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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Some of the good deals today:

600T SE $159.99/$139.99 w/ MIR - Free Shipping. Promo code - EMCNGHG83

690 II Advanced - $69.99/$54.99 w/ MIR - Free Shipping. Promo code - EMCNGHG78

Sapphire 6850 - $134.99/119.99 w/ MIR. Promo code - EMCNGHG75

Do you mean LX? It is really limited. You can set your multiplier and it will auto increase voltage IIRC. You can also use AI Suite to manually set voltage once in windows, its just not something that sticks in BIOS. Been working with one of my teammates who has the same board. Got him to a stable 4.4Ghz, which isn't bad.

*edit*
Also, yeah, you do not need PCI-E 3.0. It's all backwards and forwards compatible, and card like the 590/6990 don't even use up half of PCI-E 2.0 bandwidth.

Gotta disagree with you. I have the Z68 V LX and it is shit simple to get 4.5 GHz on the board. Ive gotten to 4.8 Ghz stable on it. It is a great board for the money.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
The QA may be true, but I don't know about that. Reading all the horrible user reviews on the Asus is what drove me to the Asrock E3G3.

I have that ASRock board. Only problem I've had with mine is that I can't access the boot menu, I have to manually change the default boot device in the bios. Not sure if that's fixable on my end, I honestly haven't made an effort. If I do try to go to it, it shows up for like a quarter of a second and then starts booting from the default device.

Other than that, it works fine. OC'd my 2500k to 4.5GHz without a problem.
 

SYNTAX182

Member
I wouldn't return it if you have to pay for shipping + open box fees.

Otherwise, the 460 is somewhat better than the gtx 550 ti although the 550 ti is less power hungry.

Gotcha thanks. I'll keep the 550 ti then if it's not too much of a difference. I'm only playing games like Dota 2, Ys, Alice Madness Returns, and mostly got a new card for Diablo 3. I think 550 ti should be able to run those max no problems.
 

longdi

Banned
guys amazon lighting deals have some good pc parts

2x4gb hyperx ddr 1600 for $40
the famous m4 128gb ssd for $144.

buy buy buy!
 

mkenyon

Banned
Gotta disagree with you. I have the Z68 V LX and it is shit simple to get 4.5 GHz on the board. Ive gotten to 4.8 Ghz stable on it. It is a great board for the money.
So you are disagreeing with me in that it is limited? Not sure I follow. I said it was limited, then offered the two ways in which you can achieve stable overclocks. None of that is false.

The board *is* really limited, which is an objective determination of its capabilities compared to a board with much fewer limitations, such as the Gene-Z or Extreme-Z.
 
Anyone have any thoughts on this case? I've been eyeing it for my upcoming Ivy Bridge rig, but I'm debating waiting for the USB3.0 version.
Buy it. Trust me. You can always pick up the USB 3.0 top panel from CM's site:

http://www.cmstore-usa.com/cm-690-ii-advance-usb-3-0-i-o-top-panel-oem-package/ (or, if you aren't in the US, try their webstore for your region)

It's $17. That's only if you really need/want it, or think you'll actually make use of front panel USB 3.0.

new800__66535_zoom.jpg

Keep in mind it comes with a GPU support bracket, which the USB 3.0 version does not include. People downplay that as a good feature to have, and then you see just how many on GAF have sagging GPUs due to using heavy aftermarket coolers, or factory customs like Asus's triple-slot DirectCU II.
 

Yoritomo

Member
Anyone have any thoughts on this case? I've been eyeing it for my upcoming Ivy Bridge rig, but I'm debating waiting for the USB3.0 version.

My gaming build uses a 690 II Advanced. It dissipates heat nicely, but I've added some 140mm fans. 2500k with Hyper 212+ running at 4.7 ghz and dual reference 580s. It might have trouble with longer cards. I'm pretty sure anything over 11.9 inches just plain won't fit unless you remove the lower hard drive bays. But a reference 580 fits even with a 140mm fan mounted on the back of the hard drive bays, but just barely.

There's not a ton of space behind the back panel for cable routing compared to some other cases but it's enough to do a clean wiring job.

Mine has the front panel e-sata output instead of the USB3.0 ports.

