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[BoobPhysics101]

How is it that bad of a deal? Looking at just the specs I was given, if I were to build a something to exactly the same specs I would be spending at least $100 on the mobo, $120 on the videocard, $290 on the CPU, $100 on the case. That's already over $600 before the cost of RAM, hard drive, Windows license, optical drive and power supply.

If you've got a build that's twice as powerful for $100 less then please let me know what it is. I've said that I refuse to build my own PC, but I'm not above having someone else do it.

You can buy a BETTER motherboard and processor TOGETHER for $220-250 total. You can buy a better case for $50. You can buy better RAM for $50. You can buy a videocard that's 50% more powerful for $120. Optical drives are $15. You can buy a 2-4x bigger, faster HDD for under $100. Windows is like $30 if you're a student.

Your knowledge of what things are worth and how they compare is very limited, and you are doing what I jokingly call 'Craigslist pricing' where you try to give everything the highest, inflated value possible to attempt to justify.

A 2500k is $160-180~ and DESTROYS that old ass i7 860, for example. For $120 you can get a 6850/6870 which blows away the 5770.

Quit being lazy and build it yourself. You'll save a lot of time and heartache that way, and you'll get a much better computer. It'll take you under 2 hours. You really trust some knucklehead on Craigslist trying to rip you off on his build quality vs. what you can do yourself?

 

[MysticX]

for HTPC purposed, which would be a better choice? 210 512MB, 520 1GB or 5450 512MB? 1080P playback.

 

[Slavik81]

Any quick recommendations on a NAS drive?

 

[mkenyon]

You can buy a BETTER motherboard and processor TOGETHER for $220-250 total. You can buy a better case for $50. You can buy better RAM for $50. You can buy a videocard that's 50% more powerful for $120. Optical drives are $15. You can buy a 2-4x bigger, faster HDD for under $100. Windows is like $30 if you're a student.

Your knowledge of what things are worth and how they compare is very limited, and you are doing what I jokingly call 'Craigslist pricing' where you try to give everything the highest, inflated value possible to attempt to justify.

A 2500k is $160-180~ and DESTROYS that old ass i7 860, for example. For $120 you can get a 6850/6870 which blows away the 5770.

Quit being lazy and build it yourself. You'll save a lot of time and heartache that way, and you'll get a much better computer. It'll take you under 2 hours. You really trust some knucklehead on Craigslist trying to rip you off on his build quality vs. what you can do yourself?

Hyperbole. Also, why so hostile to this guy? Supposed to be a thread of helping, not scaring into doing what you're saying.

for HTPC purposed, which would be a better choice? 210 512MB, 520 1GB or 5450 512MB? 1080P playback.

Doesn't matter, TBH. Go with whatever draws the least watts.

 

[Hazaro]

Is there a reason you guys recommend the 550 ti over the 460 now? All the sales for 560 ti are always gone before I'm able to get one so I might just get a 550 ti since it's 90-100$

It was included because GTX 460 inventories are shrinking and the 550Ti is easier to find, offers good performance, and is a touch cheaper. The GTX 460 768MB is still great, problem is most places only will carry 1 type in stock at ??? price.

for HTPC purposed, which would be a better choice? 210 512MB, 520 1GB or 5450 512MB? 1080P playback.

Any will do. Get cheapest.

 

[MysticX]

Any will do. Get cheapest.

thx, will grab the 520 then, it´s like 2 dollars so I will get CUDA

 

[border]

Your knowledge of what things are worth and how they compare is very limited, and you are doing what I jokingly call 'Craigslist pricing' where you try to give everything the highest, inflated value possible to attempt to justify.

For price comparisons I went to PriceWatch and quoted the lowest possible value for every component. As I've said I haven't bought any computers parts or components in years so I don't really know what's better or worse than the parts I'm looking at, other than a few generalized guidelines about model numbers and Ghz ratings.

The components I was told were in the system at least sounded better than the parts in the $500 budget machine detailed in the OP, so I figured I was coming out ahead.

Quit being lazy and build it yourself. You'll save a lot of time and heartache that way, and you'll get a much better computer. It'll take you under 2 hours. You really trust some knucklehead on Craigslist trying to rip you off on his build quality vs. what you can do yourself?

I don't trust Craigslist sellers all that much, but I don't really trust myself to build a system either.

For the record, this is why I tend to dislike the official PC threads. Even if someone specifically states that they don't want to build a machine themselves, they will be brow-beaten mercilessly into trying to build their own. Then they'll tell you about some amazing $400 megasystem that they built but neglect to mention that they didn't pay for Windows and re-used a lot of old components like RAM/optical drive/etc or that half the deals they got aren't available anymore because NewEgg sold out or the they had to order 20 different components from 20 different places.

I'm not above buying all the components and having someone else put it together, but I assume that'd probably add an extra $100 to the package.

 

[Kadey]

This RAT3 is too big for my hands. It looks cool and all. Lub my new white keyboard.

