Rand0m TAG
Member
This thread is tempting me to make another pc (i made my first one a few months ago). If only I had the cash lol.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
OCZ's reputation took a hit when they pioneered the business model of affordable SSDs. Unfortunately they were not reliable with the early SandForce drives and firmware issues, and many early buyers suffered through the growing pains as SSD owners.
The Agility 3 is a great drive and a huge affordable upgrade from traditional drives. If you're willing to take a risk with OCZ's quality control and have a relatively new setup, then go for it.
I think SandForce SSDs on new setups no longer are an issue since the SATA AHCI controllers are tested with them, and those complaining are using SandForce drives on older setups. There seems to be a correlation with SandForce SSDs and old SATA mobos regarding bricks.
This is really really interesting. I haven't had a single issue with any of my SSDs, two Vertex 2s, one Samsung 830, one Corsair F90, or any of the 830s in my office. All my mobos are socket 1155.
The only partial issue I had was when I was running my first Vertex 2 on my Crosshair IV (socket AM3), it had horribly slow speeds no matter what I did. Recently transferred it to my secondary gaming rig (Gene-Z), and it's totally fine now.
From the complaints I've read, I noticed people with AMD setups and old Intel (i.e. LGA 775 sockets) having detection and performance issues with SandForce drives. For those people, I recommend sticking with the Intel, Crucial M4, or Samsung 830 drives.
I'm still on a LGA 775 socket.
What really confirmed my suspicions are the OCZ threads and some other tech threads around the world that talk about flashing RAID ROMs to newer modules to solve those problems.
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/f...S-files-with-updated-Intel-ICH9-10R-RAID-ROMs
http://www.win-lite.de/wbb/board208...-ahci-und-raid-rom-module-bereits-extrahiert/
Manp
Member
they sure had their fair share of issues with those old Sandy Bridge setups... oh wait!
You had a SF drive issue with a SB setup?
Guys. I realized this week that I've fallen out of love with gaming.
What's the best way to sell my gaming rig? I could do it piece-by-piece on eBay, but I'd rather lump is all together if possible. Monitor, rig, the whole lot. At this point, I only need a laptop that I can do work on. Might invest in an iMac down the road.
Odd question, I know. But I can trust everyone here to give sound advice.
What's the best way to sell my gaming rig? I could do it piece-by-piece on eBay, but I'd rather lump is all together if possible. Monitor, rig, the whole lot. At this point, I only need a laptop that I can do work on. Might invest in an iMac down the road.
Odd question, I know. But I can trust everyone here to give sound advice.
I know that feeling. It's the games though. Just need to find that one special lady.
It all really depends on the components. If you have some really nice high-end stuff, piece-by-piece might be the way to go, but be more time intensive. You could probably drop the whole thing on craigslist fairly easy.
Manp
Member
you never checked official forums on Corsair, OCZ, Kingstone (or any other manufacturer using SF) websites, have you?
the SF controller had random issues with pretty much every platform using SATA 6Gb/s controllers and those happens to be mostly new platforms.
evil solrac v3.0
Member
wait for Diablo 3.
I read those complaints are mobo issues and that most of the time the problem is fixed through a mobo RMA.you never checked official forums on Corsair, OCZ, Kingstone (or any other manufacturer using SF) websites, have you?
the SF controller had random issues with pretty much every platform using SATA 6Gb/s controllers and those happens to be mostly new platforms.
Something like this: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=103924
YMMV because if you're going to say only SandForce drives are bad, then you can throw Crucial M4 drives in that list as well as some users are complaining the latest firmware doesn't fix some cold boot and performance problems. Those bad comments are eerily similar to the SF ones when there are other factors that can be considered like user error (e.g. not aligning drive, straight clone from HD).
Again, have you personally experienced a bad SF on your SB setup?
I don't own anything right now.
I'm building a pc to play d3 and sc2 so I'm trying to go the cheapest and easiest way possible. I literally have no interest in playing any other games and no interest in updating the pc afterwards.
Gouty
Bloodborne is shit
Any 2500k/2600k owners have experience transcoding MKV's to 1080p m4v's?
I've seen some benches around the net but they don't appear to be overclocking, so I was wondering what kind of impact that would have.
I'm averaging 4fps on my current (old) laptop. I'd be laughing if I weren't crying.
I've seen some benches around the net but they don't appear to be overclocking, so I was wondering what kind of impact that would have.