It's not that big of a deal for me, but this is only a gaming rig. The PC that syncs all my devices and handles all of my storage is separate.
 
So you are disagreeing with me in that it is limited? Not sure I follow. I said it was limited, then offered the two ways in which you can achieve stable overclocks. None of that is false.

The board *is* really limited, which is an objective determination of its capabilities compared to a board with much fewer limitations, such as the Gene-Z or Extreme-Z.

It's limited in that it hits 4.7-4.8 Ghz rather than 5+ Ghz, doesn't have Bluetooth, or PCI-E 3.0, or extras. While it's not as fully featured as those boards, it costs far, far less. I got mine for $40 at Microcenter.

I think that's a fair trade-off for the price! :)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Did some more research on parts, and found a few graphics cards that look good. I settled on a SAPPHIRE 100315L Radeon HD 6850, but I possibly need to make sure I choose a decent power supply with it. I just can't tell if the CPU and GPU are right for each other. Here's what I have on pcpartpicker right now:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($149.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: Intel DP67BAB3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($115.98 @ eCost)
Memory: Mushkin Silverline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($40.62 @ NCIX US)
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($77.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 1GB Video Card ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Merc Alpha ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($55.24 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH12LS39 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VS228H-P 21.5" Monitor ($126.00 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $950.78

A bit over my initial budget of sub-$800, but I'm considering going all in on this. If I make it good enough, it should be easier to upgrade in the future, right?
I need a copy of Windows, I want to be able to mess with Blu-ray if I want to, and I want a 1080p monitor.
But what I'm not sure about is if the CPU is on level with the graphics card. Will there be bottlenecking on either end? Should I downgrade to the i3-2120, or upgrade to a Radeon HD 6870? Anything else recommended I switch out for better performance or price? Would a ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard be better for upgrade ability?
I would get any of the listed ~$110 Z68 boards over the ASUS.
It's funny you post this, pretty sure I asked about GTX 460 prices not too long ago and you answered it for me. This is the best it will probably be for awhile, right? So it's basically buy it now at this price cause it probably won't get any better?

Edit 2 - Fuck it. Bought it, guess most of my paycheck today is going toward that. That new case is gonna have to wait. :(
Well, random clearances on a single model aside, it shouldn't be getting cheaper because nothing is replacing it for a good while.
Cases don't make your computer faster, so that's fine.
The QA may be true, but I don't know about that. Reading all the horrible user reviews on the Asus is what drove me to the Asrock E3G3.

Now I realize any product can have defects, but seeing Asus Customer Reps go online and defend their position was astonishing. One guy was told the board had to have left the factory in perfect condition and was therefore damaged in transport (and not responsible by Asus). He was rightly pissed in his review. And incredibly, a Asus Customer Rep responded to the review with the same belligerent non-sense. How that factories run blah-blah, and there's no way it could have left the factory damaged and he needs to contact the shipper to address issues.

Why does this offend me so? Because who was more likely to damage it? Asus' shipping company that transported it from factory to ship? The slow boat ride from China to the US? The company who transported it from ship to retailer? Or UPS. To not stand behind that and say file a claim with UPS for hidden mechanical damage or your SOL is unreal to me. And like I said, the belligerence with which it was argued was astonishing.

A couple of these reviews, plus the ungodly awful QA with their new 27 inch 120hz monitor led me to believe Asus QA sucks and I'd prefer to deal with anyone else if at all possible. IMO Asus has turned into all hype. They're now a consumer brand with massive shortcuts living off their old reputation.
Mhm. All I go off of is what I see and think I can piece together. ASUS certainly has some iffy boards in their lineup. I can't speak for QA of their other products. That rep response is pretty shitty.
 

Karmum

Banned
Contact Newegg for a pricematch since your item has probably not shipped as you bought the card for $100 AR.
Maybe my brain is fried from the beautiful temperatures outside and from three classes, but I'm not sure what you mean exactly...

Edit - Yep, definitely fried. AR: After Rebate. Duh. Getting taxed in NJ blows.

@Hazaro
Indeed they don't, but I was considering putting that money I just spent toward a quieter case. Oh well, that will be for another week I guess...
 