Now I just need a few more things and I'm set.

 

[Baron Aloha]

Any recommendations on a thin bezel monitor and a stand? I want to get an Eyefinity type of setup.

I saw Samsung's MD series but those are too pricey for what it is IMO. I think I should be able put something similar together for less than half the price.

I've tried searching for thin bezel monitors on Amazon, Newegg, and whatnot but I'm not having any luck.

Are think bezel monitors significantly more expensive then regular ones? I'm looking at getting something in the 19-22'' range since I will be sitting fairly close to them but I wouldn't rule out buying 3x24''.

 

[Branson]

So I might be building a new computer soon. And here is what I was thinking. Any suggestions?

The card and black case is free so disregard the price on those lol.

 

[foomfoom415]

I've got this tall RAM in 2 of the 4 slots on my motherboard. One of the fans on my Coolermaster 212+ prevents me from fitting one in slot 1, due to their high profile Kid n' Play style heatsinks. Right now they're in slots 2 and 4.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QBUL1C/?tag=neogaf0e-20

If I wanted to put 2 more DIMMs in the remaining two slots, would there be any downsides to using these lower-profile DIMMs?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058J1Q7O/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I'll admit to being especially clueless about RAM, so this could be a really dumb question. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing more harm than good by mixing and matching RAM.

Just for reference, here are the two product names:

1) Corsair Vengeance Blu 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

2) Corsair 8 GB Vengeance Blue Low Profile 1600mhz PC3-12800 240-pin Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit 8 Dual Channel Kit CML8GX3M2A1600C9B

They both have timing: 9-9-9-24 (whatever that means).

As far as I can tell these are essentially the same thing, just one set has saucy heatsinks and the other doesn't. But please educate me in the ways of RAM, GAF.

 

[BoobPhysics101]

Hyperbole. Also, why so hostile to this guy? Supposed to be a thread of helping, not scaring into doing what you're saying.

Doesn't matter, TBH. Go with whatever draws the least watts.

Microcenter says hi. So does Newegg. Also, being blunt is not being hostile. You simply choose to interpret things that way.

For price comparisons I went to PriceWatch and quoted the lowest possible value for every component. As I've said I haven't bought any computers parts or components in years so I don't really know what's better or worse than the parts I'm looking at, other than a few generalized guidelines about model numbers and Ghz ratings.

The components I was told were in the system at least sounded better than the parts in the $500 budget machine detailed in the OP, so I figured I was coming out ahead.



I don't trust Craigslist sellers all that much, but I don't really trust myself to build a system either.

For the record, this is why I tend to dislike the official PC threads. Even if someone specifically states that they don't want to build a machine themselves, they will be brow-beaten mercilessly into trying to build their own. Then they'll tell you about some amazing $400 megasystem that they built but neglect to mention that they didn't pay for Windows and re-used a lot of old components like RAM/optical drive/etc or that half the deals they got aren't available anymore because NewEgg sold out or the they had to order 20 different components from 20 different places.

I'm not above buying all the components and having someone else put it together, but I assume that'd probably add an extra $100 to the package.

And it'd still come out better than a Craigslist PC.

Look, here's the thing: some of us are better are getting deals than others. I bought my GTX 570 for roughly $60, a deal which 99.9% of people simply won't get. I got my 2500k + Asus Z68 mobo for $190 @ Microcenter. I got a lot of great deals. I'm not blowing smoke up your ass, just saying that I think you can maximize your performance/$ ratio if you piece together a system yourself and seek out the best deals. There are a lot of sites online to do this, Slickdeals being one of the best. The 2500k was recently $160 at Microcenter retail, and $180 online there, for example. If you go to Microcenter, they may still have the mobo + 2500k combo deals. The only piece I re-used in my build was my SSD and optical drive.

If you want to get ripped off, fine, do it. Not my money. But I will always do my best to give you solid suggestions on getting the best for your money.

 

[Geezer]

I've been out of PC gaming for almost a decade. The last time I was into OCing, GPUs etc. was around the time of the 9500/9700 Pro release. Since then I've been using Dell desktops and various entry level laptops.
I notice that things have gotten a little crazy in terms of pricing for the graphics cards and it's a little intimidating. Back then there was nothing like fitting 2 cards to a machine or buying a card with 2 GPUs on it.

Is it possible to buy a card that will give 30fps+ in the latest games at 1920X1200 for £200? It would be paired with a midrange processor, in the £100 to £150 range, probably from Intel.

 

[Mr Nightman]

I ran into someone on Craigslist looking to sell their rig for $600. He says it was built for him about 12-18 months ago, and he's looking to get rid of it and travel. The only supposed downside is that the power button doesn't work (must be turned on manually at the PSU).

