Good choices. Personally I'd go for the G700 but the G500 is great.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Good choices. Personally I'd go for the G700 but the G500 is great.
dat coil or capacitor whine
Nothing you can do about it unless you're willing to open up the device and apply epoxy glue (hot glue) over the coils and/or capacitors. The device will continue to work properly.
we.are.the.armada
Member
Any suggestions for a PC that has triple monitor output on a single GPU (is this even possible)? I'd be running a game like Guild Wars 2 on ultra settings.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Well I am using two monitors so maybe that is why it is staying at around 50 degrees.
Just played some Arma 2 for about 1 hour and a half and them temps hovered around 70's when playing and just now they got as high as 88 degrees. I read a lot of people say your GPU is fine up until you hit 90 then you should start worrying. Well I came very close to it so I'm worrying.
Will another case fan help reduce the heat by much?
To those that wanted to see the NZXT Switch 810:
(click to enlarge)
hows the build quality. I wanted to use that in my upcoming build because of the interior rad space but people have complained its flimsy. I'm not so concerned because I don't move my PC around but just wanted to get your opinion on it.
Either side of the video card isle can. You'll need some really powerful hardware to push decent frames though.
@Sk3tch
What's your opinion on build quality? How would you compare it to other cases you've owned? I'm so close going with the white 810 or holding out for Shinobi XL white. Some of the plastic bits on the 810 seemed really chintzy in the OC3D review of it.
rofl@scogoth.
Well it seems like two separate issues, but yeah, you'll never get really low idle temps unless your GPU reduces voltage when idle. And this can only be done if it's actively driving a single monitor. Otherwise it stays at full voltage the entire time.
It's very nice. HEAVY. So yeah, not moving it around is a plus. The one quibble is shared my most reviews I've read - the top vent thingee that you can open/close is very cheapo. Never really feels like it is on solidly. That being said, you only really need to care about that when you are moving it or taking it apart. Otherwise it just chills and looks just great.
I love the cable management. Love the space. Love the design. Lots of really nice touches. Super easy to work with. High marks from me. No regrets at all.
Better than my Antec P180 and CM 690 II Advanced. And a great value at the $180 they want for it, IMO.
I have a question about 120hz monitors.
If I know that I can't achieve 120fps, should I try to lock at 60 instead? I realize it's not going to be as smooth, but is it going to look otherwise bad? I would guess that it would be better to lock at 60 than to have it fluctuating between say 80-100 or something.
If I know that I can't achieve 120fps, should I try to lock at 60 instead? I realize it's not going to be as smooth, but is it going to look otherwise bad? I would guess that it would be better to lock at 60 than to have it fluctuating between say 80-100 or something.
BigBlackGamer
Member
Upgrading my old and busted i7 930 build to SB-E. I need the CPU power for the heavy encoding I do so this is what I have so far....
Corsair Obsidian 650D
i7 3930k
Asus Sabertooth X79 Motherboard
Intel 520 120GB SSD
Corsair Vengeance 16gb Quad Channel Kit
Noctua NH-D14 (taken from old build)
Corsair HX850 Power Supply (taken from old build)
GTX 580 1.5gb Lightning (taken from old build)
I'll pull the trigger next week and post some pics. I was thinking about getting a GTX 680 but seems pointless as my card is still plenty fast.
Corsair Obsidian 650D
i7 3930k
Asus Sabertooth X79 Motherboard
Intel 520 120GB SSD
Corsair Vengeance 16gb Quad Channel Kit
Noctua NH-D14 (taken from old build)
Corsair HX850 Power Supply (taken from old build)
GTX 580 1.5gb Lightning (taken from old build)
I'll pull the trigger next week and post some pics. I was thinking about getting a GTX 680 but seems pointless as my card is still plenty fast.
Been hearing iffy things about the Intel 520 SSDs. I actually had 2 of the 240GBs at the house but I returned them after reading reviews that are progressively getting worse.
I say go with Samsung 830 SSDs. Awesome drives. Others can chime in with Sandforce-based recs if that's where you want to stick.