Do you mean LX? It is really limited. You can set your multiplier and it will auto increase voltage IIRC. You can also use AI Suite to manually set voltage once in windows, its just not something that sticks in BIOS. Been working with one of my teammates who has the same board. Got him to a stable 4.4Ghz, which isn't bad.

*edit*
Also, yeah, you do not need PCI-E 3.0. It's all backwards and forwards compatible, and card like the 590/6990 don't even use up half of PCI-E 2.0 bandwidth.

Actually, I gotta reply to this again. You can set your multiplier, but you don't have to auto increase voltage. And you can manually set off-set vcore in the BIOS, as well setting just voltage for turbo, etc. It is not nearly as limited as you are saying.
 
My gaming build uses a 690 II Advanced. It dissipates heat nicely, but I've added some 140mm fans. 2500k with Hyper 212+ running at 4.7 ghz and dual reference 580s. It might have trouble with longer cards. I'm pretty sure anything over 11.9 inches just plain won't fit unless you remove the lower hard drive bays. But a reference 580 fits even with a 140mm fan mounted on the back of the hard drive bays, but just barely.

There's not a ton of space behind the back panel for cable routing compared to some other cases but it's enough to do a clean wiring job.

Mine has the front panel e-sata output instead of the USB3.0 ports.

It's not that big of a deal for me, but this is only a gaming rig. The PC that syncs all my devices and handles all of my storage is separate.

Thanks for the input. One thing that's important to me, from the product page: "Dust-control filters for all meshed areas." How well do those work, and are they removable? My current case has a removable filter by the front fan that I wash every month or so, and I've never needed to dust out the inside, it's completely spoiled me. Airflow's important, but looking at the 690II, I'm a little concerned that the mesh holes on the front and especially the side are kind of big and will let a lot of dust through...

Also, which spots did you add fans in?
 

Karmum

Banned
Oh my mistake. I thought you bought the card when Hazaro said it was $99 AR.
It's all good, crapped my pants when I saw it read $89.99 AR on the link. A second 460 for $90 (eventually)?

Fuck yes. And NBA 2K11 for free is cool, I guess. Except I have 2K12 on my computer...

I wonder if I can get any money for it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Actually, I gotta reply to this again. You can set your multiplier, but you don't have to auto increase voltage. And you can manually set off-set vcore in the BIOS, as well setting just voltage for turbo, etc. It is not nearly as limited as you are saying.
You're right. I was thinking of the P8P67 LE.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I imagine it probably runs quieter than the EVGA 460 cause of two fans, right?
It should. I haven't looked at anything, but it should.
I was going to build a new rig 7-15 months from now, but my 9800gt has been tellin' me it needs tagged out.

I think I'll still wait though since all my other hardware is about 3 years old. I might as well just replace everything all at once.
7-15 months is a loooooooong time.

I'd buy the 460, you can pawn it off in a year for at least $50 so $40 for a ton of improved frames would be well worth it.
 

Yoritomo

Member
Thanks for the input. One thing that's important to me, from the product page: "Dust-control filters for all meshed areas." How well do those work, and are they removable? My current case has a removable filter by the front fan that I wash every month or so, and I've never needed to dust out the inside, it's completely spoiled me. Airflow's important, but looking at the 690II, I'm a little concerned that the mesh holes on the front and especially the side are kind of big and will let a lot of dust through...

Also, which spots did you add fans in?

They do work, but they're not easily removable. The only easily removable one is the bottom filter. The side filter in particular has to be "mounted" in between the fan you place on the side panel and the fan. Any time you want to wash it you have to remove the fan. The filter aren't actually just the holes you see, but small plastic stamped membranes that are in place in the areas where the intake fans are. I'd just get the case you want and mount filter foam or something between the fan and the intake area if you want a particular case or design. The front panel to the 690 comes off really easily though, I just haven't dusted lately. I built this machine after we got rid of the cat.

They do however capture dust. If I dust the case I only have to dust the areas where the filters are.

I believe it only comes with 3 fans, rear exhaust, top exhaust and front intake. I added a bottom intake fan, side intake fan, and a fan on the back of the hard drive cage to move more air towards the video cards, I'm able to over volt my dual 580s to 1.050 volts and run them at 890 in the winter and 870 the rest of the time on the core clock without excessive noise or heat.