Here are the specs:

Intel® Core™ i7 860 Processor, stock 2.8ghz but it believe it's overclocked 3+ ghz.
8gb DDR3-1600 memory
Asetek liquid cooling
ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB graphics card.
ASUS P7P55D LE Motherboard with Intel P55 Chipset that supports crossfire.
500gb hard drive (I'm not a big space guy)
700w PSU/SLI ready
Windows 7 home premium installed (unless you wanted the drive formatted)
NZXT Tempest EVO case

Should I jump on this? How good of a deal is it?

If so, what's the best way to confirm that everything he says is in the computer....is actually in the computer?

I would say it seems like a decent deal, honestly dont see why its being looked at as a rip off. Its a quad core with 8gb ram and a 5770, enough for med to high gaming for a decent while. Really cant beat the fact it has a copy of windows included and the fact hard drives are soo expensive right now, so that is also an added value. Is It just the tower?

 

[Branson]

Microcenter says hi. So does Newegg. Also, being blunt is not being hostile. You simply choose to interpret things that way.




And it'd still come out better than a Craigslist PC.

Look, here's the thing: some of us are better are getting deals than others. I bought my GTX 570 for roughly $60, a deal which 99.9% of people simply won't get. I got my 2500k + Asus Z68 mobo for $190 @ Microcenter. I got a lot of great deals. I'm not blowing smoke up your ass, just saying that I think you can maximize your performance/$ ratio if you piece together a system yourself and seek out the best deals. There are a lot of sites online to do this, Slickdeals being one of the best. The 2500k was recently $160 at Microcenter retail, and $180 online there, for example. If you go to Microcenter, they may still have the mobo + 2500k combo deals. The only piece I re-used in my build was my SSD and optical drive.

If you want to get ripped off, fine, do it. Not my money. But I will always do my best to give you solid suggestions on getting the best for your money.

The fuck? I wish I had a microcenter closer than 4 hours away, those deals are crazy. Makes me feel ripped off for what Im thinking about buying a little bit up in the thread.

 

[Isaccard]

Okay Gaf. After some research, I've got what I think is a damn fine build. Tell me what you think.

i5-2500K
Asus P8Z68-V PRO
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1GB
Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case
Corsair 600W ATX12V Power Supply (Is this enough power?)

For HDD I was planning to reuse an old one, though im considering an SSD. Reusing an old optical drive as well.

Also wondering/looking for suggestions for a monitor.

 

[Juice]

I wouldn't feel so bad. I have a Microcenter in my town. It's AWFUL. Terrible customer service. Terrible return experience. Half the shit I've tried buying there has been obviously opened and resealed. They've flat-out denied legitimate returns in the past. And they creepily require your address every time you make an in-store purchase.

Plus every time I leave the building I feel like I need a goddamn shower. Dirty, grimy building. Almost every product has dust on it. I seriously purchased a 2500 for $189 over a 2500k for $169 JUST so I wouldn't have to shop at Microcenter.

I've had nothing but awful experiences at Newegg, but I still chose them over Microcenter.

 

[Juice]

Okay Gaf. After some research, I've got what I think is a damn fine build. Tell me what you think.

i5-2500K
Asus P8Z68-V PRO
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1GB
Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case
Corsair 600W ATX12V Power Supply (Is this enough power?)

For HDD I was planning to reuse an old one, though im considering an SSD. Reusing an old optical drive as well.

Also wondering/looking for suggestions for a monitor.

I've for a very similar build in flight right now but I did the 6950 instead.

 

[FoolsRun]

I don't trust Craigslist sellers all that much, but I don't really trust myself to build a system either.

I'm not above buying all the components and having someone else put it together, but I assume that'd probably add an extra $100 to the package.

You're in a difficult situation. If you're looking for a cheap PC for basic computing, buying a pre-built PC at a Staples or Best Buy for a few hundred dollars is your best bet. If you want a gaming system, you either build it yourself or pay a pretty steep markup to have someone build it for you. I built a system a couple of months ago, and for the hell of it went to Dell to see what I would have paid for a pre-built system. The closest I could get to what I built would have cost me nearly twice as much, and that was with a lower-end graphics card.

At a rough glance, the components you mention work out to around $700 if you were to try to buy them today. However, if you bought more modern components you could get better performance for the same price. You're also buying a PC put together by some random guy, you're not getting a warranty on any parts, and everything is used. That should knock down the price quite a bit.

For comparison, you can get a brand-new XPS 8300 Dell with better performance (assuming you pick the 6770 graphics card upgrade) for about $830.

I understand why some people just don't want the hassle of putting together a PC. If you do a little research and take your time, assembling your own system really isn't that difficult--assuming nothing goes wrong. But if you get a bad component, it can be very frustrating trying to troubleshoot exactly which part isn't working right. In my case, my first motherboard had a bad DIMM slot that caused the system to cycle on and off every few seconds. It took two nights of troubleshooting to identify the culprit. For some people it's just not worth the hassle.

 

[phinious]

Is this a good deal from Dell GAF?


