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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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cilonen

Member
thanks alot for the feedback, i looked at them and i was in shock! is this what most PC gaf has lol?

I went for the cheap generic leatherette office depot / staples effort.

I covet a Herman Miller Aeron though, and have done for a couple of years.
 

zulfate

Member
I went for the cheap generic leatherette office depot / staples effort.

I covet a Herman Miller Aeron though, and have done for a couple of years.

thanks! looks comfy but it seems a bit overpriced.



thanks alot, why does it look like a simple chair? i went to best buy the other day and saw a comfy leather chair there but do you mind me asking what is it that makes those high cost chairs so good?

i bought a chair at a goodwill and in a matter of weeks it felt like i was sitting on wood.
 

Blitzhex

Member
Thinking of getting a z77, IVB - 3770k upgrade over my Q9550 @ 3.8 ghz. I'm pretty much running 90%+ cpu usage in BF3 on B2K 64p maps. Anyone reckon it would be a good upgrade or should I hold out till Haswell?

I've got a 570gtx as well, and very rarely does it go up to 90%+ usage in BF3 on 64p maps.
 

Draft

Member
thanks alot, why does it look like a simple chair? i went to best buy the other day and saw a comfy leather chair there but do you mind me asking what is it that makes those high cost chairs so good?

i bought a chair at a goodwill and in a matter of weeks it felt like i was sitting on wood.
It is a simple chair made of high quality material with numerous ergonomic adjustment options.
 

GraveHorizon

poop meter feature creep
Do you really need an optical drive? Personally, I don't even have one. Or, maybe you could get one later. You can install Windows from a USB stick and how many physical games do you actually have? Is there any way you could get a cheaper Win 7 license (if you're a student or have friends that are, etc)? Those two things could bring down the price a fair bit.

I don't have any physical games, but I do want to be able to burn DVD's/Blu-rays so I can keep all the anime I want in one place, as well as just watching stuff on discs. I don't have a cheaper way to get Windows 7. I also realize that the monitor is a contributor to the cost inflation, but all I have right now is shitty CRT's, and I want to view 1080p video on a great screen.

The bigger problem with buying a Blu-ray player is they don't seem to come with any software for movie playback.

When I realized I needed to buy a new SATA DVD to install a couple things, I considered going the Blu-ray route. But they pretty much sucked without buying expensive software. So I just went with the 10 dollar DVD drive and called it a day.

Lg's bluray drives come with PowerDVD 12

Newegg doesn't list any software included with the drive, and there are conflicting reviews on whether it comes with any. Several other sites don't list any software in their specifications, even the product site, but Amazon's Product Description says "LG Internal 12x Blu-ray Writer, bulk with software". Maybe it's because the one on Newegg is listed as OEM?

Why not one of the other boards?

I was looking at boards with 32GB max memory, and that one looked nice to me. I was also considering the ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 for an extra $14, but can't tell if it's any better. Which would you suggest for better performance/futureproofing?

But if I can spend an extra $14 on a motherboard, should I just add $15 for an i5-2500K instead of the i5-2400? I know the gains aren't that much, but it seems like such a small amount of money to increase performance. This is stressing me out! (I don't plan on overclocking, but may consider it in the future.)

EDIT: Would there be any bottlenecking with an i5-2500K and a Radeon HD 6870? Would the combination require an aftermarket cooler?
 

Ledsen

Member
It's not limiting so much as a minor consideration. Is there something wrong with that board in particular? What makes a better board?



Do what I do and get your chairs free on the side of the road.

nono, i'm not saying anything about the board. just that 32gb ram shouldn't be a feature to look for.
 