I have to recommend against bitfenix cases. They are very well designed and good materials but some LEDs on my colossus case have gone out and bitfenix said they would replace them but it's been months now of emails back and forth and all they will say is they are working on it. So -1 for support.
Question: Currently I have a custom built HTPC with a I3 2105 CPU and SilverStone GD05 case hooked up to a 52" 1080P LCD. I have been using the built-in Intel 3000 graphics chip for some light gaming, but frankly it's horrible. Everything has to be turned down to 720P with most graphics set to low. Battlefield 3 just laughs at it.
I was looking to spend right around $100 to put a discrete card in. I would like a card that doesn't use too much power and is relatively quiet. Most games in 1080P with a few in 720P is where I would like to end up. Is the radeon 7750 my best bet as far as this goes? Seems a little overpriced to me, as it seems like prices for cards in this category have been pretty stagnant for a while.
For around $100 bucks what is the best graphics card that will give me low power usage and is pretty quiet? Does Nvidia have anything coming out soon that fits in this category? I just want to join the comfy couch club without breaking the bank.
I was looking to spend right around $100 to put a discrete card in. I would like a card that doesn't use too much power and is relatively quiet. Most games in 1080P with a few in 720P is where I would like to end up. Is the radeon 7750 my best bet as far as this goes? Seems a little overpriced to me, as it seems like prices for cards in this category have been pretty stagnant for a while.
For around $100 bucks what is the best graphics card that will give me low power usage and is pretty quiet? Does Nvidia have anything coming out soon that fits in this category? I just want to join the comfy couch club without breaking the bank.
Does screen tearing happen on 120hz monitors?
Theoretically yes but it's almost impossible for your eye to see because it's there for less than 1/120th of a second.
7750 and 7770 are the only new cards in that bracket. Not great value, but they do have very low power draw.
7750 probably is your best bet at the moment. Unless you wanted to buy the 7770. The GTX 460 is better than the 7750 and can be had for 100 dollars lately, but it also uses twice the power. So if power is a strong priority, newer is definitely better.
Acquiescence
Member
Anyone?
BigBlackGamer
Member
ahh that sucks. I have 1st gen Intel SSD and I've been happy with how reliable it's been but I have no problem switching.
Opus Angelorum
Member
Around £500 should get you a decent i3 system with a 22" monitor.
GraveHorizon
poop meter feature creep
How about an Inspiron 620 MT? The third one there is £429 (VAT and shipping included), and these are some of the things it has:
Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64bit, English
Intel® Core i3-2120 Processor (3.30GHz, 3MB)
4096MB Dual Channel DDR3 [2x2048] Memory
DVD +/- RW Drive (read/write CD & DVD) with DVD Burn software
500GB (7200rpm) SATA Hard Drive
Graphics : Intel® HD
Integrated 5.1 High Definition Audio
Integrated 8-in-1 Media Card Reader & No Floppy
Dell Wireless 1502 (802.11n) WLAN Full-height Mini-Card
Dell IN2030 20" (51 cm) HD WLED Widescreen Monitor VGA, DVI-D (1600x900) Black UK
Dell MS111 USB Optical Mouse (Indigo)
Dell USB Entry Keyboard - UK/Irish (QWERTY)
Doesn't come with speakers, you could just pick some cheap ones up. It sounds like a decent deal to me, though I'm no expert on systems, so someone else should tell you how good it really is. But it should be able to hold you over if you aren't doing anything intensive.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Anyone think running OC'd SLI GTX 570 2.56GB's on a PC Power & Cooling 760w PSU will be fine? I'm thinking it'll have plenty of juice, especially since it's an extremely well built PSU that exceeds what it's rated for. Contemplating going SLI, unless I can get a 680 GTX here soon.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
I believe you can have both an HDTV and monitor running off your 560 Ti.
Kelegacy
XBOX - RECORD ME LOVING DOWN MY WOMAN GOOD
Man, I've been looking for an affordable (yet good performing) gaming PC for a week now and I can't seem to find one that isn't missing something great. I have looked at CyberPower, iBuyPower, NewEgg, retail stores, etc but all seem to have some sort of issues. I also don't trust CyberPower or iBuyPower due to the customer reviews I've seen on PC sites.