Module Description Show Details
XPS 8300 XPS 8300
Operating System Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English
Processors Intel® Core™ i7-2600 processor(8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Memory 8GB DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz - 4 DIMMs
Keyboard Dell Consumer Multimedia Keyboard
Monitor Dell ST2420L 24"W Full HD Monitor, 24.0 VIS, VGA Cable supplied only
Video Card Single AMD Radeon™ HD 6870
Hard Drive 500GB - 7200RPM, SATA 3.0Gb/s, 16MB Cache
Mouse Dell Laser Mouse
Network Card Standard USB 2.0 + 10/100/1000 Ethernet
Modem No Dial Up Modem Option
TBU Adobe® Acrobat® Reader
Optical Drive Single Drive: 16X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Sound THX® TruStudio PC™
Speakers No speakers (Speakers are required to hear audio from your system)
Wireless Dell 1501 Wireless-N PCIe Card
Office Productivity Software (Pre-Installed) Microsoft® Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word & Excel w/ ads. No PowerPoint or Outlook
Security Software McAfee SecurityCenter, 15-Months
Hardware Support Services 2 Year Basic Support
Peace of Mind DataSafe 2.0 Online Backup 2GB for 1 year
Trusted ID Trusted ID,IDSafe, 12 Month Subscription, Digital Delivery
TOTAL: $1,066.49

 

[Juice]

Is this a good deal from Dell GAF?


Module Description Show Details
XPS 8300 XPS 8300
Operating System Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English
Processors Intel® Core™ i7-2600 processor(8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Memory 8GB DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz - 4 DIMMs
Keyboard Dell Consumer Multimedia Keyboard
Monitor Dell ST2420L 24"W Full HD Monitor, 24.0 VIS, VGA Cable supplied only
Video Card Single AMD Radeon™ HD 6870
Hard Drive 500GB - 7200RPM, SATA 3.0Gb/s, 16MB Cache
Mouse Dell Laser Mouse
Network Card Standard USB 2.0 + 10/100/1000 Ethernet
Modem No Dial Up Modem Option
TBU Adobe® Acrobat® Reader
Optical Drive Single Drive: 16X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Sound THX® TruStudio PC™
Speakers No speakers (Speakers are required to hear audio from your system)
Wireless Dell 1501 Wireless-N PCIe Card
Office Productivity Software (Pre-Installed) Microsoft® Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word & Excel w/ ads. No PowerPoint or Outlook
Security Software McAfee SecurityCenter, 15-Months
Hardware Support Services 2 Year Basic Support
Peace of Mind DataSafe 2.0 Online Backup 2GB for 1 year
Trusted ID Trusted ID,IDSafe, 12 Month Subscription, Digital Delivery
TOTAL: $1,066.49

I2700 isn't going to give you anything over the i2500 for gaming. Put that money toward a better gpu

 

[phinious]

I2700 isn't going to give you anything over the i2500 for gaming. Put that money toward a better gpu

They dont offer a lesser CPU for the deal. Also, thats the best GPU they bundle in the deal. No good? with a 24" monitor?

 

[gatti-man]

Is this a good deal from Dell GAF?


Module Description Show Details
XPS 8300 XPS 8300
Operating System Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English
Processors Intel® Core™ i7-2600 processor(8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Memory 8GB DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz - 4 DIMMs
Keyboard Dell Consumer Multimedia Keyboard
Monitor Dell ST2420L 24"W Full HD Monitor, 24.0 VIS, VGA Cable supplied only
Video Card Single AMD Radeon™ HD 6870
Hard Drive 500GB - 7200RPM, SATA 3.0Gb/s, 16MB Cache
Mouse Dell Laser Mouse
Network Card Standard USB 2.0 + 10/100/1000 Ethernet
Modem No Dial Up Modem Option
TBU Adobe® Acrobat® Reader
Optical Drive Single Drive: 16X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
Sound THX® TruStudio PC™
Speakers No speakers (Speakers are required to hear audio from your system)
Wireless Dell 1501 Wireless-N PCIe Card
Office Productivity Software (Pre-Installed) Microsoft® Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word & Excel w/ ads. No PowerPoint or Outlook
Security Software McAfee SecurityCenter, 15-Months
Hardware Support Services 2 Year Basic Support
Peace of Mind DataSafe 2.0 Online Backup 2GB for 1 year
Trusted ID Trusted ID,IDSafe, 12 Month Subscription, Digital Delivery
TOTAL: $1,066.49

One thing about dell is they allow transferable warranties. I would look on ebay and craigslist for used options first. You typically save 30-50%. My best score was a 3k alienware laptop 3 months old for 1440. Looked brabd new.

 

[Smokey]

Alright well...I haven't posted in a while but I exchanged my 500r case for a new one. Got the new one today put everything in it and...it still has the cold boot problem. Through this whole ordeal I got a new AX850 PSU to try and I still had the same issues. Now I have taken the old case back for another and it does the exact same fucking thing.