LAMBO

Member
i just put one together, i've done it 3 times in the past. i plugged everything in, press power and the power light on the front of the case blinked once for a second, no fans spin, nothing. I reseated everything, and tried to start it with as little things hooked up as possible. even took the board out of the case and hooked up everything outside of the case on a piece of wood with an antistatic bag on it and i get nothing.

dammit
 

Ledsen

Member
i just put one together, i've done it 3 times in the past. i plugged everything in, press power and the power light on the front of the case blinked once for a second, no fans spin, nothing. I reseated everything, and tried to start it with as little things hooked up as possible. even took the board out of the case and hooked up everything outside of the case on a piece of wood with an antistatic bag on it and i get nothing.

dammit

Same thing happened to me, if the fans aren't spinning it's most likely something shorting the mb... but you did re-rig everything and it still didn't work. hmmm. for me the (weird) thing that fixed it was removing and then re-seating the CMOS battery.
 

clav

Member
i just put one together, i've done it 3 times in the past. i plugged everything in, press power and the power light on the front of the case blinked once for a second, no fans spin, nothing. I reseated everything, and tried to start it with as little things hooked up as possible. even took the board out of the case and hooked up everything outside of the case on a piece of wood with an antistatic bag on it and i get nothing.

dammit

DOA mobo or power supply.

RMA mobo first and then power supply next. If you do have a power supply spare, test the current mobo with that one.

You do have the 4/8 pin connector plugged in right?
 

Ledsen

Member
Or do the paper clip test with the PSU to rule that out.

disclaimer: haven't tried this myself so don't know how well it works.
 

LAMBO

Member
I'll do what you say, i have an old psu somewhere and i'll give that a try and i'll check that battery. then i'll exchange the mobo tomorrow. I bought it from a store so at least i don't have to wait for the mail. Thank for your suggestions.

Yes i had the 4 pin connector plugged in. Never heard of the paperclip test, i'll look into that (sounds dangerous heh)
 

clav

Member
·feist·;36294313 said:
Ask-a-question-get-someone-s-help-and-never-bother-to-respond-back-GAF.


Love you guys.

*looks at GAF tech support thread*

iknowthatfeelbro.jpg


I'll do what you say, i have an old psu somewhere and i'll give that a try and i'll check that battery. then i'll exchange the mobo tomorrow. I bought it from a store so at least i don't have to wait for the mail. Thank for your suggestions.

Yes i had the 4 pin connector plugged in. Never heard of the paperclip test, i'll look into that (sounds dangerous heh)

I think if you are to do that, don't plug in the graphics card as I don't know how powerful your old power supply is.

Just make sure you can power on the computer with the essentials: CPU, RAM, and Power. Hot start it by carefully bridging the power pins or just put the two pin case power pins in.


Thanks. I guess it would be penny wise pound foolish not to get the upgrades.

I have a hard drive but it's external. Can I pop it open and put it in the case?

Depends. Some external hard drive manufacturers like Samsung and Seagate have gimped models that have the USB controllers soldered where SATA power and connector heads are, especially on the 2.5" versions, so that design discourages users to take out the drives.

Plus, if you take a hard drive out of the casing, the warranty is voided. I know Seagate labels the drives in its externals as OEM, so if you are to RMA it, the support page says it knows nothing about the drive's warranty status and refers you to contact the person who sold you the drive. You have to RMA according to the external drive case's serial number.

What do you have?
 

Coldsnap

Member
My sound card is like RIGHT under my video card. Is this ok?

a0092e4c.jpg
 

scogoth

Member
My sound card is like RIGHT under my video card. Is this ok?

a0092e4c.jpg

And this is why mATX boards shouldn't be used when a ATX board will fit. You may have to stick something between your GPU and sound card to keep it open. It doesn't need much space to get airflow but almost looks like the sound card is sealed against the GPU
 

Coldsnap

Member
Yea... Do sound cards do much? It's an audigy 2, I got it off a Craigslist trade. This pc will be my htpc setup tho so I need good sound
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Yea... Do sound cards do much? It's an audigy 2, I got it off a Craigslist trade. This pc will be my htpc setup tho so I need good sound

If you're using HDMI, a lot of video cards can do audio when outputting with HDMI. Even my ancient GTX 460 allows this.
 

