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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Forgot to post this, but a few days ago my Vertex 2 SSD died (I had moved it to my laptop since I have a Crucial M4 in my desktop). So fucking glad I wasn't using it on my desktop because it just DIED, 100%, out of the blue. Tried to use it in an external enclosure... nope. It's flat-out dead. Guessing it took everything on the drive with it.

Fuck OCZ's Sandforce reliability. Never again.
 

clav

Member
Forgot to post this, but a few days ago my Vertex 2 SSD died (I had moved it to my laptop since I have a Crucial M4 in my desktop). So fucking glad I wasn't using it on my desktop because it just DIED, 100%, out of the blue. Tried to use it in an external enclosure... nope. It's flat-out dead. Guessing it took everything on the drive with it.

Fuck OCZ's Sandforce reliability. Never again.

I guess SF still holds its reputation after all. Even the Intel 520s are not reliable.
 

Teknoman

Member
Yeah I can see that the techs put you on interleaved to add error correction on your line as your line would be perfect for fastpath, and your pings would be 20ms lower.

As for Uverse, I've had mixed feelings about it. I know that Verizon and AT&T no longer want to maintain their copper networks, so they've been pushing people to FTTC/FTTH options. Both networks also are discontinuing their expansions.

Uverse still uses your copper line through VDSL as opposed to ADSL to your home. From the home to the curbside cabinet is where your fiber line begins, but since you live so close to the CO, I suppose your line would be as close to a fiber connection can be.

Up to you, but if you're open to the idea, why not?

I still like the idea of having a POTS phoneline for emergencies as cell phone reception severely reduces in a power outage. However, the telco companies are simply milking and diming what's left of its aging copper infrastructure, which is no longer properly maintained, so I guess if you want something better, go for it.

Yeah definitely keeping the old phoneline, more than useful during a hurricane power outage. Are 2wire modems known for being low quality because after searching...i've seen alot of complaints on other forums/amazon about problems similar to what i'm having.
 

teiresias

Member
I'm really debating whether to sell off my two GTX460s and get a GTX680. The pair still perform great since I pretty much only game at 1920x1080, though the 1GB VRAM gives me issues at time (mainly only in Skyrim with mods though). I dunno. If I do it, I'll probably try and be nice to forum and sell them pretty cheaply to someone on here (or two people if no one wants both - they're not a matching set of cards - I know some people care about that sort of thing, haha).
 

clav

Member
Yeah definitely keeping the old phoneline, more than useful during a hurricane power outage. Are 2wire modems known for being low quality because after searching...i've seen alot of complaints on other forums/amazon about problems similar to what i'm having.

I've never used one as I tend to avoid modem/router combos. 2wire seems to have an agreement with AT&T users both Uverse and DSL.

I like to have my modem and router separate, so if one breaks, I just replace that one and I can choose a stable router. If you're open to this idea, then continue reading.

-------------

I know some AT&T users swear by their SpeedStream modems although you'll probably have to look on eBay for that. I think there are the 4100 and 5100 models.

If you're looking for a modem that you can buy new, Actiontec modems are on Amazon, and Verizon now uses this brand for both its fiber and DSL lines.

Avoid the Motorola 2210. Those things barely last an year as I went through two of them.

As for me, I use an old Westell 6100 modem that a tech handed to me in pity.

However, if you choose a different provider's modem, you may need to change the VPI/VCI values according to your region.

-------------

As for a router, the Netgear routers tend to be reliable out of the box with no Linux firmware mod needed.

If you intend to look for cheaper alternatives and put Linux firmware on them, the refurbished Linksys E1000 is not a bad start although I prefer the E2000 or E3000.

-------------------------------

Question that popped in my head, what do you use for your current wireless settings? G or N?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'm looking at this case: http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3986710&sku=A107-1121

And I'll be putting in an HD6870 and i3 2100.

I'm open to changing the case type, but since I'll be using it primarily as a 'console'. I liked the aesthetics of the HTPC over the conventional case.

