-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
basically hotwire a +12V from Master PSU to the sense wire of the Slave PSU, there are some adapters available that do this for you
only needed if a 1200 or 1500 W PSU alone isn't enough (dual Xeon, Quad GPU, bazillion hdds)
All over that Little Devil that I linked to? It's that hot, huh? I can push the budget if need be. If it's *that* good.Man this hobby...
yeah mostly because all other enthusiast cases are pretty ugly imho... don't like all the cubes for starters. Caselabs are great cases but ugly. Silverstone and Lian-Li can be hit and miss. Coolermaster should have done a new stacker, not a cosmos.
ah well plenty of choice, anyone should find something he likes. and else you just mod it
PushingButtons
Member
Hey everyone, just a couple questions.
I'm pondering the purchase of Hazaro's Excellent build listed in the OP. I intend on using the PC hooked up to my HDTV as opposed to a monitor (for convenience and cost saving). Do the parts listed have an HDMI out?
I would also like to to hook it up to my surround sound system. I'm currently using an optical digital cable to run my PS3 to it, how would I run the PC to the surround system?
I'm pondering the purchase of Hazaro's Excellent build listed in the OP. I intend on using the PC hooked up to my HDTV as opposed to a monitor (for convenience and cost saving). Do the parts listed have an HDMI out?
I would also like to to hook it up to my surround sound system. I'm currently using an optical digital cable to run my PS3 to it, how would I run the PC to the surround system?
any modern GPU (or motherboard) has an HDMI output and is able to be connected to your TV/receiver. Even older parts can be connected using a DVI to HDMI cable.
as for the audio; this is more complicated
HDMI audio all the way up to 7.1 is supported by both AMD and Nvidia these days; however only few PC components support OPTICAL audio as well as the PS3 or X360 do. Most optical support is limited to 2.0
to get 5.1 surround over optical from your PC, you'll need a soundcard which supports either Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect
(or motherboard with integrated sound that supports either of those standards but those are even more rare)
Flame Lord
Member
I'm having some kind of serious problem with my processor. Yesterday I was looking at some pictures on Firefox, and I had a pretty good amount open until I noticed that my PC was going kinda slow. I went to my desktop to see that the processor was at 100% usage. I freaked out and turned it off before any damage could be done. When I turned it back on it said CPU was overheated and sent me to the bios. There it showed the CPU was about 69 degree Celsius. It cooled down to 60 degree Celsius and it came back on without a problem.
Today I've noticed though whenever I load something that has a lot of pictures in it, the processor shoots up from like 1-5% to about 18%. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I did install a sound card yesterday and downloaded some patches for some other stuff.
Today I've noticed though whenever I load something that has a lot of pictures in it, the processor shoots up from like 1-5% to about 18%. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I did install a sound card yesterday and downloaded some patches for some other stuff.
PushingButtons
Member
Thanks for the info! So what would be my best bet to get 5.1?
cheapest card you can find that supports those standards (cheap = crappy analog audio components but that doesn't matter for digital audio). Unfortunately these days only the most expensive cards seem to carry these standards :/ (due to license money they leave it off the cheap ones I guess)
if you're in Europe, see if you can find a Club3D Theatron DD. Had that one for years before I got an HDMI receiver.
100% cpu usage over "some pictures" ? sounds like some software issue. But even then it should only slow down your pc and not overheat it. Not even the worst software out there should be able to overheat your cpu if the cooling is working correctly.
If your cooling isn't working, the CPU may downclock itself though. This results in less performance and reaching 100% cpu usage with even light workloads. I'd open up the case first to see if the fan is still spinning and whether or not it's full of dust or other stuff
Got a bit of a problem with my newly built PC. Hooked it up to my TV via HDMI and installed Windows along with drivers for my GTX570. Anything above 1024x768 and I get this weird zoomed in screen where the outer edge is cut off. I can only see a small portion of the task bar. Already tried downloading the latest drivers for the video card, but no luck .Anyone know of a fix?
Its your tvs fault with overscan. Try changing the picture mode to PC, Just Scan, Full Scan, True Scan or something to that affect. If not in the nvidia control panel you can adjust the resolution to make it fit.