LAMBO

Member
question, will the fans spin with just the cpu in? what's the least you can have connected and get those pesky fans spinning. Thanks for your help, i'll be messing with this expensive paperweight tomorrow (watching the rangers and getting messed up tonight to ease the pain!)
 

fallagin

Member
I'm thinking of getting a pc built through ibuypower. Does anyone have any experiences with them? I have the specs here, this custom build is 1303.88 after tax and shipping. Any opinions on any of the parts and the price are appreciated. I'm kind of unnerved at the thought of screwing up building it myself so I thought a little extra for building it and a warranty wont bother me too much.

Edit: Also useful to note that I have a free student copy of windows 7 64 bit.

Intel Z68 Core i5/i7 Configurator
1 x Case ( NZXT Tempest EVO Gaming Case - Black )
0 x Case Lighting ( None )
0 x iBUYPOWER Labs - Noise Reduction ( None )
0 x iBUYPOWER Labs - Internal Expansion ( None )
1 x Processor ( Intel® Core™ i7-2700K Processor (4x 3.50GHz/8MB L3 Cache) )
0 x iBUYPOWER PowerDrive ( None )
1 x Processor Cooling ( Asetek 550LC Liquid CPU Cooling System (Intel) - Standard 120mm Fan )
1 x Memory ( 8 GB [2 GB X4] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand )
1 x Video Card ( NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti - 2GB - Single Card )
1 x Video Card Brand ( Major Brand Powered by AMD or NVIDIA )
1 x Motherboard ( ASUS P8Z68-V LX -- Lucid Virtu Technology )
0 x Intel Smart Response Technology ( None )
1 x Power Supply ( 700 Watt - Standard )
1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive )
0 x Data Hard Drive ( None )
1 x Optical Drive ( 24X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive - Black )
0 x 2nd Optical Drive ( None )
0 x Flash Media Reader / Writer ( None )
0 x Meter Display ( None )
0 x USB Expansion ( None )
1 x Sound Card ( 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard )
1 x Network Card ( Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100) )
1 x Operating System ( None- Pre-formatted Hard Drive Only )
1 x Keyboard ( iBUYPOWER USB Keyboard )
1 x Mouse ( iBUYPOWER Internet Mouse )
0 x Monitor ( None )
0 x 2nd Monitor ( None )
1 x Speaker System ( iBUYPOWER 2.1 Channel Stereo Super Bass Subwoofer Speaker System )
0 x Video Camera ( None )
0 x Case Engraving Service ( None )
1 x Warranty ( 3 Year Standard Warranty Service )
1 x Rush Service ( Rush Service Fee (not shipping fee) - No Rush Service, Estimate Ship Out in 5~10 Business Days )
 

Shambles

Member
Ugh this should be so easy to solve but apparently a basic USB 3.0 PCI-E card is so damn hard to find up here in Canada. I'm looking for one that has both USB 3.0 ports on the back as well as the 19-pin motherboard header from a fairly reliable brand. I believe the computers that they'll be going in have extra molex power connections so I prefer that but chances are they also have extra SATA power connections available too, I just can't be 100% sure. So far looking through memory express, canada computers, newegg, and NCIX hasn't brought up anything that would work. This really shouldn't be rocket science, ugh. I'm hoping someone has recently tracked one down in this country that knows where one could be found, thanks.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'm thinking of getting a pc built through ibuypower. Does anyone have any experiences with them? I have the specs here, this custom build is 1303.88 after tax and shipping. Any opinions on any of the parts and the price are appreciated. I'm kind of unnerved at the thought of screwing up building it myself so I thought a little extra for building it and a warranty wont bother me too much.
Massively overpaying, at least $300, and not so choice value parts.
Get:
2600K
Air Cooler
Much better graphics
Better PSU
Better KB and Mouse

I highly recommend you take a look at the video sections in the OP. It is a very simple process to put together and will help you get more comfortable and troubleshoot, upgrade, and replace parts on your own.
 