So now....I don't know what the hell to do. I'm pretty sure it's my motherboard? Everytime I have to flip the switch on the PSU to get my machine to come on it takes me to BIOS and says 'press f1 to recover BIOS'. Every. Single. Time. Once I do that I select 'Save and Continue' and it will boot into Windows. As long as I don't cut the machine off, it works fine.

I can't think of anything else besides this. I haven't gotten to properly use my PC since the beginning of December.

What are my other options ? :/

 

[knitoe]

I've got this tall RAM in 2 of the 4 slots on my motherboard. One of the fans on my Coolermaster 212+ prevents me from fitting one in slot 1, due to their high profile Kid n' Play style heatsinks. Right now they're in slots 2 and 4.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QBUL1C/?tag=neogaf0e-20

If I wanted to put 2 more DIMMs in the remaining two slots, would there be any downsides to using these lower-profile DIMMs?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058J1Q7O/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I'll admit to being especially clueless about RAM, so this could be a really dumb question. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing more harm than good by mixing and matching RAM.

Just for reference, here are the two product names:

1) Corsair Vengeance Blu 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

2) Corsair 8 GB Vengeance Blue Low Profile 1600mhz PC3-12800 240-pin Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit 8 Dual Channel Kit CML8GX3M2A1600C9B

They both have timing: 9-9-9-24 (whatever that means).

As far as I can tell these are essentially the same thing, just one set has saucy heatsinks and the other doesn't. But please educate me in the ways of RAM, GAF.

You are correct. They are the same except different heatsink size. I am running them without any issue.

 

[evil solrac v3.0]

For price comparisons I went to PriceWatch and quoted the lowest possible value for every component. As I've said I haven't bought any computers parts or components in years so I don't really know what's better or worse than the parts I'm looking at, other than a few generalized guidelines about model numbers and Ghz ratings.

The components I was told were in the system at least sounded better than the parts in the $500 budget machine detailed in the OP, so I figured I was coming out ahead.



I don't trust Craigslist sellers all that much, but I don't really trust myself to build a system either.

For the record, this is why I tend to dislike the official PC threads. Even if someone specifically states that they don't want to build a machine themselves, they will be brow-beaten mercilessly into trying to build their own. Then they'll tell you about some amazing $400 megasystem that they built but neglect to mention that they didn't pay for Windows and re-used a lot of old components like RAM/optical drive/etc or that half the deals they got aren't available anymore because NewEgg sold out or the they had to order 20 different components from 20 different places.

I'm not above buying all the components and having someone else put it together, but I assume that'd probably add an extra $100 to the package.

why not use a boutique like ibuypower or cyberpower? although I must say the PC being sold at craigslist is pretty good. you could buy and build a current better one, but if you don't want the hassle of building (and let's face it, sometimes it's a bit, A BIT of a pain) this is pretty good. in the future you can switch it out for a better video card and keep on gaming.

 

[mattiewheels]

Anybody ever deal with a hard drive that made a very loud and intermittent CLICK! sound? It's been doing it for months, all my crucial data is elsewhere, but this is my largest drive so I'm concerned it's going.

 

[mkenyon]

Alright well...I haven't posted in a while but I exchanged my 500r case for a new one. Got the new one today put everything in it and...it still has the cold boot problem. Through this whole ordeal I got a new AX850 PSU to try and I still had the same issues. Now I have taken the old case back for another and it does the exact same fucking thing.

So now....I don't know what the hell to do. I'm pretty sure it's my motherboard? Everytime I have to flip the switch on the PSU to get my machine to come on it takes me to BIOS and says 'press f1 to recover BIOS'. Every. Single. Time. Once I do that I select 'Save and Continue' and it will boot into Windows. As long as I don't cut the machine off, it works fine.

I can't think of anything else besides this. I haven't gotten to properly use my PC since the beginning of December.

What are my other options ? :/

You have a Gigabyte board, right?

Read through this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1034724/gigabyte-p67-z68-boot-cycling-problem

 

[JJBro One]

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.44 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($182.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($157.27 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($196.49 @ Mac Connection)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB Video Card ($499.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced ATX Full Tower Case ($134.88 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS70 OEM DVD/CD Writer ($23.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH12LS38 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($74.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VH238H 23.0" Monitor ($168.95 @ Mac Connection)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($35.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse ($59.93 @ B&H)
Total: $1884.73
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated 2011-12-28 23:24 EST-0500)
I'm building within the next half hour. My house is covered in carpet so I have no choice to build on anything but that. I'll be using a wooden table. I'll be using this video guide http://www.tested.com/how-to-build-a-future-proof-1500-pc/47-319/ and this animated guide http://www.pcityourself.com/index.php Any last minute suggestions? Do I need a certain screwdriver? Are there any pieces that may not have been included?

 

[The Teachinator]

Alright well...I haven't posted in a while but I exchanged my 500r case for a new one. Got the new one today put everything in it and...it still has the cold boot problem. Through this whole ordeal I got a new AX850 PSU to try and I still had the same issues. Now I have taken the old case back for another and it does the exact same fucking thing.