If I weren't running two big hungry hot cards I probably wouldn't have bothered with more than adding the sidepanel fan.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Mhm. All I go off of is what I see and think I can piece together. ASUS certainly has some iffy boards in their lineup. I can't speak for QA of their other products. That rep response is pretty shitty.

I know. And it's probably sound advice for others to follow. But after seeing that Asus seemed to have a higher proportion of DOA responses than the other options, coupled with the absolutely lousy Consumer Rep responses, to purposely avoid Asus if possible.

It probably didn't help that I was already bitter that their entire lot of 700 dollar 120hz monitors seemed to be all defective (US batch). So seeing that feedback when I was already growing weary just pushed me into another direction.
 

Dibbz

Member
UK GAF does anyone have experience with Scan? I'm looking to buy a GPU from there and just want to know if they are good.
 

Lanbeast

Member
·feist·;36291834 said:
His comments make a good deal of sense, though.

Alright well, and feel free to berate me if what I say is wrong or dumb, but I was mainly worried about bottlenecks. This is my current setup that, like I said, I built ~3 years ago.

The ram doesn't say but it's old PQI
I also don't know why it says 2287MB for my GPU, this is what it was: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121268
I may as well throw my HD on there too since it's still in my newegg history. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136320

HuAVx.png


If I throw this GPU in there, won't my ram or processor be holding me back still anyway?
 

Karmum

Banned
Paying the tax in NJ on NewEgg is totally worth it, that 460 appears to be coming tomorrow, somehow. Free three-day shipping in NJ is more like "free one, max two day shipping even on a Saturday."

Yeah, I'll pay the $8 tax on the thing or whatever. New car and another 460 tomorrow? Life is good, real good.
 

Lanbeast

Member
Paying the tax in NJ on NewEgg is totally worth it, that 460 appears to be coming tomorrow, somehow. Free three-day shipping in NJ is more like "free one, max two day shipping even on a Saturday."

Yeah, I'll pay the $8 tax on the thing or whatever. New car and another 460 tomorrow? Life is good, real good.

Congrats. When I was in college in PA but only about 10 mins from the Jersey border, we would order from Newegg and it would arrive the next morning usually.
 
My future build as of now buying from Amazon:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Processor $220
MOBO: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 1066 $105
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz $50
PSU: XFX ATX 550 Power Supply - P1550SXXB9 $68
FAN: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler $36
DVD: Asus 24xDVD±RW Serial ATA $23
KB/M Logitech Desktop MK120 Mouse and keyboard Combo $18

Total $520. I have an Antec 300 case and a 320gb HDD which I will use until I can get a SSD later on. I'm going to get a GTX 680 when they are in stock. I'm not going to overclock. As for the monitor I'm looking at the ASUS VW246H, only thing is I brought ASUS VH236H a few weeks ago but had to return it because of backlight bleeding at the top of the screen.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
My future build as of now buying from Amazon:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Processor $220
MOBO: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 1066 $105
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz $50
PSU: XFX ATX 550 Power Supply - P1550SXXB9 $68
FAN: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler $36
DVD: Asus 24xDVD±RW Serial ATA $23
KB/M Logitech Desktop MK120 Mouse and keyboard Combo $18

Total $520. I have an Antec 300 case and a 320gb HDD which I will use until I can get a SSD later on. I'm going to get a GTX 680 when they are in stock. I'm not going to overclock. As for the monitor I'm looking at the ASUS VW246H, only thing is I brought ASUS VH236H a few weeks ago but had to return it because of backlight bleeding at the top of the screen.

I'd suggest buying a quality mouse and keyboard. If you have a hard budget, I'd rather have a slightly less powerful GPU and a quality mouse and keyboard than a GTX 680.
 

mkenyon

Banned
My future build as of now buying from Amazon:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Processor $220
MOBO: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 1066 $105
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz $50
PSU: XFX ATX 550 Power Supply - P1550SXXB9 $68
FAN: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler $36
DVD: Asus 24xDVD±RW Serial ATA $23
KB/M Logitech Desktop MK120 Mouse and keyboard Combo $18

Total $520. I have an Antec 300 case and a 320gb HDD which I will use until I can get a SSD later on. I'm going to get a GTX 680 when they are in stock. I'm not going to overclock. As for the monitor I'm looking at the ASUS VW246H, only thing is I brought ASUS VH236H a few weeks ago but had to return it because of backlight bleeding at the top of the screen.
Why the 2500K and a Hyper 212 then? I'm not kidding when I say you literally change 2 values for a 30% linear increase in performance.