Unless one is video editing or using other specialized hyperthreading apps, why get a 2600k over a 2500k? Aren't they the same performance gaming wise?
 

Data West

coaches in the WNBA
So, this isn't really a building PC question, but I'm looking for the experience here. Next gen, I don't plan on buying any consoles. I already have the Vita and might get a 3DS when they fix the screen scratching problem. Instead of buying a new console, I was considering buying a pre-built(yes, I know. But my hands are too shaky with things like this, and I don't know anyone in the area who knows how to do them, so I'm willing to pay a bit more to get it done professionally with a warranty) computer. I was gonna stuff it with fairly high end components(though nothing 'top of the line') and hook it up to my tv via HDMI and an xbox controller. Essentially, I want to turn a pc into a strictly game playing machine in the entertainment center. I'll make some plans to implement mouse and keyboard setups later, but that's my base idea.

Between steam sales and modding, it's been really hard to resist sticking to my PC over motion controls and 'eh' sales. I've already got a decent laptop that keeps track of my work, music, browsing, etc. It can play games okay, but it's not as good as it could be, and it's a huge pain to move the charger from where it is. Anyone done something similar to this that has some advice?
 

kevm3

Member
Considering developers still use 360/ps3 as the baseline for developing titles, is there even a real reason for me to upgrade from a gtx 470 other than playing at insane resolutions or wanting to get crazy framerates? In other words, are any games coming out soon that are actually built for pcs in mind and will push a top-notch graphics card?
 

vaelic

Banned
whats the easiest way to update the BIOS on asus maximus gene-z? also when I do update the BIOS, will it reset all my custom settings?
 

fallagin

Member
Massively overpaying, at least $300, and not so choice value parts.
Get:
2600K
Air Cooler
Much better graphics
Better PSU
Better KB and Mouse

I highly recommend you take a look at the video sections in the OP. It is a very simple process to put together and will help you get more comfortable and troubleshoot, upgrade, and replace parts on your own.

The upgrade from 2600k -> 2700k costs no extra on the site I guess. I guess I don't really need an I7, I could probably get just a 2500k. Should I get the 2550k since it is a free upgrade or is that a bad idea?

Are there major setbacks to liquid cooling? Or are you just talking about pricewise?

what type of graphics card would you recommend?

As for keyboard and mouse, I'm thinking about getting better ones at some point, but right now I will probably stick with cheap ones.

I was also able to get free shipping which saves ~75 dollars. Ill redo the build to see what you think. Thank you for helping me!

Edit: Okay I retooled it to this:

1 x Case ( NZXT Tempest EVO Gaming Case - Black )
0 x Case Lighting ( None )
0 x iBUYPOWER Labs - Noise Reduction ( None )
0 x iBUYPOWER Labs - Internal Expansion ( None )
1 x Processor ( Intel® Core™ i5-2550K Processor (4x 3.40GHz/6MB L3 Cache) )
0 x iBUYPOWER PowerDrive ( None )
1 x Processor Cooling ( Certified CPU Fan and Heatsink )
1 x Memory ( 8 GB [2 GB X4] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand )
1 x Video Card ( NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570 - 1.2GB - EVGA Classified - Core: 822MHz - Single Card )
1 x Video Card Brand ( Major Brand Powered by AMD or NVIDIA )
1 x Motherboard ( ASUS P8Z68-V LX -- Lucid Virtu Technology )
0 x Intel Smart Response Technology ( None )
1 x Motherboard USB / SATA Interface ( Motherboard default USB / SATA Interface )
1 x Power Supply ( 750 Watt - Corsair CMPSU-750AX )
1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive )
0 x Data Hard Drive ( None )
1 x Optical Drive ( 24X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive - Black )
0 x 2nd Optical Drive ( None )
1 x Flash Media Reader / Writer ( 12-In-1 Internal Flash Media Card Reader/Writer - Black )
0 x Meter Display ( None )
0 x USB Expansion ( None )
1 x Sound Card ( 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard )
1 x Network Card ( Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100) )
1 x Operating System ( None- Pre-formatted Hard Drive Only )
1 x Keyboard ( iBUYPOWER USB Keyboard )
1 x Mouse ( iBUYPOWER Internet Mouse )
0 x Monitor ( None )
0 x 2nd Monitor ( None )
1 x Speaker System ( iBUYPOWER 2.1 Channel Stereo Super Bass Subwoofer Speaker System )
0 x Video Camera ( None )
0 x Case Engraving Service ( None )
1 x Warranty ( 3 Year Standard Warranty Service )
1 x Rush Service ( Rush Service Fee (not shipping fee) - No Rush Service, Estimate Ship Out in 5~10 Business Days )