So now....I don't know what the hell to do. I'm pretty sure it's my motherboard? Everytime I have to flip the switch on the PSU to get my machine to come on it takes me to BIOS and says 'press f1 to recover BIOS'. Every. Single. Time. Once I do that I select 'Save and Continue' and it will boot into Windows. As long as I don't cut the machine off, it works fine.

I can't think of anything else besides this. I haven't gotten to properly use my PC since the beginning of December.

What are my other options ? :/

Good luck! Sounds like you spend more time down then you do up. I'm thankful I've had zero issues since my build in April...my case is rather unappealing HAF 922, but whatever it seems to work well! If you need a new motherboard check out asrock. it's what i've been using and I really like it.

 

[·feist·]

You have a Gigabyte board, right?

He has an Asus. They did have some boot issues of their own with certain older 1155 Asus models, but unless I'm mistaken, they've been resolved, including replacements in some cases, and settings changes in others.

Anybody ever deal with a hard drive that made a very loud and intermittent CLICK! sound? It's been doing it for months, all my crucial data is elsewhere, but this is my largest drive so I'm concerned it's going.

Run HD Tune, CrystalDisk, and the like to help diagnose. Some drives simply click at some point in their life. Still, back ups are always a good idea.

 

[Slavik81]

Finding a practical L desk is tough...this remains one of the only decent cheap options I've seen.

The ikea galant desk is pretty good.

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/S19806946/

 

[·feist·]

Everything you would want to know about Ivy Bridge and Ivy Bridge-E, straight from Intel - 128 complete slides of info (downloadable .PDF, and .JPG) *very nearly everything

- Includes Sandy Bridge vs Ivy Bridge cross-compatibility info, upcoming CPU line-up, and 7-series chipset specs

These are old, but I'll post them for anyone who still hasn't seen them:

Prices of Ivy Bridge desktop CPUs
http://www.cpu-world.com/news_2011/2011121902_Prices_of_Ivy_Bridge_desktop_CPUs.html

Intel to unveil 22nm Ivy Bridge processors on April 8, say Taiwan PC makers
http://www.digitimes.com/news/a20111228PD211.html

Intel plans to release a total of 25 models of its 22nm Ivy Bridge processors, including 17 CPUs for desktops and eight for notebooks and ultrabooks on or around April 8, 2012, according to PC makers in Taiwan.

Desktop CPUs to be unveiled include quad-core Core i7-3770K, 3770, 3770S, 3770T, and Core i5-3570, 3550 and 3450, with prices ranging from US$184-332. Additionally, the Core i5-3470T will be available in May priced at US$184.​

Desktop chips to be released in April will include Z77 (priced at US$48), H77 (US$43), Z75 (US$40) and B75 (US$37), with Q77 (US$44) and Q75 (US$40) coming on May 13, the sources indicated.

Notebook CPUs Core i7-3920Qm, 3820QM and 3720QM will be released in April priced at US$1,096, US$568 and US$378, respectively. Other models including Core i5-3520M, 3360M, 3320M and ultrabook CPUs Core i7-3667U and Core i5-3427U will be unveiled later.​

Meanwhile, Intel will also release notebook chips HM77, UM77, HM76 and HM75 priced at US$48, US$48, US$43 and US$40, respectively in April before launching QS77 (US$53) and QM77 (US$48) in May, revealed the sources.

Intel Z77 Motherboard Lineup for Ivy Bridge Processors surfaces
http://www.guru3d.com/news/intel-z77-motherboard-lineup-for-ivy-bridge-processors-surfaces/

Together with the launch of its first wave Ivy Bridge processors, Intel will release new LGA 1155 motherboards based on the Z77 PCH (platform controller hub) that will offer native support for USB 3.0.

It now seems that 11 LGA 1155 models will be introduced in the first half of 2012, two of them belonging to the company's extreme performance series as softpedia reports:

These are the DZ77RE and DZ77GA and both feature “Max-OC” support (whatever that might mean), are two-way SLI and CrossFireX compatible and use the standard ATX form factor.

The DZ77RE however will also get support for the Thunderbolt interconnect, making it one of the first motherboards to integrated this technology.

Intel's remaining 2012 LGA 1155 solutions in the Media and Executive series are less exciting than the two top models, but one has to appreciate the fact that Intel plans to release no less than nine such boards using various form factors such as ATX, micro-ATX, mini-ITX as well as thin mITX.

Furthermore, most of these will be built around the advanced Z77 chipset, only two models being designed to use the lower-end Z75 PCH.

As many of you know, the Z77 is Intel's most advanced 7-series platform controller hub and it features native support for quad USB 3.0 ports, integrated graphics support, Intel's Smart Response technology, as well as six SATA ports (two of these of the 6Gbps variety).

The most distinctive feature of the chipset when compared with the rest of Intel's Ivy Bridge PCHs is its capability to split the 16 PCI Express Gen 3 lanes available from the CPU into a pair of x8 links or into a single x8 link and dual PCI Express x4 slots.