I think you would see greater benefit from selling/returning the 4th 680 and going for a full watercooled setup in something like the TJ-07. Dual 360mm rads, dual loops.I think I am just going to get a HAF X for my quad 680 setup. I don't think I will do watercooling this time around...between the CPU, GPUs, mobo, and the 3way BenQ 120hz setup I think I've had enough. Looks like HAF X is the best for an all-air setup like mine and best of all - it's ~$200 (versus $600 for some of those awesome cases mkenyon pointed out). Yeah, it won't look as nice as my NZXT Switch 810, but it'll house the beast and keep it cool.
Any thoughts for/against? Thanks guys.
EDIT: crap...HAF X only has 9 expansion slots. I need 10 or more.
I mean, you can't get an XL-ATX mobo, a $1000 CPU, 4 fucking 680s and then scoff at trying to stuff it all into a case. (this is meant with humor, but serious too)
Otherwise, get yourself a test bench. Would probably make a lot of sense for you too.
Unfortunately, the TJ07 only has 7 expansion slots. I need 10, minimum. It's looking like Cosmos II is going to be the choice. As even HAF X only has 9 expansion slots.
Will I truly find a worthwhile return on investment by opting for that Little Devil $600 case? I would go air for now, and invest in watercooling (maybe) in the future.
A test bench would be good. But this box is in my living room. It'd be mounted behind monitors but I worry about width.
I totally hear you...I am just hitting a wall. Obviously, I've dropped a lot of loot and it was pretty disappointing that my awesome NZXT Switch 810 case didn't work out. Now it looks like it may be $400-$600 for a proper case...
Hey Hazaro, I was thinking about investing in that combination you have for 932. How well will that do me and for how long? What's the upgrade potential like?
I plan to just plug it into my tv and do everything through there. I'm not going to do multiscreens, streaming or any of that, but I do want it to get the best performance for 1080 well into the next generation of consoles.
I plan to just plug it into my tv and do everything through there. I'm not going to do multiscreens, streaming or any of that, but I do want it to get the best performance for 1080 well into the next generation of consoles.
PushingButtons
Member
I'm just gonna piggyback on your question here and inquire about the $749 build. Just curious if that build will grant me 1080p, 50-60fps with medium-high quality settings.
Hey, all!
I'm trying to build a powerful desktop to use for HD video editing and gaming for years to come. If you'd like to simply suggest certain specs, have at it. I'm more so looking for advice on what specifications I should be focused on and educated about throughout this process, but I know that requires more of your time, so it's cool if you don't even touch on that.
Some specifics:
HD video editing must be smooth and minimally taxing on my PC (this means storing lots of huge media files)
I want to be able to play new games on high settings w/ a system that facilitates continuous upgrades.
Looking to spend about $1000-$1500.
Software recommendations would be welcomed, too!
I'm trying to build a powerful desktop to use for HD video editing and gaming for years to come. If you'd like to simply suggest certain specs, have at it. I'm more so looking for advice on what specifications I should be focused on and educated about throughout this process, but I know that requires more of your time, so it's cool if you don't even touch on that.
Some specifics:
HD video editing must be smooth and minimally taxing on my PC (this means storing lots of huge media files)
I want to be able to play new games on high settings w/ a system that facilitates continuous upgrades.
Looking to spend about $1000-$1500.
Software recommendations would be welcomed, too!
I would recommend going for 16gb of RAM and a nvidia card (560ti, or wait for the 600 series), and a 2600k (2500k is more affordable, and the new generation of cores are releasing this month as well) if you are editing in Adobe premiere/after effects, as it would be able to easily take advantage of those.
2600k?
I was going to wait until the summer when I guess all the newest hardware comes out (or so I've been told). So whatever's not out that is coming out, I am also interested in.
Yep, the new generation of intel CPUs will be out at the end of this month. I'm building in May so that I can get both the new generation of CPUs and Nvidia GPUs.
Need some help. I am slowly upgrading my PC. I have the e5400 cpu OC'd to 3.65GHz. I just bought the Asrock H61M-VS board. I want to get Ivy Bridge or i5 later on, but I need to save up, so I'm gonna buy a G620 Sandy Bridge from Microcenter for $50.00 first to tide me over.