I'm averaging 4fps on my current (old) laptop. I'd be laughing if I weren't crying.
2600 is worth it if you do a lot of encoding. There's a few programs out there that let you use your GPU as well, which has a pretty significant impact.
Basically, do a search on 2600K reviews, and checkout the benchmarks for encoding. Hopefully there is something there you can use. I'd offer more, but the only encoding I do is from raw dxtory 1080p to 720p .avi's.
Basically, do a search on 2600K reviews, and checkout the benchmarks for encoding. Hopefully there is something there you can use. I'd offer more, but the only encoding I do is from raw dxtory 1080p to 720p .avi's.
Any overclock on top of stock would be a near linear increase in performance from base clock speed.
Gouty
Bloodborne is shit
InsaneLuchador
Member
Don't be so hasty. Everyone goes through these kicks and you could end up selling something you'll regret in the heat of passion.
Installed a wireless N card on my aging seven year old laptop.
Had to extend some wires since the antenna leads on this TP-Link card are far apart, so I needed to solder a longer cable to extend one of the antenna cables.
Works great! Still holding out on improvements in mobile power computing consumption before I purchase my next laptop.
Had to extend some wires since the antenna leads on this TP-Link card are far apart, so I needed to solder a longer cable to extend one of the antenna cables.
Works great! Still holding out on improvements in mobile power computing consumption before I purchase my next laptop.
I've thought this through a lot. I honesty don't think I'll use this giant rig for hardcore PC gaming. Hell, I barely use my PS3 these days. Gaming and I just don't have a destiny together, I think.
mclaren777
Member
Which should my friend buy?
Phenom II X4 965 for $125
Phenom II X4 975 for $145
They seem to be identical apart from 0.2 GHz of speed which probably doesn't make any meaningful difference.
Edit: oddly, the 965 has a higher TDP (140W) compared to the 975 (125W).
Phenom II X4 965 for $125
Phenom II X4 975 for $145
They seem to be identical apart from 0.2 GHz of speed which probably doesn't make any meaningful difference.
Edit: oddly, the 965 has a higher TDP (140W) compared to the 975 (125W).
965, but what is the rest of the system and why are they buying?
2600K
Yes
On sale 560Ti 448 or 6950/7850
mclaren777
Member
I wouldn't do it. Mobo is 3+1 phase, and while it's claimed to support up to 125W, it's very bare bones, including no mosfet cooling. Overclocking could be very problematic, and running the new CPU at stock doesn't seem to be worth it, even if the current CPU is a low end dual-/triple-core.
He can get a low cost CPU+mobo upgrade. Perhaps grab something inexpensive from someone dumping their SB for Ivy bridge.
mclaren777
Member
·feist·;36220041 said:
He is set on one of these two CPUs and that MB, so would the 975 be a better option given that it has a 125 TDP?
Also, he had no intention of overclocking.
Seems like an odd system to put together.
I think any sold 965's today are the newer 125W TDP ones.
From parts it looks like cost is a concern, so 965.
could one of you knowledgeable souls give your input on this ....
a power supply that can't adequately supply enough juice to a video card can hamper performance?
...now i've heard this mentioned from time to time by various people around the net as being true ...and i've also heard other people say that its totally false and that the pc will power down instead.
nvidia themselves even say that performance can be affected from a psu not being able to provide proper power ...
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2003
so i just wanna know what you guys think? i tend to believe what Nvidia say.
a power supply that can't adequately supply enough juice to a video card can hamper performance?
...now i've heard this mentioned from time to time by various people around the net as being true ...and i've also heard other people say that its totally false and that the pc will power down instead.
nvidia themselves even say that performance can be affected from a psu not being able to provide proper power ...
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2003
so i just wanna know what you guys think? i tend to believe what Nvidia say.
If you experience a combination of these symptoms, especially #1:
1. Monitor cannot detect graphics card. Windows loads anyway despite no screen input. Requires a full system power off and power on to be detected.
2. Application crashes while playing games.
3. BSOD while playing games.
the power supply should be changed.
That is my experience as I just did this recently.
If you have a multimeter, you can measure your 12V rail through a molex connector while your system is under stress to determine voltage fluctuations as that's how I confirmed mine. The system sensors that you can read from programs are somewhat inaccurate.
If your system doesn't show these symptoms, then you don't have to worry.
-----------
To answer your question, no, I don't think any of the stuff that people said is true (i.e. the PC will power down, hamper performance).