The first 22nm Tri-gate Ivy Bridge processors are expected to arrive in March or April of 2012, and will replace the current Sandy Bridge chips launched at the start of this year.

 

[Slavik81]

Is the Xonar DG really needed if I bought ASUS P8Z68 PRO/GEN3 ? Will I notice any difference in sound quality?

I always use the optical out with my Z5500 (what I used with my Abit ip35 Pro) or a USB gaming headset.

I had to look up what Xonar was. Then I came across this amazing graph on their website.



It appears that their signal has tachyonic noise, causing their measurement device to get multiple readings for the same time.

 

[Smokey]

You have a Gigabyte board, right?

Read through this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1034724/gigabyte-p67-z68-boot-cycling-problem

No, I have an Asus P8P67 pro

Good luck! Sounds like you spend more time down then you do up. I'm thankful I've had zero issues since my build in April...my case is rather unappealing HAF 922, but whatever it seems to work well! If you need a new motherboard check out asrock. it's what i've been using and I really like it.

I had my machine since April and had zero problems with it until I decided to change cases. Now this keeps happening. It can't be the case, I've went through two of them. Can't be the PSU, I've went through 2 of them. Only other common item here is the motherboard. Guess I'll have to call Asus up tomorrow to see what is going on.

 

[jwhit28]

Looking at those Ivy Bridge CPU's...

They could really put a hurting on AMD with a K version of Core i3. I still see people choosing Phenom II's extra cores over Core i3's efficiency and performance per core, but throw overclocking into it and there is no reason to look back.

 

[mkenyon]

No, I have an Asus P8P67 pro




I had my machine since April and had zero problems with it until I decided to change cases. Now this keeps happening. It can't be the case, I've went through two of them. Can't be the PSU, I've went through 2 of them. Only other common item here is the motherboard. Guess I'll have to call Asus up tomorrow to see what is going on.

You could have shorted something during the transition. Wearing wool socks and a wool sweater while building by chance?

 

[Hazaro]

Looking at those Ivy Bridge CPU's...

They could really put a hurting on AMD with a K version of Core i3. I still see people choosing Phenom II's extra cores over Core i3's efficiency and performance per core, but throw overclocking into it and there is no reason to look back.

Yup, very frustrating for me.

 

[Smokey]

You could have shorted something during the transition. Wearing wool socks and a wool sweater while building by chance?

no

i just upgraded my bios to the latest version...maybe that will help. what keeps stumping me is if it was a short i don't understand how it can stay on for 7 days straight as it did last week once it was booted? either way looks like i'm gonna have to RMA this fuuuuuuuuuuuu. Once it gets past 2-3 minutes of being off it won't turn on again via power button.

 

[web01]

Just upgraded my graphics card and I am running it through HDMI to my television.
Problem is the colours are off. Blacks and white both seem too intense and colours not quite right. Are there any good programs that let you calibrate your display?
I have screwed around with the OS, NVIDIA control panel and TV screen settings and I am struggling to get it good.

 

[MrBelmontvedere]

You could have shorted something during the transition. Wearing wool socks and a wool sweater while building by chance?

or anything for that matter. ESD damage is much more likely during the (currently where I am) extremely cold winter months.

edit:

no

i just upgraded my bios to the latest version...maybe that will help. what keeps stumping me is if it was a short i don't understand how it can stay on for 7 days straight as it did last week once it was booted? either way looks like i'm gonna have to RMA this fuuuuuuuuuuuu. Once it gets past 2-3 minutes of being off it won't turn on again via power button.

inexplicable and widely varying malfunctions are a hallmark of ESD damage. sorry bud :/

 

[asdad123]

So Im looking to build or buy a PC that can last me a couple years of gaming.

I can get this from the Dell Outlet for $580 before taxes (Maybe even less if a coupon comes out)
Dell Studio XPS 8300
I7 2600
500gb HDD
8gb RAM
460W power supply

What would be the best graphics card I would be able to put in there? And does anyone know if I could upgrade its power supply if I want to put in a better card?

Or is it not worth it buying the XPS and building one myself? I would love to keep it below $750, and Im not sure if I could build a PC with a i7 2600 for that little compared to the dell with a buying a graphics card.

 

[Juice]

Anybody ever deal with a hard drive that made a very loud and intermittent CLICK! sound? It's been doing it for months, all my crucial data is elsewhere, but this is my largest drive so I'm concerned it's going.

I've never had an HDD start clicking that didn't die within days. Sorry

 

[LiquidMetal14]

Intel Z77 Motherboard Lineup for Ivy Bridge Processors surfaces
http://www.guru3d.com/news/intel-z77-motherboard-lineup-for-ivy-bridge-processors-surfaces/

So I'm clear, these are not compastible with current 1155 boards? Or would there be a possible bios update?

no

i just upgraded my bios to the latest version...maybe that will help. what keeps stumping me is if it was a short i don't understand how it can stay on for 7 days straight as it did last week once it was booted? either way looks like i'm gonna have to RMA this fuuuuuuuuuuuu. Once it gets past 2-3 minutes of being off it won't turn on again via power button.

