expand...

The 280.26 drivers (latest from Nvidia) have a lot of issues. I was using them yesterday. I was told to roll back to the 275.33 drivers which I have done. No issues after doing that.
 
Smokey said:
The 280.26 drivers (latest from Nvidia) have a lot of issues. I was using them yesterday. I was told to roll back to the 275.33 drivers which I have done. No issues after doing that.
Click to expand...

But how can I roll back if I can't even get video? I guess I can try putting my 460 back in? Or would re-seating trigger "safe" mode?

Edit: Yeah re-seating triggered defualt drivers, going to install 275.33 and see what happens.

Edit2: Lol what the fuck, it appears the 280.26 successfully installed. I don't understand.
 
So, I'm looking at pulling the trigger on the ~$1000 build soon enough. Does anyone have anything they'd change about that build now or is it good as is?
 
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