Will I see a performance hit from the OC'd e5400 to the G620? The same? Better performance? Help me!
Will I see a performance hit from the OC'd e5400 to the G620? The same? Better performance? Help me!
By month, then, what is really the best time of year to build a PC and have the most up-to-date stuff without new tech making your purchase inferior shortly thereafter?
Flame Lord
Member
cheapest card you can find that supports those standards (cheap = crappy analog audio components but that doesn't matter for digital audio). Unfortunately these days only the most expensive cards seem to carry these standards :/ (due to license money they leave it off the cheap ones I guess)
if you're in Europe, see if you can find a Club3D Theatron DD. Had that one for years before I got an HDMI receiver.
100% cpu usage over "some pictures" ? sounds like some software issue. But even then it should only slow down your pc and not overheat it. Not even the worst software out there should be able to overheat your cpu if the cooling is working correctly.
If your cooling isn't working, the CPU may downclock itself though. This results in less performance and reaching 100% cpu usage with even light workloads. I'd open up the case first to see if the fan is still spinning and whether or not it's full of dust or other stuff
Just happened again. I bought a heatsink with my PC in the first place but didn't install it because I lost a screw (which I found seconds after installing the stock heatsink..) so I guess I'll use that now.
Any advice to removing thermal paste? I was going to buy some 70% rubbing alcohol and some q-tips like I've seen people suggest, but do I take the CPU out of the motherboard when doing this? And if I do what should I lay it on?
You just gotta research what you're buying and look at the current tech rumors. May here just happens to have Ivy Bridge and Kepler releases coinciding. Buying them you won't have to do a full upgrade for 3 or 4 years depending on hardware advancements.
divisionbyzorro
Member
yeah might be the VGA cable. Or the quality of the VGA output itself ... VGA quality is not exactly the focus of today's GPU manufacturers
you could quickly try to attach the casefan to the cpu fan connector and see if it does run that way (quickly = turn off PC, swap the fan connectors, boot up for 20 seconds to see if it works and power it off again)
I switched to a different DVI adapter and the green tint went away! Huzzah! No more worrying about my video card.
Now to get that case fan working...
no just leave the CPU installed, and use small amounts of alcohol to avoid splashing it all over the board
Kos Luftar
Member
I am thinking about getting a new PC but I don't want to go through the hassle of putting all the parts together because I always rush and mess up something. I am thinking of using Memory Express to order all the parts and also pay them $40 for the assembly.
Here is what I am thinking of getting, let me know if it is worth the price.
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K, 3.3Ghz
Motherboards: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM
SSD: OCZ Vertex Plus SATA II, 120GB
HHD: Seagate 1TB Barracuda 7200 SATA III
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST 24x DVD-RW Drive
Video Card: GeForce GTX560 Ti 1.2GB
Power Supply: Antec Basiq BP-550 Plus
Monitor: BenQ 20in GL2030
Keyboard: Cool Master QuickFire Rapid Mechanical Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G400
Speakers: $15 Speakers
This is costing me $1462.85, which also includes the price of Windows 7 ($120) and the assembly cost of $40.
What do you guys think, is it a good deal?
Here is what I am thinking of getting, let me know if it is worth the price.
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K, 3.3Ghz
Motherboards: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM
SSD: OCZ Vertex Plus SATA II, 120GB
HHD: Seagate 1TB Barracuda 7200 SATA III
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST 24x DVD-RW Drive
Video Card: GeForce GTX560 Ti 1.2GB
Power Supply: Antec Basiq BP-550 Plus
Monitor: BenQ 20in GL2030
Keyboard: Cool Master QuickFire Rapid Mechanical Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G400
Speakers: $15 Speakers
This is costing me $1462.85, which also includes the price of Windows 7 ($120) and the assembly cost of $40.
What do you guys think, is it a good deal?
MiniBossBattle
Member
Just wanted to say thank you OP, I built a PC last week and used the guide as the backbone for what I should purchase. Very rewarding to build it from parts.
Putting in the CPU into the motherboard and "clamping" it was really stressful. Two electronic pieces rubbing together is a sound I wish I could forget.