I bolded the changes so that it's easier to see.

Once I decide to overclock I will probably get the coolermaster 212+ to replace the stock cooler.
Also I guess the 570 may not be the best choice in terms of overall power/price however I am generally worried about the talk of amd card driver problems.

The total cost is $1,266.94 with tax (and of course I changed it to free shipping)
 

DarkFlow

Banned
The upgrade from 2600k -> 2700k costs no extra on the site I guess. I guess I don't really need an I7, I could probably get just a 2500k. Should I get the 2550k since it is a free upgrade or is that a bad idea?

Are there major setbacks to liquid cooling? Or are you just talking about pricewise?

what type of graphics card would you recommend?

As for keyboard and mouse, I'm thinking about getting better ones at some point, but right now I will probably stick with cheap ones.

I was also able to get free shipping which saves ~75 dollars. Ill redo the build to see what you think. Thank you for helping me!

Edit: Okay I retooled it to this:



I bolded the changes so that it's easier to see.

Once I decide to overclock I will probably get the coolermaster 212+ to replace the stock cooler.
Also I guess the 570 may not be the best choice in terms of overall power/price however I am generally worried about the talk of amd card driver problems.

The total cost is $1,266.94 with tax (and of course I changed it to free shipping)

I have a 6870, and don't ever really have driver problems. What's scaring you about AMD? Nvidia has just as many problems as AMD, they just take turns.


As for your build, don't buy a pre built. Your wayyyy over paying for crappy parts and less power. I looked at Ibuy before I built mine just to get a idea of how much more they charge to make it.

My build:
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid Tower

Graphics: SAPPHIRE AMD Radeon HD 6870 1GB

Mobo: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM

CPU: Intel Core i3-2120

PSU: Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus Series 500W ATX12V V2.3 Power Supply

RAM: Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB (2x4 GB Modules) 1600 MHz

HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200 500 GB

Monitor: ASUS VH202T-P 20' Widescreen LCD

Grand Total: Around $700 for everything.

Now Ibuy for pretty much the same thing was over a $1000, and that's not even adding in a monitor. Just build it yourself, it will take you 30 mins. Building a pc is super easy, everything only goes in one slot one way. If your planing on spending that much, you could get a 7970 or a GTX680 for the same price your paying Ibuy.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
So, this isn't really a building PC question, but I'm looking for the experience here. Next gen, I don't plan on buying any consoles. I already have the Vita and might get a 3DS when they fix the screen scratching problem. Instead of buying a new console, I was considering buying a pre-built(yes, I know. But my hands are too shaky with things like this, and I don't know anyone in the area who knows how to do them, so I'm willing to pay a bit more to get it done professionally with a warranty) computer. I was gonna stuff it with fairly high end components(though nothing 'top of the line') and hook it up to my tv via HDMI and an xbox controller. Essentially, I want to turn a pc into a strictly game playing machine in the entertainment center. I'll make some plans to implement mouse and keyboard setups later, but that's my base idea.