Also, thanks for all the help you've been giving me.
Looks like it uses a standard ATX PSU?
It might spec for smaller, but the image seems like it.

I would not tell anyone to run an APEVIA PSU, so I'd suggest looking at replacing it.
Maybe look at some nicer cases? mATX and HTPC cases don't come cheap though.
 

Smokey

Member
I'm really debating whether to sell off my two GTX460s and get a GTX680. The pair still perform great since I pretty much only game at 1920x1080, though the 1GB VRAM gives me issues at time (mainly only in Skyrim with mods though). I dunno. If I do it, I'll probably try and be nice to forum and sell them pretty cheaply to someone on here (or two people if no one wants both - they're not a matching set of cards - I know some people care about that sort of thing, haha).

460s -> sli 680's would be a hell of a upgrade.

mindblowing type upgrade
 

clav

Member
I'm looking at this case: http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3986710&sku=A107-1121

And I'll be putting in an HD6870 and i3 2100.

I'm open to changing the case type, but since I'll be using it primarily as a 'console'. I liked the aesthetics of the HTPC over the conventional case.

Also, thanks for all the help you've been giving me.

Please do yourself a favor like Hazaro says and do not use the stock PSU. Using an underpowered power supply may cause your whole system to wreck in the event of a power surge. Also, the PSUs do not produce the wattage as stated.
 
Looks like it uses a standard ATX PSU?
It might spec for smaller, but the image seems like it.

I would not tell anyone to run an APEVIA PSU, so I'd suggest looking at replacing it.
Maybe look at some nicer cases? mATX and HTPC cases don't come cheap though.

Please do yourself a favor like Hazaro says and do not use the Apevia PSU. Using an underpowered power supply may cause your whole system to wreck in the event of a power surge.

Thanks for the advice. I've revised my whole set up. This is my first powerful PC, and I want to make sure it's decent and cost effective. What are your thoughts?
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=36425310
Motherbroad:AsRock H61M

CPU: I3 2100

PSU: Cool Max 500W

Graphics: Sapphire HD 6870

Ram: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 4GB

DVD: Asus Blu Ray Drive

HDD: I think I can make my external HDD an internal one. Don't want to drive up the cost if I don't have to...
 

teiresias

Member
460s -> sli 680's would be a hell of a upgrade.

mindblowing type upgrade

I'd be moving from 460 SLI to a single 680. 460 SLI is about equivalent to a 580, so it would still be an upgrade, just not as much as you're suggesting. I also get the increase in VRAM and the decrease in power consumption (heat isn't and noise aren't an issue with my setup).
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Thanks for the advice. I've revised my whole set up. This is my first powerful PC, and I want to make sure it's decent and cost effective. What are your thoughts?
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=36425310
Motherbroad:AsRock H61M

CPU: I3 2100

PSU: Cool Max 500W

Graphics: Sapphire HD 6870

Ram: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 4GB

DVD: Asus Blu Ray Drive

HDD: I think I can make my external HDD an internal one. Don't want to drive up the cost if I don't have to...
PSU: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_442&item_id=036731

I'd be moving from 460 SLI to a single 680. 460 SLI is about equivalent to a 580, so it would still be an upgrade, just not as much as you're suggesting. I also get the increase in VRAM and the decrease in power consumption (heat isn't and noise aren't an issue with my setup).
I'm waiting for 660/670.
 

GraveHorizon

poop meter feature creep
Thanks for the advice. I've revised my whole set up. This is my first powerful PC, and I want to make sure it's decent and cost effective. What are your thoughts?
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=36425310
Motherbroad:AsRock H61M

CPU: I3 2100

PSU: Cool Max 500W

Graphics: Sapphire HD 6870

Ram: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 4GB

DVD: Asus Blu Ray Drive

HDD: I think I can make my external HDD an internal one. Don't want to drive up the cost if I don't have to...

I went with the Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($55.24). The Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 (also the card I chose) requires two 6 pin power connectors, so you have to make sure your power supply specifically has at least two of them. It looks like that 450W only has one 6 pin.
 

clav

Member
I went with the Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($55.24). The Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 (also the card I chose) requires two 6 pin power connectors, so you have to make sure your power supply specifically has at least two of them. It looks like that 450W only has one 6 pin.
He can borrow another PCI-E connector from a molex connector.