I want to be able to play newer games at high settings, just so I have no fears of having to upgrade in a year or two. My last PC is nearing 10 years old, as I stopped PC gaming due to the upgrading that was prevalent back then. As a result, I am just starting to get some knowlege into what the current cards and specs should be.
I don't want to attempt to build my own, though I know I could probably do it just fine. I just don't want the hassle, so I'm willing to spend a bit more. My budget needs to be under $1000, as I need a new monitor as well. I've seen some nice ones on NewEgg that I was interested in in the $700 range, but again they are from those sellers I am leery about.
Anyone have any prebuilt recommendations from good sellers? Something affordable yet still a good performer? Hell, I've even looked at cheap places like Sam's Club (but of course the graphics cards usually suck in these retail places).
I want to be able to play newer games at high settings, just so I have no fears of having to upgrade in a year or two. My last PC is nearing 10 years old, as I stopped PC gaming due to the upgrading that was prevalent back then. As a result, I am just starting to get some knowlege into what the current cards and specs should be.
I don't want to attempt to build my own, though I know I could probably do it just fine. I just don't want the hassle, so I'm willing to spend a bit more. My budget needs to be under $1000, as I need a new monitor as well. I've seen some nice ones on NewEgg that I was interested in in the $700 range, but again they are from those sellers I am leery about.
Anyone have any prebuilt recommendations from good sellers? Something affordable yet still a good performer? Hell, I've even looked at cheap places like Sam's Club (but of course the graphics cards usually suck in these retail places).
Read the OP. Just build it yourself as the assembly process is as easy as playing with Legos.
We're here to help.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Fucking KELEGACY!? From Evil Avatar/CoG? Whoa, what's up man. Send me a PM. I think you added me on Facebook a few weeks ago. If you want help building a PC, I'd be glad to help you.
Kelegacy
XBOX - RECORD ME LOVING DOWN MY WOMAN GOOD
The one and only. Just started posting here a lot more. And just signed up for this Facebook fad I heard about.
Who are you? Oh and thanks for the offer. Maybe I will try building my own. My wife is always scared when I tinker though. But she's numb like that. I did make a satellite dish out of beer cans so we could get free TV and also built a car out of melted down pennies that gets 40 MPG so you would think she'd trust me by now.
Yes, perfectly fine. If you want a dope PSU-expert forum, check out http://www.jonnyguru.com/. Those guys are insanely brilliant RE: PC power.
Since i've been having DSL signal disconnect issues, none of the ATT techs can figure out why/the problem doesnt occur while they are there, and even after one gave me a new modem, i've been having the same problem. Thinking about just replacing the 2wire 2701 HG-B wireless modem/router they gave me...
Strangely, the problems only started after I upgraded speeds (3008 kbps / 512 kbps) but looking at my details, and checking dslreports FAQ, my signal quality should be rated at very good-excellent).
Can anyone recommend a wireless modem/router to use for DSL that isnt too expensive, but is still pretty dependable? I've heard good things about Netgear...but i've never bought my own modem/router before (and they are just recommending I upgrade to a similar plan with U-verse).
Strangely, the problems only started after I upgraded speeds (3008 kbps / 512 kbps) but looking at my details, and checking dslreports FAQ, my signal quality should be rated at very good-excellent).
Can anyone recommend a wireless modem/router to use for DSL that isnt too expensive, but is still pretty dependable? I've heard good things about Netgear...but i've never bought my own modem/router before (and they are just recommending I upgrade to a similar plan with U-verse).
Since i've been having DSL signal disconnect issues, none of the ATT techs can figure out why/the problem doesnt occur while they are there, and even after one gave me a new modem, i've been having the same problem. Thinking about just replacing the 2wire 2701 HG-B wireless modem/router they gave me...
Strangely, the problems only started after I upgraded speeds (3008 kbps / 512 kbps) but looking at my details, and checking dslreports FAQ, my signal quality should be rated at very good-excellent).
Can anyone recommend a wireless modem/router to use for DSL that isnt too expensive, but is still pretty dependable? I've heard good things about Netgear...but i've never bought my own modem/router before (and they are just recommending I upgrade to a similar plan with U-verse).