Putting in the CPU into the motherboard and "clamping" it was really stressful. Two electronic pieces rubbing together is a sound I wish I could forget.
Alright gang. I want to do a computer upgrade within 1 month. I filled the info out as best I could. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Your Current Specs: CPU is AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 6400+, 3200 Mhz, GPU is ATI Radeon HD 4850, 8 gb Gskill DDR2 Ram, Asus m3a motherboard ?( don't remember which model)
Budget: Canada, Depends on what I need to upgrade ($250 ish)
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation
Monitor Resolution: 1650 X 1050, I have a kick ass monitor already.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Witcher 2, Mass effect 3, Diablo 3
Are reusing any parts?: I have an antec earthwatts 500W PSU. Would like to use my Sonata 3 tower still. And anything else I can salvage. Not sure
When will you build?: Since this is an upgrade, I say within 1 month.
Will you be overclocking?: No
PS I use ncix.com (canadian store) to buy all my parts. I'm not looking for a top tier rig, just a decent one where I can play all the games. I don't like my current one as it runs too hot and I want to go back to a Geforce video card.
I'm thinking of grabbing this GPU:
http://www.ncix.com/products/index....0 TI DC/DI/1GD5&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1101
Any help would be awesome. Thank you!!
Your Current Specs: CPU is AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 6400+, 3200 Mhz, GPU is ATI Radeon HD 4850, 8 gb Gskill DDR2 Ram, Asus m3a motherboard ?( don't remember which model)
Budget: Canada, Depends on what I need to upgrade ($250 ish)
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation
Monitor Resolution: 1650 X 1050, I have a kick ass monitor already.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Witcher 2, Mass effect 3, Diablo 3
Are reusing any parts?: I have an antec earthwatts 500W PSU. Would like to use my Sonata 3 tower still. And anything else I can salvage. Not sure
When will you build?: Since this is an upgrade, I say within 1 month.
Will you be overclocking?: No
PS I use ncix.com (canadian store) to buy all my parts. I'm not looking for a top tier rig, just a decent one where I can play all the games. I don't like my current one as it runs too hot and I want to go back to a Geforce video card.
I'm thinking of grabbing this GPU:
http://www.ncix.com/products/index....0 TI DC/DI/1GD5&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1101
Any help would be awesome. Thank you!!
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Just have to see when the next GPU and CPU's are coming out, and decide if you want to wait. Right now, you should wait until new CPU's are out. New graphics cards just came out, so with those two things combined you could have yourself a top of the line machine for 6-8 months.
Also, why do you have a picture of the devil as your profile pic? That's fucked up.
The little devil case will certainly be a case to last you years without limiting any options. Also take a look (at hospital forgive lack of pics/links) at Lian Li PC80, and PC 90. Though they have unfinished interiors, you can take them apart really easily, then just have them powdercoated locally for pretty cheap.
By TJ07, I meant switching out mobo and 4th 680, reinvesting in water.
systematic
Unconfirmed Member
Use the tip of an (empty) mechanical pencil.
cartman414
Member
Just read that Intel's introducing it in 2014... but only for high-end servers/workstations. The consumer market will follow a year after.
The difference between the i7 2600K and the i5 2500K is that the former is slightly higher clocked, has just a little more cache, and has hyperthreading, which is only helpful for multithreaded stuff like video editing. It also carries a $100 premium, which Intel knows they can get away with.
This month, their respective Ivy counterparts, the 3770K and 3570K, are coming out at roughly the same price. You'll see only about a 10% improvement over SB (with the exception of the integrated graphics, which are even better this time), but it's right around the corner at this stage. Plus, the new mobos have PCIe 3.0 and integrated USB 3.0.
I would swap out the SSD for something better. You want something that at least has synchronous NAND (or better yet, toggle; avoid async if you can) and SATAIII. The Vertex 4 just came out, and already has quite good value per GB. Or, you might consider Crucial, possibly Samsung from what I hear, or Intel for qa/reliability, though the latter is a little more pricey for a little less performance in certain areas.
Cool. Now I'm thinking Caselabs Magnum M10. About $450 for one with a window (I gotta have this, heh). http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-m10-case/. I can swallow that price a bit better than $600 and it seems to be of a more reasonable size/design.