Hardwaresecrets liked the Antec VP-450 as it performed quite well with its tests even though it's basically a rebranded Antec Basiq 450.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Antec-VP450-Power-Supply-Review/1487
 

clav

Member
G. If it helps, everything is connected by ethernet (PC, 360, PS3) aside from a PC in another room (wireless), Wii, and handheld/tablets.

EDIT: Well the b/g setting.

Ok, so that rules out the possibility of a wireless drop out as the 20 MHz bandwidth is used for wireless G and wireless N 150 Mbps unlike the 40 MHz required for wireless N 300 Mbps.

This has to be a modem and/or line issue.
 

clav

Member

Smokey

Member
I'd be moving from 460 SLI to a single 680. 460 SLI is about equivalent to a 580, so it would still be an upgrade, just not as much as you're suggesting. I also get the increase in VRAM and the decrease in power consumption (heat isn't and noise aren't an issue with my setup).

Ah thought you were talking about going to 680 SLI. Regardless even a single 680 would be a noticeable jump over 460 SLI, and you'd get more VRAM.

On a unrelated note...I was reading up on BF3 and just found out about the whole FXAA vs. MSAA deal. I usually don't dig too deep into the tech side of things so I was just throwing the game on Ultra settings and rolling with it in both SP and MP. Figured why not. Well after reading up on the two AA modes and realizing how much of a hit MSAA is I just rolled with FXAA on High and tried SP level.

Was averaging 135fps :eek:. Kept everything else at Ultra just took MSAA off. Laughing at myself for just now reading up on this. All of this came from the 120hz discussion from last night so I was just messing around in the settings seeing what I could do to hold 120fps. So smooth and I can't believe I just found out about this lol
 
Looks like that's only available in stores and may vary since it's a clearance model. :|

Is there a reason why you can't use NCIX Canada or are you planning to purchase your parts B&M?

http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=60491&vpn=NEO-ECO450C&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1211

I'm going B&M, that way if I have a problem someone on staff can give me a hand and I'm heading into the city tomorrow. I might not get all the parts tomorrow, but I'm hoping to have it built by Sunday.

I'm using this as a potential substitute for now: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_442&item_id=037552
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'm going B&M, that way if I have a problem someone on staff can give me a hand and I'm heading into the city tomorrow. I might not get all the parts tomorrow, but I'm hoping to have it built by Sunday.

I'm using this as a potential substitute for now: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_442&item_id=037552
Nonono. Not that one.

One of these instead.
http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_441&item_id=033350
http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_442&item_id=027539
http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_443&item_id=019983
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim

harrytang

Member
G. If it helps, everything is connected by ethernet (PC, 360, PS3) aside from a PC in another room (wireless), Wii, and handheld/tablets.

EDIT: Well the b/g setting.

no idea regarding the technical aspects of your problem, but I can tell you that I just had verizon fios installed and was having disconnect problems with the dsl every few hours. constantly booted out of xbox live games ect.

none of the usual fixes worked. they finally had to disable all phone jacks in the house except for the one going to the dsl modem. didnt even have a land line or phone plugged in anywhere. no disconnect issues since though. 20MBps down and 10 up.
 
For anybody looking to buy an i5-2500k and an Asrock z68 extreme3 Gen 3, Micro Center is running some kind of promotion. Went in just to price yesterday and an employee there let me know it's $50 bucks off the mobo when getting the processor at the same time.

Not sure if it applies to any other motherboards.. I can't find the deal on Micro Center's site.
 

clav

Member
no idea regarding the technical aspects of your problem, but I can tell you that I just had verizon fios installed and was having disconnect problems with the dsl every few hours. constantly booted out of xbox live games ect.

none of the usual fixes worked. they finally had to disable all phone jacks in the house except for the one going to the dsl modem. didnt even have a land line or phone plugged in anywhere. no disconnect issues since though. 20MBps down and 10 up.
G. If it helps, everything is connected by ethernet (PC, 360, PS3) aside from a PC in another room (wireless), Wii, and handheld/tablets.