You mean you can't connect to the internet for a while?
If you're having connection issues, enter this IP address next time it happens:
192.168.0.1
And then see if your readings fall into the above ranges:
http://www.speedguide.net/articles/cable-modem-signal-levels-1197 (Would assume DSL connections are operating on the same principles.)
If it's a connection issue, you might be able to isolate what the issue is and address the root problem.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Is there a way to fix overscan in Nvidia control panel? It's not scaling right... I can't find it either.
Edit: Nvm, it's called resizing I think... It doesn't look as crisp now though. :/
Edit: Nvm, it's called resizing I think... It doesn't look as crisp now though. :/
Would anyone be able to tell me what the difference between the ASRock H61M-VS and H61M-GS motherboards are?
H61M-VS:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157241
H61M-GS
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157286
The original post by Hazaro recommends the VS. It looks like the main differences are the different audio chipsets and the gigabit ethernet on the GS.
Also, are there any disadvantages with a microATX motherboard?
H61M-VS:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157241
H61M-GS
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157286
The original post by Hazaro recommends the VS. It looks like the main differences are the different audio chipsets and the gigabit ethernet on the GS.
Also, are there any disadvantages with a microATX motherboard?
Can you post your modem stats?Since i've been having DSL signal disconnect issues, none of the ATT techs can figure out why/the problem doesnt occur while they are there, and even after one gave me a new modem, i've been having the same problem. Thinking about just replacing the 2wire 2701 HG-B wireless modem/router they gave me...
Strangely, the problems only started after I upgraded speeds (3008 kbps / 512 kbps) but looking at my details, and checking dslreports FAQ, my signal quality should be rated at very good-excellent).
Can anyone recommend a wireless modem/router to use for DSL that isnt too expensive, but is still pretty dependable? I've heard good things about Netgear...but i've never bought my own modem/router before (and they are just recommending I upgrade to a similar plan with U-verse).
Line signal (dB)
Attenuation
Rates
This is what I used to check signal ranges:
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/6734
My details -
Downstream Rate: 3008 kbps
Upstream Rate: 512 kbps
Channel: Interleaved
Current Noise Margin: 20.0 dB (Downstream) 21.0 dB (Upstream)
Current Attenuation: 6.9 dB (Downstream) 3.0 dB (Upstream)
Current Output Power: -5.6 dBm (Downstream) 5.6 dBm (Upstream)
and according to the FAQ (not sure if info in the FAQ is accurate, but i'm assuming so since alot of techs post there):
Signal noise margin -
20dB-28dB is excellent
Line Attenuation-
20dB and below is outstanding
Output or TX Power
How much power modem (upstream) or DSLAM (downstream) is using. Maximum recommended is about 15dB. The lower the power the better for this measurement.
What I mean is that the DSL light turns red and flashes for about 5 or so seconds at random (can happen several times in a row or just once or twice randomly during the day) which means the DSL signal itself has been dropped. From there the internet light goes out of course, and I lose connectivity for a few seconds.
Happens so fast/for such a small amount of time that even while playing something online, say a game on XBL, I wont get disconnected from Xbox live, but i'll get booted from whatever game I was playing. We've had 3 techs come out and none could find a problem with our lines, anything outside (live in an apartment), or that distance was a factor. Sometimes I can go the entire day without losing connection, and others it can happen several times.
I'll try to access the gateway settings while it's out whenever that happens again though, since those are readings from when everything is working as it should.
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/6734
My details -
Downstream Rate: 3008 kbps
Upstream Rate: 512 kbps
Channel: Interleaved
Current Noise Margin: 20.0 dB (Downstream) 21.0 dB (Upstream)
Current Attenuation: 6.9 dB (Downstream) 3.0 dB (Upstream)
Current Output Power: -5.6 dBm (Downstream) 5.6 dBm (Upstream)
and according to the FAQ (not sure if info in the FAQ is accurate, but i'm assuming so since alot of techs post there):
Signal noise margin -
20dB-28dB is excellent
Line Attenuation-
20dB and below is outstanding
Output or TX Power
How much power modem (upstream) or DSLAM (downstream) is using. Maximum recommended is about 15dB. The lower the power the better for this measurement.