Also, yeah, get a good KB/M. CM Storm Xornet is a crazy good mouse for the $.
 
Alright well, and feel free to berate me if what I say is wrong or dumb, but I was mainly worried about bottlenecks. This is my current setup that, like I said, I built ~3 years ago.

The ram doesn't say but it's old PQI
I also don't know why it says 2287MB for my GPU, this is what it was: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121268
I may as well throw my HD on there too since it's still in my newegg history. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136320

http://i.imgur.com/HuAVx.png

If I throw this GPU in there, won't my ram or processor be holding me back still anyway?
Correct, though you'll still have a considerable boost. If you look at Hazaro's original comment, he seems to be saying it based on yours first remark about your GPU needing to be "tagged out." A capable $90 GPU sounds like it would help you in that regard, and, as he mentioned, can be later sold off for very little loss. You can also keep it as a back up GPU, when you do get to a ground up build in your 7-15 month window. Never hurts to have spare components around.

BTW, IIRC your CPU does ~3.4GHz. You should consider OC'ing it, unless it's on some non-OC OEM board.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Noted. I'll look around, any suggestions? I was going to something better once Mechwarrior Online came out.

It's come down to personal choice and there's been lots of threads on the subjects if you want to get varied opinions. Hazaro has linked to the mechanical keyboard thread in the OP and there's a new mouse thread that literally pops up every 6 months or so.

I use a Logitech G700 mouse and Cooler Master CM Storm mechanical keyboard. But there are literally dozens of equally valid choices. It's not so much the specifics as it is getting something quality. These are how you interact with your rig and quality components here make a real difference.
 
They do work, but they're not easily removable. The only easily removable one is the bottom filter. The side filter in particular has to be "mounted" in between the fan you place on the side panel and the fan. Any time you want to wash it you have to remove the fan. The filter aren't actually just the holes you see, but small plastic stamped membranes that are in place in the areas where the intake fans are. I'd just get the case you want and mount filter foam or something between the fan and the intake area if you want a particular case or design. The front panel to the 690 comes off really easily though, I just haven't dusted lately. I built this machine after we got rid of the cat.

They do however capture dust. If I dust the case I only have to dust the areas where the filters are.

I believe it only comes with 3 fans, rear exhaust, top exhaust and front intake. I added a bottom intake fan, side intake fan, and a fan on the back of the hard drive cage to move more air towards the video cards, I'm able to over volt my dual 580s to 1.050 volts and run them at 890 in the winter and 870 the rest of the time on the core clock without excessive noise or heat.

If I weren't running two big hungry hot cards I probably wouldn't have bothered with more than adding the sidepanel fan.

Thanks, I think you and feist have pretty much sold it for me. I don't think I would bother with a side fan, so I would probably want to cover the side vents with something and tape it up. So it sounds like the front filters are easy enough to dust away, just not removable? Are they in front of the fan or behind it?
 

mkenyon

Banned
In the front of the fan. You just pull off the front bezel.

You won't need to worry about covering anything up as long as you maintain positive pressure, meaning you want more CFM going into the case than out. This means the air will be sucked through the filters, and the nooks and crannies like the side vent will have air blowing out of them.

Also there is a Black and White version that has been reviewed and will supposedly be out soon. Not sure how that jives with your aesthetic choices or if it's important to you. It's good enough that I'm pretty close to ordering one to replace my 600T when I can find one stateside.
 
Why the 2500K and a Hyper 212 then? I'm not kidding when I say you literally change 2 values for a 30% linear increase in performance.

Also, yeah, get a good KB/M. CM Storm Xornet is a crazy good mouse for the $.

It's come down to personal choice and there's been lots of threads on the subjects if you want to get varied opinions. Hazaro has linked to the mechanical keyboard thread in the OP and there's a new mouse thread that literally pops up every 6 months or so.