EDIT: Well the b/g setting.

I've suggested the line cutting for dry-loop users, but since Tekno has POTS landline service, he can't do that.

I wonder.

Have the AT&T techs installed a splitter at the NID (service) box rather than using phone filter jacks? That would be the closest equivalent what harrytang is saying as it'll give you a dedicated line that filters the DSL signal from the service box rather than using cheap filters attached to the landline phones.
 

Phandy

Member
Hey PC GAF I got some questions.
I'm unlucky enough to have my RAM die on me, and quite possible my PSU dying too at the same time, so I'm thinking about upgrading. BUT, I'm thinking about putting it off, but I'm not sure if its worth waiting or not. Questions:

I understand Ivybridge stuff is just around the corner. Does anyone know when, are we talking weeks or months?
Also what kind of price point do we think they will be coming in at. Anything comparable to what the i5 2500k is at?

Also is getting this GEN3 stuff on the motherboards worth it? I understand its for when cards start using PCIe 3.0. What kind of cards are going to be using this.

Basically I'm thinking about picking up one of the more mid range Nvidia cards when they come out in the future, I'm guessing it something around a 660. And I want to be able to pop it straight in, I'm assuming gen3 isn't important for the new cards yet. (without bottlenecking it would be a bonus too)

If non of that is a worry I'll be picking up a normal i5 2500k/z68 combo soon, and hope that the Ivybridge stuff doesn't knock the prices way down after I just bought it. Since it might be an emergency purchase since I need my pc for work.

I appreciate any thoughts you guys have. Thanks.
 
Need some more help.

I've been using a Linksys wireless USB adapter for an internet connection for awhile now, and have had little problems. But lately it seems to drop the connection whenever a large amount of information is being downloaded. Originally I couldn't download GTA IV over Steam, but not it's degraded where even opening image threads on GAF can kill it. Once the connection is down, it seems that it can't be repaired until the PC is fully restarted. It seems to be becoming more frequent, and I'm getting tired of it. I've tried doing these things with other devices and have had no trouble, so I'm pretty sure it's my adapter.

I figured I would buy a replacement, maybe going for a PCI wireless card. I was wondering if there were any recommendations, or anything I should know before I start looking?
 

clav

Member
Need some more help.

I've been using a Linksys wireless USB adapter for an internet connection for awhile now, and have had little problems. But lately it seems to drop the connection whenever a large amount of information is being downloaded. Originally I couldn't download GTA IV over Steam, but not it's degraded where even opening image threads on GAF can kill it. Once the connection is down, it seems that it can't be repaired until the PC is fully restarted. It seems to be becoming more frequent, and I'm getting tired of it. I've tried doing these things with other devices and have had no trouble, so I'm pretty sure it's my adapter.

I figured I would buy a replacement, maybe going for a PCI wireless card. I was wondering if there were any recommendations, or anything I should know before I start looking?

I think the Linksys wireless adapters are RALink based, which I find to be the bottom of the barrel in terms of performance although I may have had too many bad experiences with their routers (e.g. ASUS RT-N13U) and other client devices (e.g. Rosewill cards).

I like TP-Link wireless cards as they're Atheros based and readily available. I haven't had a chance to use USB wireless adapters as I like the old proven methods of using PCI and PCI-e cards.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hey PC GAF I got some questions.
I'm unlucky enough to have my RAM die on me, and quite possible my PSU dying too at the same time, so I'm thinking about upgrading. BUT, I'm thinking about putting it off, but I'm not sure if its worth waiting or not. Questions:

I understand Ivybridge stuff is just around the corner. Does anyone know when, are we talking weeks or months?
Also what kind of price point do we think they will be coming in at. Anything comparable to what the i5 2500k is at?

Also is getting this GEN3 stuff on the motherboards worth it? I understand its for when cards start using PCIe 3.0. What kind of cards are going to be using this.