Between steam sales and modding, it's been really hard to resist sticking to my PC over motion controls and 'eh' sales. I've already got a decent laptop that keeps track of my work, music, browsing, etc. It can play games okay, but it's not as good as it could be, and it's a huge pain to move the charger from where it is. Anyone done something similar to this that has some advice?
There is an entire sub section of PC's specced as 'HTPC' which often overlap with having a nice UI, especially for games.
There's an old thread: The 4th console. Which you should check out.
Considering developers still use 360/ps3 as the baseline for developing titles, is there even a real reason for me to upgrade from a gtx 470 other than playing at insane resolutions or wanting to get crazy framerates? In other words, are any games coming out soon that are actually built for pcs in mind and will push a top-notch graphics card?
470 is a great card and should serve you well for a good time.
whats the easiest way to update the BIOS on asus maximus gene-z? also when I do update the BIOS, will it reset all my custom settings?
Download, put on USB, install. Some makers have in windows tools, but avoid those.
I think if you saved your settings into a profile you can reload them, no garuntees.
The upgrade from 2600k -> 2700k costs no extra on the site I guess. I guess I don't really need an I7, I could probably get just a 2500k. Should I get the 2550k since it is a free upgrade or is that a bad idea?

Are there major setbacks to liquid cooling? Or are you just talking about pricewise?

what type of graphics card would you recommend?

As for keyboard and mouse, I'm thinking about getting better ones at some point, but right now I will probably stick with cheap ones.

I was also able to get free shipping which saves ~75 dollars. Ill redo the build to see what you think. Thank you for helping me!

Edit: Okay I retooled it to this:

I bolded the changes so that it's easier to see.

Once I decide to overclock I will probably get the coolermaster 212+ to replace the stock cooler.
Also I guess the 570 may not be the best choice in terms of overall power/price however I am generally worried about the talk of amd card driver problems.

The total cost is $1,266.94 with tax (and of course I changed it to free shipping)
Personally I would get a 2500K instead for GPU troubleshooting.
Air cooling for cost, but sometimes those are 'free'.
Still overpaying, but at least the parts aren't bad.
 

Sethos

Banned
whats the easiest way to update the BIOS on asus maximus gene-z? also when I do update the BIOS, will it reset all my custom settings?

You HAVE to put it on a USB, load into BIOS and open EZ Flash or whatever they call it and then let it do its thing. Don't use Asus' windows tools, they are notorious for being shit. It wipes the BIOS and then chokes on installing the updated version, meaning you won't be able to boot again. Today it's not a massive problem with all this crashfree BIOS and BIOS recovery but still, don't do it. This is experiences and from reading ASUS forums years ago so maybe their tools have improved but I wouldn't take the chance.

And yes, it will reset your settings.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
whats the easiest way to update the BIOS on asus maximus gene-z? also when I do update the BIOS, will it reset all my custom settings?

Yeah use EZ flash in the bios Advanced view. Thanks for asking this, made me go check Asus and my P8H61-M LE/CSM had a Bios update.

P8H61-M LE/CSM BIOS 3605
1.Improve system stability.
2.Improve memory compatibility.
3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
* Enable support for Intel Next Gen 22nm Processor E1 stepping MP version CPU.

Ivy bridge is coming!
 

GraveHorizon

poop meter feature creep
I still wouldn't use an Intel board. 2 newegg and 2 amazon reviews. 4 power regs and P67 instead of Z68.
I'd pick any of the $110 ones in the list over it.

Fuc* it, I'm going with the ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3, and bumping the CPU up to the i5-2500K as well. While I'm at it, a 1TB hard drive. This system better be able to render the moon once it's put together. >:|

Updated list:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($129.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($97.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Merc Alpha ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($55.24 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH12LS39 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($79.99 @ Mwave)
Monitor: Asus VS228H-P 21.5" Monitor ($139.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1050.02

I do realize that this is probably a stupid waste of money, but... I want a good computer, damn it!
 