I use a Logitech G700 mouse and Cooler Master CM Storm mechanical keyboard. But there are literally dozens of equally valid choices. It's not so much the specifics as it is getting something quality. These are how you interact with your rig and quality components here make a real difference.

Thanks alot. As for overclocking, I was leaving the option open if I did or didn't, so I should anyway right?. I'll look into the mouse & keyboard as you say it comes down to personal choices.
 

mkenyon

Banned
What do you guys think of the Antec 520M?
http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product3.php?id=NzA0NDgy

I've got a GX750 that is just ridiculously loud. This is a modular supply that fits in my budget.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095

Same price, and way better.

Per your second paragraph, do you mean that there is too much case clutter and you are hoping that reduced amounts of cables will make it quieter? Check OP for link to cable management guide.
 
What do you guys think of the Antec 520M?
http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product3.php?id=NzA0NDgy

I've got a GX750 that is just ridiculously loud. This is a modular supply that fits in my budget.
Based on an entry- to mid-level SeaSonic 80+ Bronze platform, so that's a good start. 620W version is supposed to be solid. I'd imagine the 520 is as well, so long as the pricing is reasonable.

edit:
The 520M is about $76, or $56 after rebate. The platforms are very similar. Antec likely changed the fan, and, possibly, some other components. It's obviously a somewhat unknown model due to its newness, though if he reads some 520M and 620M reviews, it should be clear to him whether it makes sense as a good enough budget option, or not.​



Thanks, I think you and feist have pretty much sold it for me. I don't think I would bother with a side fan, so I would probably want to cover the side vents with something and tape it up. So it sounds like the front filters are easy enough to dust away, just not removable? Are they in front of the fan or behind it?
You won't find a better case at that price (even before the rebate), unless you come across an insane Black Friday sale, or desperate Ebay seller-type deal.

CM 690 II Advanced (USB 3.0 version) -vs- non-USB 3.0 differences
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=32710728&postcount=17226
CM 690 II Advanced Black & White Edition
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=34569406&postcount=2502

old 690 ii:
CM690II-Adv_02.jpg


new 690 ii:
top3.jpg


You lose the larger CPU cutout, and cable grommets, but there's a simple solution to that, if it's a big deal to you.

old 690 ii:
Teu4o.jpg



$55 case + $10 grommets + $17 USB 3.0 full case top panel (again, only if you need it) = ~$82. Or, roughly $0-20 less than a factory USB 3.0 revised 690 II (depending on where you buy it), and you "save" the $15 CM charges for the GPU bracket accessory kit that USB 3.0 owners would need to buy.
 

kennah

Member
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095

Same price, and way better.

Per your second paragraph, do you mean that there is too much case clutter and you are hoping that reduced amounts of cables will make it quieter? Check OP for link to cable management guide.

I mean the Cooler Master Powersupply I have. The fan is really loud. Minimal cable clutter in my case and it's easily twice as loud as the powersupply it replaced (Antec SP-500)

What's the quietest powersupply for around $100?

I have a Q6600, 5 hard drives and a 6850
 

fallagin

Member
Would it be better to get 2 of those 90$ 460s than to get the gtx 560 448 cores? Would you need a special cooling system to do that?
 
Would it be better to get 2 of those 90$ 460s than to get the gtx 560 448 cores? Would you need a special cooling system to do that?
IIRC, it would be ~15% better performance, or higher. Tradeoffs include dealing with multi-card issues, less VRAM than the 448, and needing proper spacing and airflow to extract all the heat being dumped into your case. No "special" cooling needed, so much as making sure you don't have inadequate case cooling.

There's an intro to SLI in the OP, if you're unfamiliar.
 
So based on what some of you know, is the 680 worth buying a new MOBO and Ivy Bridge for? OR...

Will the 7xx series be an even bigger jump?
 

fallagin

Member
·feist·;36297515 said:
IIRC, it would be ~15% better performance, or higher. Tradeoffs include dealing with multi-card issues, less VRAM than the 448, and needing proper spacing and airflow to extract all the heat being dumped into your case. No "special" cooling needed, so much as making sure you don't have inadequate case cooling.

There's an intro to SLI in the OP, if you're unfamiliar.

Thank you for answering my question :)
 
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