Nvidia's explanation basically aligns what I said. Your system will become unstable with an inadequate power supply.
-----------
Side note: This is why people in this thread stress about power supplies as that's perhaps the most important component in your computer, so you see people posting about SeaSonic power supply sales or Antec Neo Eco PSUs or Hazaro's love for the Corsair CX430.
Can't co-sign it, but sure. Both are 125W.
Out of curiosity, is anyone aware how much more quiet the Fractal R3 is compared to like...the Antec Three Hundred? I know the former is actually a silent case, but I'm just curious, cause I'm considering buying it in the near future and moving my parts from the Three Hundred into it. Clearly should have forked out the extra money way back in August for my new computer, the Three Hundred is loud as hell, even from like 20 feet away when I'm trying to sleep.
That and, well, a white case sounds really awesome.
That and, well, a white case sounds really awesome.
Crap just been reading up on the A4, A6, A8 series APU series from AMD.
This looks like exactly what I need, a HTPC in small form for under 400 bucks and able to play D3 at decent settings.
but it completely locks me in and would be near upgradable.
Man decisions.
A8 3850 + AsRock Mobo is under 200 bucks.
versus
I5 2500K + MOBO deal at MicroCenter for 250
6870 GPU for 150
totaling to 400
The I5 Build is twice as much but is so much better A8 build. But then do I even need a computer better than the A8 build.
Speaking of which anyone used the A8 3850 before? How does it compare to the low end build at the opening?
This looks like exactly what I need, a HTPC in small form for under 400 bucks and able to play D3 at decent settings.
but it completely locks me in and would be near upgradable.
Man decisions.
A8 3850 + AsRock Mobo is under 200 bucks.
versus
I5 2500K + MOBO deal at MicroCenter for 250
6870 GPU for 150
totaling to 400
The I5 Build is twice as much but is so much better A8 build. But then do I even need a computer better than the A8 build.
Speaking of which anyone used the A8 3850 before? How does it compare to the low end build at the opening?
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Are other ones usually that cheap though? My laptop hard drive just died and I was going to get a solid state one but for 120GB seems easily $160+. Is there a certain one to look at? or is there sales much cheaper like that agility just was yesterday?
I have a question you guys might have an answer for, some friends of mine are meeting at one of their houses. They plan on playing games outside on their laptops, the house in question is right on the intercoastal of the Gulf of Mexico. I was offered an invite, but I only have my desktop.
It would be possible to bring it along and use it there, however, I'm worried about salt water damage on the components from the air, should I be? The whole computer outside thing doesn't sit well, but I really want to join them instead of being stuck on skype :\
It would be possible to bring it along and use it there, however, I'm worried about salt water damage on the components from the air, should I be? The whole computer outside thing doesn't sit well, but I really want to join them instead of being stuck on skype :\
I'd be more worried about wind blowing sand into things. I don't really see why air would be an issue. I live close enough to the gulf that I can smell the sea air (love sea air), and have the windows open about 6 months of the year. It's never caused me any issues.
The Samsung 830 is $140 today on Newegg if you're not comfortable taking the risk with OCZ. There are other manufacturers like Mushkin and Kingston who also use SandForce drives and are priced comparably to OCZ's. Again though, I find people having issues with the SandForce drives tend to be in the consumer base who are frugal and use older electronics. Those factors go with my theory.
I understand bad reviews affect a product's reputation. I was having trouble deciding if a Kindle has a manufacturing issue earlier today.
Anyway, again, the Samsung 830 is on sale for today.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147163
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Hmm, how old have problems? Like I have a 2009 mbp that has a core 2 duo and stuff like that. And the other thing I liked was I don't get tax with Amazon but do with newegg..
Core 2 duo would be in the problematic area, so I would avoid SandForce drives.
That's what's confusing. I spent some time months ago trying to sort out what exactly was wrong and came across those threads of people reflashing their AHCI modules and (if applicable) Intel RAID ROMs in their BIOSs to improve cold boot drive detection and stability on their PCs. I linked some threads in the past pages.
I see that you live in a state that Newegg taxes.
Well, if you need it now, it's worth the cost unless you really do value your storage space over speed.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
I realize there probably isn't but is there any indications of a noticeable drop in ssd prices soon? I have a small hard drive the laptop came with in the mean time if in a month a big drop is expected.
It was only a rumor, so a "big drop" may not even happen. Supposed to be by the end of next month, but time will tell.