Basically I'm thinking about picking up one of the more mid range Nvidia cards when they come out in the future, I'm guessing it something around a 660. And I want to be able to pop it straight in, I'm assuming gen3 isn't important for the new cards yet. (without bottlenecking it would be a bonus too)

If non of that is a worry I'll be picking up a normal i5 2500k/z68 combo soon, and hope that the Ivybridge stuff doesn't knock the prices way down after I just bought it. Since it might be an emergency purchase since I need my pc for work.

I appreciate any thoughts you guys have. Thanks.
Ivy Bridge delayed, so at least a month. Marginal increases and PCI-E 3.0 is not a big deal. Don't worry about buying now. GTX 660/670 around that time as well so if you buy now it's not a big deal, if you wait it's not a big deal either.
 

clav

Member
Ivy Bridge delayed again, so at least 2 months. Marginal increases and PCI-E 3.0 is not a big deal. Don't worry about buying now.

I wonder if the changes are similar to those of Conroe to Wolfdale from the LGA775 era. Slightly faster + less heat.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
I wonder if the changes are similar to those of Conroe to Wolfdale from the LGA775 era. Slightly faster + less heat.

Pretty much. It'd be worth waiting a month for if you had a working rig, but with the way they keep delaying things, it's not something to put everything on hold for.

Ivy Bridge delayed again, so at least 2 months. Marginal increases and PCI-E 3.0 is not a big deal. Don't worry about buying now.


http://www.slashgear.com/intel-ivy-bridge-launch-confirmed-for-april-29-27220313/

Wait, what? That article just came out yesterday and says April 29th is confirmed. They recently announced the Ivy Bridge-E chips had been delayed till June - 2013, but are you sure anything else has gotten another delay?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Pretty much. It'd be worth waiting a month for if you had a working rig, but with the way they keep delaying things, it's not something to put everything on hold for.

http://www.slashgear.com/intel-ivy-bridge-launch-confirmed-for-april-29-27220313/

Wait, what? That article just came out yesterday and says April 29th is confirmed. They recently announced the Ivy Bridge-E chips had been delayed till June - 2013, but are you sure anything else has gotten another delay?
I hadn't checked in about a week, 4/29 sounds good to me.

Gains are pretty minimal though, 5-10% clock for clock and less power draw only under load. PCI-E 3.0 is not needed.
 

Smokey

Member
I've suggested the line cutting for dry-loop users, but since Tekno has POTS landline service, he can't do that.

I wonder.

Have the AT&T techs installed a splitter at the NID (service) box rather than using phone filter jacks? That would be the closest equivalent what harrytang is saying as it'll give you a dedicated line that filters the DSL signal from the service box rather than using cheap filters attached to the landline phones.

just wondering...do you work in networking?

i always see you spittin some type of fire when it comes to routing/networking
 

clav

Member
just wondering...do you work in networking?

i always see you spittin some type of fire when it comes to routing/networking

I wish I had a real job. :lol Still need to find some stable source of income.

I just like to help people out when it comes to networking because it can be so confusing. I've worked with a lot of home network setups, so I feel a bit obligated to help people out.
 
Freakout time!

My girlfriend's laptop freezes (mouse cursor included) a couple minutes after startup in normal mode. I have tried checkdisk w/auto fixing, system restore to a couple days earlier, malwarebytes full virus scan, fixing issues in the registry, disabling lots of startup items, and checking memory for errors but none of it has helped. It does not freeze in safe mode. And I'm thinking it's not a heat issue because it still happens even after being shut down all night, and even when cooling it down with compressed air into the vents.

Do you guys have any other troubleshooting suggestions or know if there's a way for us to tell if it's a hardware issue before we go through the long process of backing up files and then reinstalling Windows 7?

Thanks!
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Freakout time!

My girlfriend's laptop freezes (mouse cursor included) a couple minutes after startup in normal mode. I have tried checkdisk w/auto fixing, system restore to a couple days earlier, malwarebytes full virus scan, fixing issues in the registry, disabling lots of startup items, and checking memory for errors but none of it has helped. It does not freeze in safe mode. And I'm thinking it's not a heat issue because it still happens even after being shut down all night, and even when cooling it down with compressed air into the vents.