EDIT: screw it, going with the Rosewill Blackhawk-Ultra. Looks pretty good for the price. And I'm not going liquid cooling, yet (and may not) so I'm wary of overbuying from a case perspective. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147157
Lion Heart
Banned
Lots of good info here guys, thanks.
I'm not too bummed about getting an i5 over IB, if its only 10% performance. I have bigger concerns atm (GPU, Monitor). Cant wait to have money again.
I'm not too bummed about getting an i5 over IB, if its only 10% performance. I have bigger concerns atm (GPU, Monitor). Cant wait to have money again.
Would suggest getting the reverse mounted one (you get to choose). Will show off your 680s more and keep that hot air up top working with thermodynamics. Also, try and find some reasonably priced Scythe GTs (1850s) or go for BitFenix spectre pros.
I think i have gotten a crappy i5 2500k. Wont do anything over 4.4ghz with voltage below 1.4v :\. its really annoying cause my friend has a 2550k doing 4.8ghz on 1.35v.
Also my temps are pretty high :S. 70c with a h60. Think I should reseat the heatsink and redo the thermal paste? Keep in mind im using a sonata 3 case, which is bad for airflow
Also my temps are pretty high :S. 70c with a h60. Think I should reseat the heatsink and redo the thermal paste? Keep in mind im using a sonata 3 case, which is bad for airflow
Thanks for the advice but also go fuck yourself for that last comment.
canadian crowe
Member
So I finally got my parts today:
i3 2120
HD 6850
HAF912
Cooler Master 500W PSU
Kingston 8gb Ram
MSI H61M motherboard
Lite-On DVD drive (I think 24x)
WD Caviar Blue 1TB HDD
Did I do okay? I had a snag in how much I was able to spend so I had to go with the 6850.
i3 2120
HD 6850
HAF912
Cooler Master 500W PSU
Kingston 8gb Ram
MSI H61M motherboard
Lite-On DVD drive (I think 24x)
WD Caviar Blue 1TB HDD
Did I do okay? I had a snag in how much I was able to spend so I had to go with the 6850.
Hey I was looking at this case too. This or the HAF X...
What's better (general question to everybody)?
This is "standard" (not reverse) and with the small window (I'm going large) - looks like standard works better for showing off 680s...am I missing something?
http://www.caselabs-store.com/product_images/f/688/M8_STD_WIN__34872_zoom.jpg
Yeah, I wanna know too. I am generally wary of Rosewill but this has some really good reviews and the price is nice.
I'm starting to get display driver crashes more and more these days. I've had maybe half a dozen already while playing BioShock 2 (on the flipside, I had none at all while playing Mass Effect 3).
I'm running an HD6850 on Windows Vista 32bit. While playing games the GPU get's to around 77C which I understand is hot but not unsafe.
I've read at certain places it could be a lack of voltage, but I was assured my 580w (I think that's what it is) power supply would be enough for this GPU. Plus, I've had this GPU for over a year now and only started getting seldom display driver crashes last fall.
I'm updating my display drivers as I'm typing this.
I'm running an HD6850 on Windows Vista 32bit. While playing games the GPU get's to around 77C which I understand is hot but not unsafe.
I've read at certain places it could be a lack of voltage, but I was assured my 580w (I think that's what it is) power supply would be enough for this GPU. Plus, I've had this GPU for over a year now and only started getting seldom display driver crashes last fall.
I'm updating my display drivers as I'm typing this.
Yeah that will show the pcb side of the GPUs. Reversed will show the label side.
You've convinced me to get this case now for my IB build. M8 reversed with large window, side rad mount, top rad mount and bottom rad mount
Kos Luftar
Member
I decided on a Crucial m4 128gb for the same price.
Everything else on my list seemed like it would be able to handle most of the current high end PC games?
About to order:MAGNUM M10 Case (Color: Black Matte, ATX Layout: Reverse (20.00), MB Side Door: XL Window (20.00), MB Door Window: Clear, PSU Side Door: Ventilated, PSU Door Window: None, Top Cover: Standard Ventilated, I/O Panel: USB 2.0/Firewire/Audio (20.00), PCI Backplate: Hex Mesh, HDD Cage Type: Flex-Bay (MAC-102))
Damn this hobby. Almost done with the build after this.