I'm still playing the waiting game, too. If ultrabooks are ever to be priced competitively, SSD costs have to go down.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
But the rumor was for around may right? Maybe I'll try to hold tight...
GraveHorizon
poop meter feature creep
I recently came to the conclusion that a new desktop would be better than a new laptop, so I've been looking around at some desktops for under $800. I want to use it for some light gaming, light video editing, and using the internet and watching videos occasionally. Resolution isn't too important to me, but I'd like at least 720p, and 1080p would be nice. The only games I have right now are Amnesia (which I hear can run on lower systems) and Portal (from when it was free), though I do want to get the Valve Complete Pack at some point. Trying to buy new so I won't be reusing my old desktop's parts, and I'm not interested in overclocking anything. Most importantly I'd like to be able to play games at a good FPS, like 30, and with some decent effects on, like lighting and shadows. I want to play F.E.A.R. with its intended atmosphere without it being a slideshow. But I don't need to play the latest Crysis on super high or anything.
While researching, I heard that it's a good idea to get a desktop with a better processor than graphics card, and just switch in a nicer graphics card. Someone suggested the following desktop that comes with a monitor and speakers, and a graphics card to replace the existing one. I found another version of the same card, and I can't tell which one would be better to switch in.
DELL Inspiron i570-6111BK 23" Desktop PC
Athlon II X4 645(3.1GHz)
6GB DDR3
500GB HDD Capacity
ATI Radeon HD 4200
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
(Comes w/ 23 monitor & speakers)
$629.99
EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB
192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
$134.99
-OR-
ASUS ENGTX550 TI DC TOP/DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) 1GB
192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
$139.99
Total cost $765-$770.
Does that sound like a good deal? Would I be getting the most power for my money, or would it be better to go with one of the setups from the charts in the OP? I'm not great with computer hardware beyond plugging stuff in, so I don't know if I could piece everything together myself from scratch. Any suggestions, Tech-GAF?
While researching, I heard that it's a good idea to get a desktop with a better processor than graphics card, and just switch in a nicer graphics card. Someone suggested the following desktop that comes with a monitor and speakers, and a graphics card to replace the existing one. I found another version of the same card, and I can't tell which one would be better to switch in.
DELL Inspiron i570-6111BK 23" Desktop PC
Athlon II X4 645(3.1GHz)
6GB DDR3
500GB HDD Capacity
ATI Radeon HD 4200
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
(Comes w/ 23 monitor & speakers)
$629.99
EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB
192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
$134.99
-OR-
ASUS ENGTX550 TI DC TOP/DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) 1GB
192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
$139.99
Total cost $765-$770.
Does that sound like a good deal? Would I be getting the most power for my money, or would it be better to go with one of the setups from the charts in the OP? I'm not great with computer hardware beyond plugging stuff in, so I don't know if I could piece everything together myself from scratch. Any suggestions, Tech-GAF?
Can you guys tell me if this build is good for gaming (SC2, D3..) and whether or not I can save some money anywhere? I'd like to have it under $1000 but I'm trying to get components that are supplied by a local shop B-com . I could always leave out a component or two if there is a better deal on something from tigerdirect or elsewhere.
Processor: Intel Core i5 650 3.2Ghz ($120)
CPU Cooling: Coolermaster Hyper 212+ ($37)
Motherboard: Intel BOXDP55WG P55 ATX ($150)
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST ($20)
GPU: ASUS ENGTX560 DCII OC/2DI/1GD5 Geforce GTX560 ($199)
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar ($28)
Memory: Kingston DDR3 KHX1600C9D3K4/16GX ($108)
Power Supply: Coolermaster Extreme Power Plus 500W v2.3 ($44)
Harddrive: Western Digital 500GB WD5000AAKX Caviar Blue 7200RPM ($86)
Case: Coolermaster HAF912 Black ($60)
Software: MS Windows 7 64bit ($107)
Subtotal = $958
Thanks
Processor: Intel Core i5 650 3.2Ghz ($120)
CPU Cooling: Coolermaster Hyper 212+ ($37)
Motherboard: Intel BOXDP55WG P55 ATX ($150)
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST ($20)
GPU: ASUS ENGTX560 DCII OC/2DI/1GD5 Geforce GTX560 ($199)
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar ($28)
Memory: Kingston DDR3 KHX1600C9D3K4/16GX ($108)
Power Supply: Coolermaster Extreme Power Plus 500W v2.3 ($44)
Harddrive: Western Digital 500GB WD5000AAKX Caviar Blue 7200RPM ($86)
Case: Coolermaster HAF912 Black ($60)
Software: MS Windows 7 64bit ($107)
Subtotal = $958
Thanks
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Build something yourself. It's literally just plugging stuff in and routing wires. Hardest thing is applying thermal paste and putting the CPU in. It'll take you a couple of hours but if you go slow, read guides on the net, and enjoy yourself, it's really not that bad. You'll get something far better than that if you do it yourself.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
They were supposed to be $500 weren't they?