Do you guys have any other troubleshooting suggestions or know if there's a way for us to tell if it's a hardware issue before we go through the long process of backing up files and then reinstalling Windows 7?

Thanks!

Can you install something like HWMonitor to absolutely rule out temperature problems?

Running and keeping open Process Explorer would be great if it were software based. If something spikes to 99 percent just before it locks, at least you'd know the root cause and might be able to eliminate the issue that way.
 
Can you install something like HWMonitor to absolutely rule out temperature problems?

Running and keeping open Process Explorer would be great if it were software based. If something spikes to 99 percent just before it locks, at least you'd know the root cause and might be able to eliminate the issue that way.

This is what she's getting from HWMonitor in Safe Mode:

j3uAK.jpg


Does this temp look okay?

In Process Explorer, she found that msmpeng.exe and svchost.exe were using most of the CPU memory prior to crashing.

nL0Iy.jpg

(this is the frozen screen)

What does this information tell us?
 

Sethos

Banned
Quick question, what's everyone using for temperature monitoring? CPU Mainly. As accurate reading as possible would be nice.
 

Yoritomo

Member
Freakout time!

My girlfriend's laptop freezes (mouse cursor included) a couple minutes after startup in normal mode. I have tried checkdisk w/auto fixing, system restore to a couple days earlier, malwarebytes full virus scan, fixing issues in the registry, disabling lots of startup items, and checking memory for errors but none of it has helped. It does not freeze in safe mode. And I'm thinking it's not a heat issue because it still happens even after being shut down all night, and even when cooling it down with compressed air into the vents.

Do you guys have any other troubleshooting suggestions or know if there's a way for us to tell if it's a hardware issue before we go through the long process of backing up files and then reinstalling Windows 7?

Thanks!

I'm gonna predict hard drive issues. Some anti-virus programs have caused this as well. If you're using IRST drivers I'd try Microsoft drivers instead or vice versa.

My guess in your case is some sort of conflict occuring with MS antimalware and your trend micro antivirus

I'd uninstall the trend micro security stuff and see if that fixes the problem. If that doesn't fix it download a dpc latency checker to see if something is spiking.

Eliminate/kill services unjtil there aren't any spikes and you can isolate what might be happening. If there are no spikes and it just crashes I'd say it might be your hard drive/storage drivers fighting and causing the crash. If that's not it... I have no clue.
 
This is what she's getting from HWMonitor in Safe Mode:

j3uAK.jpg


Does this temp look okay?

In Process Explorer, she found that msmpeng.exe and svchost.exe were using most of the CPU memory prior to crashing.

nL0Iy.jpg

(this is the frozen screen)

What does this information tell us?

Do you recommend Process Explorer?
 

Teknoman

Member
I've suggested the line cutting for dry-loop users, but since Tekno has POTS landline service, he can't do that.

I wonder.

Have the AT&T techs installed a splitter at the NID (service) box rather than using phone filter jacks? That would be the closest equivalent what harrytang is saying as it'll give you a dedicated line that filters the DSL signal from the service box rather than using cheap filters attached to the landline phones.

Not that I know of.
 
I'm gonna predict hard drive issues. Some anti-virus programs have caused this as well. If you're using IRST drivers I'd try Microsoft drivers instead or vice versa.

My guess in your case is some sort of conflict occuring with MS antimalware and your trend micro antivirus

I'd uninstall the trend micro security stuff and see if that fixes the problem. If that doesn't fix it download a dpc latency checker to see if something is spiking.

Eliminate/kill services unjtil there aren't any spikes and you can isolate what might be happening. If there are no spikes and it just crashes I'd say it might be your hard drive/storage drivers fighting and causing the crash. If that's not it... I have no clue.

Tried uninstalling Trend Micro but you cannot uninstall things in Safe Mode. She also tried using ccleaner to uninstall and it still didn't let her. Any suggestions?
 
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