I'm slightly interested in a new keyboard. I currently have a Saitek Eclipse and Microsoft 500 - naturally, I'm unsatisfied. Despite the fact that birthday money is flowing in, I'm not buying a $100 mechanical. I found 3 different options on eBay and want input.

CHERRY G81-1822HQMUS PS2 BLACK KEYBOARD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230761044710?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
This is probably the cheapest mechanical keyboard that doesn't look like it's 30 years old. I don't know what type of switches it uses. I want a kind that's balanced for typing and gaming.

Logitech Illuminated Ultra Thin USB Wired Keyboard
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110847641159?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
A fancy Logitech KB for half price - what's not to love? I'm certain I would like this one.

Rosewill RK-800G Black 104 Normal Keys PS/2 Wired Gaming Keyboard
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290688752420?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
By far the cheapest option. It uses ABS rubber dome keys which I am unfamiliar with. Are they a solid upgrade from my current KBs?
 

MrBig

Member
Yes you are correct. DDR1/2/3 are not interchangeable

Thanks.
Looks like I'll be building a tower for my next build. I really don't need it now though, so I'm thinking if I start buying parts over a few months to a year in waiting for Ivy Bridge and 600-700 range of Nvidia cards would I be able to chance into some great deals on parts to make that happen?
Need it to be fairly powerful for doing art (photoshop/3ds max/zbrush etc, so I want plenty of RAM and vRAM) as well as doing some gaming (BF3, TW2, Skyrim, just about anything really).
Currently running a laptop with (2008 HP HDX 18t with replaced HDD and RAM):
2.4 ghz C2D
4gb DDR2 800mhz ram
750gb hybrid drive
9600m GT 512mb
 

Dynamic3

Member
I'm slightly interested in a new keyboard. I currently have a Saitek Eclipse and Microsoft 500 - naturally, I'm unsatisfied. Despite the fact that birthday money is flowing in, I'm not buying a $100 mechanical. I found 3 different options on eBay and want input.

CHERRY G81-1822HQMUS PS2 BLACK KEYBOARD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230761044710?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
This is probably the cheapest mechanical keyboard that doesn't look like it's 30 years old. I don't know what type of switches it uses. I want a kind that's balanced for typing and gaming.

Logitech Illuminated Ultra Thin USB Wired Keyboard
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110847641159?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
A fancy Logitech KB for half price - what's not to love? I'm certain I would like this one.


Rosewill RK-800G Black 104 Normal Keys PS/2 Wired Gaming Keyboard
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290688752420?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
By far the cheapest option. It uses ABS rubber dome keys which I am unfamiliar with. Are they a solid upgrade from my current KBs?

As much as I love this keyboard (I own it), I cannot recommend it. It has one fatal flaw: you cannot press W + SHIFT + SPACE at the same time...meaning you can't jump while sprinting forward in a FPS. It really sucks given how often I play BF3.
 

Zimbardo

Member
do you guys have any special recommendations as to good/cheap 120mm case fans?

right now i'm using these Coolermasters ...(kinda loud but move a lot of air)
Coolermaster R4-L2R-20AC 120MM Blue LED Case Fan 2000RPM 69CFM 19DBA 3/4 Pin
http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=42176&vpn=R4-L2R-20AC-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER


but i'm curious about these, and if they are any good? ie, noise levels, and do they move a good amount of air? etc.

Yate Loon D12SL-12 120MM RED/BLACK Fan 1350RPM 47CFM 28DB 3/4PIN Sleeve Bearing OEM Sleeved Retail
http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=33852&vpn=D12SL-12-RED/BLACK&manufacture=Yate Loon

so any input on those Yate Loons? or any other recommendations for cheap but good 120mm case fans? tyvm, btw.
 
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