And amazon price matched on the samsung SSD if anyone is interested:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077CR60Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20
May have to click on new, amazon wasn't the one listed when I clicked on product page but it's still $139.99
I was looking up issues with SSDs and MBPs and apparently there were issues fixed with a EFI firmware update.
What EFI firmware does your Mac have right now? Apparently version 2.2 bundled with Lion and internet recovery made SSDs stable.
http://www.storagereview.com/macbook_pro_efi_firmware_update_22_solves_sata_iii_problems
edit: It seems the targeted userbase was for 2011 models running in SATA III, but maybe it has a retro effect.
CrazyIvan1978
Member
So, two weeks ago, I killed my PC, overclocking of course. I thought that I could salvage the CPU and RAM, so I got an EVGA X58 SLI3 mobo to replace the burnt out ASRock X58 extreme (thing lasted since Nov 2009).
The X58 SLI3 would not boot, no video display, just the stupid FF code on the board. I tried everything (except for the part where you put it on a wooden surface to eliminate shorts, which is stupid, if there were shorts you would know).
So, I got me some goodies: i5 2500K, CoolerMaster 212 EVO, ASRock Z68 Gen 3, 8gb DDR3 1600 G.Skill Sniper, Blu-Ray RW drive (my old CD-RW and DVD-RW were PATA drives, and the new mobo had no PATA), Corsair TX750 PSU (I wanted to eliminate the possibility of my old PSU being faulty after my PC's massive failure), Crucial M4 64Gb SSD (YEAH! can't wait to experince this!) and a Gigabyte HD 7870 OC. I put all of this wonderfull goodness into a Silverstone Raven RV02-E case (this thing is BIG).
I always get a bit stressed when I am about to push that power button for the first time on a new build! But it booted up like a champ!
Some thoughts: I should have looked for a modular PSU, the Silverstone doesn't have much room for cable management, the ASRock doesn't have enough 3-pin connectors for case fans, the 212 EVO is unorthodox (took me longer to figure out how to get the thing attached, then to actually attach it), the HD 7870 might not like the 90 degree motherboard rotation (the cooling solution is not designed to push heat out of the back of the card, which when rotated becomes the top)
Would it be worth it to copy the current Win7 partition from the HDD to the SSD? Or should I just go from scratch and enjoy a fresh Windows install on the SSD?
The X58 SLI3 would not boot, no video display, just the stupid FF code on the board. I tried everything (except for the part where you put it on a wooden surface to eliminate shorts, which is stupid, if there were shorts you would know).
So, I got me some goodies: i5 2500K, CoolerMaster 212 EVO, ASRock Z68 Gen 3, 8gb DDR3 1600 G.Skill Sniper, Blu-Ray RW drive (my old CD-RW and DVD-RW were PATA drives, and the new mobo had no PATA), Corsair TX750 PSU (I wanted to eliminate the possibility of my old PSU being faulty after my PC's massive failure), Crucial M4 64Gb SSD (YEAH! can't wait to experince this!) and a Gigabyte HD 7870 OC. I put all of this wonderfull goodness into a Silverstone Raven RV02-E case (this thing is BIG).
I always get a bit stressed when I am about to push that power button for the first time on a new build! But it booted up like a champ!
Some thoughts: I should have looked for a modular PSU, the Silverstone doesn't have much room for cable management, the ASRock doesn't have enough 3-pin connectors for case fans, the 212 EVO is unorthodox (took me longer to figure out how to get the thing attached, then to actually attach it), the HD 7870 might not like the 90 degree motherboard rotation (the cooling solution is not designed to push heat out of the back of the card, which when rotated becomes the top)
Would it be worth it to copy the current Win7 partition from the HDD to the SSD? Or should I just go from scratch and enjoy a fresh Windows install on the SSD?
The Lamonster
Member
Anybody?
- Status