What I mean is that the DSL light turns red and flashes for about 5 or so seconds at random (can happen several times in a row or just once or twice randomly during the day) which means the DSL signal itself has been dropped. From there the internet light goes out of course, and I lose connectivity for a few seconds.
Happens so fast/for such a small amount of time that even while playing something online, say a game on XBL, I wont get disconnected from Xbox live, but i'll get booted from whatever game I was playing. We've had 3 techs come out and none could find a problem with our lines, anything outside (live in an apartment), or that distance was a factor. Sometimes I can go the entire day without losing connection, and others it can happen several times.
I'll try to access the gateway settings while it's out whenever that happens again though, since those are readings from when everything is working as it should.
OK so I got EVGA Precision X and it allows me to set the speed of the fan when temps get to a certain amount, which helps me keep the card in the 60-70's now whilst playing.
Only problem now is the stock fan on my EVGA 560ti 448 is quite loud. Is that common for these cards? It's not too bad since I wear headphones most of the time but I'd love it if I were able to swap out the fan for something a lot quieter. Is that possible?
I'm not sure what's normal on those cards. I'm running a non-reference GTX 460 atm.
You can swap fans out, but I think it has to be the whole heatsink. I've traditionally been a big fan of Accelero, but the latest fans/heatsink is 85 dollars. Seems a bit pricey. Not sure it bothers you that much.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186048
canadian crowe
Member
If my case comes with a 500W Power supply, is it a good idea to get a better one to replace it, or should be stock one be good enough?
Anybody here have experience with the Intel 520 SSDs? I have the random stuttering issue (which I put up with) with the crucial m4 128GB on my laptop. It works perfectly fine when connected to the desktop. I waited for the 520 series from Intel to eventually replace the M4.
I'm considering the 120,180 and even the 240GB Intel 520 SSD. Reliability is my #1 concern. Thoughts?
I'm considering the 120,180 and even the 240GB Intel 520 SSD. Reliability is my #1 concern. Thoughts?
Wow your numbers are outstanding. You could probably get faster speeds as well with that attenuation level since you live really close to the central office.
I suppose you don't have an old telephone around. I doubt you have static on your line, but I guess the techs would have checked for that.
Yeah we've still got our old landline, no static problems and yes they checked for that. Thats probably why all the techs are confused as to whats going on ever since I upgraded, never had any problems...aside from some high ping times a few years back when we first subscribed to the basic package (express I think it was called).
Apparently there are rumors going on that some of the problems are...well...created to get people to move to Uverse since they offer similar speeds/prices with the lowest package...but thats kind of far-fetched.
On that note, think Uverse might be more stable? Because thats what the techs have recommended after being dumbfounded. I'd end up paying 19.99 for the first year, but i'd have to pay $100 for their 2wire 2701HGV-B.
Most of the time 60% fan speed is tolerable under load. Temps are fine.
Depends, what's the model and what is it powering?
Does your laptop have an older chipset? Have you updated the firmware?
Intel 520 is Sandforce, so I'm not super sold on it. Maybe look at the Samsung 830
Yeah I can see that the techs put you on interleaved to add error correction on your line as your line would be perfect for fastpath, and your pings would be 20ms lower.
As for Uverse, I've had mixed feelings about it. I know that Verizon and AT&T no longer want to maintain their copper networks, so they've been pushing people to FTTC/FTTH options. Both networks also are discontinuing their fiber expansions in favor of capturing cell phone marketshare as opposed to future-proofing landlines, so America will soon be in last place for Internet yadayadayadayadayada.
Anyway, back on topic. Uverse still uses your copper line through VDSL as opposed to ADSL to your home. From the home to the curbside cabinet is where your fiber line begins, but since you live so close to the CO, I suppose your line would be as close to a fiber connection can be.
Up to you, but if you're open to the idea, why not?
I still like the idea of having a POTS phoneline for emergencies as cell phone reception severely reduces in a power outage. However, the telco companies are simply milking and diming customers of what's left of its aging copper infrastructure, which is no longer properly maintained, so I guess if you want something better, go for it.
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