I've had 2 issues that are separate from the MB that (the following) fix helped my problems. I may be the only on here with the TX67B+ BIOSTAR MB but the manual clearly states to me that taking the battery out while power is unplugged will reset settings. I actually manually did that once before after trying some things. Not sure if you already tried that but skimming through your posts. I didn't see that. Not that it will for your MB but I figure I would at least throw the idea out there.

 

[specialguy]

Looking at those Ivy Bridge CPU's...

They could really put a hurting on AMD with a K version of Core i3. I still see people choosing Phenom II's extra cores over Core i3's efficiency and performance per core, but throw overclocking into it and there is no reason to look back.

They actually look quite uninspiring too me, and based on anand's review. No major performance jump, and pricing staying comparable to Sandy Bridge for the same performance. Also according to Anand right now Ivy Bridge mobos are $200+?

AMD's situation certainly didn't get (all that much) worse with Ivy Bridge, for the most part. Now to see if they can deliver any of those supposed constant bulldozer architecture performance improvements they promised over the coming months.

It still boggles my mind how much a failure bulldozer is, because it seems like AMD would have been much better off just delivering 32nm, more core, higher clocked, phenom X4 cores (whatever their codename is). For example, an Phenom II X8@3.8 ghz on 32nm. The simplest possible thing they could have done would have been much better, and saved them who knows how much R&D $ on an utter failure called bulldozer.

 

[brotkasten]

So I'm clear, these are not compastible with current 1155 boards? Or would there be a possible bios update?

I was told that Ivy Bridge CPUs will come out for S1155 and will be compatible with the current chipsets, but if you want new features like native USB 3.0, you'll need a new board with the Z77 chipset.

 

[Isaccard]

What say you GAF on Razer products? I've read quite a few horror stories on Newegg, especially on their customer support. Though I can't find any other mouse and keyboard combo's I really like.

Also still looking for input on the setup I have below.

Okay Gaf. After some research, I've got what I think is a damn fine build. Tell me what you think.

i5-2500K
Asus P8Z68-V PRO
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1GB
Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case
Corsair 600W ATX12V Power Supply (Is this enough power?)

For HDD I was planning to reuse an old one, though im considering an SSD. Reusing an old optical drive as well.

Also wondering/looking for suggestions for a monitor.

 

[Krauser Kat]

Intels r&d probably is not sitting on its hands and or throwing everything they got at mobile processing. When/if amd even steps up to the plate i bet within a 3-6 month span they can have another round of great processors. Do the new ivy bridge overclock more?

 

[chaosblade]

What say you GAF on Razer products? I've read quite a few horror stories on Newegg, especially on their customer support. Though I can't find any other mouse and keyboard combo's I really like.

Also still looking for input on the setup I have below.

Consensus I've seen on Razer is that they are good while they work, but durability seems like an issue. Some people have good luck and the product works great for years, others have problems within a year.

And I probably wouldn't recommend that PSU, I assume it's the Builder series one since that's the only 600W Corsair I know of. Not as good as their more expensive PSUs.

This one is good but doesn't have a MIR. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151096

 

[·feist·]

So I'm clear, these are not compastible with current 1155 boards? Or would there be a possible bios update?

There will be somewhat limited compatibility. Some boards already have the BIOS updates needed available.

The first "Everything you would want to know about Ivy Bridge" link in that post has the full break down of SB to IB CPU, and chipset interoperability.

Looking at those Ivy Bridge CPU's...

They could really put a hurting on AMD with a K version of Core i3. I still see people choosing Phenom II's extra cores over Core i3's efficiency and performance per core, but throw overclocking into it and there is no reason to look back.

Notice they're no longer releasing proper OC parts below ~$215. That's to go along with purposely limited motherboards. Unless Intel change their current monetizing strategy, the days of LGA 775, or options like LGA 1156 i3 5xx are over.

Please give us extra money if you'd like to OC beyond a miserly ~2-500MHz, or have a board which isn't locked down.

What say you GAF on Razer products? I've read quite a few horror stories on Newegg, especially on their customer support. Though I can't find any other mouse and keyboard combo's I really like.

Also still looking for input on the setup I have below.

Okay Gaf. After some research, I've got what I think is a damn fine build. Tell me what you think.

i5-2500K
Asus P8Z68-V PRO
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1GB
Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case
Corsair 600W ATX12V Power Supply (Is this enough power?)

For HDD I was planning to reuse an old one, though im considering an SSD. Reusing an old optical drive as well.

Also wondering/looking for suggestions for a monitor.

Build looks fine. PSU is more than enough, and there was monitor discussion over the last 2-3 pages with different recommendations.

Between mice and keyboards, look into Steel Series, Filco, HHKB, Ducky, Logitech, DAS and others.