XANDER CAGE
Member
Hey, y'all. I recently upgraded to a 1TB drive (finally!) and some new RAM. I'm looking for some advice on what graphics cards I could/should be looking at upgrading to, or if I should just hold off and build a new PC at some point soon. Mostly, I'm curious about how useful my CPU/mobo still is.
Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 965 / 8GB DDR3 1333 / GA-770TA-UD3/ Radeon HD 6850 (what I'm most interested in upgrading)
Budget: $200-250? Not entirely sure.
Main Use: Gaming (5), Photoshop (2D drawing and painting) (5)
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080. Nice newer monitor, not interested in changing. I also have a 1600x1200 Wacom Cintiq.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3 is where I'm interested in seeing the biggest performance increase. I currently run it on Medium at 40-50fps depending on the map.
So yeah. Thanks for any help, just wondering if it's worth buying some better graphics card or waiting to do a full new build.
Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 965 / 8GB DDR3 1333 / GA-770TA-UD3/ Radeon HD 6850 (what I'm most interested in upgrading)
Budget: $200-250? Not entirely sure.
Main Use: Gaming (5), Photoshop (2D drawing and painting) (5)
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080. Nice newer monitor, not interested in changing. I also have a 1600x1200 Wacom Cintiq.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3 is where I'm interested in seeing the biggest performance increase. I currently run it on Medium at 40-50fps depending on the map.
So yeah. Thanks for any help, just wondering if it's worth buying some better graphics card or waiting to do a full new build.
Grats! Case isnt my cup of tea, but it certainy destroys any requirement thrown at it. For air, just put fans like you would in any case. There are some folks on OCN that swear by it as an air cooled case.
Spirit of Jazz
Banned
I'm looking to buy my pc within the next week, my current specs are:
EVGA GeForce GTX 560Ti "448 Edition" Classified 1280MB
Intel Core i5-2500K 3.30GHz (Sandybridge) Socket LGA1155 Processor - Retail
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 (Socket 1155) DDR3 Motherboard
Cooler Master HAF 912 Case - Black
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB SATA 6Gb/s 16MB Cache - OEM
XFX Pro 550W Core Edition '80 Plus Bronze' Power Supply
Corsair Vengeance Blue Low Profile 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C9 1600MHz Dual Channel Kit
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler
Samsung SH-S222BB/BEBE 22x DVD±RW SATA ReWriter (Black) - OEM
However I've got a question regarding the RAM. Currently I've got the low profile version listed as people were concerned the standard version would interfere with the heatsink. However given the recommended builds here lists the standard ram with the same mobo and heatsink is it fair to assume they won't interfere with each other (same as with the Newegg build guide but that's the pro board). If that's the case would I be better going with the standard Vengeance RAM over the LP version?
EVGA GeForce GTX 560Ti "448 Edition" Classified 1280MB
Intel Core i5-2500K 3.30GHz (Sandybridge) Socket LGA1155 Processor - Retail
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 (Socket 1155) DDR3 Motherboard
Cooler Master HAF 912 Case - Black
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB SATA 6Gb/s 16MB Cache - OEM
XFX Pro 550W Core Edition '80 Plus Bronze' Power Supply
Corsair Vengeance Blue Low Profile 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C9 1600MHz Dual Channel Kit
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler
Samsung SH-S222BB/BEBE 22x DVD±RW SATA ReWriter (Black) - OEM
However I've got a question regarding the RAM. Currently I've got the low profile version listed as people were concerned the standard version would interfere with the heatsink. However given the recommended builds here lists the standard ram with the same mobo and heatsink is it fair to assume they won't interfere with each other (same as with the Newegg build guide but that's the pro board). If that's the case would I be better going with the standard Vengeance RAM over the LP version?
GraveHorizon
poop meter feature creep
Just finished putting together my unit, took me about 3 hours. So much stressing over not ruining everything; I must have touched the case to discharge static electricity about 50 times. It's too late to keep going because I have work in the morning, so I'll have to do all the setup tomorrow night. So exciting!
- Status